Want to thank you for all your help, got my rig all finished, no more coolant leaks, and fired up the first time. Though I forgot initially to plug in that resonator box to the throttle body tube, it was really lumpy and would die, I thought oh crap I screwed up, once I reinstalled it after realizing the mistake, fired up and idled just fine.
What are your thoughts on eliminating the fan and putting an electric one instead? I did one years ago, like 30 on my El Camino, but it’s been so long, so many options. Any considerations to factor in, such as a double fan or single unit? I have it almost all torn down, need to take the crankshaft pulley off, then the cover to expose the timing belt, etc. Thanks!
@@straightto8 I did install an electric fan. The biggest problem I had was it kicking on at the proper temp. I found a backup junk yard thermostat housing I could use as a guinie pig and drilled/tapped a hole in it for a thermistor and that did the job.
@@markfothebeast Okay, don’t sound too bad, I’ll explore some options. It was a huge pain getting the fan off, whomever out it on tightened the nuts so tight, had to use a vise-grip to get it off, two nuts got even more mangled, but I can get replacements. The 10mm wrench I had wasn’t helping on the two that were mangled some already, I just finished them off, but happy they came off.
This was a very useful video for me to work out how to get the timing correct. However I need to remove my fuel injector pump. So you have any videos of this?
I have another question, and I appreciate your taking the time to answer my previous questions. I’ve got the cams set to the proper position, and the crank is lined up accordingly. So once I slip off the belt, in order to change the water pump, and I put it all back together, and I get the belt back on and I go rotate the engine two times to get to the S mark. The point of this is to ensure everything is lined up by rotating the engine twice and if it’s still in the proper position than I’ve accomplished the task properly? I just want to double check with you, I don’t want any hiccups, want to get it right the first time. TIA
@@straightto8 Yes. Just to ensure that your timing marks are all lined up and didn't slip off a tooth or so. I believe the tensioner pulley is tightened after everthing is set. You should be able to spin the engine and triple check everything before final assembly. Definitely don't want to have to do it again but I did because the cheap Amazon belt I bought had brpke. Also, check if your belt is directional (marked with arrows in direction of rotation). Neither belt I installed were directional.
@@markfothebeast Thank you sir, i got it all now, I was going to ask you something else, ugh getting old sucks, lol. Oh yeah, was thinking about deleting my AC, when it comes to evacuating the Freon, is there a good way to do so? Or can I take off the compressor and the cooler for it w/o getting Freon everywhere? Any recommendations regarding brakes, did you upgrade yours at all, or just stock?
@@straightto8 I just pushed the schrader valve on the line and let it rip but it had no pressure. Not environmentally friendly and unsafe to be close by if it does. I haven't had a vehicle that I've removed the AC on that had pressure so I'm not sure how it's safely removed and so on.
@@markfothebeast Yeah, think this still has juice in it, I’ll just clean it, and the bracket and put it back for now. I’ll have to read up a bit and see, maybe do it after winter. It works good, but I never use it, I just stick around my torn and the windows down work just fine. Thanks again!
@@markfothebeast Thanks for the additional information regarding the AC. The question I remembered I wanted to ask was about the oil pan gasket. Have you replaced yours at all? I’m looking at it, looks as though I might be able to drop the oil pan without having to lift the motor out just a little bit. But I’m not quite sure that was what I wanted to ask you about. I purchased this Sportage from my neighbor for $700 bucks, was leaking at the valve cover and the oil pan. The shop gave her an estimate of $900 to repair it, valve cover was $300, oil pan was $600. I did the valve cover gasket, did a tune up while I was at it, spent like $125 bucks, put new pcv valve, coil packs, plugs, and wires while I was at it. No leaking at all from valve cover, the oil pan still leaks a little bit, maybe about a quarter of a quart a month if that While it’s minimal. something I want to fix, just to keep things good.
Hello, must be a stupid question because I think I am seeing what it seems like the crack pulley/harmonic balancer is held on by 10mm bolts is that correct? Meaning removal of the big crank bolt is not necessary as in most vehicles with timing belt. Thanks
Ótima explicação mestre , só que a minha é kia sportage motor DOHC 2.0 16V ANO 97/98 GASOLINA, rebemtou a correia dentada e estou tendo uma certa dificuldade em travar as 2 engrenagem de comando e colocar a correia, caso o amigo tenha uma luz me fale. obrigado. Gino
Probably easier to pull the bottom radiator hose and dump most of the coolant 10 minutes beforehand. Nobody sane is going to put a new water pump on then fill it with old coolant. Might as well drop the whole lot out.
cutwormsmith Correct. This is what is known as a "non-interference" engine. If the belt were to break the pistons would NOT collide with the valves. Fortunately, DOHC 2.0L Sportage engines were designed with "fly cuts" in the pistons to accomodate valve clearance. The older SOHC Sportage engines are an "interference" engine, however.
cutwormsmith There are a few bugs that are fairly common with these vehicles. I managed to track them all down. The Kia-forum. com is a good community to work out common issues. I'd suggest any 1st gen Sportage owner to read through or join for any additional help. I do have to say though, my Sporty has been bulletproof since some repairs and modifications. Please view my other Sportage videos if you are interested.
Kia-forums.com - go to Kia Sportage section, 1st Gen, and under "Stickies" you should find a link to the ENTIRE factory service manual. You may have to register for the "Stickies" section to appear.
In the middle of doing this now. I didn't notice how my replacement belt did not have lines marked on it. Any idea how many teeth between each mark? I should have counted before removing the belt. Live and learn....
