AAC Know The Ropes: Cleaning An Anchor In Single Pitch Climbing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2024
- Like all climbing AAC education resources, cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting has some simple principles that will help climbers find a technical solution to most common anchor-cleaning scenarios. Our most recent Know the Ropes video reminds climbers that anchor-cleaning should ideally be a principle-based procedure because:
The hardware on the tops of cliffs can vary wildly
The stances vary quite a bit
The tools climbers have available can vary too.
These principles will guide viewers to appreciate how safety systems work, how to be more efficient, and how to communicate effectively when cleaning. That kind of perspective helps us analyze our decision making and solve problems in adverse/unexpected conditions.
View more Know the Ropes resources here: americanalpineclub.org/best-p...
Learned a lot from the comment section explaining the various ‚little‘ and ‚big‘ mistakes in the video.
I have a concern about the video. When she is rappelling, her rappel system is never fully weighted until after she has disconnected her connection point to the anchor. I find it much safer if you fully weight the rappel system before disconnecting from the anchor. In this video, her rappel system is never fully weighted until she unclips herself and leans back on her system. I acknowledge that you mention to double check everything but double checking everything by eyeballing it is way less safe than weighting it while still in direct. In this video, she has to pull up on the chains to create slack in her direct connection to the anchor. I would reconsider if you want beginner climbers, learning how to clean an anchor from this video!!
Agreed. Weighting the rappel system and confirming it holds body weight before detaching your tether is very important.
Otherwise a very good video
Thanks for watching, Scott and Rich! That might be a part of double checking your system, and if that works for you, that's great. We'd suggest to you that visually and physically inspecting the critical links provides adequate verification of the system you are about to transition to. Your body weight check might give you some peace of mind, but physical and visual checks is how you are more likely to discover a problem and be in a position to do something about it.
Yeah, I never transition to rappel like they show here. I always have the belay rig take the weight first. In this interest, i use the leg loop as my autoblock attachment and I don't extend the rappel. This allows me to test my rappel through the length of my tether. I test the rappel twice, then unclip tether at the end of my second test.
exactly my thought Scott, i don't think it's safe
I recognize that lowering through fixed gear is fairly standard practice in well-maintained areas for the goal of minimizing accidents, though personally I prefer repelling for two reasons: 1) It keeps wear on the fixed gear to a minimum and 2) keeps me in practice for when I NEED to rappel. Every skill I will need to accomplish my goals I want to keep in practice for.
I view what this video teaches as a safety-minded shortcut that is only relevant to single pitch climbing in well maintained areas.
Thank you for posting this video. I took your course a few years back and I am always worried I might forget something. This makes sure that I won't. Y'all rock, I plan on seeing you this year for next "Craggin Classic".
So glad you enjoyed this video! We look forward to seeing you at a Craggin Classic!
I have some remarks. Allthough some may seem like nitpicking, if you make an instructional video regarding safety, you should do it thorough all the way through:
1:44 no checking of a knot in the end of a rope? This is not the subject of the video, but i think it's important enough to include this (since the video is definitely also aimed at novices)
2:18 Seconding the pitch as the most standard scenario? Cleaning after leading a pitch (so while lowering) is more common and a safer option
2:38 Proper way of taking in slack?
3:18 Mentioning the most common situation, but no further information regarding different scenarios?
3:32 Why is it necessary to clip into both karabiners? The essence of this way of cleaning is that your rope stays your safety the entire time (the usage of a quickdraw without locking karabiners as a lanyard supports this idea), so clipping into both karabiners is kind of unnecessary?
4:00 Messy knot
4:21 the climber asks for tension, but manually takes off her weight to unclip the quickdraw. This reveals that this setup is far from ideal. The quickdraw should have been longer so the entire weight of the climber could have been transfered on the rope before unclipping the quickdraw, thus testing the new system before removing your safety.
4:23 allthough the climber is still attached with the original knot, double checking the system after it has been weighted is kinda silly. The climber should make the visual checks before transferring the weight
8:12 Once again (and this time more severe): the personal tether is unclipped before the new system is weighted. Before removing the personal tether, you should check your new system (by transferring your weight on it) AND check if your friction knot works properly (moving + stopping). The demonstration in the video is an example of how it shouldn't be done.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! We hope this link answers some of your concerns: bit.ly/2pm54Ed
If one line between being ridiculously over-safe and efficient. Sounds like you probably are able get about two or three pitches a day with this line of obsessive saftification. To each their own I guess.
AmericanAlpineClub Link does not work...
