Prusa i3 Full Bear Upgrade Kit - Part 1 - Frame
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- I've been nominated for "Community Advocate" at this year's 3D Printing Industry Awards, if you wish to vote, you can do so here (section 6): geni.us/3DPIAwards
Bear Upgrade Kit: geni.us/BearUpgrade
Designer of the Bear Upgrade: / gregoiresaunier
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You are forgetting the maker's mantra: "Repair it until it doesn't work". X-D
Cool man, thanks for sharing. Love the colour so far. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Cheers!
Looks nice. Looking forward to the rest of the series. One thing to add, IMO, always use a square, even if the parts are machines.
I did the Bear build and the Bear Extruder upgrade a few years back. Love it. Started as a plan to upgrade my mk2.5 but ended up making it a mk3. The Bear extruder upgrade requires its own firmware for calibration and then flash the latest Prusa firmware. Easy build. Your TH-cam has many good points emphasized when doing build.
Thanks for sharing, I've been hoping you would do a video on this! :)
For anyone doing this or any other 3d printer build, I highly recommend screwdriver style hex drivers.
I love my Bear, made a huge difference to the noise my 2.5 made.
Those red extrusions look so nice that will turn out to be an awesome printer
Been totally thinking about doing this with my MK2.
I just finished my bear build a few weeks ago and I wish I had this to watch before doing it. The instructions for the build are great, but something about watching someone else build it and talk through it seems just as helpful to me. I can't wait for part 2.
what is the bear kit exactly?
@@zambiagrowl3632 the bear kit is a frame upgrade for the prusa mk3 printer.
I am glad to hear yours is doing well, mine has given me issues since the start. layers shifts to nozzle jams.. ended up replacing the noctura fan and the Prusa specific parts of the hotend ...
That color is awesome!
I used a 90 degree square tool as recommend from the bear author. Took me three evenings - like 6 hours or so - to get the frame really perpendicular
wowww, it is really beautiful 3d printer, i will make this one now, i bought all part of this
I use a small marble table that is very flat - it is very handy to have something that is ground flat.
Cool... I don't own a Prusa but could imagine that the extruded aluminum will be much more rigid than the stamped frames. I purchased 3 Anet A8's a couple years ago for the electronics etc and built them as AM8's. They print really well and the frames are rock solid. I use them for client prints. I am planning to upgrade them to linear rails. It would be great if Prusa added linear rails to this design. Coupled with his innovative software they would be amazing....
Cheers,
Greg
Greg, they are not stamped frames. They are cut aluminum sheet.
@@halsaresnowpaw522 Didn't know that thanks. It's better than stamped for sure but not as rigid as extruded aluminum. Sort of an in-between... Cheers!
awesome brother
im exicited
I’ve got two mk2 that have performed flawlessly since first assembled....wish I could say the same about many of my friends.....and their clones:-)
Like, your friends and their clones, or your friend's printers and printer clones? Lol ;)
Got my orange profile ordered, can’t wait to start making it!! How’s the Malta mural coming on Jo??
Nice!! one suggestion - use a Speed/Rafter Square to set the frame alignments. My Old Max Micron printer is very similar frame setup. Couple small squeeze clamps and the rafter square makes it WAY faster and easier getting everything perfect and square. Thing looks sweet, LDO is doing a nice job on those Extrusion colors!
@Heiko Scheuermann SimRacing Be careful with measuring the diagonals. You will have measurement error on all distances. I recommend a DIN875 square.
@Heiko Scheuermann SimRacing Ah yes for a safety check it is a good idea. Sorry I did not understand that ;-)
Interesting, this gives me some ideas for when my printer arrives...I have access to a machine shop so I can make my own kit! I'll open source it...though it's probably not going to be easy or cost-effective for most people to make unless they have a CNC and waterjet cutter lol
Having a bag of spare drop-in t-nuts is always handy.
Plot twist: you can print em
Lately I have seen many Bear upgrade kit videos and yours by far is the best...looking forward to next parts :) ....thanks
Thank you :)
thx
congrats on making your prusa look like my geetech.
