The Ultimate Tubeless Sealant and Injectors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- We've had many questions about tire sealant, and Josh has shown us why we use the pour-in method to apply the Ultimate Tubeless Tire Sealant.
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Founded in Milan in 1917 and now based in Indianapolis, SILCA is renowned for cycling passion. Led by cycling industry leader, Josh Poertner, the brand has expanded from the iconic SuperPista pump to a full range of high-end cycling tools and gear, collaborating with UCI World Tour teams to enhance cycling performance. SILCA combines tradition with innovation, inspiring cyclists to enjoy both riding and maintenance.
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Some questions I have:
1. What is the specified diameter of the carbon fiber particles in suspension?
2. What is the theoretical orifice size that it'll plug up at a given pressure?
3. Is it compatible with your competitor's sealants? Would I need to remove all existing sealant before using this product?
Awesome job Josh. You're relentless in your pursuit of optimizing bicycle products in an eco conscious way. Way to go!
Structural carbon fibers are 5-10 micron in diameter depending on type and manufacturer.. since we are recycling these from racecar, aircraft, and cycling components we have to assume we have a mix. The lengths range form 3 to 9mm and are defined when we chop up the parts before pyrolization.
We have seen 6mm holes seal at 80psi and 5mm at 90psi. For gravel tires we have sealed 8mm punctures at 40psi.
We have not done any compatibility testing with others, but the glycol manufacturers generally recommend not mixing various types of glycol and we know that we are the only ones using this FAA approved environmentally safe de-icing type of glycol, so I would say not to mix them.
@@SILCAVelo ..so 27.5" diameter, 2.5" wide mountain bike tires @25psi would seal real, real well. Arguably 9mm+ holes with minimal sealant loss.
But really..sealant loss comes from tires burping on hard turns for mtb wheels that run 20-30psi. The carbon confetti foaming aspect sounds like it helps keep the tire better 'stuck' to the rim wall while running lower tire pressures..? I wonder..or is it lubricant that helps the tire to slip and cause burpage in the first place.
I’ve been running tubeless for about 4 years with various sealants, usually Stans. I inject it in via the value stem without the core using a 40cc syringe, easy as pie.
The SILCA stuff clogged up the syringe as soon as I started sucking it up. Tried a couple times more and realized that if it clogged up the syringe to fast, any hole from a puncture would do the same.
Good job. A little pain in the ass to setup but definitely more piece of mind, especially on those hard to remove road bike tires.
Thanks Thomas and yes, check out this great test CyclingWeekly did where they compare us to Stan's: th-cam.com/video/s4FHCg72dXQ/w-d-xo.html
Great work in developing this Josh (& the team at Silca). Looking forward to getting my hands on this.
This is how I have have been using Stan's. Put Stan's Race Sealant into the tyre (recommended by Stan's for the same reasons Silca recommends this method as the only way to get it into your tyre). Close up the tyre. Then add Regular Stan's Sealant every few months through the valve to ensure the large chunks (from the Race Sealant) are still in a body of sealant liquid. I even had the thought "Why can't Stan's sell the chunks separately, in a dry format, that you put into the tyre. Then close up the tyre and add the liquid through the valve."
I generally don't drop a drop of Race Sealant when putting into the tyre now. Practice makes perfect.
Maybe another product idea for you Josh 🤷♂️
Sounds great though I have always hated putting sealant in before fully mounting the tyre. OK if the tyre mounts easily but tight tyres are a nightmare. Particularly if you also run tyre liners which make mounting a bit harder.
Yes, it's definitely a tradeoff, you want it to seal large holes, then it's going to seal large holes! Personally I'd say the extra 10 minutes per tire install is worth it for a whole year of improved sealing, but we know that will not be the same for everybody!
Watch the original 16min launch video that Silca made that fully showcases this sealant. He had an easy technique where you bead as much of the tire to the rim as you can before needing tools, pour in sealant, rotate wheel a half turn and finish wrestling the last bit of tire bead to the rim. Zero spills. Best
Just a quick query that I don't think has been asked or discussed, when releasing air to deflate and remove an old tyre for example, will the sealant block the valve core? I read that adding some oil based lube to the valve core helps stop the sealant sticking, but will it stop the sealant for blocking the rest of the valve when deflating? Is it likely that if you left the wheel over night with the valve at the 4 o'clock position, the sealant drains to the bottom of the tyre, and not foam up and block the valve as you deflate?
