Thank you for posting this! The D-pad goes under the metal ring for anyone watching this, otherwise this was very helpful. Also for everyone's benefit: make sure you feel how the triggers move before you open your controller! This helps eliminate your doubt. You'll have to guide the triggers in a little when placing the back shell back in. Also pay attention to the metal posts where the batteries connect and make sure they don't accidentally slide in on the same side as the right trigger; you want them on the inside of the battery compartment wall (outside of the back shell as it were). Those were just some things I, myself, missed in the video the first couple times through. Learn from my mistakes and save yourself an extra 15-ish minutes, haha.
Also, my first time putting the shell back on: I was a little confused on how the back lines up with the home button housing. It doesn't go under the housing, but lines up flush with backside. I hope I didn't just confuse you by that, lol.
thank you. I've never done anything like this before but became emboldened after seeing some great looking controllers online. I'm afraid I'll F up my controller even with this video but if it all pans out I have some great Christmas gift ideas.
Thank you sir! I have to say I used a lot of my original buttons because most of the ones I got with the new shell, weren't working that well.. (like too much friction etc.) Did that happen to you as well?
***** make sure the metal battery connections are on the inside of where the batteries go and make sure you moved the metal thing with the + and - to the new shell
These controller shells are great! However, the triggers of these controllers shells (and likely ALL 3rd party shells) WILL BE CLICKY/NOISY when compared to how they sounded before the shell change. However there is a simple trick to fix. It's kind of detailed so I won't go into it, but if anyone wants to know reply and I'll explain.
+Aaron Kelly It's simple. The trick is this, a rubber band. What OEM shells have are thin pads (4 in total) that suppress the sound of of the triggers making contact with the back of the shell. Without these pad what's heard is plastic on plastic. Where these OEM pads are, are on the back shell (where triggers come down) and two more on the triggers themselves to suppress sound on the way back up when you let go. HOW TO FIX: Supplies: 1 x rubber band (matching color if you're OCD or something...) 1 x super glue (optionally double sided adhesive tape) Scissors OEM shell for reference Take a good look over of your disassembled OEM controller shell. Looking specifically at the BACK shell focus on the where the triggers would be. You should notice a small pad. A duplicate pad is on the opposite side. Take your rubber band and cut a sliver about the same length of what you've seen. THEN (if applicable depending on width of rubber band) cut the down the middle making two. Looking at your NEW shell you want to replace the OEM with you'll notice what appear to be sunken MOLDS where these "pads" are to be placed. BEFORE GLUING or double sided taping test how well your "new" pads fit with in by placing them there. YOU DON'T WANT IT HANGING OVER THE EDGE! THIS WILL CAUSE THE TRIGGERS TO CLIP IT. You want it as FLUSH as possible to make the triggers seamlessly move up and down. Once you decided your new "pads" are cut right, proceed to glue or tape them down. IF YOU INTEND ON KEEPING THE OEM TRIGGERS YOUR'E DONE AND CAN REASSEMBLE! However, If you intend to do a COMPLETE shell change then there's one more step. Once you've disassembled the OEM triggers take note that there are pads on the triggers themselves TOO! Simply do as you did prior. Cut matching sizes with a sliver of rubber band. Then using the OEM triggers as a guide glue/tape down the new "pads" on your replacement triggers. Finally, reassemble and enjoy your Xbox One custom shelled controller that feels and SOUNDS like OEM. Tips: When screwing new triggers onto the controller make sure that the screws holding the triggers on are screwed ALL THE WAY as for some reason failure to do so impedes the rubber band pads working. BE CAREFUL as to NOT screw them in TOO TIGHT as you run the risk of STRIPPING or BREAKING the screws holes. Also, I recommend that you test the triggers to see if the "pads" work by firmly gripping the controller before screwing everything together and pressing them.
Arian Norouzi I know this is way late and you've already fixed the problem but for anyone else reading this, I was just on Ebay and bought a shell kit. it came with the shell I wanted but they also sent you the screw driver and blue tool. if you're going to buy a shell online see if you can get one with a kit too. also make sure your shell is compatible with the controller you have, some have the headphones jack and some dont.
Thank you for posting this! The D-pad goes under the metal ring for anyone watching this, otherwise this was very helpful.
Also for everyone's benefit: make sure you feel how the triggers move before you open your controller! This helps eliminate your doubt. You'll have to guide the triggers in a little when placing the back shell back in. Also pay attention to the metal posts where the batteries connect and make sure they don't accidentally slide in on the same side as the right trigger; you want them on the inside of the battery compartment wall (outside of the back shell as it were).
Those were just some things I, myself, missed in the video the first couple times through. Learn from my mistakes and save yourself an extra 15-ish minutes, haha.
Also, my first time putting the shell back on: I was a little confused on how the back lines up with the home button housing. It doesn't go under the housing, but lines up flush with backside. I hope I didn't just confuse you by that, lol.
thank you. I've never done anything like this before but became emboldened after seeing some great looking controllers online. I'm afraid I'll F up my controller even with this video but if it all pans out I have some great Christmas gift ideas.
I think I speak for most of us when I say, "LIKE FRICKIN HELL IM RISKING THIS!"
this man is bold!😂✊🏼
Finally I found the total disassembling video.
