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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ย. 2020
- Got a prusa mini - • I got a Prusa Mini+ | ...
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Here i got a third 3D Printer (Prusa Mk3s by Fysetc). It is kit to be build, it took few days as i printed the plastic parts in my other 3d printers which took a lot of time, a good way to get busy during these pandemic times .
Having a 3d printer, to make parts for projects
is now easier. i will
be learning to design and use more of 3d printing in my future projects .
This is the link to Prusa Mk3s by Fysetc
a.aliexpress.com/_mOE7SJ5
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Looks like you missed the hole for all the extruder cables, also didnt see the spacers under the bed? I have one myself, had problems with the bearings within 100 hours of printing. Strongly suggest everyone to regrease bearings and swap heatbreak for all metal.
What actual differences does it have from the Prusa kit apart from the book and support, how good is the assembly manual?
@@AndrewAHayes follow prusas online documentation for assembly. Lower quality bearings, heatbreak, m3 square nuts. Replace bearing and heatbreak and drop of oil on extruder bearing then you wont notice a difference. Get the thinner/higher quality m3 square nuts and you will have a morepleasant time building.
@@niklashogblom1880 Thanks Nik!
What values in "belt calibrate"?
Cool bro
Thanks
Nice 👍👍👍
Thanks
Nice video:)
Thanks
So are the orange parts not included in the kit? You have to print them yourself? What material do they need to be--is PLA ok?
Petg is recommended but pla is fine. I used pla filament. No issues
@@MakerMan The fan shroud should be printed from higher temp resistant material. Even PET-G deforms after some time. It´s actually the only part Prusa still prints from ABS in their farm. I have good results using ExtrudR Greentech Pro for this.
So without the orange parts the printer will not work? I do need to print them on a second functional printer?
Yes
where can i get part files? what to print
Did this include the einsy rambo board?
Yes
after some month of test and prints. how is it the clone? is ist like the original or is it so bad that you will recomandent the original?
Its same as the original. As it use the same original software and settings.
The only components I would be skeptical of are the smooth rods, the nozzle, the steppers, maybe the power supply, maybe the lead screws, maybe the extruder gears. The whole extruder assembly (minus the nozzle and extruder gears) is likely exactly the same since it's dead simple and mostly printed, and since the genuine V6 is way overpriced as it is. The extrusions probably don't matter a whole lot as long as the ends are flush.
But yeah, the Prusa i3 is a stupidly simple design, and its tolerances aren't crazy precise. At the end of the day, it costs probably under $500 for parts and the remainder of the high price tag is paying for QA, customer support, warranty, etc. So there's no real reason the Chinese clone would be much worse.
@@Joe_Yacketori steppers (even the ones with integrated leadscrew) are quite fine, also no problems with smooth rods and the extruder gears.
The bearings have not always acceptable quality, best to use iko or other good brand instead (and lubricate it).
A must to change: Heatbreak. Prusa has all-metal, fysetc has Teflon tubed. Argh. As Firmware allows 285°C and PTFE start deforming at 260° (and worse: degrading releasing toxid Funes about 275°) thats a No-Go. Use a bi-metal heatbreak (slice engenering or clone from trianglelabs if not using MMU2, else e3d Prusa edition (you can get it from 3djake)).
Nozzle is a "consumable".
Most important in my opinion: textured spring steel. Fysetc is a bit less fine textured, ideal with big prints, energetic 3d Shop nearly exact the same texture as original Prusa, trianglelabs a bit finer. I use all three textures, depending on the object.
One minus for the Clone: It is a mk3s, not mk3s+. At the moment no super Pinda available. But I got some already (and it is an improvement esp. with textured sheets).
5:48 The cables should go through the hole in the back plate, not around it. Also, don't zip-tie the cables directly to the cable holder. Thread the sheath around first, then zip-tie around the sheath.
Yes
Does it have a noctua fan?
No, but you can buy one for very cheap
That's right
Hi, How similar is this to the original Prusa? what are the parts that aren't the same?
It's 1:1 clone to the original prusa mk3s. Even updated to the latest firmware.
@@MakerMan No, it is not 1:1. Heatbreak is 4.1 bore, tube contacts the nozzle. Original heatbreak is full-metal. So firmware allows 285°C. Which will degrade the inserted tube in the clone and release toxic fumes. Never ever use the clone without changing the heatbreak or changing the firmware. Fysetc should never have put a 4.1 bore heatbreak in the kit. Simply a no-go. Of course, changing it is quite simple. But no TH-camr seams to be aware of the risk and give a warning.
@@oleurgast730 where do i buy the original heatbreak to change the one on the clone?
@Mark Rodriguez I got my Bondtech Heatbreak for Prusa Mini from 3djake.de I do no think the direkt link to the German Dependance would help you... But 3djake is quite international, you might have a shop in your country...
@@atastycloud The original e3d PE heatbreak is available directly from Prusa and from 3djake.
For the mk3s clone: Original heatbreak needed for MMU2(s) to form the tip - or if you use presets for filaments in Prusa Slicer.
If you tune in your settings yourself anyway, something like the Bi-Metal heatbreak from SliceEngeneering (or a clone from Trianglelab) is better.
Sorry, my first answer I swapped with the Prusa Mini Clone, as I build one in parallel. As it might be of interest for those who do the same:
On a Mini clone: No sense in using the original Prusa heatbreak. Printing objects with many retractions (esp. printing PLA with slow extrusion f.e. 0.1mm layerhight) often results in clogging. Reason: to much heat goes up to the point the tube connects to the full metal part. Molten filament stucks there...
The Bondtech Heatbreak for Prusa Mini was developed exactly to avoid such problems. I had the problems with my original Prusa Mini and changed to the Bondtech Heatbreak. Problems solved.
So no good idea to use the original heatbreak. Exept of course If you get one for free from someone who upgraded his original Mini to a Bondtech Heatbreak. I use my original Mini heatbreak in my 3th Clone - only to solve the health risk until next time 3djake gives 10% discount (black friday?). Than it will be put again in one of my spare parts boxes, collecting dust...
I got mine a week ago. Delivery was really fast. But imho, you dont save that much. The plastic parts take a long time to print. And the cables are mostly insulated with cheap plastic. Especially the ones going to the headbed. Really brittle and stiff. I replaced most of the cables, because i fear my house could be burned down by shorting cables because of broken cable insulations. Would not recommend.
PLEASE: Replace these cables if you buy this printer. It is a real fire hazard, if you ask me.
5:55 You're doing the cable management wrong.
It doesn't matter that much.
But thanks for pointing out.
@@MakerMan It affects the durability of the printer. For example 6:09 The lower belt is rubbing against the PINDA cable and it will eventually be worn out and misbehaving.
Ok
I can do what I want. Facebook, Aliexpress, Homepage, Forum of Fysetc.... I don´t get any response regarding to my order!!! I ordered from Spain (will be shipped from Spain) and actually it should be shipped out normally (Chinese holidays). NOTHING AT ALL! No answers, no response, no nothing!
Seems like a complete waste of time to buy one of these clones. All you'll get is a crappy imitation of the real thing. If you want the real thing, then buy it, otherwise there are reputable brands from China (Creality, Elegoo, Biqu etc.) that will do a very good printer for the same price as one of these knockoffs.
Dunno about that. They print to the same quality for less money
It is more about reliability, tolerances, quality control and safety - thermal runaway protection etc. I'm not doubting that knock off kits will result in a 3d printer that works but given how much they cost, you'd be better off just buying the real thing, or a reputable printer at a lesser price point.
@@NorthCamZ th-cam.com/video/tNtWpN-rPtU/w-d-xo.html