Installing SOLAR was a TERRIBLE idea! 💨
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- Here it is, the final stage of this awesome solar installation that we completed a few weeks ago. Tackling solar in high winds is not easy, but at Artisan we're up to the challenge to complete this beautifully finished set-up with full solar skits and solar edge battery storage.
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⏱️Timestamps
00:00 Crazy Moment
02:05 Roof Cables
05:44 Panels!
07:44 Voltage Test
09:55 Battery Storage
12:36 Insanely Heavy
14:20 DC Isolators
18:34 Energy Boost
20:57 Panel Mapping
23:34 Mini Rolls
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This video is for entertainment purposes only please do not attempt to copy or recreate it. Do so at your own risk.
#sparkylife #electricianlife #artisanelectrics - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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First time I've seen your content and while it looks like you do great work and present decent content, the clickbait title is a strategy which may yield short-term gains but in the long-term will likely cost more than it gained. It appears you do quality work and explain it very well. Don't sell yourself short utilising poor strategies even if it seems "everyone" is doing it. Hopefully it's only a part of your learning curve and you go onto the level of competence you've achieved with the rest of your work.
Couldn't agree more. Really stupid thing for him to have done but perhaps more naive than stupid. Come on mate, use your brains. How much do you like being dicked about? How much do you think people watching this are going to like you doing it to them?
Even tough you have solar optimizers on every panel,
I would put the two sides of the roof on a separate string
Most Solar Inverters have 2 MPPT's....😉
Here in Austria we have to ground the metal frame of the solar install with at least 16mm²
Also our code requires over voltage arrestors in a box in the attic or close to the panels
If u ground them it will become a lightning protector, therefore you need to make a separate ground rod so you don’t fry every electronics, when lightning will hit them. In Denmark we will advise not to ground them, due to the fact that it will increase the chance of lightning strike, and due to the fact that the rails won’t be connected to anything in conductive, so you will have to get a direct path to ground to be able to get shocked 😊
@@4900dk in England we don't ground roof mounted arrays as they are class 2 pieces of equipment & should not be earthed. However, we do earth ground mounted arrays
16mm² DC cables? I think you mixing something
@@myautoclipsOf course not DC!
16 mm² Protective Earth conductors
U wouldn’t need to put two separate strings for 6 panels that’s so over top
Climbing up the ladder one handed while carrying a solar panel.
All good though as you’ve got your safety glasses on…..😂😂
Yoda singing about the seagulls was a lovely BLR reference.
Great instructional video and makes it easier for us that are getting into the field to understand all of the wiring, cheers Artisan Team!
Glad you enjoyed it
@artisanelectrics I have a question. In the new cu did you use a type b rccb? Or is a type a good enough. I watched the 3 videos I didn't see this and also how you connected the new cu to the customer original one the other side of the fire place. Was it on a way from thay board or on Henly blocks on the cu tails?
These clickbait titles are really off putting. You make decent content, please stop trying to chase the lowest common denominator clicks
Unfortunately that’s the TH-cam algorithm for you, as you say we make decent content but if we don’t add some sense of ‘click bait’ we get half the amount of views which is a hard pill to swallow. We try best to reward with awesome content when you do click though 🫡
I think it’s more a case of get more followers naturally and you’ll get more viewers. don’t be greedy and want to rush
Bit harsh on the comment, but I did find the title a bit misleading. I thought this was a video about the downsides of installing solar when I saw it and why it is a "terrible idea" .
What I found very interesting was the capping around the panels to stop birds from getting underneath. Thanks for the great video
I like all what you doing apart of plastic clips. We should not use them any more. For DC cable in loft space I use Dewslt electrical stapler with metal clips. It is brilliant and fast and legal.
Also working in a roof space where there’s no flat boards laid over the rafters you could make up some plywood panels to take up into the roof space to provide a safer platform to work on so you don’t fall through the ceiling panel
Why was Installing SOLAR a TERRIBLE idea! I like your videos but why do you think it is necessary to use CLICKBAIT?
Indeed. Click bait is not needed. Just bring quality content.
indeed it’s worse than not necessary…
Windy 💨
Thats just how youtube works, clickbait means more people click, more people clicking mean’s youtube will suggest this video to more people. They have to do what they can to get the views 🤷♂️.
Could be worse, the video could be complete rubbish but it isnt. It’s quality content.