Keep the pulleys on the lines centered. When you put the belt on and add tension just rotate the engine to ensure that the camshaft pulleys line up. These lines on the pulleys themselves are for the timing. You'll notice immediately if you're off a tooth.
makes sense. i just recall on other engines having belt marks and counting teeth between timing mark in order to be truly foolproof about being accurate. this is only the second belt i've ever done and i tend to overthink everything.
Do you have any videos that include the serpentine/alternator belt? I am having some issues, in other words I am crying on the side of the road for the upteenth time
Good day Sir. i plan to do overhauling job on my kia but i don't have manual as a guide. I hope you are kind enough to share with me your manual or the any download link so I can download the manual. Thank you sir and God bless you.
Kia-forums.com - go to Kia Sportage section, 1st Gen, and under "Stickies" you should find a link to the service manual. You may have to register for the "Stickies" section to appear.
One more thing I should add; go to the the Kia Forums website, go to the "Sportage" section, and at the top of the page in the "Stickies" section you can download the service manuals for free.
Hello sir, Is it any cam position sensor or any sensor near the belt? One of my friend changed his timing belt and now the car wont start. Regards, Robert B.
Robert Bakos Hi Robert - It's on the rear of the cylinder head on the drivers side camshaft. The wiring can also be problematic. The wire harness on top of the engine that runs behind the cylinder head has caused me issues. -Test compression (valve timing may be off) -Check for spark -Test the crankshaft position sensor
+Rosemary Avalos It appears your timing may be set wrong (belt slipped or improperly aligned). Please join the "Kia Forum" for further help under "1st Gen Sportage". Guess number 2 could be a wiring issue. It is fairly common for the wiring to get slightly bumped and lose connection to a sensor. The crank sensor would cause no start but I would check the orientation of the belt.
I won't be removing the injectors any time soon. But I can give you a bit of advice. There's not much to the process. Just remove stuff strategically... Generally every nut or bolt is 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. I recall that you'll need to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold because these are in the way. Remove everything that you need to access the injectors. Disconnect the battery and mark your harness connectors (fool proof - different types of connectors to each sensor). Strategically sort out the removed parts with labels and mark vacuum hoses. Remove everything that's in the way of the injectors. You can't hurt much unless you break a bolt or strip threads. The sensor connector locks are easy to lose - be careful. If you need a gasket for the intake manifold or throttle body you'd better have them on hand. The injectors simply pull out of the injector rail. Not much too it. Gently twist around and slowly yank. The fuel pressure will drain from the fuel rail so be careful. You may want to replace the injector O-Rings as well. They look like a little donut. These are a very unusual style of injector. This vehicle is the common victim of electrical gremlins. The wiring is very poor as well as the connectors. Be careful with the connectors. If you are having potential injector issues I'd buy the $10 - $15 injector tester lights to verify there's current to each injector.
hey man i have an 01 im assuming yours might be a little older? anyway i was wondering if you knew with the 01 do you have to actually undo the power steering pump and move it out of the way? i dont know much about this car stuff and keep getting discouraged but its like a fever because i just want to keep going back and trying it.. thanks
I have a 2002. I never removed the power steering pump once. There's two 14mm bolts that need to be loosened to remove belt tension. That's all. I've deleted the A/C, clutch fan, and idler pulley so I don't have many accessories in the way.
It could take anywhere from 5 to 20 hours. I've replaced two Sportage timing belts and the second time took roughly 4-5 hours with beer breaks in between.
@@markfothebeastGot 235k on mine, just replaced the gasket for the water inlet pipe, I honestly thought that was the leak. It was, but before I put the rest of the crap on, I filled the system halfway, then the leaking started again, not at the inner pipe, rather it’s the water pump. I was honestly hoping that it wasn’t the water pump, but it is. I’m not thrilled about doing this job, but your video has helped me greatly, thank you for your efforts.
@@markfothebeast Your video gave me a confidence boost, that’s for sure! I just felt defeated after all the efforts, waiting on parts to fix the leak from the inlet pipe, replaced the thermostat, had already put in a new radiator, hoses and clamps. Had this little leak I couldn’t readily track down, traced it initially to the inlet gasket. After putting in a bit of coolant to check for leaks, the darn thing started leaking some, used my iPhone to video things and seen where it was coming from, the two leaking deceived me to think it was just the one item. Anywho, I was having issues getting the nuts off the fan, they are 10mm but the access is tight, I guess I need a longer wrench to give me more leverage. I only paid $700 for this, been driving it for a few years with few issues, so with the parts being so cheap, why not fix it.
Hey I have another question so frustrated and worried I don't know if I messed something up but these timing marks aren't lining up they're close but not perfect is it a big deal? God I messed some shit up honestly I can truthfully say though if this thing is done for I did pretty damn good for a minimal skill level in cars and I will never purchase a vehicle again where it requires you to remove so much stuff to get to the belt you honestly might as well remove the damn engine too
No worries. If the markings both appear vertical and the crankshaft marking is also vertical, give it a shot. Turn the engine over a few times by hand and check that everything is lining up after about 6 crankshaft rotations. If the timing markings are off, you're engine won't blow up or anything crazy. That's the nice part about this vehicles engine. It'd just run out of time or not run at all and you'd have to adjust the belt. But don't worry too much. It's a little obvious when it's off a tooth. But you do need to crank the engine over to get the slack out and double check timing marks.
