I very much enjoyed your videos. Yours were the best on the tutorials I have viewed. It was difficult to find good videos showing how to make this type of stained glass window. Thank you.
Alex your videos are really good. You are very clear and explain things. I have really enjoyed watching them. Also l will be returning back to them for follow up advice. Thank you so much from a novice, Pat
This is a great video and really helpful. I wonder, however, if the final bit where you are applying the copper loops could have a little closer camera application as I would like to see how this is done. I have been 'doing' stained glass for a couple of years now and attach my copper in a different way but would like to try your method. Thanks
This was an excellent series that you did. You were very detailed and did an excellent job explaining each step. I did a few pieces of stained glass years ago, so this was a great refresher for me. I learned how to do stained glass from Khiem Pinkhasik who moved to the US from Russia in about 1980. He is a master glass artist and he has 5 pieces of his stained glass arkwork at the Navy Pier Museum in Chicago, IL, USA.
Thanks, I'm glad the videos are helpful. In answer to your question most machine made coloured glass is 3mm thick, handmade glass tends to vary. The width of the lead channel is 5mm. Very occasionally when using a thick handmade glass you will need to use a nova tool to widen the lead channel.
If your glass is still too wide for the lead after opening the lead channel up with a nova tool and you can't get any wider channelled lead, there is a trick you can use. You will need some carpenters pincer type pliers which are often used for removing nails from wood. You can use these to carefully squash the heart of the lead, increasing the size of the channel. As a last resort you can even split the heart in places. We have to do this sometimes when using some types of handmade glass where the glass thickness varies wildly across a sheet.
I'm wondering: would you use copper foild framed or led framed windows (not too big ones) for a winter garden where leakage is not an issue. The thing is the copper foil with led on top can be more detailed and delicate in the design, but I wonder how long it would widstand the elements in any case. The biggest mirror I did ever with copper is 100x80cm, but that stays indoors of course.
Can I ask a question? If so, any tips for when the solder drips down on to the glass? How to pick it up without melting the lead or cracking the glass? I'm very rusty with this, I used to be able to manage it but I can't remember all the tricks.
an old video but can you use Bostitch 8 oz Orange Chalk for chalk lines in the construction trade for the whiting to have a different color for the cement?
I've found this video really, really helpful Alex. Thanks ever so much. I've learnt so muchMy only question is, I know you mentioned synthetic bristle brush early in the clip. Is that OK for all of the stages and also, would all stages be OK with average hardness of bristles?
Thoroughly enjoyed your excellent video. You said it should be cooler than normal and I would like to get a rough idea of the temp of your iron tip. I have a 60 watt with an adjustment in the handle controlling the temp from 250c to 480c, and is it possible to use lead free solder?
We use 50-50 solder in the studio here. that's half lead and half tin. Stick to that, it works well. How to set your iron will depend on the model and how quickly you work when soldering (if you are quick you can get away with a hotter tip). If you find you are melting the lead came turn it down a bit, if the solder is not flowing freely enough turn it up a bit until you find the right level for you.
Yes I always cement even if the window will not face the elements, it strengthens the window and looks better. If you do not cement then the edges of the glass inside the lead channel can catch the light and become quitter noticeable.
Thank you for this video. I wonder what you used for polishing your panel after cementing. You did say, but I didn't hear it well. I would also like to know what material it is. I'm from HUngary, and I usually can't get things you have in the UK or USA... I've already had quite a few problems when trying to find what material I should buy here in my country to reach the same output. So if you can help me with the ingredients of your polish please let me know. Thank you!
Eva Baranyi-Hi..I use the same as the guy in the video..It is 'Black Grate Polish'..It used to polish bare metals to a nice shine..I hope this helps you..
Have I missed a step? After applying the cement, shouldn't I push the lead down to the glass, and then get the pointy stick out?This film didn't show this.
You can run over the lead to flatten it out but do not push the lead right down to the glass. You need a small gap there to get the leadlight cement into.
Absolutely wonderful!❤
I very much enjoyed your videos. Yours were the best on the tutorials I have viewed. It was difficult to find good videos showing how to make this type of stained glass window. Thank you.
Alex your videos are really good. You are very clear and explain things.
I have really enjoyed watching them. Also l will be returning back to them for follow up advice.
Thank you so much from a novice,
Pat
These are really good Alex. Thank you so much!
Thanks! These are the best leadlight videos on You tube. Well done!!
This is a great video and really helpful. I wonder, however, if the final bit where you are applying the copper loops could have a little closer camera application as I would like to see how this is done. I have been 'doing' stained glass for a couple of years now and attach my copper in a different way but would like to try your method. Thanks
This was an excellent series that you did. You were very detailed and did an excellent job explaining each step. I did a few pieces of stained glass years ago, so this was a great refresher for me. I learned how to do stained glass from Khiem Pinkhasik who moved to the US from Russia in about 1980. He is a master glass artist and he has 5 pieces of his stained glass arkwork at the Navy Pier Museum in Chicago, IL, USA.
