I see that your door to fender Gap is perfect. But why would you start there? I was always taught to line up the adjustable bolted on door to the welded up unibody/quarter panel, as long as there wasn't prior damage to the quarter. Then make your way forward.
nope, not the best way to do it. i take the air saw and slice down the quarter panel about 5mm from the edge, then move that towards the door, that way the door looks original and the inside edge of the quarter looks original. if it needs it i will add some metal to the gap where i moved the quarter panel then mig ot tig up the gap/s the only area altered is the skin of the quarter which is a very easy area to refinish the metal work
Wouldn't that create a concave door jamb? Or if you move the latch items - change where the striker lands? Just asking, because I'm trying to imagine it. Never thought of either method.
@@cart-wheelsnot when adjusting for upto 3mm it won't move the jam enough to notice, if you have to move it more than 5mm you probably have something structurally wrong and the door latch probably wont be hitting in the right place, if its that bad then it needs to be structurally adjusted first, thats in view of getting gaps 100% perfect when their normal correct fitment is out by a few mill due to factory poor fit and finish or just making stuff that bit more tighter. i've been a panel beater since 1986 and seen a fair few dodgy panel gaps, some times on pattern panels for classics or for 20 years i worked in a London black taxi body shop, after working on modern cars there was alot of making stuff fit, i actually enjoyed that alot more than modern stuff. when there was a short run of around 1 or 2 inches then i was happy to just mig that up but on a panel gap that was out by a few mill for most of its length then i'd rather do a split and shift, i'd tend to always favour the quarter or wing over the door, i did do a few welding rod welds on the door edge but its alot of arsing about as you need to make both sides look proper, you can hide some rough work with seam seal on the inside of the door but that can look wrong as it gets closer to the edge
![งมหอย จับปลา มือเปล่า หาอยู่หากินแบบวีถีอีสานกับแก๊งเซียนหรั่ง ม่วนคัก! [ขอนแก่น] @Sianstudio](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JEJZg6N-AbU/mqdefault.jpg)
Well damn. Tile spacers?! You are a genius! Never would have thought to use em
Nice! Curious how you finished the inside. The outside looks great. Thanks!
I wish this was avail when i was doing mine....what a time saver...
Excellent work 👏
You do very nice work
What’s the inside look like? You going to notice the round bar?
I think you grind some of it down
Since it’s the outside lip, I’d tack the inside as well and then ground it smooth for “factory” finish
looks great!!
Gotta do the same thing to my 240z
I see that your door to fender Gap is perfect. But why would you start there? I was always taught to line up the adjustable bolted on door to the welded up unibody/quarter panel, as long as there wasn't prior damage to the quarter. Then make your way forward.
Nice!
I noticed two guys asking about the inside but no reply don’t you have to weld it up so it matches
The inside of the jamb? This is all really about visual improvements - the gap is the only thing we're concerned about in this video.
pro grade
nope, not the best way to do it.
i take the air saw and slice down the quarter panel about 5mm from the edge, then move that towards the door, that way the door looks original and the inside edge of the quarter looks original.
if it needs it i will add some metal to the gap where i moved the quarter panel then mig ot tig up the gap/s
the only area altered is the skin of the quarter which is a very easy area to refinish the metal work
Wouldn't that create a concave door jamb? Or if you move the latch items - change where the striker lands? Just asking, because I'm trying to imagine it. Never thought of either method.
@@cart-wheelsnot when adjusting for upto 3mm it won't move the jam enough to notice, if you have to move it more than 5mm you probably have something structurally wrong and the door latch probably wont be hitting in the right place, if its that bad then it needs to be structurally adjusted first, thats in view of getting gaps 100% perfect when their normal correct fitment is out by a few mill due to factory poor fit and finish or just making stuff that bit more tighter.
i've been a panel beater since 1986 and seen a fair few dodgy panel gaps, some times on pattern panels for classics or for 20 years i worked in a London black taxi body shop, after working on modern cars there was alot of making stuff fit, i actually enjoyed that alot more than modern stuff.
when there was a short run of around 1 or 2 inches then i was happy to just mig that up but on a panel gap that was out by a few mill for most of its length then i'd rather do a split and shift, i'd tend to always favour the quarter or wing over the door, i did do a few welding rod welds on the door edge but its alot of arsing about as you need to make both sides look proper, you can hide some rough work with seam seal on the inside of the door but that can look wrong as it gets closer to the edge
@@messylaura thanks! Great info.
Thats actually a good idea....
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