@@markfothebeast it's weird on the camshafts there is also a letter S too.. now yes the marks are vertical they are all in the general direction of "up" but what I mean is just the marks are about 1-2cm off from the indentations the "I" is to the right a little bit and the "E" is to the left a little bit.. what if they just never line up though do you have to individually adjust the cam and crank separately? Thanks for the reply I do appreciate it it's pretty helpful to have a response to this being that the video is 3 years old haha
@@MCrelationz Sounds about right with the markings I believe. And yes, all camshafts have to be in that position with the crankshaft marking facing up. It literally requires at least 2 people. Get it in to position and turn the engine a few times and things will make a little more sense. It's the slack in the timing belt that may cause some confusion.
@@markfothebeast well unfortunately I do not have 2 people so I'll be trying to finish this all myself. When I turn each cam individually they "jump" a couple of inches and they literally will not go into the position they're supposed to go into and they literally never line up together it's weird
Here is my Kia experience. Anyone in my position has encountered the same thing from Kia. If you cannot supply them with up to date maintenance records on your vehicle they will not cover it. So for instance, if you change your own oil you're screwed. Might work if you saved all your receipts but very few people are in the habit of saving receipts of them doing their own oil changes. This ploy Kia uses is well documented if you want to look it up, I have, and it’s out there. Also my car would be covered under the SC147 recall as the symptoms of my engine seizing up (engine needs replaced) followed the exact same symptomology as those the manufacturing defect notes in the recall. The recall notice even appears on my Carfax report. Again you can find all the recall information online. The reason my car isn't part of the SC147 recall according to Kia is because it is MPI instead of GDI. All the rest of the engine is the exact same, 2.4L theta II. Kia says that because my car uses a different kind of fuel injection method that it cannot be affected by the metal filings left in the engine block which is what the SC147 recall is all about. That's totally absurd on its face but that's Kia's position. The vehicles Kia did recall was done after many government threats as well as numerous lawsuits brought by disgruntled Kia owners for which there are many. Kia's mother company, Hyundai actually recalled their vehicles for the same problem immediately when the issue was discovered. It took Kia several years later to admit to the problem and issue a recall even though they were well aware of the problem. Where was Kia's concern for people being killed due to this manufacturing defect? A car having its engine seize up on the interstate would be something that would concern most companies immediately but not Kia. Unless Kia completely changes the way it does business they will continue to cost consumers thousands of dollars for defective cars and probably end up killing people due to their own negligence. I had to argue, write emails, file complaints with various entities, etc just to get Kia to actually LOOK at my engine at no cost to me to determine the how and why of the engine failure. Kia refused to cover my car even though it is under warranty and furthermore refused to even LOOK at my car to see what caused the failure. I'm still waiting for a callback from Kia with their assessment. Kia actually agreed to take my valve cover off to take a look at my car once I complained as high up as I could to Kia. This was after several months of my car sitting dead on the Auffenberg Kia lot in Metro east St Louis. Kia actually told me I'd have to pay $1500 up front to have my engine failure looked into initially. My constant pressure on Kia finally got them to say they would take my valve cover off for no fee which costs Kia less than $50 in labor. Kia had no desire whatsoever to know what caused my engine to seize up. Their ONLY concern was to avoid any acknowledgement of any responsibility or liability. Kia already knew what caused the engine to fail. The same thing that happened to hundreds of thousands of the same engines made by Kia and Hyundai. It was the exact same problem as the Kia SC147 recall. Taking the valve cover off will not help. There was no oil leak. No oil smell. Never any indication of any problem with the valve cover. It's simply a ploy for Kia to say we looked at your engine and it's your fault. Who would trust their assessment at this point anyway? I'm out thousands of dollars I still owe on a car without a working engine. Don't you think any car maker worth a darn would want to know why one of their vehicles engines just seized up on the highway? Kia's been super lucky so far no one has died due to their negligence. Additionally a co-worker of mine had a problem with his Kia and will not buy one again either. For his Kia the car required a specific oil filter made and installed by Kia and if that was not used the engine fails. He was never told this when he purchased the vehicle. His insurance successfully sued Kia for over $7,000 for his engine failure. Unfortunately my insurance doesn't cover mechanical issues. Ever wonder why your Kia never quite gets the gas mileage it was rated to get? Kia has also paid out for a class action lawsuit because they lied about the MPG of many of their models. The very MPG rating that many people base a large percentage of their purchase decision on. Yeah, Kia lied about that too but kept it hush hush. You can find the information online if you look for it. I had my car into the dealership (Auffenberg) several times before the engine failure telling them something is bad wrong with the car. The Kia service department ran every kind of computer diagnostic and could find no reason for the problems which included knocking, major loss of power, major loss of fuel economy and car dying at both idle and speed. Check engine light was always on and every sensor it said was malfunctioning was replaced and it didn't help. Unfortunately I could not leave my car with Kia. Kia wouldn't supply me with a free rental. They said it was against company policy. My step daughter was dying needing a second liver transplant as all this was going on and I couldn't be without that vehicle. With only one vehicle (other than the Kia) I wouldn't be able to get to work or my step daughter wouldn't be able to be cared for properly. I told Kia this and still they refused to get me a rental while they actually got to the root of my car problem and addressed it. Instead they said sorry to hear that, we can't find any problem with your car. They actually let me leave with a car they KNEW was dangerous and about to fail. They didn't care that my family was going through a serious medical situation with my step daughter and the car behaving as it was only increased the stress on my entire family during this time. Fortunately my step daughter got her transplant just in time and is doing ok now. Not only did Kia sell me a defective product but all this happened as our family is going through the stress of a child being deathly ill, lots of additional costs for medical related expenses and Kia was told this and didn't care. Kia added thousands of dollars to my already stressed finances by selling me a defective vehicle. But it gets even better. The Kia rep in Arizona named Steve that handles my case and many others actually told me on the phone that some of Kia's cars die early and that's just the way it is. He insisted all other car manufacturers have the same problem and also refuse to repair the vehicles leaving their customers screwed too. That's certainly not my experience nor that of anyone I know. Steve at Kia flat out told me Kia isn't going to pay and I'm out of luck because I got a bad Kia and have to eat it. That's what he said. That's Kia’s customer service that said that to me. I have to shake my head and laugh every time I call Kia and their recording says "Rated #1 in initial quality 2 years in a row!" Yeah, and dies in 78,000 miles and Kia refuses to make a full recall or honor it's warranty. You won't see Kia winning any customer service awards or vehicle longevity awards. My advice to anyone that has a Kia (ESPECIALLY if it's a 2.4L) is to trade it in and get something other than a Kia before it dies and your left paying off a car that doesn't run. I liked Kia at one time or I wouldn't have bought one. What I've found out since has opened my eyes to the quality of their vehicles and their denials of their own manufacturing defects even if it could cost lives or severely screw consumers over financially. Buying a Kia might make you think you're getting more quality for less money but it's all based upon lies and cover-ups. That is my Kia experience and it's the WORST experience I've had with any company on any level at any time in my 31 (47 - 16) years of driving cars.
