Haven't had a chance to test if it holds zero, but mounts just fine and has nice clear glass. Centered vertically true to a plumb line with the crosshairs which is always a plus!It's a great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope. There's no parallax adjustment or focus ring, so may be limited to 3-7x, have to see how it is on the range. Also be aware that the rings are "look through" so you can still use irons, but they are really tall if you only intend to use the optics. On a 22LR no biggie since I'm not shooting competitions or worried about a hard cheek press. Will boresight and range test, if all goes well, I'll leave it at that!
Happened to come across this video a day before my badger ordnance 20moa base came in. I'm new to bolt guns/precision shooting this video was a great help and very informative. Thanks to this video I successfully bedded my base and without the video would have never even known it needed to be bedded. Thanks for uploading! Definitely going to check out the rest of your videos!
Just bedded my rail the other night, it was pretty simple but had a good instructional video to follow also. Thanks for taking the time to make and post this, I never even thought about doing this but after seeing the gap with my own eyes, just makes sense to correct the misalignment and properly fit everything together.
Nice video, thanks for making it. Just encountered my first base/receiver mismatch and this is precisely the information I was looking for. I use Devcon when bedding recoil lugs/tangs and like to use cardboard for mixing so you have an exact sample of the batch used in the project. You know the status of the epoxy at all times without guessing. Thanks again!
Thank you for a great videshow sir.I now have the confidence to attempt bedding my 700's stock rail if needed. Getting ready to install my scope . Going to remove the stock Remington rail and check for gap or daylight. I want a solid foundation ! Thanks again for the education!
Excellent job bedding the base. To my surprise, my Badger base needed bedding as well. Im very glad I did so in the manner you did. Thank you for the video, John.
I purchased a Rem 700 308 tactical and I am awaiting my Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50, I am also waiting for my Bell and Carlson Medalist A5. When I get my scope and rail mount I can check to see if I need any bedding and will have the knowledge to do the job!! Thx for your effort!!!
Thanks for the quick reply. I wish I had done this with my base. You have a great informative website as well. Thanks to your vids, I have started reloading my own ammo for about a year now. Excellent work, Devildog! Former Corporal of Marines - A 1/3 - Out.
I really want to thank you again for these videos! I actually watched them while I installed the Picatinny rail, Scope Rings and Scope! It was really so much easier with you more or less talking me through the process. =) Time to hit the range!
Great Vid, went ahead and did all of my R700's. Even found a gap under my Leupold M4 1 piece base, although it was not as prominent as other bases it was still there. You can really tell after you bed it and see how much space the bedding material fills. I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish and Devcon 10110 for all of my bedding. As for masking tape, it is .004" thick and will introduce an air gap; which is what we are trying to remove.
Great series for people that are on a budget. Your vids have been VERY helpful in building my first precision rifle. BTW its a Remington 700 just like this one. Thanks!!!
OUTSTANDING!!! I doing a little different and use different products but we both achieve the same end game. I hope your weapon system is producing what you desire out of it. Stay at the ready, it's coming. Semper Fi.
I did this yesterday by following your video to the letter. It was a quite easy job once i`ve seen the video a few times and i got a good result :) Thanks for posting this video :)
I performed this type bedding job on the rear first and then moved to the front just lightly tightened the screws (opposite of epoxy screws) during cure. I pushed wax into the taps instead of play doe as it is a lot easier clean up. After it fully cured (gave it a few days but did remove and clean up after about 5 hours). Then I also bedded the front including the lug using the same style. The mount is ROCK SOLID on there now with absolute 100% flat contact. I also did a custom bed job on the rings. Anyway she shot 5 shot sub MOA at 200 meters with factory ammo.
8541 Tactical, great job and thanks for doing the hard work to pull this together... I just bought a 700 Varmit and was looking for exactly this type of video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow... and I thought it would be as simple as taking it out of the box and just screwing it on. But for precise accuracy, attentive to detail is required. Thank you.
Really enjoyed the 700 AAC SD build. I've done something similar, although I started before I saw the series. Mine has the same scope, a Precision Armament brake, the fully adjustable B&C stock, a Timney 510 trigger, a Wyatt detachable mag system, and a Harris bipod. A few weeks ago, after zeroing it in at 200 yards, and letting it cool for a few minutes, I drilled a 1//2" bull's eye at that distance. Group size for 5 rounds was 1-1/4" or about 5/8 MOA. Pretty please with that.
I obtained a Remington 700 308 after my dad passed away. It has the same stock, 20 inch barrel but the barrel is fluted and threaded. Barrel markings say Lt Tactical. I haven’t found this exact setup in any video or information on line. Great shooting gun but I’m gonna change the stock and trigger.
