THIS is why you should run lower tire pressure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
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Will be trying this out on my Zwift race tonight.
😁😁🤣🤣
😂😂😂
Then I lolled 🤣
@@rockytalkndawoods3057joke > you
I do same thing on ADZ, bike's lower front end at lower pressure makes it feel like I am going downhill.
It's all coming full circle and it's taken 30yrs to get here. Specialized did extensive testing on rolling resistance back in the 80s. This was when they came out with the Turbo clincher tire. The whole "narrower is faster and more aero" craze kicked off. The 1984 Olympics was also a catalyst for 'more aero' when the crazy aero pursuit bikes appeared. Was a higher pressure and narrow tire faster? Yes, their tests showed it was.... but what few realized that was on a perfectly smooth surface (like in a velodrome). Regardless road tire manufacturers took that and ran with it. Racers started running 19c-23c tires (yes... some guys ran 19c or 21c tires!) at 115-120psi! Crazy! The 19c and 21c tires died out after a few years (too many flats and damaged rims) so 23c @ 100+ psi became the norm. However on the road any bumps and other imperfections killed any forward momentum when the tire bounced up and over rather than deforming and absorbing it. Rivendell was saying this since 1996 but no one listened until recently. Being a bigger guy (61cm frame and 185lb racing weight back in the 90s (much heavier now) I would race on 25c (@95psi) and I trained on 28c tires (@80-90psi). Even though it was heavier 28c at slightly lower pressure for me was the best combo. It was comfortable and more versatile (because back then, early 90s, some of us Nebraska roadies would dive off onto a gravel road section to liven things up on training rides). Most 'racing' frames of the period could barely clear a 28c so I stuck with steel frames rather than aluminum or carbon. With the advent of gravel riding the 'all road' bike concept has really influenced bike designs and a road frame today that can only fit a 23-25c tire is stupid. Wider tires are back and there's so many tire options out there now. Today I think a 28-32c road tire is the sweet spot for fast road riding. Running at 80-95 psi (for a big guy like me, less if you're lighter) is faster over real pavement and you can ride gravel with the same tire too. Wider and lower pressure is better! 🙌🏽
This is so true...hardly fitted 25c in my old road bike, had to shred something off to fit im my frame :) ...and I already felt that my daily comuting fitness bike with 28c was faster ...now I ride 32c and for me (I'm heavier as well) it is absolutely the sweet spot of fast and comfortable...I'd just go lower on 28c or 30c if lightweight is the absolute priority
What some people may not consider is that the lower PSI is also beneficial to preventing fatigue on the bike over long durations. The road chatter experienced using high PSI can be taxing. This season coming I'll be on 30mm tires and likely 60/60 PSI, I am a 85-90kg rider. Right now i run 65/70 PSI on 28mm tires and it's great for all types of riding, also maybe a little tire dependent? I run conti's but have ran Schwalbe in the past which were a MUCH softer tire I found, so didn't run as low of PSI.
Tubeless or with a tube?
Damn Im 58 kilo and run 75 in 28s. Ill try 60 tomorrow
EDIT, I run tubes -___-
Personally, I enjoy the win/win when I went from running 28mm butyl tubed at around 95 psi to 32mm tubeless at 63 psi - better ride quality and higher speeds at equivalent effort.
76 kilos and I run 65 ish in crits, 70 for general riding :p @@jani724
@@jdmcdorce876 I have two set of wheels: 1. "Fast" 56 mm deep with 26c S-Works tyres (to be replaced when worn out by 28c GP5000) and TPU inner tubes. 2. "Adventure" 38mm deep, 30c tyres (GP5000) and butyl tubes. When I have quick rides on well-known smooth roads --> (1). When having long, Z2 rides or to explore unknown areas --> (2). Also these days it's getting more and more windy (fall 😞) so (2) is much more stable.