It's definitely not the best quality vehicle around by any means. The Kia in this video was purchased for $16,000 in 2003 and by 2016 had accumulated a large folder of repair receipts exceeding $15,000 within 95,000 miles. The vehicle had issues the dealer was unable to resolve, the owner became frustrated, and I had then purchased it for $200. I was able to solve the mysterious issues which weren't all that complicated. For what a Kia is, don't expect much.
That’s not true. Your local dealer is the probably. I do my own servings on my 2014 and 2021 kias and will in my 23 when it gets delivered. I’ve had repairs needed under warranty. When I change my oil I keep the receipt for the purchase of the oil and filter. I take a quick 20-30 sec video off the oil draining and the odometer. I keep a detailed logo of dates and mileage and everything I did. I have never once been denied a warranty claim. So either you aren’t providing enough proof of maintenance or your dealer sucks it isn’t Kia the manufacturer that’s to blame as the dealer is the middle man. Also this Kia in the video is way past any warranty lol
This view from my other video might help give you a better idea. Keep in mind that I've rerouted my pulley system. th-cam.com/video/bjFoPUz3z9I/w-d-xo.html
I did slack on that and I am completely guilty. I shared what I could throughout this entire process. I was hanging mobile phones and Chinese GoPro cameras up with wire and using a lot of duct tape. If I had a camera person, I guarantee that you'd get the entire process down to a "T".
Thank you. Unfortunately I was unable to be more specific without having a camera man. Now that I watch it again it is a bit vague towards the end. This is the reason why I used the images from the service manual. If you have any more issues with your Sportage, I find enough info from the other users in the Kia-Forums . com to fix just about all of the common issues.
The center bolt on the crankshaft pulley does not need to be removed. The pulley is secured to the crank with six 10 mm bolts. Remove those bolts and the pulley should come off. If it doesn't, tap it with a block of wood and a hammer.
@@freedomtrucker2332 Some brands of timing belts are directional. I don't know if I mentioned this in the video. Also, the timing belt I put on in this video was a cheap Ebay or Amazon belt that came in a package with the water pump and gaskets. It had actually broke and left me stranded after less than a thousand miles. Lesson learned. I bought a quality belt the second time around and have had zero problems.
@@markfothebeast ..well ..that being said ..if I am forced to tear this down again it’ll go much quicker the 2nd time around ..sorry about that belt ..so critical to get quality parts for deep repairs like this ..I’d have been a little ticked about that ..lol ..
Want to thank you for all your help, got my rig all finished, no more coolant leaks, and fired up the first time. Though I forgot initially to plug in that resonator box to the throttle body tube, it was really lumpy and would die, I thought oh crap I screwed up, once I reinstalled it after realizing the mistake, fired up and idled just fine.
Great in-depth video! I referred to this multiple times yesterday to complete the job for my Mom she’s back on the road again thanks a million 👍🏻
VERY useful, CLEAR, short... instead of "hi guys, bla blablabla bla bla bla bla...." thank you so much for your work with this video! I Shared it!
Thanks! I know what you mean. I don't have the patience to watch videos with excessive dialogue that's irrelevant to the subject.
Why doesnt everyone that post how to videos dont do a spectacular job like you do? THANK YOU MR.MONEY SAVER...
One of the top-shelf repair videos on TH-cam, Thank You!
Great instructional video-many you tubers (me included) can learn from your format.
Thanks for posting. This helped a great deal today replacing a belt that had broke.
I'm glad it helped. It is a good thing this is a non-interference engine.
What are your thoughts on eliminating the fan and putting an electric one instead? I did one years ago, like 30 on my El Camino, but it’s been so long, so many options. Any considerations to factor in, such as a double fan or single unit?
I have it almost all torn down, need to take the crankshaft pulley off, then the cover to expose the timing belt, etc.
Thanks!
@@straightto8 I did install an electric fan. The biggest problem I had was it kicking on at the proper temp. I found a backup junk yard thermostat housing I could use as a guinie pig and drilled/tapped a hole in it for a thermistor and that did the job.
@@markfothebeast Okay, don’t sound too bad, I’ll explore some options. It was a huge pain getting the fan off, whomever out it on tightened the nuts so tight, had to use a vise-grip to get it off, two nuts got even more mangled, but I can get replacements. The 10mm wrench I had wasn’t helping on the two that were mangled some already, I just finished them off, but happy they came off.
This was a very useful video for me to work out how to get the timing correct. However I need to remove my fuel injector pump. So you have any videos of this?
