Good day Dave awesome workman ship I'm Ken I have a welding and small end machine shop outside of Edmonton Alberta Canada I would like to build a steam powered system like you ha e running your shop. Do you have the drawings for the boiler and steam engine or who has them. Thank You, keep up the awesome work and I look forward to watching g your up and coming videos take care and God Bless
Watching you install that sleeve brought back some memories! I'm 72 now and when I was about 8 or 9, my grandpa re-sleeved a Farmall Super M tractor. He was one of the very few folks back then that owned a deep freeze. It was a chest type and he put the 4 sleeves in the freezer over night, wrapped them in blankets and carried them to the shop the next morning and they simply fell in! I learned so much from that man and really do miss him.
I love history, I wish I looked at the hit n miss engines, and steam engines with my dad as a kid. If it wouldn't fit on a go-kart, motor cycle, or a car, I wasn't interested. Now I'm very into steam, alternative fuel engines. And would do anything to hang out w it the my dad again. I miss him greatly!
all your equipment in this shop is so clean and not tore up you really got a beautiful shop I worked around a lot of shops like this and they never looked as clean a lot of the times I was doing the cleaning to use the tools and the tools are bulletproof heavy iron great stuff I miss it a lot you really spark up a lot in me thank you for your videos brother
Hi David, this is my first reaction after watching dozens of amazing videos. I'm lost for words to describe how immensly cool your shop is. It' a real privilige to get such a first row seat of your thorough work, skill and knowledge of working with metal. I was educated in machining, welding and engineering, and after a few years of working in metal, I'm now a planner and production engineer. My work consists of 90% sitting behind a computer, and 10% supporting 20 mechanics of and overhauling workshop of Amsterdam's light rail and tram network. There isn't a single day I don't miss my old job of machining and getting my hands dirty. I'm so jeaulous of your little piece of heaven on earth. Keep up the good work!
Bonjour David, It is always a pleasure to watch your videos because even if I do not understand all your English technical words, your pictures are explicit. Like Thomas, I prefer your videos than TV :+) Amicalement, Raphaël
Your stuff just keep getting better and batter, Dave! Folks feel comfortable here. I'm one of them. And I sure like to hear of what happened in other people's lives. Thanks for a way for folks to share and learn.
The people of those days were men of integrity and honesty Dave.Character meant more than money..I knew them Two were my father and grand father.Thanks for this trip down memory lane.and a chance to see fine workmanship again.I still have and use their tools..Many rere a mystery as to their use until I found your channel.By the way Princton is not far from my house in Plymouth Minnesota.Well, maybe next time
Dave, I’m so sorry I didn’t know about your channel years ago, we still have a grain store started in 1888 that had all the machines where run on line shaft power, but no steam only one very large 420 volt motor,,all the over head gear is still in place even to a rope winch used for lifting 180 lbs gain bags onto the stack,, most all the floor level gear has been junked as the shop is only retail now, I will look around and see if there’s any belts, joiners & pulleys,keys etc, still there, freight could be a problem from Australia regards Frank
When I was a kid I would react to horror and thriller movies with some tension, but as time has gone by I seem to have lost sensitivity to them. Got it back with the cylinder liner insertion though - literally holding my breath wondering what would happen; I obviously wouldn't have the grit or spine to do it myself for real - just too worrying. Great video again.
I really like your machine shop with all those leather belt driven machines. I have seen previously in my life where those old belt machines ran so much smoother than the so-called modern chinola machines they sell these days, enabling the operator to do much finer machine work from what I've seen. Wish you guys were close to me, I occasionally have things I need to have made and your shop would be ideal.
Just a note to those commenting on cooling the sleeve versus heating. It really doesn't make any difference either way. The coefficient of 0.0000059 inch/inch/degree F for cast iron is constant whether you're cooling or heating. It comes down to preference at this point. I prefer to heat because that's what I'm set up to do. Great video David !!
You made a comment a ways back about using a micrometer in 1925. I got curious and looked it up. Starrett started selling mics around 1885 give or take a couple of years. ;-)
My heart rate changed some watching that sleeve slide in. My brother had a small engine shop for many years, I sleeved a few blocks for him that were no longer produced. I made quite a few other parts for older pieces too. It was fun cool stuff, just like your videos. I wish I would have known that you were in Princeton, I'm kinda close by in Becker. It would have been fun to meet you. TB
Top job again Dave. Could feel your relief when that sleeve went in. Keep on keeping the old things alive. I'm having some repairs of my own to do.....the old Nuffield broke a piece off the exhaust valve. Quite a long 35 mile trip, had done about 26. Found out since it's the longest trip by far she's done for 20 years or so. Been lucky to salvage the piston, not touched the liner so might? have just escaped this time.
