God i love your videos :) allways looking forward to see you build on your car. It really helps me (i am going to start out as a mechanic in a few months) and its sooo relaxing to watch. aannnd its my dream car
When you do your valves hot, you most likely will have to re-warm your valves half way through. They start cooling off quick, if you have a lazer heat reader that would help, more then 10 Degs less, you need to reheat your valves. This is only if you have solid lifters, otherwise just do it cold, not a problem. Enjoy the process, love the saying.
That's a great tip. I don't do the valves hot for this reason. I've read in multiple forum posts that most people just adjust them cold and not bother with the "warm" adjustment, and the car apparently runs just fine. It's already quite cold here in VA, so I imagine trying to do them while the engine is warm will just be a major pain in the neck.
Yeap, working on the EFI right now. It'll be maybe a week or two before that comes up. Check out episode 21 on the complete guide to the EFI wiring harness, along with Episode 13 and 14.
how did the gasket look on the oil spray bar? mine cracked, I ended up making one from some gasket stock. I can tell you they oil very well at low RPMs, funny I just recently tested this by removing the valve cover, plugging the breather hose to seal the vacuum, and started it. I had a cardboard dam around the entire top of the head to catch the oil slung all over the place. You can see how well it is oiled by all the spray that is slung off the cam lobes and onto the cardboard. I think its worth the mess just to confirm everything is working as it should (even with the cardboard all around the head it will still get a good amount of oil on the fendor/hood/windshield/engine. What would be neat to have is take an old valve cover and cut the top off, replace with sheet plexiglass and use to actually watch the oil process (well maybe for a few seconds until its so covered with oil that seeing may be hard to do.
That's very interesting. I didn't realize that the oil spray bar had a gasket. There seems to be some conflicting information on this online. When I took mine apart, I didn't notice a gasket so i didn't install one. It sounds like most people just cut up gasket material for a DIY solution?
can only say mine had one. Did not do any investigation a the time to see if there was an OE solution just made one up. Seems like a good idea to insure a leak free area for the junction. here is mineth-cam.com/video/zb6Ng0jGujk/w-d-xo.html
+Dave WM I'll have to look into it, thanks for the heads up. I'll have to readjust the valves and retighten the head studs after the first drive, so I'll install some then if I need it.
just for the sake of it I would recommend checking for good oil spray by starting the engine with the cover off (make up a good cardboard dam all around, it will fling oil everywhere and have someone else start and stop so you don't let it idle for long). If nothing else it will give you confidence the camshaft is getting good spray (did I say it will fling oil everywhere?).
Currently restoring my datsun 280z 6cyn non-turbo. Base off your advise from your videos got the engine running but has issues staying running sometime it just dies immediately or runs until i snap the trottle or it riv up but it clearly is miss firing found out my wiring is corroded. So having trouble with that problem was thinking of trying the fuel system sensor sending unit or/and pump hydraulic unit. But having fun with it bit by bit just got all the lights to work horns and wipers was blown/corroded wiring-fuses. Hope you could send a few tips cause im stuck right now with this problem hope to drive it by next year when i get her smog after the new brake system i need to install later the 5 speed will hit road again. Poor thing was abandoned i just got ownership last 3 months made huge progress off your video. Many thxs.
Hey Abraham, nice to "meet" you. I'm not an expert in diagnosis, and it's hard to tell without seeing/hearing the engine, but a few thoughts here: I would think you'd want to get all of your EFI wiring issues worked out first especially if you think that the wiring is corroded. That being said, I doubt that's the sole issue (unless your ECU is faulty) since the car will still run, albeit badly, if some of the sensors aren't connected properly or even without 1-2 injectors. You should also check your spark timing. If you don't have a timing light, unlock the distributor and twist it slowly while the car is idling and see if it sounds better. If your car has trouble staying running, I'd check the fuel delivery system, especially if it dies when you rev it up. This is my best guess, especially if your car has been sitting for a while. 1) Replace your fuel filter, it's probably clogged 2) put a fuel pressure gauge in the line (after the fuel filter) and check that you have proper pressure. If you don't, you might have clogged fuel lines, fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pump.
