Just chiming in with the rest to say great video! Very informative and to the point. Also, the well labeled chapters are extremely helpful. Thank you sir!
Man!!!! I have been having so much struggle calibrating my pedals properly and you have hit on a lot of items I didn’t even know about iRacing calibration. This was the exact video I needed. Thank you so much for making this and teaching us how to properly calibrate. You are the man!
This is the BEST how to video on sim racing i have ever seen, you left no detail out and you spoke clearly and not to fast, i was finally able to dial everthing in correctly. i am have trouble with my simcore dash with sim hub getting it to work, please do more how to videos , your chanel will be huge thank you Donald.
Thank you very much for your comments Donald. They are much appreciated. I've been finding it difficult to get the time to create more content recently, but with any luck that will change. It's always hard to figure out what to cover since there is already so much good content out there. As for your Simcore dash, feel free to comment on what is happening and perhaps I or another reader will be able to help. I own a Simcore dash myself and have not had any trouble with it. That said, it's sitting in a box waiting to be sold at the moment, but not due to poor performance.
i have simcore dash, using sim hub downloaded UGT manager, able to open layout in manager and pick my screen but can't get it to work in the game either i Racing or ACC if you have any suggestions i would appreciate it.Donald
@@donaldcostello8312 I'm guessing you have the UD1-J model since you mentioned UGT manager. Unfortunately I have no experience with that model, but it is my understanding that SimHub will not drive that dash. I believe it will only work with UGT. It sounds like you have tried that though, so I'm not sure what is happening for you. Have you tried reaching out to George at SimCore? Chances are he can get you up and running quickly. Sorry I couldn't be more help on this one.
Great video. I knew I was loosing time with brake set up just didn’t know how to fix it, not without spending hours. Within an hour you have given me 1-2 seconds a lap thanks
You just encouraged me to study this video as opposed to just watching it. I'd be happy if what I learn results in a .5 second improvement. I've got a completely different pedal set, but it sounds like I should be able to pick up something that may help. 😄👍
Great stuff. Didn't realize that about CalibMin vs CalibCenter. Going to have to see what I have as I was putting the values from diView in CalibMin! I use two blacks mostly with a very large low end so I really have to stand on the brakes to get anything to happen. This is a close match, well I may have overdone it a bit on the Sim, to my Cayman Clubsport which has unassisted brakes (aka dual master cylinder option). Trail braking better in the Sim now as my foot is still down too long coming off the brakes in my real car. Need to strengthen my body some! Thanks for the great video to go with Mark's great pedals (using JBV's now after years with the PRX's.
Thanks for that Mark. I love hearing comparisons to real world applications. I think most of us in sim land are looking for authenticity in our setups but we just have no frame of reference to get there.
@@crashtestsimracing My earlier car had more street car like brake pedal so that new add on coming sounds great for that. I used to run my HPP's with one full bumper and the other cut down to 2/3rd sometimes with lots of empty space too. That way it felt very very soft before getting harder. I probably could have played with a dead zone but didn't understand that aspect very well.
@@MarkLewisTrackVideos Stay tuned for more information about that. There is more testing and development to be done but I’m confident it will be a very useful accessory.
I do have one more question. I currently use the Fanatec CSL pedals and both the brake and throttle are spring type. I do not have a load cell yet. Could the application you are using here in this tutorial be used for spring pedals, or is this specifically for load cell type pedals. I’ve seen a few other tutorials on this subject and I must say yours is without a doubt the most informative and thoroughly explained!
Hi Johan. If you are referring to DIView, then yes you can use it for any pedal set. Without a load cell or similar pressure-based brake there is less to gain by delving into the level of calibration covered in the video. It is still useful to understand the process so you can potentially add or remove dead zones based on how you use your pedals. For example, I typically calibrate in a very small dead zone at both the top and bottom of my throttle pedal as I have an odd tendency to sometime very briefly and slightly lift off full throttle if I shift my foot around. A small upper dead zone lets me maintain full throttle in the game when that happens. You can quite easily accomplish that with the calibration procedure in the iRacing UI, but it's good to know what is going on behind the scenes too with the calibration files. There is obviously a good deal more to gain with a load cell or hydraulic brake system though. If you have the opportunity to make that upgrade it is one of the biggest boosts to performance and immersion you can get for your setup. A great brake pedal, a DD wheel and triple screens/VR are the big targets for upgrades, probably in that order. Thanks for the kind comments!
