Subscribed. #150. I already watched some of your other videos and already know you're honest and knowledgeable. Your videos are informative and I appreciate the content.
+heymisterderp That's awesome and I appreciate the feedback. I'm just a well-researched novice, and while I want to help others like myself, I don't pretend to know everything. If anyone notices me doing or saying something incorrect, I expect to be called out in the comments section!
Just removed my compressor from my 82zxt, from the bottom, what a job, ended up removing my sway bar, but like you said nice feeling, Dont think it worked anyway. Good videos by the way, thanks for taking the time.
Great video! Feels good to get that extra A/C weight off the vehicle! I removed all the A/C hoses and brackets off my '72 as well. Removed the Smog equipment as well (was a CA car) and installed a single belt pulley/Harmonic balancer. Bye bye 50-60 lbs!
I don't plan on driving the car much in the summer and A/C components were pretty far gone, so I've been removing the components from the car one by one. My engine couldn't really spare the horses anyway, so it feels good to remove them.
Hey how about a clutch and main seal? do you have any oil leaks from down around the bottom of the bell housing weep hole? I need to do one of those as well. There is a good video out there on this but its on an engine that is out of the car. I am planning on doing one with it in place.
+Dave WM yeah that's definitely on my list. I honestly am a little apprehensive about doing that myself but I'm researching myself as well. Maybe if there's enough interest, I'll try to live feed myself doing it so I can get some real time feedback!
that would be cool! From what I can see the biggest issue is getting the car up high enough to have plenty of space, then a jack to help you with the heft of it. It would be a good idea to have some help just in case you get jammed up and need a hand.
You got great contents, and I truly enjoy your channel, it's very informative. I am also in the process of restoring a 1976 280z. I just have a quick question regarding the distributor advance canisitor. I noticed that mine didn't have a vacuum hose hooked up to it. I looked around and couldn't find a loose vacuum hose anywhere. Do you know where it supposed to go? I am dealing with a slight hesitation when the car is under load, it back fires a little and I really want to get rid of that hesitation. Any advices?
Mine is connected to the throttle body. There is a small "nipple" on the TB, it might be hard to find but its usually connected to the dizzy and the carbon canister via a hosr splitter.
I see there is a vacuum hose coming from the TB, then it splits into 2, one goes to the carbon canister, one goes to I believe it's called the "Vacuum Switch Valve" that sits on top the thermostat housing, and then there is hose coming out of that valve. I assume that's hose that should go to the distributor advance canister. In your car, I don't see that valve. Is this route correct?
My vacuum line connects from the throttle body to the dizzy. I dont think I have a vacuum switch valve. Try looking at the engine diagrams of the FSM, you might be able to find your answer there
you may want to at least leave the AC evap etc.. besides being hard to remove, if you ever decide to sell the car AC capability is a big value adder, esp in the warmer climates. I am glad I had mine today, it was in the upper 90's with heat index well in the 100's today, it was great having the inside of the car in the 60's. One of the biggest creature comfort benefits of a 280 over the 240 is the vastly improved AC. I am glad you got some work done while the head was off, not a lot of Z video how to's lately, keep up the good work.BTW if the compressor is not locked up it may still be good, those SWP123's while heavy are very durable, my 75 is still working fine. I think a lot of folks go for the new vane types, but I wonder about how long they will last. Those old swash plates were built like tanks, and as you noted with a weight penalty to boot. If you want to keep the value of the evap per above, you prob should remove the TVX and store it in a dry climate controlled environment to limit rust and corrosion on a NLA part like that.
+Dave WM Hey Dave, thanks for the note! I actually plan on eventually getting the AC to work again, just not this summer. I'm keeping all the parts I pull out so that I can slowly inspect and attempt to replace any nonfunctioning parts. I'm just pulling anything off of this side of the firewall to save weight and get them out of the way when I'm working on other things.
What kind do replacement distributor did you use?. My car hasn’t run in 18 yrs. I don’t know the condition or status of my distributor. It I can’t get the car to run, I’ve read people putting ZX distributors in a older Z with success. Where did you get yours and what do you recommend.
Sailfish is my first three car and it's really been fun but now it's giving me a fit when he fuel injectors flooding number 5 and 6 cylinders now they spark advance put on a new fuel pump fuel filter and some vacuum lines in the more I do to it the worse it gets
need help this is my first Datsun Z car everything looks great in doing restoration body paint and other not really a mechanic then you fuel injection started acting up flooding the number 5 and 6 cylinders running awful this all started when I started replacing rotten vacuum lines now there's a strange sucking sound in the front distributor run it down to the spark advance Auto Parts store doesn't have one
Subscribed. #150. I already watched some of your other videos and already know you're honest and knowledgeable. Your videos are informative and I appreciate the content.
+heymisterderp That's awesome and I appreciate the feedback. I'm just a well-researched novice, and while I want to help others like myself, I don't pretend to know everything. If anyone notices me doing or saying something incorrect, I expect to be called out in the comments section!