Thats just too neat Mr David. Sometimes wished I was still driving truck over the road, I'd make an excuse to get down your way just to see all your neat shop in person. And to hear that whistle in person would be something to mark off the bucket list
I'll drop whatever I'm doing to watch your newest videos when they come out. Nice work on sleeving that cylinder. Your passion for your work comes through loud and clear. The students on my High School Robotics team are mesmerized by this series. Please carry on! John
In my present job I do a lot of shrink fit. I build electrohydraulic valves for the aerospace industry. I hone and lap for a .0008 fit then place the bodies in a 350 degree oven for expansion. I place the sleeve in a -100 degree freezer to "shrink" a bit. We place the sleeve on a "slam fixture" and use a guide pin for alignment. If you do it right about a half second later you have an assembly. If you do it wrong you have some very expensive scrap. This is for a .750 dia x 6 inch long bore. It is amazing what a little heat and cold can do. Great video and keep them coming.
No pun intended..... The tool is listed as a "#...........slam fixture" . The guide pin is for perfect alignment as you only get one chance at it. If the sleeve seizes before it is located it cannot be removed and the part is scrap. We literally slam the body down on the sleeve. We are only talking a small amount of mass where your part was massive and it gave you time to locate the sleeve before you get into trouble. Love the shop by the way and does it get hot during the summer?
G'day Dave an interesting video, it's great to see how the old blokes would have done it on line shaft machinery. Always fascinating to watch your channel. Kind regards John
When I had my automotive shop I installed sleeves on Internal combustion on a regular basis. Since I couldn't heat up the blocks I would put the sleeve in the freezer then we would drive the sleeve in. Interference fit was approximately .001 per inch of sleeve diameter. Once in a while one would seize, but that was very rare.
G'day David from Australia, thanks for taking the time to do these videos, I am a carpenter by trade but I have a Lathe and Milling machine for hobby work and I find your videos very interesting. Keep up the good work, Alan
Another great video, last year I replaced the tubes in my engine and had to freeze several of them to get them through the tube sheet, helps when you own an abattoir with a big freezer
Wow, clearly one of the better videos you've put out. Of course all videos are good but this time there are so many different jobs you're doing which made it very interesting. And nice to see you're closing to the 20k subscription mark 5 thumbs up, if I could :o)
Hi Dave! Love to watch you here from Sweden and it is allways something new I learn from you. :) I still run my modern engine shop with DRO etc, and I would have a hard time going back to what you doing! :) Looking forward to next episode! Cheers from Sweden! :)
Thomas is not the only one . You got another hooked on your videos over the salty puddle in England . If I spent as much time in my home workshop as watching others in theirs I could get something done .
Dave, this is just like old George taught me how to do this, about 40 years ago. Biggest I ever did was both holes on a John Deere model D. Seems like it was around an 8" bore, but don't quote me on that. We mostly used the often quoted .001" per inch of bore interference, but would often chill the sleeve overnight in the freezer, and warm the block with the steam cleaner. Always seemed to work out well. I could tell a couple war stories about facing off the protruding sleeve, one went flying across the shop. Good thing was, I didn't do it. Never did run a horiz. boring mill, we had a vertical. Fair sized, about a 24 x 60 table or so. Lotsa horses, bore up to 10" or so, and maybe 48" or so under the spindle. Would have loved to stay in the trade, but couldn't feed my family on an automotive machinist's pay. Went to a truck shop, rebuilding engines, and gearboxes, and never looked back. Now retired, I have a home machine shop. Hope to spend many more years in it, life is good. Best wishes, TC
I always align my blocks to bore off of the mains because I find from the factory many of the bores are poorly located to where they belong and sometimes don't even run perpendicular to the crank! In mass production world a lot of times close is good enough but i prefer to get it a bit better if I can. :-)
$152.95 I will take two. I think I was more excited than you when that sleeve went in. you have faith and not you first time. great seeing the old iron saved. thanks
Hi Mark: the owner had the coolest little truck crane that he bought from a National Guard armory. The big engine was hanging in a sling when we got there, but thanks for the offer. ...Dave
I think it could be done OK, I probably wouldn't run the input so fast, so it would just be a matter of using higher gears that I never use as it is now....Dave
When doing such a long cut, do you find your boring tool starts to wear out before reaching the end of the pass? If so, how would you address that and still maintain tolerances in the bore?
Tool geometry,grind the angles differently,it will last longer-downside is finish quality,but you could make 2 tools one for fine cut and other for rough cutting.
