This is the way my father taught me how to sharpen mower blades. I have been doing it the same way for 50+ years. Hand sharpening with a file will extend the life of the blade at least twice as long. One thing i would like to add....if the blade is heavier on one side or the other, take the weight off from the end of the blade to balance it. You won't have to remove much.😉
I never sharpen my blades "razor sharp", the fine edge gets nicked too easy this way. Should be similar to a butter knife edge. I will admit, I found this out the hard way as I would initially sharpen razor sharp. Much more nicks in the blade after the season. Butter knife style, minimal nicks and grass blades are still cut clean! Good luck folks!
@flannelguydiy6458 that's awesome. I really wish I could say the same. I honestly only sharpen my blade at the end of every season, not several times. Between all the landscaping on mine and my neighbors yard and their avocado trees my blade get pretty whooped. Those avocado pits are as bad as rocks!
Good stuff. I use a diamond stone and run it along the blade at a uniform angle. I also wear heavy leather gloves as the blade is VERY sharp after. Easy to slip your hand onto it. Sharp blades give a brillint cut and wont slow down the motor
No offense and I’m sure this works because I’ve done it but this is a blade that is in really good shape. One might even say it doesn’t really need sharpening
First, thank you for watching and NO offense taken at all. That is what the comment area is for. One MAY say that blades do not need sharpening, but they would be incorrect. A sharp blade is important for the health of the lawn. Having a clean cut is what the lawn needs. When the blade is dull, the cut is jagged and every top lawn expert will say the same thing. I spent some time at Jonathan Green headquarters last year and the owner of the company shared the same thing with me... the importance of a sharp blade.
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Garage sale & estate sales are the best places to find good ones at good prices usually they've already got the entire set and any cleaner or maintenance tools that you may need later or tool box things like that basically they've done all the work over the years you benefit with a one time purchase & usually older tools are made better quality , yes they will probably need a bit of TLC & clean up but ask any craftsman they will tell you it's worth it for a quality tool and files, chisels & lathes are essential tools for any wood shop especially.
I have a few files that are different but I use a flat bastard file (no joke, it's on the file 🤣) and a flat smooth one to finish it. Basically just a coarse and a fine file but one is definitely a bastard lol couldn't resist 🤣👊
If you want to sharpen with a file, after doing it your way to get the metal exposed, get at the end of the blade and turn the file 90 degrees from the blade. Rotate it to your bevel angle and push across the blade. This will flatten the filed area and sharpen the blade. Pushing the file front to handle is too aggressive! So, 90 degrees, light pressure, control the angle.
When you sharpen a blade like this, a 'burr' of metal extends out and away from the edge of the blade. Make sure to get rid of this by running the file flat along the opposite side of the blade. This might have to be done a few times.
Make sure to disconnect the spark plug before going near the blade. Also remember to reconnect plug afterward or you'll be pulling like a fool to start. Not that I've ever done that.
Sadly, you're using the file "backwards." Every file has a "tang"; you should hold that (preferably with a handle on it) and push from that end. Files have "teeth" (like saws - metal (hack) and wood) that are designed to cut when moved in one direction only.. Your point of not changing the angle of bevel is fine - if the angle you are working to is correct! If your blades have been sharpened before (and by someone else) this may not be the optimum angle.
The files you were using are designed to cut in one direction, opposite of the direction you were using. You were pulling down on the file and should have been pushing upward. When you pull the file across the metal you are trying to remove material from, it doesn't remove anything, it just makes the material shiny, and it helps to dull the file. Unless the file is a "crosscut", it will only cut in one direction, which is pushing the file away from you when holding the handle... Otherwise, it was an informative video for sharpening blades without the use of grinders and the like.
Just het a cheap $10 4-1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight and a flap disc. You can sharpen your blades in a matter of minutes wkth a razor edge. Then balance the blades on a plastic blace balancer or on a nail. Files are cangerous if you slip and too time consuming.
You should file the other direction. It rolls less of a burr that way. Also a $15 4 1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight is much quicker and only removes as much metal as you want.
Yeah, the new blades are coated and not sharp. Always sharpen them and clean off the coating. Keep two or three in the rotation to always have a sharp blade ready.
I wish it was that easy. The problem is, you are sharpening a plastic blade from Toys-R-Us. I have a SCAG 30" walk behind. It has two 15 1/4 inch blades, and the cutting edges are not straight and flat. The blade is "gull-wing" shaped, making the task harder. To make it clear, the edge starts off straight, then dips down so that you have to sharpen the blade part that dips down on a slant, and then the edge goes flat again and straight to the end. Do you know what the wing of the WWII Vought F4U Corsair looks like? I had a TORO TIMEMASTER that uses this same kind of blade. Then things get worse. The blade is manufactured where all the metal is not the same throughout. The cutting edge is composed of ultra-hard "tempered steel." I would NEVER use a grinder to sharpen such a blade because it would destroy the temper - due to the white-hot grinding heat. So, I bought the biggest hand file I could find - a massive bastard-type file with a 16-inch blade length. This file requires you to shove a wooden or plastic handle on the end. If you don't, you will tear up your hand. I had good success with this file on my Toro. However, the SCAG steel is SO HARD, you better include a Halo sweatband and a vice as part of your tools. I have never encountered a mower blade as hard as this SCAG blade. It is very difficult to sharpen - but that is a GOOD thing! My yard, including my house, is one acre.
