Great video Jan! I'm just about to recap my A1000. I used to do repairs as side hustle at my local Commodore dealer three nights a week. He loved it because I had a TV repair background so he was the only one for hundreds of miles that could repair monitors too. I got to repair all the Atari, Commodore and {Blech} IBM clones. Fun times. You've inspired me to pull out my soldering irons and get to work.
33:00 .. @Jan Beta.. a very very easy way to reduce the speed /noise of a fan ..... is put 2 or 3 diodes.. in serie (one behind the other)... in the 12V+ yellow positive line ... each diode reduces around 1 Volt depending of the amp consumption of the fan .... then you can "hide" them with a shrink tube
Wow, I don't think I've ever seen much about the Amiga 1000 much less the inside of one so that's already great. I will have to add these techniques to restore the broken plastics on stuff which clearly are not entirely a lost cause now, good as always to see unique repairs, keep it up Jan!
I simply cleaned and lubricated the old fan and now it works like a new one. And it’s very silent, that old thing was very well build. Now my one is now 36 years old and I can’t hear it after the small revision. But I used that Noctura fan for my A4000 THAT is a big difference, now it’s silent and has a much better airflow.
I actually love the new style of this video. The introduction as you speak directly to the camera, very Adrian Blackish, and obviously cool, though. Also the outro seeing you playing in the background. Keep going, you make amazing content. Kudos from a fellow compatriot 👌
Fantastic outcome of a truly classic computer restored to its former glory. I look forward to your videos about these Commodore computers. i never had any real contact with this brand back in the day when I was learning computer technology. Great to get your take on these awesome devices.
I bought an A 1000 used, back in the day when my A 500 mobo had to be sent away for repair. I had some kind of upgrade which allowed Kickstart to be installed and memory expansion. That open front was appalling, great that you got the cover. Great video!
I am in the midst of restoring two C64s ('83 and '84), a Vic-20('82) an Amiga 500 ('90) and a Mitsubischi ML-F48 ('86) MSX computer. In essence, all the machines I used during my child- and young adulthood. It never even occurred to me to sell them. They've been lying in boxes for over 30 years. With the exception of the VIC-20, I salvaged that one from a dumpster around 2006.
Only half-way through the video but I wanted to commend you on the fan mount, very nicely done and how I would have done it myself - you will thank yourself in the future if the unit needs opening up again, as having that cable unplug-able will save you some headache if the PSU or the fan dies. One trick I always do with PC fans for cable management is to wrap the cable around the fan housing as the friction fit will stop it from coming loose or shaking about enough to create noise from vibration while also leaving you with ample room to access the other surrounding components.
I recently put it in the lab, had one in my room as a kid so I thought it would add to the nostalgia. I think probably IKEA introduced them over here back in the day, pretty common now. :)
Fitting one of those silent fans is a much better idea than trying to fix the old one, what was I thinking! :D I have already visited the Noctua site for myself. The case is looking very good now. Also, nice view from your window too. Looking forward to next instalment. Cheers.
Hi Jan! I'm just finishing watching your video tonight. Good to see that you're doing well. I get so happy whenever you post a video and I see your little intro with the music and oscilloscope! I know there will be a cool video to watch. Keep up the good work!
Great video! what a fun computer for that time period. The 3D printed MM cover was fantastic!! Thanks for a doing this! Very much enjoyed it and it brought back many good memories.
As for possible upgrades: well, there are some solutions for the Amiga 500 which would work with the 1000 as well. I think this machine definitely still needs more RAM. 512k Chip is definitely not enough ;)
@@kevb8983 You can use a modified Kickstart which adds the memory. It will be from $80000 and upwards (although it will (obviously) not be chipmem). It should'nt be hard to locate the information on the Internet about the piggybacking hack these days. A very good and reliable upgrade (if done correctly) which I personally used for several years with zero issues.
Thanks again for a great video Jan, hope you can retrobrite that really amazing Amiga keyboard, upgrade the RAM and I'm looking forward to seeing the front panel being painted. Amiga forever!
Don't know how much of a good idea it is to put a 12vline running past a mains portion of the board. But regardless of that, excellent restore and mod Jan. Keep it up!!
What a wonderful and thorough restoration, Jan! Truly it looks fantastic now! Consider the Classic 520 card for this beautiful machine. I love mine! I have it flashed with Kickstart 3.1.4, it has a 28 MHz 68020 and 8 MB of RAM... A perfect upgrade. If only we could easily do something about the CHIP RAM...