Tried this and used floor wax. I waited exactly 5 hours @ 68-70 deg f but the JB Weld was no where near cured when I took it apart and half stuck to the rifle. Going to get some fresh JB and try again.
Great video. Worked almost perfect. However the next time I do this I will put a little bit of Play Doh in the base holes as well. Kind of had a hard time getting the J.B Weld out of those once it dried. But I really love all your Remington 700 videos. I couldn't be happier with my rifle now. And that's all thanks to you 8541 TAC. Do you have a video on installing an after market trigger. I just ordered a Timney Elite Trigger because I still have the X-PRO piece of garbage in mine and I would love to see a video on after market trigger installs. Thanks again 8541. Your awesome.
You are guessing you needed to bed the back end of the scope mount. What you need is a Machinists Straight Edge. First check the top of the picatinny mount with the straight edge to see if in fact its flat. Aluminum tends to warp during high speed machining. Go ahead, and install the scope mount as per the instructions. Then using the straight edge across the picatinny's scope ring mounting surface check for any air gap (light) . This way you'll know for a fact witch end to bed.
Yes Lapping the rings does align the bores in between the scope rings but if you have align-able scope rings like Leupold or other types you use the two aligning rods and get the rings aligned then lap them until it shows even contact over the majority of the rings.
@wbarnette1 I personally find a 1 piece base offers 2 main advantages. 1: more flexability in where you place your scope, allowing proper eye relief for your preferred cheek weld. 2: less chance you'll need to lap your rings.
To anyone watching this video, after removing the base and drilling the excess JB weld out of the screw holes, put the base back on with the front two screws and wait al least 12 hours to make sure the JB weld is fully cured. If you don't you could ruin all the work you just did by smashing the uncured compound out.
Yes, that is correct. After the four hours and hand drill bit removal of JB Weld in rear base holes, the JB Weld would ideally need more time to completely cure (rather than torque down right away as shown in video). This way you are playing it safe that your bed job doesn’t get slightly compromised.
Great video, just knocked out my 700 LA using Brownells Steel Bed. Using Burris Zee Weaver Sig for rings so lapping wasnt a issue. However since the rear of the receiver sits lower it was sacrificing scope elevation. One problem I ran into was my cheap torque wrench. I like that one you got, is that the one on brownells? Thanks again for the Vid
I think I've seen all of the series. I was just wondering if you kept a record of all the groups, or if you know a ballpark average 5 shot group size at 100 yards. Thanks, this was an awesome series so far.
@LoneWolfUSMC I am referring to a cant in the scope base, the base mounting holes are slightly larger diameter than the mounting screws and this allows lateral movement and this movement can cause the base to be tilted on one side or the other if not leveled before tightening the screws down. You have to make sure the receiver is level and then level the base onto the receiver.
this is a well done 'how to'. I'm looking to put a weaver system on my remington 700, but i notice that they make this available as a two-piece weaver mount. Would seem to make things simpler, but can't help feel there may be a major con to it. Any advice regarding a two-piece weaver system instead?
I will say this, I did have problems with the wax method. I ended up having to clean the first attempt off and starting over. Not a big deal. The 2nd attempt, I used wax paper. Didn't have to put anything in the screw holes. This morning, I pulled the rail off, took my dremel tool with a drill bit and cleaned the holes out on the rail. Will mount later!
@LoneWolfUSMC Thats not what I meant. The base holes are slightly larger than the screw diameter so you can actually move the mount from side to side slightly. This could result in the base being slightly canted. The base will self center lengthwise because of the mating surface with the barrel.
@LoneWolfUSMC Didnt you put playdoh in the rear receiver holes though? I know the screws are small and probably somewhat fragile, so I wasnt sure when you tightened them down, if a small amount of JB weld got on the mount and wasnt removed, if it could damage the screw when they get torqued.
I'm just curious why you didn't recommend a 1 piece scope mount such as the Dead Nutz mounts It's similar to the $300 Night Force mount but is only $70
What "extended" range capabilities are given with the 20 MOA scope base rather than if I just use a 0 MOA or 15 MOA scope base? Probably a stupid question. Thanks! Getting that gun in a couple weeks!
Hey, Lone Wolf, thanks for the vids. What about shims to bed the rail? I'm sure they sell them in varying thicknesses. It seems it would be a little safer than JBWeld. Just a thought. Thanks again.
You forgot to mention making sure the action is level and the base mounted level to the receiver. It is possible to mount the base tilted if not. I found out the hard way. Had to remove JB weld and start over.
