Brake caliper rebuild (from A to Z)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Warning :
Like said by "magic biker boy" here on YT :
" careful not splattering brake fluid everywhere. shit is really corrosive "
Method is the same for motorcycles,cars and everything with brake calipers.
The piston was still ok to be used again.
Moisture is the enemy here,the fluid should be changed to the specified interval.
The price of a new caliper is prohibitive (286 euros !) ,allowing non rich peoples to rebuild them...
One shot one kill on this one,no replay or crap like that (like usual),it's hardcore live.
That's why we talk shit my brother and i.
Editing help to keep things under control...
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Just a Heads Up ( Heads Up = Warning ) to all you young Humans of today ,,""PLEASE"" use Gloves when washing parts with Petrol ,Degreaser's , Thinners or Solvent's like Acetone ,,Wear Gloves and even a good Respirator Mask Because all that shit will make you sick and after years of it leaching into your skin can give you Cancer ,,Mechanics and mostly Trades Assistants have died in their 40s and 50s and even younger from using Solvents to degrease parts unprotected , I'm 52 and I virtually bathed in all that shit plus add Herbicides and Pesticides and I am as sick as one can get without dying and I know its from all that crap ,,plus even wear a specific coverall as your skin breaths the fumes .. learn from us Oldies mistakes because I would Hate any young guy/girl feeling like I do at 50 from not protecting your skin ,,PS I just did Back and Front brakes on my Kawasaki ZZR 600 and the front pads were pretty Ordinary lol , Everyone stay Upright : )
well said steve, PPE isnt that expensive these days and worth it in the long run.
Google please remove the all the text screen on my screen please remove all incidents on my phone now all the wrong thing all instrument text lasting screen all the text screens on my fucking regular screen please remove all now
cheers for the warning i am usualy the only one in my garrage that uses gloves hoope they take this advice
I knew a former mechanic who died of lung cancer even though he didn't smoke. Doctors will never speculate what gave you cancer; they will just treat it.
Some of the comments were critical, but some were unnecessarily rude. Would I want these guys working on my bike? No. But I enjoyed the video, and learned a few things. I could also tell from michaelovitch's response to the rude comments, that he seems like a good dude. One thing is for sure .... the brakes are WAAAY better after this brake job, than before.
Its always worth loosening anything you need to remove while the calipers still bolted on, makes life way easier
Mate you absolute legebd, your the 1st guy ive seen to bleed a brake by raising the caliper side of the hose..such an awesome ideato remove unwanted air!
Ill bare that in mind. Many thanks for the hint^^!
Now to try this on my 6 pot calipers... wish my luck, the corrosion is disgusting....
Thank you : )
You have a damaged caliper ?
Finally finished her, new pistons, seals etc.. back on the road^^♡
Enis Baysal
Yeah !
Braking good ?
Thanks for the inspiration and information. You just helped me restore the brakes on a 86 VFR750 Interceptor (Winter Project). Poor guy that had it before me did NOT believe in maintenance. Good thing we do! She'll be back on the street shortly!!!!
I'm happy it helped you !
Thanks to you : )
Nice bike it is...
No video of it ?
really appreciated! I recently got a 1983 honda magna (v45) and it has two sets of calipers on the front each with two pots, and they are both locked. I figured that this was what i needed to do, but i wanted to actually see it done! many thanks! now to actually fix them haha
Jordan Haga Thanks to you : )
I hope you will can fix them.
It's quite a nice bike,smooth muscular shape : )
Excellent close focus on the details, overall a great video showing this procedure. Presumably the outer seal melted with the heat from the adjacent brake pads. I did a rear VW jetta caliper rebuild and it was mostly the same, though the parking brake issue was a little more complex. Sure beats buying a new caliper, which is what the dealer does.
I love that moment when the piston comes out!!! ROFL!
Good video, wish to give humble suggestion.
10:02 to 11:28 you are doing it not in the best way. Why?
