I realize it's now 2022 -- but just wanted to drop a note that this video was very helpful in all the small details. Thank you so much for taking the time to film and post this back in the day :)
You're very welcome indeed! It's really nice to receive some positive feedback regardless of how far back they go because it means that the effort put into shooting and editing the vid was worthwhile. Have a great weekend where you are. Thanks again, Des
Impressive video. I cant belive you did this all by your self. You recorded everything perfectly showing the process. Nice edit of the video to. Thank you.
Thank you for your kind words Jenna. Glad the video helped. Those old doors will probably be so much better than modern ones and have so much more character. Go for it! Take care, Des
Hey Des., Thank you for the video. I've been restoring my house built in the 30s. Due to time limitations, I've had to split into separate projects and tackle them individually as time permits. Several of the tasks include stripping several layers of paint on wood surfaces such as base moldings, window & door casings as well as the doors. I've been using a heat gun and found it to be quicker and the most effective way to strip away old paint. But even with the gun it seemingly takes forever to accomplish one room. I suppose patience really is a virtue and it's certainly a requirement because it's such a tedious never ending job. I have 6 inch casings plus molding above each door and window. After stripping & sanding several boards I felt it was just too much and was afraid I wouldn't be satisfied with rustic look of the old boards... so I painted one board and rehung it to it's proper place. It looked brand new. But then I decided to try one casing with stain just for comparison. It preserved the antique look. Not a look of brand new. And any of the tiny flaws just gave it character ... antique that had been well cared for. That lead me to choose the much more difficult course and go with staining even though I had foolishly already repainted one of the boards. But here's my problem... even after the paint has been, let's say approximately 99.8% removed... there is still the task of more sanding for a smooth surface that's also clean enough for staining. Meaning picking away paint in tiny nail holes, cracks or imperfections. And yet with that sanding still remains the problem of gunk rapidly building up on the sand paper ...which impedes progress while also making it expensive to achieve the desired quality, or ready for stain. Do you have any suggestions for an easier method? Thanks.
Hello there my friend and thanks for taking the time to watch my vid and for your valuable feedback. I empathize with your dilemma entirely and have personally endured the same trauma myself - the never ending and repetitive process of paint removal and sanding, etc. As the title suggests, I am not an expert - all of my videos are of a DIY nature. As far as I know, there are no short cuts and the process is simply as laborious as you have described. I'm really sorry but I am not aware of any other alternative methods. The only obvious pointer is to continue perusing Y-T vids or forums for further advice or guidance. If you do succeed in finding a less arduous process - let me know! Have a wonderful day where you are and apologies for the delay in responding my friend. Des
Using a heat gun on a door can be a slow laborious task. For a little extra you could pick up 2ltrs of Nitromors for around £29.00. Will remove the paint in minutes rather than hours. While the paint stripper is doing its job remove the hinges and handles and give them a clean as well. On my last job for a neighbour, there was so much accumulated paint on the hinges that I couldn't even see the screws. I did notice on your door that the door itself appeared to have been varnished. Paint never truly adheres to varnish so that may well be the reason for some of the paint flaking relatively easy.
I would very much like to have seen you doing the inside edge of the door panels. I have some pressed back chairs I may want to refinish and I'm not sure how well this method will work on a much more textured surface. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise with us.
Hello there and thanks for watching. On reflection, I'm really sorry that I omitted to show the edges / mouldings which are just as important and I should have covered this in the video.. Basically, I used a tool called a shave hook which has a number of edges on it to get in the grooves, etc. It does take a bit of practice but you soon get the hang of it. If you're not familiar with this tool I've added a link below to give you an idea. There are many different brands, this is just an example: www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-professional-Comb-ShAVehook-824/dp/B0001IW6EY/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1466282803&sr=1-3&keywords=combination+shavehook Please note that removing the paint from the mouldings is a little bit messy and the paint won't come off neatly at first. So, you need to go back over the mouldings 2 or 3 times with the correct edges and it'll come good. Just takes a little practice and patience. Good luck! Des
@@IDigAPony No joke.... Love how all these videos show the easy part and you watch the entire thing waiting for what you needed to see and then..... Wha, wha, wha..... Can I have my time back.
@@LSUjeepTJit’s every one too. I’ve seen maybe one video over the years that actually shows them working on the inside edges and it does not make it look easy…these videos just draw you in with the captions and that’s it.
You are the softest speaking Englishmen I have ever heard. I don't mean that negatively. Most are always sloppy drunk and loud. Thank you for showing this because we are buying a house this month and I see this type of work in the future. Whatever the Mrs wants if you know what I mean.
Hi there Nate. Thanks so much for dropping by buddy. We're not all loudmouth, ignorant scummers my friend. I wish you every happiness in your new home. May it be filled with laughter, happiness and love my friend. Best wishes, Des
Mate, very nice little video, great editing also and fantastic tips. I stumbled across this as a pre-bedtime browse! could have watched the whole 5 hours!
I'd try to go back to the original look. Beautiful. Great job. I was afraid to use a heat gun because I have a Victorian house and a lot of doors and woodwork that must be stripped. Maybe this isn't such a bad thing after all. Thanks
Great video, and very satisfying watching the paint come off. What about the fiddly bits, though - the beading on the outer edges of the panels - how do you strip those?
+Ryan Carr Good morning! Thanks for watching my friend. You're right about the weather. It certainly helps if you can get the doors outside so you've got some space around you and some fresh air. Hope your day is a good one. Take care.
