Saved me and my install. Specification said 1/2 inch connection but something wasn't right whatever I did. Thanks for saving me from striping the connector on the water heater.
Hope it works beater for you than me. We had one that did not work after 94 days, Lows had replace it with a new one. Same thing happen but was in 89 days. After a bit of trouble with Lows we got a full refund. Ended up going with a Rinnai had it working for 2 years now no trouble ! God Bless Brother.
Must admit that we had a concern about that, which is why we bought a three year no question replacement warranty from Amazon for an additional $19. That seems cheap to have a hassle free ability to return. Figure if it makes it to three years, it should last a few more than that. Sorry to hear you had trouble though! Blessings to you as well. Thanks for watching and commenting!
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Thanks for this. I'm replacing a really old 9kw unit and wanted to upgrade to a higher output model if the wire allowed, but unfortunately it's wired with 8/2 and running 6/2 would add like $380 to the cost of the project....that supplies a single faucet and shower
the compression fitting on the heater has untapered threads, as does the FIP adapter. Using pipe dope or tape isn't an ideal way to create a seal....but often works. if you look into the adapter, you'll see it has the chamfer that mates to a compression ring, so as odd as it sounds, the "correct" way to attach the adapter is to use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe with the compression ring on it inside the two fittings. a piece of pipe about 1-1/4" long will do. All the pipe is doing is preventing the compression ring from collapsing. The ring itself provides the seal between the tank fitting and the adapter, and no dope/tape is needed on the threads. Some people put a turn or two of tape on just to minimize the potential for corrosion. when installed this way, the adapter will be tight with about three threads still showing on the tank fitting.
hello. thank you for this great information. I bought this unit last year and now is leaking on the sides where the pipes are attached. what would u recommend. Thank you
thank you. I had the same issue. The documentation for using the adapter was NONEXISTENT when I installed mine in 2017, and so far, April 2020 this is the ONLY fragment of info I have found.!!! WHY these were ever made with a fitting unlike regular water heaters is baffling... and when you don't know much about FIP, compression, etc, it is overwhelming...
Just had an Eco smart 8 electric water heater installed in my 1 bedroom apt. 1 shower 1 bathroom sink 1 kitchen sink. Thus far all is good. Good heat even for shower. Not untouchable hot, but right at the bearable mark, at its full heat output. I wanted a Black + Decker unit that was on a memorial day sale, but they were all sold out. For a small situation like mine its perfect. Not in love with all the plastics used in its interior... but im not too certain that the unit gets hot enough to melt the plastic, as would likely be the case if it were any measures hotter. Ide say its a decent buy. but i would also find out what brands Hotel chains typically use. As some have switched to localized room heating solutions to save in costs. find out what brand their using and youl liking see a product line more competent for quality durability and long term heavy usage.
Thanks for this video, stranger. It was very helpful to me. Go figure, the idea of adding an extra fixture in my shower has led me to reconsider my entire plumbing system lol. Ain't that always the way?
Last time I checked; wiring electricity to the heater was also involved I want a heater like your's one that doesn't involve electricity must be sort of nice
10-gallon, 110V plug-in tank-style water heaters. 1440 watts - 13 amps at 110 volts. $200 and less all over the internet. Install it under the sink, insulate the hell out of the cabinet and turn it down to "vacation" or off when you won't be the shop for a while. Don't want to heat water when you're not using it period? Put the outlet on a switch and flip it on when you get to the shop or put it on a timer to kick on an hour before you plan to be in the shop next. You'll have hot water before you have dirty hands. The tankless water heater is 8000 watts which is 36+ amps at 220 volts. If it were 110 like the tank style heater it would draw almost 75 amps. 8000 watts is more than most full-size 40-50 gallon tank heaters draw and that think will suck more juice than probably any two-three woodworking machines you've got running simultaneously. Max flow rate on those heaters is 1.55 gpm and I suppose that is at its max temp increase over inlet, which is what you will actually get no matter what "target" you program in. The "overview" I found online says the product is "configured for" applications with inlet water temps of 67 degrees and above. And the "specified" outlet temp is 105 degrees. With 67 degree inlet water heated all the way to a blistering 105 degrees you can theoretically get 1.44 gallons per minute of flow. I notice you kind of didn't point the camera at the line during your "performance test" but I'm fairly sure your flow rate is far short of 1.44 gallons per minute and typically "hot" is "defined" as "too warm to keep your hand on or in". 105 degrees is a good temp to set a hot tub to for winter use. Not so much for getting things clean. I honestly do not get why people who can do electrical wiring can't do basic electrical math and figure out that tankless electric water heaters are a joke. For $25 or less you can go buy a good John Deere engine block heater element, a cheap tin pail and have 2 gallons of actual hot water in minutes and be time and energy ahead of trying to get anything clean with 105-degree water.