No matter how precise turned the caliper hole and the piston is, both are never a perfect circle on their sides. So considering how tight the gap between the piston and the hole is, the piston can't turn inside the caliper. The piston will fit in only one orientation. You turn the piston slightly off - it will take some effort to go in - and might cause piston to get stuck or damage it's sides while doing so. So its always better to check the best orientation where the piston goes in to the caliper freely and moves in and out without any resistance. This must be checked and position marked for reference before seals are inserted in their grooves. If you get this right, and the proper seals and inserted correct side out (if the seals are directional), the piston should go in without any resistance.
How do I know?
Because I just did one caliper rebuild today. Works like a charm now.
Keep up the good work.
Thank you.
The seal is thick.
If you insert the piston in the bore without a seal it will giggle a lot,there is a lot of room.
You really had that much difference while adjusting it in the bore ?
Yes. For me it was just a one way fit.Tturn the piston some 20-30 degrees, it wont fit in the caliper. The clearance between the piston and the caliper walls was so small so that when it was properly inserted even without seal, blowing air in and out through the oil port made the piston move up and down. The air leak was so little.
I don't think that's normal.
The pressure on the seal,while braking, is uneven because of the oval piston,and can cause the seal to leak or pop out on the thin and loose section.
What caliper is that,on wich vehicle ?
Yes about the brake pad above the container,my brother told me the same when he saw that too,if i remember you can hear us to laugh or something like that= )
As i know, all is ok for now, the bike is used everyday,it's better than the crooked piston to stop.
The rear drum brake is next on the list,it's sticking, with an other used starter :the magnets of the stator were on the rotor when we pulled it out.
The bike didn't start...lol
I always reverse bleed mine, open the bleed nipple on the caliper, attach piece of pipe to nipple, SLOWLY pump brake fluid into pipe using a NEW oil can filled with fluid, pump until the master is full and no bubbles are coming through, the bubbles will always rise, thats why you pump SLOWLY..lock up the bleed nipple, job done! no mess or wasted fluid, simple.
Remember that when you bleed "backwards" you can send particles or cast iron,aluminium,hoses or whatever particle of corrosion in the master cylinder,where tiny holes ,and several seals are waiting for it to make a party.
heavy parts must be flushed with gravity.
water is within the brake fluid,being hygroscopic.
bubbles will go down too,if you release pressure normally on the caliper's bleed screw.
Fluids ,in small diameter pipes, run extremely fast,so bubbles will be expulsed very well even going to a lower spot.
: )
A very good point that makes sense, I would assume that if your replacing the fluid anyway it would be because you've already changed the seals etc and cleaned everything up, reverse bleeding is the method I've used for many years on all my cars and motorcycles without any issues but because it works for me it might not work for someone who neglects cleanliness of components.
Difficult operating conditions,like high humidity in the air ,oblige you to flush the system more often.
The brake fluid is hygroscopic,attracts water,so you have to change it every few years,even if seals are in good shape.
The US military uses a silicon based brake fluid,wich is not hygroscopic,so even parked vehicles for long can be operationnal quick.
The same if they run in water often etc...
The guy from the shop is right and was good adviser,i shouldn't have used an other oil,i wanted a very good lube,i was not sure about the success of the operation when sliding the piston.
I don't think it will hurt the seals,but i don't know their properties or what chemicals they can handle.
It was well purged,it should be good.
Yes about the cement, i can't see it anymore anywhere.
weird...
This dog is the family one,he is crazy,always barking at 120db..
it's on or off ,never between...
Thank you very much bro only because of you I am able to clean my bike's disc brakes thanks a lot
Luv from India 🇮🇳 🙂
Thank you : )
You repaired it,or cleaned it ?
michaelovitch I ceaned it and changed the brake fluid also applied grease around the piston but I was stuck in managing pressure for it then I saw a lot of videos on TH-cam but only ur video helps me out thanks a lot man 😘
Ok,
I'm happy it helped you : )
Greets from France !!
loved this vid! straight gansta style! spilling brake fluid? phuck it! caliper all banged up? phuck it! motor oil on the seals? phuck it! hahaha! way better vid than those carefully meticulous 'my bike is a princess' blah blah dudes! loved it! good job!
