Great video! Thanks, was able to fix my Amana dryer for less than $19 following your video. In my case it was the fuse, the guy at the appliance parts store took one look, and reached under that counter and pulled one out. He said he sells around 100 of those a month. Took the ducting off, cleaned out the accumulated lint in the duct, and around the fan, checked everything over, re-assembled and back in business.
You just saved me a $100 call-out fee! I live deep in the woods and service repairmen typically charge a huge fee just to show up at my home. By watching your video I was able to diagnose the problem with my dryer and have ordered the necessary parts. Looking forward to having a working dryer again! Thank you!!!!
Sir I have never commented on TH-cam, however this is the best/ most informative/ no fat or filler video that I have seen in years. Thank you for making this whole task take 20 min tops. You are the man!
Thanks! The crazy thing is that tech-ing these style dryers once you know the basics is like... a 5-minute job, tops, with a drill gun (vs a screwdriver) and a multimeter. Very simple and easy IF you know what you're doing. If you don't know what you're doing, you can throw a lot of money into fixing the wrong thing.
Guys like this are a lifesaver! His videos and some comments walk me through the whole process of replacing my dryers heating elements and some other small parts. The repairs cost me less than $40, which beats the price of a new dryer!
Thanks to this video I fixed my dryer by myself with no prior experience with dryer repair. Thank you so much. I found a used replacement part from a local recycler so my dryer is up and running for $25 the same day!
my recommendation is to buy a small parts kit (not from whirlpool because they charge $200) for $20 and just to replace them all instead of wasting time diagnosing. Very good advice for someone that doesn't want to go buy a continuity meter.
great video on how to diagnose all for the parts. After a few minutes, I was able to determine which parts I needed, ordered my parts on Amazon on Friday and they arrived on Saturday. Total cost was $10! Thank you for the help.
Great video. I was able to use your tips to locate the damaged parts and less than $20.00 later I have a working dryer. Since the parts were so reasonable I ended up ordering a kit and replaced the fuses and thermometer.
It was my timer. I took it a part, looked at it, and put it back together and thought I check it again because it didn’t work before. IT WORKED, SO PUT IT TOGETHER AND PUT IT BACK IN PLACE AND IT STILL WORKS!!! Thanks for your video!!
You would really think that in a $600 appliance mostly consisting of sheet metal and cheap plastic rollers they could have provided a diagnostic feature like they did in the exact same series of washers. Especially given the cheapness of the plastic drum rollers and other parts that are guaranteed to fail. I suppose that would cut into their profit margin too much though. That being said, thank you for the detailed explanation. It appears very helpful.
gr8 video I fixed a whirlpool dryer for my father, in my case is was the thermal fuse $1 part I was replacing his dryer with one I was given that didn't' work. His dryer needed a part but since it was 38 years old the part cost more then the unit in working condition. the person I got the dryer from was moving and decided to just give it away. The Thermos fuse blew because apparently their try vent and lint trap was all clogged , I cleaned that out on the unit.
Dude, I have that exact dryer and it wasn't heating. Your instructions were spot on. Found the bad part but, kit was only 25 bucks on Amazon just like you pointed out to another poster so, I went ahead and replaced all of it anyway. Working perfectly! Thanks man!
Just bought a new dryer to replace my old one that had the same issue... no heat! Surprise, my new dryer has this same problem!!! I'm on a business trip, but will be ordering one of your kits from your site to replace all of the sensors (you have some fantastic pricing btw). So, thank you! ;-)
Thank you so much for this video. It did diagnose my issues 3 days ago. I was able to order my Heating Element and replaced it today. The dryer is working well now. Thank you
Awesome video. None of the extra un-needed rambling. Straight to the point and very helpful. I was familiar with how to test but I didn't know where in the dryer I'd have to look. You helped me fix my neighbor's dryer for under 30 bucks. Thank you. 👍
Awesome! Usually the timer fix is a stopgap, but I've had it work for 9+ months according to customers. I'd really like to do a total rebuild on the contact pads, but I haven't found a good supply yet.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I know right? If you could find a supply of those contacts it you’d be 1/2 way there. Have you ever tried ripping them out from an old unit? Do they? Maybe heat gun?
So thankful for this. My dryer was the exact dryer used in the video and I was able to fix my dryer all on my own with this video’s help!!! Thank you so much!!!
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts? Please advise.
Another way to test the cycling thermostat and element thermostat is to remove them and shake then next to your ear. If it sounds like a high pitch rattle, it is usually good. If it has a dull rattle sound it probably has a burnt contact inside. It helps to have a good thermostat to rattle to hear what it should sound like.
This is my exact dryer thats running but not heating. I have a feeling its the thermal fuse! Thanks for the video I am going to use it later to try to figure it out
At 5:10 the kind gentleman demonstrates how to test the thermostat for continuity, with his hands blocking 100% of wherever he might be placing the test leads. I’m kind of amazed at all the positive reviews.
Thank you for the video!! One question, what is it likely to be, if the dryer heats up most of the time. Sometimes it won't heat up at all. It's like it has a mind of its own. Any input would be greatly appreciated
Great job Ben! Found a burned out heating coil and the 4” exhaust had a HUGElargemous Lint Bunny stuffed into it. Tells me that the thermal high-limit switch was malfunctioning as well - although it ohmed out just fine. The whole 9 yards with all heating related components was all of $25 on Amazon.