Must be a special kind of geetech to be just a red frame :)
Actually we have someone that switch its geeetech to the bear frame and he is very happy :-D
"I put a ruby nozzle on it". Pressed stop. Tuned into Chris's basement
Thanks for the video.
The new frame looks sturdy! Do you know if the two Z drivers will be controlled by two separate drivers? Thanks
No it is same as Prusa, no modification on the electronic or firmware required. However, several people have used Duet board on the Bear frame with success.
Was looking forward to this. One question do you think it's more or less difficult to setup the bear frame or a MK2? Also have you considered putting a bunny extruder on this printer?
I am not the best person to answer this :-D but at least it is easier to measure thanks to the extrusions.
So I am thinking about upgrading my MK3S. I haven't seen kits for that. I would keep my Bondtech BMG-M Mosquito extruder I think. So what kit/parts are needed?
Did I catch that comment at 4:17 correctly? You printed the Polymaker PolyMax PC parts on the Raise3d Pro 2? Pity if so as I'm looking to personalize my i3 mk3 and almost £4000 is a bit outside my price bracket just to print some hard-wearing parts.
best guide ever, will you do zaribo upgrade (320,420, 520 etc ) ?
Yes, I should have a zaribo 320 kit coming in and will live stream the assembly
On T-nuts ...I never saw anyone do it that way - i.e. put the nut in first, then put the screw in. I usually put the screw in the part, thread on the t-nut a bit, then align the nuts in the right direction, then put it on the rail...BUT, YES, t-nuts are notorious for just being bad (maybe 1 out of about 30-40).
OK- See that you did that later in the video....So, why (if there is a reason) did you do it the other way to start with....BUT KUDO's for all you do...
How to crealitify your i3!!
I know it's too late for you personally but maybe some of your viewers will find it helpful; a quality roofers/joiners square and 90 degree corner clamps make the assembly and alignment of this frame go much quicker and more accurately. Not everyone just has those lying around but they are worth borrowing if you can.
This is a good a recommendation. In the preflight check of the assembly guide I recommend a DIN875 (any grade) square. Also this video is helpful to test and fix a square: th-cam.com/video/FNpAQHrNpNU/w-d-xo.html
Kind of cornfusing, had to listen to to the first part four times "insert two tee nuts into both sides, like so, " then you insert what looks like maybe 6 tee nuts inserted very quickly?...finally figured it out after a few tries. I used a tee square and a piece of ground marble wall tile to get the base perfectly square.
Did you print the Polycarbonate parts on your Prusa machine? I'm wondering if I could use the same.
Sorry for asking because you may have said it sometime, but what colour exactly is that blue of the other prusa? That tone is absolutely gorgeous! 🤤
It’s metallic blue PETg by Herz :)
Is it me or is your lighting different? I've bee cranking the brightness down and stuff and ....I dunno...this video seems lit differently!
Hey Joe! How it is going with the Inkspire? I am curious if you will upload a review soon :)
It’s going extremely well, review should be up in a week or two :)
@@3DMakerNoob Great to hear! Looking forward, and thanks for the fast reply :)
How do you have so few issues with your moving wires on your Prusas? I run two of them and both have as of now gotten breaks in their heated bed thermistor cables at some point in their lives where the temperature reading is lost at some point on the y axis. I've also had a part fan cable fail.
I've not had any cable issues yet either... fingers crossed.
just a heads up aluminum extrusion z will never be as rigid as that solid sheet they have. Fasteners will always loosen over time, and the frame is not solid so it will inevitably have some give. For the z you only need to worry about force going from left to right which is why the sheet of aluminum does so well.
Luke Fenske actually you’re wrong
@@jakefromstatefarm8545
Well I've been an engineer at a professional level for 3 years, with a masters in mechanical, and a minor in physics, in addition to almost 6 years of FDM building experience (as a hobbyist) so I would say there is a good to fair chance I'm not.
