The biggest concern is this. When cleaning the draws and transferring the rope through the anchors, the untie the rope from your harness before the rope is through the rings. Leaving you with no redundancy for a moment. There’s no excuse for that. Lack of gear isn’t an excuse. Red flags my man. Sorry but you’re putting out bad information.
@@OffBelay_ true, but 90% of this video is red flags man. Not good, as it comes off as “educational” some people may hurt themselves trying what they see in this video. The fundamentals of cleaning, repelling and even placing carabiners correctly are not displayed, since this seems “educational” in nature. You’re “preferred” ways of cutting corners should not be passed on.
@@OffBelay_ I’m sorry but you really really don’t understand how little you know. As 0780marco says, you don’t normally untie until you have already tied in again. The fact that you don’t even understand this comment is concerning. You are likely to have a serious accident and hurt yourself or someone you know unless you get more expert instruction. Putting technique videos up with so little basic knowledge is dangerous
that is a technique for when you´re getting lowered, not when you´re rappeling. i wouldn´t choose a grigri as a rappel device if i had other options, though. also, the rings seem good enough to be lowered on, so since that´s the safest method, probably the best idea in this scenario. definetly some miscommunication with the belayer and all that but overall acceptable, i suppose.
@@davidlourenco8478 not acceptable to hang from a single bolt on a cross loaded carabiner, no. Definitely not acceptable to make some people who don’t know better think this might be ok. Don’t endorse dangerous practices.
A couple of tips to make it easier & safer. 1. Communicate everything with your belayer before you leave the ground. 2. The belayer can tie a knot in the rope before you pull it up. That way when you get the knot you know 100% that the other end of the knot will have reached the ground.
@@davidlourenco8478 Take it one step further and attach your GriGri and biner to the know so your not climbing with it. Use a clove hitch so you dont actually need to untie it. I can do a video on it if you like.
The belayer would not (no pun intended) be able to tie a knot from the ground and have it brought up, as there where still quickdraws in the system that needed to be cleaned.
A belay device is generally extended to keep a 3rd-hand (typically a prusik on the brake strand) from contacting the belay device and not engaging if needed. A 3rd-hand is not really needed and not used here since the Grigri is brake-assisted, so what's the purpose of extending the Grigri with the dog-bone?
please don't teach people such things. it's unmethodical...after all, you don't want someone to kill themselves on the basis of this video because of you. there are instructors for learning
Interesting. Why is this better than just tying in and lowering yourself with the GriGri? Also, seems like you could put a prussik near your brake hand to make it a little safer since GriGris aren't guaranteed to catch.
once you weight a grigri it will let go and grigri plus has top rope mode so it will only let you take up slack not let out slack which is perfect for rappel as long as used proper a gri gri will always catch only when someone is using piss poor belay practice will it slip or with a smaller than recommended rope
This lowering method will not slide a loaded strand through the system, reducing wear and tear on the permanent gear. This is a common practice, however sometimes mistakes happen and people get hurt. In some places it's become encouraged to just have your belayer lower their climber like you're describing, reducing the risk of error. The method in the video is just one of a few ways one could possibly lower themselves with a Grigri alone. Fwiw I don't understand why the climber in the video linked the two bolts, if the bolt blows, it blows, all the weight will be on the other bolt whether they're linked or not. It adds complexity for no value. I also agree with another comment that questions a point in time where the climber had their single-strand PAS attached with no redundancy. These bolts look fine, I could see myself trusting them that much, but if I was making an instructional video, I wouldn't want to encourage somebody to trust non-redundant systems without careful consideration.
it´s usually safer to get lowered. however, rappeling reduces wear on the fixed gear so, if done correctly, it´s great to preserve it. i wouldn´t personally rappel with a grigri if there were other options though.
A decent alternative instead of relying on the knot being bulky enough to not go through the rappel ring, your belayer can just lock off the other strand of the rope and you can still rappel off the other line
It doesn't look like it is fully reliant on the knot due to the biner going through the overhand and around the strand on the other side. The biner would have to go through both rings for the system to come undone, which although is not the intended use of a carabine, would likely hold, right?