Hi Jan - Great informative A1000 restoration video. A question if I may. My old A1000 has developed vertical stripes on the Workbench background, Kickstart request screen is OK. I'm using composite output as I no longer have an original RGB monitor. I figure the problem may be with the video out circuitry, I have reseated the Daphne chip and can see no obvious problems with the circuit board components, including obvious blown caps. If you have any hints as to where to specifically look for this vertical output stripe problem it would be much appreciated.
looking forward for Part 3 My 1000 is missing the side cover I was thinking that a 3D printed one would be a good option. That front cover looks great can't wait to see how it looks painted.
you can also make an acetone and plastic "slurry". put some plastic off-casts into a bottle with some acetone. it will have some extra structural properties when you need to glue/fill.
The original Papst hand balanced steel ones where actualy realy expensive, i think i was like 90$ or so, so it should be more than 100$ today i think for the larger models if one bought them separatly.
Actually there are RAM chips from two different manufacturers Hitachi and NEC. The NECs are from 1986 week 25, also 3 of the Hitachi, but one from week 23. The NECs seem all to be replaced, but as the production time suggests this was done at the factory. The 68000 CPU is from Thomson.
Hab auch dein 2. Video wieder gern geschaut. Mein Retrobright Versuch mit der Rückwand vom 1000er ist leider nicht so gleichmäßig geworden (leichter Marmor-Effekt). Für der Amiga 500 gedacht, läuft die ACA500plus richtig gut an meinem Rechner, jetzt sogar mit Kickstart 3.1 und 8MB Fastram
Replaced the fan I see ! Thought you were going to oil the old one. How much money were they ? Nice clean repair ! By the way I'm always amazed by people that speak more than one language and your English is good. Thanks for showing your work for the most part ,as most repair videos show nothing !
Noctua sells several different versions of the same fan depending on what kind of noise profile you want.. Might have been better to get the NF-A8 ULN or NF-R8 Redux 1200. The 2200rpm PWM fans are designed to run with thermal management so they normally would not at 100% duty cycle. Most computer systems would run them about 500-600rpm. Edit: Whoops commented too soon, you did go and get the ULN version haha. Nice.
Jan, would really like to know what paint codes / mix you come up with. I have the same 3D printed thing on my A1000 for that and the side expansion trap door but they need a color match.
Rather a late reply, but if you still need an answer, you can get color match apps for your cell phone from most major paint suppliers. You have to make SURE you do a proper White Balance (most camera apps have this, just search here on YT on how for your phone). Also there are apps not related to paint companies that will give your the RGB and / or the CMYK values you can then take to a paint store and they can match. Here in the US it's free in most paint stores. Be SURE to do the White Balance FIRST or it will be off.
You get extra credit for pronouncing "Aluminum" correctly 1:12:33 , Unlike our British friends. :) But seriously another great video! Looking forward to part 3.
That was a fun one! Manual 3D printing and a lounge full of compressed Jan 🤣. Btw I think there are models of theses eject buttons for 3D printing a repair adapter and the whole button too. I think gadgeduk164 mentioned them in one of his floppy repair videos some while ago.
Funny, my 1000 had a square latching push button for power instead of a toggle which blended into the side of the case better. The only models of Amiga that I haven't owned are the 1200, 2000 and the 3000. The were great computers for their time. I had a 500, 1000, & 4000-030. I seem to remember my 1000 having a memory expansion box on the side port too. It held an extra 512k in addition to the 128 on the front and internally. I believe it was the first zorro connector though I could be mistaken. The zorro II slot didn't happen until the 1200 I think.
The thing to remember about PC fans is that the side where the fan is attached to the frame is always the output side. Also, I always like how the 3-pin fan cables are coloured like the German flag lol.
You can make ABS filler with Acetone and ABS filament. Just keep adding ABS to Acetone till you get it to the consistency you want. That is also how you would make the glue. There's probably YT videos on it for 3D printing.
IIRC the side port is larger to accommodate the signals from/to the CPU (practically the same connector as on the A500 only flipped), whereas the front connector is just for a RAM expansion card. retrocomputing.stackexchange.com/questions/5410/was-the-amiga-1000s-front-expansion-port-capable-of-anything-other-than-the-256
Nicely done, I really like the low noise fan. Almost as silent as an A 500 😎 What irritates me is the orientation of the ICs on board. All chips head south, but the CPU is oriented north (relative board orientation) - a bit unusual. I would certainly always fear that I've inserted it the wrong way around 🤔 Before I forget it: Regarding the credit card: LMAO 🤣
I'm not a material scientist, but from my limited understanding, you can't just "add moisture" to make the plastic less brittle. The brittleness is due to chemical changes. Reversing those chemical changes isn't as simple as just adding water. Just like how you can't grind up concrete and add water to get new concrete mix.