Matthew: That is something I think about a lot. 18 inches at that feed and speed is about 20 minutes per cut. It's about the only reason I have to run carbide tooling in my shop. It's not really a problem if you take at least .005" off a side.....Dave
Old shop manuals show using multiple tools on the head, One set up as a rougher and another across from it and slightly behind for the finish cut. I would like to try that, but not on a customers cylinder....Dave
John, As sleeving goes, that was a Very tight fit. A thousandth or two oversize over that much area takes a lot of force to move. Thanks for watching.....Dave
Neat! Since the wrist pin slips into the piston bore and I don't seen a groove for snap rings, I'm guessing the pin is supposed to have an interference fit in the connecting rod?
Whats the running RPM of that engine you sleeved dave? I imagine cross-hatch honing and all that jazz isnt as critical with a slow speed engine? Are the rings free to spin or is the piston pinned to keep them from rotating?
New subscriber. Great topic. On my small engine work, I can usually get away with freezing / heating the separate components in a press fit, so they slip right on. Time is my enemy, not so much temp variance.
Super nice job. @ 450f you will pick up 15 thou inside diameter. The bore at .005 to .010 under would still have been a shrink slam fit. Especially if you chilled the sleeve. You have parts to retain the sleeve and keep it from slipping. I helped my father a number of times with projects like this, yes one project about 6" ID, cast steel liner into aluminum drum, over .030 interference fit. But, not nearly as long as that sleeve you did here. Dropped in like 8 ball in corner pocket. Super enjoyed all your videos, watch a couple recent ones, been watching the whole catalog for last week. I can help you with a handle for the Atlas in Florida. Let me know if you want to get something "interesting" in the mail. ;-)
I've stuck a few cylinders trying to do that and had to bore them out. That much interference fit is just not necessary , puts a lot of stress on everything and in my opinion and just makes trouble for yourself......Dave
Very interesting video again Dave. Just wondering if this job had come in the shop in the 1925 steam era before that boring mill, how would they have done such a repair?
In a boring mill belted to their line shaft. I hope to belt mine up eventually Smaller cylinders like this one were often done on a lathe, bolted to the carriage with cross slide removed and a boring bar chucked in the spindle...Dave
Yes, ofcourse. Had a temporary brain shut down there and started thinking that boring mills only started to come about after that time but it is quite the opposite actually. There is quite an interesting reading on the history of how machine tools evolved in the book "Foundations of mechanical accuracy" by Moore. The boring mill can be considered actually the first machine tool. The first one was built in England by mr. Wilkinson in the late 18th century to improve the cannons of that time. And there is a funny story that that boring mill was the same invention that mr. Watt needed to make his steam engine work, in order to create a bore precise enough for reasonable fit. The story goes that Watt was so impressed by the bore that he described the mill along the lines that such magical precision was something he could have never even dreamed. And that was a wood framed mill driven by a waterwheel. Pretty cool to think that the first proper machine tool was used to create the first proper steam engine and was in its own way one of the corner stones of the industrial revolution.
Circlips? Couldn't see a groove for them in the piston, though. Or - given the loose fit of the gudgeon pin in the piston - maybe the small end of the rod clamps up solid on the pin and that locates it. I still have an MZ250 2-stroke bike cylinder somewhere that I reassembled with no circlips. Oops.
On this engine there is a 3/8" bolt tapped into the piston pin boss that screws tight into a shallow hole in the pin (I drilled it later) then a nut locks the bolt. Crude but effective...if you check it now and then....Dave
actually most engines are clipped in with internal snap rings on sides of piston. Some car engines, not all, have pressed in rods but these are a pain the butt unless you have the heater and press kits.
I use the same technique to installing press in rocker studs in automotive cylinder heads. Put the studs in the freezer over night and use a simple butane torch to heat the boss in the cylinder head.....studs press right in no problem!
Hi Dave speaking from experience why didn't you use liquid nitrogen. Would have saved having to remove the cylinder from the HBM and having to realign it again. Great Vid.
If it were mine I would want more press. Then when the cylinder is in the oven, put the sleeve in your freezer. Gives you more time when dropping the sleeve in. Two stroke cylinders are a "joy" to sleeve because you have to align the ports with only 3-4 seconds of working time. Of course I was working with aluminum cylinders which expand more. I was self taught and never had to bore out a sleeve.
Great video! I may never have to install a cast iron sleeve but it's nice to see how it's done. Who was at the lathe in the very first part of the video (intro)?
Heated up to 475, that's near 400F hotter than ambient. Breeze to -10F and that is less than 100F cooler. Cooler is easier to handle but not as effective. Do both if it is real tight ;)
Of course you are right that with cooling the temperature difference is considerably lower. Whether that is sufficient depends on the overlap of the press fit. If a gas factory is not too far away there is also the option of getting bucket filled with liquid nitrogen and dip the sleeve in it.
