Hi, this is Luis from Little Machine Shop. Been here over 11 years and this is the 1st time that I've seen your video. I very much enjoy it and it was very creative way of avoiding damaging the gears in your mill. I get allot customer calling to replace their gears, so I'm very familiar with that particular gear. Allot of customer eventually upgrade to the metal gears instead of keeping the white plastic gears. I'm glad to hear you were able to received your order quickly. When we get orders place before 2 P.M. we get them out that very same day as long as were not out of stock on the item, so thank you for the compliment on the speedy shipping.
Luis Ocampo Thank you Luis. you deserve good compliment because you were quick and easy to order from and I was very peased with your service. I have been thinking about doing the upgrade to this unit with the belt drive system and pneumatic with longer ratchet bar because when using colletts the head will not go down far enough to work on small pieces. do you have this kit on your website ?.
MARK, BACK IN THE 80'S I MADE A SIMILAR FIX TO A PANOREX MACHINE. THIS IS A DENTAL X RAY MACHINE WITH A SWINGING HEAD AND A LOCKING PIN. IF YOU USE THE MACHINE WITH THE STAY PIN IN PLACE. YOU STRIP THE GEARS IN THE DRIVE MOTOR. I WAS AS OUTSIDE REPAIR MAN TO THE DENTIST AND DID MANY SIMILAR REPAIRS FOR THE PRACTICE. I USED A 1/4 IN. MICROPHONE JACK WITH CONTACTS THAT OPENED WHEN THE STAY PIN WAS INSERTED, UNTIL THEN THERE WAS NO POWER TO THE MACHINE. I FOLLOW YOU VIDEOS IN PARTICULAR THE KEYBOARDS , KORG PA- 4X LOVE TO LISTEN TO YOUR VIDEOS.
Well done as you said on the cheap..used to full size mills...but bought one of these bench top for home...Oh My little machine shop in Pasadena calif has a metal gear conversion set
Great solution, but if anyone wants a very fast free alternative, you can also take the insert pin and tape it at the plug end of your power cord. It ensures that you have the machine unplugged as you change the tools. As a teacher in a high school this serves a double purpose as well. Kids may sometimes forget to close the safety so this makes sure the machine can't be activated. I do this with many tools, like the few drills that still have chuck keys and grinders as well.
Clever. I have left that rod in there myself once. Luckily, I didn't break the gear. But here's an even easier solution. Get a long spring from the hardware store that slips over that long metal step, and goes from the stem handle all the way down to within 1/4" of the end. When you put the stem in, you will have to HOLD it there with your hand, or the spring will push it out. It will now be impossible to leave that rod in there when you turn on the machine, because it won't stay in unless you are holding it. It's still easy enough to loosen the drawbar nut with your left hand while you hold the locking rod in with your right.
This is an excellent modification. The final result looks like it was part of the original design. I've been thinking about getting one of these mini-mills for creating panels and brackets as well. It looks like it's easy to maintain and fix.
Synthesizer Keith Hello Keith, The main reason I got this was to make it easier to get holes drilled in a straight line as I’m hoping to make some synth panels, my old drill press did not have the X Y table which makes things much easier, it is a bit noisy but seems to work well. I think in the states it is sold as Grizzly or littlemachineshop and there is a belt drive version now available. Good luck, im loving your video’s - keep up the good work.
i keep breaking them becuase of unreasonable demands placed on my poor little machine lol. i just bought the belt conversion lot so that slippage instead pf gears shredding occurs. that said this is a brilliant idea
I was going to make something with the 3D printer but then thought not everyone has a 3d printer who uses these minimills but they will most likely have a strip of aluminium hanging around somewhere.
Excellent. I would not patent anything I am just happy if other people can use ideas. I think the makers of this mill should implement this idea in new mills. many thanks from Markus.
Sharklops that sounds positive but I have not been into 3d printing long enough to fully test what a 3d printed gear could stand upto. i will go and wat a few of this guys videos they sound interesting and maybe i could learn something from them. many thanks.
There is also a disconnect switch on the front of the machine that deactivates the machine when the safety shield is moved out of the way (unless you completely remove it all together like markusfuller apparently did) one could possibly use that switch or the connections to make a holder with switch for the round stopping bar
markusfuller you did mention that. I have spent time in metal work in school and college Where I would find hard to find a small "bar" if it was put down somewhere unexpected 😋
Yes I always have that problem. put something down and it magically disappears. at least this way the bar will always be in the control box as it will not work without it now.