@@lukefenske3039 Version one was reusing the Z plate, actually it was a MK3 before the MK3. The plate was still too flexible so I made the full bear. Some guys made 500mm and did not feel the need to add brackets to it. It is much stronger. However, you still have the flex coming from the smooth rods and plastic parts.
@@gregoiresaunier2622 Refuse to except being wrong or don't. I couldn't care less.
You know what would be an idea for a video? Compare if and how popular Chinese manufacturers improve their printers over time and how well their user and community feedback is taken into practical account.
Measure Diagonally to check square it is much more accurate that to test as well with rail
When's the next part coming out? My upgrade will be here Friday and I have most of the parts printed. :)
I will be uploading the x axis assembly and bear extruder in a day or two and by the end of the week the rest of the build :)
@@3DMakerNoob Looking forward to it.
can I use this upgrade for the MK3S?
Anyone know who sells the PolyMax PC in the US? Every place I have checked on the Polymaker site is either a job shop or don't list it. Only found one place, Plug-n-Play 3D, that has it in stock, but only in white.
EDIT: Never mind. Found that Amazon carries it.
I'm stuck at the 10:15 part where he says the base shouldn't wobble. Mine is square, I even used a square to confirm it per Chris Warkocki's build-a-bear video but I still have a slight wobble of maybe 1mm on one set of corners. It's not the workbench either -- if I rotate the frame 90 degrees the same two corners wobble. Not sure how to proceed, and would appreciate any tips.
Ian Douglas it is impossible that your table is flat, your frame is square, and it wobbles. Pick two.
What kind of Thanos snap was that!? Haha. After hearing how realiable the Prusa printers are I think I found my option for my first 3D Printer. Also, that color is just beautiful! Great work, can't wait for the other videos
can i use only plastic parts from x idlers for z bearings from bear upgrade kit? Or it doesn't work with original frame from prusa i3 mk3s?
hi, thanks a lot for the video. A quick question please as I am new to such stuff. At 03:02 you mentioned something like "Polymaker PC max and I use the magico PC for this". I heard the "Polymaker PC max" but not the next part - it sounded something like "magico" or something like that. Could you please give me the names or the links of those? Cheers.
Magigoo, it’s a specialized bed adhesive for many technical filaments
@@3DMakerNoob Thanks for clearing my doubt. It's probably this I guess; Magigoo PC - The 3D printing adhesive for Polycarbonate (SKU: 5350583999945)
How do you do your overhead shots?
Cool video, nice looks, nice job. But looks like a side grade at best IMO. Cheers
Just curious, and maybe I missed it, but what’s the benefit of this upgrade? Is it just style? It does look really nice. I didn’t know if there’s other benefits.
If you’re doing the MK3 upgrade, then not butch benefit other than style to be honest. If you use a Mk2.5 for the upgrade though, you have a much more sturdy frame and better print quality :)
@@3DMakerNoob thanks. Been hooked on your PRUSA vids. Thanks again for the quick answer.
which way around did you place those T nuts
Looks nice but I very much doubt it is going to improve the quality of your prints as long as the MK3 is set up properly, If I had a MK3 the only upgrade that would tempt me is an extra 100mm on the Z
Hence why I said it’s not really an upgrade to me just a customization :)
How would you add 100mm to the Z without replacing the frame, just as he is doing? The extruder would need to pass through the top of the frame to go any higher then stock.
If I were buying an upgrade I wouldn't expect to have to design it as well
I hate to be kinda irrelevant but where did you get that RAD looking chair? OMG! dude it's cool!
Hi how are you, I installed the marlin 1.1.9, but I get an error, the screen does not work the knob, I am using a 2004A screen. Another problem is in pronterface I move the axes, and they don't work, they get stuck, locked sometimes they move.
I have 2 types of screen and in the 2 the same thing happens to me.
2004A LCD screen
2004 LCD screen
They come in Kit with RAMPS 1.4.