I have another question, and I appreciate your taking the time to answer my previous questions. I’ve got the cams set to the proper position, and the crank is lined up accordingly.
So once I slip off the belt, in order to change the water pump, and I put it all back together, and I get the belt back on and I go rotate the engine two times to get to the S mark.
The point of this is to ensure everything is lined up by rotating the engine twice and if it’s still in the proper position than I’ve accomplished the task properly?
I just want to double check with you, I don’t want any hiccups, want to get it right the first time.
TIA
@@straightto8 Yes. Just to ensure that your timing marks are all lined up and didn't slip off a tooth or so. I believe the tensioner pulley is tightened after everthing is set. You should be able to spin the engine and triple check everything before final assembly.
Definitely don't want to have to do it again but I did because the cheap Amazon belt I bought had brpke. Also, check if your belt is directional (marked with arrows in direction of rotation). Neither belt I installed were directional.
@@markfothebeast Thank you sir, i got it all now, I was going to ask you something else, ugh getting old sucks, lol.
Oh yeah, was thinking about deleting my AC, when it comes to evacuating the Freon, is there a good way to do so? Or can I take off the compressor and the cooler for it w/o getting Freon everywhere?
Any recommendations regarding brakes, did you upgrade yours at all, or just stock?
@@straightto8 I just pushed the schrader valve on the line and let it rip but it had no pressure. Not environmentally friendly and unsafe to be close by if it does. I haven't had a vehicle that I've removed the AC on that had pressure so I'm not sure how it's safely removed and so on.
@@markfothebeast Yeah, think this still has juice in it, I’ll just clean it, and the bracket and put it back for now. I’ll have to read up a bit and see, maybe do it after winter. It works good, but I never use it, I just stick around my torn and the windows down work just fine.
Thanks again!
@@markfothebeast Thanks for the additional information regarding the AC. The question I remembered I wanted to ask was about the oil pan gasket.
Have you replaced yours at all? I’m looking at it, looks as though I might be able to drop the oil pan without having to lift the motor out just a little bit. But I’m not quite sure that was what I wanted to ask you about.
I purchased this Sportage from my neighbor for $700 bucks, was leaking at the valve cover and the oil pan. The shop gave her an estimate of $900 to repair it, valve cover was $300, oil pan was $600.
I did the valve cover gasket, did a tune up while I was at it, spent like $125 bucks, put new pcv valve, coil packs, plugs, and wires while I was at it.
No leaking at all from valve cover, the oil pan still leaks a little bit, maybe about a quarter of a quart a month if that While it’s minimal. something I want to fix, just to keep things good.
Hello, must be a stupid question because I think I am seeing what it seems like the crack pulley/harmonic balancer is held on by 10mm bolts is that correct? Meaning removal of the big crank bolt is not necessary as in most vehicles with timing belt. Thanks
I have a 2000 Kia Sportage 2-door soft top the camshaft broke. Away from the pulley How do I replace the camshaft?
Ty for the video i felt it has alot of useful tips i am doing this for a friend how many hours u think it takes and what would be a fair price
Ótima explicação mestre , só que a minha é kia sportage motor DOHC 2.0 16V ANO 97/98 GASOLINA, rebemtou a correia dentada e estou tendo uma certa dificuldade em travar as 2 engrenagem de comando e colocar a correia, caso o amigo tenha uma luz me fale. obrigado. Gino
Probably easier to pull the bottom radiator hose and dump most of the coolant 10 minutes beforehand. Nobody sane is going to put a new water pump on then fill it with old coolant. Might as well drop the whole lot out.
Well even if you do that there is still some fluid left over in pump like in video. The out flow of the pump is higher than the bottom of the pump.
Do I have to remove the fan and housing ? Also needed to remove drive belts?
Yes to all of that.
Nice video. Question. If the belt breaks on a 2000 Sportage, it doesn't hurt anything?
cutwormsmith Correct. This is what is known as a "non-interference" engine. If the belt were to break the pistons would NOT collide with the valves. Fortunately, DOHC 2.0L Sportage engines were designed with "fly cuts" in the pistons to accomodate valve clearance. The older SOHC Sportage engines are an "interference" engine, however.
markfothebeast Thanks so much for the info! Buying a nice used one this morning.
cutwormsmith There are a few bugs that are fairly common with these vehicles. I managed to track them all down. The Kia-forum. com is a good community to work out common issues. I'd suggest any 1st gen Sportage owner to read through or join for any additional help. I do have to say though, my Sporty has been bulletproof since some repairs and modifications. Please view my other Sportage videos if you are interested.
@@markfothebeast I was looking at getting a 1998 kia Sportage does that have a interference engine?
I have an 02 sportage, I can't find a repair manual for it. I have a few issues with my sportage.
Kia-forums.com - go to Kia Sportage section, 1st Gen, and under "Stickies" you should find a link to the ENTIRE factory service manual. You may have to register for the "Stickies" section to appear.
In the middle of doing this now. I didn't notice how my replacement belt did not have lines marked on it. Any idea how many teeth between each mark? I should have counted before removing the belt. Live and learn....
Keep the pulleys on the lines centered. When you put the belt on and add tension just rotate the engine to ensure that the camshaft pulleys line up. These lines on the pulleys themselves are for the timing. You'll notice immediately if you're off a tooth.
In other words, don't depend on the belt itself to line up the timing.
makes sense. i just recall on other engines having belt marks and counting teeth between timing mark in order to be truly foolproof about being accurate. this is only the second belt i've ever done and i tend to overthink everything.
This engine won't be damaged if a cam is out of time from the belt.