I've used liquid nitrogen for years installing brass,bronze,hard steel, and cast iron never had a problem. on a sleeve that did. and thickness you could expect a .015 shrink.
With a steam plant, if you don't have any steam you go outside, pick up some sticks or other combustible material, procure some water, and voila, you have steam and can make things or move things! With an electric setup, if you don't have electricity or a reliable way to produce enough (steam plant anyone?) it doesn't matter how many sticks or buckets of water you throw at it, it still wont run.
Why not both,hooka 60kw 3 phase generator to a steam turbine and you got more than enough power for your workshop ,no belts ,and still you can use sticks and bucket of water .
Hi Dave, how do you determines the clearance required on the bore. Is it a calculation, rule of thumb, or from a reference book like the machinerys handbook. Loved the video as it answered a lot of simple set up questions regard mike
I usually figure .0015" per inch of bore plus .001", some would say that is too tight but it would depend on how hard it gets worked and how hot they get. Most hit & miss engines will run all day with a light load and you can stick your hand in the cooling water. The guys at the shop will probably want to clean up the piston some before assembly so that would give it another thou or two.....Dave
Hi Dave, are you planning on putting the boring mill on the line shaft or is it to much for the steam engine to be able to run it? Love the video keep 'em comein'.
Once while grinding the I.D of a hub with a tolerance of .0001 +/-. It was made of aluminum, not sure of the grade. The shop was not temperature controlled so we had to get permission to grind it oversized because of the ambient temperature was in the 90's. Assembly temperature was 68°. Metal moves more than most realize!
Awesome job,Dave Thanks again from the shop at FLORIDA fLYWHEELERS
is there a video of the completed engine running?
Good day Dave awesome workman ship I'm Ken I have a welding and small end machine shop outside of Edmonton Alberta Canada I would like to build a steam powered system like you ha e running your shop. Do you have the drawings for the boiler and steam engine or who has them. Thank You, keep up the awesome work and I look forward to watching g your up and coming videos take care and God Bless
Watching you install that sleeve brought back some memories! I'm 72 now and when I was about 8 or 9, my grandpa re-sleeved a Farmall Super M tractor. He was one of the very few folks back then that owned a deep freeze. It was a chest type and he put the 4 sleeves in the freezer over night, wrapped them in blankets and carried them to the shop the next morning and they simply fell in! I learned so much from that man and really do miss him.
Learned a lot from mine too....Dave
Why is so entertaining to watch Dave work with this old machinery?
I love history, I wish I looked at the hit n miss engines, and steam engines with my dad as a kid. If it wouldn't fit on a go-kart, motor cycle, or a car, I wasn't interested. Now I'm very into steam, alternative fuel engines. And would do anything to hang out w it the my dad again. I miss him greatly!
all your equipment in this shop is so clean and not tore up you really got a beautiful shop I worked around a lot of shops like this and they never looked as clean a lot of the times I was doing the cleaning to use the tools and the tools are bulletproof heavy iron great stuff I miss it a lot you really spark up a lot in me thank you for your videos brother
Still can't beat the sound of a small engine thump thump thump in the background - perfection :)
Hi David, this is my first reaction after watching dozens of amazing videos. I'm lost for words to describe how immensly cool your shop is. It' a real privilige to get such a first row seat of your thorough work, skill and knowledge of working with metal. I was educated in machining, welding and engineering, and after a few years of working in metal, I'm now a planner and production engineer. My work consists of 90% sitting behind a computer, and 10% supporting 20 mechanics of and overhauling workshop of Amsterdam's light rail and tram network. There isn't a single day I don't miss my old job of machining and getting my hands dirty. I'm so jeaulous of your little piece of heaven on earth. Keep up the good work!
Glad you enjoy it...keep them trains goin....Dave
Bonjour David,
It is always a pleasure to watch your videos because even if I do not understand all your English technical words, your pictures are explicit. Like Thomas, I prefer your videos than TV :+)
Amicalement, Raphaël
Your stuff just keep getting better and batter, Dave! Folks feel comfortable here. I'm one of them. And I sure like to hear of what happened in other people's lives. Thanks for a way for folks to share and learn.
Thanks again Lewie...Dave
MORE than worth the wait, Dave!