I weigh about 165. I started lowering pressures when I shifted to road tubeless about five years ago. I started at around 85 F/R and I've gradually been lowering pressures. I've settled on tubeless 28s at 62/65 F/R for about two years now for fast road riding. It feels great in corners, it makes rides less tiring for my hands and I don't think it's any slower. This corroborates that feeling.
Pretty much spot on in what I do, I weigh pretty much the same too. A lot of people still look at me like I'm crazy if I tell them I run 65PSI/4.5 bar. Especially at crits here in the Netherlands. Lots of older conservative guys.
I'm about the same weight and have settled on the same tire pressures.
I had a slow leak last year and an OLD SCHOOL cyclist got in an argument with me when I borrowed his pump on the road. He literally shoved me aside and started furiously pumping air into my tires, trying to hit 95 (which he had marked on his gauge). He kept shouting that I was going to kill myself, while I kept shouting "these are hookless carbon rims," which sounded ridiculous to both of us.
You forgot to mention rider weight. Very different number for a 50kg rider compared to a 100kg rider. You also forgot to mention that best practice is to run lower tire pressure on the front tire. Usually 5 to 10psi. Depending on rider preference. I'm 63kg. I run 62psi front 72psi rear. Latex tubes on narrow 25mm tires. NEVER pinch flat'd in hundreds of thousands of kms. On 28mm tires I'd be down 50psi front. So I suspect for the average 70-75kg rider 60psi would be ideal on 28mm tires, front wheel. Front wheels usually support about 40%-45% of the total weight. Hence the lower pressure. Lower is virtually always better. Riders think harder is faster because it feels faster, because of the increased vibration. It's an illusion. The shaking is wasted energy.
The riders weight is the main factor! That changes everything.
100 percent.
@@noelodwyer that's a lot of "forget to mention"s... so much bike clickbait on youtube..
Your lower pressure front to back makes no sense. Maybe your front wheel supports 45% of the weight when the bike isn't moving, assuming you don't move either. But if you're braking hard, climbing et al then your distribution changes significantly - far more significantly than the differences on a stationary road or gravel bike - it's close enough to 50/50 that it makes no sense at all to use different pressures front to back. In fact the idea you'd have any significant tyre pressure difference because of a 2-5% weight difference makes no sense at all. You're saying 10 psi? Nope. It'd be a couple of psi max and it's very unlikely whatever equipment you'd use to put either 70 or 72 psi in the tyres is measuring the psi accurately enough for you to actually put in a 2 psi difference in the first place. Unless you have purchased digital pressure gauges that have been calibrated. But, as soon as you brake hard then you need to quickly change the psi in the tyres according to your idea the weight distribution matters because now you won't have enough air in the front tyre. Nope, if the weight matters then you'd need sufficient air in the front tyre to handle braking when your weight will transfer to the front to the point where the back tyre has more or less no traction.
Interesting point, You run them extremely low, is this even in the range of pressure recommended by producers? I somewhat agree with energy loss, but it always feels really sluggish to start from full stop and quickly accelerate on low pressure. I noticed that tread pattern, sidewall construction, rubber compound and weight are all factors in how tire performs on lower pressure - I decided to stay away from nylone and hard casing for that reason, they all rolls like brick.
i've run 100s of miles on 32mm gp5000s with tubes @ 54F 56R and have yet to pinch flat. only this past year have been experimenting with lower pressures and love it.
What is your weight?
I have the same tires and I am strugling to find what pressure shoulkd i use. There is recomendation to use 85 psi (6bar), but calculators show less. 180 lbs (80kg) is my weight.
i myself went down from 85 to 70 over the last year and a half and i liked it very much. your video motivates me to try to go even lower now (i did not cross my mind until now, because of the calculators you mentioned).
great video thank you for it
Trackrat here: I run 150 in my A-bike's tubulars and 120 in my B-bike's clinchers.
I've never been on a wood surface, but this has worked for me on the outdoor tracks in the midwest.
so i wasn't too far off! thanks for your insight. I assume they run even higher on wood.