I very rarely leave comments but, like many other people have said, am very concerned by many of the practices in your videos. I really feel you are getting away with things and you are in danger of your luck running out. You would do well to spend some time with much more experience climbers and absorb better techniques more slowly. Look up the Dunning Krueger effect… you are at the first peak…. I.e a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I find people rarely criticise climbing techniques on TH-cam…. If everyone is doing that it may be for a reason.
@@ZerolinGD almost everything. Wrong approach to start with. Confused ropework. Hanging from single carabiner. Untying from rope.. Etc etc. learn from someone with experience please leaving this video up is dangerous.
I'm new to outdoor lead climbing too and would like to understand the issues you noticed. Would you mind sharing in the spirit of helping new climbers like me please.
@@MrAchile13 @Donald Lee if you want to learn on TH-cam find a channel run by a qualified person. This dude is a clown, maybe 'gumbie' is the correct American term? JBmountainskills for example are excellent
@@MrAchile13 so many mistakes here it would be hard to list. Almost a textbook example of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. This is a car crash of safety or good practice. Many many risks introduced unnecessarily. Note hanging from a single bolt with levered incorrectly loaded carabiner to start with. This person should not be uploading videos of this type… will not survive long carrying on like this.
@@donaldlee6760 go find a different channel dude. This guy doesn't have a clue what he's doing, you don't want to learn anything from here. Check out JBmountainskills for some excellent climbing tutorials from a qualified guide
@@OffBelay_ my two cents, every carabiner is oriented wrong, gates up and facing the wall. They should all be down and facing outward. The Petzel adjust orange carabiner is cross loaded and binding against the wall. The quick draws kind of work by its a sloppy set up. At the very least have locking carabiners on the quick draw to this specific purpose. The orange carabiner close the rope for a single rope rappel is also oriented wrong, gate facing the wall. A double rope ATC rappel is the most common and a much more efficient way of doing this. Not to be rude, but im going to have to second the other guy. This is pretty terrible.
Why in the world rappelling on just one rope, just for the fun of it, when i got two strings, wich increases the withstand and makes it lots safer? And which is the common and educated method! Exactly therefore you have rappelling devices that can take two strings. The gri gri is so wobbly and your handling always concerns me. Just watched your rappelling video where u burnt your hand. Holy moly. Also the crossloaded carabiners here .... man. Why do you keep these videos up if u have so many people asking u to better take them down. I don't understand it... Regards and all the best to you!
I always use gri gri plus for single rope rappel but in 30 years I have never seen anyone use anchor bolts that way it works but man that is very bad practice you should make an anchor with sling or chordage say a sliding x and you are way to straight up in your rappel your feet should be at least level with you stomach you need some more training you are really going to get hurt
Sir you are not meant to be giving climbing instruction when you’re clearly very new to all of this. You are not nearly proficient enough to be putting instructional content out there
4:36 you say always hold the brake and then immediately let go of the brake(?)
for the love of all things bomber i hope no one is learning anything from this video 😳😳
Craaazy!!!!! 😮
The biggest concern is this. When cleaning the draws and transferring the rope through the anchors, the untie the rope from your harness before the rope is through the rings. Leaving you with no redundancy for a moment. There’s no excuse for that. Lack of gear isn’t an excuse. Red flags my man. Sorry but you’re putting out bad information.
I know the method of staying on belay but i am not getting lowered.
@@OffBelay_ true, but 90% of this video is red flags man. Not good, as it comes off as “educational” some people may hurt themselves trying what they see in this video. The fundamentals of cleaning, repelling and even placing carabiners correctly are not displayed, since this seems “educational” in nature. You’re “preferred” ways of cutting corners should not be passed on.
@@OffBelay_ I’m sorry but you really really don’t understand how little you know. As 0780marco says, you don’t normally untie until you have already tied in again. The fact that you don’t even understand this comment is concerning. You are likely to have a serious accident and hurt yourself or someone you know unless you get more expert instruction. Putting technique videos up with so little basic knowledge is dangerous
that is a technique for when you´re getting lowered, not when you´re rappeling. i wouldn´t choose a grigri as a rappel device if i had other options, though. also, the rings seem good enough to be lowered on, so since that´s the safest method, probably the best idea in this scenario. definetly some miscommunication with the belayer and all that but overall acceptable, i suppose.
