Thanks to this video I fixed my dryer by myself with no prior experience with dryer repair. Thank you so much. I found a used replacement part from a local recycler so my dryer is up and running for $25 the same day!
Great video! Thanks, was able to fix my Amana dryer for less than $19 following your video. In my case it was the fuse, the guy at the appliance parts store took one look, and reached under that counter and pulled one out. He said he sells around 100 of those a month. Took the ducting off, cleaned out the accumulated lint in the duct, and around the fan, checked everything over, re-assembled and back in business.
You just saved me a $100 call-out fee! I live deep in the woods and service repairmen typically charge a huge fee just to show up at my home. By watching your video I was able to diagnose the problem with my dryer and have ordered the necessary parts. Looking forward to having a working dryer again! Thank you!!!!
Sir I have never commented on TH-cam, however this is the best/ most informative/ no fat or filler video that I have seen in years. Thank you for making this whole task take 20 min tops. You are the man!
Thanks! The crazy thing is that tech-ing these style dryers once you know the basics is like... a 5-minute job, tops, with a drill gun (vs a screwdriver) and a multimeter. Very simple and easy IF you know what you're doing. If you don't know what you're doing, you can throw a lot of money into fixing the wrong thing.
Guys like this are a lifesaver! His videos and some comments walk me through the whole process of replacing my dryers heating elements and some other small parts. The repairs cost me less than $40, which beats the price of a new dryer!
great video on how to diagnose all for the parts. After a few minutes, I was able to determine which parts I needed, ordered my parts on Amazon on Friday and they arrived on Saturday. Total cost was $10! Thank you for the help.
my recommendation is to buy a small parts kit (not from whirlpool because they charge $200) for $20 and just to replace them all instead of wasting time diagnosing. Very good advice for someone that doesn't want to go buy a continuity meter.
Great video. I was able to use your tips to locate the damaged parts and less than $20.00 later I have a working dryer. Since the parts were so reasonable I ended up ordering a kit and replaced the fuses and thermometer.
It was my timer. I took it a part, looked at it, and put it back together and thought I check it again because it didn’t work before. IT WORKED, SO PUT IT TOGETHER AND PUT IT BACK IN PLACE AND IT STILL WORKS!!! Thanks for your video!!
You would really think that in a $600 appliance mostly consisting of sheet metal and cheap plastic rollers they could have provided a diagnostic feature like they did in the exact same series of washers. Especially given the cheapness of the plastic drum rollers and other parts that are guaranteed to fail. I suppose that would cut into their profit margin too much though. That being said, thank you for the detailed explanation. It appears very helpful.
Dude, I have that exact dryer and it wasn't heating. Your instructions were spot on. Found the bad part but, kit was only 25 bucks on Amazon just like you pointed out to another poster so, I went ahead and replaced all of it anyway. Working perfectly! Thanks man!
Awesome video. None of the extra un-needed rambling. Straight to the point and very helpful. I was familiar with how to test but I didn't know where in the dryer I'd have to look. You helped me fix my neighbor's dryer for under 30 bucks. Thank you. 👍
Awesome! Usually the timer fix is a stopgap, but I've had it work for 9+ months according to customers. I'd really like to do a total rebuild on the contact pads, but I haven't found a good supply yet.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I know right? If you could find a supply of those contacts it you’d be 1/2 way there. Have you ever tried ripping them out from an old unit? Do they? Maybe heat gun?
Thank you so much for this video. It did diagnose my issues 3 days ago. I was able to order my Heating Element and replaced it today. The dryer is working well now. Thank you
Just bought a new dryer to replace my old one that had the same issue... no heat! Surprise, my new dryer has this same problem!!! I'm on a business trip, but will be ordering one of your kits from your site to replace all of the sensors (you have some fantastic pricing btw). So, thank you! ;-)
So thankful for this. My dryer was the exact dryer used in the video and I was able to fix my dryer all on my own with this video’s help!!! Thank you so much!!!
A couple comments. First, I really was helped by this video. I was able to easily diagnose my dryer’s problem. Video was clear and actually pointed the right way. Clear explanations. Second, your clarifying which brands/models you are showing us (dryers with this configuration of lint filter) I thought of as just ‘nice’ until I watched someone else’s video for how to actually replace the heater element. That other video, even though it said it applied to what I had, was a totally different dryer. Your simple clarification is much more appreciated now. And third, perhaps a closer, different angle view of the thermostat and heater connections would be nice so I could be more certain I was checking the correct terminals.
I didn't have the camera setup to do it back then. I was using a static camera on a pole that only went up and down. I've since upgraded to a boom mic holder that allows me to position the camera inside whatever I'm filming - I agree with you, and it was a constant fight finding good angles that I could work with but also film with too (because honestly, doing the work and filming it are painfully difficult to do both). But I appreciate the comment and plan to follow up with another lint-top dryer from better angles. I did this with some washers and it went over well, so its definitely on the "To do list"!