Eduardo Esparra
I can't do a lot if the caliper is al banged up,it's not my bike... : )
For the engine oil,yes,it's supposed to be only brake fluid,(wich is an oil too,even the worse corrosive crap of them)
It was flushed with the purge.
Spilling brake fluid ?,yes,but no problem if you clean it very quick if it touched the paint. : )
Thanks : )
I think guys treating a bike like a princess don't use it often,or don't work on machines very often...
Those things can be bitches,cut you fingers tips,smash your knuckles or make the hands all bruised up.
@@michaelovitch Spoken like a true moron! Brake fluid is not oil! its Ethyline Glycol based which is not oil at all and also why you dont put engine oil on brake seals as they're not designed to handle oil! it will eat them!
The way to avoid broken nails, skinned knuckles, bruised hands and cut fingers is to take your time and don't go at the job like an impatient gorrilla.
@@roythearcher
In my country there are mineral based brake fluids LHM brake fluid (for citroen at least) and in the USA there are silicon based brake fluids used for the long terms stationned vehicles (army) DOT 5
So ,you are right,but not completly.
😆😆...Phuck it!!
You've given me the confidence to have a go myself. Excellent job.
And you got your brother, Lionel Messi to help you as well..
I just hope the dog didn't kill the rabbit!
HAhahaha !
Thank you !
Yes,the bunny is ok : )
You read it !
your camera and camera-man are excellent. I appreciate that.
Thank you very much.
Thank you for your appreciation : )
Gloves are a must. You should listen to Steven o hare. Thank you for the video, I really like the fast forward lol
C'est ce que je pense aussi pour la purge,on a mis la sauce, pour nettoyer la durite par la même occasion,ça a du tout éliminer.
Merci à toi : )
It makes me wonder why so many people are criticizing this video but they are here to see how it's done in the first place..
I thought you did a great job, what did you lube the seal and brake piston with when you put it back together? Was it just new brake fluid?
Thanks : )
It was just oil,engine oil.
Brake fluid is an oil,too.
The brake seal composition is not really compatible with engine oil,but it was rinced with brake fluid during the fill up and purge.
www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
Good job! Keep uploading more videos. Thank you
: )
Thank you !
C or G clamps are the best thing for pushing pistons back in.
Good job, easy to understand. Keep it up, thanks
+Ray Koh
Thank you !
Ray Koh 0
Yes,i wanted the close focus,the essential of the work was here i think,all the others things are just accessory in the task.
Yes the heat from the pad very thin,the corrosion inside the outer seal seat all the crap inside the caliper caused that.
The fluid is from 2000 like the bike..
The mechanics wich "maintained" it, replaced the tires recently saw the problem i know.
There are vice grip dents on the caliper...
You didn't filmed the repair on the jetta ?
i didn't saw the video.
After watching the struggle at 10:00 I looked for a better way. Ended up using my drill press - it worked like a charm.
Great Video, Many Thanks, and gloves are important but I never used them in the past, I do now!
Thanks : )
I use them when i don't need to grab small parts or if it's not too hot,otherwise it's a pair of sponges in no time.
It is also alot less messy if you completely drain the system of all fluid before removing caliper then use compressed air to remove the piston.
Right.
Never use Oil on Brake-Parts... oO
🤔🤔🤔
@stephen john gray Use brake fluid but only once the seals are in place just to help the piston in. The red rubber grease you get is for the slide pin rubber boots.
It's a great bike. Just needs some love. I'll try to put a vid up. Just got it last week.
If you do it,send the link to me please,my brother love the vfr...
People are wondering what to use to clean the caliper, well it's simple just get a can of brake clean and an old tooth brush and go to town. Also to slide piston back in well that's pretty simple too, just rub brake fluid on the outside of the piston and it goes right in. After all brake clean was designed for cleaning brake parts and well brake fluid is whats used in the system.(Not rocket science)
Mucky yes the fluid was from 2000 i believe....
"nothing on the piston seal other than hydraulic fluid"
I know i know...my brother told me too lol
i've used engine oil and all have been flushed ( i guess) when we purged the brake.
