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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- Does your car not start? Think your fuel pump is going out? Keep blowing fuel pump relays? Then keep reading.
Had this happening in my 08 Buick Lucerne. Basically the rear seat brackets on the left hand side stick out a bit too far and push on the side of the fuse box. This is a known issue and has had recalls; apparently GM has made a low profile relay to help with this but I haven't come across it yet, however once you get to the point of blowing relays I am doubtful it will help as the socket is too loose by then. But ultimately this pushing from the seat bracket on the side of the fuse box over time as people get in and out loosens or wears out the female/female spade style connector inside the fuse box that runs from the base of the fuse box to the pins that your relays / fuses plug into (inside). Over time this results in a loose connection to the fuel pump relay pin #30. This is your 12volt constant. So due to this poor connection you get arcing and the relay struggles to get the proper voltage gets hot and burns out which compounds the issue over time. Very rarely is the culprit the fuel pump in these cars from my understanding. You can test fuel pump amperage and ensure proper functioning by jumping from pin 30 to pin 87 on the fuse block and turn the key to the on position; if the fuel pump kicks on / car starts it is not the culprit. If you want to be more thorough you can check the amps, you should be somewhat stable between 8.0 and 9.5 amps to the pump.
Unfortunately once this starts to occur your options are limited (4th option is fix shown in video).
Ultimately you have four options.
1.) The optimum solution is to replace the box and cut the seat brackets back (should cut brackets regardless of what fix you do). This is easy to do but expensive. Costs will range 200-260 for junkyard / used on ebay up to 6-700 from the dealership.
2.) You can split the box and install new female to female style spade terminals but this requires drilling out x3 of the grommets to get the box apart to get to them, new pins can be purchased on ebay for around 8 bucks for a pack of x2. Looks difficult and will damage the box permanently but should fix the issue.
3.) If you are pretty electrically savvy you can buy an external relay and bypass the one in the box. This would require finding a 12 v constant (add 20 amp in line fuse), 12v switched (15amp in line fuse), fuel pump wire and grounding the relay.
4.) Finally would be to do this as a temporary / long term fix. Jumper from a good 12v constant to supplement the damaged relay pin 30 with a stable current. Looks like allot of these relays have a fuse in close proximity, for example the 20 amp fuse next to the fuel pump relay in the top left corner of the box. Protects the 12 volt constant to the relay. So what I did was ran a 20 amp inline fuse and attached to one of the two copper spade terminals located in the fuse box, the one closest to the front of the car seems to be a 12 volt constant and the one just below has no voltage (probably a ground); I'm assuming these were added for easy accessory hook up. From that spade terminal I ran a 20 amp inline fuse to the damaged pin 30 of the relay, this should eliminate the chance of taxing another relays available current too much while still providing protection to that the relay. If my logic is correct since we are now splitting the circuit if you swapped the two 20 amp fuses for 10 amp then the overall circuit should have 20 amp protection overall but I'm not 100% on that perhaps somebody can chime in.
Been about two weeks, relay is remaining warm while running and no longer getting scolding hot and it has stopped blowing, everything is working correctly and I haven't had any issues since.
**update. 06/24/24; 6 months later. still going strong. no issues. **
Link to inline fuse (20amps / 16ga)
www.amazon.com...
Wire gauge is 16ga.
Good luck folks! Your feedback is appreciated if this can be improved upon or if there are any potential issues with this fix; please let us know so we can help others. If you did this fix and it helped you leave a comment or a like so others in your position can see the video and keep money in their pocket.
My son just moved across the country, tossed me the keys to his 2008 Lucerne and said "bye dad, can you sell it for me?" He had been having the relay issue the past few months, they seem to only last a few weeks and needing rescued. I think I'll try this and if it works, it might be my daily driver 🙂
@@ronaldbrown4989 based on your description I would say a 97% chance this will resolve your issue. Enjoy the new buick. Nice ride. 3800 is a great motor. Cheaper parts and somewhat easy to work on, known for being reliable with proper maintenance.
Thank you for this. My younger brother is having this exact issue with his Buick Lucerne, and we simply cannot afford several hundred dollars right now. He's owned this car for about 6 months and we've already sunk several hundred dollars in repairs into it, and now this. This would be a huge relief if this is the problem. I'm not sure that he knows to look for another fuse box (under back seat) so great info. Thanks again.
@@Doxymeister hopefully that's the issue, relatively easy / cheap fix if that's the case.
Definite life saver, thank you, going to get the parts later today.
Glad it helped. :)
@SupaJunnt thanks for tip. What is the opposite end of wire connected to? Is that a yellow cap for the exposed wire? Or is it connected to metal of the fusebox...I see the 12awg 20v wire under the fuel relay, but, on the opposite end I see the yellow on the other end, what is the other wire connected to? I have a 2009 Lucerne I have used a paperclip to get it home but I got the 12awg wire with fuses, 20V and 30V. Trying to mimic your repair. Thanks for any assistance.