Excellent videos Alex and very informative.. Thanks :)
Alex I must say....great videos. Keep up the good work. Thank you for sharing....From Kiwi.
Excellent videos
Thank you for a lovely video. The website tho is a bit difficult to navigate and the shop-display of your work and materials are impossible to find.
Excellent teaching videos. Many thanks, I'm new to stained glass so this was most informative for me. Many thanks,Jean, Frankfort, KY USA
really enjoyed this series of videos. Will definitely be having a go just to see what the end result is. thank you for sharing. 😊
Thanks for this series of videos. I really learnt a lot.
Would you use the same process restoring 12th century church windows?
Brilliant videos .I have some glass jewels ,but they seem to wide for the lead even after opening up with tool help!
Thanks, I'm glad the videos are helpful. In answer to your question most machine made coloured glass is 3mm thick, handmade glass tends to vary. The width of the lead channel is 5mm. Very occasionally when using a thick handmade glass you will need to use a nova tool to widen the lead channel.
If your glass is still too wide for the lead after opening the lead channel up with a nova tool and you can't get any wider channelled lead, there is a trick you can use. You will need some carpenters pincer type pliers which are often used for removing nails from wood. You can use these to carefully squash the heart of the lead, increasing the size of the channel. As a last resort you can even split the heart in places. We have to do this sometimes when using some types of handmade glass where the glass thickness varies wildly across a sheet.
Excellent series and clear explanations. What thickness glass do you use and what is the width of the lead channel that it fits into?
Thank-you for your very informative videos. I appreciate the information over much.
Very informative- and I could listen to that accent all day ;)
I'm wondering: would you use copper foild framed or led framed windows (not too big ones) for a winter garden where leakage is not an issue. The thing is the copper foil with led on top can be more detailed and delicate in the design, but I wonder how long it would widstand the elements in any case. The biggest mirror I did ever with copper is 100x80cm, but that stays indoors of course.
Thanks...AND it would be great if you had a couple more CLOSE-UPS,,,
Can I ask a question? If so, any tips for when the solder drips down on to the glass? How to pick it up without melting the lead or cracking the glass? I'm very rusty with this, I used to be able to manage it but I can't remember all the tricks.
an old video but can you use Bostitch 8 oz Orange Chalk for chalk lines in the construction trade for the whiting to have a different color for the cement?
Whats up with the swastika glass panel at the very end🤔
I’m hoping that was a commission for a Buddhist or Hindu person, as it is a legitimate religious symbol, stolen and defamed by the nazis.
I've found this video really, really helpful Alex. Thanks ever so much. I've learnt so muchMy only question is, I know you mentioned synthetic bristle brush early in the clip. Is that OK for all of the stages and also, would all stages be OK with average hardness of bristles?
Thoroughly enjoyed your excellent video. You said it should be cooler than normal and I would like to get a rough idea of the temp of your iron tip. I have a 60 watt with an adjustment in the handle controlling the temp from 250c to 480c, and is it possible to use lead free solder?
We use 50-50 solder in the studio here. that's half lead and half tin. Stick to that, it works well. How to set your iron will depend on the model and how quickly you work when soldering (if you are quick you can get away with a hotter tip). If you find you are melting the lead came turn it down a bit, if the solder is not flowing freely enough turn it up a bit until you find the right level for you.
Enjoyed your videos!
Thanks for the vid!
Wish there were a few close-ups!
If you are doing small pieces like sun catchers (not windows) do you cement as well?
Yes I always cement even if the window will not face the elements, it strengthens the window and looks better. If you do not cement then the edges of the glass inside the lead channel can catch the light and become quitter noticeable.
Thank you for this video. I wonder what you used for polishing your panel after cementing. You did say, but I didn't hear it well. I would also like to know what material it is. I'm from HUngary, and I usually can't get things you have in the UK or USA... I've already had quite a few problems when trying to find what material I should buy here in my country to reach the same output. So if you can help me with the ingredients of your polish please let me know. Thank you!
Eva Baranyi-Hi..I use the same as the guy in the video..It is 'Black Grate Polish'..It used to polish bare metals to a nice shine..I hope this helps you..
Great videos thanks
Have I missed a step? After applying the cement, shouldn't I push the lead down to the glass, and then get the pointy stick out?This film didn't show this.
You can run over the lead to flatten it out but do not push the lead right down to the glass. You need a small gap there to get the leadlight cement into.
I wish that he gave the recipe for the cement :p
More close up views would e more handy