I heard about putting plastic parts into water and heating to make it more elastic again. I have no idea if that is actually a thing, doesn’t make much sense to me either. Lots of misinformation out there I suppose.
A got a broken LG DVD-writer/VHS-combo thing that had a similar error in the power supply - one of the resistors in the PSU had just barely missed it's through hole... I'm guessing in the factory it still just barely made contact with the solder but got bumped at some point and the whole unit died. Another unit of the same model had too much solder on the HDMI port, bridging some pins so that output never worked. Doesn't speak well for LG's QA, but it was great value for me :D
Great work Jan. Why haven't you used the silent NF-A8 ULN as you did before with the A2000 powersupply ? The NF-A8 PWM you used here moves a bit more air, but i think the NF-A8 ULN is still fine enough for the A1000 power supply and it's silent as you know.
Jan; install a rubber dampening membrane obtainable from the notorious sources...Great for reducing vibration noise along with rubber style 'screws" ...-Mark.
Nice job there :) That CPU is indeed a Thomson, but it's an 8 at the end and not a B, maybe that's why you didn't find much info on it... They also did purple/gold ceramic (EF68000C8, EF68000CM10) versions and a square (TS68000CR12) version too :)
Lithium is the way to go for all the sliding, levers, and bearings. Oil the way to go for all rotating shafts. Personally I use more modern synthetic replacements most times but on this I'd use lithium. For the drive shaft (rotating) I use oil to REMOVE the old grease, run it a bit and clean dry it then re-grease. Source: Me. Was factory trained in floppy repair back in the day ... ;-)
@@blackterminal Well, that depends on what you mean by automotive grease ... Certainly not wheel bearing grease which is designed for high temps and huge loads. Just a normal white lithium grease available in any home improvement or auto store, or, of course, Amazon ... :-)
Ha ha back in the day I used to operate VCD axial sequencer machines and they would often need calibrating during the sequence as they began inserting components slightly offset. Ah memories...
Very nice work. Well done! I have a couple of questions. 1-Can a built in Kickstart 1.3 rom be installed inside this A1000? 2-Can the 0.5 mb ram be increased to 1.0 by modifying the front memory cartridge? If these are possible, i would like the see these upgrades in the part 3 :)
1. There are ways of adding an A500 Kickstart ROM to an A1000 but adapters boards are required. 2. The front slot only takes 256K. I have a board called an IN1000 in my A1000 that plugs into the CPU socket and adds 1.5MB fast RAM using 48 256Kx1 RAM chips. xtra RAM can also be added using modules that plug into the side expansion slot. I have a SCSI controller + 512K module with a little light that indicates RAM access.
For quick testing like in this case, I use one of the cheap Flylink SCART to HDMI upscalers. For more serious stuff (streaming, gaming etc) I use an OSSC which is awesome.
@@JanBeta must look into that.... this video opened my apetite to play with my st and I'm atm retrobrighting it in the sun :)). it is turning great. also my 400v condenser of the psu needs replacement. its getting rounded at the top. its not suposed right?
18:26 You had empty solder points (pads) with GND and +12V just below power connector!!! 37:00 Yes, it is made by Thomson-CSF. Later versions were marked TS68000 (SGS-Thomson, now ST).
Die Reparatur von den C16 Computern hab ich spannend verfolgt. Ich weiß zwar das der Amiga in einer anderen Liga spielt, doch wird mir schwindelig wenn ich das board nur ansehe. Da sind ja so viele Chips drauf, ich würde gar nicht wissen wo ich mit der Arbeit beginnen soll.
I think there are also others "missing". They would typically provide lots of decouping on the design and then maybe drop a few of the unneeded ones away from the BOM to reduce manufacturings costs by a cent or two.
ADDENDUM You know that Plastic welding glue? Have you tried sourcing donor plastic that you can file down with a very smooth file, so that instead of Baking soda you use that plastic welding glue and the plastic filings or powder to build up chipped off plastic, Fill up unwanted Holes and even fill in cracks? Also there are some cheap plastic welding and resurfacing kits that can copy textures down to smooth surfaces..
Awsome video as always! I honestly must agree with those fans, from a tecnicaly point of wiew they are great quality fans but they realy are incredibly load and enerving in the long run...
Some of those industrial quality metal fans are in fact much quiter then modern plastic ones (i still use a few on my cooling system), but later, plastic ones from Commodore machines i hawe used was not exactly quite...