A couple comments. First, I really was helped by this video. I was able to easily diagnose my dryer’s problem. Video was clear and actually pointed the right way. Clear explanations. Second, your clarifying which brands/models you are showing us (dryers with this configuration of lint filter) I thought of as just ‘nice’ until I watched someone else’s video for how to actually replace the heater element. That other video, even though it said it applied to what I had, was a totally different dryer. Your simple clarification is much more appreciated now. And third, perhaps a closer, different angle view of the thermostat and heater connections would be nice so I could be more certain I was checking the correct terminals.
I didn't have the camera setup to do it back then. I was using a static camera on a pole that only went up and down. I've since upgraded to a boom mic holder that allows me to position the camera inside whatever I'm filming - I agree with you, and it was a constant fight finding good angles that I could work with but also film with too (because honestly, doing the work and filming it are painfully difficult to do both). But I appreciate the comment and plan to follow up with another lint-top dryer from better angles. I did this with some washers and it went over well, so its definitely on the "To do list"!
Thank you!!!! This was incredibly helpful! Wish I would have found your video HOURS ago when I first started trying to find why my dryer isn't heating. Would have saved me so much time. Appreciate your help!
Glad it helped! My channel is going to get monetized shortly which may help improve the search results for these kinds of answers. Hope you get yours up and running soon!
Hey I’m having this problem with my dryer it’s not heating just started yesterday and my nob won’t move when I start it. Need help on the nob part please I can’t find your video. On how to fix the nob.
Thank you for the information, i diagnosed and ordered the part i needed. Hopefully tomorrow i can have it functional. Update Part came and fixed my issue. Thank you for the information I greatly appreciate it
I replaced all the parts with the kit from Amazon. I noticed my heating element was burnt out, after replacing all 5 pieces my deyer is still cutting off after a few minutes and smells as if something is burning. Do you have any idea why?
Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this? Also, it has 120 volts through both legs.
Thank you for this video. My Amana's thermostat failed and took the hi limit cutoff with it. Looking on Amana's parts site the thermostat has been replaced with a higher limit one, so I'm assuming it's a common problem with the particular model I have. 70$ for them both. Cheaper than calling someone out for sure!
Thanks for the video really cool. I recommend maybe having a second camera with what your hands are doing cuz I couldn't see all that little spots you are connecting the multimeter to. Always thanks so much man
Hi! I have a question. When you are testing the timer on the dryer do you start the machine or not? Also when you diagnose the all the elements is the dryer plug on electricity? Cause in the beginning of the video the machine wasn't plugged in. Thank you.
Great, instructional video. I would like it better if you changed the camera angle and got it closer when you were testing the onboard components so I could see where you placed the probes.
My drier stop heating,it blows room temperature air,I replaced the heating element and the cycling thermostat and still no hot air,any suggestions? It's an amana similar to the one in this video,the other 2 thermostat looking part's beep when doing continuity test.
You are absolutely amazing! I wish there were more people like you out there on TH-cam doing these (high) quality instructional videos! You are the best!
TY so much for a great video!. I was able to solve my dryer problem by checking all the components in your video and found them to be working fine. My problem actually was the thermal fuse that went due to a clogged filter screen, creating an overheating situation and thus blowing the thermal fuse. I have told my tenant to clean the screen after each use going forward. Thanks Again.
Thank you for the excellent video. I have the same model, and I tested everything you suggested in the video other than the loose wires thing at the end ( I did not understand that part well). Everything looks fine, and the values are good, as you suggested. My drier still won’t dry. What could be the problem? I appreciate your help! Also, I had only one spade on the heating element. For whatever reason, there is a place, but I don't see the wire also. Also, the terminal showed continuity. It is the one towards the machine side. My drier was working fine, but it stopped working when I moved to a different house.
A few people haven't been able to find the related video regarding refurbishing the timer on these style dryers, so here's the link: th-cam.com/video/Bgf21D0g-vM/w-d-xo.html Also, link to purchase the element & sensors: bit.ly/3HYJI3r
First off, thank you very much for the super-informative video. My dryer wasn't heating up. I filled your step-by-step trouble-shooting, and sure enough, it was the "A" contact. So I cleaned it, put it back together, and it worked. Extremely helpful! I have another question though. Now, I'm having a different problem (that also seems timer related). Now it doesn't stop when it gets to the end of the cycle. It just keeps drying. Any tips for which contacts control that? Thanks in advance
I took it apart again, and I think the problem was that the top cam was just slightly out of position. Adjusted it, and everything seems to be in working order now. Put it back together, tried running it a few seconds prior to each of the "off" positions, turned the dial to off, and it stopped. I guess the next step is to watch it heft time we use it, just to see if the dial turns on its own when it's supposed to. Either way, thanks for the awesome video. Got a new subscriber here.
@@rprcharron I haven't had THAT specific issue before, but I've had a few instances where the cams being re-installed binded, causing it not to move at all, or the stem was real difficult to move... Hadn't had the opposite happen with it consistently running. Glad you were able to figure it out, and I'll have to add it to my memory of "Weird things that happen when refurbing a timer" ha ha.