Do you have any videos that include the serpentine/alternator belt? I am having some issues, in other words I am crying on the side of the road for the upteenth time
I do not. I changed the configuration of my pulleys and belts so I may not be of any help. Are you simply needing to replace the alternator belt?
Good day Sir. i plan to do overhauling job on my kia but i don't have manual as a guide. I hope you are kind enough to share with me your manual or the any download link so I can download the manual. Thank you sir and God bless you.
Kia-forums.com - go to Kia Sportage section, 1st Gen, and under "Stickies" you should find a link to the service manual. You may have to register for the "Stickies" section to appear.
The service manual is very vague. I shared generally most of what the service manual has published as far as changing the timing belt.
thank you very much for the download link of the manual and thank you also for posting this great video. You're a lifesaver.
Hi, Mark. You know if is danger of engine damage if the belt is brocken on driving? Thanks.
Ovidiu Crăciun The 2.0L DOHC engine WILL NOT be harmed if the belt snaps. The term is "non-interference" engine.
Thank you. I have purchased the belt and 2 roles, but I am a little bit scary about doing right timing belt replace.
Ovidiu Crăciun It's not too difficult. Do it step by step. Take your time and use your judgement.
One more thing I should add; go to the the Kia Forums website, go to the "Sportage" section, and at the top of the page in the "Stickies" section you can download the service manuals for free.
Done!
Hello sir, Is it any cam position sensor or any sensor near the belt? One of my friend changed his timing belt and now the car wont start. Regards, Robert B.
Robert Bakos Hi Robert - It's on the rear of the cylinder head on the drivers side camshaft. The wiring can also be problematic. The wire harness on top of the engine that runs behind the cylinder head has caused me issues.
-Test compression (valve timing may be off)
-Check for spark
-Test the crankshaft position sensor
Done. It cranks but does not start! Why?
+Rosemary Avalos It appears your timing may be set wrong (belt slipped or improperly aligned). Please join the "Kia Forum" for further help under "1st Gen Sportage". Guess number 2 could be a wiring issue. It is fairly common for the wiring to get slightly bumped and lose connection to a sensor. The crank sensor would cause no start but I would check the orientation of the belt.
Wrong timing.
I hope you can post a video on fuel injector removal of this same engine 1992 - 2000 Kia Sportage 2.0L DOHC. Please.
I won't be removing the injectors any time soon. But I can give you a bit of advice. There's not much to the process. Just remove stuff strategically...
Generally every nut or bolt is 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. I recall that you'll need to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold because these are in the way. Remove everything that you need to access the injectors.
Disconnect the battery and mark your harness connectors (fool proof - different types of connectors to each sensor). Strategically sort out the removed parts with labels and mark vacuum hoses.
Remove everything that's in the way of the injectors. You can't hurt much unless you break a bolt or strip threads. The sensor connector locks are easy to lose - be careful. If you need a gasket for the intake manifold or throttle body you'd better have them on hand.
The injectors simply pull out of the injector rail. Not much too it. Gently twist around and slowly yank. The fuel pressure will drain from the fuel rail so be careful. You may want to replace the injector O-Rings as well. They look like a little donut. These are a very unusual style of injector.
This vehicle is the common victim of electrical gremlins. The wiring is very poor as well as the connectors. Be careful with the connectors. If you are having potential injector issues I'd buy the $10 - $15 injector tester lights to verify there's current to each injector.
how i can order that 4x4 hubcap? please give the answer so that my sportage 4x4 will work
www.amazon.com/dp/B07GVHNV5X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_nBUvDbCWMAV4H
hey man i have an 01 im assuming yours might be a little older? anyway i was wondering if you knew with the 01 do you have to actually undo the power steering pump and move it out of the way? i dont know much about this car stuff and keep getting discouraged but its like a fever because i just want to keep going back and trying it..
thanks
I have a 2002. I never removed the power steering pump once. There's two 14mm bolts that need to be loosened to remove belt tension. That's all. I've deleted the A/C, clutch fan, and idler pulley so I don't have many accessories in the way.
It doesn't hurt to remove whatever you need if it's in your way. Taking things apart and putting them back together is how you learn to DIY.
ok good to know thanks for reply
How long does this process take
It could take anywhere from 5 to 20 hours. I've replaced two Sportage timing belts and the second time took roughly 4-5 hours with beer breaks in between.
What is the longevity of the 2.0 & 2.4 in those model years ? Ill be waiting for a response , so don't dilly dally around this time !! Thx
I think the 2.0L DOHC could be a reliable little engine if not plagued by electrical issues. At least mine was.
@@markfothebeastGot 235k on mine, just replaced the gasket for the water inlet pipe, I honestly thought that was the leak. It was, but before I put the rest of the crap on, I filled the system halfway, then the leaking started again, not at the inner pipe, rather it’s the water pump. I was honestly hoping that it wasn’t the water pump, but it is. I’m not thrilled about doing this job, but your video has helped me greatly, thank you for your efforts.
@@straightto8It's honestly not that terrible of a job. Much easier to repair than newer vehicles.
@@markfothebeast Your video gave me a confidence boost, that’s for sure! I just felt defeated after all the efforts, waiting on parts to fix the leak from the inlet pipe, replaced the thermostat, had already put in a new radiator, hoses and clamps. Had this little leak I couldn’t readily track down, traced it initially to the inlet gasket. After putting in a bit of coolant to check for leaks, the darn thing started leaking some, used my iPhone to video things and seen where it was coming from, the two leaking deceived me to think it was just the one item. Anywho, I was having issues getting the nuts off the fan, they are 10mm but the access is tight, I guess I need a longer wrench to give me more leverage. I only paid $700 for this, been driving it for a few years with few issues, so with the parts being so cheap, why not fix it.