@@pn8902 that’s far from the best way to get more people watching. Using clickbait titles which bear no relation to the actual content tends to piss people off. so you might get one-off new viewers, but they’re far less likely to come back time and again than if you’d just made good, interesting content that they’re interested in.
MC4 stands for Multi-Connect (with a 4mm pin connector). Old name of the company. Now Stäubli Connectors but they've stuck with the old name
Stäubli-MC is what normally in the electronics we call most of the products they made. Both names, MC and Stäubli are used interchangeably.
Their 4mm banana jacks are the de facto standard for test equipment connections, with similar designs by other brands as ETA, Pomona, Weidmüller and Phoenix Contact.
Multi-Contact, not connect.
You are so right about cut off cable ties, nasty things. It's very helpful to see the process of fitting an up to date system in some detail. Roof level work is very tiring, the physical stress is continuous. In some ways a steeper pitch is actually better.
The problem is most sparkies cut them with side cutters, have a look at yours, 99% of them have a bevelled cutting edge which leaves the sharp edges on the cable ties. You can buy special cutters, or as in Australia lots of industrial sparkies will grind the bevel out of their everyday side cutters.
I used to work in data comms and cables go under a 6" high false floor into the cabs. Used to have to push the cables under the floor and grab it when it appears in the cab. I still have scars on my arms where idiots used side cutters and left very sharp cable tie ends.
I think with panels on what I assume must be an east-west facing roof, twin inputs to the inverter from each row would have been my preference. It works very well on my system, I just increased the number of panels by 25%, panels are cheap, and I get as much out of my 4KW array as my neighbour gets from his south facing 3KW array. And if you are not already doing so, blocking off access to the underside of the panels to prevent Pigeons from nesting underneath them is a very good idea.
Thanks. I previously assumed the 'skirts' around the edge were to prevent strong winds blowing under the panels - i.e. to prevent the wind lifting the panels. I live in a hillside settlement and I've never seen edge protection fitted, seems like a great improvement - except for bird comfort.
With the solar optimizers basically a DC DC converter on each solar panel the lesser sun on the other side of the roof won't affect the whole string. However as somebody else pointed out spreading the input across the charge controller might be better.
Agreed, we have doves here that love to nest under solar panels that aren’t protected! Noisy beasts at the best of times scrabbling and cooing all the time!
Totally agree......as for pigeons, let them come.....free food.....winner winner free dinner.
Yep, my relative had to pay to get bird (pigeon) protection added a year after his solar install and the costs was something like cost of protection £100, labor cost of adding £200, scaffolding £1000 !
Cable ties! Nice permanent fixing👍 I prefer strawberry laces 🤠
Lol
Thanks for a real fine demonstration, I'm looking at installing here in the US, yours is a very good start to finish with very good narration of the data.
Cool , thanks , giving me a better idea . Nice to have so much room under the roof . I expect to have 4 strings on a much lower pitch . Time to get more lights up there .
During our usual 'load shedding ' , had a look about where to put the batteries /inverter .
Just plan for 2x 4.8 and 12 450w panels , maybe add 6 more and another battery later .
Whatever , was nice to see .Thanks .
Off to get more tracks up on the roof , like the way you used them .
Glad am just single storey .
Hi guys
There is actually a brand called Dektite and they make a product called Dektite DNLS10MB Cable Flashing Kit and it could potentially eliminate the use of PVC conduit for the DC cables entering the roof space. Its worth a look. I love what you guys do! Please keep up the amazing videos!
The worst ‘seagulls, hmmmph, Stop it now!’ Rendition I’ve ever heard! 😂😂😂👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
The work by the roofer to notch the tile is that normal practice when you can get tiles that have a covered hole for cable penetration to replace a standard tile. It’s a much neater installation and removes the possibility of further tile damage and leaks
Notching the tile will have absolutely no deleterious effect on a roof with a pitch that steep
We have to install ALL solar DC cables in HD conduit for their entire run here in Australia. On a wall, in a loft, in a wall cavity. We had issues with guys cutting them to jb off for another socket, not realising they were DC. HD conduit can be corrugated or solid PVC or steel. If PVC, it must be marked by the manufacturer as HD. You guys have it easy sometimes🤪
A lot of key board critics.
Keep doing what your doing. Very informative and honest. 👏👏
Another good one lads, well done
We are having solar and battery storage fitted in the new year, so it was interesting to see what the process intales. I hope they do a similarly neat job.