Now that's what a machine shop should sound like. It takes me right back when. 😁
Excellent vid, Dave. Good thing you have the boring mill to be able to do things like this. -Regards, Jeff
It's old and worn, but will do pretty good work...Dave
The people of those days were men of integrity and honesty Dave.Character meant more than money..I knew them Two were my father and grand father.Thanks for this trip down memory lane.and a chance to see fine workmanship again.I still have and use their tools..Many rere a mystery as to their use until I found your channel.By the way Princton is not far from my house in Plymouth Minnesota.Well, maybe next time
Dave, I’m so sorry I didn’t know about your channel years ago, we still have a grain store started in 1888 that had all the machines where run on line shaft power, but no steam only one very large 420 volt motor,,all the over head gear is still in place even to a rope winch used for lifting 180 lbs gain bags onto the stack,, most all the floor level gear has been junked as the shop is only retail now, I will look around and see if there’s any belts, joiners & pulleys,keys etc, still there, freight could be a problem from Australia regards Frank
Probably steam originally if there was no water nearby...Dave
When I was a kid I would react to horror and thriller movies with some tension, but as time has gone by I seem to have lost sensitivity to them. Got it back with the cylinder liner insertion though - literally holding my breath wondering what would happen; I obviously wouldn't have the grit or spine to do it myself for real - just too worrying. Great video again.
I really like your machine shop with all those leather belt driven machines. I have seen previously in my life where those old belt machines ran so much smoother than the so-called modern chinola machines they sell these days, enabling the operator to do much finer machine work from what I've seen. Wish you guys were close to me, I occasionally have things I need to have made and your shop would be ideal.
Just a note to those commenting on cooling the sleeve versus heating. It really doesn't make any difference either way. The coefficient of 0.0000059 inch/inch/degree F for cast iron is constant whether you're cooling or heating. It comes down to preference at this point. I prefer to heat because that's what I'm set up to do. Great video David !!
I wish that was my shop, looks more fun when steam driven. Thanks for the videos
Just love the way that you work Dave, Breathing life into yet another piece of history, and good for another 100 years. Regards from Australia.
I can always tell when a man is at home in his shop, when the coffee cup is kept close to the work in progress!!! Aloha Chuck
Fantastic the sleeve went one shot awesome good job
Sometimes you have a good morning....Dave
You made a comment a ways back about using a micrometer in 1925. I got curious and looked it up. Starrett started selling mics around 1885 give or take a couple of years. ;-)
My heart rate changed some watching that sleeve slide in. My brother had a small engine shop for many years, I sleeved a few blocks for him that were no longer produced. I made quite a few other parts for older pieces too. It was fun cool stuff, just like your videos. I wish I would have known that you were in Princeton, I'm kinda close by in Becker. It would have been fun to meet you. TB
The sleeve just sliding in was very satisfying to watch, been there where it doesn't go that way... Nicely done.
Another great video, Dave. I have wondered how sleeving of a cylinder was done and you put me in the know. Thanks.
Top job again Dave. Could feel your relief when that sleeve went in. Keep on keeping the old things alive.
I'm having some repairs of my own to do.....the old Nuffield broke a piece off the exhaust valve. Quite a long 35 mile trip, had done about 26. Found out since it's the longest trip by far she's done for 20 years or so. Been lucky to salvage the piston, not touched the liner so might? have just escaped this time.
You never know Malc, until you look inside....Dave
Thats just too neat Mr David. Sometimes wished I was still driving truck over the road, I'd make an excuse to get down your way just to see all your neat shop in person. And to hear that whistle in person would be something to mark off the bucket list
I'll drop whatever I'm doing to watch your newest videos when they come out. Nice work on sleeving that cylinder. Your passion for your work comes through loud and clear.
The students on my High School Robotics team are mesmerized by this series. Please carry on!
John
John, give your team my regards....Dave
In my present job I do a lot of shrink fit. I build electrohydraulic valves for the aerospace industry. I hone and lap for a .0008 fit then place the bodies in a 350 degree oven for expansion. I place the sleeve in a -100 degree freezer to "shrink" a bit. We place the sleeve on a "slam fixture" and use a guide pin for alignment. If you do it right about a half second later you have an assembly. If you do it wrong you have some very expensive scrap. This is for a .750 dia x 6 inch long bore. It is amazing what a little heat and cold can do. Great video and keep them coming.
Hi Johnny, I like that..."slam fixture"....Dave
No pun intended..... The tool is listed as a "#...........slam fixture" . The guide pin is for perfect alignment as you only get one chance at it. If the sleeve seizes before it is located it cannot be removed and the part is scrap. We literally slam the body down on the sleeve. We are only talking a small amount of mass where your part was massive and it gave you time to locate the sleeve before you get into trouble. Love the shop by the way and does it get hot during the summer?
I always enjoy watching you work. That old machine shop is really great.
Beautiful work Dave. Thanks for the videos.
A first class demonstration of what old machines can do--with some excellent engineering..