Another way to test the cycling thermostat and element thermostat is to remove them and shake then next to your ear. If it sounds like a high pitch rattle, it is usually good. If it has a dull rattle sound it probably has a burnt contact inside. It helps to have a good thermostat to rattle to hear what it should sound like.
Great job Ben! Found a burned out heating coil and the 4” exhaust had a HUGElargemous Lint Bunny stuffed into it. Tells me that the thermal high-limit switch was malfunctioning as well - although it ohmed out just fine. The whole 9 yards with all heating related components was all of $25 on Amazon.
Thank you for the information, i diagnosed and ordered the part i needed. Hopefully tomorrow i can have it functional. Update Part came and fixed my issue. Thank you for the information I greatly appreciate it
Thank you!!!! This was incredibly helpful! Wish I would have found your video HOURS ago when I first started trying to find why my dryer isn't heating. Would have saved me so much time. Appreciate your help!
Glad it helped! My channel is going to get monetized shortly which may help improve the search results for these kinds of answers. Hope you get yours up and running soon!
At 5:10 the kind gentleman demonstrates how to test the thermostat for continuity, with his hands blocking 100% of wherever he might be placing the test leads. I’m kind of amazed at all the positive reviews.
This is my exact dryer thats running but not heating. I have a feeling its the thermal fuse! Thanks for the video I am going to use it later to try to figure it out
TY so much for a great video!. I was able to solve my dryer problem by checking all the components in your video and found them to be working fine. My problem actually was the thermal fuse that went due to a clogged filter screen, creating an overheating situation and thus blowing the thermal fuse. I have told my tenant to clean the screen after each use going forward. Thanks Again.
You are absolutely amazing! I wish there were more people like you out there on TH-cam doing these (high) quality instructional videos! You are the best!
On one end I'm glad its the timer, but on the other, that one tends to be the most expensive to fix. I do have a video on repairing that style timer on my channel - if you want to go the route of sanding the contacts down and fixing it.
Thanks for the video really cool. I recommend maybe having a second camera with what your hands are doing cuz I couldn't see all that little spots you are connecting the multimeter to. Always thanks so much man
Thank you for the video!! One question, what is it likely to be, if the dryer heats up most of the time. Sometimes it won't heat up at all. It's like it has a mind of its own. Any input would be greatly appreciated
Thanks for the video. One note: You show the "thermal fuse" on your diagram @ 4:13, but you failed to test it. This fuse is actually one of the most common things to go and a relatively inexpensive and simple fix.
Great video! Very thorough and helpful! It was my power that had the issue. My almighty electician hit something when repairing my ac unit breaker. I was only getting one side at 120. Thank you!!
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts? Please advise how you fix yours.
Thank you for a great helpful video. Also really appreciate the links to the correct parts. I hope your affiliate links help you get by in this economy!
Fantastic breakdown sir! Taking it step by step I followed along and was able to diagnose my time and the thermostat need replacing. Thanks for taking the time! Saves us mechanically inclined folks hundreds.
A few people haven't been able to find the related video regarding refurbishing the timer on these style dryers, so here's the link: th-cam.com/video/Bgf21D0g-vM/w-d-xo.html Also, link to purchase the element & sensors: bit.ly/3HYJI3r
First off, thank you very much for the super-informative video. My dryer wasn't heating up. I filled your step-by-step trouble-shooting, and sure enough, it was the "A" contact. So I cleaned it, put it back together, and it worked. Extremely helpful! I have another question though. Now, I'm having a different problem (that also seems timer related). Now it doesn't stop when it gets to the end of the cycle. It just keeps drying. Any tips for which contacts control that? Thanks in advance
I took it apart again, and I think the problem was that the top cam was just slightly out of position. Adjusted it, and everything seems to be in working order now. Put it back together, tried running it a few seconds prior to each of the "off" positions, turned the dial to off, and it stopped. I guess the next step is to watch it heft time we use it, just to see if the dial turns on its own when it's supposed to. Either way, thanks for the awesome video. Got a new subscriber here.
@@rprcharron I haven't had THAT specific issue before, but I've had a few instances where the cams being re-installed binded, causing it not to move at all, or the stem was real difficult to move... Hadn't had the opposite happen with it consistently running. Glad you were able to figure it out, and I'll have to add it to my memory of "Weird things that happen when refurbing a timer" ha ha.
Great, instructional video. I would like it better if you changed the camera angle and got it closer when you were testing the onboard components so I could see where you placed the probes.
Thank you for this video. My Amana's thermostat failed and took the hi limit cutoff with it. Looking on Amana's parts site the thermostat has been replaced with a higher limit one, so I'm assuming it's a common problem with the particular model I have. 70$ for them both. Cheaper than calling someone out for sure!
Thanks for this video! Gave me the confidence to dig in and see if I could find my issue. All of the tests passed, but I still get occassional non-heating. I'm just going to order all of the parts and be done with it.