For smaller jobs I mean.. Our kitchen table has a thin layer of paint on it but I thought it was solid wood but it’s not. I’m afraid I might damage the table top. Do you recommend any rubbing solutions to remove paint alternatively? I’m sure I’ve seen that somewhere.. I’m new to DIY and a bit nervous! Many thanks 😊
My pleasure. If you take your time and follow my tips your project should work out great. Don't forget - practice really does make perfect. Be patient! ATB, Des
I have an old outside utility door have use Nitramose no good at all using heat gun hardly moves anything really tough with new scrapper ! My goodness I’d be over the moon if my paint came off so easy ? Some odd ares did bubble or flake off but the rest sticks worse than glue ! Any suggestions other than getting it dipped before re painting again ! Ps my heat gun has metal oblong end as shown in video bubbles a tiny bit but move very very little amount of paint very exhausting as it like an inch at a time with still sone undercoat under ! Even though theres not many paint lairs maybe 3 ! Do I need a different type of heat gun as door is still on its hinges far to heavy to move or lay flat !
It was therapeutic watching you with the heat gun. Fantastic helpful video thank you. My front door wood work surround area, the paint is flaking away and desperately needs repainting, I'm thinking about the best way to re-do the whole process 1st time. I'm now looking at purchasing masonry white paint. Painting direct onto wood would I need undercoat to protect the longevity of the wood and lasting of the new paint.
wow,this is really useful. I spent so much on those bloody chemical strippers which still didn't do the job properly.. so I will certainly be trying this.. Thanks so much
Hello there my friend. I've tried the chemical strippers myself in the past which are extremely expensive as you say and nowhere near as effective in my opinion, plus so much more messy. Glad you liked the video and found it useful. Take care and best wishes, Des
Hi there Paul. Thanks so much for watching and for your feedback. I myself suffer from a severe anxiety disorder and from depression. That's one of the main reasons I like to challenge myself because it gives me a tremendous amount of satisfaction from seeing the results and from pushing myself. Please try not to let depression control you. Life has so many wonderful experiences to offer. A few years ago, I fought with my ego and went to see my GP about this. He prescribed me sertraline which changed my life once my body adjusted to it. It took several months. If you're not on any medication and other options don't work for you, don't hesitate to get some medical help my friend. Very best wishes, Des
Iv just done one door burnt inside had stain and varnish on top a 15 glass paneled door took me a motto burn the varnish off and a further few hours sand out the stain paint stripper didn't touch it. But stripped now and applied three coat of satan varnish first coat thinned down. I used yacht varnish wears better in side .. it was a labour of love took many working hours but really pleased with the fi ish.great vid.
My friend, you have the patience of a saint. I'm glad you were so pleased with the finished result. Would have been a bit of a bummer to find out you didn't like it after all that effort. Stay safe and well. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 yea took a good half a day to burn the parish off with a heat gun all the glazeing beading and rails and stills and about three to four hours sanding and it did come up great I'm in the process of fitting doir furniture was brass but changing to polished chrome again great vid nice one.
Thank you very much. Quick simple process explained for the heatgun that is. On the liquid cleaners i recommend one i came across by chance at homedepot a long time ago it's called : CITRISTRIP and it is color orange; a gel type and i think you would like that product. I'm gonna combine it with the heatgun(i just bought) in a small area to see if time removal is quicker. Thanks again.
the 'gunk' is varnish, I expect it is pre ww2, paints do not stick to it very well, thats why it chips off so easily. Gloss will bond well to undercoat and primer
No idea mate, I'm not a scientist lol. If your heat gun has a low temperature start with that and increase to high and moderate the distance as appropriate if low doesn't work. ATB, Des
Please, NEVER use a heat gun to strip old paints. They reach temperatures which are in the range that lead in a lot of old paints can vaporize. From the squared jagged edges when he is chipping, that is looking like it has lead in it. An infrared tool is the safer alternative, with lower temps that still work just as well. I personally know someone who was lead poisoned doing exactly what he is doing, and it was not a good experience.
Hello there. I never would have considered that if I'm completely honest. However, a decent face mask/respirator, such as, FFP3 will easily protect against that. Stay safe and well, Des
Great Video, Thanks. I done all my kitchen cabinets and the kitchen door using a "Heat Gun" It's the way to go. I had tried using a "Paint Stripper" but to me, it takes to long.
ty! question- i am doing wood trim in a bedroom room... there is, like, a varnish under the two coats. it smells... is there another step i have to do BEFORE sanding? does using this machine ALWAZ smell so awful or is it due to the varnish?
Hello there and so sorry for delay in getting back to you. I've come across this before myself and it's a rancid smell for sure! I just remove as much as I can with heat gun, sand it down and put a couple of coats of primer and undercoat on. It sometimes even smells when you've done that but this disappears when you put top coats on. Hope that helps. Again, so sorry for delay in responding. Have a lovely day. Des
Nice video, I see the paint you removed is oil based but can this method be used to remove water paint as well from wood? and how did you remove the paint from the 3 step edges.
So sorry for late response - please accept my apologies. Water based paint can be removed absolutely fine using this method. Regarding the mouldings - please check out my response to similar queries by others below. Basically, you need a 'Shavehook'. Links provided. Hope this helps, Des
Hi there. Basically because there was no proper key on the door. In other words the surface of the door had not been prepped/roughed up sufficiently for the paint to stick to it properly. Hope that helps. Des
Dont forget if you have any notts in the wood use shellac knotting solution to seal the knots.. also use a bin primer then undercoat then gloss nibbling down inbetween
did you use a special tool for the recessed panel edges? I have a similar door and am struggling with getting the paint out of the grooves without causing slivers or gouges.
Well that was a soothing video 😀 was just about to do this on some old door frames have a heat gun for doin vinyl wraps are they ok to run for longer periods or can this cause damage to the gun
OK, really dumb question alert. Super-helpful video - for a front door, must you take it off its hinges and strip flat? And if you do, in order to then prime and paint it, what do people do for a front door in the meantime? I’m guessing this is going to take me about three days (front door has many coats of flaming paint on it, house 1829) and can’t leave the front doorway open... Thanks for all help/info/advice!