@@davidlourenco8478 not acceptable to hang from a single bolt on a cross loaded carabiner, no. Definitely not acceptable to make some people who don’t know better think this might be ok. Don’t endorse dangerous practices.
😳 sketch practices my guy.
A couple of tips to make it easier & safer. 1. Communicate everything with your belayer before you leave the ground. 2. The belayer can tie a knot in the rope before you pull it up. That way when you get the knot you know 100% that the other end of the knot will have reached the ground.
that´s actually a good idea, specially when u can´t see the ground (overhanging or whatever). thanks :)
@@davidlourenco8478 Take it one step further and attach your GriGri and biner to the know so your not climbing with it. Use a clove hitch so you dont actually need to untie it. I can do a video on it if you like.
The belayer would not (no pun intended) be able to tie a knot from the ground and have it brought up, as there where still quickdraws in the system that needed to be cleaned.
@@apple11117 correct for the first person. Works for top roping/second person
A belay device is generally extended to keep a 3rd-hand (typically a prusik on the brake strand) from contacting the belay device and not engaging if needed. A 3rd-hand is not really needed and not used here since the Grigri is brake-assisted, so what's the purpose of extending the Grigri with the dog-bone?
Just makes it more comfortable for me.
please don't teach people such things. it's unmethodical...after all, you don't want someone to kill themselves on the basis of this video because of you. there are instructors for learning
what purpose did the quickdraw serve, linking the two rings?
In case one of the bolts fails. It also provides a decent handle if i need to take pressure of belay device, knot, etc.
i had multiple cues that this method was messed up from the very beginning, and I found multiple proof of it as I watched....
Yeah man. It was a lesson alright 😂
Was that overhand for safety only connected to you and the ground?
At what time marker?
@@OffBelay_ other comments bring it up. Your workflow is fucking garbage dude. Glad you’re still alive
Safety as in not dropping the rope when you tie yourself out of the system. It's a common practise and is not intended for personal safety.
Interesting. Why is this better than just tying in and lowering yourself with the GriGri? Also, seems like you could put a prussik near your brake hand to make it a little safer since GriGris aren't guaranteed to catch.
I wouldn’t say that it’s necessarily better but definitely a good skill to know if you gotta rappel a shorter distance.
once you weight a grigri it will let go and grigri plus has top rope mode so it will only let you take up slack not let out slack which is perfect for rappel as long as used proper a gri gri will always catch only when someone is using piss poor belay practice will it slip or with a smaller than recommended rope
This lowering method will not slide a loaded strand through the system, reducing wear and tear on the permanent gear. This is a common practice, however sometimes mistakes happen and people get hurt. In some places it's become encouraged to just have your belayer lower their climber like you're describing, reducing the risk of error. The method in the video is just one of a few ways one could possibly lower themselves with a Grigri alone.
Fwiw I don't understand why the climber in the video linked the two bolts, if the bolt blows, it blows, all the weight will be on the other bolt whether they're linked or not. It adds complexity for no value.
I also agree with another comment that questions a point in time where the climber had their single-strand PAS attached with no redundancy. These bolts look fine, I could see myself trusting them that much, but if I was making an instructional video, I wouldn't want to encourage somebody to trust non-redundant systems without careful consideration.
it´s usually safer to get lowered. however, rappeling reduces wear on the fixed gear so, if done correctly, it´s great to preserve it. i wouldn´t personally rappel with a grigri if there were other options though.
A decent alternative instead of relying on the knot being bulky enough to not go through the rappel ring, your belayer can just lock off the other strand of the rope and you can still rappel off the other line
Once they descend they can tie themselves in and become the counter balance, anchor.