We filled up the master cylinder twice to do it.
lol it works better to install the cylinder if your put the seals in the right way and not backwards. There is a lip on the seals if you put them in right the cylinder slides right in.
+Shoms Photography the vast majority of brake seals are square section, there is no lip. it makes no difference which way round they go in.
You missed to mention that he fucked it up right in that moment when he used oil to put the seals and piston in... there is a special grease that has to be used because break fluid and oil does not get along well with each other. He will notice that the job will not last long and has no clue why! How about that?
A tiny bit of oil is not a problem,it is flushed with the air purge.
I don't think so... and it was plenty oil that he used! But that was mentioned by others before.
Good video,but I never use oil on rubber gaskets. I don't know why, it is because my friendly mechanic told me not to and I never ask why lol. I don't know what will happen if u put oil on never try oil on any gaskets.
Compatibility between materials can be an issue and cause seals to deteriorate with certain oils.
Here it's just to ease the insertion,the oil is flushed with the brake fluid during the air bleeding,so no worries.
But yes,you have to be careful ,specially on brakes.
For ex Humvees wich are parked a long time before being used use a silicon based brake fluid,wich do not deteriorate over long periods of time,allowing to reduce maintenance.
A specially designed brake fluid is used in those vehicles,and specific seals too.
You just need to know why,so you underdstand the risks and consequences.
@@michaelovitch thanks man,that's really helpful.
2 mins in and I can’t watch anymore.
It is difficult to watch, at times. They do get an "A" for effort/the whole D.I.Y. thing...
I’m working on my ATV brakes. I was thinking the rear master cylinder was bad.
But I think I’m going to rebuild the caliber first. I saw a few things that will save me some time and money in your video. Thanks.
: )
What's your problem on the braking system ?
michaelovitch I can not get good brake fluid flow without a ton of air while bleeding.
@@ProTechEpoxyFloors You you purged it several times and still have the problem,i would check the seal around the reservoir and the master cylinder,whetever it is,hose or seal,boot,gromet.
It's pulling air from somewhere,it's internal to the master,or external to it.
Brake caliper ,can't let air in,unless it's also leaking out fluid,being pressurized each time you brake.
michaelovitch yeah, that was my original thought. Replacing the master cylinder. Think I might rebuild the caliber with new seals while I have everything apart.
@@ProTechEpoxyFloors Fresh seals do not hurt for sure.
i did a master cylinder also,it can help you maybe : th-cam.com/video/NuFogawTc2w/w-d-xo.html
You can order seals for it too,and save money on that.
Just be sure to have a good bore in the master cylinder : no rust,no pitting,no scuffing.
Generally they are made of aluminium alloy on ATV,so it should be rust free inside.
Great Video, thanks, Im going to attempt my front caliper, any day now, now I have a much better idea. good work!
+Stephen Jobson
: )
Thank you !
when you was putting new caliper back in, you should have removed your cleaning bucket away. Thnk god you didnt drop calliper into it.
Good video though!
Thank you : )
michaelovitch b
It would have been helpful if you'd said what cleaning solution and lubricants you were using.
White spirit and brake fluid, just grease for the siding pins.
Quite usual stuff for mechanical work : )
Ano Po Yung nilagay niyo dun sa Oring Po grease or oil Po ba?
Very usefull video. after watch this i can assemble my bike breaks at home
thanx
+Pradeep Masane
Thanks to you : )
No, I took some still images but it was before the video cam was always on (grin).
Dang....nice video Bambang
Thanks : )
man your a awesome mechanic brother nice work.
Thank you very much : )
Excellent! I will save myself some money with this!
: )
Thanks !
back yard job...get by...save money.....is it done.....yep...……………….does it work...yep... steady with the brake fluid though....
Right : )
This is a sad joke of a caliper rebuild!!! You NEVER use any oil or grease on your rebuild. NEVER!!!
do you have a better/correct tutorial vid?
@@lfc214 Use brake fluid to lube the seals once in place, and the piston to help get it in.