Great how to video! I have the JBV, is the Prototype you described available any where? I know that Mark sold HPP and was wondering if someone else took over the brake prototype project.
Hey Steve. I'm afraid that prototype is not available. I went on to design a different prototype add-on that provides a distinct pressure build-up sensation at a configurable threshold brake point as I felt that would be more useful. It works really well in practice but since Mark has sold HPP, I don't really have a means to get it into production. Perhaps the new owners will be interested at some point... Thanks for watching the video. Glad it helped!
Great in-depth tutorial, much appreciated. I have the Thrustmaster TPA pedals (with a load cell mod) and these work slightly differently. The range goes from 1023 (off) to 0 (full on). So to get say 80% brakes you have to go to a minus number. Yes, it accepts minus values. On my set the brake is on the Y axis and the Clutch is called Slider. Importantly you have to adjust CalibMin. These are my settings for the MX5 - hope this helps. --- CalibrationInfo: DeviceList: - DeviceName: 'Thrustmaster T150 Racing Wheel' InstanceGUID: '{D99A8B00-C00B-11EC-8001-444553540000}' AxisList: - Axis: 0 AxisName: 'X Axis' CalibMin: 0 CalibCenter: 32768 CalibMax: 65535 - Axis: 1 AxisName: 'Y Axis' CalibMin: -30 CalibCenter: 1023 CalibMax: 1023 - Axis: 2 AxisName: 'Throttle' CalibMin: 0 CalibCenter: 1023 CalibMax: 1023 - Axis: 3 AxisName: 'Slider' CalibMin: -900 CalibCenter: 1023 CalibMax: 1023 ...
Thanks for that Sean. This is a good reminder of the sometimes seemingly broken logic that occurs when iRacing assigns to the CalibMin, Center and Max variable. If I remember correctly, the three values are present to allow calibration of pedals that share an axis. e.g. a Throttle from 255 to 0 and Brake from 256 to 512, but both on the same controller axis. When calibrating that type of setup, iRacing will use CalibCenter as the starting point and then either Min or Max depending on which is more separated from the CalibCenter value. This can lead to some funny looking joyCalib files and a little head scratching when it comes to manipulating it 🙂 That doesn't look like what is happening with your setup of course. Just seems like revered output from the driver. Anyway, looks like you've got it behaving as you want and thanks for the example. It is a useful reference for others.
Thanks a lot David. That wheel is the HPP Formula rim. No longer available from HPP unfortunately, but Mark has generously passed along his stock of parts so I plan to build and sell some this summer. Reach out to me on iRacing if you are interested.
Great video, but I wish I could get this to work for me. When I calibrate my Fanatec Club Sport V3 pedals in iracing the figures are in reverse. When the brake is not pushed I get 65535 & if I stamp on the load cell pedal I can get it as low as 0, but my max pressure I would normally use would be around 35000 & the SRF I race locks up at around 80%. Do I have to subtract when you say add & multiply when you say divide? Is there a way to reverse this in iracing so I can follow your instructions?
Hi Paul. I don't know if you can reverse the values, perhaps there might be something in the Fanatec driver? In any case I'm sure we can get it working for you as things stand right now. So in your case, let's assume your CalibCenter is around 65535 and your preferred max pressure calibrates to 35000. Given your SRF example, you want that 35000 to correspond to 80% of max brake in the sim. The total calibration difference between your zero brake point of 65535 and your preferred max pressure of 35000 is 65535-35000 = 30535. We want that amount of pedal travel to indicate 80% brake to the sim, so we divide 30535 by 0.8 (80%) to get 38169. i.e. A full 100% brake travel should indicate a raw output change of 38169 to the sim. In your case you would subtract that 38169 from your starting point of 65535. This gives you 27366, and this is the number you use in your CalibMax value. Assuming I didn't screw up the math, now when you hit your preferred max pressure, indicated by a raw output of 35000, you will get 80% brake in iRacing. I hope that makes sense. Fire away with any questions and thanks for checking out the video.
@@pauljackson8163 No problem! Let me know if that works out. It just occurred to me that in your case the 'high' point calibration might actually be in the CalibMin value instead of CalibMax. CalibCenter will be your 'zero' brake calibration regardless, but I haven't tried calibrating Fanatec pedals in a while so I'm not sure which variable will be used with reversed values.