I see what looks like a short red jumper wire hooked to the heating element thermostat. I don't have this wire, but only the red that connects to the top of the thermostat, the red that goes to the element terminal closest to you, and the orange that goes to the other, smaller thermostat terminal underneath that also connects to the other, larger element terminal, which is unused. Maybe your model is slightly different than mine. The thermostat part# is 3977767. Also, when replacing the cycling thermostat, the purple wires are interchangeable. But which terminal is which for the red and red/white wires? My old part has an "X" engraved by one of the terminals and my new one, a pair of small circles.
Whats up bro so I tried the A B C part on timer wich is the first 3 prongs red blue blk correct? I get continuity on blue and blk but none on red that mean timer is bad???
@@blakehotard8240 my timer was bad but I did fix it..easy fix all I did was bend the end of the prongs to touch again works as good as new again...the link in the comments helped me go check it out 👍
Question i have a whirlpool dryer simular to this one ive cleaned the lint trap and inside caseing ,ive put in a new heat element and replaced all of the fuses tested the timer and im still getting cold air what am i doing wrong ???
Thanks for the video. One note: You show the "thermal fuse" on your diagram @ 4:13, but you failed to test it. This fuse is actually one of the most common things to go and a relatively inexpensive and simple fix.
My whirlpool dryer has a dedicated temperature knob. I tested all of the parts shown in the video and everything is working correctly. Is there a way to test the temperature knob?
What would be helpful is if you talked about Manual multiplmeters for those that have never used one. I’m sitting her with my dryer apart and have a basic manual multimeter and I’m lost at what it needs to be set on
I have a amana dryer and the heating element burned out. I have a new one but there seems to be a wire that's missing and I can't install it until I get a diagram for the way it supposed to be wired. Can you send me a picture of this?
Very efficient video production - THANKS! I went through all your component tests on my AMANA NED4655EW1. All tested good. No corrosion or loose connections observed. The dryer turns ON on every cycle normally. It cycles through and dries each load (all cycle options). The heat shuts off at the end of cycle, BUT.... the dryer continues to run forever. Is there something in the TIMER /Controller that is not allowing the TIMER to completely cycle to "OFF" ? Thanks for any advice.
Hi Ben, I have a Whirlpool mod WED4815EW1. No heat and timer did not advance. I replaced timer and that was not the solution. I checked the power. 120…120…240. I replaced all of the parts and still no heat. What else might it be? Thanks for the great video! Randy
My whirlpool wed5600sq0 dryer has no heat, and never appeared to have low heat. All of my tests come within spec. Hi volt block- 119,119, 238v Stat- continuity Element- continuity, 9ohm, no contact on housing. Cycling stat- red, continuity, purple, 7.19 ohm High limit cutoff- continuity Timer- all connections as depicted in the diagram. Thermal fuse continuity. Cycled the breaker... Prayed, slept on it. Still no heat. Can you help me diagnose this?
Fantastic breakdown sir! Taking it step by step I followed along and was able to diagnose my time and the thermostat need replacing. Thanks for taking the time! Saves us mechanically inclined folks hundreds.
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Hey if timer isn’t mechanically clicking down anymore like it just stays on does that mean it is faulty also getting no heat
Hi brother, thank you for this video. I followed all the steps and the only thing that strayed away from a perfect test of all working elements was during the power check. I got 120 from the positive and negative terminal when attached to Neutral but nothing from positive negative with leads attached to eachother and no Neutral. I did just have my Main panel upgraded for a solar installation. is it possible this oddity is from a miss on the main pannel upgrade? Do you have any advice on this?
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts? Please advise how you fix your issue.
Very helpful. Still not heating. Uhhg. On this model, I heard the c switch or something on the motor could be bad if all other components test good including the timer.
Your video is great but I have some questions. I checked the purple wires and I got nothing from this. You said this is the cycling thermostat. Do you have any videos on how to replace this?
I have this exact model Amana. I checked everything and got continuity to all of them including abc of timer.. all except for the low temp (purple wires) has no continuity and cant get an ohm reading on them either. But red wires for hi temp does. And I have no heat on hi or low. Would that mean thermostat is bad? Thanks!
My dryer is only not working on the low heat setting. It DOES work on the high heat setting. I DID need to clean out the vent tube and have done that. Does it sound like I only need the low heat fuse? (If I can skip all the other steps it would save me a ton of time!)
I tried using these tips to fix my dryer but after replacing every part and checking the timer, heat seems to only happen when i have my timer on high 40min and nothing else works. Any suggestions?
Hello there. I'm just a gal that has a lint problem. I don't know if you have heard of the lint being on the outer sliding lint collector and the inside just a bit. I have rearranged the dryer hose checked the wall flow is working because I can go outside and it's expelling heat. So it's really a lint thing. It's taking 2 hours to dry a load. Thank you.
Run water over lint filter in a washroom. See if it pools up. If it does, dryer sheet stuff has gotten on the filter itself and needs cleaned w/ a good bit of hot water. You can't see it, but its there. Otherwise, you may want to dis-assemble the dryer a little, especially blower housing, and clean it out. If your dryer is a lot like this, if you have a real flexible tube for a vaccum (like a lint lizard) you can use it to suck out junk from the place where lint filter goes which is the blower housing. Lack of drying comes from either lack of heat (from element) or lack of GOOD airflow. If you open door when its running and it feels like a super-humid jungle, then its going to most likely be airflow restriction somewhere.