My daughter races on wooden tracks - runs 200 - 220 psi on her race wheels with Vittoria Pista tubulars. I know because I pump up the tires - my arm workout for the day 😂
I'm a total amateur (85 kg), don't race, just ride casually on average quality tarmacs and my results improved dramatically when I switched from 70 to 105 PSI. I haven't noticed any differance in comfort, but I ride an endurance frame which might be the reason for that
it's almost certainly less efficient at 105psi unless you're on very smooth tarmac, like brand new pavement. but you're the ultimate judge, just make sure you're within the spec of your equipment, many tubeless tires have a max rating of 100psi
Amazing video, can you guys do the same for tires with inner tubes. I am still in my old school 25mm conti and would like to see the results you guys achieve. Cheers
maybe I'm just weird, but I'm running about 75-80psi with my normal 28mm clinchers, non tubeless. Tried 70psi and instantly felt like it was super squishy and unresponsive. haven't tried tubeless though
I do easy training rides on a hard-tail mtb with 38mm tubeless at 44 psi in front and 46 psi in back. I started doing this because it's super comfy and allows me to ride longer with no pain, but the big surprise is that my Strava times are not much slower (1-2 mph usually) than my road bike. My next road bike will definitely have wider, tubeless tires run at lower psi.
Best advice is to purchase a Topeak digital tire pressure gauge for accurate tire pressure. My Specialized pump mechanical gauge was like 20psi low. Oh, and I still run a 23mm on my Roval CLX60 front at 103-106 psi 😊
I always get a chuckle at these old guys stuck in the past running skinny tires and high psi, beating the hell out of their bodies with no benefit.
Careful if you've got hookless rims! Max is usually 70odd psi 🙏🏼
Dry 66psi front, 70psi rear.
Wet 60psi front 65psi rear
28mm Cadex classics on Enve 5.6’s.
A lot of the calculators say 63/66psi for my weight. (86kg/190lbs)
10 psi on the road. Perfect 👍
Totally, never had a pinch flat in my life.
I prefer to vacuum out there air first and have -10psi
I'd do 10atm
Love the video, very fun idea but you should talk about safety a bit more.
Gp5000 28mm have max psi of 94, you should not run them over the recommendation. Second, hookless rims are even lower, usually 80 psi max.
If you want to run super low pressures and not burp while cornering, Vittoria air-liner inserts will add a safety factor if you want to test it out, and also help with high speed flat safety. Id recommend them for anyone going above 80km while descending.
New test - Vittoria tyre inserts. I ride tubeless 30mm Conti GP5000STR (measure 32mm) with Vittoria tyre inserts 32-45psi depending on weather/road surface conditions with a few psi less for front. System weight 75kg.
Wow! This was awesome! Can't thank you enough! I've been running 28mm tires at 115 psi! Not anymore. Next ride will be at 80 psi
CXer over a decade. Used wider road tires and lower pressure for years over rough roads and mixed terrain. Road finally caught up to CX logic with tires.
Past 2 years I've run 25mm tubeless at 60-65psi (125lb rider) with fantastic results. Comfortable, fast, sticks corners and in 2 years only twice have had punctures seal themselves, no total flats.
60f 65 r or are you saying in that range?
@@williambob111 Range, though 60f 65r would be probably be perfect if your gauge is that accurate.
I run 65 rear and 60 front on 28mm S TRs (75kg). It feels comfortable and fast. This has convinced me to try even lower since I don't race.
I'm 73-75 too and run 3,8 bar front and 4 bar back on 28mm Pro One, which apparently is rougly 54psi and 58psi
@@Domenic-u6b that’s what I’m going to try next. Lower by 5psi
im wanting to try that on my 25mmgp5000's im 73
i've been doing chill endurance rides at 55 front 60 rear and intend to continue base season at those pressures, maybe even slightly lower.