@@crashtestsimracing It has helped me a lot this week, I gained nearly a second on my PB at Okayama International Circuit in the SRF. CalibMax is the 65535 figure, CalibCenter 64500 I set to allow for foot rest & CalibMin I needed to change to 41000 as 35000 was too hard & needed to much force to lock wheels. I'm very happy with the results. Thanks for a great video!
Thanks so much for this video. Well done and very helpful in getting my brand new V3s setup. Still working on the CalibMin vs CalibCenter concept. Not sure I get it yet. I ended up setting my braking low end at 50 for both. Seemed to work okay. I tend to put my foot right on the pedal but no pressure. When I used a higher min I didn't getting any braking until I pressed the pedal a good ways down. So I was missing some trail braking range. I tried the DIView link above and it didn't work. Could it be my computer? I also tried their website directly and couldn't find the download.
Glad you enjoyed the video Joe and thanks for dropping by. It sounds like you are getting the idea by tweaking the CalibMin and CalibCenter for the low end. I believe if you try just modifying your CalibCenter value you'll find that is the only one you need to change to modify the brake starting point. As for the DIView.exe download, I'm not sure what to tell you. The link works fine on my end. If you want to navigate directly to it, go to www.leobodnar.com -> "Universal USB Interface Boards" -> "BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller". On that page you will find DIView.exe under the "Product Downloads" tab.
Great video thanks! I just received these pedals and after 20 years using g25 then g29’s so you can imagine how pleased I am with them. In terms of heel & toe, the three pedals aligned is difficult as my foot catches on the side of the accelerator while the brake is depressed. Your suggestion of adjusting the internals of the brake is interesting however would result in an angled pedal, which may or may not work for myself. Is there any reason not to simply mount the entire brake pedal back a centimetre or two and as a solution? Just to add, I am very pleased with all three pedals setup as stock and don’t feel the need to play with tensions or anything else, so good job guys!
Hey David. Thanks for checking out the video and congrats on your pedals! You can absolutely mount the pedals anywhere that works best for you. Recessing the brake will work just fine if your mount solution allows for that. Although, wouldn't it make more sense to move the throttle backwards and not the brake? Anyway, I could just be misinterpreting your comments above. Just rest assured that you can mount them in any way you see fit, including inverted. Just reply if you have any other questions.
@@crashtestsimracing HaHa, I think I got myself a little confused. But you are absolutely correct, it is the accelerator which I intend to move back slightly while maintaining its angle. I do like the idea of inverting the clutch and accelerator and it’s something I may look into in the future. Anyway, thanks again for your video and for responding so quickly. Oh, and would love to order the brake accessory once it’s out of prototype stage. Sounds very promising indeed.
@@crashtestsimracing So I moved the accelerator back 1cm and adjusted the threaded bolt to set the pedal plate further back as well. This is working very well for heel & toe in terms of positioning however I'm not getting enough revs from the blip for downshifts. The obvious thing to do is to shorten the travel of the accelerator which in turn would result in a recalibration where less travel translates to more revs? Seems a shame as I quite like the default travel in that pedal, but am willing to find a compromise. An alternative might be to increase the force required to depress the brake resulting in less brake travel which may mean I could move the accelerator forward 1cm, back in line with the other two pedals and maintaining heel & toe positioning, and perhaps that would result in more of a successful blip? I'm using Assetto Corsa exclusively at the moment. Just wondering if my logic makes sense or if perhaps you might offer up a better solution before I start tweaking. Many thanks!
@@JJ_Khailha Hey David. I think you are on the right track. Any of your suggestions could be a potential solution, it's just a matter of which one works best for you. My first step would be to continue tweaking the pedal positioning and see if you can find the right balance there, before considering a shorter throttle throw. Since you like the stock throw (as do I), it would be a last resort to make changes there. Heel and Toe is always a tricky thing to get right. Personally I'm no good at it, as I just don't have enough flexibility in my right foot to pull it off. Since we are all different in that regard, getting the correct pedal position is a very personal thing. In your case I believe I would start with just pulling the throttle pedal slightly forward of the 1cm recessed position you have it in now. See if you really need that 1cm or if there is a middle ground that will take care of the problem. If that doesn't work then your idea of firming up the brake could certainly help. Of course that would change how the brake feels to you and will require recalibration. Since I don't know how firm your current brake setup is, it's hard to advise you on whether this is likely to be a good plan for you. That said, in general I find a relatively firm brake pedal to be an advantage as it provides a larger pressure range from zero brake to max. That in turn effectively gives your braking foot more resolution to play with. This can be a very good thing, but only if you can sustain the pressures required for however long you tend to practice or race. There is no point in setting it up so firm that your foot gets fatigued or starts hurting. That will not just hurt your foot, but also your performance. It's always a balancing act when trying to find that perfect performance sweet spot. As mentioned earlier, abbreviating the throttle travel so that less initial pedal movement provides more input is a sound plan logically. However, that would do the opposite to firming up the brake, i.e. it would reduce your effective resolution and control of the throttle, so I would leave that 'til last. Let me know how you get on!
