I would love to see a video on full length sizing new brass and possibly a comparison I've never thought of sizing new brass just figured it was right from the factory but now you have me wondering
For those interested in saving a few bucks… If you are annealing after every firing it is also perfectly acceptable to FL size the case with a quality inexpensive FL sizing die with the expander ball removed… then set the ID with an expander mandrel. Yes, a regular FL sizing die will work the brass more… but annealed brass is very workable and this process will yield a slightly higher hardness but will definitely not be “over worked”. The key is sameness from case to case and the most critical step in achieving that is fully annealing each case equally after every firing, then working each case equally via sizing and expanding. Cheers!
What I find funny and would love an explanation why I'm missing this. How do I make a full round correctly to measure in the first place ???? Because surely if you haven't used the dies yet because you don't know your bushing size so please explain this for me
@@red7rikkiGoogle how to select bushing size for the neck tension you want, videos are everywhere. The standard method is to measure your outside neck diameter with seated bullet, then subtract for the amount of neck tension you want and order that size bushjng. Or if you don’t have a loaded round, measure the neck wall thickness with a ball micrometer, double it, and add it to the bullet diameter, then order a bushing .001 or .002” or whatever smaller. Since you haven’t ordered the bushjng die yet, this second process is how you would know what size bushjng to order with your die. I think most guys will order a couple different sizes of bushings to give themselves some flexibility. The only reason I would use a bushing now is to minimize working the case neck too much as the FL sizer takes it way down, but since I anneal each time now I don’t really care. Now I just FL size and set the shoulder back .002”, then use a mandrel to set the ID of the neck and I’m done. I was going to order the base APW mandrel set from Pieter that is an incredible deal at only $105 for TWELVE mandrels and a die body on a really nice stand, but said what the hell and spent twice as much and got the gold TiNi set, which is a beautiful piece of kit. Even with shipping from Cape Town it’s more than a fair price for what you get, and is far cheaper than buying individual mandrels and a die body from 21st Century or Sinclair. I have 21st Century mandrels for tighter than .002” neck tension, and they’re excellent, but not as good a deal when all is said and done if you’re just looking for .001” and .002” under mandrels. Like I said, Google and you’ll find info everywhere, you just need to put in the time to research it. 👍
Nothing to do with this actual video but wanted to say thank you. Been watching your videos for 5+ years and you through shooting have pushed me. I got a better job opened my own company so I could have nicer things to shoot and now I've signed up for PRS match. Thanks for the shove
Been using a bushing die for years on my 260 but found I was getting ringing on the bullet even with the VLD seating stem. I was using a bushing 2 thousandth smaller but decided to use a .263 expander with better results. 👍
I'm making a F-class/BR rifle, I ordered a classic, handmade laminated wood, single shot, 3 inch wide flat bottom, stock. It's beautiful and I can't wait to finish this project. I'm waiting on my receiver and then it gets put together with proper bedding job... Can't wait to shoot it at 1000 yards.
I'm thinking about getting in to reloading but from what I've seen/read you don't need to full length resize every time-especially with brass that's been fire formed to your rifle. Is that correct? Also, for someone just getting started would a turret press be better. Seems like you could "set and forget" and possibly eliminate error caused by having to remove and set each die every time.
Great overview, thanks. Other people are measuring the case thickness with a ball micrometer and subtracting twice that amount from the OD to get their tension calculations, but not sure why, this is much simpler. I’ve been FL sizing (after annealing) then using a .002” expander mandrel to set that neck tension, which is harder on the brass but has been working well. So if I want to start using a bushing die to minimize the FL working of the neck, AND I still want the .002” neck tension, then that looks like if I had a .293” OD as in this case, I would use a .289” bushing first? Then that .002” mandrel would give me a final .291” OD?(?) I’m 99% there, so someone please confirm my math here if you would, I’d really appreciate it, thanks.
HI man really like your channel and respect all your knowledge do you have any videos regarding different bullets and ther effect at distance? like cheap soft point to high quality bullets ?
Have you quantified the spring back you get after forming. I was under the assumption that .001 of movement would be negated by metal spring. Not having tested it, i don't know, and I can't argue with your results.
Hello Pete, thank you for some fine videos and good explanations. If you are using the .291 bushing, would you pick the .263 mandrel to expand the neck 1/1000, or would you measure the projectile and use this meassure as baseline?
Thanks Piet. I was a little confused about the 1 and 2 thousandths neck tension when the Redding bushing directions say 1 thousandths. Thanks for expanding on the mandrel usage, Pardon the pun. Excellent video.
First time i reloading. Mistake 1 i bought the expensive redding neck sizing kit and not the full length kit. Mistake 2 i tryed to neck size witout the bushing because i did not know about them hehe.