Not a bad idea. But the only person I know with a good scope is in Cuba... The epoxy on my bedding job is curing right now. It looked simple enough and I have already done pillar and epoxy bedding in my stock to great success, so I went ahead and did it regardless. Hopefully, this cures my ills. Thanks for the feedback.
John, Thank you for your HARD WORK on these well done videos. I hope I am not to far off subject matter for this question. I have a few questions about scope rings/one piece bases: I have an AR clone in 5.56, 16 inch barrel, I want to install a scope (1.25-4x20), adjustment elevation and windage 90MOA, the choice of one piece mount is available in 0 MOA or 20MOA. I would not expect to shoot more than 300 yards. Which base do you recommend, 0 or 20 MOA? Thanks again for your hard work.
hey man im new to precision rifles and ive heard good things about this rifle problem is i dont know crap what would be a good way to start. thanks Dan
My Remington 700 actually came with a pair of weaver style rails to hold the mystery scope it came with. I've settled on the Bushnell Elite 3200 10x40mm (found an awesome deal even better than the Millett I found!) Would it be difficult to perhaps swap them out for a full length rail as shown in the video?
I plan on building a 700. I'm going to order a action and recoil lug off of brownells and get a Harts barrel. Im not too sure what work needs to be done to it. Harts says if I send my action to them, they will do the chambering, threading, fitting, and squaring for $700 (includes cost of barrel itself). Is this all that needs to be done or is there more to it? Semper Fi fellow devil dog.
I have this same rifle on order and I want to purchase that very same Weaver picatinny base you mounted in this video. Just a couple questions. This M700 AAC (.308) is a Short Action, right? Also would you recommend getting the 20 MOA version of this Weaver picatinny base or the regular [flat/parallel] version? I plan to use no smaller than a 50mm lens size scope (not sure if that matters). Thanks for all the info and tutorial, great videos!
Great vid, very informative, too funny , I've got the same rifle and Weavers SA Picatinny Rail. Question, do you thing lapping the rings would fix the issue or was the gap simply too large and the lapping would have removed too much material from the rings?
Good job. Had an unofficial conversation w a supervisor of a MAJOR US scope manufacturer recently. During this, he mentioned most of their scope tech use JBWeld to bed their mounts due to such variance between any given receiver and scope mount mating surfaces causing wiggle to make it all come loose eventually. A simple fix to a simple problem. And they all use 25inch pounds. Where did you find that little torque tool/wrench? Kinda handy. Thx.
so why wouldnt you just go ahead and bed the front just to make sure its perfect. Sorry if its redundant but I'm very new to this and buying a 700P very soon. Just trying to find the right price on one. Thanks for any input
Nice video, very interesting since I just got an SPS Tactical last week. Dumb question...how did you get the Play-Doh out of the screw hole? Just let it dry and pop it out?
I've been watching ur budget build the problume for me is the remington 700 u keep talking about is only for right hand shooters, and i happen to be a lefty looking for a good rifle to start that is in left hand confg that would make for a great budget build platform
Haven't done this yet. Mounted a cope on savage 10TR but I haven't checked the base if it's snug and tight as there are sing factory-installed bases with aren't degreased and loosely screwed. In your vid, wouldn't it tilt the base further downwards if only putting front screws during bedding?
Lonewolf, I see in another video where a guy grinded and made rough the bottom of the scope mount to help the epoxy adhere to the mount. Is this an extra step to provide a better bond or not necessary at all?
I just got a millet for my R700p. I am trying to mount my 20 MOA millet picatinny rail, but the mounting screws aren't long enough. Any ideas as to a good size to get before I buy all the #6-48 with different lengths in the store? Semper Fi
G'day mate enjoy your vids very educational for a newbie to the art of shooting. This will probably be a dumb question and probably cause myself to bang my head on the wall for its stupidity, but what weaver base did you use the LA or SA? The brain says SA, however i was wondering is there a difference between LA and SA? many thanks .
How long should you wait until you run the drill bit by hand through the screw holes? Also, should you re-tighten the front screws after you hand drill the holes to allow the JB weld to finish curing?
Everything you said is what I was thinking. It's just piece of mind knowing I could switch the base if I ever upgraded my rifle and didn't sell the old one. By the way, this precision rifle you made, what kind of groups is it shooting now? Have you given it hand loads yet? Thank you.
Funny I'm looking at the same rail for that gun. Should I get it with the 20MOA or 0. I plan on shooting at long distance with it eventually. This is a bit confusing for me, will the 20MOA in the rail screw me at closer distances like say zeroing at 100 meters? I'm going with a Nikon 8408. And my bad if this doesn't make sense I'm new to this.
