Team Associated B6.4D Unboxing + Build - WORLDS BEST RACE BUGGY!!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2024
- So in this video guys I am building a Team Associated B6.4D, which has very kindly been sponsored by Tomley RC and CML Distribution.
See CML Distribution here: www.cmldistribution.co.uk
See Tomley RC here: / @tomleyrc - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
![บุษบา - มอส รัศมี [COVER VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_n0yENSl8d8/mqdefault.jpg)
Kev's magic tricks don't work if my names mentioned in the video 🤣
You did an awesome job.... look forward to seeing it on the track!
😂 I’ll try again then!! Thank you so much I really enjoyed the build!
Hahaha. We all know you guys have fun
Heard those T-Shirts are very goo for cleaning boots after a muddy day of bashing 😂😂not to bad a solder job, your getting better 👍👍
Haha thanks! Yeah was hoping you would approve of the Soldering!
Love the blue color for the body. It looks sweet. Also if your connectors work and don't fall off they are perfect no matter what they look like! But yours looked good.
Thank you so much!
Cracking build mate and I love your honesty, showing mistakes that were made. Your editing has come on in leaps and bounds too bud. Great job!!!
Thank you so much!!!!
Great build video Noah 👍 nice music 🎶 hope you get to whoop some of the bigger boys with it 😉 Phil might regret helping you out when you're on the podium and he's 4th 😂
Thank you! Haha yeah let’s see how we get on against the others!!
Awsome build Noah. Looking forward to seeing it run. 😊
Thank you!
Awesome dude 🎉
Thank you!
Very cool Noah mate. And pukka that Phil is helping ur channel out. Fair play to both of ya 👍🏻
Thank you! Yeah he’s a top legend for that!! 💪
@@noahsrcs1808 careful where u wear that Tomley t-shirt tho 😂 I wore a Tomley hoodie to Badlandz last year and got a bit of friendly stick for it!
@@TidyRC tell me who bullied you about it and I'll get the boys round!
I enjoyed the video. You did a very good job on the assembly. Think it's going to fly on the track.
Thank you so much!!
Very nice video,relaxing and inspiring.
Thank you so much!
Nice one Noha! LOL Kev's booms don't work when he's sleeping or eating an Indian takeaway after 6:47pm. That and like Phil said, when you mention his name in the same video. Kev's part 80s Germlin so we think it's somethingto do with that.
Thanks!! Haha yeah we’ve figured out another system!!
You did a top-notch job editing and putting this video together Noah.
Thank you so much!
Congrats with 3k maybe fun to make an rc collection vid as special for the 3k👍
thank you! Yeah you know what I might do a full rc collection video soon!
Great to see you getting more race spec cars! First the mp10 now this! Have fun!!!🎉
Thank you! Yeah I’m loving my racing now!!
Great build noah can't wait to see some racing
Thank you!
Beautiful build! This car will be used and loved!
Good job 👌🏼☕👌🏼🗿
Thank you!!
Nice build noah now lets race it :)
Thank you! Yes 100% racing soon!
less go my guyyyyyy!!!!
Thanks bro
Nice vid Noah 👍
Thank you very much!!
Just a thought, would those other wheels work if you removed the hex and just used the pin that holds the hex on ?
Yeah that’s what I thought but then I thought you know what for 5 pounds I’m happy to make the sacrafice and get the right wheels. I agree though I reckon it could have worked!
Oof, i was going to cringe so hard if you didnt move those front shock mounts, thank goodness you did! 🤣
You will likely need to get a new front shock tower cap. Need to protect the tower.
Speaking of tower caps, Your rear tower caps are on backwards. They should be swapped left to right, and fit snugly against the tower profile, with all of the mounting holes aligned with the cover slot gap.
Some other build issues you should be aware of... (sorry this is going to be long)
You REALLY need to address your ESC placement. Weight is EXTREMELY critical on a 1/10 car. And trying to get as much of it into the centerline of the car as possible helps tremendously. Wires are quite heavy, and reducing their weight, and balancing their location helps a ton.