Restoration For Beginners i replace the fuel filter it was backwards and clogged it was cranked but not firing. Then the alternator wasnt charging solid corroded replaced. The the battery was charging again. It was an empty tank when i added fuel but wounder if i still need to drop the tank anyway. It was abandoned for a year and a half on farm property along with other cars it was the best one made an offer got her delivered the next week the rest were well hoestly way too much work losr cause. Spark Plugs were burnt black wires damege cap cracked rotor worn all replace. Timing was off by advance 4 degrees but was Misfiring and knocks. 5-6 werent getting fuel you know that part i replace already several rubber lines were hard crack or leaking. Canister fikter was blacker then assfault replace it honestly was difficult to get thx god WIX still made them. Radiator was leaking i replace that. All lights werent working/ corrosion played a big part there and a few blown fuses now she lights up the the whole garage. But cant get the turn signal switch to work but hazards but i need a new hazard switch. It already has pro brakes and rims tires but worn and vacuum booster isnt working and no brake fuild leak somewhere hitting that sec to last with body repair and wielding. Fuel gauge is the only one not working all original dash and steering wheel literally bubble up blister hot. Has two sets of internal cabin pieces all black or original copper. Paint job still kinda intact but chips cracks and gloss nearly all peeled away. Found the blasted key hiden. Under the spare tire thx god with lugs had to hotwire.exhuast repairs were made and recently a new cat i got lucky with this find thx to my buddy who said drop everything come now. Best 2k i ever spent ill check those others out and prob. But saving to to repace the pump cause the pressure was none existing at thefilter but at the injectors were syphing the fuel. Work 60% done on mechanical the other 40% is the more by experience expensive part so taking it part by part two a month.
God i love your videos :) allways looking forward to see you build on your car. It really helps me (i am going to start out as a mechanic in a few months) and its sooo relaxing to watch. aannnd its my dream car
Haha great to hear man, best of luck to you.
I'm having trouble with the damn sprocket.. came off easy but can't get on as easy as you did.. any tips?.. great videos by the way
When you do your valves hot, you most likely will have to re-warm your valves half way through. They start cooling off quick, if you have a lazer heat reader that would help, more then 10 Degs less, you need to reheat your valves. This is only if you have solid lifters, otherwise just do it cold, not a problem. Enjoy the process, love the saying.
That's a great tip. I don't do the valves hot for this reason. I've read in multiple forum posts that most people just adjust them cold and not bother with the "warm" adjustment, and the car apparently runs just fine. It's already quite cold here in VA, so I imagine trying to do them while the engine is warm will just be a major pain in the neck.
Do you have the part number or link for the ARP studs?
Hey. Are you planning to do a video on the efi system? Can you talk about how to check the wiring and the fuel pump?
Yeap, working on the EFI right now. It'll be maybe a week or two before that comes up.
Check out episode 21 on the complete guide to the EFI wiring harness, along with Episode 13 and 14.
how did the gasket look on the oil spray bar? mine cracked, I ended up making one from some gasket stock. I can tell you they oil very well at low RPMs, funny I just recently tested this by removing the valve cover, plugging the breather hose to seal the vacuum, and started it. I had a cardboard dam around the entire top of the head to catch the oil slung all over the place. You can see how well it is oiled by all the spray that is slung off the cam lobes and onto the cardboard. I think its worth the mess just to confirm everything is working as it should (even with the cardboard all around the head it will still get a good amount of oil on the fendor/hood/windshield/engine. What would be neat to have is take an old valve cover and cut the top off, replace with sheet plexiglass and use to actually watch the oil process (well maybe for a few seconds until its so covered with oil that seeing may be hard to do.
That's very interesting. I didn't realize that the oil spray bar had a gasket. There seems to be some conflicting information on this online. When I took mine apart, I didn't notice a gasket so i didn't install one. It sounds like most people just cut up gasket material for a DIY solution?
can only say mine had one. Did not do any investigation a the time to see if there was an OE solution just made one up. Seems like a good idea to insure a leak free area for the junction. here is mineth-cam.com/video/zb6Ng0jGujk/w-d-xo.html
+Dave WM I'll have to look into it, thanks for the heads up. I'll have to readjust the valves and retighten the head studs after the first drive, so I'll install some then if I need it.
just for the sake of it I would recommend checking for good oil spray by starting the engine with the cover off (make up a good cardboard dam all around, it will fling oil everywhere and have someone else start and stop so you don't let it idle for long). If nothing else it will give you confidence the camshaft is getting good spray (did I say it will fling oil everywhere?).