Thanks for the time you put into the comment. This tankless water heater is working great for us and we purchased it for $170. We're really happy with it and the endless supply of on demand hot water it produces. Really, we have no complaints with it. Blessings to you and yours!
I concur with your narrative, tank less water heaters are not efficient especially when the average inlet water temp. is 43 degrees or less in the wintertime. A tank heater insulated and on a timer or manually controlled will save money and work much better.
Next time before you turn the power on, run the water on your highest fixture to get all the air out of the system. Prevents any potential damage to the heating coils. Otherwise nicely done! Good on you to put tef tape in the threads. Any thread on thread sealing should have it unless there is a washer like hose type connections.
Great. Thanks for you video. Just a question: can I do the electrical connections just like a regular plug con the correct wire suggested on the instructions? Very simple explanation helps a lots to decide change the monster and expensive tank for my apartment. Thanks again.
ok commercial plumber here. Iin future when wrapping tape around thread, do not put in on the first thread of male adapter, so when you put female adapter on, tape will not be cut off and deposited into system.
Great Video... You have no idea how much I appreciate this video... but I have a few questions... 1) Did you have to put any Barrier between the Plywood Wall and the tankless water heater??? I would think it would get too hot for the wall... 2) I want to put this in a small vintage travel trailer and all I have is 110/120 ... is that enough electricity to run this equipment? Or does it need 220? Thank you so much for sharing this video.
I just purchased a Rheem 56 amp heater. Says it can flow 4 gpm. But the only ones that support 110v are the very small remote heaters that are designed to be used per application IE a single sink faucet. Any service panel that I know of is a 240v service so I feel that you have it and don't know you do
Great stuff! I have considered installing these in the house before. Not sure if I will ever get to it...but i have been considering it. Thank you! - Mike
Thanks, Mike! The folks who owned our house previously put in a Rinnai propane tankless water heater. Must say that it is pretty awesome. With a family of seven, it is nice to never run out of hot water, and yet still save money. Take care, Brad
Thank you for this video! We are looking to install one in our house this year. Very helpful! btw I can hear you fine and my audio is less than half way up. :)
Thanks for the comment! I'm sure you know this, but if you're planning to use one of these electric models for your house, get one that is bigger than what you think you'll need. The Eco 8 is fine for what we're doing, which is one sink. But I can tell that if more than one sink was going at the same time, you would not get hot water. The house on our property came with a Rinnai gas tankless water heater. It is amazing. We can run two showers at the same time with no discernible difference in hot water output. Glad that you could hear the audio! 😉
Not sure why you had so many issues trying to figure out the wire size. If it requires a 40 amp breaker it requires 8 AWG wire. 30 amp breaker would be 10 AWG wire. Not code and dangerous to run 10 AWG on a 40 amp breaker. Would it work, sure but you would be heating up the wire and also causing a voltage drop. Good that you went with 8 AWG.
I loved my ecoSmart 11 but after 3 years and it is no longer heating. Called tech support and they said it is most likely mineral scales. The digital temperature knobs light up when you turn it so the problem is not electrical. Wish I knew about the Aqua Pure scale inhibitor or that it would come with the unit even if it cost a little more ( I don't have well water) but there are minerals in city water too. I can never go back to a regular water heater but now I have to buy the flow meter (located inside and replace it myself?)
That is a major typo on the box. If do it yourselfer's were to not pay attention to this they could burn the house down. 40 amp double breaker requires #8. If you install #10 the breaker will not trip and the wire will melt and cause a fire. Let an electrician hook it up if you are unsure.