Hey, I've been put in charge of trying to fix up an old Korg MS-20 at my work (kind of for fun, I don't really have a background in electronics), and I'm wondering if I could get an opinion. The main problem is the volume sometimes cuts out to a lower level. Otherwise it works fine. I've taken it apart and checked out the circuit boards, and all the solder joints look clean. My plan is to clean all the pots and patch connections, as well as the case. I'm hopeful its just a bad/dirty volume pot and cleaning it up will make some magic repair happen. Any thoughts?
Hi. I think I would start off by doing exactly what you do. if there was no sound at all then that would be a different problem but as you are getting sound then it may be just a bad pot somewhere that is temperamental. have you tried with a "continuous note on - ie jam a key down" then wiggle the various pots just a little to see if any volume jumps up/down as that could be the pot with the problem.
Hey thanks for the response! That was pretty much my assessment, that it can't be too big a problem if we're getting a constant sound through the guy, although my boss told me he wished he had my youthful confidence. I'll try the continuous note if a clean up doesn't change anything to see if its a completely rotten pot causing the issue. Thanks a lot!
or I will lose the bar and the mill will never work again until I find a place I can buy them from. money saved on replacement gears spent on new bar ;-)
Markus, seriously why didn’t you print a cog in the 3D printer? Do they take as long to print as to be delivered? Designing too difficult? What about scanning a cog and rendering it to the correct depth then printing it? I suspect the tolerances would be too poor even for that home milling machine.
Henrik Karlberg Hi yes all the original switches still function correctly as intended. the rod if removed from the bow just disconnects the power and reconnects when placed back in.
Mark, this is absolutely brilliant! By the way, I'm guessing the European parts shop ordered that part from the same shop you ordered the identical part from. :) By the way, couldn't you scan that part with a 3D laser scanner, and then run it off on a 3D printer? Thanks, and keep up the great works!
Hmm, yeh, probably so, if the cog had to be made of a tougher plastic than what's used in a 3D printer. Likely a cast could be made, and then the tougher actual part could be cast from the 3D printed casting.
ThomasGrillo yes this one is cast in abs which is quite tough. you can 3d print with abs but you need an enclosed 3d printer with warm ait to get a good fixed print.
I wrecked this gear on my mini mill over the weekend. I 3D printed a replacement out of ASA. I'll only use this ASA gear until I can source a replacement plastic one. Where did you get your replacement gear from?
Here's a bit of fun, recapture your audio in audacity. Select all and split into mono, mute one of the channels, and play back. Sounds much nicer. Edit, I'm not using any bullshit Creative or Realtek devices. Just in case you were thinking that was the meaning for mentioning this, people.
You can get your Sieg X-2milling machine converted to a SX-2 by changing over your brushed powertrain to brushless type one. So along with all the advantages of a real brushless AC servo motor you'd get a toothed belt transmission as well so you'll never get the plastic gears broken as they are gone. It runs extremely quiet yet does provide quite much amount of torque at very low revs. SX-2 assumes a bar is suck into the lower part of a spindle which is located under a headstock housing.
and that it provides a weak point where a user can easily replace the part. if it was metal then more damage could have been done to the motor or inside the gearbox.
Hi, this is Luis from Little Machine Shop. Been here over 11 years and this is the 1st time that I've seen your video. I very much enjoy it and it was very creative way of avoiding damaging the gears in your mill. I get allot customer calling to replace their gears, so I'm very familiar with that particular gear. Allot of customer eventually upgrade to the metal gears instead of keeping the white plastic gears. I'm glad to hear you were able to received your order quickly. When we get orders place before 2 P.M. we get them out that very same day as long as were not out of stock on the item, so thank you for the compliment on the speedy shipping.
Luis Ocampo Thank you Luis. you deserve good compliment because you were quick and easy to order from and I was very peased with your service. I have been thinking about doing the upgrade to this unit with the belt drive system and pneumatic with longer ratchet bar because when using colletts the head will not go down far enough to work on small pieces. do you have this kit on your website ?.
MARK, BACK IN THE 80'S I MADE A SIMILAR FIX TO A PANOREX MACHINE. THIS IS A DENTAL X RAY MACHINE WITH A SWINGING HEAD AND A LOCKING PIN. IF YOU USE THE MACHINE WITH THE STAY PIN IN PLACE. YOU STRIP THE GEARS IN THE DRIVE MOTOR. I WAS AS OUTSIDE REPAIR MAN TO THE DENTIST AND DID MANY SIMILAR REPAIRS FOR THE PRACTICE. I USED A 1/4 IN. MICROPHONE JACK WITH CONTACTS THAT OPENED WHEN THE STAY PIN WAS INSERTED, UNTIL THEN THERE WAS NO POWER TO THE MACHINE. I FOLLOW YOU VIDEOS IN PARTICULAR THE KEYBOARDS , KORG PA- 4X LOVE TO LISTEN TO YOUR VIDEOS.
