Watching this as a service tech, he knows his shit. I'm agreeing with everything that he says, gotta find that cleaning setup though. He won at Amazon purchases.
I would actually really enjoy working with this guy irl I’m really new to this channel and want to go to school for HVAC. Really enjoying it so far, no way to get bored!
Down here in Pasco County, Florida, we basically can't offer ductless units anymore. Pasco now requires that we calculate heat loads, draw plans, and so on, so after we pay an external electrical company to run power for a disconnect box (permit requirement) and get a certified state official to perform a heat load calculation (permit required), the equipment is the cheapest part of the whole thing and so a 1-ton unit can cost like $6000. That's like, a whole AC replacement when we reuse ductwork. What we've offered for the past 3 system-additions is either a mini split or just straight-up upgrade the tonnage on the central AC and add ductwork, and while it wasn't always *cheaper* than a minisplit, it often made more sense than a minisplit so they went with that. We also actually offered them to befriend a tech in the industry that is willing to do it on the side, because if you get a professional install at just the cost of equipment and his day, it only costs like $2500 max if they use a very high-quality brand like Mitsubishi or Daikin.
With annual HVAC maintenance; when the condenser cabinet is taken apart for service/cleaning it never is the same. The screws are never put in right or they vibrate out shortly. One thing I hate is a condense cabinetr that rattles.
You gotta link for that wand you stick in the condenser. And do you have any training resources for those bosch units. My company installs a lot of them and I want to be ahead of the game for when that day comes when they break down
Watch your videos all the time, I’m in the area & been doing hvac over a year & a half. I have a job rn, but I’m always looking to better myself and my career would love to work for your company, been keeping up with your vid’s for a while commented like a year ago with this same type of comment🤣gonna keep trying. Seems very professional and a great learning experience just had my baby 6 months ago and want her to have a lot & I’ll put in work. I’m located in elkton ky but can travel & will show up as needed every damn day
Damn you hiring? Fishing on the clock is my kind of job. My mom lived in Sparta tn for a while, and than she lived outside of Murfreesboro where they did that bar rescue at that biker bar.
If the duct fits on the trunk line. Go for it. Everybody wants to add square footage to their living area. But nobody thinks about how to do it properly. And I want to know who put that duct on there and said. Yeah. It should work.
or if you in a high humidity environment then you'll have the humidity from the household going into the indoor unit and out the drain line. thus at one point or another you'll have a dark, damp enclosed space that's suitable for growth.
Do you ever worry about air restrictions with that high of a MERV? I was always taught that anything above a 8-10 can cause high limit trips and a premature life for the blower if the customer doesn't check the filter religiously. And know what to look for when they pull their filter out to check. Not to mention general air restriction to the system? I have been in the field for less than a year and am about to finish up schooling, but what I have heard again and again is to buy pleated filters that don't exceed MERV 10. I do llive in MN, so maybe it's different up here? We have far less days per year to even crack windows for fresh air than many other parts of the country. Just curious as to your thoughts, you are definitely more experienced than myself! Thanks
Question, is there a reason to use chemical on coated coils? Most of them are designed for straight water to clean. I work in Commercial buildings and have ran across many Daikin Condensers with the blue coating deteriorated because folks used chemical to clean it. And I found the owners manual and it says water only, no chemical..
But what's the pressure drops on those 4"filters in merv 11 13 and 16? Most systems won't be able to handle them most likely without modifications at least. I think they're a good idea for new installs if they're figured into the tesp and you find it to be allowable
Is there evidence that putting a shop vac on the drain is optimal? I usually recommend that to customers until I can get there and use nitrogen from inside and use (insert preferred chemical treatment) on the drain. Edit: saw the rest of the video of the things you use. Love your packout set up,btw. But if you didn't show taking the A/H panel off and getting those chemicals in the actual drain pan to clear out the build up on that first threaded fitting, please do, so some of these maintenance guys that watch your videos pick up on it.
I use a shop vac on a daily basis for regular maintenance and very rarely do I have issues with call backs. I only use nitrogen if the drain is slow when I'm finished and priming the line or if it's a stubborn clog. (And never on a common stack lol)
While I do use nitro on a drain very rarely, i highly recommend using some form of negative pressure or suction on a drain line as you don't wanna blow a pvc fitting off in a wall somewhere. Uniweld makes an awesome drain cleaner called The Supersuck, or something like that, which works really well.