@@NorCalCycling Did 30 miles on 60/55 and it was smooth as butter.
Makes a difference whether you're running clincher or some nice silk-cased tubs at low pressure too
lower pressure only if you ride on shitty roads or want comfort. On roads with great surface, it becomes slower
did you not look at the data?
@cornishcat11 apparently he didn't lol, wtf
@@cornishcat11 data is out a long time ago and is made by experts inside a velodrome not on puclic roads.. It all depends on your physical condition and the condition you are riding on. There is no perfect number for every day ride
@@mikpiotto try to go 50 psi inside a velodrome vs 100 psi. You will loose . Science
@@riverhunterquebec "made by experts inside a velodrome not on puclic roads". WRONG.
Time for some inserts on the road bike Jeff... 40psi, inserts.... doooo it. do it! hahah. On the MTB I run 13psi up front in a 2.35 tire, and 13.5 rear with a 2.25 tire, rear does have an insert though as I dont enjoy hearing the rim ping when I am at speed. I am 86kg.
I got a pretty bad blowout in my rear tire on a rail trail one day, no pump on me but it managed to seal at what felt like, and confirmed later to be 30psi. So now I've got 15miles to go and a group passes me. Guess what, im taking turns doing 30mph on 30psi-28mm tires. Smoothest ride I've ever had!
Love this video. I just did a similar test recently with the same results. I’m now thinking about going to 32’s and running 50psi. Currently on 28’s at 55/58psi.
Some of us had to get past the mental block of the original 19mm race tires having to be pumped to 120psi to not pinch flat. They were fast, hard, and didnt last at all. Conti came in with 21mm and they looked huge but we still pumped to 110 and just kept that thinking since we road steel bikes with beautiful flexy chrome forks that we could watch flex 1/2 inch over bumps. Carbon frames came about stiff as a board and gave the precise road feel of formula one cars but the problem was chip and seal/rough roads gave wayyyy too much feedback. These newer 28-30mm tires and 77psi pressures feel great to my 56yr old back!!
I run 30c on a 25mm internal rim and they measure to 33.1 mm, which seems huge, but running those at 60/58 they feel faster and more comfortable than any other wheel/tire I’ve felt. Cornering they feel incredible as well. Strongly recommend
I'm running 30mm tires too, and I dig it.
170 lbs with 30mm Tubeless at 70 psi. Will try 65 psi next time.
It took me YEARS to ween myself of very high pressures. My first training and racing was on a the velodrome when I was young (in the '90s), because it was only a few km from my parents' place. I didn't even know what criteriums were. Even though it was a not-so-smooth Plexipave surface, everyone pumped their tubulars up to over 160psi! So, I later took this thinking to my road training and criterium racing.
In the '90s, 20mm clinchers were the norm, and some people used 18mm. I put at least 140psi in all my 20mm clinchers. I rode mostly on good roads. When 23mm tyres became the norm, I went around town buying all the 18s and 20s! 😀 I eventually switched to 23s (big difference; I should've switched much sooner), but I still put about 130 in the rear and 110 in the front (I was well over 80kg then). Anyway, after all these years, I'm down to about 100 rear and 90 front. How INTERESTING!! 😀
I am a 90 kg sprinter, running tubeless 28c tyres which blow up to 30mm on wide rims. Around 63 psi front and 69 rear is my setup now for 2 or 3 years and it is pretty much perfect for everyday use and mixed roads.
sounds perfect
I think the 60s is the sweet spot. Here is what I run.
Front 28mm / 62psi
Rear 30mm / 64psi
157lbs
With tube or tubeless?
@@rayc9793 We wouldn’t even be having this convo with tubes.
@@Nowayfrrrrrrr dunno, I would use something like the SRAM or Silca calculator, there are too many variables to consider: internal rim width, bike and rider weight, tire width…
I have a hard rock disk run 2.5 hookworm at 45 works great
I'm 180 lbs and run my 28mm gp5000's with tpu tubes at 79 psi back and 76 front, they feel great for my weight.