Place your Sanwa Receiver all the way over on the far side of the mounting plate as you can get it. Then turn your ESC 90 degrees to that the power button is facing the side of the car, and the motor and battery wires are facing rearward. Then, place the speed control more towards the center of the car, so that you can run your Motor Sensor wire into the central channel of the chassis, back to the motor. You can put some electrical or gaffer tape over the sensor wire to hold it in place. If the sensor wire is long enough, you can actually run it under the motor, and around the back to the side where the sensor board is.
Then, with your battery installed, take your motor power wires, and in a nice smooth arc, run each wire to the correct motor tab, starting with the furthest away. Then give your self an extra 1.5-2cm of wire, then trim it, and strip the first 3mm of the insulation, and twist the wire inside, and tin the twisted tip with solder. Then solder it to the motor tab coming from the INSIDE of the car, not the outside as you have it now. Then move to the second motor wire. Follow the same curve as the first wire. Give yourself a little slack, trim, strip, tin, solder. Then do the same for the third. Now instead of a massive heavy jumble of zip tied wires, you have a clean looking rainbow arc of wires to the motor. And probably saves yourself 10-15 grams of weight.
Then install your battery, and do the same to your battery leads. Trimming each one to the length of your battery terminal, just like you did with the motor tabs. I like to give an extra 1cm of slack length though, just in case. This not only saves weight, but has the added benefit of making one polarity longer than the other. Which will prevent you from inadvertently reversing the polarities on your battery.
Your front bellcranks are tightened down too tight. They are locked in place by friction. You need to back those screws off JUST a tad, so that they can swing freely under their own weight. Too tight, and your servo has to work harder to push through that bind, which makes it generate more heat, and could lead to a premature failure of the servo. Also be careful you dont over tighten the forward screws on the top plate (right below the shock tower), as overtightening them can also bind the bellcranks. You can sand a little off the bottom of the top plate, around the two circles, if its still rubbing.
Additionally, when assembling bearings, especially in the transmission, always put the bearings into the bearing holder first, then install the part into the bearing. Doing it like you did, trying to put the bearing on the shaft, then sandwiching it all together, can lead to bearing misalignment which can cause premature bearing wear, and added friction, which will result in a loss of power, and higher motor temps. So press the bearings into the transmission case first, press the bearings into the idler gears. Install the idler shafts, then just slips the idlers over the shafts, as easy as you like. It makes the whole ordeal a LOT less fiddly. And with the bearings already in place, it makes doing up the transmission case, much smoother, and more accurate.
Continuing with the bearings. You ALWAYS want the Blue Seal on the bearings visible, EXCEPT inside the transmission cases, where you want the silver facing the inside of the case, so you can lubricate them for maintenance. Ont he outside of the car thought, if you can see Silver on a bearing...its in backwards. The Blue Seal is a gasket designed to keep out dirt and debris. Where the silver side is a low friction seal to make oiling and maintaining your bearings easier. So, for example, your larger inner bearing on your rear hubs has the silver side of the bearing showing, those need to be flipped to show the blue dirt seal. That is one of the dirtiest parts of the car, and it will accumulate a lot of fine dust and dirt, or carpet fuzz and lint, which will kill the bearings very quickly. So you want those flipped the right way to keep dirt out. Same with the front hubs too. Make sure you can only see blue!
When you are putting the motor mount on to the transmission, place the lower screw in first. This will hold the motor plate in place on the transmission. Then the top spur gear cover just slots in beautifully to the top of the motor mount, and you can easily put in the top two screws with no fuss.
Moving onto the slipper...Grab your Spur gear first. Then place your inner facing facing friction pad into the spur gear. It should more or less hold itself in there. Then grab the rear slipper plate, and hold it against the slipper pad and spur, then flip the Spur Gear over, and place the other friction pad into the front of the Spur Gear. Then like the back side, place the front slipper plate (with the keyed insert) over the front facing friction pad. Now you should have a Spur Gear Hamburger of sorts...or a HamburgSpur...anyway, now that they are all sandwiched together, grab your top shaft bolt, and drop it through the front plate, and it should just fall out the back. Now everything should be well held together. You can hold rear of the spur gear on your index and middle finger, and place your thumb over the front facing plate and top shaft bolt, kind of like holding a syringe. Then grab your transmission, and slide the transmission top shaft over the top shaft bolt, and rotate them until the rear plate keys into the top shaft (you can use your pinky to spin the diff outdrive to rotate the top shaft to help with alignment). Then lay the transmission down on the drive side on your work surface, so gravity holds everything together while you get your tension spring installed. Now just drop the spring collars and spring onto the top shaft bolt thats sticking up, and easily screw the nut on. Doing it this way you dont have to fight with it so much. It can be really fiddly until you get the hang of it.