Also, when you applied the JB weld to the scope base, how did you open the mounting holes back up on it? Were you able to just stick the bit through to make those holes? They had been covered up when you set the base.
@LoneWolfUSMC Thanks for the clarification. By the way amazing video, I tried to look up other methods to try to do something like this, but apparently everyone thinks this is a "plug and play" deal. Anyways, since you seem to know your stuff, if you dont mind, let me ask you this, when it comes to high power rifles that have the scope mounts/bases pre-installed, from the factory, do they tend to be put in well? Or is it common to have to take them off, and do something like this?
Have you had any good results with 2 piece Leupold Dual Dovetail mount bases? Would you say that 1 piece bases are the best kind for the Rem 700 or would 2 piece DD work just as well? Thanks. Always appreciate your expertise.
I'll take your word. I just know it or similar are very common in people that move to Arizona. I'm from Connecticut, so I sound like a newscaster or radio host.
hey, I'm looking for a video on how to make the screw holes into my rifle. Mine doesn't have them and I don't know what I need to watch out for while doing it.
John. When I screw in the only the front screw of the Weaver base it will not seat all the way. The base rattles around some. It firms up when the second screw is installed. Should I file down the front screw so it seats all the way?
@LoneWolfUSMC A weaver picatinny one piece zero moa.Just try for yourself the next time before tightening down the screws see how much side to side play you have, there is enough to be slightly canted if not checked not a lot but enough to break the bubble on a level
i bought this mount a couple weeks ago and have been waiting on my rifle. Well i finally got the rifle yesterday and when i went to install it is when i noticed the 20 MOA can you explain to me what it is? ( i know what 20 moa is i just dont know on a mount what it means. Thank you
The question is how do you know it's not the after market base versus the receiver? Are you saying when re doing it with the rear screws would indicate the same thing with the base?
I just finish applying the jb weld and i'm now waiting for the epoxy to cure. I don't have a torque driver yet, so do I need to go get one before my epoxy cures in order to get the base to bed right or can I just hand tighten the back as much as possible and leave it at that until I can torque the base down at a later date?
You would hold a straight edge you know to be true against the top of the base. Then you would shine a light along the backside to check for straightness.
Why didn't you use the borka tool to measure the torque the first time when you were applying the epoxy? If you over torqued it then wouldn't the JB weld be spread to thin for when you torque it to spec later?
Torque is toleranced ±10% (rule of thumb), so 18-22 in-lbs is the torque range for the base screws. Neither the rule nor the tool used is all that precise, so use both cautiously.
Also what if my base has a slop and still installed at the factory, wouldn't that bend already the base from the tension of the screws? Could it still be re-used? Rifle is unfired yet.
One thing I've noticed, everyone's using the Rem. 700 action. What about the Savage Arms model 10FCP? It's amazingly accurate and the stock is full length aluminum bedded.
Forgive me if this gets posted twice. When I mic the screw holes I get 3mm (.119) inch. You mention a 1/8 in blade screwdriver in the video. I need to buy a tap that will fit. What size would I need?
Haven't had a chance to test if it holds zero, but mounts just fine and has nice clear glass. Centered vertically true to a plumb line with the crosshairs which is always a plus!It's a great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxc4K63Fd5LglDMObu7-Bgapxp_ef0W8hE scope. There's no parallax adjustment or focus ring, so may be limited to 3-7x, have to see how it is on the range. Also be aware that the rings are "look through" so you can still use irons, but they are really tall if you only intend to use the optics. On a 22LR no biggie since I'm not shooting competitions or worried about a hard cheek press. Will boresight and range test, if all goes well, I'll leave it at that!
Happened to come across this video a day before my badger ordnance 20moa base came in. I'm new to bolt guns/precision shooting this video was a great help and very informative. Thanks to this video I successfully bedded my base and without the video would have never even known it needed to be bedded. Thanks for uploading! Definitely going to check out the rest of your videos!
Just bedded my rail the other night, it was pretty simple but had a good instructional video to follow also. Thanks for taking the time to make and post this, I never even thought about doing this but after seeing the gap with my own eyes, just makes sense to correct the misalignment and properly fit everything together.
Nice video, thanks for making it. Just encountered my first base/receiver mismatch and this is precisely the information I was looking for. I use Devcon when bedding recoil lugs/tangs and like to use cardboard for mixing so you have an exact sample of the batch used in the project. You know the status of the epoxy at all times without guessing. Thanks again!