Try going down more. Comfort really pops off in the 60’s. 👍
@@radtony1720 I'll give it a try, a little worried about the tpu tubes on very low psi, still worth the shot.
Actually, yeah with tubes you’re probably right. Get rid of them and then try 60’s. I switched from butyl, to latex, to tubeless myself in about 6 months. Don’t know why I waited so long. Tubeless is great. Enjoy!
I'm 154 with Hed Ardenne clinchers ( 25) and run just under 70 psi, which is about what they recommend and have been doing it for 10 years. Our roads are pretty good here but with occasional rough areas and never a pinch flat
50 feels like a bit of squish when sprinting uphill as well. I have kept mine around 63 psi at 145 lbs and 28 mm tire and been happy with that. On my commuter I run 34mm tires at 45 psi and man is it a plush ride.
Tested my pressures over the past couple years for tubeless and landed on 60 psi for 25mm. Looking to get 28mm tires next time I need to replace and potentially go a little lower. I weigh around 160-165 lbs.
How wide is the inner section of your wheels?
It also will vary if the wheels are hooked or hookless as the hookless rim tires run on lower preasure than on hooked rims.
great data and great video as always!. how much do each of you guys weigh? that's a pretty big factor in where everyone's individual sweet spot is
Good question! I'm about 161lbs, blaine is around 170 i think. sry for freedom units
High pressure with special suspension (like on earlier Moulton bikes) works fine.
I've (75kg) been riding 32/30s @ 60ish for 2 years now... it's sublime. Especially on 25mm internal rim width, its still very aero as well.
60 psi on 30-32mm tyres is actually not that low. I run 25mm tyres at 50 psi in the wet!
@@richardmiddleton7770 that is pretty low!
If you go too low you may get pinch flat even on a wider tire. Note if you run a 23 at say 90 pounds and a 28 at say 80 the 28 may be harder as there is more air underneath you and thus more rigidity, certainly if both tires are riding at say 90 then the 23 will give a gentler ride and more pinch flats. Wider is only more gentler if you let out enough air. In the old days we rode wide tires on bigger rims and they were slow because they were so hard to accelerate, that is why 23 and high pressure won out, high pressure required to avoid pinch flats
I have a hybrid bike in the Trek Dual sport 4 from 2021 with 700c by 40mm and I find between 45-60 is optimal for me. I have it currently at 55 in the back and 47 in the front. I may suggest trying a slightly lower pressure in the front sense it does not have all of the body weight over it. You maybe able to get away with 50 PSI in the front without compromising safety.
I'm running 28's tubed at 70 pounds pressure on my ENVE 4/5's with no pinch flats. I weigh 182 and they feel great.
there is the factor of vulnarability to punctures, according to tyre pressure, also the lower the psi, the more wear on the tyre, it seems.
As someone who ran 25c tires at old school higher pressures (I weigh 180lbs and ran 95r 90f) and recently moved to a tire that measures 30mm and running 75r 70f, I'm a convert for sure. The new bike rides better than my old one, even though the new bike is an aero bike with deeper stiffer tubes
The high pressure on a wider tyre chatters much more than a thinner tyre, because the contact patch is so much wider. Because a bump is introduced "across the tyre", there is already more tyre to exert force against it, resulting in less deformation. A 23mm at 100psi will feel plush compared to 28/30mm at 100psi
152 pounds, i run 60/63 in both my latex tubed 28mm tires, and my tubeless 28mm tires (same brand/model, just the T model). I can go lower but the bike feels splashy. It never did anything weird, it just felt like it didn't respond to a dip into a corner as fast as I'd like, and if I came out of a corner, and went right back to upright (say like a sprint out of a corner), it felt splashy there too. Basically sudden changes upset the feel. I ended up doing exactly what you suggested and those numbers seemed about right for me.