A mighty big thumbs up..
G'day Dave an interesting video, it's great to see how the old blokes would have done it on line shaft machinery. Always fascinating to watch your channel. Kind regards John
I pack the sleeve in dry ice, it works great! Necessity is the mother of invention! Great video Dave thanks for sharing your talent. I enjoy watching
When I had my automotive shop I installed sleeves on Internal combustion on a regular basis. Since I couldn't heat up the blocks I would put the sleeve in the freezer then we would drive the sleeve in. Interference fit was approximately .001 per inch of sleeve diameter. Once in a while one would seize, but that was very rare.
Once in awhile is too many for me, I don't fit them that tight anymore. I just don't think it's necessary....Dave
You are a good friend to your steam friends. On would assume you do it for free!
the full views of the shop running are great. clean work always on the money. great videos thanks
Excellent, as always
Great video, really appreciate your talent to make old broke things run again. Keep it up!!!!!
G'day David from Australia, thanks for taking the time to do these videos, I am a carpenter by trade but I have a Lathe and Milling machine for hobby work and I find your videos very interesting. Keep up the good work, Alan
Glad to hear that Alan.....Dave
Another great installment of your shop videos
Great job fitting that cylinder.
Always very enjoyable
Hun
Thank you for this new video David. Always a pleasure to watch !
Excellent work Dave!!!
HI Dave,
Another great video, thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.
you do nice work, always a pleasure watching your videos.
Great video see you at the pageant of steamMike
for sure...Dave
Another great video, last year I replaced the tubes in my engine and had to freeze several of them to get them through the tube sheet, helps when you own an abattoir with a big freezer
That is an absolutely wonderful machine you have there Dave!
Thanks again David for another great video, keep up the good work.
Wow, clearly one of the better videos you've put out. Of course all videos are good but this time there are so many different jobs you're doing which made it very interesting. And nice to see you're closing to the 20k subscription mark
5 thumbs up, if I could :o)
Hi Dave!
Love to watch you here from Sweden and it is allways something new I learn from you. :)
I still run my modern engine shop with DRO etc,
and I would have a hard time going back to what you doing! :)
Looking forward to next episode!
Cheers from Sweden! :)
Dag blast you Dave! I can't get anything done because I'm always watching your videos.
sorry man, but thanks for watching....Dave
David Richards
Just kidding buddy, you guys are fantastic.
Thomas is not the only one . You got another hooked on your videos over the salty puddle in England . If I spent as much time in my home workshop as watching others in theirs I could get something done .
Thumbs up , very nice work.
Fantastic!
Another great video ,Thanks David
Excellent !! Keep up the Great work & videos !!
Great job can't wait for more
very nice job.
Dave, this is just like old George taught me how to do this, about 40 years ago. Biggest I ever did was both holes on a John Deere model D. Seems like it was around an 8" bore, but don't quote me on that. We mostly used the often quoted .001" per inch of bore interference, but would often chill the sleeve overnight in the freezer, and warm the block with the steam cleaner. Always seemed to work out well. I could tell a couple war stories about facing off the protruding sleeve, one went flying across the shop. Good thing was, I didn't do it. Never did run a horiz. boring mill, we had a vertical. Fair sized, about a 24 x 60 table or so. Lotsa horses, bore up to 10" or so, and maybe 48" or so under the spindle. Would have loved to stay in the trade, but couldn't feed my family on an automotive machinist's pay. Went to a truck shop, rebuilding engines, and gearboxes, and never looked back. Now retired, I have a home machine shop. Hope to spend many more years in it, life is good. Best wishes, TC
Thanks for the great comment. These days, a heavy duty engine shop can name their price.....Dave
Very nice job Dave.
Thank you, thank you, thank you I really enjoyed your video I will try to watch every one you have from now onGlenn Schuett Marinette Wisconsin
Hi Glenn, I was in Wisconsin last Friday and Saturday. Stopped at the Ringling Circus Museum in Baraboo. What a great historical place....Dave
Thanks for saving another engine. I bet you will be using it next winter.
I always align my blocks to bore off of the mains because I find from the factory many of the bores are poorly located to where they belong and sometimes don't even run perpendicular to the crank! In mass production world a lot of times close is good enough but i prefer to get it a bit better if I can. :-)
H
Hello Dave,
Excellent as always.
Greetings Henk
Enjoy sound of your steam engine taking on a load. nice sound
You're good at that!