You were lucky. The latex paint had not adhered and the heat gun worked, but sometimes all the heat gun does is turn everything to gunk. If there is an undercoat of laquer or varnish, it's usually very easy. If the latex was on bare wood with a primer, quite a different story. It's well worth trying your method, thanks.
this is so helpful. thanks for taking the time to put this up! looking to do this on doors and mouldings painted thick white. got any suggestions for type of scraper?
Hello there my friend and thanks for your positive comments. The scraper needs to have a little flex but not too much. If it is too stiff it may dig in the timber. No specific manufacturer in mind. To do the moulding you need what's called a Shave Hook. See in comments below to others where I've put a link. Hope this helps, Des
Problem with typical paint instructional videos, is they fail to mention flaws that in real life will throw 10 percent of people into a tail spin,and 90 percent of the professionals (whose customers see video perfection, not being reality). Thus 3 or 4 drywall coats still mean imperfections. Frog tape never universally works in any room, and often refuses to work at all. Paint and primer still needs 3 coats. Built in primer spackling still needs primer. Deck strippers dont work on oils. Infrared does not leave new wood surface. Mouldings on these doors will always look rough. The subsequent body shop work needed to satisfy a paying customer may take days, even if stripping takes a minute,which it won't.
Now I know what’s more interesting than watching paint dry - someone stripping it One of my least fave jobs, but so worth the effort Hope you enjoyed your lunch :)
Planning on stripping some 1940s doors .. at first I thought it would be easier to buy a new door but after watching this I think it will be better to put some effort in and satisfying to strip them use this process Thanks 👍🏽 Although I have a feeling there will be 11 coats of gloss to get through 😩😩
Hi there. I imagine those doors will be far better quality than anything you can buy at a reasonable price today. If you get away with 11 coats of paint you're doing well ... lol. enjoy! Des
Hi. Most eother have high or low settings. Start with low setting and then hotter as you speed up and properly guage how much time you need to spend in one place. Des
Hello there. I'm sorry, I should have covered this in the video. You need a tool called a Shave Hook which has a number of edges on it to get in the grooves, etc. It does take a bit of practice but you soon get the hang of it. If you're not familiar with this tool I've added a link below to give you an idea. There are many different brands, this is just an example: www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-professional-Comb-ShAVehook-824/dp/B0001IW6EY/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1466282803&sr=1-3&keywords=combination+shavehook Removing the pain from the mouldings is a little bit messy as you don't have a flat surface, just go back over it 2 or 3 times with the correct edges and it'll come good. Good luck, Des
Hi there. If you already have the heat gun then use that as the chemical paint removers tend to be quite expensive so why pay for them? However, the main problem with hand rails is that they tend to be curved and if you're not careful it's easy to gouge bits out. Whichever method employed you will definitely need to sand down when completed. Stay safe and well, Des
I've tried the chemical method after weighing up pros cons electric usage plus initial outlay possibility of cheapo burning out etc vs cost of a few bottles of chemical paint stripper both can be messy to strip but with chemical ive noticed it can be a layer by layer depending on thickness of paint
Hi there. Agree with all of your comments above having tried them myself in the past. I'm sure they have a use but not with the typical DIY stuff I get involved with. Take care, Des
I don't see why not. After all you're simply melting the paint. However, I've never tried it before and I don't know what the outcome would be. There maybe other factors to consider which I'm not aware of, such as, heat transfer on the metal which may impact in some way. Take care, Des
Great stuff. Hope it will give you endless hours of pleasure and save you some cash. Just be patient, take your time and you'll get the hang of it in no time. Good luck, Des
21centurycaveman thanks ! i havent got to test it out yet, i live in apts so dont know where to do it, im assuming it wouldnt be good to try it indoors(idk how much the heat speads so dont want to set fire to anything, dont have attachments yet)
I've got my door removed and outside. I don't want spend heat gun funds in a lead test kit, so I'm going to assume my door has lead paint. Do you suppose doing this outside with a mask and fresh air would make the lead fumes a non-issue?
Damn it man, that never crossed my mind. I just a 120 year old door and I have been using paint stripper and lots of it and it has been 4 days now. Just on one side trying to get that damn paint off. Now for the other side I will use my heat gun.
Hi there. This is a rather time consuming process I'm afraid and if you try to rush it you'll make a mess and only have to go over it again. If time is in short supply and you don't mind paying someone to strip them for you, you could always consider having them dipped in acid - check it out on the Net. Another option maybe? ATB, Des
My old large Victorian doors look like they would not peel as easy as this - would a heat gun be effective? They look like they've been painted 20 times over the years - very thick paint
Great video (loved the reference to "The Office"), but could you explain how you dealt with the moldings? Is there a special tool to scrape moldings with a heat gun? Thanks!
Good evening and thanks very much for watching. Really sorry that I omitted to include dealing with the mouldings. Basically, you need a tool called a combination shavehook which will enable you to deal with all of the angles. Please see link below for an example of this tool if you are not already familiar with it: www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-professional-Comb-ShAVehook-824/dp/B0001IW6EY/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1466282803&sr=1-3&keywords=combination+shavehook Although you can get them a bit cheaper it's always best to pay a little more as the build and finish quality will be better and will therefore give you a better finished result. Hope this helps. Best wishes, Des.
When I did that, the paint came off in little dried up bits in a patchy manner, leaving a lot of it still stuck to the door, it didn't come off in nice big strips like yours did.