Yes, I used one for 15 years doing supermarkets. I’ve had a ton of drains that were plugged solid and nitrogen wouldn’t unclog them… but a vacuum on the other end would
@@ThePete2432 did you use an expanding fitting? I'm heading this all off my own internal logic, in fairness. I've just always assumed pushing ~300-~400lbs of pressure through the line is going to sweep away much more build up than whatever negative pressure a shop vac pulls. My brain tells me that water (and Air) always takes the path of least resistance, so with the low pull of the shop vac it can just flow over the top of any restriction. Nitrogen has that better force pressure. Either way I think chemicals should always follow whatever method.
my reasoning is very similar to mordeths up there, the cleaner you put in the pan and ptrap will break down build up over time. i normally tell people nitrogen is a last resort, a chemical, some water down the drain and vacuum has worked 95% of the time. the last thing you need is a homeowner calling back in saying your guy was out here and now my wall and floor are soaked cause you blew something loose or cracked it with too much pressure.
Man I wish I was your helper! Pizza and all! Haha. You do great work and are very smart! I like trying to take my time to do a good job my company I work for is just bigger and doing new construction they just want us to get stuff done asap and I've already been a lead for a year only been doing this for 3. But I don't know anything about service yet only install. I'd love to learn someday
I believe they are power washer attachments. I purchased one that looked like it, hasn't came in yet. I'll try to hop back on and let you know how it works. Xiny Tool Pressure Washer Extension Wand 10 pk is the one I picked up via amazon. Hope this helps if you're still looking!
I have a 62 home with a ton unit 1000sq ft. My garage is 58 with back area, a breezeway added likely after the 90s, and a sun room with no duct. I was told to plug into the house air and put 1vent in the breezeway for the 500 sq ft. Instead I got a friend and we're reinforcing the attic for a new furnace, AC, and duct unit. Any advice?
What experience do you have? It's pretty common over here. I install so It's not something I ever do but I see caps and plugs all the time. Real standard practice.
@@benjaminbills1998 on installs is where these holes actually need to be drilled so you can set the system up properly. Then you put plugs in. That way a tech in the future can test if there's any issues going on. But if you're installing systems and not setting them up, you shouldn't be installing them. Sorry but it's the harsh truth. Too much of this going on and a major majority of problems I see are do to poor installation practices
Don't know about Sparta TN, but in So Central TX, the Puzza Buffet is GONE! ...Now just a relic of the past.. [..Thanks JB, Covid Insanity & your local Dems..]
Doesn't anybody get home inspections before they plunk down multiple hundreds of thousands of dollars on a home anymore? So Mr. selling homeowner, you converted this upstairs into livable space. Is any of that work permitted? Did you consider the cooling and heating capacity of this unit before adding these shitty ducts to that space? Did the selling inspector (if they had one), ask ANY questions? Did he even look at the AC unit and compare it's capacity vs. advertised square footage of the home?
Did you check the electric heat? They might have swapped out the stat and the electric heat is enable in the stat, I have had that happen so many times
Hey man I want to start hvac company myself but Currently I’m in maintenance which I do installs, and work on ac which im really familiar with the systems but not all of them do you suggest I should go to hvac company instead
@@elmerramirez1215 yes work on commercial and residential for at least a few years before doing a one man show! You don’t want to tell the customer you don’t have the experience to do a job for them if it’s a system you haven’t worked on yet. I’ve worked 3 years as a maintenance tech and have now been doing residential & commercial for the last 2 years and am now getting ready to do my own thing!
How different is HVAC in your region of america compared to the north east? Iv been wanting to leave new york and move south and start over there. Any advice?
@@aaronfagerson3656 ok thank you for the advices. Since I've learnt about Goodman at the school I think now it's time to learn on the other manufacturers
Curious, is it feasible to omit the 2nd stage cooling wire on a 2 stage heat pump to get more heat capacity? example.. manJ heat=53k and cool is 29k. Using a two stage 4 ton unit would get me most of the heat and be only a about 15% oversized for cooling that's limited to the 70% stage 1.