Thank you for the excellent video. I have the same model, and I tested everything you suggested in the video other than the loose wires thing at the end ( I did not understand that part well). Everything looks fine, and the values are good, as you suggested. My drier still won’t dry. What could be the problem? I appreciate your help! Also, I had only one spade on the heating element. For whatever reason, there is a place, but I don't see the wire also. Also, the terminal showed continuity. It is the one towards the machine side. My drier was working fine, but it stopped working when I moved to a different house.
you're more helpful than the other videos ive watched. Only confusion i have is at the end when u show which terminals to test in the timer A, B, and C. you did clarify in what order or where to put my probes to each time. Do i put one probe from my tester one A and the other on B? Then A and C? then B and C? Or do i put both probes on A, both on B, and so on. and i couldnt tell in the video by watching it either. other than that, at least u explained the deal with the putty knife opening the top part. thanks
Very helpful. Still not heating. Uhhg. On this model, I heard the c switch or something on the motor could be bad if all other components test good including the timer.
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts? Please advise.
Hi! I have a question. When you are testing the timer on the dryer do you start the machine or not? Also when you diagnose the all the elements is the dryer plug on electricity? Cause in the beginning of the video the machine wasn't plugged in. Thank you.
Very efficient video production - THANKS! I went through all your component tests on my AMANA NED4655EW1. All tested good. No corrosion or loose connections observed. The dryer turns ON on every cycle normally. It cycles through and dries each load (all cycle options). The heat shuts off at the end of cycle, BUT.... the dryer continues to run forever. Is there something in the TIMER /Controller that is not allowing the TIMER to completely cycle to "OFF" ? Thanks for any advice.
You helped me figure out what was wrong with my washer last time so hoping you could tell me what's wrong with my dryer lol today all of a sudden my dryer started making a loud noise, the drum is moving and it's heating up but not drying my clothes, I have checked for lent blockage but it's clean
@@chasitypriest1393 Puddle of water usually means there's a blockage of the hot, moist air somewhere. It coalesces into liquid water instead of vapor, and results in a pool. Trace where the water's coming from, and you're gonna find a blockage.
What would be helpful is if you talked about Manual multiplmeters for those that have never used one. I’m sitting her with my dryer apart and have a basic manual multimeter and I’m lost at what it needs to be set on
So I am stumped on my amana electric dryer. It was taking longer and longer to dry, and now there is no heat at all on the low heat settings. Here are the things I checked: Things checked on Dryer: - Each leg has 110v & combined have 220v - Thermostat has continuity - Heating element has continuity and has approximately 10 ohms of resistance (within specs). Element is also grounded properly - Cycling Thermostat has continuity on primary heat red wires - Cycling thermostat low heat purple wires have 7.2 ohms (within specs) - High limit cut off/thermal fuse has continuity - Cleaned lint chute and blower wheel out (I do this regularly anyway so it wasn’t bad at all) When turned on to test, no heat at all on low settings. High heat gets to temperature quickly, but smells REALLY bad like something burning. This is new and I Did not smell prior to cleaning out lint. Drum is tumbling fine and belt is in good shape. Any ideas?
When you cleaned the lint chute, did you run hot water over it? Sometimes an invisible film from the dryer sheets/ect can get it on to where even if it looks clean, air won't flow. If you run water, see if it pools up on the filter. If it does, then that is restricting the air and you just need hot water & a little soap to clean it. Otherwise, MAYBE the contacts on timer need a light sanding or inspection. If something smells burning - there's a different between lint burning and any sort of obstruction.. Lint burning is very normal when the dryer's been moved around, even cleaned because dust particles will migrate to the element easier due to cleaning. If its something else-smelling, maybe a wire is starting to burn up.
@@bensappliancesandjunk awesome thank you for the quick reply and Merry Christmas! I did not run water over anything, I’ll have to try that. Just to be clear, I can run water down the entire metal chute (obviously I’ll make sure it’s completely dry before using again. The burning is most likely exactly what you said about a little lint burning after being moved around. I’ll try cleaning the timer contacts and will let you know if that helps. Thanks again
@@bensappliancesandjunk I cleaned the lint trap with a small amount of dish soap and water which definitely seemed to help the air flow. Also it appears that it may in fact actually be the timer. I took the terminals off and put them back on, and it worked. However when I reassembled it, it was not heating on low setting at all again. Even the high setting appears to be not heating reliably now. Should I try to fix it first, or just replace it? If replacing the timer, is there anything else you recommend to replace at the same time?
