this was super enlightening! thank you for drawing the geometry, and especially for going through the trouble of removing the shock! chain tension was just voodoo to me until this point.
With a new bike I always remove the rear shock, align output shaft, swing arm pivert and rear axle and tighten the chain. Refit the rear shock and lift bike on a bike stand (or centre stand) and check the chain slack and record it. Then just set the chain slack to that measurement in future. I make a piece of wood to the size required for both off road or on road bikes 👍 You should use a pro motion chain alignment tool. They are good. Machinings aren't always matched from side to side. Great video none the less 👌
Great video. I like how you put in the extra effort to remove the shock and show the full travel of the swingarm. I like the concept of the tool as it's super quick to use. I just wish it would work out to be within the factory specs.
Great video. I always questioned ktms manual spec. I thought it was a bit to loose myself. Very helpful. Alot of rides go with the three fingers rule, like you mention you can destroy the countershaft and its seal. This adjustment process is very crucial for the bike.
I've watched all your videos, and want to say thanks, you've helped me a lot with my bike and watching your enduro video makes me relax just like riding with you mates, just thanks
That amount if slack looks like the minimum. Be sure to increase the slack more like factory spec if you're racing a mudder because the chain will tighten substantially. The tool could be used as a minimum guide. Also I wonder if it would work with my TM designworks chain slide. Good video.
Does sprocket size have any effect on the measuring part of the adjustment? i mean if you have a smaller lets say 44 sprocket in the rear versus a 51 surely the measurement and that block isnt gonna be the same? Or did i miss something?
Again good review but I don't know about the product. Why wouldn't they make it to the KTM specs? Having the chain 5-8mm tighter than spec is a lot and will effect things like you commented on. I'd say your chain was spot on before you tightened it. The product has a good theory behind it but bad execution on how it was made.
Thank you. I think I can do without that thing. It's unnecessary and is obviously inaccurate. How much was it? I'd recommend measuring the distance from the centre of the swinging arm pivot to the centre of the rear spindle for the most accurate wheel alignment. KTM used to sell a tool to make this easy.
Don't use this block! This block is too small and sets the chain tension incorrectly - as I found out to my cost, one counter shaft and lots of other stuff and US$1000 later! When you ride through very fine dust, fesh-fesh, the dust gets in-between all the links and this has the effect of tightening the chain. This block sets the chain tension less than the minimum 55mm. I've now cut a piece of wood down to 58mm and use that.
Yes, it is getting a bit low. But I don't mind riding with worn tires, especially when it's dry. I'll probably change it after this weekend. We'll be riding in the mountains for two days. I plan to ride my 2017 250 EXC most (which has a newer tire on) so it'll be fine...
I think I seen a clutch guard on his bike. The kits get rid of the chain guard and there is a bar that goes from the slave Cylinder to the upper chain slider.
The guard sits where the tool measures the chain, I use the guard to get the right slack ie the chain should just touch it with a bit of pressure. I notice some people remove them just wondered why
I love your videos. They've helped me a lot and I'm a subscriber.... However, I can't help but cringe at this comment you've made: "[TwoRide] mentioned that the KTM spec is over-conservative and results in too much slack." I'm sorry, but I'd rather trust the KTM engineers who have actually designed this bike, rather than a random third party company. What testing have they done to support that claim? Can they produce empirical evidence that shows their claim is actually correct?
thefischerman - I showed the test in the video. Remove the rear shock and move the rear wheel through the full range of motion and ensure the chain always has some slack. Using this method you can identify the minimum chain slack setting.
I just read a Motocross Action article about chains: motocrossactionmag.com/10-things-you-need-to-know-about-chains/ Tip #8 states: "Improper chain adjustment will cause excessive wear. Ideally, the chain will have just a bit of tension at its tightest point-when the countershaft, swingarm and rear axle are aligned."
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for the response! Ok I can see that. After reading the article you linked and thinking about it more I can agree that going tighter to 50mm is fine. Ideally it would be great to see some testing in a lab that produces data on chain life vs. tension graphs, but I agree with you. Thanks for all the videos and content you put out.