@@dwayne6781 The yellow end is a spade terminal that I crimped onto the wire and then attached it to the 12v+ accessory spade terminal in the fuse box.
BRO HANDS DOWN GREAT FIX CANT SEEM TO THANK YOU ENOUGH
@@haznojohnsonjohnson8237 really glad it helped. :)
I used 14 gauge home wiring. 2 feet wire, strip ends 3/4 inch. Hammer stripped ends flat. Wrap wire around pencil to coil wire. Remove relay, push flattened copper into hot slot of fuse box. Insert relay. Stretch other end of wire to horn relay hot slot. Then push relay back in. Working great on mine. Barely gets warm in 30celcius day.
No reason that wouldn't work. Like the idea of pounding out the wire and making a spade insert. Probably way beefier than it needs to be but no reason that wouldn't work. We don't use the horn much so that shouldn't cause a fuse to pop unless you hammer on it in traffic possibly (the horn) and even then I am doubtful you will ever have issues. Well played. I like the ingenuity.
My car was sitting for 6 months and I did everything u said and it worked 💪🏿
You are a miracle worker
2 questions:
1. What gauge wire?
2. I’m not blowing fuses. But have the same problem w the pump not working. I can always tell when it’s not gonna start, as I first turn the key over to hear the pump engage and start pushing fuel. When I don’t hear that… no start. The 30 pin is burnt a touch but not blowing the fuse. This no start will happen even if the vehicle is outside in the cold in January and not been run for days. So I know the relay isn’t hot and stopping itself from working. The relay DOES come out easily as yours does. So my question is- could your fix still be useful? Or is it likely the pump itself ?
Cant remember the exact wire gauge but I would imagine 14-16ga would be fine.
It is possible that your fuel pump may be failing. I would jumper from the hot pin on the fuse block to the the pin that is the +12v to the fuel pump. If it powers on then it most likely is a poor connection at the breaker resulting in the relay either not clicking over or possibly sending improper voltage to the pump not allowing it to turn on due to the loose fitment. I cant remember which pin is what now as its been so long so you may need to look at a diagram of the relay pin out or verhicle pin out to ensure you jumper correctly. Do not leave the jumper in though, this is just for testing purposes or getting you home in a pinch. If you leave the jumper in the pump will never turn off and drain your battery. That's why the relay is used, the relay ultimately is just a switch that turns power on and off to the pump when the key is turned to the on position.
The J Case #49 seems to be the location of one end of the inline fuse, since that spot is designated for a 40 amp BLOWER, do you know which blower it powers? By the way this does work, I'm driving right now as a result of this technique, thank you.
J-Case #49 is designated as not used on 08-11 Buick Lucerne. www.autogenius.info/buick-lucerne-2008-2011-fuse-box-diagram/
#48 is designated as a blower. Not sure which blower. If I had to take a guess I would imagine the blower would be for your blower motor located under the dash that controls the output of heat / AC through your vents. Just my guess.
This is exactly what is happening with my car and thank you thank you thank you because absolutely nobody could figure this out for me and my car has been out of commission now for months and it's a fairly new car. I'm going to get the parts to do this now but I have a 2009 Buick Lucerne CXL will this same fix work on my year and model as yours, I hope?
Yes, should work for any lucern from 06-2011. Glad I could help. Post an update once done.
has worked on my 09 Buick lucerne for 4 months now , they make a shorter stance relay for fix , but have yet to find one ....ordered one from amazon for 38 dollars and it was same height
@@marcuscheko3264 Yeah I heard of this lower profile relay as well but could not find one. But I guess if the socket is damaged the shorter stance relay most likely wouldn't help anyways. Really glad this worked well for you.
Can you explain why you need a fuse in that line? If the hot pin at the relay is connected to battery, then this line is not fused anyway. Perhaps you are thinking that the wire at the relay may pop out and short to something else in the box?
The pin that the fuse goes to is the always positive+ pin that is connected to the battery. then when the engine is switched on it then provides power to the pin that runs to the positive+ on the fuel pump completing the circuit. so if there is a short anywhere in line or some sort of short in the breaker the fuse should pop protecting anything upstream / battery / electrical system.
@@CarolFende correct. If the fuel pump shorts it should pop the inline fues installed instead of somthing down stream.
Hello I’m glad I’m came across this video I have the same problem but pin 87 is burned up will this still work ?
The commenter just above you used the horn relay pin and it's working pretty good. Good luck, we're having the same issue with my brother's Buick.