It shouldnt if you spin the stem to the top while filling/ bleeding
Hey, great sounding product! But what happens when you let the air out of your tire? Sounds like it will clog your valve
this is a problem I've found with inserts
If it’s working on a centrifuge system as the tyre spins, I would have thought that if you have your wheel (a) stationary and (b) with the valve stem at the top of the circle, pointing down towards the ground, when you let the air out, that wouldn’t be an issue?
@@onenotesolo256 I would assume so too. Just wondering how long does one need to wait for the foam to settle down or if there are any special procedures to deflate and avoid clogging the valve. I've had sticky and clogged valves from the regular sealant and can be a PITA to deflate/inflate. Given this can clog 4mm holes in seconds, the little air opening inside the valve has no chance.
Interested in that answer also ....
So the carbon fibers can block the valve opening, but the sealant won't seal it there, it will remain liquid. It might release air slowly in this case, but as soon as you pump in more air, it just blows the carbon away from the hole and all is fine.
After watching the videos for your sealant I will be purchasing some!
I have been reluctant to give the pour in method a try with 26-28mm road tires, but if i can replenish through the valve it will be far less of an ordeal to keep the race tires topped up and ready. Right now it really puts me off when the the race wheels hybernate for a few months and i have to clean and remount everything even though the thread on the tires is still fine. My favourite sealant so far is the one from mavic. 15000km on the front wheel with no flats. I'll still give silca a try.
With tires that small you will definitely make a little bit of a mess, but honestly, having done hundreds of installs over the last year during the development, it cleans up quickly and easily and once you do it a few times, you will do it without mess! Best of luck
I bought in on this tubeless sealant. I now can’t fill my tires up . The sealant blocks the valve stems. After emailing silca without a reply I called. This call was worthless. I was hoping they could explain what I might be doing wrong. Instead I got sorry. So I replace all valve stems only to clog to the point my pump was blocked also.
Do not buy this product!,its not the answer
@@michaelbattin6717 Have you watched the video? They explicitly tell you not to inject it through the valve stem as it will clog up. You need a tested tire and wheel combo where you can be sure to be able to get the tire over the rim without trouble. Then you just leave a gap and pour in the sealant and lever the tire in place. It is not always easy to do when the tire is tight, but you get the hang of it after a couple tries.
The good thing is, that the replenisher can be injected. And that is the whole point here. Get the safest sealant out there and only setup once for the lifetime of the tire.
This is informative but why won’t this sealant plug up the valve core? Will this sealant affect my ability to add or remove air through the valve core? I would think the release of air would act as a “leak” with the sealant filling that air hole. What am I missing?
So the carbon works by forming a sort of mesh over any hole, so it can end up over the valve hole, but as soon as you pump air into the tire, it just blows it off. We worried about this early in the project as high particulate sealants like Stan's race day tend to really clog the valves badly, but in more than a year of testing across dozens of athletes, we've never had a valve clog.
Is this CO2 friendly or will CO2 freeze up the latex?
Saw this in a comparison video and ordered it direct from Silca.
If I’m intending to use it on 23-25mm road tubulars, guessing it’s the recommended 2-3oz?
And if I have valve extenders can I get away with removing only valves?
Hi Josh,
Just a question regarding the amount of Silca sealant required. I'm installing Teravail rutland 700x47 tyres.. would you know how much I have to add????
Many thanks from the UK 🇬🇧
3 months after installing, I'm ready to add replenisher. Oh, the sealant has blocked the valve and I can't deflate the tyre to be able to add replenisher 😃
A good problem to have though.
Try a pipe cleaner, the ones that kids use for projects, coated in synergetic, just ram it through to clean the valve, and then the Synergetic will serve to prevent future clogs.. I also soak my valve cores in Synergetic before installing them as it will very tenaciously adhere to the metal and rubber seal in the core and help prevent future clogging.
Will it plug up my tire pump? I've ruined a very nice silca pump with clogged sealant.
Any sealant can damage your pump, so we recommend 4 tricks,
1. pump with the valve at the 4 o'clock position, this will allow any sealant in there to flow out, but is also high enough that escaping air won't pull sealant into the valve.