You can use a high-end thermostat like the non-entry level Ecobees to control that (please not Nest junk.) The Ecobees allow you to set parameters for when the 2nd stage cool kicks based on temp delta. You could set that to something like 5F and it shouldn't ever hit that if the stage 1 AC can keep up. I do that on my 2S HP, and I almost never hit 2nd stage for AC, but definitely do for heat (I'm near Philly.)
@@btarb242 probly better to size the system for your cooling load and just do a dual fuel setup honestly. Or get electric heat strips for your aux heat. But what I would do is run it by the manufacturer or a rep for that brand but I'm sure they will say it's not advisable. It will depend on the systems performance in first stage cooling. There's performance charts for every unit available
Nothing against Bosch but I’m not a fan of the units me and my boss and his company usually sell American Standard and Rheems our market is a bit upper class though lotta rich people in Boca Raton
Yeah I second special k on that. Many variables determine head pressure and 280 is in Fact quite normal with a low load as was the case in the video. No problems there at all, superheat was low, I would have liked for him to adress that unless the filter was the reason and it straitened out after he changed it,but I don't think he mentioned it. Could be low airflow, not sure what max tesp is on that system but if its .5 then he had way too much and those filters may be the culprit
Lower airflow= higher temp split higher airflow= lower temp split. It's the contact time between air and coil surface Air volume passing over the evap directly determines your sensible/latent ratio so it's very important to have proper duct sizing to have the correct air volume across the coil so you can have the correct amount of dehumidification. Too much air flow=not enough dehumidification and a low temp split so you lose out in both sensible and latent heat removal. Not enough airflow= higher temp split and latent removal for a short time, but it wont cool or dehumidify the space very well because not enough air volume for that space,then that water on the coil will freeze because the refrigerant pressure/temp will be too low/below 32f because it doesn't have enough heat to absorb anymore do to low air volume. Once that happens it snowballs downhill from there and gets worse and worse until you slug your compressor with liquid and greatly reduce its life or kill it. That's why it's so important to keep your air filters changed out frequently. Every 3 months generally. More often if necessary. So the goal for us techs/installers is to set the system airflow so it's in the sweet spot for proper design latent/sensible heat removal. And that changes based on location. Hope that helped a little,it gets alot deeper than that
Trevor .... will eventually change his mind. Once all ghat youthful energy wears off, and he's a little older and needs a little help to get wired instead of being naturally wired.
Zach doesn't love us anymore :( Haven't seen you on overtime in ages bruh! You wanna talk about hack, give me your email and I'll send you photos of the trash I have going on at my house! LOL. 1960s build that had original a/c, unit was last swapped in the mid 90s, but no one has ever fixed the problems. Trunk drops down to a 5x14 and then they ran a 3" pvc sewer line through it. AND the ceiling can't go any lower LOL. Gonna have to get creative here :)
Watching this as a service tech, he knows his shit. I'm agreeing with everything that he says, gotta find that cleaning setup though. He won at Amazon purchases.
I would actually really enjoy working with this guy irl
I’m really new to this channel and want to go to school for HVAC. Really enjoying it so far, no way to get bored!
Down here in Pasco County, Florida, we basically can't offer ductless units anymore. Pasco now requires that we calculate heat loads, draw plans, and so on, so after we pay an external electrical company to run power for a disconnect box (permit requirement) and get a certified state official to perform a heat load calculation (permit required), the equipment is the cheapest part of the whole thing and so a 1-ton unit can cost like $6000. That's like, a whole AC replacement when we reuse ductwork.
What we've offered for the past 3 system-additions is either a mini split or just straight-up upgrade the tonnage on the central AC and add ductwork, and while it wasn't always *cheaper* than a minisplit, it often made more sense than a minisplit so they went with that.
We also actually offered them to befriend a tech in the industry that is willing to do it on the side, because if you get a professional install at just the cost of equipment and his day, it only costs like $2500 max if they use a very high-quality brand like Mitsubishi or Daikin.
I’am HVAC student. Learning a lot from your videos, thank you
definitly a fan of the longer videos! im a helper myself, love watching your content keep it up.👍
The whole getting pizza thing every Friday is very wholesome. I absolutely love it dude
And very fattening as well..!
