Upgrading my robot - Clank
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 มี.ค. 2024
- Small details make a big difference! These few upgrades will make it so much easier to take Clank to conventions
After wanting him since 2002, playing Ratchet and Clank: Rift Apart made me want my own Clank backpack. So I made one. This is an additional part of my journey into making my first animatronic.
My 3d print files not currently available. Although he may look finished, I am still improving his files. Please be patient as I truck through this process.
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So when is the Heli-Pack upgrade vid
Might I suggest a removable goatee, attached via magnets so he can double as Klunck
What I did once with a slipping connection joint was adding a left turning nut up against the slipping mechanical connection. And tighten them both at the same time and if dienst go anywhere. It’s the same they do in industrial connections that shouldn’t come loose.
Here's a tip I was given: a blob of nail polish can help convince a screw to stay put long enough to get through the day. Easier to find than Loctite when you're in a bind, and non-permanent.
That's a great idea, but where is she supposed to get nail polish from.... oh, wait
Or Locktie, made for this purpose.
@@gryzmanOnly read the first 11 words? ;-)
@@R.Daneel I mean, how hard is it to get an actual Loctite?
She gave Clank "a MUCH bigger piece of hardware"... Oh *my*...
Just wanted to say I just saw your clank building videos and I’ve been hooked. I really respect the extra work you put into this. Very good work!
the half framerate eyes go really well with the servo jitter. he looks like he's animated on the 2s, really cool effect
Blue loctite on those set screws is pretty much a necessity to stop them from backing out. Even with the larger size you have there.
a power switch was a good idea. pulling the thing out a lot will eventually break it.
6:40 This is why "The Pen is Blue" is such an iconic scene. Our brains do not function well with intentionally broken logic
In terms of the omnidirectional join, if you want to be really sure it doesn't fail again, drill a little dent (or file) in a place where the grab screw will be and use blue loctite to secure the grab screw in place.
That will hold basically forever.
I’ve run into the same issue with polarity being different on my batteries and the device they plug into. You can usually use an exacto knife or small flathead screwdriver to pop the metal pins out of the sockets and then swap them to match. Way better than risking fires and fried electronics.
Ever since watching the 1st video I've been wanting to build my own Clank, so much so I have been shopping around and pricing the materials, downloading and learning python, and saving my money to buy the material you used in this video to make my own. I have so many friends who are encouraging me to build my own clank, thank you for being the starting point and inspiration to make me wanna try to make my own
upgrade suggestions:
Metalic based paint to Electroplate, increases part strength (does increase weight)
Movement sensors in the body to have clank react to people around him.
Webserver hosted on the pi (promotional / about the project, or the possibility to update clank via wifi [git server], remote reboot, etc)
Usb recharge port & battery management system to make recharging clank easier.
Your vid just popped up on my recommendations , neat Clank setup, looks like the real thing! When I saw you solder the two wires together I immediately thought 'solder seal connectors', they are simple heatshrink with solder inside them, you just slip in the bare cables and apply heat, it's a game changer if you don't have them yet 😊
You just motivated me to upgrade my animatronic Alfred Packer skeleton for Halloween.
This was such a cool series of videos! I've always wanted to see someone make a real Clank robot. I'm excited to see what you do next!
I built a wall-e robot to take to comicons, the first con it broke down constantly it didn't make it past the first day
, I replaced and beefed the broken parts , second con he made it through but it was easy to identify what needed improvement
Rinse and repeat, today he's quite robust but I am still modifying and improving it as I see what can be better.
Simply Amazing!
Awesome project, first video earned my subscription. I hope you do more animatronics in the future!
Lovely quality upgrades. The switches fix some very big potential failure points. Glad Clank will see more convention floors. ❤
R&C has been my favorite game franchise since I was a kid, back on the good old PS2 still to this day R&C 1,2,3 are my most favorite games ever. I love you Clank you did such a good job, and the eye animations really help bring the little guy to life.
When i run into those color mismatches I pull the pins out from the non standard one and swap them. Because in a couple of years when I need to mess with it again I might forget. or if I hand it off to someone else they won't have a clue.
A lot of Chinese companies seem to have difficulty understanding or respecting the red/black color code standards. My hobby is 3D printing and I've had to replace fans and it's a tossup whether the new fan will have the colors assigned to the correct polarity. This wouldn't be so bad if the fan simply didn't spin when reversed but some of the circuit boards on the fans will get hot and fry when connected backwards. And not all of them mark the polarity on those boards.