ROBERT SMITH Thankyou Robert. I think using a jack socket is a brilliant idea.
Well done as you said on the cheap..used to full size mills...but bought one of these bench top for home...Oh My little machine shop in Pasadena calif has a metal gear conversion set
Great solution, but if anyone wants a very fast free alternative, you can also take the insert pin and tape it at the plug end of your power cord. It ensures that you have the machine unplugged as you change the tools.
As a teacher in a high school this serves a double purpose as well. Kids may sometimes forget to close the safety so this makes sure the machine can't be activated.
I do this with many tools, like the few drills that still have chuck keys and grinders as well.
Clever. I have left that rod in there myself once. Luckily, I didn't break the gear. But here's an even easier solution. Get a long spring from the hardware store that slips over that long metal step, and goes from the stem handle all the way down to within 1/4" of the end. When you put the stem in, you will have to HOLD it there with your hand, or the spring will push it out. It will now be impossible to leave that rod in there when you turn on the machine, because it won't stay in unless you are holding it. It's still easy enough to loosen the drawbar nut with your left hand while you hold the locking rod in with your right.
markusfuller , great fix , i hope the makers of these mills see this as it would be a very useful addition !
This is an excellent modification. The final result looks like it was part of the original design. I've been thinking about getting one of these mini-mills for creating panels and brackets as well. It looks like it's easy to maintain and fix.
Synthesizer Keith Hello Keith, The main reason I got this was to make it easier to get holes drilled in a straight line as I’m hoping to make some synth panels, my old drill press did not have the X Y table which makes things much easier, it is a bit noisy but seems to work well. I think in the states it is sold as Grizzly or littlemachineshop and there is a belt drive version now available. Good luck, im loving your video’s - keep up the good work.
Still this is rather ingenious...good job!
i keep breaking them becuase of unreasonable demands placed on my poor little machine lol. i just bought the belt conversion lot so that slippage instead pf gears shredding occurs.
that said this is a brilliant idea
Very neat idea especially in the space you had to fit it.
Thank you for sharing, much appreciated.
The joys of ups/fed ex/dhl. We all like a story with a happy ending, great job.
Cever and brilliant hack!!! I was first thinking you made some 3D model and printed it out on one of those 3D printers you got.
I was going to make something with the 3D printer but then thought not everyone has a 3d printer who uses these minimills but they will most likely have a strip of aluminium hanging around somewhere.
i love all of yr videos! they’re always fun yet informative, thank you
Thank You very much
Excellent idea. Thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
"If you kill yourself, don't go running to me." Classic Markus quote. Double thumbs up!
That's just brill' ! Thanks for a very useful tip. Just like leaving the key in the lathe chuck, except it won't start up! Thank you:))
Brilliant idea, and I love watching all your videos. Thanks
Thanks Joseph
Now Mark that is absolutely awesome, I have the same mill and man am I going to do that mod...you should patent it.
Excellent. I would not patent anything I am just happy if other people can use ideas. I think the makers of this mill should implement this idea in new mills. many thanks from Markus.
Never had the little bar - or lost it ages ago.
Machined a small closely-fitted steel bit and put it on a magnet near the hole.
Belt Drive Conversion no more Broken Gears and much Quieter does not sound like a Coffee Can full of Marbles
Make it spring at the tip.
It will not stay in.
Cheaper.
Nice work. It should come with that safety feature built-in.
AlainHubert Hello Alain, it would only cost them one microswitch and a hole. im sure it could be added to new units really easily.
Brilliant! Really enjoyed that one, thanks Markus!
Thank you :-)
A workshop tour would be nice!
my house is my workshop. things everywhere.
Excellent power mod.
Have you looked into 3D printing your own replacement gears, if the gear goes again under different circumstances?
Hi Andy. i dont think a 3D printed cog would be strong enough for this machine.
Sharklops that sounds positive but I have not been into 3d printing long enough to fully test what a 3d printed gear could stand upto. i will go and wat a few of this guys videos they sound interesting and maybe i could learn something from them. many thanks.
I personally put the draw bar on a pull pin switch on the side. To use it you have to pull the pin. The pin is the safety.
There is also a disconnect switch on the front of the machine that deactivates the machine when the safety shield is moved out of the way (unless you completely remove it all together like markusfuller apparently did) one could possibly use that switch or the connections to make a holder with switch for the round stopping bar
Great stuff. JOB! Now paint that "bar" a Britt colours So it Easy and fast to find! 😋
I tried the elastic band trick but still broke another cog.
markusfuller you did mention that. I have spent time in metal work in school and college Where I would find hard to find a small "bar" if it was put down somewhere unexpected 😋
Yes I always have that problem. put something down and it magically disappears. at least this way the bar will always be in the control box as it will not work without it now.