Actually, Jan, there is a NF-R8 redux-1200 fan out there, that is even quieter and its in a nice grey so it suits the general styling better... Also it has even slightly more airflow. (waits for next fan replacement video) :P
@@JanBeta I always check at Noctua's own website. There you can nicely compare all the stats for the fans. and then I look where I get the one I want for the lowest money. Usually Amazon anyway...
I don't think it would really make a difference, but I think the intention is to make sure the brown bushings on the fan are the only thing in contact with the power supply. They look like rubber isolations, so the fan should "float" free. Adding a few washers to leave a tiny gap? The idea would be to isolate the fan and stop vibrations from being amplified by what it's attached to... or they're just cosmetic and make no difference ;-)
Yeah, the screw should have had a larger washer so that it contacts the soft rubber and not the hard plastic case but in this case I don't think it makes much difference. Of course the idea is to not propagate any vibrations from the fan to the rest of the case to make noise somewhere else than the moving fan. It can really make a difference when mounting spinning hard drives into cases. Even more with optical drives that can make the whole case BURRRR at some nice harmonic frequency.
You're both right but the best solution is from Noctura themselves. All those fans come with rubber mounts that push through the holes and pull the fan tight with nothing but rubber touching any of it. They're probably a bit of a tight fit to the existing screw holes on the PS but nothing to a pair of nippers in the hands of a guy who makes his own plastic with superglue and baking soda ... It's funny because just last night I just caught one of my cats with one she swiped from a table. Not that they EVER get on my tables ... while I'm in the room at least.
Great video Jan! I'm just about to recap my A1000. I used to do repairs as side hustle at my local Commodore dealer three nights a week. He loved it because I had a TV repair background so he was the only one for hundreds of miles that could repair monitors too. I got to repair all the Atari, Commodore and {Blech} IBM clones. Fun times. You've inspired me to pull out my soldering irons and get to work.
Jan posts video.
Me: An hour and a half!
Checks clock: 11:30pm
Me: Worth it.
I was watching random asmr and stumbled on your channel, new subscriber!!! Very relaxing to watch
Not into ASMR at all but also noticed how this new series of Jan long videos is really relaxing.
Fantastic job Jan!! Love the 3D printed piece that Dennis produced too!
Thanks Chris! Yes, the 3d printed part is stunning. I just hope i don’t ruin it when I paint it... :D
33:00 .. @Jan Beta.. a very very easy way to reduce the speed /noise of a fan ..... is put 2 or 3 diodes.. in serie (one behind the other)... in the 12V+ yellow positive line ... each diode reduces around 1 Volt depending of the amp consumption of the fan .... then you can "hide" them with a shrink tube
You can almost hear a little voice from the capacitor going..... Finally, my destiny has been realized!! 🤣
Great video!!!
Wow, I don't think I've ever seen much about the Amiga 1000 much less the inside of one so that's already great. I will have to add these techniques to restore the broken plastics on stuff which clearly are not entirely a lost cause now, good as always to see unique repairs, keep it up Jan!
I simply cleaned and lubricated the old fan and now it works like a new one. And it’s very silent, that old thing was very well build. Now my one is now 36 years old and I can’t hear it after the small revision. But I used that Noctura fan for my A4000 THAT is a big difference, now it’s silent and has a much better airflow.
OK I used the Noctua NF-A8 FLX in my A4000 power supply because its not PWM controlled :-)
I actually love the new style of this video. The introduction as you speak directly to the camera, very Adrian Blackish, and obviously cool, though. Also the outro seeing you playing in the background. Keep going, you make amazing content. Kudos from a fellow compatriot 👌
Fantastic outcome of a truly classic computer restored to its former glory. I look forward to your videos about these Commodore computers. i never had any real contact with this brand back in the day when I was learning computer technology. Great to get your take on these awesome devices.
Me too xD. @David Parker you can also check out The 8 Bit guy, he has a nice documentary about Commodore and also a ton of restoration videos.
I bought an A 1000 used, back in the day when my A 500 mobo had to be sent away for repair. I had some kind of upgrade which allowed Kickstart to be installed and memory expansion.
That open front was appalling, great that you got the cover. Great video!
I am in the midst of restoring two C64s ('83 and '84), a Vic-20('82) an Amiga 500 ('90) and a Mitsubischi ML-F48 ('86) MSX computer. In essence, all the machines I used during my child- and young adulthood. It never even occurred to me to sell them. They've been lying in boxes for over 30 years.
With the exception of the VIC-20, I salvaged that one from a dumpster around 2006.
Wow, what a ride this video has been! That 3D printed front cover is a nice touch. Now you just need on for the expansion slot on the right.
It's standard practice to take a 12V "low noise" fan and run it at 5V for ultra low noise.