You put the D-Pad in wrong. You post to put the D-Pad in first then put the metal ring over it.
Don't think it really matters
What was the size of the screwdriver used to unscrew the triggers t6 or t8?
do you not need the tape that is on the original guide button trim
Thank you this video helped a lot my controller Now looks sick! 👍
Beautiful Control!! 👌🤩
How do take the thing off at 6:17? Mine won’t come off and I don’t want to force it
Thank you sir! I have to say I used a lot of my original buttons because most of the ones I got with the new shell, weren't working that well.. (like too much friction etc.) Did that happen to you as well?
Thanks, my new shell is coming tomorrow and I'll be able to do it now.
Good luck man, it really looks amazing
I dont get the last one off before you get the rubber outside and put the buttons inside
Where did you buy these?
This video is very helpful thank you
I only got the top covers how do I put those
Whats the name of this song?
just one screw to access the buttons?
Did it but batteries don't fit. Also, when i put a battery pack in it fits but only works if i keep it plugged in. Help!????
***** make sure the metal battery connections are on the inside of where the batteries go and make sure you moved the metal thing with the + and - to the new shell
And at this moment i knew i missed a screw...
Now i cant get a fucking part on it god damn
These controller shells are great! However, the triggers of these controllers shells (and likely ALL 3rd party shells) WILL BE CLICKY/NOISY when compared to how they sounded before the shell change. However there is a simple trick to fix. It's kind of detailed so I won't go into it, but if anyone wants to know reply and I'll explain.
+Travis Marshall I'd like to know
+Aaron Kelly It's simple. The trick is this, a rubber band. What OEM shells have are thin pads (4 in total) that suppress the sound of of the triggers making contact with the back of the shell. Without these pad what's heard is plastic on plastic. Where these OEM pads are, are on the back shell (where triggers come down) and two more on the triggers themselves to suppress sound on the way back up when you let go.
HOW TO FIX:
Supplies:
1 x rubber band (matching color if you're OCD or something...)
1 x super glue (optionally double sided adhesive tape)
Scissors
OEM shell for reference
Take a good look over of your disassembled OEM controller shell. Looking specifically at the BACK shell focus on the where the triggers would be. You should notice a small pad. A duplicate pad is on the opposite side. Take your rubber band and cut a sliver about the same length of what you've seen. THEN (if applicable depending on width of rubber band) cut the down the middle making two. Looking at your NEW shell you want to replace the OEM with you'll notice what appear to be sunken MOLDS where these "pads" are to be placed. BEFORE GLUING or double sided taping test how well your "new" pads fit with in by placing them there. YOU DON'T WANT IT HANGING OVER THE EDGE! THIS WILL CAUSE THE TRIGGERS TO CLIP IT. You want it as FLUSH as possible to make the triggers seamlessly move up and down. Once you decided your new "pads" are cut right, proceed to glue or tape them down. IF YOU INTEND ON KEEPING THE OEM TRIGGERS YOUR'E DONE AND CAN REASSEMBLE!
However, If you intend to do a COMPLETE shell change then there's one more step. Once you've disassembled the OEM triggers take note that there are pads on the triggers themselves TOO! Simply do as you did prior. Cut matching sizes with a sliver of rubber band. Then using the OEM triggers as a guide glue/tape down the new "pads" on your replacement triggers. Finally, reassemble and enjoy your Xbox One custom shelled controller that feels and SOUNDS like OEM.
Tips:
When screwing new triggers onto the controller make sure that the screws holding the triggers on are screwed ALL THE WAY as for some reason failure to do so impedes the rubber band pads working. BE CAREFUL as to NOT screw them in TOO TIGHT as you run the risk of STRIPPING or BREAKING the screws holes. Also, I recommend that you test the triggers to see if the "pads" work by firmly gripping the controller before screwing everything together and pressing them.
Great vid
Why is their no 3.5mm jack can you use the chat pad
Leo Armitage there's no 3.5mm jack because this is the original Xbox one controller and yes you can still use the chat pad
@@SpaceNigs Hi, what about drilling the Shell in order to make it compatible with 3.5mm Jack? Is it possible? Thanks
what to use if i dont have that screw driver?
Arian Norouzi I know this is way late and you've already fixed the problem but for anyone else reading this, I was just on Ebay and bought a shell kit. it came with the shell I wanted but they also sent you the screw driver and blue tool. if you're going to buy a shell online see if you can get one with a kit too. also make sure your shell is compatible with the controller you have, some have the headphones jack and some dont.
where did u get the shell
Stevie Worley you Can order it from miniinthebox
Why is there no headphone jack
I wanted to this but after I saw everything you need to do I think I'll just buy a custom controller
ps4 is so much easier then this omg
johnnysweet87 Yes, but if you are only replacing the front shell, then the xbox controller is easier to work with
Xbox 1 is harder than 360
XBOX one looks so complicated... I love modifying 360 for my clients better ..
Sam Lugo do you do it for business to
Sam Lugo where do you buy your screwdriverd from/what kits do you use specifically? the ones provided with the shells strip and break way too easily.
Cristian De Anda I get mine off of eBay