@@Landmine906 I've noticed sometimes that re assembling the timer after cleaning the contacts can bind the gear case for some wild reason. What id do is take the timer apart, clean contacts if you notice anything else. However, when you put it back together, use your multimeter to verify you are getting continuity on what should be the high heat setting when you turn the dial. Ive had a few times where the contacts and gear case get bound up to where it doesn't cycle right because the timer housing wasn't assembled correctly. Almost like its pushed together too hard so timer gears can't cycle. By testing continuity while rotating the timer, you can get an idea if maybe its intermittent and thatd be the issue.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I ended up just ordering a few of the common parts just in case from your website. I decided to get a belt/pulley kit too just to have on hand because it has been squeaking periodically.
I made the mistake of trying to find help on an appliance repair forums first. Silly me. Guess those forums are only for guys who already know how to fix everything, which is definitely not me.
This was helpful and easy to follow. I might suggest unplugging the unit before taking it apart. I have followed all of your steps and everything works. I'm looking for loose wires but i'm not finding anything. This is and amana model AED 4675yq0. Any additional input would be appreciated.
I believe I know what the problem is. I'm not an expert nor an electrician. I used the conductivity test on the volt ohm meter sets to audible on the thermal fuse. It gave audible tone so I thought the thermal fuse was properly functioning. A different website suggested bypassing the thermal fuse and clamping the leads together that go to the thermal fuse, plugging in the dryer and starting it. I did that and I immediately received heat. That leads me to conclude that even though the thermal fuse is conducting electricity (I got an audible tone) it is not providing proper resistance. Waiting to install the thermal fuse which I ordered.
Hi brother, thank you for this video. I followed all the steps and the only thing that strayed away from a perfect test of all working elements was during the power check. I got 120 from the positive and negative terminal when attached to Neutral but nothing from positive negative with leads attached to eachother and no Neutral. I did just have my Main panel upgraded for a solar installation. is it possible this oddity is from a miss on the main pannel upgrade? Do you have any advice on this?
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts? Please advise how you fix your issue.
i have seen at least 20 of "fix your dryer" videos but this one hands down is the best and most complete step by step on how to really fix your dryer.
Thanks to this video I fixed my dryer by myself with no prior experience with dryer repair. Thank you so much. I found a used replacement part from a local recycler so my dryer is up and running for $25 the same day!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks, was able to fix my Amana dryer for less than $19 following your video. In my case it was the fuse, the guy at the appliance parts store took one look, and reached under that counter and pulled one out. He said he sells around 100 of those a month. Took the ducting off, cleaned out the accumulated lint in the duct, and around the fan, checked everything over, re-assembled and back in business.
I fixed my dryer after watching y0ur video. Thermal fuse was defective. Bought a new one on ebay for $6.50 delivered. Dryer works great again.
You just saved me a $100 call-out fee! I live deep in the woods and service repairmen typically charge a huge fee just to show up at my home. By watching your video I was able to diagnose the problem with my dryer and have ordered the necessary parts. Looking forward to having a working dryer again! Thank you!!!!
Sir I have never commented on TH-cam, however this is the best/ most informative/ no fat or filler video that I have seen in years. Thank you for making this whole task take 20 min tops. You are the man!
Thanks! The crazy thing is that tech-ing these style dryers once you know the basics is like... a 5-minute job, tops, with a drill gun (vs a screwdriver) and a multimeter. Very simple and easy IF you know what you're doing. If you don't know what you're doing, you can throw a lot of money into fixing the wrong thing.
Guys like this are a lifesaver! His videos and some comments walk me through the whole process of replacing my dryers heating elements and some other small parts. The repairs cost me less than $40, which beats the price of a new dryer!
great video on how to diagnose all for the parts. After a few minutes, I was able to determine which parts I needed, ordered my parts on Amazon on Friday and they arrived on Saturday. Total cost was $10! Thank you for the help.
my recommendation is to buy a small parts kit (not from whirlpool because they charge $200) for $20 and just to replace them all instead of wasting time diagnosing. Very good advice for someone that doesn't want to go buy a continuity meter.
Please, Where can I find this kit? Thx
@@rosethecopycat Amazon. They have different part numbers for the same product btw because every brand is doing their own fake part number
Would you happen to have the link to this kit? I just received the part I thought was bad and I still have no heat 😢
Does it really cost $20? And is there really a kit?
@@joaquinsuarez6090 amazon or ebay
Great video. I was able to use your tips to locate the damaged parts and less than $20.00 later I have a working dryer. Since the parts were so reasonable I ended up ordering a kit and replaced the fuses and thermometer.
It was my timer. I took it a part, looked at it, and put it back together and thought I check it again because it didn’t work before. IT WORKED, SO PUT IT TOGETHER AND PUT IT BACK IN PLACE AND IT STILL WORKS!!!
Thanks for your video!!
Woo hoo! Glad to hear its fixed now!
Thanks to this video I just repaired my old Amana dryer by replacing the cycling thermostat and saved several hundred dollars!