Also, Your front steering turnbuckles are on backwards. They need to be swapped left to right. They should go out and upwards, to the steering plate. The way you have them now, they are hooking down to the steering plate, and they will hit the shock at about 3/4 steering throw, binding up, and limiting your total steering. You dont want that.
Likewise, your right rear turnbuckle is on backwards compared to your left.. Pop it off and flip it around. The little notched groove in the turnbuckle should all be facing the same way as you look at them. In this way, when you are adjusting the car, pushing away from you, or pulling towards you, is always performing the same action. Also i didnt see this in your build, but make sure you put a dab of grease onto your turnbuckle shafts. If you dont, there will be too much friction from the plastic, and it will just pop the cup right off the ball.
Normally i set my turnbuckles up so that as the car is facing me pulling towards me tightens the turnbuckle, and pushing away from me opens the turnbuckle. A nice little tip, is to put your front turnbuckles on opposite of your rear and steering linkage turnbuckles. The rear turnbuckles are almost always adjusted with the rear of the car facing you. And the steering arms are normally adjusted the same way, with the car facing away from you. So the same turning direction performs the same action. But when you adjust the front camber turnbuckles, the car is almost always facing you directly, and if all the turnbuckels where in the same orientation, the direction of adjustment would be backwards. So flip your front turnbuckles opposite of your rear and steering turnbuckles, so that the same direction, always performs the same action. It helps a TON with muscle memory, and you never have to worry about "Am i turning this the right way?" and second guessing yourself. If you look at almost any pro racers car, there turnbuckles are set up this way, with the rearward facing turnbuckles set opposite the fronts.
Also, when you are doing your ball studs with any adjustment shims, always put the smaller shim on the bottom. So the smallest adjustment is the easiest to make.
Less of a tip, and more of something to look out for...the rear hub hinge pin says to install it with the nut in the back. But, if you run with the hub spaced forwards, sometimes this can cause the nut, under load, to rub on the inner wheel rim. So you may need to flip those pins around, and put the nut in the front, so you can gain some additional clearance for the wheel rim.
Please dont take all of this the wrong way, its nothing to be ashamed of, just all part of the process of learning as you go. And at some point someone had to tell me all of this stuff too. ANd trust me, there are plenty of adults i see make the same mistakes, and even more, at the track every day. And the majority of them pay no heed to the advice of anyone. Ive even heard some people scoff at Spencer Rivkin telling them their car is built wrong. Sooo...you did pretty good, all things considered, and with some solid tips, your next build (B7 anyone?) will be even better!
WoW thank you so much for all this incredible advice!!! Thanks for taking the time to write all this as well I can’t imagine it was quick lol… I’ll definately take it all into consideration and make as many changes you have suggested as possible before I go racing!
Wow!! that is some detailed advice. Nice to see someone taking the time to explain and help out. 👍
Sweet build man.
Thank you!!
great vid, nice car, cant wait to see it around the track.
And what happened to your specks.
Thank you! haha yeah decided to switch to contact lenses!
Your mom is gonna kill you! That's her good cutting board you built that car on! Just kidding.😅 Cool video. That blue just pops.
😂 haha i accidentally glued the tire to it too! 😂
🤣You're dead now!🤣
@@michaelthompson7637 😂
Popalong rc …..😎🦾🍻Tommy rc … 😎🦾outstanding
Great build video Noah and i see you are over the 3k subscribers . You can treat yourself to an electric screwdriver 🪛 haha. Look forward to seeing it in action.
Thank you! Haha yeah my wrists were dead after this! My drill didn’t have any charge in it and kept for getting to charge it! 😂