And if rene herse is to be believed, you can go even larger on the tires. I don't race, but I went from 28mm/100psi to 35mm/65psi (tubed) on my endurance road bike. Far more comfort & stability without the loss of any speed. No pinch flat problems either--just thorn flat problems.
Thanks you for the video. It reminded me when we tried 150PSI on Conti 20mm tires back in 1998. My ass still hurts.
It all depends on the surface. If youre riding on a veledrome, you want the highest skin tension.
The ‘rubber’ has changed over the years too regarding flex and grip.
I have been doing 28s for years, I was at 50psi with tubes for a few years but I would get like 4 pinch flats a year. Now I run tubes at 70 and tubeless for race day at 60-65.
I’m running my bike with butyl inner tube…. so far I’m happy with it
"...I'm old school and started out on 23c tires..." LOL! You are making me feel old. I was running 18c and 20c tires back in the day. They were pumped up to ridiculous pressures. My first new, full on race bike was a Cannondale. It was jarring to say the least.
im 58kg always been using 50 psi GP5000TL and I'm flying and it is also so comfortable to the point that I didn't really feel anything after 5hrs of continues ride.
I used to ride as a junior at 150 lbs with my tire pressure at max recommended. I rode today with my pressure at 120 rear and 110 front. I think I jarred some of my brain cells out today. Going back to around 80 psi.
Volume is inversely proportional to pressure. 23 mm tire 120 psi is softer than 28 mm 120 psi.
How low can you go with a tube, and does that change if it's Butyl, TPU or Latex?
I have the same questions.
The silca pro tyre calculator is very good guide... ive used it for race day tyre (w-tube) pressures...
I’m greatful for the review. 😊
You should be on an ENVE Melee. Please review.
I'm 150lbs, I do 80psi in the back and 75psi in front. This is with Conti 25 with tubes.
Me too, exact same numbers. The new gp5000's this year were so hard to mount on a 700x25 wheel.
I would suggest to read up on this topic at hambini's blog post.
How much does each rider weigh? This is key to set up.
May be if Performance Bike - hint hint - could sponsor you a set of Quarq's TyreWiz, you might be able to get a more up-to-minute tire pressure reading. On a warm day here in the PNW, I have experienced pressure increase as much as 4 PSI during a ride, so I tend to inflate less than my ideal tire pressures before I head out.
One thing that is worth mentioning when you go under 70-75 psi on tubeless tires is the increased risk of sidewall flats from debris and gravel you often find on road shoulders, something the sealant won’t seal. Obviously, you try to stay away from it, but that’s not always possible. Every single sidewall flat I’ve had since I’ve been running lower pressures has come at 60ish psi. I run 28s by the way. Has anyone else encountered this expensive problem?
Are you running tougher puncture resistant tires with a bit stiffer sidewall? They are a bit heavier than supple tires and a bit stiffer at lower pressure. And some are notoriously hard to get on the tubeless ready rims too... like Conti Gatorskins. However, this has as much to do with the rim bead seat tolerance as it does with the tire. Spec. Armadillos are a little easier in my experience as a shop mechanic. However the new elites have a tad lighter sidewall but are still considered tough.
Having just done a road race @35psi because I didnt check beforehand, its more than that. 50 to 60 seems like a sweet spot
Conti str 28, 19.4mm id hookless
Great podcast!!!! Enormously helpful
I tried experimenting with the tire pressure on my fixed gear bike. What I noticed is I have to pedal harder on lower psi (50-60psi) and I was coasting with little force applied on the pedal at higher psi (70-80psi). My weight is 72kg with 23c tires both rear and front. Mind that my area is hilly and I tested the pressure on an inclines (doesn't have a choice)
I'm new to cycling, I'm a 6' guy weighing about 105kgs and I'm worried about the amount of air to be pumped in the tires. what would be the good range for a daily commute hybrid cycle (Bergamot Sweep 3I). Tires - Kenda Kadence, 32-622 with Kenda tubes.
running old bike with 23mm and 120psi no problems, it is an old 1998 scott bike that came with michelin kevlar reinforced 18mm tires with max pressure of 180psi...