You would really think that in a $600 appliance mostly consisting of sheet metal and cheap plastic rollers they could have provided a diagnostic feature like they did in the exact same series of washers. Especially given the cheapness of the plastic drum rollers and other parts that are guaranteed to fail. I suppose that would cut into their profit margin too much though. That being said, thank you for the detailed explanation. It appears very helpful.
my dryer is only getting a little warm, found the cycling tstat purple wires have 1.7k - ordered new one, this is amazing information, thank you!
Dude, I have that exact dryer and it wasn't heating. Your instructions were spot on. Found the bad part but, kit was only 25 bucks on Amazon just like you pointed out to another poster so, I went ahead and replaced all of it anyway. Working perfectly! Thanks man!
What was your issue? I’m having the same problem
Awesome video. None of the extra un-needed rambling. Straight to the point and very helpful. I was familiar with how to test but I didn't know where in the dryer I'd have to look. You helped me fix my neighbor's dryer for under 30 bucks. Thank you. 👍
Thank you Ben! We have an Amana dryer that my girlfriend was ready to take a loan to replace. Your video helped us diagnose that it was a cheap fix!
Just received the parts I ordered from you and got the dryer running like new. This video was a game changer. Thank you so much.
Excellent instruction. My problem was the timer and I followed your timer repair video to get up and running free of charge. Keep up the great work.
Awesome! Usually the timer fix is a stopgap, but I've had it work for 9+ months according to customers. I'd really like to do a total rebuild on the contact pads, but I haven't found a good supply yet.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I know right? If you could find a supply of those contacts it you’d be 1/2 way there. Have you ever tried ripping them out from an old unit? Do they? Maybe heat gun?
Thank you so much for this video. It did diagnose my issues 3 days ago. I was able to order my Heating Element and replaced it today. The dryer is working well now. Thank you
Well, like your name says "To God be all the glory " have a blessed day
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thank you. Have a blessed day as well.
@@togodbealltheglory362 where did you order it from?
Dude, your video helped me resolve a long standing problem. I am in your debt. Gracias!
Glad it helped
Just bought a new dryer to replace my old one that had the same issue... no heat!
Surprise, my new dryer has this same problem!!!
I'm on a business trip, but will be ordering one of your kits from your site to replace all of the sensors (you have some fantastic pricing btw).
So, thank you! ;-)
So thankful for this. My dryer was the exact dryer used in the video and I was able to fix my dryer all on my own with this video’s help!!! Thank you so much!!!
What exactly was wrong with your dryer?
A couple comments. First, I really was helped by this video. I was able to easily diagnose my dryer’s problem. Video was clear and actually pointed the right way. Clear explanations. Second, your clarifying which brands/models you are showing us (dryers with this configuration of lint filter) I thought of as just ‘nice’ until I watched someone else’s video for how to actually replace the heater element. That other video, even though it said it applied to what I had, was a totally different dryer. Your simple clarification is much more appreciated now. And third, perhaps a closer, different angle view of the thermostat and heater connections would be nice so I could be more certain I was checking the correct terminals.
I didn't have the camera setup to do it back then. I was using a static camera on a pole that only went up and down. I've since upgraded to a boom mic holder that allows me to position the camera inside whatever I'm filming - I agree with you, and it was a constant fight finding good angles that I could work with but also film with too (because honestly, doing the work and filming it are painfully difficult to do both). But I appreciate the comment and plan to follow up with another lint-top dryer from better angles. I did this with some washers and it went over well, so its definitely on the "To do list"!
Another way to test the cycling thermostat and element thermostat is to remove them and shake then next to your ear. If it sounds like a high pitch rattle, it is usually good. If it has a dull rattle sound it probably has a burnt contact inside. It helps to have a good thermostat to rattle to hear what it should sound like.
Best ever troubleshoot video I have seen uptil now. Great work 5 stars ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Great job Ben! Found a burned out heating coil and the 4” exhaust had a HUGElargemous Lint Bunny stuffed into it. Tells me that the thermal high-limit switch was malfunctioning as well - although it ohmed out just fine. The whole 9 yards with all heating related components was all of $25 on Amazon.
What you are doing is a genuine public service. Thank you!
Thx man! All fixed and running in less than an hour, free of charge!
Great to hear!
Thank you for the information, i diagnosed and ordered the part i needed. Hopefully tomorrow i can have it functional.
Update
Part came and fixed my issue. Thank you for the information I greatly appreciate it
Thank you!!!! This was incredibly helpful! Wish I would have found your video HOURS ago when I first started trying to find why my dryer isn't heating. Would have saved me so much time. Appreciate your help!
Glad it helped! My channel is going to get monetized shortly which may help improve the search results for these kinds of answers. Hope you get yours up and running soon!
K.
@@bensappliancesandjunk hey can you send the video for the timer to me??
At 5:10 the kind gentleman demonstrates how to test the thermostat for continuity, with his hands blocking 100% of wherever he might be placing the test leads. I’m kind of amazed at all the positive reviews.