A very powerful heat gun is needed to get the paint to ' melt' . i tried it with 1600 watt heat gun and it did nothing . so buy or rent something that exceeds 1600 watts
Hello there and thanks for watching. I'm sure you're not the first person to have considered this. However, the hairdryer won't reach a high enough temperature and it will burn out. Hope this helps. Take care, Des
Hi there. You could always try a hair dryer I suppose (nothing ventured .....) but I don't think it will be hot enough and there's a chance that the motor may simply burn out with extended use. I'm sorry but I don't know enough about rubbing solutions to comment. I'm not sure what you're going to do with the table but can you simply sand it down with some sandpaper (rough to smooth) and try that? Best wishes, Des
Cool video,but i could not stand the noise of heat gun for hours at a time so i bought myself a gas torch from amazon for 6 quid, it uses the camping gas cans ans is brilliant.
Seeing all the colors of paint layered made me laugh so hard, that is exactly what our old solid-wood doors are like right now (cracking paint included). Do you think this would work as well without the concentrating attachment on the end of the heat gun, or would the heat be too diffused to be effective? Thank you so much for sharing this video, it makes it feel much less intimidating to see another DIY-er pull of this project with such ease!
Hello there. In my opinion the attachment is pretty much necessary as it does indeed spread the heat evenly as you've suggested. A friend of mine recently tried thiu without the attachment and it didn't work very well I'm afraid. Just take your time, build your confidence up and you'll be fine. Anybody can do this with a little practice. ck it out on the net. Be warned though - it s rather time consuming. You may slo wish to consider getting them 'dipped' to save you time but there is obviously a cost involved. Best wishes, Des
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I realize it's now 2022 -- but just wanted to drop a note that this video was very helpful in all the small details. Thank you so much for taking the time to film and post this back in the day :)
You're very welcome indeed! It's really nice to receive some positive feedback regardless of how far back they go because it means that the effort put into shooting and editing the vid was worthwhile. Have a great weekend where you are. Thanks again, Des
Very helpful for me. I just wonder how long it takes?0
Watching that scraper slide seamlessly under that paint satisfied my entire soul 🤣😂
Ha, ha. It was emotional for me too
it cleanse my mind and soul. Lol
@@21stcenturycaveman33 ⁿ
Impressive video. I cant belive you did this all by your self. You recorded everything perfectly showing the process. Nice edit of the video to. Thank you.
Thank you so much for taking the time to watch this video and for your very kind comments. Very much appreciated. Take care, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 how long did it take to remove the paint from one door?
Great video! All my doors are from 1921 with loads of layers. Thanks for sharing, now I can finally use the heat gun. :)
Thank you for your kind words Jenna. Glad the video helped. Those old doors will probably be so much better than modern ones and have so much more character. Go for it! Take care, Des
Hey Des., Thank you for the video. I've been restoring my house built in the 30s. Due to time limitations, I've had to split into separate projects and tackle them individually as time permits. Several of the tasks include stripping several layers of paint on wood surfaces such as base moldings, window & door casings as well as the doors. I've been using a heat gun and found it to be quicker and the most effective way to strip away old paint. But even with the gun it seemingly takes forever to accomplish one room. I suppose patience really is a virtue and it's certainly a requirement because it's such a tedious never ending job. I have 6 inch casings plus molding above each door and window. After stripping & sanding several boards I felt it was just too much and was afraid I wouldn't be satisfied with rustic look of the old boards... so I painted one board and rehung it to it's proper place. It looked brand new. But then I decided to try one casing with stain just for comparison. It preserved the antique look. Not a look of brand new. And any of the tiny flaws just gave it character ... antique that had been well cared for. That lead me to choose the much more difficult course and go with staining even though I had foolishly already repainted one of the boards. But here's my problem... even after the paint has been, let's say approximately 99.8% removed... there is still the task of more sanding for a smooth surface that's also clean enough for staining. Meaning picking away paint in tiny nail holes, cracks or imperfections. And yet with that sanding still remains the problem of gunk rapidly building up on the sand paper ...which impedes progress while also making it expensive to achieve the desired quality, or ready for stain. Do you have any suggestions for an easier method? Thanks.
Hello there my friend and thanks for taking the time to watch my vid and for your valuable feedback. I empathize with your dilemma entirely and have personally endured the same trauma myself - the never ending and repetitive process of paint removal and sanding, etc. As the title suggests, I am not an expert - all of my videos are of a DIY nature. As far as I know, there are no short cuts and the process is simply as laborious as you have described. I'm really sorry but I am not aware of any other alternative methods. The only obvious pointer is to continue perusing Y-T vids or forums for further advice or guidance. If you do succeed in finding a less arduous process - let me know! Have a wonderful day where you are and apologies for the delay in responding my friend. Des
Very good video; hit everything, was so thorough, that it included ''taking a lunch break''. No wasted time here.
Thanks so much! Workmen need calories! Lol. ATB, Des
Using a heat gun on a door can be a slow laborious task. For a little extra you could pick up 2ltrs of Nitromors for around £29.00. Will remove the paint in minutes rather than hours. While the paint stripper is doing its job remove the hinges and handles and give them a clean as well. On my last job for a neighbour, there was so much accumulated paint on the hinges that I couldn't even see the screws.
I did notice on your door that the door itself appeared to have been varnished. Paint never truly adheres to varnish so that may well be the reason for some of the paint flaking relatively easy.
I would very much like to have seen you doing the inside edge of the door panels. I have some pressed back chairs I may want to refinish and I'm not sure how well this method will work on a much more textured surface. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise with us.
Hello there and thanks for watching. On reflection, I'm really sorry that I omitted to show the edges / mouldings which are just as important and I should have covered this in the video.. Basically, I used a tool called a shave hook which has a number of edges on it to get in the grooves, etc. It does take a bit of practice but you soon get the hang of it. If you're not familiar with this tool I've added a link below to give you an idea. There are many different brands, this is just an example:
www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-professional-Comb-ShAVehook-824/dp/B0001IW6EY/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1466282803&sr=1-3&keywords=combination+shavehook
Please note that removing the paint from the mouldings is a little bit messy and the paint won't come off neatly at first. So, you need to go back over the mouldings 2 or 3 times with the correct edges and it'll come good. Just takes a little practice and patience. Good luck! Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 The flat surfaces are the easiest part, it's the edgings and the moldings that I really wanted to see...