On one end I'm glad its the timer, but on the other, that one tends to be the most expensive to fix. I do have a video on repairing that style timer on my channel - if you want to go the route of sanding the contacts down and fixing it.
Hey I have this same dryer. It was working then all of a sudden I heard a noise and saw a spark then it cut off. When I unplugged it and looked at the back one of the screws were black and a little loose. Does that mean I'll need to replace my terminal block and all the wires? If so where would I start to even purchase them
I dropped glove down lint filter I figured it would drop down somewhere I turned it on and it made sound now will not work I took back off and I didn't know where to go to look now do u have help video for something like this
Hello again- I replace the two thingie in the heating coil sides and it now heats up!!! Woohoo!! Except now it seems too hot… how you I make sure it’s not running too hot and what could that mean?
As long as you buy the right ones you should be OK. The thermostat will cut heat off to make sure its not too hot. I would also make sure vents are clean and free of dirt.
@@bensappliancesandjunk thank you, the vets are clear. And he dryer isn’t heating again. 😢 I think I’ll have to call someone- or replace it. Thank you, though.
I followed your video step by step, and all the components were just fine, and I still have problems with the automatic low heat selection, I checked the 3 on the left for continuity as you pointed in your video and it is fine too... I am wondering if I have to check on the other 3 connectors on the right placing the selector in the automatic low where you didn't check on the video...?
Ben help me out, I did everything you did and came down to one part. Replaced and didn’t fix the issue. Ordered the kit with all the parts, swapped them all and still no heat. I’m stumped!
My Amana ned5100tql dryer's heating element only has one spade/wire. I checked the wires and I do not see on that has came off or broke off. I tried to check the ohms for the thermal fuse, near the vent, and I found it would sometimes give 40ish but most of the time I got 0.00 on my multimeter
Some heating elements have a spade thats kind-of hardwired on the thermostat that goes from thermostat to element. You should be able to remove it, revealing the second spade.
I have the same Amana dryer you using to show. My question is: the highest heat automatic dry not working well, is there a sensor inside the dryer to sense when clothes getting dry? Can the sensor be clean? Emery
i have seen at least 20 of "fix your dryer" videos but this one hands down is the best and most complete step by step on how to really fix your dryer.
Great video! Thanks, was able to fix my Amana dryer for less than $19 following your video. In my case it was the fuse, the guy at the appliance parts store took one look, and reached under that counter and pulled one out. He said he sells around 100 of those a month. Took the ducting off, cleaned out the accumulated lint in the duct, and around the fan, checked everything over, re-assembled and back in business.
You just saved me a $100 call-out fee! I live deep in the woods and service repairmen typically charge a huge fee just to show up at my home. By watching your video I was able to diagnose the problem with my dryer and have ordered the necessary parts. Looking forward to having a working dryer again! Thank you!!!!
Sir I have never commented on TH-cam, however this is the best/ most informative/ no fat or filler video that I have seen in years. Thank you for making this whole task take 20 min tops. You are the man!
Thanks! The crazy thing is that tech-ing these style dryers once you know the basics is like... a 5-minute job, tops, with a drill gun (vs a screwdriver) and a multimeter. Very simple and easy IF you know what you're doing. If you don't know what you're doing, you can throw a lot of money into fixing the wrong thing.
I fixed my dryer after watching y0ur video. Thermal fuse was defective. Bought a new one on ebay for $6.50 delivered. Dryer works great again.
Guys like this are a lifesaver! His videos and some comments walk me through the whole process of replacing my dryers heating elements and some other small parts. The repairs cost me less than $40, which beats the price of a new dryer!
Thanks to this video I fixed my dryer by myself with no prior experience with dryer repair. Thank you so much. I found a used replacement part from a local recycler so my dryer is up and running for $25 the same day!
Thanks for watching!
my recommendation is to buy a small parts kit (not from whirlpool because they charge $200) for $20 and just to replace them all instead of wasting time diagnosing. Very good advice for someone that doesn't want to go buy a continuity meter.
Please, Where can I find this kit? Thx
@@rosethecopycat Amazon. They have different part numbers for the same product btw because every brand is doing their own fake part number
Would you happen to have the link to this kit? I just received the part I thought was bad and I still have no heat 😢
Does it really cost $20? And is there really a kit?
@@joaquinsuarez6090 amazon or ebay
great video on how to diagnose all for the parts. After a few minutes, I was able to determine which parts I needed, ordered my parts on Amazon on Friday and they arrived on Saturday. Total cost was $10! Thank you for the help.
Thanks to this video I just repaired my old Amana dryer by replacing the cycling thermostat and saved several hundred dollars!
Great video. I was able to use your tips to locate the damaged parts and less than $20.00 later I have a working dryer. Since the parts were so reasonable I ended up ordering a kit and replaced the fuses and thermometer.
It was my timer. I took it a part, looked at it, and put it back together and thought I check it again because it didn’t work before. IT WORKED, SO PUT IT TOGETHER AND PUT IT BACK IN PLACE AND IT STILL WORKS!!!