There is quite a bit less chain slack than the standard adjustment. But as I showed in the video, by moving the wheel through the full range of motion, there is enough slack to not damage anything. It's a quick and easy tool to use and you can tweak your adjustment easily to give a a little more slack if that's your preference.
jfd889 - This video is about the TwoRide tool, which as I stated at the start of the video I received from TwoRide for review purposes. It’s easy to use and requires no measuring. Whether you think it’s worth the asking price for the convenience is your decision.
jfd889 - Agreed, accuracy of which depends on the size of your fingers. BTW. If using fingers to measure chain slack on KTM PDS bikes 3 fingers is usually recommended, but if the fingers are very big two might be enough. If you want to go it this way I’d recommend checking your adjustment after the first time (like I did in the video) to ensure it’s not over tight.
this was super enlightening! thank you for drawing the geometry, and especially for going through the trouble of removing the shock! chain tension was just voodoo to me until this point.
With a new bike I always remove the rear shock, align output shaft, swing arm pivert and rear axle and tighten the chain. Refit the rear shock and lift bike on a bike stand (or centre stand) and check the chain slack and record it. Then just set the chain slack to that measurement in future. I make a piece of wood to the size required for both off road or on road bikes 👍
You should use a pro motion chain alignment tool. They are good. Machinings aren't always matched from side to side.
Great video none the less 👌
Great video. I like how you put in the extra effort to remove the shock and show the full travel of the swingarm. I like the concept of the tool as it's super quick to use. I just wish it would work out to be within the factory specs.
The QR code for this tool should take people directly to this video. Very well done, thanks!
Great video. I always questioned ktms manual spec. I thought it was a bit to loose myself. Very helpful. Alot of rides go with the three fingers rule, like you mention you can destroy the countershaft and its seal. This adjustment process is very crucial for the bike.
Woow A very professional approach to the subject .. Hardly anyone analyzes what is happening and understands it
Nice review of a quick and easy tool to use. Saw this on a FB group looks like a handy tool to have have to what the postage would be to the UK
I've watched all your videos, and want to say thanks, you've helped me a lot with my bike and watching your enduro video makes me relax just like riding with you mates, just thanks
Love the caliper idea for measuring on both sides. Nice little detail to ensure the wheel is on straight.
Yes setting chain slack to KTM SPEC 55mm just looks abit too loose.
I set 52mm looks to be good not to loose not to tight.
I think you should go by the owners manual 55-58 mm
After blowing a countershaft seal, I've decided to stick with KTM's spec. I have this tool but don't use it anymore.
5:03 awesome idea to use calipers to get both sides in the same spot. never thought to do it that way.
Love the videos and just subbed. What caliper model is that( link) thanks!!!
That amount if slack looks like the minimum. Be sure to increase the slack more like factory spec if you're racing a mudder because the chain will tighten substantially. The tool could be used as a minimum guide. Also I wonder if it would work with my TM designworks chain slide. Good video.
Mud race always need extra slack, even more than KTM loose dimension. And no, the TM guide have different shape that won't fit the block.
Does sprocket size have any effect on the measuring part of the adjustment? i mean if you have a smaller lets say 44 sprocket in the rear versus a 51 surely the measurement and that block isnt gonna be the same? Or did i miss something?
Good point. You could determine how much the specification should change proportional to the change in sprocket diameter by doing some trigonometry.
Another excellent tutorial video, with lots of great background info (y)
Great video thanks!
A proper review. Thorough.
Again good review but I don't know about the product. Why wouldn't they make it to the KTM specs? Having the chain 5-8mm tighter than spec is a lot and will effect things like you commented on. I'd say your chain was spot on before you tightened it.
The product has a good theory behind it but bad execution on how it was made.
it's not inaccurate - KTM specs are too loose as measurement is inaccurate and they prefer too loose than too tight :)
Great video as usual
It looks lust a hair too tight for my liking, chain looks tight when you move the swingarm up.
Thank for the video!
It's a great tool for any rider IMO.
Excellent explanation
Great review mate. Thanks
Love the product.....
Hey, would you recommend this tool or the KTM chain gauge tool if you could only have one?
Either perform a similar job. But I think the TwoRide tool is a little easier to use.
GREAT VIDEO!!!
Thank you. I think I can do without that thing. It's unnecessary and is obviously inaccurate. How much was it?