Problem is the batteries still aren't there yet. You'll most likely have to replace them in 5 to 8 years. So think about the cost of doing that and then deduct that from the amount you think you've been saving from your power bill . . . . .
Saving $5,000 over 5 years to then have to spend $5,000 replacing the batteries . . . . . . .
@@johnrauner2515 Think you're being ripped off mate. Just checked my contract and the batteries have a ten year warranty. Also cost less then the £ 4000+ you quoted.
@@johnrauner2515 John that is a very interesting point - could you possibly expand on it a little?
Smashing editing 🔥
I feel your pain Jordan, I run a solar firm and we do commercial solar panelling so in terms of getting your first panel straight it is virtually impossible as you never really have anything to square off per day as the roof is never perfectly square. Try squaring off 8x20 arrays 😊
I work for a company in Austria and we recently started installing our first rooftop solar plants. I quickly realized that getting them straight was a big problem. Next year we will be doing a lot more and I would appreciate if you could give me a tip on the easiest way to do it.
@@Eswaldi try creating an L where your first panels are butted up together top to bottom and perfectly in line on the left side and try square them to the roof as best as you can it’s experience really but it might be trial and error at first you will quickly realise when you move on to row two.Use a string line and get it as tight as you can with clamps on either end of the bottom row so that they line with middle of the rail. If you’re L is pretty straight then you just fill the square out starting from bottom to top. It’s very hard to get it perfect so you have to let it stagger slightly sometimes because there are so many variables on the roof I.e roof not being completely level, rails at different heights/ not perfectly In line( string line is your best friend to get rails straight). There’s also a tolerance In panels so they are never completely the same sizes and you will notice that they bow slightly so the line is never perfectly straight. Some panels are better than others, some roofs are better than others but that is just the industry I’m afraid it comes down to experience here and also don’t forget to put the gap back in top to bottom of the first panels (I) of the “L” as you should have at least 10mm gaps around the panels to meet regulations.
Hope this helps hit me up if you need any more info, sorry it’s really hard to explain over text and I’m a hands on guy so my apologies
I have the same PV panels (had mine 3 years) but I was never given the option of the skirt, what is it used for? I assumed to stop birds getting under but it looked open at the top. Other option I guess is to cut down wind getting under and ripping the panels off.
haha Blue for positive, that won't get confusing :)
If there is a red yes .. but if the other cable is black it makes sense .
But in case thee is brown and blue .. blue is negative and brown is positive ( at least in the industrial automation )
The black solar cable with the blue tape is the + . and he connects is to the brown .. so makes sense .
But also confusing .. a red tape woud make more sense :p
Fabulous job you guys 🇮🇪👏😎
Great job guys! Looking forward to getting a similar system installed in the near future.
well done for getting up there and doing it
What would be really useful would be to detail the complete installation costs versus the power generation and energy used/exported and the corresponding payback time before you break even. Generally speaking, most electrical energy is required in the winter when solar generation is low and least electrical energy is required in the summer when solar energy is maximum. The size of this installation seems excessive for the size of the property and with export tariffs so low (relative to import) it's hard to see how it's justified. If you have an EV you could use this as your main storage (providing you have VTH) and fit a smaller battery saving costs. Please explain how the specification of this installation makes sense. Note, I'm fully in favour of solar installation, but sized accordingly.
What a great location that house is in, would love to live next door to a Church and Boneyard!
I loved watching you doing this job 🙂
Nice job. Solar edge, is ok but Enphase works much better on A.C. Its plug and play, You get an hour extra power at the start and end of the day.
Great job! Absolutely loved the BLR reference lol🤣
On bowed roof you should consider starting from the center to align all pannels, it will be easier than starting from a side
MC stands for the US company MultiContact... It gives another solar Plug Systems from Phoenix named Sunclics and another Plug manufacturer in Europe
SunClix is mostly used by SMA .. and is toolles . they are not compatible saldy . For me MC4 is still the standard .
I was considering micro inverters/optimisers, but I decided against it because they do get break downs. Taking into account that it always detrimental to the roof to walk on it and it is costly to install scaffolding I decided to have central inverter on the ground floor. After all PV panels can work for 30 years but inverters are not that reliable.
Any reason you went for Solar edge over Enphase? total cost is lower with some benefits like a lower operating voltage and no string inverter so there is no need to allocate space for one and it's a single point of failure.
I don't understand why going to the extra expense of optimisers, when the two sides of the roof appear unobstructed with uniform faces, why not just run two separate strings? Is it because the owner wanted Solar Edge battery or inverter, therefore the optimisers and single string are just how the package comes?