Thanks for your video!!
Woo hoo! Glad to hear its fixed now!
You would really think that in a $600 appliance mostly consisting of sheet metal and cheap plastic rollers they could have provided a diagnostic feature like they did in the exact same series of washers. Especially given the cheapness of the plastic drum rollers and other parts that are guaranteed to fail. I suppose that would cut into their profit margin too much though. That being said, thank you for the detailed explanation. It appears very helpful.
Dude, your video helped me resolve a long standing problem. I am in your debt. Gracias!
Glad it helped
gr8 video I fixed a whirlpool dryer for my father, in my case is was the thermal fuse $1 part
I was replacing his dryer with one I was given that didn't' work. His dryer needed a part but since it was 38 years old the part cost more then the unit in working condition.
the person I got the dryer from was moving and decided to just give it away. The Thermos fuse blew because apparently their try vent and lint trap was all clogged , I cleaned that out on the unit.
Thank you Ben! We have an Amana dryer that my girlfriend was ready to take a loan to replace. Your video helped us diagnose that it was a cheap fix!
Dude, I have that exact dryer and it wasn't heating. Your instructions were spot on. Found the bad part but, kit was only 25 bucks on Amazon just like you pointed out to another poster so, I went ahead and replaced all of it anyway. Working perfectly! Thanks man!
What was your issue? I’m having the same problem
my dryer is only getting a little warm, found the cycling tstat purple wires have 1.7k - ordered new one, this is amazing information, thank you!
Just bought a new dryer to replace my old one that had the same issue... no heat!
Surprise, my new dryer has this same problem!!!
I'm on a business trip, but will be ordering one of your kits from your site to replace all of the sensors (you have some fantastic pricing btw).
So, thank you! ;-)
Just received the parts I ordered from you and got the dryer running like new. This video was a game changer. Thank you so much.
Thank you so much for this video. It did diagnose my issues 3 days ago. I was able to order my Heating Element and replaced it today. The dryer is working well now. Thank you
Well, like your name says "To God be all the glory " have a blessed day
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you. Have a blessed day as well.
@@togodbealltheglory362 where did you order it from?
Awesome video. None of the extra un-needed rambling. Straight to the point and very helpful. I was familiar with how to test but I didn't know where in the dryer I'd have to look. You helped me fix my neighbor's dryer for under 30 bucks. Thank you. 👍
Excellent instruction. My problem was the timer and I followed your timer repair video to get up and running free of charge. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Usually the timer fix is a stopgap, but I've had it work for 9+ months according to customers. I'd really like to do a total rebuild on the contact pads, but I haven't found a good supply yet.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I know right? If you could find a supply of those contacts it you’d be 1/2 way there. Have you ever tried ripping them out from an old unit? Do they? Maybe heat gun?
So thankful for this. My dryer was the exact dryer used in the video and I was able to fix my dryer all on my own with this video’s help!!! Thank you so much!!!
What exactly was wrong with your dryer?
What you are doing is a genuine public service. Thank you!
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise.
Thx man! All fixed and running in less than an hour, free of charge!
Great to hear!
Another way to test the cycling thermostat and element thermostat is to remove them and shake then next to your ear. If it sounds like a high pitch rattle, it is usually good. If it has a dull rattle sound it probably has a burnt contact inside. It helps to have a good thermostat to rattle to hear what it should sound like.
Omg it was my breaker. It didn’t even look tripped lol. Reset it and everything worked fine. Wish I checked that first!
Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat and thermostat. Getting ready to replace the heating element and the hi limit cutoff
This is my exact dryer thats running but not heating. I have a feeling its the thermal fuse! Thanks for the video I am going to use it later to try to figure it out
At 5:10 the kind gentleman demonstrates how to test the thermostat for continuity, with his hands blocking 100% of wherever he might be placing the test leads. I’m kind of amazed at all the positive reviews.
Thank you for the video!! One question, what is it likely to be, if the dryer heats up most of the time. Sometimes it won't heat up at all. It's like it has a mind of its own. Any input would be greatly appreciated
Best ever troubleshoot video I have seen uptil now. Great work 5 stars ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Great job Ben! Found a burned out heating coil and the 4” exhaust had a HUGElargemous Lint Bunny stuffed into it. Tells me that the thermal high-limit switch was malfunctioning as well - although it ohmed out just fine. The whole 9 yards with all heating related components was all of $25 on Amazon.
A couple comments. First, I really was helped by this video. I was able to easily diagnose my dryer’s problem. Video was clear and actually pointed the right way. Clear explanations. Second, your clarifying which brands/models you are showing us (dryers with this configuration of lint filter) I thought of as just ‘nice’ until I watched someone else’s video for how to actually replace the heater element. That other video, even though it said it applied to what I had, was a totally different dryer. Your simple clarification is much more appreciated now. And third, perhaps a closer, different angle view of the thermostat and heater connections would be nice so I could be more certain I was checking the correct terminals.