I run 90psi on tires capable of 100. I hsve consistently been able to prove for myself, when they lower down to 60-70, I become slower. I dont race, i just go put, ride for 1hr and its all road/paved trails. None of it bad. About 400ft of hill climbs.
But when my pressures go down, i get slower. Which makes sense, crowning the tire reduces contact patch snd thuse reduces friction. If i wamted more grip, id get a diff tire since these are hard enduro tires and im not racing.
But as someone whos been into auto racing for 30 years, these tire principals are pretty standard.
I weigh 148 lbs, 30's, hooked tubeless, i ride at 56 r 52 f.......... love the way the bike feels.
For more context, what rims were you guys using? What internal width? Hooked or hookless?
reserve 40/44 and blaine was on clx50s. both hooked.
Thanks for the test. Tire pressure keeps me busy. I probably missed something. But what tire width were you riding, 25, 28 ore 30. And what is your weight. Thanks
I was so excited to try this! Then you said DONT with tubes 😞 . Do you think clinchers could lower psi at all?
I've ridden 40 psi on my 25 mm gp5k with ultrathin butyl tubes at 155lb. Obviously don't go cracking into any curbs but it sure was comfy 😅
That’s crazy! But I guess I’ll try a lil lower. I have been running 74/72 psi w/ 28mm gp5k and latex tubes 155 pounds.
Depends on your weight, whether you "send it" over rough stuff like tracks, potholes, etc. I don't. I try to bunny if I see it coming. I'm at 165 lbs and run puncture resistant tires at 72 psi and tubes with no problems. Stiffer sidewalls help too, but won't be as comfortable as "supple" one.
I'm 140lbs and run my contis 5000 30m at 40psi rear and FRONT 38psi. That's "MY" SWEET SPOT. REGULAR clincher tires with latex tubes
11:08 Guys check Silca and Zipp calculators with same measurements u will be shocked
Great video. Very helpful!
l run 28mm that sit on my elite wheels about 30,7 mm wide. at about 65 PSI and 30s that sit about 31,6mm at about 60. feels great, not sluggish, comfy, fast, gives a lot of confidence in corners. (l weigh about 65kg at 165cm)
Im at 55 PSI on the front 57PSI on rear and attack downhill decents like on a motorbike. Never had an issue. Feels like the bike has suspension. Go down to 50PSI in the rain.
In a few of the clips in your vid, you showed the wheel going into a significant pothole. I live in pothole country! Is there a risk with 50psi and rim damage if the tire compresses and the edge of a nasty pothole makes contact with the rim ?
Yeah but 100psi FEELS really fast 🤣. Gotta think about the fun factor Jeff! Serious question though: for those of us with older bikes without the luxury of clearance for 28mm+ tyres, what should we be running on our 23s/25s?
i'd check out silca's calculator and start there, then lower it by 3-5psi each ride on familiar roads and equipment until you hit your comfort limits of squish in the corners.
I'm behind the times still running 25mm with tubes. 80psi seems to be the sweet spot for my setup/weight but after feeling how much smoother wider tires are I'm definitely buying 28mm+ going forward.
If you don't mind me asking what is your weight? I am also running 25mm with tubes. Currently 100psi front/115psi rear @143lbs. I want to experiment going lower but also really don't want to get a flat on my ride.
@@joshuapark4081 i weigh the same as you, and with my 25mm tube setup, i'd be running 65 to 70psi. 28mm tubeless, i'm down to 40-45psi. and i haven't gotten any more or less punctures than i did back when i was running higher pressures. the only single pinch flat i've gotten in the last four seasons was because i ended up blindly going through a gnarly pothole in the middle of the night during an equally gnarly rain storm.
@@joshuapark4081 I’m 140lbs and the tires are Grand Prix GT, it’s what the bike came with. Cheers!