Great video as usual 👍 Can optimisers be retrofitted to an existing system? Or are there any other suggestions for how to make sure we're getting the most from a 7 year old system?
I would contact your inverter manufacturer and ask them what optimisers they sell. The other alternative is to use microinverters on each panel.
I am currently studying Level 3 electrical installation, and i watch your videos all the time
Do you have any tips or advice on how to get starter pack tools cheap and better quality?
Thanks
MC4 = Multi-Contact (Sometimes called Multibranch Connector).
Only just discovered and subscribed to your channel but loving everything so far!
Only four fixings in the wall bracket for the SolarEdge? Not a dig, just wondering why?
Your installation standard is top notch, do you only cover Cambridge?
---
You are spot on about wiring through the Isolator more than once. Because 4 pole DC Isolators can handle taking two strings to an Inverter. But when you have a single string, you need to make sure the Isolator can disconnect the nominal current - so passing through it twice gives you 4 contacts in series.
MC : MC is short for “metal-clad,” and this type of cable is sheathed with a metallic coating. MC cable is defined as an assembly of one or more insulated circuits, often enclosed with an armor of metal tape or a metallic sheath. The most popular MC cables today feature aluminum interlocked armor.
absolute bs, standard solar DC cable is not metal clad in anyway. MC4 refers only to the connector which used to be manufactured by Multi-Contact, and this type of connector has a 4mm pin, hence the MC4, they also used to make MC3s...
Good trick with the crimping tool there - I've made custom power supply cables for my computer before, and when you have 24 + 8 + 16 + 16 (minimum) cables to crimp ATX pins to both ends of little hacks like that safe your sanity (and fingers).
Hi Jordan
You asked about the name MC4 connectors . I am pretty sure it stands for multicontact as this was the name of the manufacturers which were a German company with a UK office in Milton Keynes.
Keep up the great work and Happy Christmas to all the team.
Anthony
MC4 stands for multi contact 4mm Multi contact being the name of the company that manufactures them
No optimisers on my solar panels and following the snow, some panels had snow while others didn't. We had virtually no energy generated. next day I got up with a long-handled scraper to remove the snow - problem solved.
It's crazy how even a tiny part of a panel having snow on it can virtually zero the generation - I've got optimisers, but thought from the data I had a failed panel as it was barely generating anything until I realised it had about the bottom 2 inches covered by snow/ice...
Its really not recommend to scrape of ur solar panels with anything just let the sun melt the ice! When the glass of the solar panel are scraped ur yield can go down big times! 1small scratch at the worst place of the array can fuck up the whole solar panel!
Hi, The above video shows the house has steel beams running on the roof. Is this kind of reinforcement required for installing solar panels?
Should the cable ties not be metal as they are outdoors and securing electrical?
MC4 originally named from the company "Multi-Contact" with a 4mm connection pin, at least according to Wikipedia ;^)
Detachable handles on an awkwardly heavy unit is a cool idea. I haven't seen that before. Is it common?
What was the cost of this installation? How much power will it produce each year, so what are the savings, and how many years will it take to recoup the cost? What are the typical working lives of the various components?
I am looking to get them installed when they work to both supply my electricity needs and keep the house warm at night and during the 6 months of winter.
Stupid thing people say is "You need to wait until summer to see the real benefit"
15:10 Hopefully the switch is rated for DC voltages and not just AC? I have seen a number of switches burn up because the installers used AC only switches that were not rated for DC voltages. 🤠👍
Do you fit smoke alarms/multi sensor alarms to the areas containing pv equipment and do you use radio links and an alarm controller? Assuming you use Aico gear. Cheers.
20:27 I can verify with that as well that the Wago 221's are rated for DC as well. I talked with their customer support people and they verified that its good up to the full rated voltage. 👍
you are great men and thank you
If you went with pylontech batteries you'd be able to take them up much easier and be able to add to the storage very easily at a later date
In my country Brazil, solar energy is a big deal, cus our solar irradiation is approximately 5.60 kW/M²
MukGuard overshoes, recommended? Do you need to go up a size to fit over boots?
I have the same system and it’s excellent. The battery makes a huge difference.
What type of panels were you using, they looked smart and neat.