I didn't have the camera setup to do it back then. I was using a static camera on a pole that only went up and down. I've since upgraded to a boom mic holder that allows me to position the camera inside whatever I'm filming - I agree with you, and it was a constant fight finding good angles that I could work with but also film with too (because honestly, doing the work and filming it are painfully difficult to do both). But I appreciate the comment and plan to follow up with another lint-top dryer from better angles. I did this with some washers and it went over well, so its definitely on the "To do list"!
best diy dryer vid so far
Thank you!!!! This was incredibly helpful! Wish I would have found your video HOURS ago when I first started trying to find why my dryer isn't heating. Would have saved me so much time. Appreciate your help!
Glad it helped! My channel is going to get monetized shortly which may help improve the search results for these kinds of answers. Hope you get yours up and running soon!
K.
@@bensappliancesandjunk hey can you send the video for the timer to me??
Hey I’m having this problem with my dryer it’s not heating just started yesterday and my nob won’t move when I start it. Need help on the nob part please I can’t find your video. On how to fix the nob.
Your video saved me from buying a new dryer!!! Thanks!👍👍
I have this same dryer but it gets hot but takes 4 or 5 cycles to dry clothes. Any suggestions thank you. The vent isn't clogged
Thank you for the information, i diagnosed and ordered the part i needed. Hopefully tomorrow i can have it functional.
Update
Part came and fixed my issue. Thank you for the information I greatly appreciate it
I replaced all the parts with the kit from Amazon. I noticed my heating element was burnt out, after replacing all 5 pieces my deyer is still cutting off after a few minutes and smells as if something is burning. Do you have any idea why?
Have a dryer that the element won't heat. When you turn it on plugged in 120v reaches the element fine when you turn the dryer on heat and turn it on. The thermal switches have no resistance when turned off as they should. The element tests good as it has 10 ohm resistance and does not short to ground. There's no apparent physical problem with the element. There's a light blue wire running down towards the motor that seems to have a short to ground but I'm not sure if that's normal being it goes to the motor windings. Seems like I remember that motor wires will show a short to ground. The motor works great. Is there some way that the element could actually be bad anyway? What would be your recommendation to do in this situation? How can the element test good, have 120v going to it, but not heat? Anyone have a clue if the element is bad anyway or is there something else that could cause this? Also, it has 120 volts through both legs.
Thank you for this video. My Amana's thermostat failed and took the hi limit cutoff with it. Looking on Amana's parts site the thermostat has been replaced with a higher limit one, so I'm assuming it's a common problem with the particular model I have. 70$ for them both. Cheaper than calling someone out for sure!
Thanks for the video really cool. I recommend maybe having a second camera with what your hands are doing cuz I couldn't see all that little spots you are connecting the multimeter to. Always thanks so much man
This video is 4 years old. I've invested in better tools since then a little
Hi! I have a question. When you are testing the timer on the dryer do you start the machine or not? Also when you diagnose the all the elements is the dryer plug on electricity? Cause in the beginning of the video the machine wasn't plugged in. Thank you.
Great, instructional video. I would like it better if you changed the camera angle and got it closer when you were testing the onboard components so I could see where you placed the probes.
My drier stop heating,it blows room temperature air,I replaced the heating element and the cycling thermostat and still no hot air,any suggestions? It's an amana similar to the one in this video,the other 2 thermostat looking part's beep when doing continuity test.
You are absolutely amazing! I wish there were more people like you out there on TH-cam doing these (high) quality instructional videos! You are the best!
TY so much for a great video!. I was able to solve my dryer problem by checking all the components in your video and found them to be working fine. My problem actually was the thermal fuse that went due to a clogged filter screen, creating an overheating situation and thus blowing the thermal fuse. I have told my tenant to clean the screen after each use going forward. Thanks Again.
Awesome! I am so glad this helped you!
I wonder if that is my problem as well.. did you have to replace the blue wires?
@@alexkashar1022 Hi Alex - Sorry for the late reply - No, I only needed to replace the thermal fuse. Armand
GREAT! I replaced the heating elements (Box) how long for the new burn off smell to dissapear? It's noit bad, but I just changed it out,
10-15min usually
Thank you for the excellent video. I have the same model, and I tested everything you suggested in the video other than the loose wires thing at the end ( I did not understand that part well). Everything looks fine, and the values are good, as you suggested. My drier still won’t dry. What could be the problem? I appreciate your help!
Also, I had only one spade on the heating element. For whatever reason, there is a place, but I don't see the wire also. Also, the terminal showed continuity. It is the one towards the machine side. My drier was working fine, but it stopped working when I moved to a different house.
Thank you for the education BEN !! YOU THE MAN !!!!
Amana not heating need the tester that was mentioned in vid. The ox help thanks
When testing and handling the spades of the heating elements etc, should the dryer be unplugged?
Thank you sir. Found I have a bad cycling t-stat because of this. Much appreciate the time you did to put this together!
Glad you found the culprit!
Your hands were covering the area you tested for the thermostat. The pic isn’t clear either.
A few people haven't been able to find the related video regarding refurbishing the timer on these style dryers, so here's the link: th-cam.com/video/Bgf21D0g-vM/w-d-xo.html
Also, link to purchase the element & sensors: bit.ly/3HYJI3r
First off, thank you very much for the super-informative video. My dryer wasn't heating up. I filled your step-by-step trouble-shooting, and sure enough, it was the "A" contact. So I cleaned it, put it back together, and it worked. Extremely helpful!