Man, someone should produce an acrylic "examination" cover so that we can see inside the head without making a giant mess everywhere.
Currently restoring my datsun 280z 6cyn non-turbo. Base off your advise from your videos got the engine running but has issues staying running sometime it just dies immediately or runs until i snap the trottle or it riv up but it clearly is miss firing found out my wiring is corroded. So having trouble with that problem was thinking of trying the fuel system sensor sending unit or/and pump hydraulic unit. But having fun with it bit by bit just got all the lights to work horns and wipers was blown/corroded wiring-fuses. Hope you could send a few tips cause im stuck right now with this problem hope to drive it by next year when i get her smog after the new brake system i need to install later the 5 speed will hit road again. Poor thing was abandoned i just got ownership last 3 months made huge progress off your video. Many thxs.
Hey Abraham, nice to "meet" you. I'm not an expert in diagnosis, and it's hard to tell without seeing/hearing the engine, but a few thoughts here:
I would think you'd want to get all of your EFI wiring issues worked out first especially if you think that the wiring is corroded. That being said, I doubt that's the sole issue (unless your ECU is faulty) since the car will still run, albeit badly, if some of the sensors aren't connected properly or even without 1-2 injectors.
You should also check your spark timing. If you don't have a timing light, unlock the distributor and twist it slowly while the car is idling and see if it sounds better.
If your car has trouble staying running, I'd check the fuel delivery system, especially if it dies when you rev it up. This is my best guess, especially if your car has been sitting for a while. 1) Replace your fuel filter, it's probably clogged 2) put a fuel pressure gauge in the line (after the fuel filter) and check that you have proper pressure. If you don't, you might have clogged fuel lines, fuel filter, or a faulty fuel pump.
Restoration For Beginners i replace the fuel filter it was backwards and clogged it was cranked but not firing. Then the alternator wasnt charging solid corroded replaced. The the battery was charging again. It was an empty tank when i added fuel but wounder if i still need to drop the tank anyway. It was abandoned for a year and a half on farm property along with other cars it was the best one made an offer got her delivered the next week the rest were well hoestly way too much work losr cause. Spark Plugs were burnt black wires damege cap cracked rotor worn all replace. Timing was off by advance 4 degrees but was Misfiring and knocks. 5-6 werent getting fuel you know that part i replace already several rubber lines were hard crack or leaking. Canister fikter was blacker then assfault replace it honestly was difficult to get thx god WIX still made them. Radiator was leaking i replace that. All lights werent working/ corrosion played a big part there and a few blown fuses now she lights up the the whole garage. But cant get the turn signal switch to work but hazards but i need a new hazard switch. It already has pro brakes and rims tires but worn and vacuum booster isnt working and no brake fuild leak somewhere hitting that sec to last with body repair and wielding. Fuel gauge is the only one not working all original dash and steering wheel literally bubble up blister hot. Has two sets of internal cabin pieces all black or original copper. Paint job still kinda intact but chips cracks and gloss nearly all peeled away. Found the blasted key hiden. Under the spare tire thx god with lugs had to hotwire.exhuast repairs were made and recently a new cat i got lucky with this find thx to my buddy who said drop everything come now. Best 2k i ever spent ill check those others out and prob. But saving to to repace the pump cause the pressure was none existing at thefilter but at the injectors were syphing the fuel. Work 60% done on mechanical the other 40% is the more by experience expensive part so taking it part by part two a month.
good to see your videos.. there's a blank at 12.36.
Awesome, thanks for the call out. Looks like I just had some raw footage towards the end there. Edited!
Do you sometimes look at these videos and how it comes about when you have a head camera?
Not sure I understand what you mean?
At 4:00, engine repair porn music.