It doesn't look like it is fully reliant on the knot due to the biner going through the overhand and around the strand on the other side. The biner would have to go through both rings for the system to come undone, which although is not the intended use of a carabine, would likely hold, right?
nah bro, you dont want that carabiner in free fall with your rope..
I very rarely leave comments but, like many other people have said, am very concerned by many of the practices in your videos. I really feel you are getting away with things and you are in danger of your luck running out. You would do well to spend some time with much more experience climbers and absorb better techniques more slowly. Look up the Dunning Krueger effect… you are at the first peak…. I.e a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I find people rarely criticise climbing techniques on TH-cam…. If everyone is doing that it may be for a reason.
can you please explain exactly what he did wrong? I'm a new climber so idk
@@ZerolinGD almost everything. Wrong approach to start with. Confused ropework. Hanging from single carabiner. Untying from rope..
Etc etc. learn from someone with experience please leaving this video up is dangerous.
@@tomp5207 the way that single carabina is loaded is freakiest bit, they can break at very low forces loaded at an angle like that
good video if you're looking for what NOT to do... seriously you shoudn't share this kind of mistakes
Could you be more specific about the mistakes in the video? I would like to learn as many perspectives as possible.
I'm new to outdoor lead climbing too and would like to understand the issues you noticed. Would you mind sharing in the spirit of helping new climbers like me please.
@@MrAchile13 @Donald Lee if you want to learn on TH-cam find a channel run by a qualified person. This dude is a clown, maybe 'gumbie' is the correct American term? JBmountainskills for example are excellent
@@MrAchile13 so many mistakes here it would be hard to list. Almost a textbook example of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. This is a car crash of safety or good practice. Many many risks introduced unnecessarily. Note hanging from a single bolt with levered incorrectly loaded carabiner to start with. This person should not be uploading videos of this type… will not survive long carrying on like this.
@@donaldlee6760 go find a different channel dude. This guy doesn't have a clue what he's doing, you don't want to learn anything from here. Check out JBmountainskills for some excellent climbing tutorials from a qualified guide
I was looking your orange carabiner, working in a very bad way 😱. So much mistakes in this video, definitely not a good example !!!
So what would you do?
I just realized you dont know what the orange carabiner is part of. Its the Petzl adjust connect PAS.
@@OffBelay_ yea... and its terribly crossloaded.
@@OffBelay_ my two cents, every carabiner is oriented wrong, gates up and facing the wall. They should all be down and facing outward. The Petzel adjust orange carabiner is cross loaded and binding against the wall. The quick draws kind of work by its a sloppy set up. At the very least have locking carabiners on the quick draw to this specific purpose. The orange carabiner close the rope for a single rope rappel is also oriented wrong, gate facing the wall. A double rope ATC rappel is the most common and a much more efficient way of doing this. Not to be rude, but im going to have to second the other guy. This is pretty terrible.
@@0780marco its not the best but it works in a pinch.
Why in the world rappelling on just one rope, just for the fun of it, when i got two strings, wich increases the withstand and makes it lots safer? And which is the common and educated method! Exactly therefore you have rappelling devices that can take two strings. The gri gri is so wobbly and your handling always concerns me. Just watched your rappelling video where u burnt your hand. Holy moly. Also the crossloaded carabiners here .... man. Why do you keep these videos up if u have so many people asking u to better take them down. I don't understand it... Regards and all the best to you!
It’s not I would tell you to do.
😢 yo bro, you need to watch more videos for a while before you start making them. This wasn't chill
Great video thanks! This was very informative
Thanks man. Just remember to triple check everything. Always practice on the ground.
Sketchy as hell.
I always use gri gri plus for single rope rappel but in 30 years I have never seen anyone use anchor bolts that way it works but man that is very bad practice you should make an anchor with sling or chordage say a sliding x and you are way to straight up in your rappel your feet should be at least level with you stomach you need some more training you are really going to get hurt
There was no need to build an anchor since i was coming down and cleaning the route.
Just very stupid, the whole "system", nobody needs it.
Sir you are not meant to be giving climbing instruction when you’re clearly very new to all of this. You are not nearly proficient enough to be putting instructional content out there