I have another question though. Now, I'm having a different problem (that also seems timer related). Now it doesn't stop when it gets to the end of the cycle. It just keeps drying. Any tips for which contacts control that?
Thanks in advance
@@rprcharron does the timer stop advancing and keep running, or does it just keep running and running? Also is it constantly on or intermittent?
@@bensappliancesandjunk The timer appears to keep advancing.
I took it apart again, and I think the problem was that the top cam was just slightly out of position. Adjusted it, and everything seems to be in working order now. Put it back together, tried running it a few seconds prior to each of the "off" positions, turned the dial to off, and it stopped. I guess the next step is to watch it heft time we use it, just to see if the dial turns on its own when it's supposed to.
Either way, thanks for the awesome video. Got a new subscriber here.
@@rprcharron I haven't had THAT specific issue before, but I've had a few instances where the cams being re-installed binded, causing it not to move at all, or the stem was real difficult to move... Hadn't had the opposite happen with it consistently running. Glad you were able to figure it out, and I'll have to add it to my memory of "Weird things that happen when refurbing a timer" ha ha.
I see what looks like a short red jumper wire hooked to the heating element thermostat. I don't have this wire, but only the red that connects to the top of the thermostat, the red that goes to the element terminal closest to you, and the orange that goes to the other, smaller thermostat terminal underneath that also connects to the other, larger element terminal, which is unused. Maybe your model is slightly different than mine. The thermostat part# is 3977767.
Also, when replacing the cycling thermostat, the purple wires are interchangeable. But which terminal is which for the red and red/white wires? My old part has an "X" engraved by one of the terminals and my new one, a pair of small circles.
Whats up bro so I tried the A B C part on timer wich is the first 3 prongs red blue blk correct? I get continuity on blue and blk but none on red that mean timer is bad???
Same here. What did you figure out?
@@blakehotard8240 my timer was bad but I did fix it..easy fix all I did was bend the end of the prongs to touch again works as good as new again...the link in the comments helped me go check it out 👍
2:48 Why doesn’t mine look like this when I remove the cover? It just has a mess of wires connected with plastic connectors.
Question i have a whirlpool dryer simular to this one ive cleaned the lint trap and inside caseing ,ive put in a new heat element and replaced all of the fuses tested the timer and im still getting cold air what am i doing wrong ???
Thanks for the video. One note: You show the "thermal fuse" on your diagram @ 4:13, but you failed to test it. This fuse is actually one of the most common things to go and a relatively inexpensive and simple fix.
Thanks to this video… I was able to figure out the problem in our dryer and changed the heating element…
Turns out mine was the plug that had a small curotion amount . sanded it off and started heating again thanks 👍
Ben.I have the same unit and replaced element ,timer and and all the thermostats,fuses.Still have no heat.And checked each component
My whirlpool dryer has a dedicated temperature knob. I tested all of the parts shown in the video and everything is working correctly. Is there a way to test the temperature knob?
Helped me fix my Amana dryer. I bought the kit from Amazon for $35. Turned out to be the Thermal fuse , $10 on Amazon.
Very informative. My Amana dryer just buzzes when I push to start. This happened yesterday. I've had the unit for 5 years.
This is one of the best instructional videos Ive seen on youtube. Great work. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
What would be helpful is if you talked about
Manual multiplmeters for those that have never used one. I’m sitting her with my dryer apart and have a basic manual multimeter and I’m lost at what it needs to be set on
I've never used one in my life, so I really can't tell you much about them.
I have a amana dryer and the heating element burned out. I have a new one but there seems to be a wire that's missing and I can't install it until I get a diagram for the way it supposed to be wired. Can you send me a picture of this?
Very efficient video production - THANKS! I went through all your component tests on my AMANA NED4655EW1. All tested good. No corrosion or loose connections observed. The dryer turns ON on every cycle normally. It cycles through and dries each load (all cycle options). The heat shuts off at the end of cycle, BUT.... the dryer continues to run forever. Is there something in the TIMER /Controller that is not allowing the TIMER to completely cycle to "OFF" ? Thanks for any advice.
Hi Ben, I have a Whirlpool mod WED4815EW1. No heat and timer did not advance. I replaced timer and that was not the solution. I checked the power. 120…120…240. I replaced all of the
parts and still no heat. What else might it be? Thanks for the great video! Randy
I have a question about the timer I took it out and cleaned terminals ...I'm getting continuity only from b and c not and c
My whirlpool wed5600sq0 dryer has no heat, and never appeared to have low heat.
All of my tests come within spec.
Hi volt block- 119,119, 238v
Stat- continuity
Element- continuity, 9ohm, no contact on housing.
Cycling stat- red, continuity, purple, 7.19 ohm
High limit cutoff- continuity
Timer- all connections as depicted in the diagram.
Thermal fuse continuity.
Cycled the breaker... Prayed, slept on it. Still no heat.
Can you help me diagnose this?
Fantastic breakdown sir! Taking it step by step I followed along and was able to diagnose my time and the thermostat need replacing. Thanks for taking the time! Saves us mechanically inclined folks hundreds.
Hey if timer isn’t mechanically clicking down anymore like it just stays on does that mean it is faulty also getting no heat
Thx … I followed along and it seems to be my: High Limit Cutoff. Thx for the video.