Try LESS layers... the more layers you do the more it can not thread on it. I only use 2 layers... I just replaced 1500' of Pex... (I love Pex)... of corse that's with a clamp... but I do a lot of plumbing tape... LOL
Thank you very much for this video . I have been trying to figure out if i should get an eco smart 8,11,18 and this looks simple enough to install . no video out there has helped on installation as much as this . Also what video cam do you use it is very clean and crisp. thanks again
Please buy a zoom external audio recorder I like your videos but it's hard to hear. I have the h1 and love it. If you can't figure out how to put external audio in post message me and I can walk you through it or do it for you. Please fix you audio and keep the video comming
Luke, thanks for the comment and suggestion. We started making videos mostly for the sake of making an archive of all our projects and upgrades on the homestead. Things sort of grew from there on the channel, and now we realize upgrading recording equipment will eventually be necessary. The sound has always bothered me as well. At the moment everything is being done on an iPhone 6. The challenge is diverting funds from the property to video making equipment. Now if you know of a way to get a wireless mic to synch with an iPhone, I would really like to hear it - of does the zoom recorder do that?
St. Isidore's Farm A Zoom mic might be a tad overkill at this point. It's an external recorder and you'd have to combine the audio and the video when you edit. Right now I'd probably just get some sort of inexpensive directional mic (your voice will be louder and it'll isolate you from the background) that you can plug directly into your phone.
St. Isidore's Farm a h1 zoom mic will do that with a $6 lapel mic so $106 on Amazon for great audio. And if you need help with lining it up audio in edit I volunteer to help with that. You can just use a lapel with a long wire but you lose the mobility. However, a lapel with long wire is $20 on Amazon. Your making great video keep it up.
So your fitting was loose because you left out your brass compresson sleeve/collar.. that fitting was meant to be used with a pipe slid in it WITH the compression sleeve. That loose fitting with tape on it is bad advise to be in someones home... you can easily get a supply line thatsc1/2" that would have fit the unit without trying to adapt. Its identical to water heater nipples, its just 1/2" instead of 3/4"
Indeed, BUT, there is NO documentation saying those are compression fittings. Yes, a plumber would know that, but as these are marketed toward DIY as well, there should be a bit better, more complete instructions. The electrical seemed to be well documented. These should not be harder than regular water heaters to install, but lack of common fitting/connections, lack of detailed instructions, make this a bit of a guessing game for those who are use to METICULOUSLY following instructions.
They probably said no Teflon tape because if it corodes from not using it then they get to sell you another unit instead of it lasting a longer life span sales and all
you have to use the compression ring and not teflon tape =the fitting on the water heater is a compression fitting ,you meat head it req1uires the brass compression ring
I have a single pipeline installation (cold water). Can I use this on the same pipeline and adjust the teperature so I don't have to install extra line for hot water?
Yes, it has a dial to adjust temperature, but it's for warm to hot. You could just turn it off and water would still go through it without being heated.
Jorge, I would not recommend this model for any size home. We are only using it for a single sink and it just delivers enough hot water for that sink. Anything more demand, like a shower, and I doubt it would produce enough hot water. You would want to look at MUCH larger models for a home.
I'm kinda doing the exact same thing. Making a cabin, putting in a claw foot bathtub. Don't need hot water sitting there all the time and was thinking of a tankless water heater. Every vid however makes it look as though I don't wanna mess with'em. How has y'alls worked out this past year??
i installed the same heater about 6 months ago and work very well untill 2weeks ago then it started to swell the inlet going going into the heater. i repaired it by taking out all swollen cpvc inlet lines with new ones then it happen again.im really confuse.
Sorry to hear you're having issues with the inlets. We've not had that problem so I have no real way of offering suggestions on what is going on our how to resolve it. Hopefully, you've figured it out by now - sorry for the delay in reply.
Thats a copper compresion fitting thats why they say no tape. They are talking about you installing copper. Not the brass fitting yiu installed. Also you are to have 2 ft of coper connected to the unit the hose you are using is rubber and should not be used. You should use coper or a flex copper water heater connector. The setup you have will fail and leak
The brass adapters come IN THE BOX, with no documentation for DIYers on what to do except "don't use tape or paste"! No mention of compression fittings. No info on company site. I had the same issue with the adapters 'bottoming out'. So I did the tape thing and fortunately they have held! The instructions recommend the "hoses". I have this installed for 3 years with "hoses", not metal flex lines. No issues.
I suppose the answer to the question depends on your skills as an electrician. I did the wiring for ours, but I also have a lot of experience with wiring and electrical work (not to say that I know as much as an electrician). Suppose it also depends on where you're installing it. New construction or existing building?