As a result I used Noctua fans when possible (they are Austrian) but they have been asleep at the switch with regards to building 24 volt fans so you use something else or you can put in a buck-buck board to lower the voltage but sometimes the fan doesn't respond properly to PWM control after that.
Excellent job on Clank!
i love this little series!... i want you to make more things lol
I did the exact same thing. But I purchased battery holders that had the wrong labels on the metal connectors. I was holding the battery holder when it happened. The darn thing started to glow white. I had to throw them on the ground.
It was crazy.
Your Clank looks crazy cool.
Ill note, I almost got caught with the same colour battery issue, company's batteries were swapped from the ends I got, ended up using a sharp point to remove the wires from their connector port and swapping them to the other side
Make him talk! Random quotes or by remote.
“Orange & Gray is the New Red & Black”. :D. I love it. But seriously, I’m very glad to hear that the “unauthorized thermal event” didn’t do any more damage than it did. Sometimes you can remove the crimped pins from the connector housing and put them back in the “correct” sequence, i.e., matching your preferred color coordination pattern. Keep up the good work! You’ve got an amazing prop that does some extraordinary things.
At least the battery wasn't in Clank at the time, and you weren't hurt!
As others have said; loctite the threaded bolts and set-screws. Loctite comes in many flavors; Red & Green are no-no's, Blue and White are your friends. Blue on the bolt threads and the white on the set-screws. Secondly, for any electrical circuit with a removable battery you should add a diode to prevent reversing the polarity. When I build my PCBs, I place a cheap Bridge Rectifier on the power input after the disconnect switch. A bridge will allow you to attach the battery in any direction as it will 'rectify' the polarity. Attach the battery leads (after the disconnect switch) to the two AC inputs of the bridge and the Plus and Minus will always be Plus and Minus. You will loose 1.2 vdc due to the forward bias of 0.6 vdc of the diodes; if this is a big deal you can add a 7805 or a 7812 DC regulator and a larger battery (see the spec sheet). Another suggestion would be a fuse or two to protect the lil guy. Cool project!
I had no idea I could add a diode that could rectify polarity, thanks for the tips
@@SundaySlaysCosplay A Bridge Rectifier is an array of 4 diodes that are normally used to convert AC to DC. Even adding a single diode to your system will protect the project from accidentally connecting the battery backwards. If I can be of further assistance feel free to reach out; I am a 30 year EET and CS. thanks for the reply.
I'd recommend getting some LocTite. It's a very liquid glue for screw threads. I tried using it on the same size of universal joints, and LocTite was actually a bit too liquid and wanted to gum them up, but after working them for a bit to free up the joint, I haven't had an issue with the joints coming off my screws.
You've done such a great job, are you planning on continuing to iterate? Face tracking so he's looking at people when he's talking to them maybe?
I really love how you show the process to us. The good and the bad
On the all tread rod that’s for his neck where you connect the U-Joint you can always grind a flat spot so the set screw has a flat surface to work better and you can always use a dab of blue loc-tite
Great problem solving, excellent upgrades!
Crank is cool nice job, your really good ,beautiful
I have found with anything that needs usb power that you might need to plug in and out a lot, its is real handy to use the magnetic usb cables. :) I have them on my headphones, VR headset, mobile, tablet, my arcade build, etc :) and pop a dab of nail polish on the tread of the grub screw to help hold it into place :)
A drop of locktite on the grub screw should help it from comming undone. Would also suggest getting a safeshutdown setup for turning your pi on and off multiple times in a day.
@2:00 feel your pain. I always try to design for disassembly after a few tough projects.
great surprise to find another clank video in my feed. I feared I had seen the last of the little guy.
alternate source for u-joints is RC car spares.
you might also want a smoke stopper. basically a polyfuse for prototyping.
Make sure that the grub screw has a flat end and not a concave shape as the flat end will hold better. Would be worth grinding an area flat where the grub screw touches too.
Incredible work
Excellent job. For clarification purposes, that component is not an "omnidirectional screw" it is called a universal joint. Just in case anyone wanted to look for one. It's just a universal joint.
beautiful work! I've been watching this build from the beginning, loved every step. thanks for the vids !
It looks like the upgraded servos have stood up to real world usage now!
