I went on a wild goose chase for my Isuzu Rodeo intermittent rear wiper issue. I should have trusted , noticed the snow, and went for the hinge wires first... I forgot to un-stick my rear blade in ice, then tried to wash the windows while driving. Straining motor, no action, then suddenly it broke free. It wouldn't park again, and would wipe constantly and bang on the rest rook for two minutes every time the car is turned on or off. I just couldn't believe the harness would fail without actual movement of the door. Anyway, I replaced motor and failed. Replaced the "alarm" module that actually houses the intermittent relays... failed again. Frustrated, I remembered and re-watched your video... I was so happy when I found a broken wire in that bundle around the hinge... and that harness is a bitch to disassemble on the inside, around the jack storage area.. You really need both hands, and the plastics you have wrangle, damn... But i did it. Soldered in a fix wire, shrink-tubed, taped it all back up, and everything worked perfect with all of the original equipment (sold the unneeded parts on ebay) -- NOTES FOR PEOPLE DOING THIS HARNESS REPAIR (things I've learned): -- On interior plastics, my bottom kick plate screws were rusted to crap, you might need to drill or ez-out the garbage screws. -- You don't need to completely remove the main plastic panel, or remove anything more than the kick-plate. Coax it, pop enough tabs as you need to gain finger access to the holes in the frame, where the connectors live. You're only getting fingers in there anyway... -- You'll need to use both hands in both holes to feel and control the connectors into a place where you can find and press the button that releases. It's like eating runny linguine with chopsticks. Be patient, feel around, find the tab/button. -- There are two of these connectors to release in the frame, then you can easily pull everything through to the tailgate side. -- You don't need to mark them, they use opposite connectors on each side, just get them apart. -- You don't need to take out the whole harness. Pull the chassis grommet out, then pull both grommets through to the inside of the tailgate. You will have to cut a factory tie to really work with it. Stop here, and use the back step of the vehicle as a soldering workstation. -- Push the whole double-ended rubber grommet assembly back as far as you can on the wire bundle, do the job, inspect everything. Mine was hard to find, but there was a broken wire in there. Solder, reassemble.
Awesome. And the extra tips are great for those doing this job. Maybe the last strand in the wire was about to break. Then when the extra electrical stress was on the wire it blew like a fuse. Could be lucky it did rather than burn a motor. Regardless, I'm glad its working.
that's my only theory, the wire was down to a strand or two, and the constant electricity across the park circuit blew it up? Anyway, I'm just glad it works again, thanks!
I pulled the fuse on the wiper motor and it still keeps going. As soon as the ignition turns on, it starts going for about two minutes then stops and won't turn on again. This happened after some repairs to the HVAC control panel.
thanks for that. I have the Australian version of the Isuzu Rodeo and there is no power getting to the rear wiper/defogger (fuse is ok). I need to see if I can work out how to get the wiring harness disconnected from the body of the car to see if that is my issue as well.
I have a 2002 Rodeo Sport and I'm not getting any wiper fluid to the rear window. I also own a 2000 Trooper and it has a seperate reservoir for the rear wiper. I looked everywhere for a sepeeate reservoir on the Rodeo. Does the fluid go to both the front and rear wiper from the same reservoir?
Mone only had one reservoir for both the front and rear washers. It might be pinched somewhere. Fill it right up. Then run the pump for the rear. If the level goes down then likely you just have a cut, damaged or disconnected rear hose line. Run it long enough and you should see fluid on the ground or inside coming from the leak point. If it doesn;t go down but you hear the pump running then maybe the nozzle is plugged.
Sharpy Markers I would have to say it is almost certain it would be the same problem. That hinge opening and closing will eventually cause those wires to break.
Hi, I just had to work on mine today. Problem still exists. It doesn't come in AT ALL. However I get 12 volts out of the system. Unsure if one of the other lines has to feed back into a system that confirms motor placement or not. I also opened up the gear housing and removed the cog that has the contacts embedded into it and cleaned all that and replaced it all. Did you discover that one of those other lines aside from power could also be the cause of it not to activate? I'm going to open it all back up and see if the motor itself activates with power or not. that I didn't check yet.
+Paul Fitzgerald I assume when you say you worked on it that you checked the wires inside the left pillar to be sure none were broken. Sometimes the wire can be broken and the insulation covering the wire looks good. Everything gets hard after many years of age and they do take a beating when the door is opened and closed a lot. I am thinking it is still a wire broken in there- even though there is power going to the back.