I like this video. There are so many modern HVAC equipment! It's nice!
With annual HVAC maintenance; when the condenser cabinet is taken apart for service/cleaning it never is the same. The screws are never put in right or they vibrate out shortly. One thing I hate is a condense cabinetr that rattles.
Heck yeah. Love these longer vlog style videos.
Wow I actually remembered you installation on this in the attic running the pipes
those -14 filters are a good series of filter. we use them for our annual maintenance members and they do normally last 12 months
Just because you wait 12 months to change them doesn't necessarily mean they last 12 months lol
A filters life span is based on its exposure to the filtered elements. The 90 day, 6 month, etc is crap. Change the filter when it’s dirty.
You gotta link for that wand you stick in the condenser. And do you have any training resources for those bosch units. My company installs a lot of them and I want to be ahead of the game for when that day comes when they break down
The wholesaler you buy Bosch units should have them in stock or call the factory!
Man knows a good Pizza. i would comment on his work ...but we all know he's good! P.S. I'm with you on the coffee Trevor
Oh my gosh that ductwork !!!!
Some fun, some work! Most sustainable way to do it bro
Watch your videos all the time, I’m in the area & been doing hvac over a year & a half. I have a job rn, but I’m always looking to better myself and my career would love to work for your company, been keeping up with your vid’s for a while commented like a year ago with this same type of comment🤣gonna keep trying. Seems very professional and a great learning experience just had my baby 6 months ago and want her to have a lot & I’ll put in work. I’m located in elkton ky but can travel & will show up as needed every damn day
This was so wholesome. I hope he sees this comment. Congratulations on your baby.
Damn you hiring? Fishing on the clock is my kind of job. My mom lived in Sparta tn for a while, and than she lived outside of Murfreesboro where they did that bar rescue at that biker bar.
Good vid and good luck on your new journey ... Thx for posting ...
If the duct fits on the trunk line. Go for it. Everybody wants to add square footage to their living area. But nobody thinks about how to do it properly. And I want to know who put that duct on there and said. Yeah. It should work.
Great VLOG. Can you do a video on mold inside of the HVAC system? Why mold would develop on the supply duct boots.
or if you in a high humidity environment then you'll have the humidity from the household going into the indoor unit and out the drain line. thus at one point or another you'll have a dark, damp enclosed space that's suitable for growth.
@weiss27md on the inside or outside of the boot?
@@HVACRTECH-83 on the inside, in the fiberglass insulation board.
Sparta nice and fishing in the Calf Killer River, nice.
Vlogs are cool man! Keep them flowing through
Bruh, you got me craving pizza now, and that is especially with jalapeños & banana peppers lmao 🤣!
Saludos from California 💯 your area is very nice💯
You could have just put a zone system gain a half of ton and save the homeowner money . fixed that duct work
Pressures are low on that Goodman package unit
What is that extender thing that you put on the hose? I need one of those.
I love your videos btw
Do you ever worry about air restrictions with that high of a MERV? I was always taught that anything above a 8-10 can cause high limit trips and a premature life for the blower if the customer doesn't check the filter religiously. And know what to look for when they pull their filter out to check. Not to mention general air restriction to the system?
I have been in the field for less than a year and am about to finish up schooling, but what I have heard again and again is to buy pleated filters that don't exceed MERV 10.
I do llive in MN, so maybe it's different up here? We have far less days per year to even crack windows for fresh air than many other parts of the country. Just curious as to your thoughts, you are definitely more experienced than myself! Thanks
Is that the Just Love Coffee in Tomball? If so, that ain't far from where we live.
That's a enjoyable video Zac, nicely done, Trevor sure enjoys his Pizza, i'd like to see him wash one down with a coffee 😁 👍
Wow, Such A COOL Video ! ! !
Hope To get Some Ideas For My House
Hey bro , new guy learning here . :) why do you need to use the foam gun on those special cleaners specifically . xo from ANADA
Hate using chemical on coated condenser coils 😶
I grew up in NY. Pizza Hut is not pizza. Pizza Hut pizza tastes the same as the cardboard carton it comes in LOL
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
A trap that can be taken apart 11:54 and cleaned - YES
Keep glue unions on your truck.