Location of crankshaft & Camshaft sensor of a Kia Sportage 1996,/ 2.0
Hey I have another question so frustrated and worried I don't know if I messed something up but these timing marks aren't lining up they're close but not perfect is it a big deal? God I messed some shit up honestly I can truthfully say though if this thing is done for I did pretty damn good for a minimal skill level in cars and I will never purchase a vehicle again where it requires you to remove so much stuff to get to the belt you honestly might as well remove the damn engine too
No worries. If the markings both appear vertical and the crankshaft marking is also vertical, give it a shot. Turn the engine over a few times by hand and check that everything is lining up after about 6 crankshaft rotations.
If the timing markings are off, you're engine won't blow up or anything crazy. That's the nice part about this vehicles engine. It'd just run out of time or not run at all and you'd have to adjust the belt. But don't worry too much. It's a little obvious when it's off a tooth. But you do need to crank the engine over to get the slack out and double check timing marks.
You will not hurt anything if put together improperly. The vehicle will be okay.
@@markfothebeast it's weird on the camshafts there is also a letter S too.. now yes the marks are vertical they are all in the general direction of "up" but what I mean is just the marks are about 1-2cm off from the indentations the "I" is to the right a little bit and the "E" is to the left a little bit.. what if they just never line up though do you have to individually adjust the cam and crank separately? Thanks for the reply I do appreciate it it's pretty helpful to have a response to this being that the video is 3 years old haha
@@MCrelationz Sounds about right with the markings I believe. And yes, all camshafts have to be in that position with the crankshaft marking facing up. It literally requires at least 2 people. Get it in to position and turn the engine a few times and things will make a little more sense. It's the slack in the timing belt that may cause some confusion.
@@markfothebeast well unfortunately I do not have 2 people so I'll be trying to finish this all myself. When I turn each cam individually they "jump" a couple of inches and they literally will not go into the position they're supposed to go into and they literally never line up together it's weird
Here is my Kia experience. Anyone in my position has encountered the same thing from Kia. If you cannot supply them with up to date maintenance records on your vehicle they will not cover it. So for instance, if you change your own oil you're screwed. Might work if you saved all your receipts but very few people are in the habit of saving receipts of them doing their own oil changes. This ploy Kia uses is well documented if you want to look it up, I have, and it’s out there. Also my car would be covered under the SC147 recall as the symptoms of my engine seizing up (engine needs replaced) followed the exact same symptomology as those the manufacturing defect notes in the recall. The recall notice even appears on my Carfax report. Again you can find all the recall information online. The reason my car isn't part of the SC147 recall according to Kia is because it is MPI instead of GDI. All the rest of the engine is the exact same, 2.4L theta II. Kia says that because my car uses a different kind of fuel injection method that it cannot be affected by the metal filings left in the engine block which is what the SC147 recall is all about. That's totally absurd on its face but that's Kia's position. The vehicles Kia did recall was done after many government threats as well as numerous lawsuits brought by disgruntled Kia owners for which there are many. Kia's mother company, Hyundai actually recalled their vehicles for the same problem immediately when the issue was discovered. It took Kia several years later to admit to the problem and issue a recall even though they were well aware of the problem. Where was Kia's concern for people being killed due to this manufacturing defect? A car having its engine seize up on the interstate would be something that would concern most companies immediately but not Kia. Unless Kia completely changes the way it does business they will continue to cost consumers thousands of dollars for defective cars and probably end up killing people due to their own negligence. I had to argue, write emails, file complaints with various entities, etc just to get Kia to actually LOOK at my engine at no cost to me to determine the how and why of the engine failure. Kia refused to cover my car even though it is under warranty and furthermore refused to even LOOK at my car to see what caused the failure. I'm still waiting for a callback from Kia with their assessment. Kia actually agreed to take my valve cover off to take a look at my car once I complained as high up as I could to Kia. This was after several months of my car sitting dead on the Auffenberg Kia lot in Metro east St Louis. Kia actually told me I'd have to pay $1500 up front to have my engine failure looked into initially. My constant pressure on Kia finally got them to say they would take my valve cover off for no fee which costs Kia less than $50 in labor. Kia had no desire whatsoever to know what caused my engine to seize up. Their ONLY concern was to avoid any acknowledgement of any responsibility or liability. Kia already knew what caused the engine to fail. The same thing that happened to hundreds of thousands of the same engines made by Kia and Hyundai. It was the exact same problem as the Kia SC147 recall. Taking the valve cover off will not help. There was no oil leak. No oil smell. Never any indication of any problem with the valve cover. It's simply a ploy for Kia to say we looked at your engine and it's your fault. Who would trust their assessment at this point anyway? I'm out thousands of dollars I still owe on a car without a working engine. Don't you think any car maker worth a darn would want to know why one of their vehicles engines just seized up on the highway? Kia's been super lucky so far no one has died due to their negligence. Additionally a co-worker of mine had a problem with his Kia and will not buy one again either. For his Kia the car required a specific oil filter made and installed by Kia and if that was not used the engine fails. He was never told this when he purchased the vehicle. His insurance successfully sued Kia for over $7,000 for his engine failure. Unfortunately my insurance doesn't cover mechanical issues. Ever wonder why your Kia never quite gets the gas mileage it was rated to get? Kia has also paid out for a class action lawsuit because they lied about the MPG of many of their models. The very MPG rating that many people base a large percentage of their purchase decision on. Yeah, Kia lied about that too but kept it hush