So Ecosmart is not the brand to buy. They say one wire size on the box and another size in the installation guide, they say don't use teflon tape or sealer on pipe fitting yet supply a fitting that needs something to take up the slack. I have only watched 8 minutes of your video and am dead set against this companies product. Thank you for a very informative video and helping me to stay away from this company.
It would have been nice if you had showed how to wire up the electrical to the box on the wall.
Saved me and my install. Specification said 1/2 inch connection but something wasn't right whatever I did. Thanks for saving me from striping the connector on the water heater.
Hope it works beater for you than me. We had one that did not work after 94 days, Lows had replace it with a new one. Same thing happen but was in 89 days. After a bit of trouble with Lows we got a full refund. Ended up going with a Rinnai had it working for 2 years now no trouble ! God Bless Brother.
Must admit that we had a concern about that, which is why we bought a three year no question replacement warranty from Amazon for an additional $19. That seems cheap to have a hassle free ability to return. Figure if it makes it to three years, it should last a few more than that. Sorry to hear you had trouble though! Blessings to you as well. Thanks for watching and commenting!
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
Thanks for this. I'm replacing a really old 9kw unit and wanted to upgrade to a higher output model if the wire allowed, but unfortunately it's wired with 8/2 and running 6/2 would add like $380 to the cost of the project....that supplies a single faucet and shower
the compression fitting on the heater has untapered threads, as does the FIP adapter. Using pipe dope or tape isn't an ideal way to create a seal....but often works.
if you look into the adapter, you'll see it has the chamfer that mates to a compression ring, so as odd as it sounds, the "correct" way to attach the adapter is to use a piece of 1/2" copper pipe with the compression ring on it inside the two fittings.
a piece of pipe about 1-1/4" long will do. All the pipe is doing is preventing the compression ring from collapsing. The ring itself provides the seal between the tank fitting and the adapter, and no dope/tape is needed on the threads. Some people put a turn or two of tape on just to minimize the potential for corrosion.
when installed this way, the adapter will be tight with about three threads still showing on the tank fitting.
hello. thank you for this great information. I bought this unit last year and now is leaking on the sides where the pipes are attached. what would u recommend. Thank you
thank you. I had the same issue. The documentation for using the adapter was NONEXISTENT when I installed mine in 2017, and so far, April 2020 this is the ONLY fragment of info I have found.!!! WHY these were ever made with a fitting unlike regular water heaters is baffling... and when you don't know much about FIP, compression, etc, it is overwhelming...
I can't understand what you mean.
Just had an Eco smart 8 electric water heater installed in my 1 bedroom apt. 1 shower 1 bathroom sink 1 kitchen sink. Thus far all is good. Good heat even for shower. Not untouchable hot, but right at the bearable mark, at its full heat output. I wanted a Black + Decker unit that was on a memorial day sale, but they were all sold out. For a small situation like mine its perfect. Not in love with all the plastics used in its interior... but im not too certain that the unit gets hot enough to melt the plastic, as would likely be the case if it were any measures hotter. Ide say its a decent buy. but i would also find out what brands Hotel chains typically use. As some have switched to localized room heating solutions to save in costs. find out what brand their using and youl liking see a product line more competent for quality durability and long term heavy usage.
Very informative about the electrical. I am interested in the shut off valves and clean out procedure.
Thanks for this video, stranger. It was very helpful to me. Go figure, the idea of adding an extra fixture in my shower has led me to reconsider my entire plumbing system lol. Ain't that always the way?
Last time I checked; wiring electricity to the heater was also involved I want a heater like your's one that doesn't involve electricity must be sort of nice
I was reading through the manual on the eco 27 I just purchased and page 5 does specify how many wires/gauge is needed for each unit. Hope that helps
10-gallon, 110V plug-in tank-style water heaters. 1440 watts - 13 amps at 110 volts. $200 and less all over the internet. Install it under the sink, insulate the hell out of the cabinet and turn it down to "vacation" or off when you won't be the shop for a while. Don't want to heat water when you're not using it period? Put the outlet on a switch and flip it on when you get to the shop or put it on a timer to kick on an hour before you plan to be in the shop next. You'll have hot water before you have dirty hands.
The tankless water heater is 8000 watts which is 36+ amps at 220 volts. If it were 110 like the tank style heater it would draw almost 75 amps. 8000 watts is more than most full-size 40-50 gallon tank heaters draw and that think will suck more juice than probably any two-three woodworking machines you've got running simultaneously.