Excellent
Anyone else thinking safe working at height? Even though your working off scaffold with kickboards it is still best practice to wear a harness with a fall arrest device. Then there is the way there lifting the panels up the ladder. Climbing ladders three points of contact at all time. Fall arrest as you ascend or descend and the panel should hoisted from the ground. you go on about belt and braces isolating the panel but are happy to fall and injure yourself.
err no......... Their job, their business, their bodies. I don't think the purpose of the video is to invite keyboard warriors who talk a lot about something they don't do.
@@BerkeleyTowers But as "influencers" they have a responsibility to their views and to their apprentice to do a job properly and safely.
A recoil fall arrest device clipped to the solar mounting rail and to the dorsal on the harness won't impact their work flow.
you can use a similar system on the ladder.
I'm sure the customer will be pleased if they dropped the panel and then had to wait for a replacement.
you also say its his business. well if he fell and seriously injured himself the HSE would fine him into bankruptcy and use the video footage shot as evidence. I can see the redundancy letter. Sorry lads your out of a job because its my business and my body.
Here in the US fall arresting equipment is required on that pitch.
@@G7OEA You seem to have a lot to say about H&S and nothing to do with the content of the video? If you want to give constructive criticism, let's hear exactly what codes he's breaking. Or you just like to gob off? Let adults be adults and decide what's best for their own business. If you, or anybody else, are so weak minded that you might be "influenced" to work off scaffold and not competent to do so, then crack on. It's called Darwinism. Just out of curiosity, you know that the rail will hold a lateral force of, say, a 100kg at several G of deceleration, how exactly? (Asking with my structural engineering hat on......... )
@@marossgnv So what? A completely worthless comment if not in context. You erect scaffold at eaves height as a platform to work off. You erect barriers at the gable end? Spoiler alert, the USA hasn't got the last word in working practices.
At 23:07 it shows 0.03kw being imported from the grid while the battery is being charged, my understanding was if the panels produced more than the house require then it would charge the battery so you could, in theory, go off grid and not have to import any electricity?
Yeah, that's only 30W coming from the grid. It is due to constant fluctuations in power demand, meaning there will generally be a slight import or export as the system tries to keep the net grid power consumption at zero whilst sending the excess to the batteries.
MC4 stands for manufacturer multi Contact and 4 for 4 mm diameter contact pin .
Wonder why the roof rafters have been replaced with big steel beams? Almost like they wanted to do a loft conversion but then didn't...
Those 'rafters.' are actually purlins, that support the mid span of the rafters.
I've seen videos explain that the optimisers are useless in modern solar panels. What's your opinion on that?
Great videos we been bashing the solar in too and these a few videos in my u tube channel some big 50kw systems and very large pennies and off grid systems have alook 😎😊🔨👨🔧
How about installing 6mm2 dc cable?
The name MC4 was derived from it's inventor company name "Multi-Contact AG" which now is part of "Stäubli Electrical Connectors AG". I don't know where the number 4 is actually coming from.
Hi are them cable ties uv rated .
Doesn't the PV need surge protection on the DC side now in the latest regs?
Personally I think the DC side needs short circuit protection particularly if you staple the pos and neg in one staple or take both cores through one hole in a tile. Rodent attack could cause a big short resulting in a 🔥
Was that a rendition of the classic "SEAGULLS! (Stop It Now)", by Bad Lip Reading? lol
You wear use any safety gear when on the roof in windy conditions? Also 4mm square is 4 times the size of 4 square mm
Is there a reason you prefer an optimized system compared to a microinverter system like Enphase?
Its been a while, but I was once involved with a few installs using those. They are awesome. The circuit is a simple 230v radial. One day I'll get solar at home and use them.
I looked at both here in Australia. Emphases micros were going to be more than $1000 more than SE optimisers so I went with that. SE 5kw inverter on 6.6kv of panels with optimisers. Been a great system so far. Nearly 3 years old now
Why not use a red wire for the positive?
DC cable colours have indeed changed yet again with Ammendment 2 of BS7671 18th edition
Why would any connector block (in this case the Wago ones) NOT be suitable for DC circuit connections? I can understand voltage and current restrictions, for obvious reasons, but not a DC restriction!
I know that screw terminals can come loose with high voltage AC connections - I have often experienced these, but what does DC do that could be bad for connectors?
Nice too
hey, How much does a solar set up like this cost? battery included? perhaps 6 to 8 panels?