Thank you nice work
$152.95 I will take two. I think I was more excited than you when that sleeve went in. you have faith and not you first time. great seeing the old iron saved. thanks
Dave wish I knew you were coming to Prinston MN about 50 miles from me, I would have went down and helped you load up. Mark
Hi Mark: the owner had the coolest little truck crane that he bought from a National Guard armory. The big engine was hanging in a sling when we got there, but thanks for the offer. ...Dave
Is there anything to keep you from running the boring mill off of the line shaft? If I remember correctly it is just v-belted to a motor. Patrick
I think it could be done OK, I probably wouldn't run the input so fast, so it would just be a matter of using higher gears that I never use as it is now....Dave
Looks like that shaper get about as much use as the lathe does. I could just watch you work for hours.
Any more steam engines in MN/WI that you know about? I am about 45 mins from Princeton.
great video
When doing such a long cut, do you find your boring tool starts to wear out before reaching the end of the pass? If so, how would you address that and still maintain tolerances in the bore?
Tool geometry,grind the angles differently,it will last longer-downside is finish quality,but you could make 2 tools one for fine cut and other for rough cutting.
Matthew: That is something I think about a lot. 18 inches at that feed and speed is about 20 minutes per cut. It's about the only reason I have to run carbide tooling in my shop. It's not really a problem if you take at least .005" off a side.....Dave
Old shop manuals show using multiple tools on the head, One set up as a rougher and another across from it and slightly behind for the finish cut. I would like to try that, but not on a customers cylinder....Dave
Hi Dave are you not gonna put circlips in each end of that pin?
great work!
quality job !
thanks for sharing
Dave, for no tighter fit then you had, what keeps the cylinder sleeve from turning when you are boring it out?
John, As sleeving goes, that was a Very tight fit. A thousandth or two oversize over that much area takes a lot of force to move. Thanks for watching.....Dave
Neat! Since the wrist pin slips into the piston bore and I don't seen a groove for snap rings, I'm guessing the pin is supposed to have an interference fit in the connecting rod?
It has a clamping bolt in the piston Greg.....Dave
Nice!
Dave - Loved this one! Are you coming to the Summer Bash in California next week?
Brad: Thanks, I've got too many things going on here, have fun, will be watching for the details...Dave
Whats the running RPM of that engine you sleeved dave? I imagine cross-hatch honing and all that jazz isnt as critical with a slow speed engine? Are the rings free to spin or is the piston pinned to keep them from rotating?
Hi Max: They will probably run it about 200-250 to run their shaft about 275. The rings are just plain rings 3/8" wide....Dave
That can be deceptive on these engines, it may be a low RPM but the long stoke can still make for some significant piston speeds.
That is a very good point but I'd imagine with higher piston speeds the rings would "hydroplane" on the oil film better.
New subscriber. Great topic. On my small engine work, I can usually get away with freezing / heating the separate components in a press fit, so they slip right on. Time is my enemy, not so much temp variance.
how about freezing the sleeve instead of heating the block?
woot ive been waiting for this
Super nice job. @ 450f you will pick up 15 thou inside diameter. The bore at .005 to .010 under would still have been a shrink slam fit. Especially if you chilled the sleeve. You have parts to retain the sleeve and keep it from slipping. I helped my father a number of times with projects like this, yes one project about 6" ID, cast steel liner into aluminum drum, over .030 interference fit. But, not nearly as long as that sleeve you did here. Dropped in like 8 ball in corner pocket. Super enjoyed all your videos, watch a couple recent ones, been watching the whole catalog for last week. I can help you with a handle for the Atlas in Florida. Let me know if you want to get something "interesting" in the mail. ;-)
I've stuck a few cylinders trying to do that and had to bore them out. That much interference fit is just not necessary , puts a lot of stress on everything and in my opinion and just makes trouble for yourself......Dave
I had a feeling you'd say that. I'll defer to your experience. Great content.
Very interesting video again Dave. Just wondering if this job had come in the shop in the 1925 steam era before that boring mill, how would they have done such a repair?
In a boring mill belted to their line shaft. I hope to belt mine up eventually Smaller cylinders like this one were often done on a lathe, bolted to the carriage with cross slide removed and a boring bar chucked in the spindle...Dave
Yes, ofcourse. Had a temporary brain shut down there and started thinking that boring mills only started to come about after that time but it is quite the opposite actually. There is quite an interesting reading on the history of how machine tools evolved in the book "Foundations of mechanical accuracy" by Moore. The boring mill can be considered actually the first machine tool. The first one was built in England by mr. Wilkinson in the late 18th century to improve the cannons of that time. And there is a funny story that that boring mill was the same invention that mr. Watt needed to make his steam engine work, in order to create a bore precise enough for reasonable fit. The story goes that Watt was so impressed by the bore that he described the mill along the lines that such magical precision was something he could have never even dreamed. And that was a wood framed mill driven by a waterwheel. Pretty cool to think that the first proper machine tool was used to create the first proper steam engine and was in its own way one of the corner stones of the industrial revolution.