Max flow rate on those heaters is 1.55 gpm and I suppose that is at its max temp increase over inlet, which is what you will actually get no matter what "target" you program in. The "overview" I found online says the product is "configured for" applications with inlet water temps of 67 degrees and above. And the "specified" outlet temp is 105 degrees. With 67 degree inlet water heated all the way to a blistering 105 degrees you can theoretically get 1.44 gallons per minute of flow.
I notice you kind of didn't point the camera at the line during your "performance test" but I'm fairly sure your flow rate is far short of 1.44 gallons per minute and typically "hot" is "defined" as "too warm to keep your hand on or in". 105 degrees is a good temp to set a hot tub to for winter use. Not so much for getting things clean.
I honestly do not get why people who can do electrical wiring can't do basic electrical math and figure out that tankless electric water heaters are a joke. For $25 or less you can go buy a good John Deere engine block heater element, a cheap tin pail and have 2 gallons of actual hot water in minutes and be time and energy ahead of trying to get anything clean with 105-degree water.
Thanks for the time you put into the comment. This tankless water heater is working great for us and we purchased it for $170. We're really happy with it and the endless supply of on demand hot water it produces. Really, we have no complaints with it. Blessings to you and yours!
I concur with your narrative, tank less water heaters are not efficient especially when the average inlet water temp. is 43 degrees or less in the wintertime. A tank heater insulated and on a timer or manually controlled will save money and work much better.
Next time before you turn the power on, run the water on your highest fixture to get all the air out of the system. Prevents any potential damage to the heating coils. Otherwise nicely done! Good on you to put tef tape in the threads. Any thread on thread sealing should have it unless there is a washer like hose type connections.
Thanks for watching and for the helpful tip. Unfortunately, that sink IS the highest outlet on that entire well system.
St. Isidore's Farm of course, i just meant in general for anyone starting up a heating system.
Could this be used in a small cabin? Two sinks, one shower.
Where can I get the 5/8 OD adapter
Great. Thanks for you video.
Just a question: can I do the electrical connections just like a regular plug con the correct wire suggested on the instructions?
Very simple explanation helps a lots to decide change the monster and expensive tank for my apartment.
Thanks again.
Did you do the electrical hook-up yourself? How about showing that?
Hey! It’s David Wallace from The Office!
Thnx for the infos! I thought about buying one from Amazon too.
Great video
ok commercial plumber here.
Iin future when wrapping tape around thread, do not put in on the first thread of male adapter, so when you put female adapter on, tape will not be cut off and deposited into system.
Cem Aydin Thanks for the top!
Thanks for the video help me out a lot
How've you been liking it? Have you noticed a difference on your electric bill vs the standard water heater?
savings will be minimal, you shouldnt buy a tankless to save
JonTheChron well it was given to me. Lol. If I save $15/mo in electricity, it’s still $10
Also I live by myself in my house and have free electricity from 9pm-9am so that’s my angle here
Great Video... You have no idea how much I appreciate
this video... but I have a few questions...
1) Did you have to put any Barrier between the Plywood Wall
and the tankless water heater??? I would think it would get too
hot for the wall...
2) I want to put this in a small vintage travel trailer and all I have
is 110/120 ... is that enough electricity to run this equipment?
Or does it need 220?
Thank you so much for sharing this video.
I just purchased a Rheem 56 amp heater. Says it can flow 4 gpm. But the only ones that support 110v are the very small remote heaters that are designed to be used per application IE a single sink faucet. Any service panel that I know of is a 240v service so I feel that you have it and don't know you do
@@anewzack78
Good to know...
Thank you for your reply
Great stuff! I have considered installing these in the house before. Not sure if I will ever get to it...but i have been considering it. Thank you! - Mike
Thanks, Mike! The folks who owned our house previously put in a Rinnai propane tankless water heater. Must say that it is pretty awesome. With a family of seven, it is nice to never run out of hot water, and yet still save money. Take care, Brad
Thanks Dude💪🏽💪🏽👍🏼
Thank you for this video! We are looking to install one in our house this year. Very helpful! btw I can hear you fine and my audio is less than half way up. :)
Thanks for the comment! I'm sure you know this, but if you're planning to use one of these electric models for your house, get one that is bigger than what you think you'll need. The Eco 8 is fine for what we're doing, which is one sink. But I can tell that if more than one sink was going at the same time, you would not get hot water. The house on our property came with a Rinnai gas tankless water heater. It is amazing. We can run two showers at the same time with no discernible difference in hot water output. Glad that you could hear the audio! 😉
Yes, thank you! we are getting a bigger propane tankless.