CasselmanCanada hey, thanks for the response. Today I took out the motor and ran 12V directly to it, it worked. THEN cleaned the contactors on the center cog, regreased it and put it all back together. Even took out the switch and ensured that was working properly with complete disassembly of the switch itself. Between the rebuild and the switch I had pushed the button and got the wiper to activate and then stop. when I opened it again the contactors were at the same centered spot it stops on when it goes to "Return" so I'm thinking as you are saying that the power line going to the thing is bad. I may just run a straight line off a secondary switch and shoot 12 V directly to the motor so I can just run it and "off" it when it's at it's lowest sweep. But yea since it did work and return to that one spot it seems like the other circuitry is working but what powers it beyond that return position. Also I noticed that the modular power cable has 5 pins, 1 constant 12V and 3 are all grounded straight continuity to ground. So given this fact I was wondering WHERE DOES THAT WIRE GO? Do those wires that come off the return-to-position conductors just go and short circuit somewhere, or do they actually go to some kinda box? I'll pull the wire tomorrow and give it a once over, but I still find it strange that there must be some other box that makes sense of where those other wires are going.
+Paul Fitzgerald You got me thinking that I could still do more research myself. I got out the spare harness I had and made another video of testing the wires for broken connections. I don't know if it will help you but it might. th-cam.com/video/XETxHyIMovM/w-d-xo.html
Glad you got yours fixed. However mine didn't work in wireless mode so repairing broken wires was the correct solution. But thanks for coming over to help.
I have 2002 Rodeo Sport where the rear wiper does not automatically park. Do you think it might be the delay module in my case? Or is more likely it is the park position terminals inside of the motor that has oxidated.
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
I went on a wild goose chase for my Isuzu Rodeo intermittent rear wiper issue. I should have trusted , noticed the snow, and went for the hinge wires first...
I forgot to un-stick my rear blade in ice, then tried to wash the windows while driving. Straining motor, no action, then suddenly it broke free. It wouldn't park again, and would wipe constantly and bang on the rest rook for two minutes every time the car is turned on or off. I just couldn't believe the harness would fail without actual movement of the door. Anyway, I replaced motor and failed. Replaced the "alarm" module that actually houses the intermittent relays... failed again. Frustrated, I remembered and re-watched your video...
I was so happy when I found a broken wire in that bundle around the hinge... and that harness is a bitch to disassemble on the inside, around the jack storage area.. You really need both hands, and the plastics you have wrangle, damn...
But i did it. Soldered in a fix wire, shrink-tubed, taped it all back up, and everything worked perfect with all of the original equipment (sold the unneeded parts on ebay)
-- NOTES FOR PEOPLE DOING THIS HARNESS REPAIR (things I've learned):
-- On interior plastics, my bottom kick plate screws were rusted to crap, you might need to drill or ez-out the garbage screws.
-- You don't need to completely remove the main plastic panel, or remove anything more than the kick-plate. Coax it, pop enough tabs as you need to gain finger access to the holes in the frame, where the connectors live. You're only getting fingers in there anyway...
-- You'll need to use both hands in both holes to feel and control the connectors into a place where you can find and press the button that releases. It's like eating runny linguine with chopsticks. Be patient, feel around, find the tab/button.
-- There are two of these connectors to release in the frame, then you can easily pull everything through to the tailgate side.
-- You don't need to mark them, they use opposite connectors on each side, just get them apart.
-- You don't need to take out the whole harness. Pull the chassis grommet out, then pull both grommets through to the inside of the tailgate. You will have to cut a factory tie to really work with it. Stop here, and use the back step of the vehicle as a soldering workstation.
-- Push the whole double-ended rubber grommet assembly back as far as you can on the wire bundle, do the job, inspect everything. Mine was hard to find, but there was a broken wire in there. Solder, reassemble.
Awesome. And the extra tips are great for those doing this job. Maybe the last strand in the wire was about to break. Then when the extra electrical stress was on the wire it blew like a fuse. Could be lucky it did rather than burn a motor. Regardless, I'm glad its working.
that's my only theory, the wire was down to a strand or two, and the constant electricity across the park circuit blew it up? Anyway, I'm just glad it works again, thanks!