@@IDigAPony No joke.... Love how all these videos show the easy part and you watch the entire thing waiting for what you needed to see and then..... Wha, wha, wha..... Can I have my time back.
@@LSUjeepTJit’s every one too. I’ve seen maybe one video over the years that actually shows them working on the inside edges and it does not make it look easy…these videos just draw you in with the captions and that’s it.
You are the softest speaking Englishmen I have ever heard. I don't mean that negatively. Most are always sloppy drunk and loud.
Thank you for showing this because we are buying a house this month and I see this type of work in the future. Whatever the Mrs wants if you know what I mean.
Hi there Nate. Thanks so much for dropping by buddy. We're not all loudmouth, ignorant scummers my friend. I wish you every happiness in your new home. May it be filled with laughter, happiness and love my friend. Best wishes, Des
Mate, very nice little video, great editing also and fantastic tips. I stumbled across this as a pre-bedtime browse! could have watched the whole 5 hours!
Ha, ha. Thanks for the positive feedback my friend. Glad you liked it. Therapy for all! Take care, Des
I loved your video! Especially the lunch part! Clever! Thanks for all the great tips!
Thank you so much for your kind support. Best wishes, Des
I'd try to go back to the original look. Beautiful. Great job. I was afraid to use a heat gun because I have a Victorian house and a lot of doors and woodwork that must be stripped. Maybe this isn't such a bad thing after all. Thanks
Great video, and very satisfying watching the paint come off. What about the fiddly bits, though - the beading on the outer edges of the panels - how do you strip those?
I appreciate the tips you have typed in at the relevant points on the video - very useful. Thanks.
My pleasure Sir. Hope it helps. ATB, Des
I have seen some doors at my friends house of simalare paint type, if it flakes, can that be easy scraped off with simple heat?
Hi there. Sorry about delay in responding. Yes it can be scraped off quite easily. Hope that helps. Des
Watching D.I.Y is a lot easier than doing it! Thank you for an informative and satisfying video
My pleasure. ATB, Des
Great video, I got a dewalt heat gun as a giftt and been meaning to do the doors for ages!waiting for some nice weather ;)
+Ryan Carr Good morning! Thanks for watching my friend. You're right about the weather. It certainly helps if you can get the doors outside so you've got some space around you and some fresh air. Hope your day is a good one. Take care.
You too!
For smaller jobs I mean.. Our kitchen table has a thin layer of paint on it but I thought it was solid wood but it’s not. I’m afraid I might damage the table top. Do you recommend any rubbing solutions to remove paint alternatively? I’m sure I’ve seen that somewhere.. I’m new to DIY and a bit nervous! Many thanks 😊
Thanks for this video. I am off to buy my heat gun now. !
My pleasure. If you take your time and follow my tips your project should work out great. Don't forget - practice really does make perfect. Be patient! ATB, Des
I have an old outside utility door have use Nitramose no good at all using heat gun hardly moves anything really tough with new scrapper ! My goodness I’d be over the moon if my paint came off so easy ? Some odd ares did bubble or flake off but the rest sticks worse than glue ! Any suggestions other than getting it dipped before re painting again ! Ps my heat gun has metal oblong end as shown in video bubbles a tiny bit but move very very little amount of paint very exhausting as it like an inch at a time with still sone undercoat under ! Even though theres not many paint lairs maybe 3 ! Do I need a different type of heat gun as door is still on its hinges far to heavy to move or lay flat !
It was therapeutic watching you with the heat gun. Fantastic helpful video thank you. My front door wood work surround area, the paint is flaking away and desperately needs repainting, I'm thinking about the best way to re-do the whole process 1st time. I'm now looking at purchasing masonry white paint. Painting direct onto wood would I need undercoat to protect the longevity of the wood and lasting of the new paint.
Yes, for sure. Don't use masonry paint though - use proper wood paint instead for areas like these. Des
2:03 how do u edit like that
Thorough and well presented tutorial, thanks!
You're very welcome! Des
How did you do the detail bits?
Please tell me how to de dust a door as can't sort it out
wow,this is really useful. I spent so much on those bloody chemical strippers which still didn't do the job properly.. so I will certainly be trying this.. Thanks so much
Hello there my friend. I've tried the chemical strippers myself in the past which are extremely expensive as you say and nowhere near as effective in my opinion, plus so much more messy. Glad you liked the video and found it useful. Take care and best wishes, Des
Did it work? Im having same issue with a 100 years of layers
i could watch this all day , i,m actually looking forward to doing the doors depression has kept me from doing for around 4-5 years now. thanks
Hi there Paul. Thanks so much for watching and for your feedback. I myself suffer from a severe anxiety disorder and from depression. That's one of the main reasons I like to challenge myself because it gives me a tremendous amount of satisfaction from seeing the results and from pushing myself. Please try not to let depression control you. Life has so many wonderful experiences to offer. A few years ago, I fought with my ego and went to see my GP about this. He prescribed me sertraline which changed my life once my body adjusted to it. It took several months. If you're not on any medication and other options don't work for you, don't hesitate to get some medical help my friend. Very best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 ahh good to know i,m not alone in my darkness
Iv just done one door burnt inside had stain and varnish on top a 15 glass paneled door took me a motto burn the varnish off and a further few hours sand out the stain paint stripper didn't touch it. But stripped now and applied three coat of satan varnish first coat thinned down. I used yacht varnish wears better in side .. it was a labour of love took many working hours but really pleased with the fi ish.great vid.
