ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ต.ค. 2024
- After its first race night, we now know a bit more about the B6.4 and what's working well and what needs some attention. In this video, we fit a bunch of upgrade parts and adjust the setup to help improve its performance. We also look at fitting a vintage style body to improve its looks.
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for the cutting out issue i had a similar issue on my noble receivers. with some high powered gear. feel like it draws too much power then cutting out.
I added a capacitor to the receiver and it solved the issue
I love the cab forward bodies now after hating them for years
Wow!!!I'm totally jealous. That associated is looking good.
It's a lovely buggy the B6.4 for sure and it has grown on me loads. I wasn't really a modern buggy fan at first but now I'm having a blast.
Loving all the upgrades but most of all the body. Just hope it goes well for you.
I am impressed, looking forward to see it on track 😀👍
You sound really excited about this project, which has made this a really enjoyable watch 😊
Yep, I'm getting into this new race buggy more than I expected. It was lovely to drive and a fun build and upgrade experience so far. Loads more to come :)
Ceramic bearings and diff balls
Reduces the rolling resistance massively, better punch out of the corners due to better smoother and the diff balls keep temps down significantly in the gesr box
Also it helps with stress racing on the electronics with overheating
Yep I did this to my racing cougar :)
Looking forward to seeing this develop
That body does look good! And I really like the first body with the turned up front end it looks really cool. And I agree with those colors will bring it all together. But I wouldn't change the wing to the one that's on the Schumacher. I would keep the slim wing on there. But either way. Can't wait to see the finished version and running video👍
I tried the cougar 2 body on my LD2 and was allmost a perfect fit, but looked 100 times better 👌 get some brass up front if you need more over the front, easy to remove when your strip cleaning the car 👍
What a beautiful rig Gavin! I love the liverly, the tyres, just so sweet.
Thank you :) It's coming along but I still have loads to do.
Wow this will be an awesome buggy 😊
Try a +1 bulkhead or shim it. More steering immediately
I thought your car performed exceptionally well and the setup you copied worked really well. I hope the changes you made make it better. I have always been told and I've read in many places to make one change at a time. If the car performs better then you are ok. But. if you make a few setup changes and it doesn't work you may not be sure what the issue is. I think the Schumacher body looks good and I am looking forward to the body experiment at the track. Good luck.
Yep I covered this exact thing in my last video :) th-cam.com/video/g4dyDiR91tw/w-d-xo.html
I like the original shell colours reminds me of Rothmans race cars
I kind of like the cab forward body on the B6.4, especially in those colours! It will definitely be interesting to see how well it goes with the 'retro' style body on it, it's been designed for the modern body so may not be quite as good, but we'll have to wait and see....
You and me both!
£143 for the titanium screw set! Did I read that right. Holy moly😮
Yep!
This cougar body would easily accommodate a fix I seen a video about a cooling fan and motor interference, and to install a fan further away from the motor, looked like he had to remove part of the body.
This cougar body would easily accommodate fix.
Kev goes to that track!!
Not so much now as he’s moved away to his own island but yep, he did. I’m sure he will pop in when in the UK as he still has his unit
To reduce understeer we cu5t spikes off and glue down front tyres, makes them much more responsive on carpet
Looking good Gavin
Only issue with throwing that many parts at it at once is you're not going to know what changed how it handles. You could set everything up the same and it handle completely different to than before and you won't know which part did what. Handling can be a minefield and is recommended that you should make notes on your setup, make a single adjustment then test , if it's better note the adjustment, if it's worse reset to what it was and adjust something else , test rinse repeat. It's long winded but that's how you learn.
You are not wrong but please remember, I am making content for the show so it's completely different. It wouldn't make for a good video just fitting a single part now would it LOL
@@RCKickschannel I fully understand that and do appreciate it . But I think you might be surprised about people not wanting to see that because there's barely anybody that does it. But yeah it is incredibly long winded and time consuming. Just don't want you getting lost in set up issues.
Yeah, think how much content there would be by showcasing each upgrade individually! 😂
A good setup gets around 99% of upgrades…
@@Al3xisAE you've missed the point. A set up changes with each upgrade, you throw 5 upgrades at it at once what upgrade made the improvement you was looking or what upgrade made it worse. Upgrades don't mean perfect handling straight away. Heavier hubs more sprung and unsprung weight , his changed the shock pistons , he changing the fluid. What part changed how the car feels . You don't know. What do you adjust to get it how you want it ,you don't know because so much has been changed. Upgrades don't mean instant handling success.