2. Install the pump head and break the presta valve seal with a quick/hard stroke of air rather than using your finger or pushing the pump head on far enough to break that seal.. this initial burst of air will help clear sealant
3. Coat your valve core in an oil based lube like our Synergetic, AND coat the inside of your pump head in a little bit of the same. The synthetic oil will act as a contaminate to sealant getting into the pump and keep it from hardening.
4. immediately after pumping, remove the chuck and give 4-5 hard pumps to blow any sealant that did get into the pump, hose, or chuck out before it can harden.
It's my understanding the the Replenisher is the same formula as the Ultimate sealant sans carbon. If the Ultimate dries up into a clump of latex and carbon, how is adding more latex going to change anything of that ball of latex/carbon?
Replenisher is more like a cold weather sealant formulation that has higher solvent/anti-freeze content then normal. The solvent/anti-freeze in the sealant is what dries out, so adding replenisher will replenish the old.. but not if it's dried and hardened, it only works if the original sealant is still somewhat liquid. The best method we've found is to shake the wheel and listen to the sealant.. it should slosh around like water, when it starts to sound thicker, add replenisher.
@@SILCAVelo So, what I saw was incorrect? The Replenisher not the same formula as the Ultimate sans carbon?
This stuff is so good it even seals your valve stems and makes it difficult to pump air into your tires!
Would be great if Silca could come up with a 1 way valve stem of some sort to help prevent the sealant moving down to the valve core.
Reserve Wheels Filmore Tubeless Specific Valves.
Tossed all my Presta valves. They are a product adapted to tubeless use because it was the best option available. Filmore valves were designed SPECIFICALLY for tubeless tires. They work exactly the way you suggest. Check 'em out.
@MrGND123 just had a quick look, will definitely be doing a bit of research for these. Thanks!
what you recommend for inserts?
1- The replenisher is supposed to go directly into the valve, is that it?
2- Why not make a simple syringe system like on the replenisher and built it on the big bottle? I use KOM's syringe exactly to avoid clogging up the valve. With a syringe the liquid goes directly into the tire.
Yes, the replenisher has a tube so that it can be injected directly into the valve from the bottle, but the carbon filled sealant just won't flow through anything that small. Your KOM syringe will work with replenisher, but the carbon sealant will defeat it instantly.
@@SILCAVelo so the replenisher does not have the carbon stuff in it. Got it. Thanks
Hi Silca, looks like a super product for tubeless tyres. However I am using FMB Tubular"s with latex inner tubes, could I just use the replenisher as a sealant?
Yes, the replenisher is injectable through the valve and is a pretty darn effective sealant in its own right!
@@SILCAVelogreat. Im using TUBULARS exclusively as well. Will try the replenisher, which us basically the sealant without the carbon bits right?
Can it be combined with airliners on road bikes then? Seems like an impossible mix.
I saw that Flatout has kevlar and it lasts for 10 years. What's the difference with SILCA?
If I only have access to the replenisher . Is it ok to just fill the new tire up with the replenisher ?
How do I get the Siilca sealer in when using inserts. Tis a dog getting that final bead on with inserts... Is down and dirty, mud wrestling, pour it in and seat the bead the only way?
Bought the large size of the replenisher. no way to inject that stuff without buying an additional injector also no directions for how much to use for dummies like me on the label.
Might be a dumb question, but what happens if after successful install of this sealant, I want to deflate the tire intentionally? Will the sealant plug up the valve then? Do I need to let the tire rest with the valve up in the air?
No, the fibers are so good at plugging holes that they will all stop at the end of the valve and catch sealant there... you can bleed pressure and then pump and the inflation pressure will blow the fibers away.. it all works surprisingly well and easy. If you do get sealant in your valve, let it sit at '4 o'clock' for an hour to let gravity carry the sealant away and then try again.
Josh, I have noticed that my valve appears to be clog inside, it has becoming harder to pump up my tires. any "hack" to fix that up without removing the tire altogether? and how do I avoid the cloging of valve inside? thanks!
We recommend coating your valve core in Synergetic or similar wet lube before installing, you can also coat the inside of your valve with wet lube using a pipe cleaner or similar, this will prevent sealant that gets in there from hardening.
So the replenisher has no carbon in it correct? It’s just the latex only?
Correct, no carbon in the replenisher.
@@SILCAVelo cool that makes more sense. Is your latex concoction better at not clumping up and drying then most brands? It seems you may have solved that conundrum.