Hi I just pic up the same bike looks like I might have to a majerscale brake job do let me know where you get your parts
Hi,
You can buy the seal kits at the dealer,or online."intruder 125 caliper seal kit" try that on google.
It's fairly cheap under 7 euros at the dealer for the caliper seals.
www.bike-parts-suz.com/suzuki-motorcycle/125-MOTO/INTRUDER/2001/VL125K1-E2-/SUSPENSION-BRAKES-WHEELS/FRONT-CALIPER/28/2863188/P/3144
Merci ! : )
Awesome job mate, simply done..
Learn a couple of nice things with this video...
Ps
I never use gloves, but, I will start to
Thanks.
On a du bol ici, ils doivent en utiliser deux ou trois fois dans l'année quand il neige trop pour les gens du coin lol ça devrait durer.
Oui il fallait le faire,le piston était de traviole dans l'étrier c'était tout coinçé et ll ne revenait pas en place.
Je ne sais pas pourquoi j'ai du forcer autant,j'ai huilé pourtant (huile moteur je voulais un bon coulissement, je sais il faut pas...)
ça doit être les tolérances qui sont faibles d'origine je pense.ou justement l'huile qui était trop épaisse
Considering how much effort you had to put into re-inserting the piston around the 10 minute mark I'm betting you inserted the pressure seal the wrong way around.
It's a square section seal.
As i know there is no right or wrong position to install it.
It was quite difficult to install the piston for sure.
Unless this brake is special, the dust seal is square (or in some cases round) but the pressure seal is trapezoidal in shape - unless the bike is from pre-1970. The "higher" of the walls should be inwards in the cylinder. The primary reason for this is not to make it easier to insert the piston (although that is a side effect) but to maximize the retention force the seal has. When fitted the wrong way around the seal makes it harder to insert the piston, and it also makes leakage much more likely - to the point that significant brake impairment is a possibility. The angle of the inner face of the pressure seal is so minute it is almost impossible to see with the naked eye, but you can easily feel it when rubbing your finger across the inner face. It slides easier in one direction than the other. When fitted correctly, if you slide your fingertip across the pressure seal in the cylinder you will feel virtually no resistance going in but a slight edge going out. Fitted incorrectly it is the opposite.
As a side note - and I am not criticizing the video here - using anything but brake fluid as a lubricant when rebuilding the caliper will contaminate the brake system. In fairness, oil is not the worst contaminant out there if the system doesn't leak, but brake fluid will lubricate just fine for the rebuild without introducing a contaminant at all. To be clear, I am talking about the internals of the caliper here - copper paste is just fine for the screws.
P.S. - I applaud anyone that services their bikes themselves to any degree. To me it is an important component in getting to know your vehicle. :)
Apropos: Brembo actually stopped selling caliper rebuild kits for a long time after getting into legal trouble after a customer fitted the pressure seal the wrong way.
I understand and i know that about their shapes.
But it was square,we checked.
We should have touched it more since you tell me it's can be more felt than seen.
We used oil knowing brake fluid is an oil too,and we purged the system well after.
Thank you for your comments,i will try to measure or feel carefuly next time.
We do eveything on our bikes and cars,i have few vids on bikes rebuilding if you want to take a look.
Greets from France : )
Why can i see brembo brand rebuild kits on the web ?
www.google.fr/search?q=brembo+rebuild+kits&biw=1920&bih=988&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi2zufL6_7RAhUZOsAKHUU3DaMQ_AUIBygC
Thank you Rabbit :)
+Tonny Anthony
That's a curious and attentive TH-camr right there !
hahahahaha thanks !
You know what ?
My brother's first name is Anthony,and we call him Tony : )
After how many years we need to change the kit
After 10 years it's a good idea to refurbish hydraulic systems,whatever it's brakes,or hydraulic rams,engine seals etc...
Seals don't last forever,they wear out,or just harden.
My wheels doesn't move freely because of engaged disc pads is there any solution...??
@@akmotivation1763
The pads are rubbing very little when it's working properly.
But you should be able to move the wheel freely by hand.