I miss my Amiga 1000. Great watching you get this one restored.
The baking soda and superglue trick seems pretty cool for such repairs.
I hope part 3 will still be happening. Just watched the first two parts and looking forward to the finale.
I love the noctura fan upgrade in my A2000 and a4000. So quiet. Absolutely the first thing you should do after you get your Amiga up and running.
That baking soda and glue combination trick is really impressing!
Yes! It feels like a new superpower. :)
Great Restoration Series. Really enjoying it :)
Only half-way through the video but I wanted to commend you on the fan mount, very nicely done and how I would have done it myself - you will thank yourself in the future if the unit needs opening up again, as having that cable unplug-able will save you some headache if the PSU or the fan dies. One trick I always do with PC fans for cable management is to wrap the cable around the fan housing as the friction fit will stop it from coming loose or shaking about enough to create noise from vibration while also leaving you with ample room to access the other surrounding components.
This is just about perfect to start off the weekend.
Thank you! 😊
Love the rug (that you sat on when you were retrobriting) - those are very common in norway also (but I've never seen them anywhere else).
I recently put it in the lab, had one in my room as a kid so I thought it would add to the nostalgia. I think probably IKEA introduced them over here back in the day, pretty common now. :)
Fitting one of those silent fans is a much better idea than trying to fix the old one, what was I thinking! :D I have already visited the Noctua site for myself. The case is looking very good now. Also, nice view from your window too. Looking forward to next instalment. Cheers.
24:28 Heavy metal fan--- what a missed opportunity for a pun.
Hi Jan! I'm just finishing watching your video tonight. Good to see that you're doing well. I get so happy whenever you post a video and I see your little intro with the music and oscilloscope! I know there will be a cool video to watch. Keep up the good work!
Great video! what a fun computer for that time period. The 3D printed MM cover was fantastic!! Thanks for a doing this! Very much enjoyed it and it brought back many good memories.
Nicely done. I can't wait to see how this old girl turns out!
Loving this - can't wait for next episode.
Coming soon! Things got delayed a bit but I'm working on the next part of this adventure.
I like watching these videos. I had an Amiga 1000 back when, but I have no desire to own one now.
As for possible upgrades: well, there are some solutions for the Amiga 500 which would work with the 1000 as well. I think this machine definitely still needs more RAM. 512k Chip is definitely not enough ;)
@@kevb8983 You can use a modified Kickstart which adds the memory. It will be from $80000 and upwards (although it will (obviously) not be chipmem). It should'nt be hard to locate the information on the Internet about the piggybacking hack these days. A very good and reliable upgrade (if done correctly) which I personally used for several years with zero issues.
Thanks again for a great video Jan, hope you can retrobrite that really amazing Amiga keyboard, upgrade the RAM and I'm looking forward to seeing the front panel being painted. Amiga forever!
Very good work Jan! I just enjoyed my self for 2 1/2 hours ep1+2 in a row! I will wait for the next episode!!!
Don't know how much of a good idea it is to put a 12vline running past a mains portion of the board. But regardless of that, excellent restore and mod Jan. Keep it up!!
What a wonderful and thorough restoration, Jan! Truly it looks fantastic now!
Consider the Classic 520 card for this beautiful machine. I love mine! I have it flashed with Kickstart 3.1.4, it has a 28 MHz 68020 and 8 MB of RAM... A perfect upgrade. If only we could easily do something about the CHIP RAM...
Beautiful. I am looking forward to see the finished machine in the next Episode.
Wow.... beautiful work, dedication right there!!!
Hi Jan - Great informative A1000 restoration video. A question if I may. My old A1000 has developed vertical stripes on the Workbench background, Kickstart request screen is OK. I'm using composite output as I no longer have an original RGB monitor. I figure the problem may be with the video out circuitry, I have reseated the Daphne chip and can see no obvious problems with the circuit board components, including obvious blown caps. If you have any hints as to where to specifically look for this vertical output stripe problem it would be much appreciated.
Jan the Man and his chocolaty fan. I found it thoroughly enjoyable watching this... And one and a half hours? Perfection!
Thanks! I thought I’d do some longer videos for people to pass the time. ;)
looking forward for Part 3 My 1000 is missing the side cover I was thinking that a 3D printed one would be a good option. That front cover looks great can't wait to see how it looks painted.
There's a bit of a delay until the next part. Still figuring out reasonable (and inexpensive) ways to color match the paint. :)
I loved the glue and baking soda trick. I never seen that before. :-)
People use it for restoration of ceramic models
Aye. Analog 3d printing.