So what hold the wrist pin into position?
That should be a screw. The one that caused the problem in the first place.
Circlips? Couldn't see a groove for them in the piston, though. Or - given the loose fit of the gudgeon pin in the piston - maybe the small end of the rod clamps up solid on the pin and that locates it.
I still have an MZ250 2-stroke bike cylinder somewhere that I reassembled with no circlips. Oops.
press into rod? most car engines are this way unless race engine where they are replace more often
On this engine there is a 3/8" bolt tapped into the piston pin boss that screws tight into a shallow hole in the pin (I drilled it later) then a nut locks the bolt. Crude but effective...if you check it now and then....Dave
actually most engines are clipped in with internal snap rings on sides of piston.
Some car engines, not all, have pressed in rods but these are a pain the butt unless you have the heater and press kits.
Is the contrast a bit high now on the vid? Seems a bit over white.
I use the same technique to installing press in rocker studs in automotive cylinder heads. Put the studs in the freezer over night and use a simple butane torch to heat the boss in the cylinder head.....studs press right in no problem!
Hi Dave speaking from experience why didn't you use liquid nitrogen. Would have saved having to remove the cylinder from the HBM and having to realign it again. Great Vid.
If it were mine I would want more press. Then when the cylinder is in the oven, put the sleeve in your freezer. Gives you more time when dropping the sleeve in. Two stroke cylinders are a "joy" to sleeve because you have to align the ports with only 3-4 seconds of working time. Of course I was working with aluminum cylinders which expand more. I was self taught and never had to bore out a sleeve.
Yeah the aluminum cylinders give you an extra 3 seconds.....Dave
Great video! I may never have to install a cast iron sleeve but it's nice to see how it's done.
Who was at the lathe in the very first part of the video (intro)?
Friend, fireman, helper, apprentice, Tom Vitale making a rebuild part for the Morris steam engine....Dave
wouldi it have been simpler to put the sleeve in a deep freezer instead of heating up the cylinder?
Heated up to 475, that's near 400F hotter than ambient.
Breeze to -10F and that is less than 100F cooler.
Cooler is easier to handle but not as effective. Do both if it is real tight ;)
Of course you are right that with cooling the temperature difference is considerably lower. Whether that is sufficient depends on the overlap of the press fit. If a gas factory is not too far away there is also the option of getting bucket filled with liquid nitrogen and dip the sleeve in it.
My local grocery store has dry ice. That can be used also to get a bit more cooling.
Thats right. Only that liquid nitrogen is way colder.
I've used liquid nitrogen for years installing brass,bronze,hard steel, and cast iron never had a problem. on a sleeve that did. and thickness you could expect a .015 shrink.
outside of the novelty factor is there any advantage to steam power over electric?
With a steam plant, if you don't have any steam you go outside, pick up some sticks or other combustible material, procure some water, and voila, you have steam and can make things or move things!
With an electric setup, if you don't have electricity or a reliable way to produce enough (steam plant anyone?) it doesn't matter how many sticks or buckets of water you throw at it, it still wont run.
what happens if you dont have belts?
what do you do if the boiler goes bad?
Why not both,hooka 60kw 3 phase generator to a steam turbine and you got more than enough power for your workshop ,no belts ,and still you can use sticks and bucket of water .
Hi Dave, how do you determines the clearance required on the bore. Is it a calculation, rule of thumb, or from a reference book like the machinerys handbook. Loved the video as it answered a lot of simple set up questions regard mike
I usually figure .0015" per inch of bore plus .001", some would say that is too tight but it would depend on how hard it gets worked and how hot they get. Most hit & miss engines will run all day with a light load and you can stick your hand in the cooling water. The guys at the shop will probably want to clean up the piston some before assembly so that would give it another thou or two.....Dave
Can you get a 1500 rpm from a steam engine or turbine?
Sure if it was built with good bearings and a short stroke. Turbines will run up about as fast as you want to go....Dave
Hi Dave, are you planning on putting the boring mill on the line shaft or is it to much for the steam engine to be able to run it? Love the video keep 'em comein'.
Yes I am when I get it situated where I want it and a concrete pad poured for it....Dave
I hope that you video when you do. Thank you very much for the great videos. I enjoy you videos and all the old steam powered equipment.
Thanks Jesse
Once while grinding the I.D of a hub with a tolerance of .0001 +/-. It was made of aluminum, not sure of the grade. The shop was not temperature controlled so we had to get permission to grind it oversized because of the ambient temperature was in the 90's. Assembly temperature was 68°. Metal moves more than most realize!