Just removed my compressor from my 82zxt, from the bottom, what a job, ended up removing my sway bar, but like you said nice feeling, Dont think it worked anyway.
Good videos by the way, thanks for taking the time.
Hey Charles, you're very welcome!
Great video! Feels good to get that extra A/C weight off the vehicle! I removed all the A/C hoses and brackets off my '72 as well. Removed the Smog equipment as well (was a CA car) and installed a single belt pulley/Harmonic balancer. Bye bye 50-60 lbs!
I don't plan on driving the car much in the summer and A/C components were pretty far gone, so I've been removing the components from the car one by one. My engine couldn't really spare the horses anyway, so it feels good to remove them.
understood, come down to o town to visit, I will take you for a ride, even in the summer!!
my dizzy is stuck in my engine I think, I broke a mounting bolt and timing bolt at the head. any suggestions?
Hey how about a clutch and main seal? do you have any oil leaks from down around the bottom of the bell housing weep hole? I need to do one of those as well. There is a good video out there on this but its on an engine that is out of the car. I am planning on doing one with it in place.
+Dave WM yeah that's definitely on my list. I honestly am a little apprehensive about doing that myself but I'm researching myself as well. Maybe if there's enough interest, I'll try to live feed myself doing it so I can get some real time feedback!
that would be cool! From what I can see the biggest issue is getting the car up high enough to have plenty of space, then a jack to help you with the heft of it. It would be a good idea to have some help just in case you get jammed up and need a hand.
Do I have to remove the sway bar to replace my AC compressor on my 83 280 POS
You got great contents, and I truly enjoy your channel, it's very informative. I am also in the process of restoring a 1976 280z. I just have a quick question regarding the distributor advance canisitor. I noticed that mine didn't have a vacuum hose hooked up to it. I looked around and couldn't find a loose vacuum hose anywhere. Do you know where it supposed to go? I am dealing with a slight hesitation when the car is under load, it back fires a little and I really want to get rid of that hesitation. Any advices?
Mine is connected to the throttle body. There is a small "nipple" on the TB, it might be hard to find but its usually connected to the dizzy and the carbon canister via a hosr splitter.
I see there is a vacuum hose coming from the TB, then it splits into 2, one goes to the carbon canister, one goes to I believe it's called the "Vacuum Switch Valve" that sits on top the thermostat housing, and then there is hose coming out of that valve. I assume that's hose that should go to the distributor advance canister. In your car, I don't see that valve. Is this route correct?
My vacuum line connects from the throttle body to the dizzy. I dont think I have a vacuum switch valve. Try looking at the engine diagrams of the FSM, you might be able to find your answer there
Can you show and ignition coil swap‽, thank you!
you may want to at least leave the AC evap etc.. besides being hard to remove, if you ever decide to sell the car AC capability is a big value adder, esp in the warmer climates. I am glad I had mine today, it was in the upper 90's with heat index well in the 100's today, it was great having the inside of the car in the 60's. One of the biggest creature comfort benefits of a 280 over the 240 is the vastly improved AC. I am glad you got some work done while the head was off, not a lot of Z video how to's lately, keep up the good work.BTW if the compressor is not locked up it may still be good, those SWP123's while heavy are very durable, my 75 is still working fine. I think a lot of folks go for the new vane types, but I wonder about how long they will last. Those old swash plates were built like tanks, and as you noted with a weight penalty to boot. If you want to keep the value of the evap per above, you prob should remove the TVX and store it in a dry climate controlled environment to limit rust and corrosion on a NLA part like that.
+Dave WM Hey Dave, thanks for the note! I actually plan on eventually getting the AC to work again, just not this summer. I'm keeping all the parts I pull out so that I can slowly inspect and attempt to replace any nonfunctioning parts. I'm just pulling anything off of this side of the firewall to save weight and get them out of the way when I'm working on other things.
What kind do replacement distributor did you use?. My car hasn’t run in 18 yrs. I don’t know the condition or status of my distributor. It I can’t get the car to run, I’ve read people putting ZX distributors in a older Z with success. Where did you get yours and what do you recommend.
Here’s what mine sounds like when trying to start. th-cam.com/video/9XR6z07fkcM/w-d-xo.html
Sorry for the late reply bud, my dizzy is from zcardepot. Really pretty expensive, but it was the right part and hassle free.
how many distributor rotor in 280z ?
my 1976 dizzy has 2 contacts..why is that?
Sailfish is my first three car and it's really been fun but now it's giving me a fit when he fuel injectors flooding number 5 and 6 cylinders now they spark advance put on a new fuel pump fuel filter and some vacuum lines in the more I do to it the worse it gets
need help this is my first Datsun Z car everything looks great in doing restoration body paint and other not really a mechanic then you fuel injection started acting up flooding the number 5 and 6 cylinders running awful this all started when I started replacing rotten vacuum lines now there's a strange sucking sound in the front distributor run it down to the spark advance Auto Parts store doesn't have one
Good