Love your Swiss army knife, best tool there is! Always carry one in my pocket 😊
you can also make an acetone and plastic "slurry". put some plastic off-casts into a bottle with some acetone. it will have some extra structural properties when you need to glue/fill.
I love these refurbishing vids.
Thanks for the entertaining video once again Jan! Have a great weekend
Oh very nice.What's going to be the upgrade I wonder? More chip RAM perhaps and Kickstart in ROM!
Baking soda what a cool idea!
Nice restore Jan! Are you still planning to do a Part 3 ?
Back in the day we had those Papst Lüfter as we called them in germany 🤪👍
my IBM AT has an actual Papst in it.constant 4000 RPM. No point fitting a soundcard until I replace that thing, hehehe
The original Papst hand balanced steel ones where actualy realy expensive, i think i was like 90$ or so, so it should be more than 100$ today i think for the larger models if one bought them separatly.
What speakers are you using? what make/model? Greetings from Copenhagen.
Actually there are RAM chips from two different manufacturers Hitachi and NEC. The NECs are from 1986 week 25, also 3 of the Hitachi, but one from week 23.
The NECs seem all to be replaced, but as the production time suggests this was done at the factory.
The 68000 CPU is from Thomson.
I think the unsoldered part was a choke coil, never saw a capacitor in that form before but i saw coils like that before.
Hab auch dein 2. Video wieder gern geschaut. Mein Retrobright Versuch mit der Rückwand vom 1000er ist leider nicht so gleichmäßig geworden (leichter Marmor-Effekt). Für der Amiga 500 gedacht, läuft die ACA500plus richtig gut an meinem Rechner, jetzt sogar mit Kickstart 3.1 und 8MB Fastram
Replaced the fan I see ! Thought you were going to oil the old one. How much money were they ? Nice clean repair ! By the way I'm always amazed by people that speak more than one language and your English is good. Thanks for showing your work for the most part ,as most repair videos show nothing !
Noctua sells several different versions of the same fan depending on what kind of noise profile you want.. Might have been better to get the NF-A8 ULN or NF-R8 Redux 1200. The 2200rpm PWM fans are designed to run with thermal management so they normally would not at 100% duty cycle. Most computer systems would run them about 500-600rpm. Edit: Whoops commented too soon, you did go and get the ULN version haha. Nice.
Very nice old Lady again!
Jan, would really like to know what paint codes / mix you come up with. I have the same 3D printed thing on my A1000 for that and the side expansion trap door but they need a color match.
Rather a late reply, but if you still need an answer, you can get color match apps for your cell phone from most major paint suppliers. You have to make SURE you do a proper White Balance (most camera apps have this, just search here on YT on how for your phone). Also there are apps not related to paint companies that will give your the RGB and / or the CMYK values you can then take to a paint store and they can match. Here in the US it's free in most paint stores. Be SURE to do the White Balance FIRST or it will be off.
You get extra credit for pronouncing "Aluminum" correctly 1:12:33 , Unlike our British friends. :) But seriously another great video! Looking forward to part 3.
I usually say both, forgot it this time. ;D
That was a fun one! Manual 3D printing and a lounge full of compressed Jan 🤣. Btw I think there are models of theses eject buttons for 3D printing a repair adapter and the whole button too. I think gadgeduk164 mentioned them in one of his floppy repair videos some while ago.
Enjoying the series! Are you using a fume extractor when soldering, Jan?
No fume extraction, we huff flux like real men.
For small jobs I usually just open the window, when I have a lot of soldering to do, I use a little self-made extractor with a PC fan and a filter.
@@JanBeta A self made extractor project would make a fantastic video tutorial, just saying Jan!
Jan, you ever think about making your own circuit boards or expansion cards?
Also, do you FB at all?
Funny, my 1000 had a square latching push button for power instead of a toggle which blended into the side of the case better. The only models of Amiga that I haven't owned are the 1200, 2000 and the 3000. The were great computers for their time. I had a 500, 1000, & 4000-030. I seem to remember my 1000 having a memory expansion box on the side port too. It held an extra 512k in addition to the 128 on the front and internally. I believe it was the first zorro connector though I could be mistaken. The zorro II slot didn't happen until the 1200 I think.
Interesting! I was wondering if the cut out was designed for another type of switch. Seems more appropriate indeed. Thanks for sharing!
The thing to remember about PC fans is that the side where the fan is attached to the frame is always the output side. Also, I always like how the 3-pin fan cables are coloured like the German flag lol.
Great work, Jan
Thank you!
You can make ABS filler with Acetone and ABS filament. Just keep adding ABS to Acetone till you get it to the consistency you want. That is also how you would make the glue. There's probably YT videos on it for 3D printing.