I'm not exactly sure why the Fanatecs do that, but it shouldn't present any real problems as far as calibration goes. Take a look at a similar question from "Paul Jackson" discussed below for more info. Hopefully that helps. Thanks for watching the video!
The folder will be empty until you perform your first calibration in the iRacing UI. That will generate the joycalib file and you can adjust from there. Just make sure you have ticked the selection to use custom controls for this car. Otherwise the calibration will impact the global joycalib file and it will not create the first car specific instance in the setup directory.
Just chiming in with the rest to say great video! Very informative and to the point. Also, the well labeled chapters are extremely helpful. Thank you sir!
Thanks a lot Jack!
Man!!!! I have been having so much struggle calibrating my pedals properly and you have hit on a lot of items I didn’t even know about iRacing calibration. This was the exact video I needed. Thank you so much for making this and teaching us how to properly calibrate. You are the man!
Glad it helped! Thanks Michael.
This is the BEST how to video on sim racing i have ever seen, you left no detail out and you spoke clearly and not to fast, i was finally able to dial everthing in correctly. i am have trouble with my simcore dash with sim hub getting it to work, please do more how to videos , your chanel will be huge thank you Donald.
Thank you very much for your comments Donald. They are much appreciated. I've been finding it difficult to get the time to create more content recently, but with any luck that will change. It's always hard to figure out what to cover since there is already so much good content out there.
As for your Simcore dash, feel free to comment on what is happening and perhaps I or another reader will be able to help. I own a Simcore dash myself and have not had any trouble with it. That said, it's sitting in a box waiting to be sold at the moment, but not due to poor performance.
@@crashtestsimracing Not the way you break it down
@@donaldcostello8312 Thanks again Donald. Glad it helped!
i have simcore dash, using sim hub downloaded UGT manager, able to open layout in manager and pick my screen but can't get it to work in the game either i Racing or ACC if you have any suggestions i would appreciate it.Donald
@@donaldcostello8312 I'm guessing you have the UD1-J model since you mentioned UGT manager. Unfortunately I have no experience with that model, but it is my understanding that SimHub will not drive that dash. I believe it will only work with UGT. It sounds like you have tried that though, so I'm not sure what is happening for you.
Have you tried reaching out to George at SimCore? Chances are he can get you up and running quickly. Sorry I couldn't be more help on this one.
Amazing first video. I rarely comment but wanted to say you are a natural at teaching and would love more iracing content.
Thanks a lot Chris! Much appreciated :-)
Great video. I knew I was loosing time with brake set up just didn’t know how to fix it, not without spending hours. Within an hour you have given me 1-2 seconds a lap thanks
That's fantastic! Glad to hear it helped so much Peter and thanks for the feedback.
You just encouraged me to study this video as opposed to just watching it. I'd be happy if what I learn results in a .5 second improvement. I've got a completely different pedal set, but it sounds like I should be able to pick up something that may help. 😄👍
nice video on the configuration of the pedals. explained very well. I really appreciate
Thanks!
Brilliant video - been looking for a video to explain all this and finally found it. Thanks very much.
Thanks Bill!
Fantastic video tutorial! Well presented and thoroughly appreciated! Subscribed.
Thank you Johan!
Great in depth information on setting up pedals Brendan. I use HE Ultimates and they have a few great videos on setting up their pedals.
Thanks Darren!