I think you have dirty or corroded pins on the calipers,or the pads do not slide correctly on the caliper itself.
More rarely the piston do not slide correctly inside the caliper.
Check if the pads can move freely on the caliper,then check the pins on the caliper,they must be clean and lubed.
Thank you for help...🤠
@@akmotivation1763 : )
They made all the same mistakes as I did. He sat the the pads outside of their housing ,that's why they bunched . Good video though.
I never knew a rabbit could rebuild brake calipers so well. Nice job! I have a bag of carrots for you if you rebuild my calipers on my xs11 (:
Lol you read it : )
Thank you for the carrots i appreciate that lol
You have a problem on your brakes ?
Well... that’s one way to remove a piston. I don’t have a compressor or tool to remove mine so I’ll do it his way but with some rags to stop fluid pissing everywhere over my bike and floor.
That's clever.
sloppy, but done
There is always one...
That's what she said...
and nice video.
12:30 I am guessing that is white silicone grease? Why put it on the threads? I was going to put locktite on my threads...
To avoid seizing,caused by corrosion.
No need loctite as i know on the pins retaining the pads.
very nicely done. real world work not fake like most vids :)
Thanks a lot : )
Très bien, comme d'habitude!
I am in the middle of this job at the moment. When you cleaned the piston and found the marks at 5:10 did you file that out or leave it?
Charlie Rutledge If it's on the edge, you can file them a bit,yes.(i did it a bit just to have a smooth edge)
But if the marks are on the seal's travel just polish them till it's smooth.
Otherwise you will hurt the seal and it will leak,so not brake anymore.
How do you install the anti rattle clips with the brake pads? I have all the parts but can’t seem to figure out how they go back together
What's the bike ?
Different bike from yours but I see the caliper and pads are exactly the same. I’m pretty sure I figured it out. Spring goes in the caliper and the pad fits behind the spring. Keeping tension and preventing the pads from rattling on the pin that holds them in place.
which oil u have used for lubricating piston n rubbers seals?
I used engine oil i think.
But you musn't,just use brake fluid,brake components seals are not compatible with other oils than brake fluid.
I knew i was going to flush the system a lot,but as principle ,do it right.
Great video, very detailed. What did you submerge the caliper in? Water? Brake fluid? Brake cleaner? Thanks!
michaelovitch Hi! Did you just use brake fluid to lube the piston and the seals or was that something else? Also why did you put caliper slide grease on the little tiny clips at the end? Thanks!
MotoBoy
Yes,just brake fluid !
It's oil ,it's lubing enough.
The grease on the clips allow the pads to slide easily on them,when they retract.
Normally it's not needed here, because the clips are coated (a surface treatment) with an alloy to help pads to slide easily.
you can do it though,it will not hurt anything. : )
michaelovitch Cool thanks. I just have one tip for this video. For the actual main seal (not dust seal) its really important to make sure you put it in the right way, but you don't explain it anywhere!
MotoBoy
There is no right way,it's a square seal,no specific side to install it ! : )
Very nice! I like your style ^^^
Thank you : )
Very informative man
Thank you.
what is that white lubricant did you use? Can we use bearing grease for alternative?
It's just some silicone paste.
Yes,you can use bearing grease,but molybdene grease or graphite grease will last longer and resist a bit more on high temperatures.
hi, after you release the brake lever, what is the mechanism that pulls
the pistons back? are there springs somewhere in the brakes that pulls
the piston or brake pads back to their original position?
Hi,
on the rear calipers,following cars,the parking brake hand lever or pedal, actuate the piston to lock the parking brake.
The mechanism is often,as i know, a cable wich pull on a lever wich rotate the piston,just next to the caliper.
On the piston,there is a specific pattern,to use a special tool ,wich allow you to do the same ,by hand,when you service the brakes.
in any other caliper the piston back up itself thanks to the fact the master cylinder once not actuated, suck the brake fluid back up,so the piston retract itself.
I really don't understand why no one has designed self retracting brake pads??
they all retract themselves on all the calipers wich are not used to actuate the parking brake.
the fluid sucked in the master cylinder reservoir pull the caliper in the same time.