My friend runs a Cat XLS shell on his B6.2 which fits surprisingly well. Looks a million times better than the kit body.
XLS is one of the best looking buggies of all time. It’s a stunning looking body
I’ve heard people say the Dyna Storm body fits the B6.x cars? Also, I cut the chassis rails to get the battery even further forward but the biggest difference to steering response and understeer I found is tweaking the front roll centre by changing the height of the inner top camber link ball studs. Will speed do a -2mm front section for this but I found that to be way too aggressive for my taste, no sign of understeer
I removed the spacers on the front ball studs to see if that helps
hi, mr-hobby paints has the metallic colours to use in airbrush
I will go check them out :)
U can try steel bulkhead instead of alum one..I got more steering now.. 😂
I used to run a Schumacher Fireblade 2000 back in the day. I rarely ever see them in any vids. Body looks really similar to the Cougar there but maybe just different enoughto work well 4 u? Can't wait to see it painted up!
We have a few Fireblade fans at the club but its not easy to run them these days due to part availability.
7:46 what about going full on vintage 90’s style? Neon yellow, neon pink, and light blue? Would be cool to have a retro look for a new chassis. Just a thought
I think I will end up with a few bodies for this so yet, 80s paint job would be fun
With all the added weights up front, why not upgrade to a brass or steel bulkhead?
I upgraded the front bulkhead in the last video.
@RCKickschannel I see the aluminum bulkhead in the parts mix, but that's only 10-12 grams. A steel or brass bulkhead would weigh in at around 30g. At that point, you wouldn't have to add the sticky weights in the areas shown in the video. It's just a little bit tidier.
Yep 100%, but you currently can't get a brass one in the UK. @@kurtbenson6600
So ali rear hubs actually add unsprung weight and make it handle worse (add under steer)
If you use only 2 gears in the diff you only use 1 cross pin. If you leave the 2nd cross pin in it will destroy the diff
I left it in as the cross will be stronger and support the single bar holding the gears. Does everyone remove the other bar thats not used?
Trim your rear wing down, the gurney flap is huge!
I think it’s funny how a ‘team’ car requires so many upgrades. Maybe they should sell it as a ‘race’ version, and do a proper ‘team’ spec with all the upgrades. Still on the fence about getting this car or the Xray XB2. 🤔
A few upgrades I’ve added are not really required. The alloy steering, bigger pistons and alloy diff housing will do it really. I can only comment on the B6.4 but I’m super happy with it. 👍🏻 From the two I don’t think you can really go wrong
That cougar body looks so much better Gavin!
Like you, I hate the modern cab forward mumbo jumbo..... and am very interested to see if there is actually any performance gains to be had, cool experiment.
I'm a vintage guy, but do own a RC10B 6.2..... the chassis /engineering is a true work of art, but boy that is one ugly body, it reminds me of krytens head from red dwarf! 🤣 😂
5.5 is too much, a 7.0/7.5 will be spot on, add some turbo if you want some more speed down the straight
7.5 I think with some turbo like you say when I upgrade
Stoked on the Schumacher body fitting man, the rear cab just looks so much better!
Other than the signal issue I’m keen to see how much you feel the mods actually shave time off or add consistency, I’m just getting into buggy racing (2wd stock) and can’t see where upgrades would improve my times more than track time.
Getting the tyre choice right, shock setup, toe and camber dialled in is the first stop and then the balance of the chassis to get a 2WD to turn in well. Apparently the steering upgrade on the B6.4 is worth doing but I guess it's down to removing some small amounts of slop as well as adding weight over the front. The 13mm shocks on the B6.4 are lovely and the best shocks I have ever used. I would fit a set to my Cougar but $$$
@@RCKickschannel thanks for the reply man, really love the work you put into the channel!
I’m thinking steering for mine and front tyres, I noticed quite a bit of play towards full lock on my B6D. I’ll try track down some alloy ones like the FT ones you showed here. I was getting understeer and unpredictable steering so I reckon that will help me move in the right direction.
How many turns motor do you advice for carpet on 2s. Is a 6.5T motor a good option?