I would expect it should, I would either sand the pin on the relay to clean it up really good or just get a new relay, they are pretty inexpensive. If your socket is bad enough, another commenter bent the pin out sideways and hooked on with a spade terminal then ran to the 12v+ accessory hook up. Both would most likely work, if your socket is very loose you may need to use thicker gauge wire or again, bend the pin sideways and hook onto it with a spade connector. Another option if there is considerable play in 87 socket would be to use a fork connector, chop one half of the fork off then push it into the socket prior to installing the relay to create a secure connection.
Hey man did you step that 20 amp in line fuse down? Or did it all work good with the 20 amp in line
@@haznojohnsonjohnson8237 still running the 20amp fuse. Not sure if it's 100% safe but I haven't had any issues yet and I suppose if something shorts its still fused.
Wanted to think you this actually work I'm driving right now texting this and my relay haven't blown 👍🏼
Bryan, that's great news. I am very happy this helped keep your Buick rolling down the road.
Thanks for the tips. I installed a new relay but I still needed the jumper wire also. Is it because the black fuse box is bad?
Yes, the connection in the box is loose where the relay plugs in (pin #30) and not getting correct voltage.
Unfortunately jumper is the only reliable fix without replacing the entire box.
Glad it helped!
Replaced the block and got a shorter relay about 7-8 months ago. Literally JUST had to have this done on my 2009 Lucerne 🤦🏻♂️ Got my car back a few hours ago😭😭😭
Sorry.... well it's fixed right...
Might want to still cut that bracket back.
I did this fix and it is working, I am concerned that the aux port is always on even if the car is off. Does this mean the fuel pump will always be on also?
That's my concern as well, the fuel pump relay only goes hot when the key is on. I'm thinking about adding an external 12v relay to support the fuel pump relay.
@@sorenstroud1761 No. When you key the car on the relay (think switch) clicks over to the hot pin turning on the fuel pump.
That pin is always hot, similar to the accessory positive the fix is pulling from.
Do you cut the constant power wire underneath the fuse box?
@@devildogforever100 no, you would not need to do anything under the fuse box.
Thank you sir
The only thing I did different from what you did is, I bent the #30 prong on the relay, into a U-shape pointing up and then put a female, spade connector on the end fuse wire. Now instead of shoving the wire down in the hole you just push the female spade connector over the pin, it’s a tight fit between the little 10 amp fuse that’s right next to it but it’ll go.
Love it, that works too. I like it. Still working well I hope?
Would you suggest cutting the bracket back or adding the wire or both to make sure I don’t have this problem in the future?
I would do both and it should future proof it.
Your genius
Thank you, just want to help others get there cars on the road and save money. I cant take all the credit, somebody else gave me the idea by jumpering to a good relay pin; I just improved upon it a little bit.
@@SupaJunnt thanks 👍🏿
This is crazy I was going insane wondering why i was blowing relays my local shop scammed me out of 2k replacing the box and relay
Sorry to hear that. It's not a commonly known fix. I had to do a ton of digging. The more views and likes the more likely people will find the fix. Appreciate the feed back.
Make sure you cut the seat bracket back so it doesn't happen again down the road.
@@SupaJunnt will do man thank you!
Or use an external relay socket.
What is the yellow piece that you put on the end of the fuse line to connect it
That is a 'spade terminal connector' they come in various sizes. The color i believe correlates to wire size / Spade terminal size. Put it over the exposed wire and crimp it on. Or if you don't have crimp tools a pair of pliers will work.
If I don’t have that area to put that spade connection can I run it to my battery?
Yes. That spade connection is 12v constant, same as your battery post.
@@SupaJunnt what size gauge wire did u use this issue is a headache and I could use that 600 on new box for my kids instead thanks for any info
@@marcusrodriguez4272 Not sure on exact gauge. I would imagine 16-18 gauge stranded. Maybe even 20ga. But most likely 18 gauge. "Think speaker wire thickness." It doesn't need to be very thick, in fact that would probably not be beneficial as the relay still needs to plug in. I would go with 18/16 gauge.
wonder if this is still working after 5 months?
@@simmy5883 Yes, still working well. Have not had any issues after the fix.
Update. Been a year now and still working fine, have not had any issues or any more no starts or burned up relays.
@@SupaJunnt I am running fine with this fix!!!
@@simmy5883 glad to hear it! :)
I wish I had a fuel pump problem I have an 07 Buick Lucerne an I have no idea what's going on with it won't start won't crank all I get is a click I've replaced the battery and starter nothing has changed I don't know what's going on with it
Do you have a lock symbol illuminated on your dash when key in?
.
Fuel, Spark and Oxygen. Start with the basics. You can pull a spark plug out of the block and touch it to the block and have somebody crank the vehicle. If it sparks, you have spark, if not I would look into replaceing the ignition coils or the block the coils plug into.
Jump the fuel pump pins bypassing the relay and see if you hear your fuel pump cycle, if it does pump is probably good.
Air usually isn't the issue. Start there, if that doesn't work I would look to see if you have some sort of Schrader valve hook up in the engine compartment to test fuel pressure at the rail to ensure you don't have an obstruction in the fuel line (clogged fuel filter or something like that).
