Proud to be your 730th subscriber. Can not believe you don't have more! Not only is this exactly the thorough walkthrough of this process that I was frustrated in not finding, it's also filled with sensible reasoning as regards to why you check certain boxes and choose certain values. This gives the viewer the knowledge and confidence to experiment with the parameters on their own. Very well done and looking forward to watching your other content! Love from Sweden
Thank you for this most informative tutorial! Your in depth presintation held my interest and gave me a good starting point. The program didn't save the stack when I had save anchor checked. I'm sure it was just beta blues. Thanks again!
Hmm. The only time I have seen that is when accidentally forgetting to enter a number of frames or a percentage to stack. It will happily go through the surface stabilization and then the alignment phase but produce no stack.
Only 1/2 way through the post and I had to stop to say thanks. Really appreciate the deep dive into Autostakkert. First thing I need to do is upgrade to v4. Keep these coming.
Great Video, very very useful, Thank You. I do have a question though, Is it possible to switch the view between the different files that have been opened? Thanks
Yes. Under File, Open Data Browset. Navigate to the folder where the files are stored (make sure you have Sequences checked and not Images, which I believe is the default). Click on a filename and it will show it in the preview window.
Thank you for the detailed explanations! I'm dipping my toe into stacking of lunar images, using a modified Sony a6300 that has the Bayer filter array and IR cut filter removed. It is sensitive into the near IR. Without the RGB array it's a poor man's Leica monochrome camera. I image the very young crescent and seeing at high air mass is not as bad in IR. For a mirrorless camera, how should I change my work/processing flow? Thank you in advance.
First, do not take this as definitive. I have done quite a bit of lunar imaging with the Sony a6000, but not in a couple of years. Others might do things differently. But what I did was (a) shoot stills, not video (video resolution is very limited, and the video will be compressed; there is no raw video option on the Sony) (b) use an intervalometer or other remote shooting method to avoid camera shake (c) do NOT shoot bursts, as the shutter slap will ruin the shots (at least on the a6000 there is no way to use electronic shutter only) (d) shoot ISO100 at whatever exposure you need to get a good (maximized but not blown out) histogram (e) how many frames you shoot will be determined by your patience and your sampling ratio (the a6000 has 3.9 micron pixels if I recall correctly; so on my f/10 SCTs it is undersampled by about 2X, on my f/5 Dob by about 4X; the higher the under-sampling, the fewer frames you need) (e) use RawTherapee to convert your RAWs to PNGs or TIFFs for stacking (I like PNGs) (f) stack the frames in Autostakkert just like a video. When converting to mono you might have to do some experiments to determine the proper luminance weights, as the camera images will have a CCM applied already; I can't tell you want they will be, but you want to choose weights that minimize the noise in the resulting grayscale image. After converting to mono, process as you normally would.
Proud to be your 730th subscriber. Can not believe you don't have more! Not only is this exactly the thorough walkthrough of this process that I was frustrated in not finding, it's also filled with sensible reasoning as regards to why you check certain boxes and choose certain values. This gives the viewer the knowledge and confidence to experiment with the parameters on their own. Very well done and looking forward to watching your other content! Love from Sweden
Thank you for this most informative tutorial! Your in depth presintation held my interest and gave me a good starting point. The program didn't save the stack when I had save anchor checked. I'm sure it was just beta blues. Thanks again!
Hmm. The only time I have seen that is when accidentally forgetting to enter a number of frames or a percentage to stack. It will happily go through the surface stabilization and then the alignment phase but produce no stack.
Only 1/2 way through the post and I had to stop to say thanks. Really appreciate the deep dive into Autostakkert. First thing I need to do is upgrade to v4. Keep these coming.
Thank you very much! More to come.
Well done! Looking forward to future videos. Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
Beautifully detailed explanation mate, waiting for future episodes
Thank you very much; more on the way!
Very informative. I am looking forward to the rest of your tutorials. Thanks!
Thank you very much. More on the way.
Nice work.
Thanks!
Great Video, very very useful, Thank You. I do have a question though, Is it possible to switch the view between the different files that have been opened? Thanks
Yes. Under File, Open Data Browset. Navigate to the folder where the files are stored (make sure you have Sequences checked and not Images, which I believe is the default). Click on a filename and it will show it in the preview window.
@@michaelpowen thanks very much 😊
@@TonyK-111 You are very welcome!
Thank you sir!
You are welcome!
Thank you for the detailed explanations!
I'm dipping my toe into stacking of lunar images, using a modified Sony a6300 that has the Bayer filter array and IR cut filter removed. It is sensitive into the near IR. Without the RGB array it's a poor man's Leica monochrome camera. I image the very young crescent and seeing at high air mass is not as bad in IR.
For a mirrorless camera, how should I change my work/processing flow?
Thank you in advance.
First, do not take this as definitive. I have done quite a bit of lunar imaging with the Sony a6000, but not in a couple of years. Others might do things differently. But what I did was (a) shoot stills, not video (video resolution is very limited, and the video will be compressed; there is no raw video option on the Sony) (b) use an intervalometer or other remote shooting method to avoid camera shake (c) do NOT shoot bursts, as the shutter slap will ruin the shots (at least on the a6000 there is no way to use electronic shutter only) (d) shoot ISO100 at whatever exposure you need to get a good (maximized but not blown out) histogram (e) how many frames you shoot will be determined by your patience and your sampling ratio (the a6000 has 3.9 micron pixels if I recall correctly; so on my f/10 SCTs it is undersampled by about 2X, on my f/5 Dob by about 4X; the higher the under-sampling, the fewer frames you need) (e) use RawTherapee to convert your RAWs to PNGs or TIFFs for stacking (I like PNGs) (f) stack the frames in Autostakkert just like a video. When converting to mono you might have to do some experiments to determine the proper luminance weights, as the camera images will have a CCM applied already; I can't tell you want they will be, but you want to choose weights that minimize the noise in the resulting grayscale image. After converting to mono, process as you normally would.
@@michaelpowen Thank you! This gets me started down the right path. (Bonus: a6300 allows electronic shutter only.)
Awesome video! I'd be interested in seeing a demo of the drift method.
Well, if I ever have clear skies again, I'll try to demonstrate the technique. ;O) And thank you very much!