Thank you for a great videshow sir.I now have the confidence to attempt bedding my 700's stock rail if needed. Getting ready to install my scope . Going to remove the stock Remington rail and check for gap or daylight. I want a solid foundation ! Thanks again for the education!
Excellent job bedding the base. To my surprise, my Badger base needed bedding as well. Im very glad I did so in the manner you did. Thank you for the video, John.
I purchased a Rem 700 308 tactical and I am awaiting my Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50, I am also waiting for my Bell and Carlson Medalist A5. When I get my scope and rail mount I can check to see if I need any bedding and will have the knowledge to do the job!! Thx for your effort!!!
Thanks for the quick reply. I wish I had done this with my base. You have a great informative website as well. Thanks to your vids, I have started reloading my own ammo for about a year now. Excellent work, Devildog!
Former Corporal of Marines - A 1/3 - Out.
I really want to thank you again for these videos! I actually watched them while I installed the Picatinny rail, Scope Rings and Scope! It was really so much easier with you more or less talking me through the process. =) Time to hit the range!
Great Vid, went ahead and did all of my R700's. Even found a gap under my Leupold M4 1 piece base, although it was not as prominent as other bases it was still there. You can really tell after you bed it and see how much space the bedding material fills. I use Kiwi neutral shoe polish and Devcon 10110 for all of my bedding. As for masking tape, it is .004" thick and will introduce an air gap; which is what we are trying to remove.
Great series for people that are on a budget. Your vids have been VERY helpful in building my first precision rifle. BTW its a Remington 700 just like this one.
Thanks!!!
Followed this process and it worked perfectly. Used silly putty in place of playdough. Thanks for the video.
OUTSTANDING!!! I doing a little different and use different products but we both achieve the same end game. I hope your weapon system is producing what you desire out of it. Stay at the ready, it's coming. Semper Fi.
Great video. Followed this one on my new Remington 700 AAC-SD today. Worked perfectly and the install looks great. Thanks for posting this one.
Which model did you use for your aac-sd?
russell herrera rail that is.
I did this yesterday by following your video to the letter. It was a quite easy job once i`ve seen the video a few times and i got a good result :)
Thanks for posting this video :)
Just completed the bedding on my new scope base . . . ready to install the scope in a few hours!
I performed this type bedding job on the rear first and then moved to the front just lightly tightened the screws (opposite of epoxy screws) during cure. I pushed wax into the taps instead of play doe as it is a lot easier clean up. After it fully cured (gave it a few days but did remove and clean up after about 5 hours). Then I also bedded the front including the lug using the same style. The mount is ROCK SOLID on there now with absolute 100% flat contact. I also did a custom bed job on the rings. Anyway she shot 5 shot sub MOA at 200 meters with factory ammo.
8541 Tactical, great job and thanks for doing the hard work to pull this together... I just bought a 700 Varmit and was looking for exactly this type of video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow... and I thought it would be as simple as taking it out of the box and just screwing it on. But for precise accuracy, attentive to detail is required. Thank you.
Really enjoyed the 700 AAC SD build. I've done something similar, although I started before I saw the series. Mine has the same scope, a Precision Armament brake, the fully adjustable B&C stock, a Timney 510 trigger, a Wyatt detachable mag system, and a Harris bipod. A few weeks ago, after zeroing it in at 200 yards, and letting it cool for a few minutes, I drilled a 1//2" bull's eye at that distance. Group size for 5 rounds was 1-1/4" or about 5/8 MOA. Pretty please with that.
Thank you! I'm getting ready to do just this on my brand new 700P that I'm picking up tuesday!
I've been waiting almost a year for remington to put the lefty 700 in .308 in production, i just got one a few days ago. Look on buds guns!
I obtained a Remington 700 308 after my dad passed away. It has the same stock, 20 inch barrel but the barrel is fluted and threaded. Barrel markings say Lt Tactical. I haven’t found this exact setup in any video or information on line. Great shooting gun but I’m gonna change the stock and trigger.
So im worried about jb weld getting into the screw holes. How did that playdough hold up? how did you get that out of the base holes?
Tried this and used floor wax. I waited exactly 5 hours @ 68-70 deg f but the JB Weld was no where near cured when I took it apart and half stuck to the rifle. Going to get some fresh JB and try again.
Thanks for a great instructional video on this- some of the tips are very helpful for epoxy bedding a base.
Thanks John great video. I'm about to do the same on my new Remington 700 and the weaver 20moa rail so this is a great help!
I used this method when I set up my rifle. Worked great!