Dude why do amana cases look so good.
Great job Zack large space a few cosmetics to the place an ready to go
Question, is there a reason to use chemical on coated coils? Most of them are designed for straight water to clean. I work in Commercial buildings and have ran across many Daikin Condensers with the blue coating deteriorated because folks used chemical to clean it. And I found the owners manual and it says water only, no chemical..
How do you prevent bending fins with that wand? Bent fins reduce heat transfer from coil.
But what's the pressure drops on those 4"filters in merv 11 13 and 16? Most systems won't be able to handle them most likely without modifications at least. I think they're a good idea for new installs if they're figured into the tesp and you find it to be allowable
What kind of boots are they you are wearing?
Is there evidence that putting a shop vac on the drain is optimal? I usually recommend that to customers until I can get there and use nitrogen from inside and use (insert preferred chemical treatment) on the drain.
Edit: saw the rest of the video of the things you use. Love your packout set up,btw. But if you didn't show taking the A/H panel off and getting those chemicals in the actual drain pan to clear out the build up on that first threaded fitting, please do, so some of these maintenance guys that watch your videos pick up on it.
I use a shop vac on a daily basis for regular maintenance and very rarely do I have issues with call backs. I only use nitrogen if the drain is slow when I'm finished and priming the line or if it's a stubborn clog. (And never on a common stack lol)
While I do use nitro on a drain very rarely, i highly recommend using some form of negative pressure or suction on a drain line as you don't wanna blow a pvc fitting off in a wall somewhere.
Uniweld makes an awesome drain cleaner called The Supersuck, or something like that, which works really well.
Yes, I used one for 15 years doing supermarkets. I’ve had a ton of drains that were plugged solid and nitrogen wouldn’t unclog them… but a vacuum on the other end would
@@ThePete2432 did you use an expanding fitting? I'm heading this all off my own internal logic, in fairness. I've just always assumed pushing ~300-~400lbs of pressure through the line is going to sweep away much more build up than whatever negative pressure a shop vac pulls.
My brain tells me that water (and Air) always takes the path of least resistance, so with the low pull of the shop vac it can just flow over the top of any restriction. Nitrogen has that better force pressure.
Either way I think chemicals should always follow whatever method.
my reasoning is very similar to mordeths up there, the cleaner you put in the pan and ptrap will break down build up over time. i normally tell people nitrogen is a last resort, a chemical, some water down the drain and vacuum has worked 95% of the time. the last thing you need is a homeowner calling back in saying your guy was out here and now my wall and floor are soaked cause you blew something loose or cracked it with too much pressure.
Trap brother trap, humidity, classic Goodman.
Do you run service calls in the middle of the night? What's it like to have weekends always filled up?
Mini splits upstairs 🤙🏻
When ever u see silly string spiders in the attic you know your in for some fun 😂
This was a cool video, def make more of this style video!
Parabéns aos teus vídeos!!! Você trabalha pra valer!!!
Man I wish I was your helper! Pizza and all! Haha. You do great work and are very smart! I like trying to take my time to do a good job my company I work for is just bigger and doing new construction they just want us to get stuff done asap and I've already been a lead for a year only been doing this for 3. But I don't know anything about service yet only install. I'd love to learn someday
Hi good morning
Can duct mastic sealant do you recommend ? Thanks
Is zoning not an option for that package unit?
What’s the hose and hose extender you used to clean the inside of the coil?
I believe they are power washer attachments. I purchased one that looked like it, hasn't came in yet. I'll try to hop back on and let you know how it works. Xiny Tool Pressure Washer Extension Wand 10 pk is the one I picked up via amazon. Hope this helps if you're still looking!
Pizza on Friday is very important.
The condensate drain on the package unit had no trap?
Positive pressure, no need for one.
I have a 62 home with a ton unit 1000sq ft. My garage is 58 with back area, a breezeway added likely after the 90s, and a sun room with no duct. I was told to plug into the house air and put 1vent in the breezeway for the 500 sq ft. Instead I got a friend and we're reinforcing the attic for a new furnace, AC, and duct unit. Any advice?