This is my exact dryer thats running but not heating. I have a feeling its the thermal fuse! Thanks for the video I am going to use it later to try to figure it out
best diy dryer vid so far
TY so much for a great video!. I was able to solve my dryer problem by checking all the components in your video and found them to be working fine. My problem actually was the thermal fuse that went due to a clogged filter screen, creating an overheating situation and thus blowing the thermal fuse. I have told my tenant to clean the screen after each use going forward. Thanks Again.
Awesome! I am so glad this helped you!
I wonder if that is my problem as well.. did you have to replace the blue wires?
@@alexkashar1022 Hi Alex - Sorry for the late reply - No, I only needed to replace the thermal fuse. Armand
Your video saved me from buying a new dryer!!! Thanks!👍👍
You are absolutely amazing! I wish there were more people like you out there on TH-cam doing these (high) quality instructional videos! You are the best!
Turns out mine was the plug that had a small curotion amount . sanded it off and started heating again thanks 👍
Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat and thermostat. Getting ready to replace the heating element and the hi limit cutoff
Thank you sir. Found I have a bad cycling t-stat because of this. Much appreciate the time you did to put this together!
Glad you found the culprit!
Your hands were covering the area you tested for the thermostat. The pic isn’t clear either.
Thanks to this video… I was able to figure out the problem in our dryer and changed the heating element…
Thank You! It was my timer. Great job breaking everything down in great detail👍
On one end I'm glad its the timer, but on the other, that one tends to be the most expensive to fix. I do have a video on repairing that style timer on my channel - if you want to go the route of sanding the contacts down and fixing it.
Thank you for the education BEN !! YOU THE MAN !!!!
Thanks for the video really cool. I recommend maybe having a second camera with what your hands are doing cuz I couldn't see all that little spots you are connecting the multimeter to. Always thanks so much man
This video is 4 years old. I've invested in better tools since then a little
Very informative. My Amana dryer just buzzes when I push to start. This happened yesterday. I've had the unit for 5 years.
Thank you for the video!! One question, what is it likely to be, if the dryer heats up most of the time. Sometimes it won't heat up at all. It's like it has a mind of its own. Any input would be greatly appreciated
Helped me figure out my problem for my dryer thank
You🙏🏻🙏🏻
Such a clean and concise video. Thank you so much man this is awesome.
Great video, I am troubleshooting the exact model you have here. Or at least one that looks exactly like it!
Thx … I followed along and it seems to be my: High Limit Cutoff. Thx for the video.
Nice work!
Thank you ! Saved me a lot of money and a very happy spouse.
This is one of the best instructional videos Ive seen on youtube. Great work. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for the video. One note: You show the "thermal fuse" on your diagram @ 4:13, but you failed to test it. This fuse is actually one of the most common things to go and a relatively inexpensive and simple fix.
Great video! Very thorough and helpful! It was my power that had the issue. My almighty electician hit something when repairing my ac unit breaker. I was only getting one side at 120. Thank you!!
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise how you fix yours.
Watch your video, thank you very much. I was able to fix mine. Amazon sells the multi meter that you suggested. I have one now. Thanks again.
Thank you for a great helpful video. Also really appreciate the links to the correct parts. I hope your affiliate links help you get by in this economy!
Fantastic breakdown sir! Taking it step by step I followed along and was able to diagnose my time and the thermostat need replacing. Thanks for taking the time! Saves us mechanically inclined folks hundreds.
Helped me fix my Amana dryer. I bought the kit from Amazon for $35. Turned out to be the Thermal fuse , $10 on Amazon.
Yes sir this was SUPER informative and vivid details with the visual part of it all
Thanks
great video, saved me tinkering all day
A few people haven't been able to find the related video regarding refurbishing the timer on these style dryers, so here's the link: th-cam.com/video/Bgf21D0g-vM/w-d-xo.html
Also, link to purchase the element & sensors: bit.ly/3HYJI3r
First off, thank you very much for the super-informative video. My dryer wasn't heating up. I filled your step-by-step trouble-shooting, and sure enough, it was the "A" contact. So I cleaned it, put it back together, and it worked. Extremely helpful!
I have another question though. Now, I'm having a different problem (that also seems timer related). Now it doesn't stop when it gets to the end of the cycle. It just keeps drying. Any tips for which contacts control that?
Thanks in advance
@@rprcharron does the timer stop advancing and keep running, or does it just keep running and running? Also is it constantly on or intermittent?
@@bensappliancesandjunk The timer appears to keep advancing.
I took it apart again, and I think the problem was that the top cam was just slightly out of position. Adjusted it, and everything seems to be in working order now. Put it back together, tried running it a few seconds prior to each of the "off" positions, turned the dial to off, and it stopped. I guess the next step is to watch it heft time we use it, just to see if the dial turns on its own when it's supposed to.
Either way, thanks for the awesome video. Got a new subscriber here.