My friend, you have the patience of a saint. I'm glad you were so pleased with the finished result. Would have been a bit of a bummer to find out you didn't like it after all that effort. Stay safe and well. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 yea took a good half a day to burn the parish off with a heat gun all the glazeing beading and rails and stills and about three to four hours sanding and it did come up great I'm in the process of fitting doir furniture was brass but changing to polished chrome again great vid nice one.
Thank you very much.
Quick simple process explained for the heatgun that is.
On the liquid cleaners i recommend one i came across by chance at homedepot a long time ago
it's called : CITRISTRIP and it is color orange; a gel type and i think you would like that product. I'm gonna combine it with the heatgun(i just bought) in a small area to see if time removal is quicker. Thanks again.
My pleasure. Hope it works out for you. Best wishes, Des
I tried this and found it works quite well. First use heat gun and then subsequent layers, use citristrip.
@@Xblackhawks19 Thank you for sharing your process, we are about to undertake this particular project as well!
the 'gunk' is varnish, I expect it is pre ww2, paints do not stick to it very well, thats why it chips off so easily. Gloss will bond well to undercoat and primer
Thank you for your valuable feedback my friend. Des
Rather than sanding, try scrubbing it with a Scotchbrite pad and denatured (ethyl) alcohol. That preserves the patina of the aged wood.
OMG that was so satisfying to watch you peel off the dry paint!
Lol. It was good therapy for me as well. ATB, Des
What temperature would you recommend for getting paint off of a wood deck?
No idea mate, I'm not a scientist lol. If your heat gun has a low temperature start with that and increase to high and moderate the distance as appropriate if low doesn't work. ATB, Des
Please, NEVER use a heat gun to strip old paints. They reach temperatures which are in the range that lead in a lot of old paints can vaporize. From the squared jagged edges when he is chipping, that is looking like it has lead in it. An infrared tool is the safer alternative, with lower temps that still work just as well. I personally know someone who was lead poisoned doing exactly what he is doing, and it was not a good experience.
Hello there. I never would have considered that if I'm completely honest. However, a decent face mask/respirator, such as, FFP3 will easily protect against that. Stay safe and well, Des
This is so satisfying to watch!
Ha, ha! Glad you liked it. Have a great day where you are. From your online therapist :?)
Great Video, Thanks. I done all my kitchen cabinets and the kitchen door using a "Heat Gun" It's the way to go. I had tried using a "Paint Stripper" but to me, it takes to long.
Hi there and thanks for watching. I've found that this method is the most effective and I'm glad that it works for you also. Best wishes, Des
This video is great. Thanks for making this
My pleasure. Thanks for watching! Des
ty! question- i am doing wood trim in a bedroom room... there is, like, a varnish under the two coats. it smells... is there another step i have to do BEFORE sanding?
does using this machine ALWAZ smell so awful or is it due to the varnish?
Hello there and so sorry for delay in getting back to you. I've come across this before myself and it's a rancid smell for sure! I just remove as much as I can with heat gun, sand it down and put a couple of coats of primer and undercoat on. It sometimes even smells when you've done that but this disappears when you put top coats on. Hope that helps. Again, so sorry for delay in responding. Have a lovely day. Des
TY!TY!TY!...
u are awesome and have a new follower!
Thank you very much!
Nice video, I see the paint you removed is oil based but can this method be used to remove water paint as well from wood? and how did you remove the paint from the 3 step edges.
So sorry for late response - please accept my apologies. Water based paint can be removed absolutely fine using this method. Regarding the mouldings - please check out my response to similar queries by others below. Basically, you need a 'Shavehook'. Links provided. Hope this helps, Des
what is the reason why the paint did not stack to the door ??
Hi there. Basically because there was no proper key on the door. In other words the surface of the door had not been prepped/roughed up sufficiently for the paint to stick to it properly. Hope that helps. Des
cool! love the heat gun technique! thanks for the video.
My pleasure. Des
Dont forget if you have any notts in the wood use shellac knotting solution to seal the knots.. also use a bin primer then undercoat then gloss nibbling down inbetween
did you use a special tool for the recessed panel edges? I have a similar door and am struggling with getting the paint out of the grooves without causing slivers or gouges.
Plse see comments section - covered there. Des
Can you tell me how to remove bad odor and strong smell of slats found in the disposal on the street?
???
"Don't forget to stop for lunch."
Excellent! Really helped me a lot. Thank you!!!
whats that thing called on ur heat gun?
Not sure my friend. It's simply one of the attachments which comes with the heat gun. Sorry, D
Well that was a soothing video 😀 was just about to do this on some old door frames have a heat gun for doin vinyl wraps are they ok to run for longer periods or can this cause damage to the gun
Hi there and thanks for watching. I only have experience of a decorator's heat gun I'm afraid. Sorry, Des
OK, really dumb question alert. Super-helpful video - for a front door, must you take it off its hinges and strip flat? And if you do, in order to then prime and paint it, what do people do for a front door in the meantime? I’m guessing this is going to take me about three days (front door has many coats of flaming paint on it, house 1829) and can’t leave the front doorway open... Thanks for all help/info/advice!
Hiya buddy. Not a dumb question at all mate. Strip the door in-situ. The one I did was an internal door so it didn;t matter. Best wishes, Des
You were lucky. The latex paint had not adhered and the heat gun worked, but sometimes all the heat gun does is turn everything to gunk. If there is an undercoat of laquer or varnish, it's usually very easy. If the latex was on bare wood with a primer, quite a different story. It's well worth trying your method, thanks.