Mini split for sure
3:06 Only Hacks poke holes in Duct work!!
What experience do you have? It's pretty common over here. I install so It's not something I ever do but I see caps and plugs all the time. Real standard practice.
Oh gtfoh. Canvas connector is my first place I'm going before I drill a hole a hole cut a flex.
@@serialseatsniffer5610 I wouldn't cut flex. That is pretty janky I guess
You obviously have never done a quality and thorough system diagnosis, that’s alright though, not everyone can be good techs
@@benjaminbills1998 on installs is where these holes actually need to be drilled so you can set the system up properly. Then you put plugs in. That way a tech in the future can test if there's any issues going on. But if you're installing systems and not setting them up, you shouldn't be installing them. Sorry but it's the harsh truth. Too much of this going on and a major majority of problems I see are do to poor installation practices
Nice Boss. Get you pizza!!
So what cleaner are you using on that Bosch coil. We were told by our Bosch rep to not use cleaner on the coils.
Viper coil cleaner
what gages are those? they are sick
it would be cool to see a heat load calculation to prove the unit is too small. no pun intended lol
Eesh those bends in that duct, where did ya get the long thin nozzle you skip down inside the units?
Just put a zone board with 2 dampers
Why is there a water heater in the crawl space? Is that up to code for Nashville. I live 20 minutes from Nashville and I've never seen that.
Bet they got a great price
10:56 Did they have a package unit before?
Don't know about Sparta TN, but in So Central TX, the Puzza Buffet is GONE! ...Now just a relic of the past.. [..Thanks JB, Covid Insanity & your local Dems..]
Any issues with humidity control on the Bosch systems?
As with any system, if it's sized, designed, installed and maintained properly there will be no problems with humidity control
Why not separate it and put on zones
Nice hat!
Doesn't anybody get home inspections before they plunk down multiple hundreds of thousands of dollars on a home anymore?
So Mr. selling homeowner, you converted this upstairs into livable space. Is any of that work permitted? Did you consider the cooling and heating capacity of this unit before adding these shitty ducts to that space?
Did the selling inspector (if they had one), ask ANY questions? Did he even look at the AC unit and compare it's capacity vs. advertised square footage of the home?
Pizza Hut is NOT Pizza !!!!! Oh yeah I live in NYC so I guess that is why I say that . LOL
where did you find and what is that extender that you use to clean the inside of the condensers
Yeah that was pretty cool; it must be a late arrival.
Cool gadgets. I wish I could afford
Did you check the electric heat? They might have swapped out the stat and the electric heat is enable in the stat, I have had that happen so many times
Wouldn’t have almost a 20 degree split
@@burnem94 ur mom has a 45 degree split
Where was the Hack job? Except for the flex going to the second floor that looked like crap.
You have to be sponsored. Wth. What is so much better about the Aprilaire brand merv12 or 16 filters? What exactly makes them easier to install?
Hey man I want to start hvac company myself but Currently I’m in maintenance which I do installs, and work on ac which im really familiar with the systems but not all of them do you suggest I should go to hvac company instead
So I can gain more experience in the hvac field and then doit?
Yes i agree on getting more experience 1st
@@elmerramirez1215 yes work on commercial and residential for at least a few years before doing a one man show! You don’t want to tell the customer you don’t have the experience to do a job for them if it’s a system you haven’t worked on yet. I’ve worked 3 years as a maintenance tech and have now been doing residential & commercial for the last 2 years and am now getting ready to do my own thing!
@@JP-zz5rm wow good to hear man and yeah I think that’s what I’m going to do since it does make sense to go prepare thanks man
@@Kilo5910420 thanks man
How different is HVAC in your region of america compared to the north east? Iv been wanting to leave new york and move south and start over there. Any advice?
Learn heat pumps
Yes when I left NY I moved to TX; great place for business!
Baitcasters? DDDDDDDAAAAAAAAMMMNNNNN Pro fishermen too!
as for me in south florida, i'm done with school and i can't find a company to start.