Great stuff. Didn't realize that about CalibMin vs CalibCenter. Going to have to see what I have as I was putting the values from diView in CalibMin! I use two blacks mostly with a very large low end so I really have to stand on the brakes to get anything to happen. This is a close match, well I may have overdone it a bit on the Sim, to my Cayman Clubsport which has unassisted brakes (aka dual master cylinder option). Trail braking better in the Sim now as my foot is still down too long coming off the brakes in my real car. Need to strengthen my body some! Thanks for the great video to go with Mark's great pedals (using JBV's now after years with the PRX's.
Thanks for that Mark. I love hearing comparisons to real world applications. I think most of us in sim land are looking for authenticity in our setups but we just have no frame of reference to get there.
@@crashtestsimracing My earlier car had more street car like brake pedal so that new add on coming sounds great for that. I used to run my HPP's with one full bumper and the other cut down to 2/3rd sometimes with lots of empty space too. That way it felt very very soft before getting harder. I probably could have played with a dead zone but didn't understand that aspect very well.
@@MarkLewisTrackVideos Stay tuned for more information about that. There is more testing and development to be done but I’m confident it will be a very useful accessory.
Subscribed and rang the bell. Well done sir!
Thank you very much!
I do have one more question. I currently use the Fanatec CSL pedals and both the brake and throttle are spring type. I do not have a load cell yet. Could the application you are using here in this tutorial be used for spring pedals, or is this specifically for load cell type pedals. I’ve seen a few other tutorials on this subject and I must say yours is without a doubt the most informative and thoroughly explained!
Hi Johan. If you are referring to DIView, then yes you can use it for any pedal set. Without a load cell or similar pressure-based brake there is less to gain by delving into the level of calibration covered in the video. It is still useful to understand the process so you can potentially add or remove dead zones based on how you use your pedals. For example, I typically calibrate in a very small dead zone at both the top and bottom of my throttle pedal as I have an odd tendency to sometime very briefly and slightly lift off full throttle if I shift my foot around. A small upper dead zone lets me maintain full throttle in the game when that happens. You can quite easily accomplish that with the calibration procedure in the iRacing UI, but it's good to know what is going on behind the scenes too with the calibration files.
There is obviously a good deal more to gain with a load cell or hydraulic brake system though. If you have the opportunity to make that upgrade it is one of the biggest boosts to performance and immersion you can get for your setup. A great brake pedal, a DD wheel and triple screens/VR are the big targets for upgrades, probably in that order.
Thanks for the kind comments!
Great how to video! I have the JBV, is the Prototype you described available any where? I know that Mark sold HPP and was wondering if someone else took over the brake prototype project.
Hey Steve. I'm afraid that prototype is not available. I went on to design a different prototype add-on that provides a distinct pressure build-up sensation at a configurable threshold brake point as I felt that would be more useful. It works really well in practice but since Mark has sold HPP, I don't really have a means to get it into production. Perhaps the new owners will be interested at some point...
Thanks for watching the video. Glad it helped!
Great in-depth tutorial, much appreciated. I have the Thrustmaster TPA pedals (with a load cell mod) and these work slightly differently. The range goes from 1023 (off) to 0 (full on).
So to get say 80% brakes you have to go to a minus number. Yes, it accepts minus values.
On my set the brake is on the Y axis and the Clutch is called Slider. Importantly you have to adjust CalibMin.
These are my settings for the MX5 - hope this helps.
---
CalibrationInfo:
DeviceList:
- DeviceName: 'Thrustmaster T150 Racing Wheel'
InstanceGUID: '{D99A8B00-C00B-11EC-8001-444553540000}'
AxisList:
- Axis: 0
AxisName: 'X Axis'
CalibMin: 0
CalibCenter: 32768
CalibMax: 65535
- Axis: 1
AxisName: 'Y Axis'
CalibMin: -30
CalibCenter: 1023
CalibMax: 1023
- Axis: 2
AxisName: 'Throttle'
CalibMin: 0
CalibCenter: 1023
CalibMax: 1023
- Axis: 3
AxisName: 'Slider'
CalibMin: -900
CalibCenter: 1023
CalibMax: 1023
...
Thanks for that Sean. This is a good reminder of the sometimes seemingly broken logic that occurs when iRacing assigns to the CalibMin, Center and Max variable. If I remember correctly, the three values are present to allow calibration of pedals that share an axis. e.g. a Throttle from 255 to 0 and Brake from 256 to 512, but both on the same controller axis. When calibrating that type of setup, iRacing will use CalibCenter as the starting point and then either Min or Max depending on which is more separated from the CalibCenter value. This can lead to some funny looking joyCalib files and a little head scratching when it comes to manipulating it 🙂
That doesn't look like what is happening with your setup of course. Just seems like revered output from the driver. Anyway, looks like you've got it behaving as you want and thanks for the example. It is a useful reference for others.