![Math for Game Devs [2022, part 1] • Numbers, Vectors & Dot Product](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fjOdtSu4Lm4/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the way my father taught me how to sharpen mower blades. I have been doing it the same way for 50+ years. Hand sharpening with a file will extend the life of the blade at least twice as long. One thing i would like to add....if the blade is heavier on one side or the other, take the weight off from the end of the blade to balance it. You won't have to remove much.😉
Wrapping the paper around the file, brilliant! I'm definitely using that trick next time! Thanks for sharing.
How to do it with just simple basic (less costly) tools is very helpful, thank you.
thank you for watching. Please share the video for me. Much appreciated.
Very helpful simple description I appreciate. Thanks!
Thank you for this post!🙂
Very helpful videos. Thank you very much
I never sharpen my blades "razor sharp", the fine edge gets nicked too easy this way. Should be similar to a butter knife edge. I will admit, I found this out the hard way as I would initially sharpen razor sharp. Much more nicks in the blade after the season. Butter knife style, minimal nicks and grass blades are still cut clean! Good luck folks!
i dont run over rocks and sticks so razor sharp works for me
@flannelguydiy6458 that's awesome. I really wish I could say the same. I honestly only sharpen my blade at the end of every season, not several times. Between all the landscaping on mine and my neighbors yard and their avocado trees my blade get pretty whooped. Those avocado pits are as bad as rocks!
Running some leather across it (strop) will strengthen your edge
@u.sonomabeach6528 just like the 'ol straight razors! A block of wood works well too, takes that sharpest edge off.
@@u.sonomabeach6528 😁🤣😛🤪 NO, It Will Not.... 🤣😅😃🥱
Thanks for info and I like the file and how to use correctly
Good stuff. I use a diamond stone and run it along the blade at a uniform angle. I also wear heavy leather gloves as the blade is VERY sharp after. Easy to slip your hand onto it. Sharp blades give a brillint cut and wont slow down the motor
Thanks for the great video it helped me get my blade much sharper
thank you for watching
Been using a hand file for decades. Only takes a couple minutes to put on a sharp edge.
Thnx i was looking for somebody to tell me i was doing it right😜. All those vids of ppl using electric tools...
I always used a flat file on my blades. I can shave the hair off my arm after I'm done. And the grass looks amazing.
I use a double cut mill file, 14", then std fine.
He should of used a blade with some heavy dings in it. Would of been a better object lesson.
Thx
thank you for watching
I like this method better, you remove less material, thanks
It’s a good way todo it if your worried about throwing it out of balance, I always use a grinder but you must be careful doing it that way
that is why I used the file
Watching this blade being sharpened with a file, I can’t help but think about the movie Sling Blade😁
Carl on that "Sling Blade" movie seemed to do good "Kaiser" blade sharpening!
Mmmph uh huh!
i noticed you didnt forget the eye protection available at Dollar Tree stores or your local discount stores.
Great video and thanks for sharing! #NewSubscriber
No offense and I’m sure this works because I’ve done it but this is a blade that is in really good shape. One might even say it doesn’t really need sharpening
First, thank you for watching and NO offense taken at all. That is what the comment area is for. One MAY say that blades do not need sharpening, but they would be incorrect. A sharp blade is important for the health of the lawn. Having a clean cut is what the lawn needs. When the blade is dull, the cut is jagged and every top lawn expert will say the same thing. I spent some time at Jonathan Green headquarters last year and the owner of the company shared the same thing with me... the importance of a sharp blade.
Love the eye protection reminder. Thanks for the video!
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night th-cam.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
What are some good files brands to choose from and where would you recommend for a reasonable price?
Garage sale & estate sales are the best places to find good ones at good prices usually they've already got the entire set and any cleaner or maintenance tools that you may need later or tool box things like that basically they've done all the work over the years you benefit with a one time purchase & usually older tools are made better quality , yes they will probably need a bit of TLC & clean up but ask any craftsman they will tell you it's worth it for a quality tool and files, chisels & lathes are essential tools for any wood shop especially.
A putty knife and a tree stump works good for cleaning the debris off the blades too.
can you seal the blade with spray paint or oil so it does not rust?
Use boiled linseed oil or a mix of that and beeswax(paste wax).
What type of metal file do you need? is there a rating or grit type?
I have a few files that are different but I use a flat bastard file (no joke, it's on the file 🤣) and a flat smooth one to finish it. Basically just a coarse and a fine file but one is definitely a bastard lol couldn't resist 🤣👊
Use a sharpie and cover the space you’re working on, in order to see where you’ve sharpened.
yes I have done that
"I don't run over rocks like you guys do" 😂
where on those blades did it look like I hit rocks? at the 39 second mark I specifically say I am not running over rocks.