You could retract the pads completly each time you release the brake pedal,but it would be a very slow system to react in case of emergency.
the pads must be the closest as possible to the disc,to reduce the stroke,so the braking time duration/reaction time.
Yes what I mean is if you design pads that quickly retract but give a min distance of a gap, may prevent some sticking issues.. Idk
You have sticking issues with the actual systems only if the seals inside the caliper are dead,or only if the sliding pins on the caliper are corroded in the guides.
If you clean and grease them each time you change the pads,you will have no problems for sure.
1:45 Yes genius, now you actually need to change the disk too, because he is socket up with brakes oil.
Brakes oil mustn't touch the disks ! it will never be the same again even after cleaning with alcohol/ brake cleaner spray.
Next time you need to take the caliper out and do that on a table.
It's not cast iron,it's stainless steel disc brake on motorcycles.
They don't soak up oils like on cars or trucks with cast iron discs.
Just degrease it like we did with some soap or detergent and you are good to go.
Look at motorcycles,you never see corroded discs even if they don't roll.
Dapat my aftermarket n stainless piston NG caliper ....madali linisin at d nangangalaeang
Cheers and great video!
Charlie Rutledge Thank you mucho !
Whats that they put on the seals? Oil or?
We use just brake fluid ,it's an oil : )
*****
Yes,like coolant.
Those products have lubricating properties,wich the ones i wanted to remember.
All those products are oils.
Greasy viscous,slippery and liquid.
what was the white stuff you applied on the bolts? thread locker?
It's silicon paste.
It's good for lubrication,even if there is some moisture,and it do not hurt the boots or rubber parts sealing the slides : )
that piston went in to hard those break clearly didn't bleed correct
nice for the dog
: )
Thanks, and nice dog
Thank you : )
I will tell him : )
pains me to watch him trying to put this piston back in, just use an old brake pad to force it down.
what fluid is that??? is it water???
When in the video ?
You are good man thanks
Thanks : )
what is the white paste thing? its not a tooth paste, right?
It's silicone paste : )
right,no tooth paste lol
Une chance d'avoir rarement du sel... En RP j'ai l'impression qu'ils mettent plus de sel que de neige :-X.
Ouais il faut pas normalement mais bon... C'est comme moi avec la graisse, normalement faut pas pourtant ça simplifie la tache énormément et lors du démontage la graisse s'est faite becter par le dot 4. Donc c'est pas bien grave. Puis toi pour l'huile il y a de forte probabilité qu'il soit parti lors de la purge.
Comme d'hab en tout cas bonne vidéo =)
Graceful
For real,or sarcastic ?
might tell in the description to be careful not splattering brake fluid everywhere. shit is really corrosive man. have a nice day
+magic biker boy
You're right and done.
Thanks to you.
Have a nice week end.
Fuck aiy that's important especially when working with customers bikes
What solution are you using to clean the parts
+affane78
I am also curious what is that white thing you put on the screws and another part of caliper?
Ivan Dolinić
It's silicone paste,to lube the sliding pins : )
affane78
White spirit : )
michaelovitch Heck is that??
affane78
i think it's called naphta in your country
It's used to clean glycero paint stains and stuff like that.
It's a petroleum based product,quite greasy and smelly.
No talking to give clear directions on what’s going on? I thought this was going to be a tutorial with talking.
ya, a fucking jack rabbit, hella fast, or your camera man is really stable, lol, anyways could you please include in your description what fluid you used to clean in (vinegar?) and that you are rebuilding a single piston caliper, i was getting worried that with all these multi piston videos that mine was going to be different, yours is the exact model as mine though
+aterack833
I see you read the description.... : )
You can use just car soap and warm water,it's good enough,brake cleaner,but here we have used acetone to clean the caliper : )
It was on the shelf this day ,and degrease things pretty good.
thanks, i couldn't wait, so i soaked them in pine-sol and vinegar, and got the main grease off then took the line off between them and hooked up the master cylinder and popped them out, cleaned the seal lands and sanded with 2000 grit like in another video using brake fluid as lube, then popped them together (using the old seals again for now) and they work great, lots of force and they move back in when the handlel is released
+aterack833
You had a problem with them ?
bought the bike used, unknown condition, brakes stuck, so i did a rebuild but without new parts, it will be easier to really rebuild them when i get seals and new pads
Nice Work
Thank you : )
ANIMALZZZZZ!!! LOL...good vid!