Mrs Soap Peddler's Homestead of
If it’s drawing 37A, you want 8AWG.
Not sure why you had so many issues trying to figure out the wire size. If it requires a 40 amp breaker it requires 8 AWG wire. 30 amp breaker would be 10 AWG wire. Not code and dangerous to run 10 AWG on a 40 amp breaker. Would it work, sure but you would be heating up the wire and also causing a voltage drop. Good that you went with 8 AWG.
I loved my ecoSmart 11 but after 3 years and it is no longer heating. Called tech support and they said it is most likely mineral scales. The digital temperature knobs light up when you turn it so the problem is not electrical. Wish I knew about the Aqua Pure scale inhibitor or that it would come with the unit even if it cost a little more ( I don't have well water) but there are minerals in city water too. I can never go back to a regular water heater but now I have to buy the flow meter (located inside and replace it myself?)
likely the heating elements are 'scaled up' as well. Those will need to be cleaned. There are many TH-cam videos about cleaning tankless heaters.
The 5/8 to 1/2 adapters have gaskets under the blue and red covers.
That is a major typo on the box. If do it yourselfer's were to not pay attention to this they could burn the house down. 40 amp double breaker requires #8. If you install #10 the breaker will not trip and the wire will melt and cause a fire. Let an electrician hook it up if you are unsure.
OMG how many layers of plumbing tape did you use? I used 4 and still getting a drip.
Good question, but we've not had a drip. Hope you got yours to stop!
Try LESS layers... the more layers you do the more it can not thread on it.
I only use 2 layers... I just replaced 1500' of Pex... (I love Pex)... of corse that's
with a clamp... but I do a lot of plumbing tape... LOL
Thank you very much for this video . I have been trying to figure out if i should get an eco smart 8,11,18 and this looks simple enough to install .
no video out there has helped on installation as much as this . Also what video cam do you use it is very clean and crisp. thanks again
You're welcome - we're glad it was helpful. Just an iPhone.
Please buy a zoom external audio recorder I like your videos but it's hard to hear. I have the h1 and love it. If you can't figure out how to put external audio in post message me and I can walk you through it or do it for you. Please fix you audio and keep the video comming
Luke, thanks for the comment and suggestion. We started making videos mostly for the sake of making an archive of all our projects and upgrades on the homestead. Things sort of grew from there on the channel, and now we realize upgrading recording equipment will eventually be necessary. The sound has always bothered me as well. At the moment everything is being done on an iPhone 6. The challenge is diverting funds from the property to video making equipment. Now if you know of a way to get a wireless mic to synch with an iPhone, I would really like to hear it - of does the zoom recorder do that?
St. Isidore's Farm A Zoom mic might be a tad overkill at this point. It's an external recorder and you'd have to combine the audio and the video when you edit. Right now I'd probably just get some sort of inexpensive directional mic (your voice will be louder and it'll isolate you from the background) that you can plug directly into your phone.
St. Isidore's Farm a h1 zoom mic will do that with a $6 lapel mic so $106 on Amazon for great audio. And if you need help with lining it up audio in edit I volunteer to help with that. You can just use a lapel with a long wire but you lose the mobility. However, a lapel with long wire is $20 on Amazon. Your making great video keep it up.
So your fitting was loose because you left out your brass compresson sleeve/collar.. that fitting was meant to be used with a pipe slid in it WITH the compression sleeve. That loose fitting with tape on it is bad advise to be in someones home... you can easily get a supply line thatsc1/2" that would have fit the unit without trying to adapt. Its identical to water heater nipples, its just 1/2" instead of 3/4"
Indeed, BUT, there is NO documentation saying those are compression fittings. Yes, a plumber would know that, but as these are marketed toward DIY as well, there should be a bit better, more complete instructions. The electrical seemed to be well documented. These should not be harder than regular water heaters to install, but lack of common fitting/connections, lack of detailed instructions, make this a bit of a guessing game for those who are use to METICULOUSLY following instructions.