Start your own
@@MrAbYounes need experience. In 3 years if everything goes well I'll start my own
It's good your trying to learn on your own time and dime it will take u far
I recommend books as many as you can afford
@@aaronfagerson3656 ok thank you for the advices. Since I've learnt about Goodman at the school I think now it's time to learn on the other manufacturers
Clickbait title but good video as always
Curious, is it feasible to omit the 2nd stage cooling wire on a 2 stage heat pump to get more heat capacity? example.. manJ heat=53k and cool is 29k. Using a two stage 4 ton unit would get me most of the heat and be only a about 15% oversized for cooling that's limited to the 70% stage 1.
Nope.
You can use a high-end thermostat like the non-entry level Ecobees to control that (please not Nest junk.) The Ecobees allow you to set parameters for when the 2nd stage cool kicks based on temp delta. You could set that to something like 5F and it shouldn't ever hit that if the stage 1 AC can keep up. I do that on my 2S HP, and I almost never hit 2nd stage for AC, but definitely do for heat (I'm near Philly.)
@@bnasty267 That's brilliant - thanks! I was thinking i'd need to add a relay to eliminate stage 2 when in cool mode.
@@btarb242 probly better to size the system for your cooling load and just do a dual fuel setup honestly. Or get electric heat strips for your aux heat. But what I would do is run it by the manufacturer or a rep for that brand but I'm sure they will say it's not advisable. It will depend on the systems performance in first stage cooling. There's performance charts for every unit available
Nothing against Bosch but I’m not a fan of the units me and my boss and his company usually sell American Standard and Rheems our market is a bit upper class though lotta rich people in Boca Raton
Good
Are you just an HVAC tech or a musician? You are in Nashville. Just curious.
It could be both I was and HVAC owner and also played trombone!
I can work together with you
Definitely remove upstairs duct work and add mini split.
279psi is too low for 410a on the head.
Depends on the ambient and newer high seer equipment will have lower head pressures
Yeah I second special k on that. Many variables determine head pressure and 280 is in Fact quite normal with a low load as was the case in the video. No problems there at all, superheat was low, I would have liked for him to adress that unless the filter was the reason and it straitened out after he changed it,but I don't think he mentioned it. Could be low airflow, not sure what max tesp is on that system but if its .5 then he had way too much and those filters may be the culprit
Hi sir
how does the duct work affect temperature split?
High static would over cool the coil
Lower airflow= higher temp split higher airflow= lower temp split. It's the contact time between air and coil surface Air volume passing over the evap directly determines your sensible/latent ratio so it's very important to have proper duct sizing to have the correct air volume across the coil so you can have the correct amount of dehumidification. Too much air flow=not enough dehumidification and a low temp split so you lose out in both sensible and latent heat removal. Not enough airflow= higher temp split and latent removal for a short time, but it wont cool or dehumidify the space very well because not enough air volume for that space,then that water on the coil will freeze because the refrigerant pressure/temp will be too low/below 32f because it doesn't have enough heat to absorb anymore do to low air volume. Once that happens it snowballs downhill from there and gets worse and worse until you slug your compressor with liquid and greatly reduce its life or kill it. That's why it's so important to keep your air filters changed out frequently. Every 3 months generally. More often if necessary. So the goal for us techs/installers is to set the system airflow so it's in the sweet spot for proper design latent/sensible heat removal. And that changes based on location. Hope that helped a little,it gets alot deeper than that
Trevor .... will eventually change his mind. Once all ghat youthful energy wears off, and he's a little older and needs a little help to get wired instead of being naturally wired.
Yes it’s not for him
Don’t wear shorts for sure
👍
I dont see ANY response to feedback. That makes me MUCH less interested in a subscribed channel
0:42 Bro, that turn was absolutely terrible. But gotta get that footage for the video…. One day it’ll end up costing you.
Honeywell Filters are better and easier
i DESPISE the aprilair filters that collapse...
My goodness this dude is clueless
Lol your racist what’s wrong with the black coffee
Zach doesn't love us anymore :( Haven't seen you on overtime in ages bruh! You wanna talk about hack, give me your email and I'll send you photos of the trash I have going on at my house! LOL. 1960s build that had original a/c, unit was last swapped in the mid 90s, but no one has ever fixed the problems. Trunk drops down to a 5x14 and then they ran a 3" pvc sewer line through it. AND the ceiling can't go any lower LOL. Gonna have to get creative here :)