Clever and smart !
What a great idea well thought out
Hey, I've been put in charge of trying to fix up an old Korg MS-20 at my work (kind of for fun, I don't really have a background in electronics), and I'm wondering if I could get an opinion. The main problem is the volume sometimes cuts out to a lower level. Otherwise it works fine.
I've taken it apart and checked out the circuit boards, and all the solder joints look clean. My plan is to clean all the pots and patch connections, as well as the case. I'm hopeful its just a bad/dirty volume pot and cleaning it up will make some magic repair happen. Any thoughts?
Hi. I think I would start off by doing exactly what you do. if there was no sound at all then that would be a different problem but as you are getting sound then it may be just a bad pot somewhere that is temperamental. have you tried with a "continuous note on - ie jam a key down" then wiggle the various pots just a little to see if any volume jumps up/down as that could be the pot with the problem.
Hey thanks for the response! That was pretty much my assessment, that it can't be too big a problem if we're getting a constant sound through the guy, although my boss told me he wished he had my youthful confidence. I'll try the continuous note if a clean up doesn't change anything to see if its a completely rotten pot causing the issue. Thanks a lot!
Great safety mod
They should do this as standard for lathes’ chuck keys too.
I just hang a red tag on the end of the lock, that hangs down to the table. You can't help but see it ...before you crank the motor on!
Of course Sod's Law states that having now done this mod you'll never ever forget to take the bar out again :-)
or I will lose the bar and the mill will never work again until I find a place I can buy them from. money saved on replacement gears spent on new bar ;-)
Markus, seriously why didn’t you print a cog in the 3D printer? Do they take as long to print as to be delivered? Designing too difficult? What about scanning a cog and rendering it to the correct depth then printing it?
I suspect the tolerances would be too poor even for that home milling machine.
i liked this.
Does the real power switch still work?
Can you turn it off or on with the rod still in the box with the red power switch?
Henrik Karlberg Hi yes all the original switches still function correctly as intended. the rod if removed from the bow just disconnects the power and reconnects when placed back in.
cool
Mark, this is absolutely brilliant! By the way, I'm guessing the European parts shop ordered that part from the same shop you ordered the identical part from. :) By the way, couldn't you scan that part with a 3D laser scanner, and then run it off on a 3D printer? Thanks, and keep up the great works!
Hi Thomas. to be honest I do not think a 3D printed cog would have been upto the job.
Hmm, yeh, probably so, if the cog had to be made of a tougher plastic than what's used in a 3D printer. Likely a cast could be made, and then the tougher actual part could be cast from the 3D printed casting.
ThomasGrillo yes this one is cast in abs which is quite tough. you can 3d print with abs but you need an enclosed 3d printer with warm ait to get a good fixed print.
I wrecked this gear on my mini mill over the weekend. I 3D printed a replacement out of ASA. I'll only use this ASA gear until I can source a replacement plastic one. Where did you get your replacement gear from?
Very clever fix...
Great great video !!!!!!!!!!!
very informative thanks for sharing.
Nice🤗
Paint the locking pin / rod bright orange! =]
Next video: "How to attach a chain to the bar because I lost the damn bar and now I can't start my machine" :D
That would probably be me! But I also have round bar around.
Brilliant.
Here's a bit of fun, recapture your audio in audacity. Select all and split into mono, mute one of the channels, and play back. Sounds much nicer.
Edit, I'm not using any bullshit Creative or Realtek devices. Just in case you were thinking that was the meaning for mentioning this, people.
You can get your Sieg X-2milling machine converted to a SX-2 by changing over your brushed powertrain to brushless type one. So along with all the advantages of a real brushless AC servo motor you'd get a toothed belt transmission as well so you'll never get the plastic gears broken as they are gone. It runs extremely quiet yet does provide quite much amount of torque at very low revs. SX-2 assumes a bar is suck into the lower part of a spindle which is located under a headstock housing.
Exelent mod, did it yesterday, I used one of the fuse wires and I am not sure if this was the right one to use, like a comment thank you
I was going to try this with a fuse wire also. Does anybody know if this is the best wire to switch?
They sell a belt drive system for that mill or metal gears, stop jerking around with it.
: ) !!
Get rid of the junk gears
I suppose it is intentionally bad designed to squeeze money for spare gears. Good design cares of fools.
and that it provides a weak point where a user can easily replace the part. if it was metal then more damage could have been done to the motor or inside the gearbox.
Great Idea, Kudos ! but your solution is kinda trashy ! You do have a Mill so one would think your solution should be way more classy !