Im not doing prof races but just for fun at the local carpet track.
6.5T is super hot, I would go up a bit more to 12.5T+ for indoor carpet unless it's a massive track with long open runs.
@@RCKickschannel thanks for the advise this helps allot!
Still interested in getting to the bottom of why the modern buggy is faster out of the box. Was wondering if it’s just due to the efficiency of the drivetrain? Basically if it has more wheel horsepower than the Schumacher? Otherwise it must be more aerodynamic / drivable, just can’t square that away in my head given how similar at first glance the chassis look side by side.
A big part is just how the modern chassis responds vs the vintage one under power and when lifting off power as well as how fast you can get back on the power after a corner. I still have some work to do on the rear of my vintage Cougar. I'm not happy with it but the front is sharp as a knife at the moment.
@@RCKickschannel ok that’s interesting I was thinking maybe some sort of bench test would be useful comparing the relative rpm of the tyres. Sounds like it is much more to do with drivability, cool looking forward to more videos!
the alloy diff half is not going to do anything to the leaking... proper assembly is :)
I think it's something to do with the diff flexing
Add a capacitor for the power cutting.
The ESC already has them but yes, you can add more. I was running the ESC and motor in another car yesterday and it works fine. I did do a full reset on the ESC. I’m using it again for racing this weekend so I’ll see if the issue comes back again
@@RCKickschannel what was the other car though, weight/gearing etc. might not have been demanding as much from the esc. yeah my xerun has one as stock but i was losing power exactly like in your video, The more experienced guys at the track knew straight away and gave me 2 more capacitors plugged into the receiver and never had the problem again.
Not a good idea to put TS paint in a airbrush unless you clean it really well. Yes you can get Met blue in Airbrush paint or mix your own.. could thing with water based paint.
Would you add front weight like you did to front of servo for dirt?
Depends on how much understeer you have when running on dirt. If turn in feels slow and the buggy washes out on the corner, add a little and see how it affects the buggy.
Runnin rear sway bar on dirt high bite track?
Depends on how bumpy the track is
won't the wider cougar body rub on the ground during body roll in the corners, causing handling issues?
No, I cut the body to allow for this issue.
Remove the front anti roll bar
What it is is you need a bigger ESC they can handle your draw current I use the fuse a scale ESC I usually use 1/8 scale on a 10 scale I think it's a 70 amp and you're right about going down on the pinion you're going to get the motor not as hot what would you have to do is get a better battery sometimes whenever you buy a battery brand new you think that is brand new most of the time you don't know how long these lifeboats were stored our what materials they used to make them I'd stick with the z brand and you might have better luck on your ESC it's probably made for a 2-wheel drive buggy but it draws too much current battery can't handle it cuz it's might be a little old Gavin is the new Shelby of RC cars that is that he created his own style which is awesome Gavin sat and thought there for a while 😁🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ Gavin don't do it it's like wearing a dress to be going to be a ninja could you imagine all that body slap that's what I call a judo chop another thing don't do it with the paint you have to have a special airbrush for that doesn't stick well unless he use Tamiya to back paint is rubbery and you have to buy the thinner if you're using the lighter colors and you had to measure the drops perfectly they won't spray out right I wouldn't do it I would not do it
Will somebody tell him just to get better tires and leave it stock and get at least ESC that doesn't cut out and start practicing on your driving practice on the hardest part of the course that way you get that part down and when you're far away it's easier for you on that part start from close up
All this extra work to make this thing work properly is why I won't touch modern Associated or TLR race cars. You shouldn't have to spend hundreds beyond what you would on the kit itself just to make it raceable, especially since the kit prices themselves are ridiculous these days.
That’s a little strong a statement personally as really the only thing you actually need is the steering upgrade and possibly the ally diff plate. In the B7 you now get that included. You don’t have to speed loads if you don’t want to. You could just run it stock form. That said I do agree some kits need loads to make them work well but that tends to be more non track cars from the like of Tamiya.
Not a single option part is needed at all. Have every "C" version of the B6 range in possession and not a single plastic diff plate has leaked , unless someone ether: overtightens it, or overfills it.
Aluminium is nice for the bling, i have it as well for that reason, but its not needed.
Titanium options should just be avoided at all. No reason for that stuff in RC.
Most options are all for the bling, which i like as well 😉