Nice work!
Hi brother, thank you for this video. I followed all the steps and the only thing that strayed away from a perfect test of all working elements was during the power check. I got 120 from the positive and negative terminal when attached to Neutral but nothing from positive negative with leads attached to eachother and no Neutral. I did just have my Main panel upgraded for a solar installation. is it possible this oddity is from a miss on the main pannel upgrade? Do you have any advice on this?
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise how you fix your issue.
Very helpful. Still not heating. Uhhg. On this model, I heard the c switch or something on the motor could be bad if all other components test good including the timer.
Hi Amanda, you got continuity between A and C on high heat? And you verified you're getting 230v or around that at the terminal block on dryer?
Your video is great but I have some questions. I checked the purple wires and I got nothing from this. You said this is the cycling thermostat. Do you have any videos on how to replace this?
I do, for Whirlpool (its the same thing)
Is there a wiring diagram for this in case we mix up the wiring connections?
Hi, great video I have a liquid propane, gas model is it the same procedure?
Disassembly and sensors, yes. No heating element, instead uses gas coils/valve so checking that will be different for sure.
Are you supposed to check while it’s plugged in??
I have this exact model Amana. I checked everything and got continuity to all of them including abc of timer.. all except for the low temp (purple wires) has no continuity and cant get an ohm reading on them either. But red wires for hi temp does. And I have no heat on hi or low. Would that mean thermostat is bad? Thanks!
My dryer is only not working on the low heat setting. It DOES work on the high heat setting. I DID need to clean out the vent tube and have done that. Does it sound like I only need the low heat fuse? (If I can skip all the other steps it would save me a ton of time!)
great video, saved me tinkering all day
My multimeter doesn’t have the feature you’re using to test the components what do I do?
Dumb question, but do you do this with it plugged in?
I tried using these tips to fix my dryer but after replacing every part and checking the timer, heat seems to only happen when i have my timer on high 40min and nothing else works. Any suggestions?
Hello there. I'm just a gal that has a lint problem. I don't know if you have heard of the lint being on the outer sliding lint collector and the inside just a bit. I have rearranged the dryer hose checked the wall flow is working because I can go outside and it's expelling heat. So it's really a lint thing. It's taking 2 hours to dry a load. Thank you.
Run water over lint filter in a washroom. See if it pools up. If it does, dryer sheet stuff has gotten on the filter itself and needs cleaned w/ a good bit of hot water. You can't see it, but its there.
Otherwise, you may want to dis-assemble the dryer a little, especially blower housing, and clean it out. If your dryer is a lot like this, if you have a real flexible tube for a vaccum (like a lint lizard) you can use it to suck out junk from the place where lint filter goes which is the blower housing.
Lack of drying comes from either lack of heat (from element) or lack of GOOD airflow. If you open door when its running and it feels like a super-humid jungle, then its going to most likely be airflow restriction somewhere.
Thank You! It was my timer. Great job breaking everything down in great detail👍
On one end I'm glad its the timer, but on the other, that one tends to be the most expensive to fix. I do have a video on repairing that style timer on my channel - if you want to go the route of sanding the contacts down and fixing it.
Hey I have this same dryer. It was working then all of a sudden I heard a noise and saw a spark then it cut off. When I unplugged it and looked at the back one of the screws were black and a little loose. Does that mean I'll need to replace my terminal block and all the wires? If so where would I start to even purchase them
I dropped glove down lint filter I figured it would drop down somewhere I turned it on and it made sound now will not work I took back off and I didn't know where to go to look now do u have help video for something like this
Hello again- I replace the two thingie in the heating coil sides and it now heats up!!! Woohoo!! Except now it seems too hot… how you I make sure it’s not running too hot and what could that mean?
As long as you buy the right ones you should be OK. The thermostat will cut heat off to make sure its not too hot. I would also make sure vents are clean and free of dirt.
@@bensappliancesandjunk thank you, the vets are clear. And he dryer isn’t heating again. 😢 I think I’ll have to call someone- or replace it. Thank you, though.
I followed your video step by step, and all the components were just fine, and I still have problems with the automatic low heat selection, I checked the 3 on the left for continuity as you pointed in your video and it is fine too... I am wondering if I have to check on the other 3 connectors on the right placing the selector in the automatic low where you didn't check on the video...?
Ben help me out, I did everything you did and came down to one part. Replaced and didn’t fix the issue. Ordered the kit with all the parts, swapped them all and still no heat. I’m stumped!
My Amana ned5100tql dryer's heating element only has one spade/wire. I checked the wires and I do not see on that has came off or broke off.
I tried to check the ohms for the thermal fuse, near the vent, and I found it would sometimes give 40ish but most of the time I got 0.00 on my multimeter
Some heating elements have a spade thats kind-of hardwired on the thermostat that goes from thermostat to element. You should be able to remove it, revealing the second spade.
I have the same Amana dryer you using to show. My question is: the highest heat automatic dry not working well, is there a sensor inside the dryer to sense when clothes getting dry? Can the sensor be clean?
Emery
If its not drying at a reasonable speed, check vent for obstructions as well as deep clean/wash the filter. Usually that solves it.