@@rprcharron I haven't had THAT specific issue before, but I've had a few instances where the cams being re-installed binded, causing it not to move at all, or the stem was real difficult to move... Hadn't had the opposite happen with it consistently running. Glad you were able to figure it out, and I'll have to add it to my memory of "Weird things that happen when refurbing a timer" ha ha.
Thank you! I fixed my dryer following your instructions
Great video I figured mine to be the hi level sensor thingy it didn’t have any reading at all but the thermostat read around 9
Great!
Great, instructional video. I would like it better if you changed the camera angle and got it closer when you were testing the onboard components so I could see where you placed the probes.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world
Thanks Ben! Helped out greatly!
Thank you for this video. My Amana's thermostat failed and took the hi limit cutoff with it. Looking on Amana's parts site the thermostat has been replaced with a higher limit one, so I'm assuming it's a common problem with the particular model I have. 70$ for them both. Cheaper than calling someone out for sure!
Amana not heating need the tester that was mentioned in vid. The ox help thanks
Thanks for this video!
Gave me the confidence to dig in and see if I could find my issue.
All of the tests passed, but I still get occassional non-heating.
I'm just going to order all of the parts and be done with it.
Did it work?
@@cra2cra226 Yes it did!
Saved me over $150.00 for a 10.00 heat relay for 3 minutes of work.
Thanks! This video saved me a lot of 💰
Thank you for the excellent video. I have the same model, and I tested everything you suggested in the video other than the loose wires thing at the end ( I did not understand that part well). Everything looks fine, and the values are good, as you suggested. My drier still won’t dry. What could be the problem? I appreciate your help!
Also, I had only one spade on the heating element. For whatever reason, there is a place, but I don't see the wire also. Also, the terminal showed continuity. It is the one towards the machine side. My drier was working fine, but it stopped working when I moved to a different house.
Great walk through. Just determined it was the cycling thermostat for our Amana ned4600yq1
Nice work! I am glad it was a cheap part. I don't see too many of the cycling thermostats go bad. Its usually the components on the heating element.
10:08
Ur video saved me A LOT ot money. Ty very much.
Glad it helped!
Excellent Resource & easy to follow.
you're more helpful than the other videos ive watched. Only confusion i have is at the end when u show which terminals to test in the timer A, B, and C. you did clarify in what order or where to put my probes to each time. Do i put one probe from my tester one A and the other on B? Then A and C? then B and C? Or do i put both probes on A, both on B, and so on. and i couldnt tell in the video by watching it either. other than that, at least u explained the deal with the putty knife opening the top part. thanks
I don't think it matters the order. A to B, then A to C, then B to C.
Thank you so much this helped me fix my dryer thank you
Very helpful. Still not heating. Uhhg. On this model, I heard the c switch or something on the motor could be bad if all other components test good including the timer.
Hi Amanda, you got continuity between A and C on high heat? And you verified you're getting 230v or around that at the terminal block on dryer?
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise.
You are very informative for a DIY'er.
Thanks!
fantastic, a+ video and solutions
Hi! I have a question. When you are testing the timer on the dryer do you start the machine or not? Also when you diagnose the all the elements is the dryer plug on electricity? Cause in the beginning of the video the machine wasn't plugged in. Thank you.
Very efficient video production - THANKS! I went through all your component tests on my AMANA NED4655EW1. All tested good. No corrosion or loose connections observed. The dryer turns ON on every cycle normally. It cycles through and dries each load (all cycle options). The heat shuts off at the end of cycle, BUT.... the dryer continues to run forever. Is there something in the TIMER /Controller that is not allowing the TIMER to completely cycle to "OFF" ? Thanks for any advice.
Fantastic instructions and visual demonstrations, thanks
I have this same dryer but it gets hot but takes 4 or 5 cycles to dry clothes. Any suggestions thank you. The vent isn't clogged
You helped me figure out what was wrong with my washer last time so hoping you could tell me what's wrong with my dryer lol today all of a sudden my dryer started making a loud noise, the drum is moving and it's heating up but not drying my clothes, I have checked for lent blockage but it's clean
if its heating but not drying, its a vent obstruction, Lint or somethings' preventing the hot, moist air from heading out the unit.
@@bensappliancesandjunk would that explain why it's so loud now also
@@bensappliancesandjunk also had a puddle of water underneath 🤦♀️
@@chasitypriest1393 Puddle of water usually means there's a blockage of the hot, moist air somewhere. It coalesces into liquid water instead of vapor, and results in a pool. Trace where the water's coming from, and you're gonna find a blockage.
Great video I'm not trained in electrical so the only issue for me I can't tell where he is testing
What would be helpful is if you talked about
Manual multiplmeters for those that have never used one. I’m sitting her with my dryer apart and have a basic manual multimeter and I’m lost at what it needs to be set on
I've never used one in my life, so I really can't tell you much about them.
