I have been using a large speed square with my radial arm saw for some time now. Keeps me from re-aligning the saw back to 90 degrees. Love the idea of the biscuits in the miters.
when your wood didn't fit on the sled, instead of cutting 2 times, you could use your bandsaws to rough cut it along the 45* angle and do the final cut on the table saw. great video!
Dowels are actually better than biscuits. if you're careful, it's possible to use them without a dowel jig, or you can make a temporary jig easily enough.
I would have thought that the blue tape wrapped around the two pieces holding them together while you make the miter cut on the second end would raise the boards just very slightly off of the table, and you would not get a perfect 90 degree cut relative to the face of the frame. I can only assume that, since you've just done it, that this slight difference isn't noticeable.
it does raise them by the thickness of the tape, but this doesn't change the angle at all. The movement is parallel to the blade, so the angle of cut stays exactly the same so long as you have the same number of layers of tape on both ends of the stack.
Matt, I've purchased some rather large prints of art I particularly enjoy (3'x6' and 4'x5') Obviously paying to have these prints framed will be exceedingly expensive. But, would it even be cost effective to do myself. The wood part of the frame isn't so much my concern as is the acrylic. Thoughts, suggestions, tips appreciated.
+Geoff Sergeant 4x8 sheets of acrylic are readily available, although it'll run you $200+ for 1/4" thickness and that's really a bare minimum at this size. You'll need to make the frame nice and deep and plan on something stiff for the backer (like 1/4" ply). Good strong joint construction is a must too. Lot's of options here. Half-lap miters are pretty easy and very strong, especially if you add pins. Bridal joints look nice on a big frame, or if you're feeling really adventurous there's the mitered mortise and tenon (look up the William Ng channel for a great example). You're still looking at a whole lot less $$$$ than paying to have something like that framed. Really just depends on how much you like those prints :)
Depends on how big the piece is. Thinner is almost always better, but too thin won't hold up over time. I guess it's also possible to go so thin that it starts to look odd - like there's nothing there - but that would have to be some crazy priced special order thing.
5/64 should work for anything 16x20 or smaller. I'd leave a larger rabbit in the frame maybe than for thicker stuff, and make sure you have a solid back (not the cheap cardboard I used). You'll be fine though. It's not like pictures take a lot of abuse generally speaking.
Beautiful frame, nicely done!
Great video!! Love the speed square trick!! Thanks for sharing!!
Nice work Matt. You made that look easy.
Well done with lots of tips. Love the Ryobi Biscuit Joiner. Nice to know someone else bought one. Been working great for me for years.
Some great tip on this one Matt. Great job on the frame
I have been using a large speed square with my radial arm saw for some time now. Keeps me from re-aligning the saw back to 90 degrees. Love the idea of the biscuits in the miters.
Looks good! I've never tried the biscuits in the miters. Good idea.
Nice job!! Thanks for the miter square tip!!
when your wood didn't fit on the sled, instead of cutting 2 times, you could use your bandsaws to rough cut it along the 45* angle and do the final cut on the table saw. great video!
Great job Matt. thumbs up
Dowels are actually better than biscuits. if you're careful, it's possible to use them without a dowel jig, or you can make a temporary jig easily enough.
Thanks Ozz. And just ignore the dowel remarks. Chaos paid me a visit....
Looks great!
Good suggestion for a giveaway wife-dividend for putting up with the hobby.
I would have thought that the blue tape wrapped around the two pieces holding them together while you make the miter cut on the second end would raise the boards just very slightly off of the table, and you would not get a perfect 90 degree cut relative to the face of the frame. I can only assume that, since you've just done it, that this slight difference isn't noticeable.
it does raise them by the thickness of the tape, but this doesn't change the angle at all. The movement is parallel to the blade, so the angle of cut stays exactly the same so long as you have the same number of layers of tape on both ends of the stack.
Nice simple frame. Definitely a novice friendly project for someone like me. If you didn't have a biscuit joiner, how would you do it?
oopps. replied to Ozzstar instead of you. See above :)
Where do I buy the plastics?
Matt, I've purchased some rather large prints of art I particularly enjoy (3'x6' and 4'x5') Obviously paying to have these prints framed will be exceedingly expensive. But, would it even be cost effective to do myself. The wood part of the frame isn't so much my concern as is the acrylic. Thoughts, suggestions, tips appreciated.
+Geoff Sergeant 4x8 sheets of acrylic are readily available, although it'll run you $200+ for 1/4" thickness and that's really a bare minimum at this size. You'll need to make the frame nice and deep and plan on something stiff for the backer (like 1/4" ply).
Good strong joint construction is a must too. Lot's of options here. Half-lap miters are pretty easy and very strong, especially if you add pins. Bridal joints look nice on a big frame, or if you're feeling really adventurous there's the mitered mortise and tenon (look up the William Ng channel for a great example).
You're still looking at a whole lot less $$$$ than paying to have something like that framed. Really just depends on how much you like those prints :)
Sounds good, $500 or so for a nice big quality framed art is a bargain.
Do you thick a thicker plexi is better than a thinner one
Depends on how big the piece is. Thinner is almost always better, but too thin won't hold up over time. I guess it's also possible to go so thin that it starts to look odd - like there's nothing there - but that would have to be some crazy priced special order thing.
Tap Plastics have 5/64 and 1/8 www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/acrylic_sheets_p99_non_glare_clear/514. 5/64 is cheaper.
5/64 should work for anything 16x20 or smaller. I'd leave a larger rabbit in the frame maybe than for thicker stuff, and make sure you have a solid back (not the cheap cardboard I used). You'll be fine though. It's not like pictures take a lot of abuse generally speaking.
nice info, but dude... its youtube; 99% of viewers don't have routers and table saws (with sleds).
Wish he would of added a picture instead of a damm reflective sheet. Like wtf