I'd recommend measuring the distance from the centre of the swinging arm pivot to the centre of the rear spindle for the most accurate wheel alignment. KTM used to sell a tool to make this easy.
it's not inaccurate - KTM specs are too loose as measurement is inaccurate and they prefer too loose than too tight :)
good video but I stick to the 3 finger trick
I’d rather just use a tape measure and adjust to KTMs specs
KTM specs are too loose as measurement is inaccurate and they prefer too loose than too tight :)
Don't use this block! This block is too small and sets the chain tension incorrectly - as I found out to my cost, one counter shaft and lots of other stuff and US$1000 later! When you ride through very fine dust, fesh-fesh, the dust gets in-between all the links and this has the effect of tightening the chain. This block sets the chain tension less than the minimum 55mm. I've now cut a piece of wood down to 58mm and use that.
WHAt are the dimensions?
Wow get that rear tyre spun and some nice sharp edges back on the knobs
Yes, it is getting a bit low. But I don't mind riding with worn tires, especially when it's dry. I'll probably change it after this weekend. We'll be riding in the mountains for two days. I plan to ride my 2017 250 EXC most (which has a newer tire on) so it'll be fine...
Tokyo Offroad plenty videos mind
Good info as usual. 👍
Any reason you don’t run the chain guard?
I think I seen a clutch guard on his bike. The kits get rid of the chain guard and there is a bar that goes from the slave Cylinder to the upper chain slider.
The guard sits where the tool measures the chain, I use the guard to get the right slack ie the chain should just touch it with a bit of pressure. I notice some people remove them just wondered why
@@Simon-df2ku You vant fit 5" wide supermotard rims with the oem chain guard. The new factory style guard could fit.
Moose slave cylinder?? Whats that for?
Bikemancody - It’s a clutch slave cylinder guard and chain guide. The stock plastic guard collects mud, stones and debris very easily
@@TokyoOffroad i agree with that. I had to cut mine
nice video!!!
Who sells it? Thanks
I put a link to the TwoRide webpage in the description of the video. Please check it out.
I love your videos. They've helped me a lot and I'm a subscriber.... However, I can't help but cringe at this comment you've made: "[TwoRide] mentioned that the KTM spec is over-conservative and results in too much slack." I'm sorry, but I'd rather trust the KTM engineers who have actually designed this bike, rather than a random third party company. What testing have they done to support that claim? Can they produce empirical evidence that shows their claim is actually correct?
thefischerman - I showed the test in the video. Remove the rear shock and move the rear wheel through the full range of motion and ensure the chain always has some slack. Using this method you can identify the minimum chain slack setting.
I just read a Motocross Action article about chains:
motocrossactionmag.com/10-things-you-need-to-know-about-chains/
Tip #8 states: "Improper chain adjustment will cause excessive wear. Ideally, the chain will have just a bit of tension at its tightest point-when the countershaft, swingarm and rear axle are aligned."
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for the response! Ok I can see that. After reading the article you linked and thinking about it more I can agree that going tighter to 50mm is fine. Ideally it would be great to see some testing in a lab that produces data on chain life vs. tension graphs, but I agree with you. Thanks for all the videos and content you put out.
$17 + shipping???? Kidding me?
Looks too tight
There is quite a bit less chain slack than the standard adjustment. But as I showed in the video, by moving the wheel through the full range of motion, there is enough slack to not damage anything. It's a quick and easy tool to use and you can tweak your adjustment easily to give a a little more slack if that's your preference.
Literally do not get these type of tools. Just as easy to measure with callipers or a rule. Pointless.
Yes, if you have calipers it easy to do it that way and the method I show in this video from 4:40: th-cam.com/video/ZbFDsAe8Y0U/w-d-xo.html
wtf?!?!
you paid money for that....
doesn't even require a tool, just a brain.....
jfd889 - This video is about the TwoRide tool, which as I stated at the start of the video I received from TwoRide for review purposes. It’s easy to use and requires no measuring. Whether you think it’s worth the asking price for the convenience is your decision.
@@TokyoOffroad two finger method isn't rocket science....
jfd889 - Agreed, accuracy of which depends on the size of your fingers. BTW. If using fingers to measure chain slack on KTM PDS bikes 3 fingers is usually recommended, but if the fingers are very big two might be enough. If you want to go it this way I’d recommend checking your adjustment after the first time (like I did in the video) to ensure it’s not over tight.
Or just use a correct size block of wood or metal....cost $0
Many people recommend using 3 fingers to measure chain slack, but the will depend on whether you have correctly sized fingers ;-)