So I am stumped on my amana electric dryer. It was taking longer and longer to dry, and now there is no heat at all on the low heat settings. Here are the things I checked:
Things checked on Dryer:
- Each leg has 110v & combined have 220v
- Thermostat has continuity
- Heating element has continuity and has approximately 10 ohms of resistance (within specs). Element is also grounded properly
- Cycling Thermostat has continuity on primary heat red wires
- Cycling thermostat low heat purple wires have 7.2 ohms (within specs)
- High limit cut off/thermal fuse has continuity
- Cleaned lint chute and blower wheel out (I do this regularly anyway so it wasn’t bad at all)
When turned on to test, no heat at all on low settings. High heat gets to temperature quickly, but smells REALLY bad like something burning. This is new and I Did not smell prior to cleaning out lint. Drum is tumbling fine and belt is in good shape. Any ideas?
When you cleaned the lint chute, did you run hot water over it? Sometimes an invisible film from the dryer sheets/ect can get it on to where even if it looks clean, air won't flow. If you run water, see if it pools up on the filter. If it does, then that is restricting the air and you just need hot water & a little soap to clean it.
Otherwise, MAYBE the contacts on timer need a light sanding or inspection.
If something smells burning - there's a different between lint burning and any sort of obstruction.. Lint burning is very normal when the dryer's been moved around, even cleaned because dust particles will migrate to the element easier due to cleaning. If its something else-smelling, maybe a wire is starting to burn up.
@@bensappliancesandjunk awesome thank you for the quick reply and Merry Christmas! I did not run water over anything, I’ll have to try that. Just to be clear, I can run water down the entire metal chute (obviously I’ll make sure it’s completely dry before using again.
The burning is most likely exactly what you said about a little lint burning after being moved around.
I’ll try cleaning the timer contacts and will let you know if that helps. Thanks again
@@bensappliancesandjunk I cleaned the lint trap with a small amount of dish soap and water which definitely seemed to help the air flow.
Also it appears that it may in fact actually be the timer. I took the terminals off and put them back on, and it worked. However when I reassembled it, it was not heating on low setting at all again. Even the high setting appears to be not heating reliably now.
Should I try to fix it first, or just replace it? If replacing the timer, is there anything else you recommend to replace at the same time?
@@Landmine906 I've noticed sometimes that re assembling the timer after cleaning the contacts can bind the gear case for some wild reason. What id do is take the timer apart, clean contacts if you notice anything else. However, when you put it back together, use your multimeter to verify you are getting continuity on what should be the high heat setting when you turn the dial. Ive had a few times where the contacts and gear case get bound up to where it doesn't cycle right because the timer housing wasn't assembled correctly. Almost like its pushed together too hard so timer gears can't cycle. By testing continuity while rotating the timer, you can get an idea if maybe its intermittent and thatd be the issue.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I ended up just ordering a few of the common parts just in case from your website. I decided to get a belt/pulley kit too just to have on hand because it has been squeaking periodically.
Thank you from Tucson Az.
I made the mistake of trying to find help on an appliance repair forums first. Silly me. Guess those forums are only for guys who already know how to fix everything, which is definitely not me.
Thanks for posting!
This was helpful and easy to follow. I might suggest unplugging the unit before taking it apart. I have followed all of your steps and everything works. I'm looking for loose wires but i'm not finding anything. This is and amana model AED 4675yq0. Any additional input would be appreciated.
I believe I know what the problem is. I'm not an expert nor an electrician. I used the conductivity test on the volt ohm meter sets to audible on the thermal fuse. It gave audible tone so I thought the thermal fuse was properly functioning. A different website suggested bypassing the thermal fuse and clamping the leads together that go to the thermal fuse, plugging in the dryer and starting it. I did that and I immediately received heat. That leads me to conclude that even though the thermal fuse is conducting electricity (I got an audible tone) it is not providing proper resistance. Waiting to install the thermal fuse which I ordered.
Hi, great video I have a liquid propane, gas model is it the same procedure?
Disassembly and sensors, yes. No heating element, instead uses gas coils/valve so checking that will be different for sure.
Thank you for this!
Ben.I have the same unit and replaced element ,timer and and all the thermostats,fuses.Still have no heat.And checked each component
Ty very informative!!
When testing and handling the spades of the heating elements etc, should the dryer be unplugged?
You are the man!!
Hi brother, thank you for this video. I followed all the steps and the only thing that strayed away from a perfect test of all working elements was during the power check. I got 120 from the positive and negative terminal when attached to Neutral but nothing from positive negative with leads attached to eachother and no Neutral. I did just have my Main panel upgraded for a solar installation. is it possible this oddity is from a miss on the main pannel upgrade? Do you have any advice on this?
I am only getting 124 volts on each leg of outlet and on each screw/wire of braker and when combine both legs of 124 volts on either outlet or braker I get 0 volts. Replaced braker and still 0 volts. Any idea why can't get 240 volts?
Please advise how you fix your issue.