Just change out the module behind glove box and it fixes rear wiper and intermittent front wiper issues. Amazon has it cheap
Yep, that would work every time- even if the wiring was broken back at the door.🙄
Whats that module called?
I pulled the fuse on the wiper motor and it still keeps going. As soon as the ignition turns on, it starts going for about two minutes then stops and won't turn on again. This happened after some repairs to the HVAC control panel.
thanks for that. I have the Australian version of the Isuzu Rodeo and there is no power getting to the rear wiper/defogger (fuse is ok). I need to see if I can work out how to get the wiring harness disconnected from the body of the car to see if that is my issue as well.
I have a 2002 Rodeo Sport and I'm not getting any wiper fluid to the rear window. I also own a 2000 Trooper and it has a seperate reservoir for the rear wiper. I looked everywhere for a sepeeate reservoir on the Rodeo. Does the fluid go to both the front and rear wiper from the same reservoir?
Mone only had one reservoir for both the front and rear washers. It might be pinched somewhere. Fill it right up. Then run the pump for the rear. If the level goes down then likely you just have a cut, damaged or disconnected rear hose line. Run it long enough and you should see fluid on the ground or inside coming from the leak point. If it doesn;t go down but you hear the pump running then maybe the nozzle is plugged.
@@CasselmanCanada
Thanks a million 👍
i have an 02 rodeo, rear wiper won't even turn on, would the problem be in the same area of wiring as yours?
Sharpy Markers I would have to say it is almost certain it would be the same problem. That hinge opening and closing will eventually cause those wires to break.
Hi, I just had to work on mine today. Problem still exists. It doesn't come in AT ALL. However I get 12 volts out of the system. Unsure if one of the other lines has to feed back into a system that confirms motor placement or not.
I also opened up the gear housing and removed the cog that has the contacts embedded into it and cleaned all that and replaced it all.
Did you discover that one of those other lines aside from power could also be the cause of it not to activate?
I'm going to open it all back up and see if the motor itself activates with power or not. that I didn't check yet.
+Paul Fitzgerald I assume when you say you worked on it that you checked the wires inside the left pillar to be sure none were broken. Sometimes the wire can be broken and the insulation covering the wire looks good. Everything gets hard after many years of age and they do take a beating when the door is opened and closed a lot. I am thinking it is still a wire broken in there- even though there is power going to the back.
CasselmanCanada hey, thanks for the response. Today I took out the motor and ran 12V directly to it, it worked. THEN cleaned the contactors on the center cog, regreased it and put it all back together. Even took out the switch and ensured that was working properly with complete disassembly of the switch itself.
Between the rebuild and the switch I had pushed the button and got the wiper to activate and then stop. when I opened it again the contactors were at the same centered spot it stops on when it goes to "Return" so I'm thinking as you are saying that the power line going to the thing is bad.
I may just run a straight line off a secondary switch and shoot 12 V directly to the motor so I can just run it and "off" it when it's at it's lowest sweep.
But yea since it did work and return to that one spot it seems like the other circuitry is working but what powers it beyond that return position.
Also I noticed that the modular power cable has 5 pins, 1 constant 12V and 3 are all grounded straight continuity to ground.
So given this fact I was wondering WHERE DOES THAT WIRE GO?
Do those wires that come off the return-to-position conductors just go and short circuit somewhere, or do they actually go to some kinda box?
I'll pull the wire tomorrow and give it a once over, but I still find it strange that there must be some other box that makes sense of where those other wires are going.
+Paul Fitzgerald You got me thinking that I could still do more research myself. I got out the spare harness I had and made another video of testing the wires for broken connections. I don't know if it will help you but it might. th-cam.com/video/XETxHyIMovM/w-d-xo.html
Need ur help. My tailgate wont open. How can i open it?
Likely you will have to pry the plastic panel off from the inside of the door. Then you can get your hands through the holes to move the levers.
Just replace wiper delay module behind glove box. Fixes everything, all your work was a waste of time
Glad you got yours fixed. However mine didn't work in wireless mode so repairing broken wires was the correct solution. But thanks for coming over to help.
I have 2002 Rodeo Sport where the rear wiper does not automatically park. Do you think it might be the delay module in my case? Or is more likely it is the park position terminals inside of the motor that has oxidated.