Appreciate this one. I've got a few cases now fire formed and my next project on the new bolt action is starting the reloading! I have probably too many different bushings, but wanted to make sure I had it all covered. This will help me in the next few weeks. And yes, a video about sizing new brass would be great. Got a box of Lapua brass that I was thinking I should go ahead and full length size the same way as the fire formed brass so everything is consistent, but I'd like to hear your process on that as well. And just saw, you are already over 150k!!! Congrats dude, big milestone again. I remember 100k not so long ago. Keep it up and I'll be here watching!!
Piet love the vids, I hope the channel gets recognised for the quality of the production and the effort you put in to the video's LET'S MAKE HIS CHANNEL BLOW UP!
Pete. I have watched a few videos out there describing how to use bushings. This video almost immediately gave way to the simplicity of it. Have been following you since before you came and shot in the US, way back. Thoughts on the amp annealer. If one can afford it then one shouldn't be too concerned about the costs associated with bushings, etc.. It's our hobby, sometimes hobbies incur expense. When was the last time someone saw penny candy? In the early sixties for me.
I never understood why people don't use expander mandrels more. The inside of the case mouth is ultimately going to cause the most variance for neck tension so being able to precisely control that makes the most sense to me personally.
Running pin gauges ultimately tells you whether neck tension is consistent and to spec and that your brass/annealing and sizing routine is of a “gold standard”. The best way to learn to load for precision is to load fast moving .17 calibres, my 17’s have a lot more work in them than my 6.5’s and 300’s.
I would enjoy a video where you start with Brand New brass to a full, loaded round step-by-step
I would love to see a video on full length sizing new brass and possibly a comparison I've never thought of sizing new brass just figured it was right from the factory but now you have me wondering
For those interested in saving a few bucks… If you are annealing after every firing it is also perfectly acceptable to FL size the case with a quality inexpensive FL sizing die with the expander ball removed… then set the ID with an expander mandrel. Yes, a regular FL sizing die will work the brass more… but annealed brass is very workable and this process will yield a slightly higher hardness but will definitely not be “over worked”. The key is sameness from case to case and the most critical step in achieving that is fully annealing each case equally after every firing, then working each case equally via sizing and expanding.
Cheers!
This is what I have been doing, annealing, FL sizing, then using a .002” expander turning mandrel.
What I find funny and would love an explanation why I'm missing this.
How do I make a full round correctly to measure in the first place ????
Because surely if you haven't used the dies yet because you don't know your bushing size so please explain this for me
@@red7rikkiGoogle how to select bushing size for the neck tension you want, videos are everywhere. The standard method is to measure your outside neck diameter with seated bullet, then subtract for the amount of neck tension you want and order that size bushjng. Or if you don’t have a loaded round, measure the neck wall thickness with a ball micrometer, double it, and add it to the bullet diameter, then order a bushing .001 or .002” or whatever smaller. Since you haven’t ordered the bushjng die yet, this second process is how you would know what size bushjng to order with your die. I think most guys will order a couple different sizes of bushings to give themselves some flexibility.
The only reason I would use a bushing now is to minimize working the case neck too much as the FL sizer takes it way down, but since I anneal each time now I don’t really care. Now I just FL size and set the shoulder back .002”, then use a mandrel to set the ID of the neck and I’m done.
I was going to order the base APW mandrel set from Pieter that is an incredible deal at only $105 for TWELVE mandrels and a die body on a really nice stand, but said what the hell and spent twice as much and got the gold TiNi set, which is a beautiful piece of kit. Even with shipping from Cape Town it’s more than a fair price for what you get, and is far cheaper than buying individual mandrels and a die body from 21st Century or Sinclair.
I have 21st Century mandrels for tighter than .002” neck tension, and they’re excellent, but not as good a deal when all is said and done if you’re just looking for .001” and .002” under mandrels.
Like I said, Google and you’ll find info everywhere, you just need to put in the time to research it. 👍
Nothing to do with this actual video but wanted to say thank you. Been watching your videos for 5+ years and you through shooting have pushed me. I got a better job opened my own company so I could have nicer things to shoot and now I've signed up for PRS match. Thanks for the shove
Wow!! Congratulations sir! 🎯
Been using a bushing die for years on my 260 but found I was getting ringing on the bullet even with the VLD seating stem. I was using a bushing 2 thousandth smaller but decided to use a .263 expander with better results. 👍
I'm making a F-class/BR rifle, I ordered a classic, handmade laminated wood, single shot, 3 inch wide flat bottom, stock. It's beautiful and I can't wait to finish this project. I'm waiting on my receiver and then it gets put together with proper bedding job... Can't wait to shoot it at 1000 yards.
Hi Piete, great video! How do you account for spring back?
Excellent video! Keep up the good work!
wow! Perfect Time! I was just trying to figure this our last night. Thank you for the (always) great information!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video Piet!