Thank you for your observations and feedback which are very much appreciated. Take care, Des
what sort of doors are they
Hi there. They are wooden doors but not sure what type. They were in the property when we bought it. Sorry. ATB, Des
this is so helpful. thanks for taking the time to put this up! looking to do this on doors and mouldings painted thick white. got any suggestions for type of scraper?
Hello there my friend and thanks for your positive comments. The scraper needs to have a little flex but not too much. If it is too stiff it may dig in the timber. No specific manufacturer in mind. To do the moulding you need what's called a Shave Hook. See in comments below to others where I've put a link. Hope this helps, Des
nice! thanks for the reply!
Problem with typical paint instructional videos, is they fail to mention flaws that in real life will throw 10 percent of people into a tail spin,and 90 percent of the professionals (whose customers see video perfection, not being reality). Thus 3 or 4 drywall coats still mean imperfections. Frog tape never universally works in any room, and often refuses to work at all. Paint and primer still needs 3 coats. Built in primer spackling still needs primer. Deck strippers dont work on oils. Infrared does not leave new wood surface. Mouldings on these doors will always look rough. The subsequent body shop work needed to satisfy a paying customer may take days, even if stripping takes a minute,which it won't.
Now I know what’s more interesting than watching paint dry - someone stripping it
One of my least fave jobs, but so worth the effort
Hope you enjoyed your lunch :)
Ha, ha! Thanks for watching my friend. ATB, Des
Great vid. Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to share your tips 👍 🙂
My pleasure! Des
Great video, thanks for posting!
My pleasure. Hope it helped. Best, Des
Planning on stripping some 1940s doors .. at first I thought it would be easier to buy a new door but after watching this I think it will be better to put some effort in and satisfying to strip them use this process
Thanks 👍🏽
Although I have a feeling there will be 11 coats of gloss to get through 😩😩
Hi there. I imagine those doors will be far better quality than anything you can buy at a reasonable price today. If you get away with 11 coats of paint you're doing well ... lol. enjoy! Des
What temperature should we set on a heat gun?
Hi. Most eother have high or low settings. Start with low setting and then hotter as you speed up and properly guage how much time you need to spend in one place. Des
Hi... how did you get in around the edges of the panelling?
cheers
Hello there. I'm sorry, I should have covered this in the video. You need a tool called a Shave Hook which has a number of edges on it to get in the grooves, etc. It does take a bit of practice but you soon get the hang of it. If you're not familiar with this tool I've added a link below to give you an idea. There are many different brands, this is just an example:
www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-professional-Comb-ShAVehook-824/dp/B0001IW6EY/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1466282803&sr=1-3&keywords=combination+shavehook
Removing the pain from the mouldings is a little bit messy as you don't have a flat surface, just go back over it 2 or 3 times with the correct edges and it'll come good.
Good luck, Des
Cheers Des. I'll give it a try. 🖒
The surface nozzle in my view is a mandatory accessory which should be used alongside the heat tool for optimising the air flow on to the surface
I'd like to see how to do those curved sections on the inset panels
Yes, you're right. That would have been helpful for sure. I'll remember next time. Best wishes, Des
I only watched the video to see how to do the bevels inside the panels. :-(
Was it difficult to remove the paint from the beading on the inside panels?
A special scraper for molding is very helpful. Different bits for different shapes.
what's for lunch?
That was so dang satisfying
Lol. It was indeed my friend. Could do it all over again. ATB, Des
them earlex tools are quite good ive got a wallpaper stripper one made in
GB too i think ?
Hello there. For what they cost I think they are good value for money and I haven't been disappointed. ATB, Des
Thank you for taking time to share
My pleasure! Best wishes, Des
Grabbing a bite was fantastic! Greetings from Michigan.
Back at you from the UK my friend. Hope all is good where you are buddy. Take care and best wishes, Des
Would have liked to see how you managed the panel molding.
Understand. Apologies for that ATB, Des
Nice video, thank you!. Would you recommend a heat gun to remove old paint from a wooden rail handle? or rather paint remover (chemical)?
Hi there. If you already have the heat gun then use that as the chemical paint removers tend to be quite expensive so why pay for them? However, the main problem with hand rails is that they tend to be curved and if you're not careful it's easy to gouge bits out. Whichever method employed you will definitely need to sand down when completed. Stay safe and well, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thank you. I will give it a go with the heat gun. It should work I hope.
I've tried the chemical method after weighing up pros cons electric usage plus initial outlay possibility of cheapo burning out etc vs cost of a few bottles of chemical paint stripper both can be messy to strip but with chemical ive noticed it can be a layer by layer depending on thickness of paint
Hi there. Agree with all of your comments above having tried them myself in the past. I'm sure they have a use but not with the typical DIY stuff I get involved with. Take care, Des
Must I remove the door from the hinges?
No. Remove the hinges from the door, ATB, Des
Great information, thank you!
My pleasure.
thanks for sharing my good bro!
My pleasure. Thank you for watching! Best wishes, Des
Do you think a heat gun would work on metal doors?
I don't see why not. After all you're simply melting the paint. However, I've never tried it before and I don't know what the outcome would be. There maybe other factors to consider which I'm not aware of, such as, heat transfer on the metal which may impact in some way. Take care, Des
nice! just bought a heatgun the other day and looking for things i can do with it, really cool, think it is a good investment for sure
Great stuff. Hope it will give you endless hours of pleasure and save you some cash. Just be patient, take your time and you'll get the hang of it in no time. Good luck, Des
21centurycaveman thanks ! i havent got to test it out yet, i live in apts so dont know where to do it, im assuming it wouldnt be good to try it indoors(idk how much the heat speads so dont want to set fire to anything, dont have attachments yet)
It's fine to do it indoors but you will need plenty of ventilation. Also, the smoke will set off any fire, carbon monoxide alarms. Take care, D
21centurycaveman lol ok looks like i wont be doing it here then 😂 thanks for the heads up
I've got my door removed and outside. I don't want spend heat gun funds in a lead test kit, so I'm going to assume my door has lead paint. Do you suppose doing this outside with a mask and fresh air would make the lead fumes a non-issue?