Great video. Worked almost perfect. However the next time I do this I will put a little bit of Play Doh in the base holes as well. Kind of had a hard time getting the J.B Weld out of those once it dried. But I really love all your Remington 700 videos. I couldn't be happier with my rifle now. And that's all thanks to you 8541 TAC. Do you have a video on installing an after market trigger. I just ordered a Timney Elite Trigger because I still have the X-PRO piece of garbage in mine and I would love to see a video on after market trigger installs. Thanks again 8541. Your awesome.
You are guessing you needed to bed the back end of the scope mount. What you need is a Machinists Straight Edge. First check the top of the picatinny mount with the straight edge to see if in fact its flat. Aluminum tends to warp during high speed machining. Go ahead, and install the scope mount as per the instructions. Then using the straight edge across the picatinny's scope ring mounting surface check for any air gap (light) . This way you'll know for a fact witch end to bed.
Yes Lapping the rings does align the bores in between the scope rings but if you have align-able scope rings like Leupold or other types you use the two aligning rods and get the rings aligned then lap them until it shows even contact over the majority of the rings.
@wbarnette1 I personally find a 1 piece base offers 2 main advantages. 1: more flexability in where you place your scope, allowing proper eye relief for your preferred cheek weld. 2: less chance you'll need to lap your rings.
To anyone watching this video, after removing the base and drilling the excess JB weld out of the screw holes, put the base back on with the front two screws and wait al least 12 hours to make sure the JB weld is fully cured. If you don't you could ruin all the work you just did by smashing the uncured compound out.
Yes, that is correct. After the four hours and hand drill bit removal of JB Weld in rear base holes, the JB Weld would ideally need more time to completely cure (rather than torque down right away as shown in video). This way you are playing it safe that your bed job doesn’t get slightly compromised.
Great video, just knocked out my 700 LA using Brownells Steel Bed. Using Burris Zee Weaver Sig for rings so lapping wasnt a issue. However since the rear of the receiver sits lower it was sacrificing scope elevation. One problem I ran into was my cheap torque wrench. I like that one you got, is that the one on brownells? Thanks again for the Vid
Thanks. I will check the local gun store for a shorter one tomorrow and if they don't have one I will attempt to file. Thanks for the help.
Great build, may do this myself some day!
I think I've seen all of the series. I was just wondering if you kept a record of all the groups, or if you know a ballpark average 5 shot group size at 100 yards. Thanks, this was an awesome series so far.
@LoneWolfUSMC I am referring to a cant in the scope base, the base mounting holes are slightly larger diameter than the mounting screws and this allows lateral movement and this movement can cause the base to be tilted on one side or the other if not leveled before tightening the screws down. You have to make sure the receiver is level and then level the base onto the receiver.
this is a well done 'how to'. I'm looking to put a weaver system on my remington 700, but i notice that they make this available as a two-piece weaver mount. Would seem to make things simpler, but can't help feel there may be a major con to it. Any advice regarding a two-piece weaver system instead?
Thanks for the video, I just used this method to bed some bases.
Thanks for the bedding tutorial! Helped greatly.
I will say this, I did have problems with the wax method. I ended up having to clean the first attempt off and starting over. Not a big deal. The 2nd attempt, I used wax paper. Didn't have to put anything in the screw holes. This morning, I pulled the rail off, took my dremel tool with a drill bit and cleaned the holes out on the rail. Will mount later!
@LoneWolfUSMC
Thats not what I meant. The base holes are slightly larger than the screw diameter so you can actually move the mount from side to side slightly. This could result in the base being slightly canted. The base will self center lengthwise because of the mating surface with the barrel.
@LoneWolfUSMC Didnt you put playdoh in the rear receiver holes though?
I know the screws are small and probably somewhat fragile, so I wasnt sure when you tightened them down, if a small amount of JB weld got on the mount and wasnt removed, if it could damage the screw when they get torqued.
I'm just curious why you didn't recommend a 1 piece scope mount such as the Dead Nutz mounts It's similar to the $300 Night Force mount but is only $70
Nice video. What was the brand of the torque wrench that you used? Thanks.
This is a great tutorial. Thanks.
May I ask you where you got that nifty torque wrench at? Seems very useful for an upcoming project I have in mind. Thank you
What "extended" range capabilities are given with the 20 MOA scope base rather than if I just use a 0 MOA or 15 MOA scope base? Probably a stupid question. Thanks! Getting that gun in a couple weeks!
Very informative. Would it be beneficial to go and bed the front after doing the back?
Hey, Lone Wolf, thanks for the vids. What about shims to bed the rail? I'm sure they sell them in varying thicknesses. It seems it would be a little safer than JBWeld. Just a thought. Thanks again.