They probably said no Teflon tape because if it corodes from not using it then they get to sell you another unit instead of it lasting a longer life span sales and all
Soooo smol! Only need one for the entire house or floor?
Vixinaful No, this heater is really only enough for one sink, or MAYBE a shower in warm climates.
Nice install. What were the vertical copper pieces at the water valves around 11:00 mark? Some sort of cushion to prevent water hammer?
I'm glad that you noted their advertised specs. The inlet temp. they listed of 67 degrees was nice to know.
you have to use the compression ring and not teflon tape =the fitting on the water heater is a compression fitting ,you meat head it req1uires the brass compression ring
I have a single pipeline installation (cold water). Can I use this on the same pipeline and adjust the teperature so I don't have to install extra line for hot water?
Interesting question. I suppose you could, if you wanted to only have warm/hot water, and sacrifice ever having cold water.
St. Isidore's Farm but it has a dial right? So you can lower the temperature if you want cold water (I think).
Yes, it has a dial to adjust temperature, but it's for warm to hot. You could just turn it off and water would still go through it without being heated.
St. Isidore's Farm Do you have a video of the waterflow? (Tank only)
I just want a no hassle plug in 120v tankless hot water heater that isn't complete garbage
Anyone has this installed long enough to see difference with electrical bill?
would have been better to see actual installation
Sorry.
for what size home is this model recommended for?
Jorge, I would not recommend this model for any size home. We are only using it for a single sink and it just delivers enough hot water for that sink. Anything more demand, like a shower, and I doubt it would produce enough hot water. You would want to look at MUCH larger models for a home.
thanks
I'm kinda doing the exact same thing. Making a cabin, putting in a claw foot bathtub. Don't need hot water sitting there all the time and was thinking of a tankless water heater. Every vid however makes it look as though I don't wanna mess with'em. How has y'alls worked out this past year??
We just posted a one year update video: th-cam.com/video/-4jSCXHqup4/w-d-xo.html
40amp service def requires 8awg
Would you say this unit is good for a single shower?
I think it would depend on the inlet water temperature, the flow rate of the shower (GPMs), and how hot you like your showers.
i installed the same heater about 6 months ago and work very well untill 2weeks ago then it started to swell the inlet going going into the heater. i repaired it by taking out all swollen cpvc inlet lines with new ones then it happen again.im really confuse.
Sorry to hear you're having issues with the inlets. We've not had that problem so I have no real way of offering suggestions on what is going on our how to resolve it. Hopefully, you've figured it out by now - sorry for the delay in reply.
Standard water heaters have had the option of a ¾ flex supply and demand (in/out) for at least 2 decades.
Still weird that they chose 5/8 if the norm is 3/4
Thats a copper compresion fitting thats why they say no tape. They are talking about you installing copper. Not the brass fitting yiu installed. Also you are to have 2 ft of coper connected to the unit the hose you are using is rubber and should not be used. You should use coper or a flex copper water heater connector. The setup you have will fail and leak
The brass adapters come IN THE BOX, with no documentation for DIYers on what to do except "don't use tape or paste"! No mention of compression fittings. No info on company site. I had the same issue with the adapters 'bottoming out'. So I did the tape thing and fortunately they have held! The instructions recommend the "hoses". I have this installed for 3 years with "hoses", not metal flex lines. No issues.
"Thumbs UP"
Do I need an electrician to install this tank?
I suppose the answer to the question depends on your skills as an electrician. I did the wiring for ours, but I also have a lot of experience with wiring and electrical work (not to say that I know as much as an electrician). Suppose it also depends on where you're installing it. New construction or existing building?
Yes, if you're installing it somewhere that requires code. If it's in a shed in your back yard, then no.
I think you need to follow what the Manufacturer tells you
does the heating capacity depends on the water power?
Yes. The higher the water flow, the less ability the unit has to heat the water.
So Ecosmart is not the brand to buy. They say one wire size on the box and another size in the installation guide, they say don't use teflon tape or sealer on pipe fitting yet supply a fitting that needs something to take up the slack. I have only watched 8 minutes of your video and am dead set against this companies product. Thank you for a very informative video and helping me to stay away from this company.
Steve Blauvelt Glad it helped. It’s still working great for us.
you skipped the wiring.
Fabor en español
No one simple
He wastes time so much
?
please more demo and less talking.
Can this suppy more than one sink? Less than 6ft apart