My neighbor was so proud of his solar addition. He just had to show it to me. The one thing he wouldn't talk about was the total cost that he had to pay. "TOP SECRET," I guess. Shortly after, he asked me if I would lend him some of my 5-gallon buckets as he had 'several small leaks' in his attic. About five years later, he needed to replace his asphalt roof shingles. He had to pay for the removal of the panels, the new roof, and the re-installation of the panels. The cost he paid for this was marked "Ultra Top Secret."
@@outlet6989 The panels can be had for $200-$300, the biggest cost unless you have to HIRE people to install this or anything- is the deep cycle BATTERIES which can cost several hundred dollars each or more, so if you want to have a large capacity and want 4, 6 or more batteries they could cost you $5000
Mostly the solar panel system is good for when there's a power blackout- so you have power when the lines are down due to storms etc or to run SOME of your power.
People live in RV's in the USA and travel the country, getting ALL their power from solar panels on the roof, it makes better sense for them.
3 minutes in and I notice that you still aren’t using a cable Ty gun which would beat your flush cutters hands down!
It will be good to put some SPD to the boxon in attic
How big is the system? What's the panel, inverter and battery brands used? And size? 😊
your take on SPDs would be interesting
I'd also ask, what if one of those optimisers failed and pushed out full voltage, hence an isolator.
when its time to repair the shingles on your roof expect the cost to significantly eat into the energy savings contribution your panels provide and expect roof leaks galore.
Does solaredge still require an internet connection to actually produce solar? Because not being able to limit data to my local network, and not having solar power when the internet is down was just a no-go for me.
Erm, no... You just won't be able to use the app to monitor the system or any other app related function. It will still convert light energy into electrical energy
@@craigbutler6243 Well better that way. I must have been wrongly informed.
How many years until the complete supply and install of this system has paid for itself?
8-9 years at todays elec prices and this kit. Probably 12 years for a premium fitter like these guys.
Amazing work Jordan 👍 will a mini roll work in place of a WAGO 😂
For optimum efficiency, I thought the angle of panels should be the same angle as the latitude lines of where you are. That roof looks awfully steep.
Solar edge recommend not using a dc isolator as it can cause issues down the line. They prefer a straight connection to the unit. As you are just adding another point of failure with it, every mc4 connection is a potential point of failure and there's 2 per panel and 4 per optimiser.
+1 .. 14 panel X 4 MC4 connectors + 2 on the inverter itself .. lot's of connections that can fail . And don't know about the isolator .. wich seems to be for 3 fase AC .. and using armoured cable for DC ....could be confusing ?
Nz and Aus those DC solar cables inside would have to in a HD conduit or Steel to meet protect requirements
Bit over the top !
I live in Australia. I’ve had solar on my roof the last 10 years and I would estimate that I have saved $5000 Australian over that time so to your assertion Solar is a good idea if the figures stack up
Any thoughts on solar tiles? I've been considering them since we have a south facing peaked dorma roof (Victorian property, with original Welsh slate) and it'd only have enough space for about 3-4 panels where as using tiles would lead to much better coverage.
The back of the house though would be fine with traditional panels.
3:21 - are you sure that roof is strong enough?! Pretty sure that didn't need much of a structural survey!
That’s an odd roof, it looks as though someone had previously converted that space, you can see the old plasterboard adhesive on the block work and where the mineral insulation has previously been installed between the rafters.
I do wonder if proper structural calculations are done that take account of snow loading etc my thoughts are that it doesn’t happen,
Why add the 4 core armoured for future proofing and cut the 2 spare cores off flush? Is it not better to bring them 1" to the longest point outside the enclosure and terminate them them in the enclosure. Also for Hi current DC I would opt for a soldered/ heat shrink joint or inline crimped joint to avoid any possibility of arcing or failure of the Wago compression joint over time. Always worry about plastic embrittlement or just plain mech/install failure of these new joint mechanisms, especially when dealing with high currents or large temperature excursions in roof spaces etc Not a criticising the install by any means as you are normally belt and braces, just surprised you stated future proofing and used these connectors in this install. Alternatively you could have added a Din Rail and mech connected to allow for expansion and routine testing/maintenance
Really interesting video, how long will the plastic cable ties last before they snap, or are they special ones. Looks a really tidy job.
If they're under the panels they should be fine for the duration of the installation, its uv light that destroys the plastic so as long as they're not in direct sunlight they'll be good
@@superblackbirdrider Hi, I’ve found that the plastic becomes brittle with the constant change from hot to cold temperatures and eventually snap at the tension points. Wondering if there was anything better available.