@@SILCAVelo would the preferred "replenish" method on a 6-month old sealant filled wheel be popping the bead, pouring in a bit of base carbon formula, sealing the tire then topping off with a small bit of replenisher through the valve? (vs. ending up "too thin" had you strictly topped off w/replenisher on your 6-month old wheel)
If you’ve lost the majority of sealant due to a puncture that won’t seal, can you use the replenisher to add sealant? And btw a small sidewalk puncture on a new Schwalbe pro one won’t seal. Very frustrating
if its still relatively fresh 1-2 months, I would pop the tire bead and pour in more base sealant. Seeing as you lost so much from a puncture...adding excessive replenisher would render your sealant solution too thin. We like that bish thick, ya heard me
Sometimes my tires don’t set so easy on the rim. I usually set the tire on the rim first than adding seal trough the core. So if I unbead the tire add sealant and tire won’t set what is my solution?
I am trying to make the switch from another brand and really wanna make this work. Thank you
If you set the tire then break just a small part of the bead you will be able to pour the sealant in the tire. That should make it pretty simple to seat with just a floor pump. If it is still giving you trouble, a quick compressor blast should get it no problem.
How much sealant do i have to use on my 28mm road tires (31mm measured) ?
2-3oz should be good
@SILCAVelo where can i find this information?
Transfer to new tire?
I live in SoCal and can ride year round. My back tire only lasts 3 months. Can I take the stuff out of the worn out tire and put into a new tire?
Absolutely, just add some replenisher to it when you do as it will begin to thicken in that amount of time and will need replenishing.
Does Silca state the practical temperature range for the sealant? It gets fairly cold here in the mountains during the winter and I've had to switch sealant brands once because the previous one wouldn't set / congeal / whatever you call it at -5 °C
We've tested extensively down to 10 degrees F (-12C) with very good results. We've tested lower in the lab, but not under actual riding conditions, so currently we are saying functional to 10F/-12C though it likely will go lower.
Non-injectable is a deal breaker for me. Pity because it looks like a great product.
This is unfortunately a situation where you can't have the one without the other.. something has to give and for us that was making a sealant with significantly improved sealing action at high pressures or for large holes, but it requires a down payment of 5 extra minutes during the initial install.
Guess this means I have to learn to add sealant thru the pour method. All the years of sealant use never did the pour, but this product looks promising enough to give it a go.
can you demo on a hp, road tire
What valve stem do you recommend or will Silca be releasing valve stems on to the market soon?
We actually sold valves and tape for a few years but so many wheel companies started requiring use of their own tape and valves that we stopped. Honestly, there are only a few companies that make all the stems in the first place and I have not found any of the 'revolutionary' new design valves to really do anything all that much better. I will say that we do sell valve cores, the really nice ones made in Italy and that's an area I feel does make a difference over time as they are just better machined and finished from solid brass than some of the ones from Asia. If you coat your cores in Synergetic before installing, they will prevent fouling from sealant.
Is it good to use on road bike tyres? I run 28mm gp5000 str?
I have the vittoria Air-Liner foam inserts in my tubeless, will the Silca Sealant work with those or will it attach/soak in to the inserts?
I would replenish more frequently with liners as they add surface area to capture the sealant.. but the sealant will not soak into the liner. We recommend adding an extra ounce of sealant if using a liner and then replenishing more frequently.
Do you have to use the replenisher every 3 months, or can you just add more sealant every 3 months instead?
What maintenance do you recommend at the end of the 12-18 months?
break it all down and clean it all out
Damn I didn’t buy the replenished now I have to pay shipping:(
On a scale of 1-10 how bad is this for the environment?
Far better than most.. so we use organic latex from Vietnam, eco-friendly propylene glycol as an anti-freeze, and the carbon fiber is fully recycled from racecar parts and bicycles that otherwise would be landfill. Also ammonia and pthalate free.
And pray you don’t spray 😂 (when trying to seat the tire) but seriously I can’t wait to demo this product on my channel.
LoL I'm 99% sure it's Tufo Carbon sealent made in Czech republic. Tufo has been selling it for years.
I just ordered some and will see what it's made from, thanks for the tip!
@@SILCAVelo tufo carbon sealant appears to not actually contain carbon fiber and is merely marketing to indicate its supposed to be safe for carbon rims
4 ounces of sealant weigh more than a tube. Tubes = no mess. Tubes can be patched, if you want to patch the tubeless tire you have to clean out the sealant which means you have to add new sealant at a much greater expense. You know, changing a tube is not a problem, why did the industry try to create a solution to something that was easier and less expensive? I have never had a road tubeless tire seal even the smallest hole in years of trying and I've used every brand out there. I'm done trying.