Yeah, certain companies love to swap the "polarity" on their batteries by doing this shit, all it takes is one exciting puff to get real intimate into paying attention to this inconsistency. Can generally release and reset the pins on the given battery if you're using a mixed set of batteries or a variety of hardware sources. Honestly I don't really get why one company in particular does this, but It's the only gripe I have with them so, I just make sure to check. Good job on the repairs/upgrades!
Fantastic build. I love the videos you have shared on this project. Thank you
Awesome build BTW, the ratchet and clank series has been a favourite of mine for a while now.
Fantastic videos to see
Seeing the bootup screen in the eye is strangely fitting it seems :D Great work!
Love him, he looks so good.
Very nice!
Thanks to your inspiration, I'm sitting here looking at a half-size Clank 3D print on my desk as I watch your vid.
great mods to Clank!
they call her "the surgeon"
I had the same problem with my multi directional axle at my first con as well.I got mine from McMasters and I had to tap the screws through the axle and into the neck rod to resolve my issue. Currently I am also upgrading my Spider-cat to reduce the weight and to make him more life-like.
Really nice work! I have tinkered with electronics, computers and 3D printers for years but I've never delved into robotics. I'm very impressed with your results! Don't worry, most of my time is fixing my mistakes, too.
who here appriciates an awesome heatshrink job?
i do hope that you put his arms on,
glad you didnt fry the robot 😊
Amazing!
So cool!!!
Awesome!
this is very very cool
No, it was not your fault! No one checks to see that a battery's red wire is actually positive and the black wire is actually negative. These are standards and it was obviously the battery manufacturer's fault. And it could have had much worse results, even a potentially deadly fire! I once pointed out that same problem on a site which purported to give the 'correct' connections on an XT60 connector. If that page was used as a wiring guide, when a high-amperage battery got connected it would have been a real problem. (I once had a friend who connected wires wrong on a car battery, and when they began to smoke he, in a quick reaction, tried to pull them apart by pulling on the wires; he was badly burned. So glad you did not try that!)
There is code to make a safe power on/off for a rpi switch. I put one into a device that was for a twitch streamer and it was a while back but it was pretty easy, just a soft push switch for on and the same button for off.
Yeah that universal joint won't seat properly unless you have a nice flat spot.
You could use a jam nut instead.
Golly gee what a joyfully boy
I don't mean to seem rude if you grind flat spot into those threads grub screw will work better. A little bit of Loctite on the threads would help
thats so cool
you should integrate some sort of ai that can respond to questions using clank's voice
just need to connect him to google home or some thing so you can ask questions and have him answer
An engineer ! Cool. :O)
This is so fantastic. I wouldn't know where to start with the mechanics and electrics. He's brilliant. I'm just wondering though, if you'd considered using circular displays for the eyes, or are the available sizes completely wrong?
Couldn’t find monitors that were the appropriate size
he is so beautiful, I tried to build my own clank several times but always failed.
Just imagine clank not compacted, aka a standing version
You should make daxter from jak and daxter and make it so he can stand on your shoulder lol
Will you ever release the model so we can print build one of these maybe an instructional step by step to we can all print and build our own clank ? He’s one of my favorite robot
Make sure you have full backups of the uSD in the rPi because it WILL FAIL during normal use, especially without shutting down the Pi from a console etc. I'm speaking from years of experience using Pis in products :-)
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I did this with pre brought connectors for my led mask I was building and my feather prop board started smoking 😬
Why not get a double pole switch and switch them bot on at once? lol And have Version 2 also talk? ;-)
Sometimes I only want his eyes on, so didn’t want to tie everything together. And yes I’m researching sound
are you for any chance going to make kit
Just needs the hand panels to wiggle and some voice lines synced up
Starting at about 04:42 in this video:
*_"Measure ONCE, Cut TWICE."_*
*_"Measure TWICE, Cut ONCE."_*
{BEEN THAT, DONE THERE...😉}
Not gonna lie seeing clank in a dead like state kinda traumatising
Are you gonna make rivets arm next😂
I really wanna see some ChatGPT integration....
why not wire some external buttons under a foot or something? surely that would be easier to access rather than taking off the front every time.
Dang bro got that robotic gagadigadogadago iv been married a long time ago but the sad Napoleon version in the start 😔
Voice next?
Next is to get it so he talks.
More focus on the work, less focus on your face. Your voice is really enough to explain what you're doing.