Hi Jan is the front bus connector the same pinout as the side one ?
IIRC the side port is larger to accommodate the signals from/to the CPU (practically the same connector as on the A500 only flipped), whereas the front connector is just for a RAM expansion card.
retrocomputing.stackexchange.com/questions/5410/was-the-amiga-1000s-front-expansion-port-capable-of-anything-other-than-the-256
Nicely done, I really like the low noise fan. Almost as silent as an A 500 😎
What irritates me is the orientation of the ICs on board. All chips head south, but the CPU is oriented north (relative board orientation) - a bit unusual. I would certainly always fear that I've inserted it the wrong way around 🤔
Before I forget it: Regarding the credit card: LMAO 🤣
I'm not a material scientist, but from my limited understanding, you can't just "add moisture" to make the plastic less brittle. The brittleness is due to chemical changes. Reversing those chemical changes isn't as simple as just adding water. Just like how you can't grind up concrete and add water to get new concrete mix.
I heard about putting plastic parts into water and heating to make it more elastic again. I have no idea if that is actually a thing, doesn’t make much sense to me either. Lots of misinformation out there I suppose.
A got a broken LG DVD-writer/VHS-combo thing that had a similar error in the power supply - one of the resistors in the PSU had just barely missed it's through hole... I'm guessing in the factory it still just barely made contact with the solder but got bumped at some point and the whole unit died. Another unit of the same model had too much solder on the HDMI port, bridging some pins so that output never worked. Doesn't speak well for LG's QA, but it was great value for me :D
Nice! Seems the QA had a bad day (or several). :D Glad your repair skills paid off. It's such a great feeling to be able to fix such things.
6:05 What about C204 That little guy went missing completely ?
They caught her in the back room with R3247, they both were instantly fired.
Great work Jan. Why haven't you used the silent NF-A8 ULN as you did before with the A2000 powersupply ? The NF-A8 PWM you used here moves a bit more air, but i think the NF-A8 ULN is still fine enough for the A1000 power supply and it's silent as you know.
Ah...i watched further and you figured it out the ULN :)
Jan; install a rubber dampening membrane obtainable from the notorious sources...Great for reducing vibration noise along with rubber style 'screws" ...-Mark.
Another video says the original fan is 120v - the replacement you are using is 12v. Where is it connected?
I connected it to the 12V rail of the psu (the explanation is in one of the videos of this series, I can't remember which one).
Nice job there :) That CPU is indeed a Thomson, but it's an 8 at the end and not a B, maybe that's why you didn't find much info on it... They also did purple/gold ceramic (EF68000C8, EF68000CM10) versions and a square (TS68000CR12) version too :)
Alcohol to be effective has to have some amount of water in it so that it can pass the cell membrane of a bacterium.
You recommend lithium greese over machine oil for drive? I've used machine oil myself
Lithium is the way to go for all the sliding, levers, and bearings. Oil the way to go for all rotating shafts. Personally I use more modern synthetic replacements most times but on this I'd use lithium. For the drive shaft (rotating) I use oil to REMOVE the old grease, run it a bit and clean dry it then re-grease. Source: Me. Was factory trained in floppy repair back in the day ... ;-)
@@MrPuterPro thanks for tips. Regrease with lithium you mean? How would fancy automotive grease go?
@@blackterminal Well, that depends on what you mean by automotive grease ... Certainly not wheel bearing grease which is designed for high temps and huge loads. Just a normal white lithium grease available in any home improvement or auto store, or, of course, Amazon ... :-)
I think you plugged the power LED in backwards, since it's not lighting up.
Ha ha back in the day I used to operate VCD axial sequencer machines and they would often need calibrating during the sequence as they began inserting components slightly offset. Ah memories...
Restoration with Heart and Soul👍✌
What make is the rotary tool?
That EF68000 was definitely made by Thomson-EFCIS.
Very nice work. Well done! I have a couple of questions.
1-Can a built in Kickstart 1.3 rom be installed inside this A1000?
2-Can the 0.5 mb ram be increased to 1.0 by modifying the front memory cartridge?
If these are possible, i would like the see these upgrades in the part 3 :)
1. There are ways of adding an A500 Kickstart ROM to an A1000 but adapters boards are required.
2. The front slot only takes 256K. I have a board called an IN1000 in my A1000 that plugs into the CPU socket and adds 1.5MB fast RAM using 48 256Kx1 RAM chips. xtra RAM can also be added using modules that plug into the side expansion slot. I have a SCSI controller + 512K module with a little light that indicates RAM access.