@@flannelguydiy6458 I was quoting yourself for the most part.
Angle grinder 80 grit flap disk your welcome
what keeps the grass clogging up and not going to the bagger?
Maybe wet grass, or too deep of cut in one go.
If you want to sharpen with a file, after doing it your way to get the metal exposed, get at the end of the blade and turn the file 90 degrees from the blade. Rotate it to your bevel angle and push across the blade. This will flatten the filed area and sharpen the blade. Pushing the file front to handle is too aggressive! So, 90 degrees, light pressure, control the angle.
When you sharpen a blade like this, a 'burr' of metal extends out and away from the edge of the blade. Make sure to get rid of this by running the file flat along the opposite side of the blade. This might have to be done a few times.
yeah i talk about the burr in my knife sharpening videos
Make sure to disconnect the spark plug before going near the blade. Also remember to reconnect plug afterward or you'll be pulling like a fool to start. Not that I've ever done that.
😂 lol...this 👆
HOW MANY HOURS ON THOSE BLADES ? 25, 30 ish???
each one... 15 min. thank you for watching
@@flannelguydiy6458I think he meant how many hours of mower use on the blades, not how many hours to sharpen the blades.
I don't have grass or a lawnmower anymore 😅
i guess it would be pointless to have a lawnmower with no grass ! However, you can use this to sharpen any tool.
Why u watching this video then😅
Congrats on your divorce.
lol 😆@@SkootchabitWoodjya
Sadly, you're using the file "backwards." Every file has a "tang"; you should hold that (preferably with a handle on it) and push from that end. Files have "teeth" (like saws - metal (hack) and wood) that are designed to cut when moved in one direction only.. Your point of not changing the angle of bevel is fine - if the angle you are working to is correct! If your blades have been sharpened before (and by someone else) this may not be the optimum angle.
The files you were using are designed to cut in one direction, opposite of the direction you were using. You were pulling down on the file and should have been pushing upward. When you pull the file across the metal you are trying to remove material from, it doesn't remove anything, it just makes the material shiny, and it helps to dull the file. Unless the file is a "crosscut", it will only cut in one direction, which is pushing the file away from you when holding the handle... Otherwise, it was an informative video for sharpening blades without the use of grinders and the like.
plants and birds and... 0:39
Just het a cheap $10 4-1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight and a flap disc. You can sharpen your blades in a matter of minutes wkth a razor edge. Then balance the blades on a plastic blace balancer or on a nail. Files are cangerous if you slip and too time consuming.
You should file the other direction. It rolls less of a burr that way. Also a $15 4 1/2" grinder from Harbor Freight is much quicker and only removes as much metal as you want.
I think I would use gloves so I wouldn’t get over jealous and cut my finger.
i cannot use gloves
Am I supposed to sharpen a brand new lawn mower blade?
No
only if it is not sharp
Yeah, the new blades are coated and not sharp. Always sharpen them and clean off the coating. Keep two or three in the rotation to always have a sharp blade ready.
Every new blade I've ever bought, needed sharpened and balanced.
I wish it was that easy. The problem is, you are sharpening a plastic blade from Toys-R-Us. I have a SCAG 30" walk behind. It has two 15 1/4 inch blades, and the cutting edges are not straight and flat. The blade is "gull-wing" shaped, making the task harder. To make it clear, the edge starts off straight, then dips down so that you have to sharpen the blade part that dips down on a slant, and then the edge goes flat again and straight to the end. Do you know what the wing of the WWII Vought F4U Corsair looks like? I had a TORO TIMEMASTER that uses this same kind of blade. Then things get worse. The blade is manufactured where all the metal is not the same throughout. The cutting edge is composed of ultra-hard "tempered steel." I would NEVER use a grinder to sharpen such a blade because it would destroy the temper - due to the white-hot grinding heat. So, I bought the biggest hand file I could find - a massive bastard-type file with a 16-inch blade length. This file requires you to shove a wooden or plastic handle on the end. If you don't, you will tear up your hand. I had good success with this file on my Toro. However, the SCAG steel is SO HARD, you better include a Halo sweatband and a vice as part of your tools. I have never encountered a mower blade as hard as this SCAG blade. It is very difficult to sharpen - but that is a GOOD thing! My yard, including my house, is one acre.
A file?? Use a bench grinder and a diamond stone.
Where does TH-cam find these people ?
Never use a file this way
If you use a file use a full stroke of the file to sharpen your blade by hand. Even wear is what you want.
And what is this way?
I was cringing while watching
@@3rdyellowback and forth with file is the wrong way. Go one full direction and never back and forth
Yeah, you're right, but it really isn't a big deal.
Poor files
If one of the blades is a bit bent should i give it a few wacks of a hammer ?
i would toss the blade and get a new one. Being out of shape can be bad for your mower deck and it can shake the pulley loose
@@flannelguydiy6458 Thanks, I will so
Give it a few whacks anyway, just to make you feel better. 😁
How do you correct an unbalance? File off more?