Chevrolet Pickup Door Hinge Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2012
- Door hinge restoration on a 1947-54 Chevrolet pickup, including removal, rebuilding and re-installation of rebuilt hinges. Step by step procedure on how to remove, rebuild and re-install the pickup door hinges, presented by Dr. J's Restoration Rx and The Filling Station.
Altman Door Latch installation links: talk.classicparts.com/showthre...
www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/sh...
drjsrestorationrx.com/ 541-405-8286
www.fillingstation.com
The Filling Station: www.fillingstation.com , or 1-800-841-6622 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
you might very well be a Dr with as informative and clear as you make these videos! thank you!
Thanks!!!
Brilliant video. This channel is a great resource when you're fixing things & got stumped. I actually had a bit of trouble finding oversize hinge pins & was about to make something. This is better.
Jerry, if I was a sculpter I'd start on statue of you.
Great work & you went to an awful lot of trouble of making it perfectly understandable & you left nothing behind.
Hitting subscribe as a result of you making good sense, good information & explained perfectly.
Ya Nailed it!!!
Thanks! Glad to be a help!
Great! This helped us with our 1948 Chevy pickup, short bed. Our hinges were extremely hard to remove the pins. Pins were frozen and the only way to remove them was drilling the core of the pins in steps. That said we had to cut the pins just between the support and the hinge arm, destroyed the washers that are welded between the arm and support that take up the gaps since the support inner spread is greater than the arm thickness (arm is about 1.5 inches, the support inner spread is about 2.3 inches.) Upon assembly I cut and shaped two .400” shims and installed one on either side of arm. The shims will be bolt hole aligned and sport welded to the support inner surface.
Nice work! If the gap isn't too wide, you can put the frame in a good vise and squeeze the sides of the frame to make the gap snug to the hinge bar. I often have to do this when I rebuild hinges and most used hinges have a gap between the frame shims and the hinge bar.
Great video
Thanks!
Can I put the springs in after the pin is in? My pins are frozen and I just want to add the springs but the springs aren’t reaching the hole
No, the springs are inserted just before you marry the hinge bar to the hinge frame, then the pin is inserted, like I show in my video.
Thank you for taking the time to make the video not only was it very clear but your explanation was very well done thank you
Thanks!
good info - well explained and illustrated - gives me a place to start on my pickup - thanks
Thanks!
Great video! Well done!
Thanks!
very helpful video. Answers my questions, mostly. On one of the parts store sites (classicparts), they list a Door Control Spring 47-54 which I did not see in your video.
I normally just replace the door relay with a new one.
Thanks! It was my first effort, so a little rough, but I will be doing more videos soon and hopefully will be better in the future.
Hi Bill, I found two installation articles online. Just Google "Altman Door Latches" and look at the one from Classic Trucks. Also found one at jalopyjournal. See links above. I would like to try installing these on a truck to get the experience. Might look into them on this 51 Chevy truck I am working on.If I do, I will probably make a video on the installation.
There are left and right side springs on both upper hinges. You can only get them installed correctly if you have the left and right side springs in the correct place.
There is really no room to add any kind of washer to the spring because there is little room for anything else between the bar, spring and housing. You could counterbore the hinge bar on a milling machine to accept the washer, but I found that welding up the hole and re-drilling it is easier. MIG welding this hole provides a harder metal surface than the original metal. It's just more difficult to re-drill the hole, so use a good sharp 7/32" drill bit.
Hi George,
Thanks for the nice comments. You can get the control springs at The Filling Station, part #CD-6 for $7.50/pr. You need two pair for one truck (just used on the upper springs). Call 1-800-841-6622.
springs are only on the upper hinges
Fantastic video. Thanks for all the great info. I keep finding pin kits that use bushings, (to be somewhat of a consumable) rather than an enlarged pin. Can you provide a link to where to find the ones you use. I would love to buy them from your company.
The part number for the oversize pin at The Filling Station is GM-1081 and the springs are CD-6. You would need four pins and two pair of springs for one truck. Springs are only used on the upper hinges.
You said left and right springs - is it left and right or upper and lower?
Thanks for the video
Only the upper hinges have springs and there are left and right side springs for each upper hinge.
Hi Brandon,
Thanks for the nice comments! You can get the oversize pins at The Filling Station, part number GM-1081 for $1 each. Call 1-800-841-6622. Can't post links in these replies, so I will try to put the link in my description above.
Jerry, thank you for the info . It looks like the driver side has new hinges installed . Passenger side has not. I removed the weatherstripping from dr side that helped it some. Could it have the wrong hinges ??
Not likely, the door weatherstrip is the likely culprit.
On the hinge spring, since breakage or falling out seems to be a very common problem, and a contributor to more issues (vertical cowl creasing) on these trucks, any thoughts on adding a washer to the outside of the springs and weld them so they cannot come out of the spring bracket?
The springs falling out is usually caused by the hole in the hinge bar wearing from age. When I restore hinges, I plug-weld these holes and re-drill them so you have new metal for the spring. Also, you have to check the inside of the hinge frame because spring wear on the oblong hole in the frame can exacerbate this issue and you would need to weld up the worn area and grind it smooth.