I am 125 lbs using 25mm at 90/95 psi and seem pretty good for me I had 3 flats this year at 12583 kms to be exact. I would like to try lower psi to see what would be my verdict..
I run 75/78 psi with tubes! Weighing in at 200 lbs, too...
I put 75 psi rear 70 psi front with tube for 72kg, perfect.
Enve tires are recommended for 40psi to 80psi only.
Test the brake distance of those pressures, safety ride ftw!
I can tell a difference when I'm higher than my normal riding pressure and lower. Lower, and not by 25psi lower makes it feel like my brakes are dragging slightly. Higher is uncomfortable and no faster. I'm talking a difference of 10 to 15psi either direction.
I’ve recently went to tubeless and airliners, on my Canyon CFR, running 28mm tire at 65/70 f/r and big difference from running around 80 psi, smoother ride, much more comfortable. Those glasses are fire, what kind are they? I love the rainbow reflection on the lenses.
Interesting result. How about the difference front and rear. Recreational rider here, but when I started down the wider/lower pressure path...I found lower pressure on the front seems to reduce the bouncy feel of small bumps. With the front 10psi lower than the rear. Now I have settled on 5psi. On my race bike set up, I was using 650x38 Gravel Kings 40F and 45R. The feel great on normal bumpy pavement. When you have a bit of unpaved or dirt road, it feels better to speed up than slow down.
Cornering at race pace and riding in a pack is whole different proposition though. I hope to return to the local indoor track soon. Using 700x28 at 75 to 80psi? Have to see how it feels. Our track is very short at 138m with 50 degree banking through the corners. Above 60kph it gets interesting holding the black line.
Can you measure pressure increase over time (ex. the first 10min of a hot ride), for your preferred pressure? Ive always been curious, and its noticble on mtb rides, particularly those which start early, in cooler condition.
I use to ride 120 on 23, then 100 on 23, 90 on 23, 90 on 28 and now 80 on 28. I don't like the tires to get rolly in the corners like you were describing.
You have to be careful not to go too low with the pressure because the lower you go, the less protection your rim has. If you can bottom out on a pothole or crack, a carbon rim is going to give.
It's different for every tire brand. 90lbs on Cotton Turbos feels like 70 on a full galvanized tire
I probably missed it... but what width are these tires?
Newly subscribed. Age 67 raced on tubulars in the 1970’s at 100 psi approximately. We did not use gauges just listened to the ping when flicking tire with our finger. Now i use three sets of wheels. One deep dish carbon and two aluminum ( i have two road bikes, one “endurance” with triple chainring, and one race oriented. All tubes. ( both laytex or butyl..next year i will get some tpi)Using silca early this year i got 5 flats. Lowered pressure about five psi, both more comfy and no flats. I use 25 mm tires. One front wheel i do have a 28 mm gatorskin… smooth ride… but it did have a rear tire blowout at higher pressure as i did not realize it was 28 mm lol. I agree about experimenting. With premium tires 25 mm continental gps with vittoria laytek tubes, rider weight 215, i was running upper 90s normal mixed roads, then brought it down to below 95. Next year i will start at 90 and bring it down. I do have a powermeter. This whole subject is a LOT trickier than one would think. One question that comes to mind is ( if frame fits it) can we tell what tire size will fit a given rim? Is a micrometer needed to measure the inside of the rim? My gear is mostly much older.
The SRAM calculator will probably put you somewhere like 60psi and I find the results from that particular calculator to be good. Commuter on crap roads, not a racer tho.
Did I miss where you each listed your body weight?
What is the lowest reasonable pressure for tubed tires to avoid pinch flats?
Too many variables to determine, unless you chart it and experiment. Your weight, the tread, the sidewall stiffness, specific (and subjective) psi range, and the shape of the roads you ride all make a difference. Hookless versus hooked also plays a role too because the sidewall profile is different depending on psi.