Note: the MK3 y-motor mounts opposite
if you use the MK3s for hobby stuff, does it worth it to upgrade it to a Bear frame?
Honestly, no. As I mentioned the mk3 is perfectly fine as it is, it’s a great machine and very reliable. To me this is more of a customization. But I have seen people who swear by improvement in quality due to the upgrade
@@3DMakerNoob many thanks :) much appreciated
0:03 wow either the prusa i3 is really light or you're REALLY strong. I can barely lift my anycubic i3 mega
its 14 lbs... you can lift it with one finger lol
I didnt quite catch the name of the filament you used for the Prusa Parts, what was it?
Polycarbonate :) Polymax PC
@@3DMakerNoob cheers! will check it out!!
Any tips for printing on Prusa Mk3s?
Is this to increase print size?
Not officially supported but some pushed it to 500mm without feeling the need for extra brackets. For now it is too much work for me to support a custom firmware. It might sounds simple but it comes with responsibilities. I would need to run regression and functionality tests to ensure everything is good and that my customers have no chance to burn their house. Prusa is probably one of the most tested firmware for printer lower than 1000$ and they have lots of security features.
This seems really nice but damn the assembly... seems like you could potentially have a ton of issues with so many joints and keeping everything aligned..Almost seems like you'd be introducing a ton of issues with printing.
I don't get it, why is better to replace perfect solid one piece frame with aluminum v-slots joined by some plates. To me it is more like downgrade.
Upgrade? Are you sure?
That’s what The name is, so that’s what I use :)
Hehehe
"I'm not considering this an upgrade"
_looks at title_
The easier way is to look for Zaribo ;-) The best upgrade Prusa on the Market ;-)
I will be getting a zaribo as I met the owners in Sweden. however zaribo in itself is not an upgrade but a full on 3D printer based on the Prusa
@@3DMakerNoob i know, i have a bunch of them ;-)
That's too funny you want from a prusa to a creality frame!??
Nope, from a mk3 frame to a full openbuilds frame. Mk3 frame is already partly openbuilds
It was a joke since I've gotten to the 3D printing a lot of people compare prusa to the creality and when I saw the frame I just thought it was funny the similarities between the open build and the creality frame
@@mathewphillips4185:-D ! Also Creality use through holes assembly with gives you no chance to square perfectly your frame. Extrusions are never perfectly flat, they are made from melted aluminum so they can twist, wrap and bend, just like our printed parts. This is why openbuilds (and so my frame) use thick aluminum joining plates.
Dude fix your tutorial because i needed to rebuild again from scratch because of missings screws that should been putted early
I followed the provided instructions, mine went on fine together
If it's not broke, don't fix it!
Is there a Bear kit for the MK3S yet?
Yes there is, but still in kind of beta phase
@@3DMakerNoob nice. Have link so can follow it?
@@Rmilyard Keep an eye on Greg's dev branch on his GitHub. Also, you can use the stock X axis and MK3S extruder on the Bear frame until Greg officially publishes his Bear MK3S extruder. Keep in mind that you cannot use the Bear X axis unless you use the Bear extruder or the BMG extruder. You can use the stock Prusa X axis and extruder on the bear frame. I felt the need to reiterate that because it's a little confusing.
Here's a link to the GitHub: github.com/gregsaun
@@border056 I have never seen an specific extruder for the bear frame. as far as I know the bear frame change does not impact on the original extruder and it can be used with out problem. Am I right? many thanks
Nestor Pomar hey, here’s a link to the Bear X axis and Bear extruder: github.com/gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis
$134.99 is pretty overpriced. you can get those aluminum profiles for 40$ if sourced locally
Christoph H it also comes with all try the hardware. Price it all locally like o have and you're very close to $130. The more you know. ;)
@@Mr3DPrintWizard Dude i built a 500mmx500mm cube 3d Printer with those profiles just recently for 70$ + 40$ in hardware (nuts, bolts and so on) thats 110$ ...