You forgot to mention making sure the action is level and the base mounted level to the receiver. It is possible to mount the base tilted if not. I found out the hard way. Had to remove JB weld and start over.
Not a bad idea. But the only person I know with a good scope is in Cuba... The epoxy on my bedding job is curing right now. It looked simple enough and I have already done pillar and epoxy bedding in my stock to great success, so I went ahead and did it regardless. Hopefully, this cures my ills. Thanks for the feedback.
John,
Thank you for your HARD WORK on these well done videos.
I hope I am not to far off subject matter for this question. I have a few questions about scope rings/one piece bases:
I have an AR clone in 5.56, 16 inch barrel, I want to install a scope (1.25-4x20), adjustment elevation and windage 90MOA, the choice of one piece mount is available in 0 MOA or 20MOA. I would not expect to shoot more than 300 yards.
Which base do you recommend, 0 or 20 MOA?
Thanks again for your hard work.
hey man im new to precision rifles and ive heard good things about this rifle problem is i dont know crap what would be a good way to start. thanks Dan
My Remington 700 actually came with a pair of weaver style rails to hold the mystery scope it came with. I've settled on the Bushnell Elite 3200 10x40mm (found an awesome deal even better than the Millett I found!) Would it be difficult to perhaps swap them out for a full length rail as shown in the video?
Nice vid,thanks for putting this up. What torque wrench is that? Where can I buy one?
I plan on building a 700. I'm going to order a action and recoil lug off of brownells and get a Harts barrel. Im not too sure what work needs to be done to it. Harts says if I send my action to them, they will do the chambering, threading, fitting, and squaring for $700 (includes cost of barrel itself). Is this all that needs to be done or is there more to it? Semper Fi fellow devil dog.
I have this same rifle on order and I want to purchase that very same Weaver picatinny base you mounted in this video. Just a couple questions. This M700 AAC (.308) is a Short Action, right? Also would you recommend getting the 20 MOA version of this Weaver picatinny base or the regular [flat/parallel] version? I plan to use no smaller than a 50mm lens size scope (not sure if that matters). Thanks for all the info and tutorial, great videos!
Great vid, very informative, too funny , I've got the same rifle and Weavers SA Picatinny Rail. Question, do you thing lapping the rings would fix the issue or was the gap simply too large and the lapping would have removed too much material from the rings?
Good job. Had an unofficial conversation w a supervisor of a MAJOR US scope manufacturer recently. During this, he mentioned most of their scope tech use JBWeld to bed their mounts due to such variance between any given receiver and scope mount mating surfaces causing wiggle to make it all come loose eventually. A simple fix to a simple problem. And they all use 25inch pounds. Where did you find that little torque tool/wrench? Kinda handy. Thx.
so why wouldnt you just go ahead and bed the front just to make sure its perfect. Sorry if its redundant but I'm very new to this and buying a 700P very soon. Just trying to find the right price on one. Thanks for any input
Nice video, very interesting since I just got an SPS Tactical last week. Dumb question...how did you get the Play-Doh out of the screw hole? Just let it dry and pop it out?
I do the same on my older model Savage flat rear base, good video
I've been watching ur budget build the problume for me is the remington 700 u keep talking about is only for right hand shooters, and i happen to be a lefty looking for a good rifle to start that is in left hand confg that would make for a great budget build platform
Haven't done this yet. Mounted a cope on savage 10TR but I haven't checked the base if it's snug and tight as there are sing factory-installed bases with aren't degreased and loosely screwed.
In your vid, wouldn't it tilt the base further downwards if only putting front screws during bedding?
Lonewolf, I see in another video where a guy grinded and made rough the bottom of the scope mount to help the epoxy adhere to the mount. Is this an extra step to provide a better bond or not necessary at all?
I just got a millet for my R700p. I am trying to mount my 20 MOA millet picatinny rail, but the mounting screws aren't long enough. Any ideas as to a good size to get before I buy all the #6-48 with different lengths in the store? Semper Fi
G'day mate enjoy your vids very educational for a newbie to the art of shooting.
This will probably be a dumb question and probably cause myself to bang my head on the wall for its stupidity, but what weaver base did you use the LA or SA?
The brain says SA, however i was wondering is there a difference between LA and SA?
many thanks
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How long should you wait until you run the drill bit by hand through the screw holes? Also, should you re-tighten the front screws after you hand drill the holes to allow the JB weld to finish curing?
Thanks, I appreciate your response. Keep up the good work you've been very helpful.
Everything you said is what I was thinking. It's just piece of mind knowing I could switch the base if I ever upgraded my rifle and didn't sell the old one.