Even with clogged injectors I would expect it to still attempt to start or run poorly.
I'm no mechanic but I would think probably fuel pump, security lockout or possibly ecu type problem.
I asked about the lock icon as the security systems on these cars can be funny and forget your key and will prevent the vehicle from starting. To correct this I believe you click the key to the on position and leave it for 15-30 minutes and it will reset / relearn the key, but look up the procedure to ensure you do it correctly.
I would be curious what your issue is if you figure it out, please post and let us know what it was.
Where did you get the inline fuse and yellow connector from? Like autozone or something? Can you provide both links? That a be awesome thank you
I got the inline fuse off amazon and I had the spade terminal in a terminal kit could probably find both at Autozone.
So I did all of this and the relay is still getting hot, do you think I’m too far gone already? I can’t really afford the fuse box right bow
@@iamharley4325 the relay will still get warm to the touch but shouldn't be scolding hot. Wonder if you have a bad ground or bad connection from relay to fuel pump. Are you still viewing relays with the fix?
I just did this, the relay is still hot to the touch, but not so hot that I pull my hand away... I put a heat gun to it and it was about 130°
@@iamharley4325 probably fine as long as they are no longer popping.
Hey - had this same issue 2008 Lucerne. Replaced the relay and after 5 days - same no start but the relay was fine.
I did this fused jumper from the spade pin and pushed the other wire end to pin #30 and it started right up. Thank you. !
I may try doing an external fuse with taking off the box and connecting underneath to pins 86 and 87.
I have seen comments about this being a GM recall. Has anyone out there had the box replaced by GM under recall or warranty?
@@richleskovec4075 been a minute, I believe i looked into it and it's now expired. I could be wrong though.
ive had same issue , i called Buick dealership, they said any dealership (ford, Buick chevy,) they all claim if car or truck is over 10 years old it's not recall warranty ....so we are stuck with the 750 dollar plus fix or do the jump wire thing fix,
@@marcuscheko3264 ok thanks. i haven't checked any dealers yet. I will do the external relay replacement. I bought a vehicle manual and got the wiring diagram to find the exact wires and under box pin locations to splice into under the box for the ignition switch input and the fuel pump power output to be able to run those into a fused powered and grounded relay to bypass this whole silly issue from GM. We've been driving around now with the bare wire pin wrap shove in method and its been fine. I just want to make it more permanently correct and properly fused on both input and output.
Did this problem only affect the '08 thru '11 models?
06-2011 Buick Lucerns and I think the cadillac DTS? they use the same rear fuse block seat bracket design.
I don't understand how you grounded it
The relay has a dedicated ground, I forget which pin it is but there is already a ground where the relay plugs in, the problem is a lack of positive voltage typically.
Is that why you need to keep the relay in there? So you get the ground? I was just wondering why you keep the relay in there if you’re going around the relay anyway?
@@texaswild7466 exactly. The other pins typically are fine. Yes I kept it in so the other pins can do what they need to do.
Will that cause the fuel pump to go out?
Yes, the relay controls power to the fuel pump; a relay is basically a switch that turns the fuel pump on. So if the relay is not working you will get no power to the fuel pump.
Did this it worked for about 3 months and had to replace the relay.
It may have been bc my fuse disconnected from the 12volt constant not sure tho. Put a new one in a drive around and it did not get overheated this time around.
@@jackvollo7541 Make sure you cut the bracket back s it does not agitate / loosen the relay by pushing on the fuse block lid. Yes a loose fuse / wire would definitely cause it to get hot or not start at all. Depending on how damaged the socket is on pin 30 for the relay you could try a larger wire size to ensure snug fitment / proper connection. Going on 4 months with my fix and still works great; no issues.
How did you connect the wire to the relay
Flattened the wire with a quick pop from a hammer then gently inserted into the port
Thank you
@@517ray glad it helped!
what size fuse is inside the inline fuse? did u find out if u were over fusing?
Currently it is a 20 amp fuse. No I never did find out yet, honestly I forgot about swapping it to a 10 amp and haven't had any issues. Still waiting for somebody a bit more versed in electrical to let me know if it is over fused.
Will changing the 20 amp relay fuse to a 30 amp fuse help the problem
No. The issue is with the connection to the relay and not the connection to its parent fuse. Increasing fuse size would make no difference with the relay connection.
I did this fix and it is working, I am concerned that the aux port is always on even if the car is off. Does this mean the fuel pump will always be on also?
@@sorenstroud1761 yes the aux is constant 12v that goes to the constant 12v of the relay. The relay is basically like a switch. When you key the car on a signal wire tells the relay to switch to the 12v constant to power the fuel pump.
So to answer your question. No if done properly the relay should function as normal and switch off when the key is off.