Christoph H dude not the same hardware and not the same quality. So no you're not getting a full bear with equal quality parts and finish for $40 or $60. I know you think you are but I've priced the exact same hardware from.reputable sources. $110-120 or so every time.
@@Mr3DPrintWizard Then please tell me the quality difference between those 2040 extrusions and the ones i got from e.g. motedis.uk i really wanan know
Christoph H for one LDO the makers of the extrusion have one of of the best rating for being perfectly cut. If the extrusion is off by 0.01mm here and there or more you'll loose parallelism quickly. Most if not all places I've ever tried ordering from only offers a +- 0.2mm cut rating. When I ask for more accuracy good luck. They also anodize after cutting for a far cleaner finish. The kits include black anodized t nuts for a cleaner finish which I've never found elsewhere. Btw you're also talking to the person who got them to make custom colors which again you won't find most anywhere. These extrusions are far better than those you find elsewhere in machining alone for a reason.
"Ten in total, the fastest mk3 build to date." Sorry pal, your video was the quickest I switched off to date.
Ha well not to toot my own horn but the only printers that i trust are the ones I build
And that is none... ;(
ohh yeah also trust prusa
All 3dmakers don't have a contact button on their site nor does the messenger button work...
I reported that to them, they will look into it. You can contact me if you need, I can talk to them.
Get a camera, or even a recently released cell phone.
So it's a Cr-10S Pro Mini now.
Exactly! If the CR-10S pro mini was a mk3 of course hehe
Probably not first?
Hi, why would you go for a frame who needs to be assembled, instead of a single piece one. The Z is always a pain, thas is probably why J.Prusa made it in a single piece. Just can't see the point of this video.
The point is that I like the colour and that this kit is very popular, so I am doing a tutorial on how to assemble it
@@3DMakerNoob Fair enough. I didn't want to be rude btw, the only thing that gave me a lot of issues with my printers was the z frame. This said I really appreciate your videos and so do the entire community, my favourite is the bltouch setup.
Don’t worry brother, no offence taken. Sorry if it came across harsh :) and thank you
Would probably been cheaper to buy an ender 3. The prusa is a good machine but it has some flaws, one is the z top screws not having bearings and rely on an unsupported end. Why leave an unsupported thing that can bend your motor when you can fix it easily os probably an economy thing in the making. Same goes for the z nuts in plastic instead of a bronze standard one.
"I Don't do things when they aren't broken" (paraphrased)
*Commences to tear down a working printer for unrequired extra rigidity*
I’m not doing it for extra rigidity, as I said it works fine as is. I’m doing it for the sake of doing a tutorial and because it’s gonna look awesome 😁
it is not only about rigidity, it makes the printer more reliable, easier to maintain, more accurate, PSU is not used as a square so you can just move it out an enclosure, etc. And it looks nice :-)
It's too bad they use 2040, I thought that stuff was for shelves and enclousures…. not printer frames held together with brackets instead of bolting directly together...what a shame this kit is so popular
And yet 90% of 3D printers are held together the same exact way
Extrusions are never perfectly flat because of the way they are made. It is melted aluminum, so like our 3D prints it can wrap, twist and shrink. Tolerances are quite high for extrusions, including from brand like Misumi (they even don't give tolerance on angle of the cut). This is why Openbuilds (and so my frame) are using thick joining plates, it allows you to align everything perfectly. The problem with the brackets or through hole mounts is that you cannot compensate for those inaccuracies.
Same problem with linear rails, tolerances of linear rails are much lower than the extrusion, so you might have trouble if you assemble linear rails on aluminum extrusions. It will probably work fine for most people but tolerances are tolerances and you can't ignore them...
Ok, this is getting ridiculous now. What's the story about the mural? I spent 20 bucks to ship parts i took time to print and box and take to post office and a year later still nothing? Really uncool joe.
I’m sorry that you feel that way, the mural is still coming. While I cant explain my life’s mishaps on comments know that there are very valid reasons. But it’s coming, that’s a promise
They are junk and Prusa is an awful company
You sure made your case.