By the way, this precision rifle you made, what kind of groups is it shooting now? Have you given it hand loads yet? Thank you.
When your bedding that mount, shouldnt you put playdoh on the screw holes in the mount too?
Funny I'm looking at the same rail for that gun.
Should I get it with the 20MOA or 0. I plan on shooting at long distance with it eventually. This is a bit confusing for me, will the 20MOA in the rail screw me at closer distances like say zeroing at 100 meters? I'm going with a Nikon 8408. And my bad if this doesn't make sense I'm new to this.
@LoneWolfUSMC thanks. btw i have a remington 700 sps chambered in 30-06. so im guessing i need the LA right?
Also, when you applied the JB weld to the scope base, how did you open the mounting holes back up on it? Were you able to just stick the bit through to make those holes? They had been covered up when you set the base.
@LoneWolfUSMC Thanks for the clarification. By the way amazing video, I tried to look up other methods to try to do something like this, but apparently everyone thinks this is a "plug and play" deal.
Anyways, since you seem to know your stuff, if you dont mind, let me ask you this, when it comes to high power rifles that have the scope mounts/bases pre-installed, from the factory, do they tend to be put in well? Or is it common to have to take them off, and do something like this?
Have you had any good results with 2 piece Leupold Dual Dovetail mount bases? Would you say that 1 piece bases are the best kind for the Rem 700 or would 2 piece DD work just as well? Thanks. Always appreciate your expertise.
I'm new to long range shooting, can you elaborate on why it "takes more effort to make sure they are true and not canting your rings." Thanks.
You sound like Owen Willson
Haha, yeah. Northern-midwest accent.
spraynpray That is definitely not Northern-Midwest -I would know. It's more like Oklahoma or Nebraska.
I'll take your word. I just know it or similar are very common in people that move to Arizona. I'm from Connecticut, so I sound like a newscaster or radio host.
LOL Yeah
Got it, that makes sense. I just figured the bend might not be enough to cause a problem.
To loctite or not to loctite those bedding (action) screws? That is the question..
Just curious, why didn't you put clay in the screw holes of the mount itself, wouldn't the JB Weld seep into it? Thanks for your help.
hey, I'm looking for a video on how to make the screw holes into my rifle. Mine doesn't have them and I don't know what I need to watch out for while doing it.
John. When I screw in the only the front screw of the Weaver base it will not seat all the way. The base rattles around some. It firms up when the second screw is installed. Should I file down the front screw so it seats all the way?
Id love a link or more info about your torque wrench please.
@LoneWolfUSMC A weaver picatinny one piece zero moa.Just try for yourself the next time before tightening down the screws see how much side to side play you have, there is enough to be slightly canted if not checked not a lot but enough to break the bubble on a level
i bought this mount a couple weeks ago and have been waiting on my rifle. Well i finally got the rifle yesterday and when i went to install it is when i noticed the 20 MOA can you explain to me what it is? ( i know what 20 moa is i just dont know on a mount what it means. Thank you
The question is how do you know it's not the after market base versus the receiver? Are you saying when re doing it with the rear screws would indicate the same thing with the base?
I just finish applying the jb weld and i'm now waiting for the epoxy to cure. I don't have a torque driver yet, so do I need to go get one before my epoxy cures in order to get the base to bed right or can I just hand tighten the back as much as possible and leave it at that until I can torque the base down at a later date?
Great video. Very informative. I have one question. How do you know if the base is true to begin with?
You would hold a straight edge you know to be true against the top of the base. Then you would shine a light along the backside to check for straightness.
LoneWolf or any subs...Can you use Imperial wax for glass bedding if Kiwi neutral isn't available
If the base is meant to be mated to that particular rifle for life should you use red or blue locktite on the screws?
I am needing to do this. No Loctite on the new screws?
Why didn't you use the borka tool to measure the torque the first time when you were applying the epoxy? If you over torqued it then wouldn't the JB weld be spread to thin for when you torque it to spec later?
Torque is toleranced ±10% (rule of thumb), so 18-22 in-lbs is the torque range for the base screws. Neither the rule nor the tool used is all that precise, so use both cautiously.
Great video. Nice job.
Also what if my base has a slop and still installed at the factory, wouldn't that bend already the base from the tension of the screws? Could it still be re-used? Rifle is unfired yet.
One thing I've noticed, everyone's using the Rem. 700 action. What about the Savage Arms model 10FCP? It's amazingly accurate and the stock is full length aluminum bedded.
Forgive me if this gets posted twice. When I mic the screw holes I get 3mm (.119) inch. You mention a 1/8 in blade screwdriver in the video. I need to buy a tap that will fit. What size would I need?