Sounds like you've had far more trouble with tubeless than I have. I wouldn't have tried something for years if it wasn't working.
My experience has been the opposite though - have never had a puncture with road tubeless that didn't seal itself, or with the help of a dynaplug. It's great to not have to faff with changing tubes on the side of the road, halfway into a century. I got so tired of helping my kids fix their flats that I switched them to tubeless too.
Your experience matched mine (this is Josh) up until about 2 years ago. The key changes here have been in tire casing design which are increasingly easier for sealants to seal, new rubber additives doing the same, and more importantly, wider tires and wider rim bead seats allowing for lower air pressures. I commute to work through downtown Indy (terrible roads) on 32mm Conti GP5000 TL on 3T Discus 45/40 rims.. those are super fast, very light tires, but the 32mm measures 36mm on that rim, meaning I run them at 46/47psi. I've counted 4 punctures over the last year that I didn't even know I had until I got where I was going, and I had another large glass puncture that sealed at the roadside when I removed the glass after running over it. Modern road tubeless has become quite good, and with all of the brands investing 100% of their R&D into tubeless currently, the directionality into the future is quite clear.
Those are all good points, it's messy and sometimes it doesn't work. If roads are wet, the sealant keeps dissolving and won't seal. However, when it works, it's awesome! You don't even notice when you get small punctures. The big ones for me are added comfort at lower PSI which translated into free speed. For applications like MTB, tubeless is the way to go. No sane MTBiker uses tubed tires these days. Now with gravel tires getting bigger and bigger, tubeless is also the way to go. In pretty much all cases its lighter too. Road and gravel need 50-60ml of sealant, the lightest butyl tubes are 100g, so you are saving some weight. With the new hookless wide rims for road bikes, tubeless is also the way to go. My front tire has ~6000 km and never had an issue. The seal is so good I only put air once every 4 to 5 rides, the same as I would with inner tubes. The key is good quality tires that are hookless rated and good quality rims designed specifically to be run tubeless.
I'm calling BS on this. Not even gonna try to put lipstick on this pig. The only reason I'm really good at fixing flats is because I have changed or helped change all of my buddies flats. I have never had a flat riding right beside them on the same roads since I've run tubeless. Every single one of the guys I ride with have had multiple flats. Last year during 1 100 km group ride I fixed 3 flats - 2 on the same bike. Two weeks ago for the first time a friend noticed a puncture in my rear tire at the bottom of a steep climb near the end of our ride. My friends were astounded that I finished the ride w/o repairing or even adding air.
Tire sealants work and I'm about to mount new tires (see previous sentence) and try the Silca after having great success with Muc Off. The Silca will give me a greater level of assurance. My only problem is figuring out how much to put in a GP 5000 28 road tire.
@@bencartwright1537 "I wouldn't have tried something for years if it wasn't working" what kind of comment is that. Back when I used to be a mountainbiker all I would use is tubeless. When it came to road tires I gave it a good go trying different sealants and tires and wheels. That's why I tried it for years. Sure maybe a thorn or something very small will possibly seal but the flats I got the sealant just kept spraying out and to me did not look large enough to put a plug in. So I patched them on the inside when at home. The mess I endured on the side of the road ruined many rides. The hours upon hours of screwing around with the whole setup is bullshit. Tubes are much easier and cheaper and that's the end of story.
Josh! I bought in on this tubeless sealant. I now can’t fill my tires up . The sealant blocks the valve stems. After emailing silca without a reply I called. This call was worthless. I was hoping they could explain what I might be doing wrong. Instead I got sorry. So I replace all valve stems only to clog to the point my pump was blocked also.
Do not buy this product!,its not the answer
Sorry for your valve clogging experience, but this is factor for all sealants of all brands and not just ours. A quick google search finds thousands of articles and forum threads on Stan's and Orange seal and all the other brands clogging valves and how to fix or prevent it. Our method is to coat the valve core with Synergetic or similar wet lube before installing and to put the valve stem at the 4 o'clock position for a minute before pumping. You can also spray a little wet lube into your pump chuck which will keep any sealant that escapes from hardening.