Well done. Thank you
I'm thinking about getting in to reloading but from what I've seen/read you don't need to full length resize every time-especially with brass that's been fire formed to your rifle.
Is that correct?
Also, for someone just getting started would a turret press be better. Seems like you could "set and forget" and possibly eliminate error caused by having to remove and set each die every time.
How do you select the correct bushing if you have just bought your first cases/powder/primer/bullet and want to put them together?
Also I've never has the zero lock rings come loose on my zero press
Great overview, thanks. Other people are measuring the case thickness with a ball micrometer and subtracting twice that amount from the OD to get their tension calculations, but not sure why, this is much simpler.
I’ve been FL sizing (after annealing) then using a .002” expander mandrel to set that neck tension, which is harder on the brass but has been working well.
So if I want to start using a bushing die to minimize the FL working of the neck, AND I still want the .002” neck tension, then that looks like if I had a .293” OD as in this case, I would use a .289” bushing first? Then that .002” mandrel would give me a final .291” OD?(?)
I’m 99% there, so someone please confirm my math here if you would, I’d really appreciate it, thanks.
HI man really like your channel and respect all your knowledge do you have any videos regarding different bullets and ther effect at distance? like cheap soft point to high quality bullets ?
I would really enjoy if you would update your reloading training models please😊
Working on it!
I think the best thing you could do for brass is create a false shoulder for fireforming intially..
How do you change those measurements to mm?
What is the best way to clean your brass without a tumbler?
Piet, well gedaa!
Have you quantified the spring back you get after forming. I was under the assumption that .001 of movement would be negated by metal spring. Not having tested it, i don't know, and I can't argue with your results.
Piet, how would the MDT stock compare to the GRS? Are there obviously differences with them?
Can you measure a factory loaded round if you’re going to be using that brass to reload or do you need to measure a reloaded round ?
Hello Pete, thank you for some fine videos and good explanations. If you are using the .291 bushing, would you pick the .263 mandrel to expand the neck 1/1000, or would you measure the projectile and use this meassure as baseline?
Pleasure Sir, Id go .263 yes
So if I don’t want to go the extra step with the expander mandrel I should choose a 0.001 bushidhing?
Ok never mind watched the rest of video where he says that
*
*Promo SM* 😢
Thanks Piet. I was a little confused about the 1 and 2 thousandths neck tension when the Redding bushing directions say 1 thousandths. Thanks for expanding on the mandrel usage, Pardon the pun. Excellent video.
First time i reloading. Mistake 1 i bought the expensive redding neck sizing kit and not the full length kit. Mistake 2 i tryed to neck size witout the bushing because i did not know about them hehe.
Thanks and awesome video - would be great to discuss how you pick different expander mandrel sizes and the mandrel size in relation to the neck size
Appreciate this one. I've got a few cases now fire formed and my next project on the new bolt action is starting the reloading! I have probably too many different bushings, but wanted to make sure I had it all covered. This will help me in the next few weeks. And yes, a video about sizing new brass would be great. Got a box of Lapua brass that I was thinking I should go ahead and full length size the same way as the fire formed brass so everything is consistent, but I'd like to hear your process on that as well.
And just saw, you are already over 150k!!! Congrats dude, big milestone again. I remember 100k not so long ago. Keep it up and I'll be here watching!!
Piet love the vids, I hope the channel gets recognised for the quality of the production and the effort you put in to the video's
LET'S MAKE HIS CHANNEL BLOW UP!
Much appreciated!
Pete. I have watched a few videos out there describing how to use bushings. This video almost immediately gave way to the simplicity of it. Have been following you since before you came and shot in the US, way back. Thoughts on the amp annealer. If one can afford it then one shouldn't be too concerned about the costs associated with bushings, etc.. It's our hobby, sometimes hobbies incur expense. When was the last time someone saw penny candy? In the early sixties for me.
How fo you set up a bushing die for sizing cases
Please help me.
Love that laminated stock!!! Might just be my next prs build!!! 👍
Thank you for sharing your expertise
What soft rifle bag do you use?
Ticket & Popcorn in hand!
I plan to use a non bushing FL die without the inside expander and then run trough the expander mandrel. It should give a good performance, isn't it?
Yeah!
I also use that technique, except after running the case through the mandrel I rotate the case 180 and run the case back through the mandrel.
I never understood why people don't use expander mandrels more. The inside of the case mouth is ultimately going to cause the most variance for neck tension so being able to precisely control that makes the most sense to me personally.
Running pin gauges ultimately tells you whether neck tension is consistent and to spec and that your brass/annealing and sizing routine is of a “gold standard”.
The best way to learn to load for precision is to load fast moving .17 calibres, my 17’s have a lot more work in them than my 6.5’s and 300’s.