hush. You can find the information online if you look for it. I had my car into the dealership (Auffenberg) several times before the engine failure telling them something is bad wrong with the car. The Kia service department ran every kind of computer diagnostic and could find no reason for the problems which included knocking, major loss of power, major loss of fuel economy and car dying at both idle and speed. Check engine light was always on and every sensor it said was malfunctioning was replaced and it didn't help. Unfortunately I could not leave my car with Kia. Kia wouldn't supply me with a free rental. They said it was against company policy. My step daughter was dying needing a second liver transplant as all this was going on and I couldn't be without that vehicle. With only one vehicle (other than the Kia) I wouldn't be able to get to work or my step daughter wouldn't be able to be cared for properly. I told Kia this and still they refused to get me a rental while they actually got to the root of my car problem and addressed it. Instead they said sorry to hear that, we can't find any problem with your car. They actually let me leave with a car they KNEW was dangerous and about to fail. They didn't care that my family was going through a serious medical situation with my step daughter and the car behaving as it was only increased the stress on my entire family during this time. Fortunately my step daughter got her transplant just in time and is doing ok now. Not only did Kia sell me a defective product but all this happened as our family is going through the stress of a child being deathly ill, lots of additional costs for medical related expenses and Kia was told this and didn't care. Kia added thousands of dollars to my already stressed finances by selling me a defective vehicle. But it gets even better. The Kia rep in Arizona named Steve that handles my case and many others actually told me on the phone that some of Kia's cars die early and that's just the way it is. He insisted all other car manufacturers have the same problem and also refuse to repair the vehicles leaving their customers screwed too. That's certainly not my experience nor that of anyone I know. Steve at Kia flat out told me Kia isn't going to pay and I'm out of luck because I got a bad Kia and have to eat it. That's what he said. That's Kia’s customer service that said that to me. I have to shake my head and laugh every time I call Kia and their recording says "Rated #1 in initial quality 2 years in a row!" Yeah, and dies in 78,000 miles and Kia refuses to make a full recall or honor it's warranty. You won't see Kia winning any customer service awards or vehicle longevity awards. My advice to anyone that has a Kia (ESPECIALLY if it's a 2.4L) is to trade it in and get something other than a Kia before it dies and your left paying off a car that doesn't run. I liked Kia at one time or I wouldn't have bought one. What I've found out since has opened my eyes to the quality of their vehicles and their denials of their own manufacturing defects even if it could cost lives or severely screw consumers over financially. Buying a Kia might make you think you're getting more quality for less money but it's all based upon lies and cover-ups. That is my Kia experience and it's the WORST experience I've had with any company on any level at any time in my 31 (47 - 16) years of driving cars.
It's definitely not the best quality vehicle around by any means. The Kia in this video was purchased for $16,000 in 2003 and by 2016 had accumulated a large folder of repair receipts exceeding $15,000 within 95,000 miles.
The vehicle had issues the dealer was unable to resolve, the owner became frustrated, and I had then purchased it for $200. I was able to solve the mysterious issues which weren't all that complicated. For what a Kia is, don't expect much.
That’s not true. Your local dealer is the probably. I do my own servings on my 2014 and 2021 kias and will in my 23 when it gets delivered. I’ve had repairs needed under warranty. When I change my oil I keep the receipt for the purchase of the oil and filter. I take a quick 20-30 sec video off the oil draining and the odometer. I keep a detailed logo of dates and mileage and everything I did. I have never once been denied a warranty claim. So either you aren’t providing enough proof of maintenance or your dealer sucks it isn’t Kia the manufacturer that’s to blame as the dealer is the middle man.
Also this Kia in the video is way past any warranty lol
Looking for how to take the covers off, darn it
8mm bolts are all that should be holding the two covers on. Other than the pulleys and accessories.
This view from my other video might help give you a better idea. Keep in mind that I've rerouted my pulley system.
th-cam.com/video/bjFoPUz3z9I/w-d-xo.html
good vídeo BROO
Prefer people who talk that way I can work on the car while listening instead of reading
Thanks for the suggestion. I will narrate some videos in the future.
🎉
good to a point, then he skips showing putting the belt on before tightening down.
I did slack on that and I am completely guilty. I shared what I could throughout this entire process. I was hanging mobile phones and Chinese GoPro cameras up with wire and using a lot of duct tape. If I had a camera person, I guarantee that you'd get the entire process down to a "T".
great job
Thank you. Unfortunately I was unable to be more specific without having a camera man. Now that I watch it again it is a bit vague towards the end. This is the reason why I used the images from the service manual. If you have any more issues with your Sportage, I find enough info from the other users in the Kia-Forums . com to fix just about all of the common issues.
thanks friend
Ok
Sarava
Crankshaft pulley removal? ..everything else is pretty easy ..
The center bolt on the crankshaft pulley does not need to be removed. The pulley is secured to the crank with six 10 mm bolts. Remove those bolts and the pulley should come off. If it doesn't, tap it with a block of wood and a hammer.
@@markfothebeast ..yes ..I found that out after the fact ..but do appreciate your response ..very good vid ..thank you sir!
@@freedomtrucker2332 Some brands of timing belts are directional. I don't know if I mentioned this in the video. Also, the timing belt I put on in this video was a cheap Ebay or Amazon belt that came in a package with the water pump and gaskets.
It had actually broke and left me stranded after less than a thousand miles. Lesson learned. I bought a quality belt the second time around and have had zero problems.
@@markfothebeast ..well ..that being said ..if I am forced to tear this down again it’ll go much quicker the 2nd time around ..sorry about that belt ..so critical to get quality parts for deep repairs like this ..I’d have been a little ticked about that ..lol ..
@@freedomtrucker2332 For sure. The second time is a breeze.