And what about a simple discrete PWM controller? NE555 based, or so.
And a montage set to Focus 10 music. What more would we need? 😉
Exactly! ;)
Ist es normal das andere Kondensatoren wie der c204 c201 usw fehlen ? Hab bislang noch nie ein Amiga 1000 in den Fingern gehabt..
what video signal converter do you use for the video cable?
For quick testing like in this case, I use one of the cheap Flylink SCART to HDMI upscalers. For more serious stuff (streaming, gaming etc) I use an OSSC which is awesome.
@@JanBeta must look into that.... this video opened my apetite to play with my st and I'm atm retrobrighting it in the sun :)). it is turning great. also my 400v condenser of the psu needs replacement. its getting rounded at the top. its not suposed right?
@@jvidia Right. Domed caps are bad caps.
18:26 You had empty solder points (pads) with GND and +12V just below power connector!!!
37:00 Yes, it is made by Thomson-CSF. Later versions were marked TS68000 (SGS-Thomson, now ST).
Die Reparatur von den C16 Computern hab ich spannend verfolgt. Ich weiß zwar das der Amiga in einer anderen Liga spielt, doch wird mir schwindelig wenn ich das board nur ansehe. Da sind ja so viele Chips drauf, ich würde gar nicht wissen wo ich mit der Arbeit beginnen soll.
Hi Jan there is also the Capasitor C204 missing.
I think there are also others "missing". They would typically provide lots of decouping on the design and then maybe drop a few of the unneeded ones away from the BOM to reduce manufacturings costs by a cent or two.
A1000 Dr.Oetker-Edition! Build on Backpulver. 😅
no matter which machine, put a noctua in and it´s awsome :-)
ADDENDUM
You know that Plastic welding glue? Have you tried sourcing donor plastic that you can file down with a very smooth file, so that instead of Baking soda you use that plastic welding glue and the plastic filings or powder to build up chipped off plastic, Fill up unwanted Holes and even fill in cracks? Also there are some cheap plastic welding and resurfacing kits that can copy textures down to smooth surfaces..
Awsome video as always! I honestly must agree with those fans, from a tecnicaly point of wiew they are great quality fans but they realy are incredibly load and enerving in the long run...
Some of those industrial quality metal fans are in fact much quiter then modern plastic ones (i still use a few on my cooling system), but later, plastic ones from Commodore machines i hawe used was not exactly quite...
for the 12V Fan you can make a tempcontrol PCB, ...für den 12V Lüfter würde ich eine temperatur gesteuerte Platine einsetzen mit nem NTC.
This is great! Thank you very much!
Glad you like it! :)
Great video Jan
So why did you put this first new fan on if you were just going to put the NEW new one in anyway?
I wonder if someone desoldered one leg of that cap so it could be tested out-of-circuit, and then forgot to put it back.
Looking at the leg and the solder point on the board it very much looks like that part was never connected.
Yes, definitely looked like it was just never soldered in from factory.
thanks for the video! enjoyed watching
Actually, Jan, there is a NF-R8 redux-1200 fan out there, that is even quieter and its in a nice grey so it suits the general styling better... Also it has even slightly more airflow.
(waits for next fan replacement video) :P
Yes, saw that one, too, when I searched Amazon again for the links in the description... It never ends! ;P
@@JanBeta I always check at Noctua's own website. There you can nicely compare all the stats for the fans. and then I look where I get the one I want for the lowest money. Usually Amazon anyway...
I don't think it would really make a difference, but I think the intention is to make sure the brown bushings on the fan are the only thing in contact with the power supply. They look like rubber isolations, so the fan should "float" free. Adding a few washers to leave a tiny gap? The idea would be to isolate the fan and stop vibrations from being amplified by what it's attached to... or they're just cosmetic and make no difference ;-)
Yeah, the screw should have had a larger washer so that it contacts the soft rubber and not the hard plastic case but in this case I don't think it makes much difference. Of course the idea is to not propagate any vibrations from the fan to the rest of the case to make noise somewhere else than the moving fan. It can really make a difference when mounting spinning hard drives into cases. Even more with optical drives that can make the whole case BURRRR at some nice harmonic frequency.
You're both right but the best solution is from Noctura themselves. All those fans come with rubber mounts that push through the holes and pull the fan tight with nothing but rubber touching any of it. They're probably a bit of a tight fit to the existing screw holes on the PS but nothing to a pair of nippers in the hands of a guy who makes his own plastic with superglue and baking soda ... It's funny because just last night I just caught one of my cats with one she swiped from a table. Not that they EVER get on my tables ... while I'm in the room at least.