Great video, super useful information on setup
Cheers Ciaran!
Amazing!!!
Thanks Felipe. Glad it helped.
Loved the vid. Subscribed and looking forward to more videos.
Out of interest, what is the wheel attached to your Simucube?
Thanks a lot David. That wheel is the HPP Formula rim. No longer available from HPP unfortunately, but Mark has generously passed along his stock of parts so I plan to build and sell some this summer. Reach out to me on iRacing if you are interested.
Great video, but I wish I could get this to work for me. When I calibrate my Fanatec Club Sport V3 pedals in iracing the figures are in reverse. When the brake is not pushed I get 65535 & if I stamp on the load cell pedal I can get it as low as 0, but my max pressure I would normally use would be around 35000 & the SRF I race locks up at around 80%. Do I have to subtract when you say add & multiply when you say divide? Is there a way to reverse this in iracing so I can follow your instructions?
Hi Paul. I don't know if you can reverse the values, perhaps there might be something in the Fanatec driver? In any case I'm sure we can get it working for you as things stand right now.
So in your case, let's assume your CalibCenter is around 65535 and your preferred max pressure calibrates to 35000. Given your SRF example, you want that 35000 to correspond to 80% of max brake in the sim.
The total calibration difference between your zero brake point of 65535 and your preferred max pressure of 35000 is 65535-35000 = 30535. We want that amount of pedal travel to indicate 80% brake to the sim, so we divide 30535 by 0.8 (80%) to get 38169. i.e. A full 100% brake travel should indicate a raw output change of 38169 to the sim. In your case you would subtract that 38169 from your starting point of 65535. This gives you 27366, and this is the number you use in your CalibMax value.
Assuming I didn't screw up the math, now when you hit your preferred max pressure, indicated by a raw output of 35000, you will get 80% brake in iRacing.
I hope that makes sense. Fire away with any questions and thanks for checking out the video.
@@crashtestsimracing Thanks!
@@pauljackson8163 No problem! Let me know if that works out. It just occurred to me that in your case the 'high' point calibration might actually be in the CalibMin value instead of CalibMax. CalibCenter will be your 'zero' brake calibration regardless, but I haven't tried calibrating Fanatec pedals in a while so I'm not sure which variable will be used with reversed values.
@@crashtestsimracing It has helped me a lot this week, I gained nearly a second on my PB at Okayama International Circuit in the SRF. CalibMax is the 65535 figure, CalibCenter 64500 I set to allow for foot rest & CalibMin I needed to change to 41000 as 35000 was too hard & needed to much force to lock wheels. I'm very happy with the results. Thanks for a great video!
@@pauljackson8163 Glad to hear it Paul. There is definitely a lot to gain or lose through pedal calibration.
Thank you so much!
You’re welcome Josh. Glad it helped!
Thanks so much for this video. Well done and very helpful in getting my brand new V3s setup. Still working on the CalibMin vs CalibCenter concept. Not sure I get it yet. I ended up setting my braking low end at 50 for both. Seemed to work okay. I tend to put my foot right on the pedal but no pressure. When I used a higher min I didn't getting any braking until I pressed the pedal a good ways down. So I was missing some trail braking range. I tried the DIView link above and it didn't work. Could it be my computer? I also tried their website directly and couldn't find the download.
Glad you enjoyed the video Joe and thanks for dropping by. It sounds like you are getting the idea by tweaking the CalibMin and CalibCenter for the low end. I believe if you try just modifying your CalibCenter value you'll find that is the only one you need to change to modify the brake starting point.
As for the DIView.exe download, I'm not sure what to tell you. The link works fine on my end. If you want to navigate directly to it, go to www.leobodnar.com -> "Universal USB Interface Boards" -> "BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Controller". On that page you will find DIView.exe under the "Product Downloads" tab.
Great video thanks! I just received these pedals and after 20 years using g25 then g29’s so you can imagine how pleased I am with them.