Thanks !
Ooow that was mucky, and the dust seal was really dead.
I did the same to my little kh125 disk brake, all the rubbers had gone odd.
My local bike shop said "nothing on the piston seal other than hydraulic fluid".
Like the high speed toothbrush cleaning, now for the flossing and mouthwash lol :-))
I did gasp when the brake pads were being put in, and fell out, all done above a container of mixed crud!! eeeekkkk!!!, you like to live dangeriously lol.
All ok now?, not catching on disk?
I laughed my arse off at 50 seconds in ,,Holy Shit those pads were screwed and I have seen some pretty ordinary ( Ordinary = Not real good ) pads in my time ,,,these I will have to rate as Number 2 on my Shittiest Pads I've ever seen score board ,,,now on with the rest of the show lol
What's was the number one like ?
@@michaelovitch ,,Worse if its possible and they were mine lol
Why not use a C-clamp to press the piston back in?
+B Epps
I think it's because i didn't want to get up and go in the other tool box,few meters away.
Really.
LOL
+B Epps
: )
Thanks man
: )
great video I hope I do that too.
Thank you !
Une super vidéo encore. ;)
Thank you boucoup
Merci very much : )
Esta bien el video pero me gustaria que explicara el proceso
: )
ok
Best not to follow this method, it's a horror show of everything wrong with motorcycle maintenance and TH-cam in general for leaving it stay up. Instead buy a manual or look for an upload of someone doing it that knows what they are doing and doing it safely
Did you notice the sound at 9:51 ???
While I appreciate the intent of your video I had some issues too.
1. Agreed. Holding the pads over the cleaning solution while installing was kinda different. I would have NEVER done that.
2. Wondering how the puck/piston got chewed up. Did that happened while trying to get it outta the caliper? Looked like plier chews to me.
3. Seemed like the piston was really hard to push back it. While hydraulics (we called them hydrastics in the service) are powerful it looks like it would also be hard for the hydraulics would have a harder time with getting the piston back out. If you look at a Harley brake video here the pistons easily push into the caliper. Maybe with the new seals it was harder. I saw that you had to push so hard your arms were shaking.
4. Again agree. I saw all that white grease and wondered how long it would take to migrate to the pads. Why didn't you use some Permatex Ultra caliper lube instead?
5. It appears that this is an older bike probably using dot 3? Splashing the brake fluid everywhere was crazy.
6. In regard to getting the piston back in, I've used a C-clamp to put even pressure on the piston to push it in , evenly.
Summary: I think you were doing the best you could with the tools you had and the environment you were working in. Making some minor changes to your process might save you time and money down the road. Clearly this was shade tree mechanics at it's finest.
Thanks : )
1 sure,not clever
2 the owner did it,that's why i repaired the caliper
3 it was quite hard to install the piston,but everything was working normally when we tested the bike on the road.
4 it's silicone paste,heat transfer silicone paste,wich do not drip,but dries,at worst.
You can use molybdene grease too,it's very good for brakes,last long and do not drip.
It's easy to find for everything heavy equipment or excavating equipment related.
5 It's a 2000 bike so not dot 3 as i remeber but dot 4.
6 i still do not have a short big c clamp lol
I have a master cylinder to rebuild on my car ,stay tuned lol : )
3. yea the C clamp would have definitely helped with pushing the caliper back in.
4. good to know, i will look for some of that myself.
thanks for sharing!
Perhaps watch video before commenting.
Point 2!
Why not just buy a whole new caliper?
The price is completly different lol
new caliper = $$$
seal kit = $
beau travail et minutieux ;-)
Merci : )