Perfumery Basics: Odor Strength & Evaporation Curves of Materials
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I discuss of an often overlooked part of perfumery for beginners, and that is understanding your materials you are working with by looking at their characteristics of each materials Odor Strength and its Evaporation Curve (longevity). Understanding these will help you grasp the concept of how different materials work together in your perfume composition, and creating a smooth full bodied perfume with different materials and how each note/accord transitions over time within your fragrance. This is a good tutorial for DIY perfumers to understand their materials.
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I love this explanation! As an artist - with my musician, producer / audio engineer background, your explanation here is exactly how we in music must also balance and smooth out "edges" in the mix (audio frequency spectrum) to make the entire piece cohesive. Am ordering my first materials and can't wait to create my first accords/chords Yay! :) Love your videos! Thank you so much for sharing! :)
I've noticed a few materials can have a very faint, almost non-existent smell up close but from far away are absolute beasts. I'm guessing it's because of the size of the molecules within those materials.
Also, if you haven't already talked about it, could you possibly do a video on what head space and odor tenacity mean? Lastly, in regards to odor impact, is that the same thing as saying something has a strong smell or is it more complex then that?
Subscribed. Love your videos, thank you
@bkscents7050 Thank you! But as with much good science, you raised more questions than you answered. The most important ones to me were:
1. Rigorization of the vertical axis (odor strength). There have to be some real units that can be used here (i.e. aromaticity/terpicity or similar), and the big scent cos. must have "sniffer" machines (not top-rated human perfumers) that can quantify how "strong" notes are a bit more objectively;
2. Effect of adding other materials on the curve. In particular, you'd expect that adding musk or myrrh to the base would prolong at least some top/mid scents and to elongate their portions of the graph somewhat ... but you might not have expected that odorless fixatives such as benzyl benzoate would do the same. Need a graph to demonstrate that top and mid curves could change with the addition of odorless compound(s).
3. You should have recommended a text(s) for further reading. Lots of info for future videos here too ...
Thanks so much for your hard work in making all these videoes, it's very very much appreciated
Thank you for such information, keep your good work, love and support ❤️
So beautifully explained.
Thanks for sharing.
Invaluable information. Thank you! 💜
Thanks for all the info. Really appreciate you expertise and kindness. Question: How does vapor pressure affect life of an accord or fragrance?
Really gained some knowledge. Thankyou for teaching it's amazing, 🤗😅but for more understanding I should do and work on my way 🤗
Hey BK, another great video on an important topic 👍
It's also relevant to something I've been curious about that I've never really seen addressed which is how diffusivity and sillage are effected by diffusion curves and the distance between the "wearer" and the "smeller". I've seen a couple of documentary bits where a famous perfumer seems to be testing this where someone is spritzed with a perfume and they note that it smells wonderful at 5 feet away, or have a model wearing their scent and have them stroll by to check the sillage. This is great but not terribly helpful (since it's always "wonderful"). I've noticed that a perfume smells quite different when you're smelling it from an inch away where you can smell everything (to some extent) from the beginning, including base notes whereas if you're further from it, it smells quite different. Do you test diffusivity and sillage when evaluating a perfume and how might you adjust a formula to improve them if they are found to be wanting even if it will change how it smells close up? I hope my question makes sense...
Hello! Thanks for your info! But where can I find the charts for a particular element? For instance Vanilla (just an ex). Or should I create the graph? And if yes, how should I do it? Can you help me with a link or something? Thanks
I would be interested too
Invaluable content, I love it!
Tnx for good information
You are a genius ♥️
Sir, you are great, you have one hundred percent correct knowledge .Your perfume channel is the best.
I benefited a lot 🌿💌🌿👍
AISF FROM PAKISTAN🌱
Hi, just stumbled upon your channel and it's a goldmine. I have one question though.
My sense of smell isn't the best because of hayfever, I can differentiate between smells but lower odor strength I don't seem to pick up while others seemingly do.
Is it wise for me to delve into this? Any tips for improving your sense of smell?
I'm not BK but I deal with some of the problems you mention. Inherited cruddy sinuses from my mother 😂 So I find that I have to keep my smelling sessions shortish to avoid headaches and that, since my nose gets congested that smells can actually "cling" longer since the molecules get stuck in there. If you love perfumery and want to try making your own scents, absolutely do so. I'd suggest making sure you take any prescribed allergy medication to help with the swelling in the part of your nose where the olfactory receptors are, take breaks to give your nose a rest, and use nasal saline to keep your membranes moist and rinse away any molecules that get stuck. Also, if there are particular natural scents that trigger your hay fever, try smelling synthetics that give the same sort of note you're looking for since, unless it's the exact molecule that's triggering your allergy, the synthetics are less likely to give you problems. I hope some of that advice is useful 🤞
This is so helpful thanks a lot 👍🏻😀
Excelent!!! Thanks
Thank you for all the great info. What program did you make that chart with? What is that kind of chart called with overlap.
Hi , two question please :
1-do you believe that correlation is required for the graph while making my blend? Like for example, base note will slow down the evaporation of top notes , hence will last longer a little bit ? Or it will waste of time ?
2- as you mentioned in your example for bergamot ( impact 150 , longevity 20 hr )
Assume if i increase the amount to 2 parts to get 300 impact , will the longevity increased to roughly 40 hrs ?
Or the addition of 2 parts will only affect the impact and the longevity will remain the same???
Tenacity I’ve learned can only be increased by using longer lasting materials.
Stupid question: How can a perfume like this - with completely different scents dominating at different times said to have a defined character? Wouldn't it be more desirable to combine ingredients with similar evaportation times to get a consistent, well-controlled scent?
No necessarily. They affect each other. Bases will prolong tops, tops will project based.
Also the longer you allow then to mature and macerate, the less of those transitions you will get.
If you smell a just finished natural perfume it’s basically top mid base over the course of minutes, maybe hours. Let them sit for weeks and months and you get a more uniform scent.
Synthetics will change all that and give you more uniform scents. They blend and round out the formula.
You are awesome
What unit of measurement are you using for odor impact?
A made up fictional number in my head, lol. I think of a number like 100 is the standardization for a "normal" medium type scent, and go from there. Something that is barely detectable I'd give it a 20....and something that need heavy dilution before use I'd say is something like 500 or 1,000 if it truly is 5x or 10x stronger than typical medium scented items
@@bkscents7050 Hmm, I guess even without it the tenacity rating alone is worth noting. Like a relay race, what notes the fragrance as a whole passes the baton to as it goes on
Hi, could you please give some names of oils or aroma chemicals that you don't dilute.
Thank you
👍👍👍
Thanks :)