In terms of heel & toe, the three pedals aligned is difficult as my foot catches on the side of the accelerator while the brake is depressed. Your suggestion of adjusting the internals of the brake is interesting however would result in an angled pedal, which may or may not work for myself. Is there any reason not to simply mount the entire brake pedal back a centimetre or two and as a solution?
Just to add, I am very pleased with all three pedals setup as stock and don’t feel the need to play with tensions or anything else, so good job guys!
Hey David. Thanks for checking out the video and congrats on your pedals!
You can absolutely mount the pedals anywhere that works best for you. Recessing the brake will work just fine if your mount solution allows for that. Although, wouldn't it make more sense to move the throttle backwards and not the brake? Anyway, I could just be misinterpreting your comments above. Just rest assured that you can mount them in any way you see fit, including inverted.
Just reply if you have any other questions.
@@crashtestsimracing HaHa, I think I got myself a little confused. But you are absolutely correct, it is the accelerator which I intend to move back slightly while maintaining its angle. I do like the idea of inverting the clutch and accelerator and it’s something I may look into in the future. Anyway, thanks again for your video and for responding so quickly. Oh, and would love to order the brake accessory once it’s out of prototype stage. Sounds very promising indeed.
@@JJ_Khailha You can invert the brake too if you like! :-)
@@crashtestsimracing So I moved the accelerator back 1cm and adjusted the threaded bolt to set the pedal plate further back as well. This is working very well for heel & toe in terms of positioning however I'm not getting enough revs from the blip for downshifts. The obvious thing to do is to shorten the travel of the accelerator which in turn would result in a recalibration where less travel translates to more revs? Seems a shame as I quite like the default travel in that pedal, but am willing to find a compromise. An alternative might be to increase the force required to depress the brake resulting in less brake travel which may mean I could move the accelerator forward 1cm, back in line with the other two pedals and maintaining heel & toe positioning, and perhaps that would result in more of a successful blip? I'm using Assetto Corsa exclusively at the moment. Just wondering if my logic makes sense or if perhaps you might offer up a better solution before I start tweaking. Many thanks!
@@JJ_Khailha Hey David. I think you are on the right track. Any of your suggestions could be a potential solution, it's just a matter of which one works best for you.
My first step would be to continue tweaking the pedal positioning and see if you can find the right balance there, before considering a shorter throttle throw. Since you like the stock throw (as do I), it would be a last resort to make changes there.
Heel and Toe is always a tricky thing to get right. Personally I'm no good at it, as I just don't have enough flexibility in my right foot to pull it off. Since we are all different in that regard, getting the correct pedal position is a very personal thing.
In your case I believe I would start with just pulling the throttle pedal slightly forward of the 1cm recessed position you have it in now. See if you really need that 1cm or if there is a middle ground that will take care of the problem.
If that doesn't work then your idea of firming up the brake could certainly help. Of course that would change how the brake feels to you and will require recalibration. Since I don't know how firm your current brake setup is, it's hard to advise you on whether this is likely to be a good plan for you. That said, in general I find a relatively firm brake pedal to be an advantage as it provides a larger pressure range from zero brake to max. That in turn effectively gives your braking foot more resolution to play with. This can be a very good thing, but only if you can sustain the pressures required for however long you tend to practice or race. There is no point in setting it up so firm that your foot gets fatigued or starts hurting. That will not just hurt your foot, but also your performance. It's always a balancing act when trying to find that perfect performance sweet spot.
As mentioned earlier, abbreviating the throttle travel so that less initial pedal movement provides more input is a sound plan logically. However, that would do the opposite to firming up the brake, i.e. it would reduce your effective resolution and control of the throttle, so I would leave that 'til last.
Let me know how you get on!
may i ask why mine starts at 100% and when pressed goes down in % to 0% when fully pressed? (all my pedals do this V3 Fanatec)
I'm not exactly sure why the Fanatecs do that, but it shouldn't present any real problems as far as calibration goes. Take a look at a similar question from "Paul Jackson" discussed below for more info. Hopefully that helps. Thanks for watching the video!
hi, does it still work ? because when I do this with a car I never used before, the setup folder of the car is empty
The folder will be empty until you perform your first calibration in the iRacing UI. That will generate the joycalib file and you can adjust from there. Just make sure you have ticked the selection to use custom controls for this car. Otherwise the calibration will impact the global joycalib file and it will not create the first car specific instance in the setup directory.
@@crashtestsimracing thank you, indeed i forgot to ticked the custom controls