Hi there. Personally, if you have a decent mask, such as, an FFP2 or FFP3 (or equivalent) I wouldn't be unduly concerned and would go for it. ATB, Des
Damn it man, that never crossed my mind. I just a 120 year old door and I have been using paint stripper and lots of it and it has been 4 days now. Just on one side trying to get that damn paint off. Now for the other side I will use my heat gun.
Lol. Hopefullyshould be a lot quicker mate, ATB, des
WOW! 5 hours to do one door! I have a whole house to paint, is there a more faster heat gun?
Hi there. This is a rather time consuming process I'm afraid and if you try to rush it you'll make a mess and only have to go over it again. If time is in short supply and you don't mind paying someone to strip them for you, you could always consider having them dipped in acid - check it out on the Net. Another option maybe? ATB, Des
My old large Victorian doors look like they would not peel as easy as this - would a heat gun be effective? They look like they've been painted 20 times over the years - very thick paint
Should work a treat! Take your time, don't rush and follow the steps in this vid. ATB, Des
Thank you
Great video (loved the reference to "The Office"), but could you explain how you dealt with the moldings? Is there a special tool to scrape moldings with a heat gun? Thanks!
Good evening and thanks very much for watching. Really sorry that I omitted to include dealing with the mouldings. Basically, you need a tool called a combination shavehook which will enable you to deal with all of the angles. Please see link below for an example of this tool if you are not already familiar with it:
www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-professional-Comb-ShAVehook-824/dp/B0001IW6EY/ref=sr_1_3?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1466282803&sr=1-3&keywords=combination+shavehook
Although you can get them a bit cheaper it's always best to pay a little more as the build and finish quality will be better and will therefore give you a better finished result.
Hope this helps.
Best wishes, Des.
Brilliant. Didn't know these existed but suspected as much, and would never have guessed they're called "shavehooks"; thank you so much for the tip!
My pleasure. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 that was my question too, thank you, this looks amazing!!
Thanks for the tip.... a lot better then chemical!
I would say so. Thanks for stopping by. Des
Very informative thank-you,and no sad music ,cheers,Kev,
My pleasure Kev. ATB, Des
How about electricity bill after the paint strip ? It was expensive ?
Didn't bother checking tbh. ATB, Des
How about the inside edges??
Please see comments section. Thanks, Des
When I did that, the paint came off in little dried up bits in a patchy manner, leaving a lot of it still stuck to the door, it didn't come off in nice big strips like yours did.
Practice makes perfect my friend! Keep trying and you'll get there. Take care, Des
A very powerful heat gun is needed to get the paint to ' melt' . i tried it with 1600 watt heat gun and it did nothing . so buy or rent something that exceeds 1600 watts
is it possible to use a hairdryer for the same job?
Hello there and thanks for watching. I'm sure you're not the first person to have considered this. However, the hairdryer won't reach a high enough temperature and it will burn out. Hope this helps. Take care, Des
a decorator once used a hairdryer on my walls to get off some aluminium wall paper which was supposed to be there for insulation.
Leila Benamor
Would you use a heat gun instead of a hairdryer on your hair?
I watch these video just to see the paint being stripped soooooo satisfying
Ha, ha. Therapy indeed my friend. Best wishes, Des
How long did it take to strip the door?
Great and a very helpful film!Thank you very much! ;-)
That's my pleasure. Thank you very much for watching and have a great weekend. Take care, Des
Well-demonstrated ! Thank you for sharing 🙏🙏🙏
Glad it was helpful!
personally I would put a nice dark stain on the door (if it isent already stained) and polyurethane and let the beautiful woodgrain texture be seen
OSCHA says keep temp of gun under 700 degrees and use respirators with supply air gear..
i wonder would a hair dryer be as effective? Thanks 😊
Hi there. You could always try a hair dryer I suppose (nothing ventured .....) but I don't think it will be hot enough and there's a chance that the motor may simply burn out with extended use. I'm sorry but I don't know enough about rubbing solutions to comment. I'm not sure what you're going to do with the table but can you simply sand it down with some sandpaper (rough to smooth) and try that? Best wishes, Des
So satisfying
Glad you think so! ATB, Des
what heat was the gun?
Only 2 temps on this gun - high and low. I did this on high. Des
Loved your video! Thank you
You are very welcome! Des
Cool video,but i could not stand the noise of heat gun for hours at a time so i bought myself a gas torch from amazon for 6 quid, it uses the camping gas cans ans is brilliant.
Seeing all the colors of paint layered made me laugh so hard, that is exactly what our old solid-wood doors are like right now (cracking paint included). Do you think this would work as well without the concentrating attachment on the end of the heat gun, or would the heat be too diffused to be effective?
Thank you so much for sharing this video, it makes it feel much less intimidating to see another DIY-er pull of this project with such ease!
Hello there. In my opinion the attachment is pretty much necessary as it does indeed spread the heat evenly as you've suggested. A friend of mine recently tried thiu without the attachment and it didn't work very well I'm afraid. Just take your time, build your confidence up and you'll be fine. Anybody can do this with a little practice. ck it out on the net. Be warned though - it s rather time consuming. You may slo wish to consider getting them 'dipped' to save you time but there is obviously a cost involved. Best wishes, Des
Ye old is GOLD - you'll never see stain flake off 👌
Really enjoyable video. Thanks. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for dropping by. Des
Thanks so much. Super helpful!
You're welcome! Des
i reckon that had just coats of gloss no undercoat no primer cause oil undercoat sticks well enough without sanding