I think the knot at the belayer end to close the system is critical for any lowering system as it is one of the most common accidents in the ANAM. But it might be even more important with this cleaning method especially on long routes that might be at the limit of a rope's length since probalby more than 10 ft more gets used up vs untying and retying in. I might be mistaken but maybe this method might have contributed to this accident : publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214942/Lowering-Error-Rope-Pulled-Through-Device-No-Helmet . i think this method is still good as the default way for cleaning for lowering and several friends use it, but definitely tie a knot at the belayer end!
semmtexx If that is the pitch you were going to die on because of your lack of care for the system preserving your life, have at it. Become a statistic. Execution is 2/3rds prep always. Prepare well, learn proper systems, and you will climb well.
Informative and helpful for new folks. They do need help. I would agree that she should weight the rappel before unclipping. Details matter here. I include this detail in my mental check list when I rappel.
Great vid. Just one thing, she never weighted or tested her Belay/Rappel, ATC Device. How could that be done in the way your demonstration was done? Thank you.
Thank you for posting this video. I've added it to my Alpinism playlist.
Thanks David!
Last bit on the rappelling needs to be completely redone.
1. The climber has anchored a locking biner into a non locking biner which defeats the purpose of the locking biner. The only saving grace is that it would appear they clipped into two non locking biners with opposite gates (6:18).
2. However the climber should not have anchored into the quick draws in the first place. They should have anchored directly into the hangers or chain. Read Point 4.
3. The climber has pulled slack up on the same side of the system that is tied into their harness (6:35). That forces them to leave the rope through the two quick draws. Had they pulled up rope on the opposite side, once tied off they could have pulled the rope through the quick draws thus making the system cleaner and easier to clean. Either that they forgot to unclip the rope from quick draws.
4. The climber has anchored into the quick draws which are clipped into the last chain links (6:50). Once the rope has been feed through and weighted unclipping the the quick draws will be a PITA. They should have clipped directly into the bolts like they did in the lowering example (3:40) thus leaving the chains free. Or at least clipped into links above the last link.
5. Step 10 was a complete FUBAR (8:10). The climber should have had their weight on the rope, of course they could not because the rope and biners were in the same chain link with the rope above the biners. But even if not, once they are ready to release their teather from the anchors they should have had their brake hand on the damn rope!!! not using two hands to unclip.!! Yeah there was an autobock but that is for when things go wrong.
6. When unclipping the quick draws they should have first unclipped them from the rope first then the chains. Once unclipped from the chains they have to reposition they hand to undo the gate. Perfect chance to drop them. Of course had they done point 3. this would be moot.
All in all this example is a really very very poor. Too many mistakes!!
Allen Sanderson i
While I agree with the methods in the video for the most part, I wish there were less editing cuts and the actions were performed more slowly. It would really help for following the steps more easily.
thank you! I was thinking the same thing. Keep stylized cutaway edits for cooking videos where I don’t need to see every piece of onion diced… In this case, I absolutely wanted to see continuous frames.
I have something to add as well; I was taught that lowering/rappelling off of chains was never kosher due to added wear on the chains as well as the chains not being rated. Thoughts?
Robbiesrk I was taught that you weren't supposed to be belayed/Lowered down off the chains, but if you repel yourself the ropes don't move so there is no added wear to the chains.
Safety comes first, always. Lowering is safer than rappelling under the following situations:
-Steep or overhanging route where cleaning on the way down would be made dangerous by rappelling. It's dangerous if the climber needs to stretch or swing around while rappelling in order to reach the quick draws and remove them. The brake hand might be tempted to come off while swinging or making a far reach to the draws. It's not as dangerous when lowering since the belayer is in control.
-Climber is new to cleaning and is overly focused on the act of removing draws and so forth rather than on both rappelling and cleaning. Good to learn one skill at a time to avoid deadly mistakes.
Rappelling is safer when:
-Lowering would cause the rope to drag over sharp edges on the wall and put the rope at risk of cutting
If you're competent at rappelling and cleaning AND the route isn't overhung, then rappel to save wear and tear on the fixed gear. Otherwise, if the situation would be made safer by lowering then don't worry about wear on the fixed gear. Go ahead and lower and then donate a few bucks to whoever maintains the gear in the area.
Safety first.
So in this case, where none of the situations you mentioned apply (not overhung, she cleaned the draws on the way up, etc.), rappelling would have been fine, assuming she's competent, and lowering is putting unnecessary wear on the chains.
Govanification Sure... but this is a tutorial. They probably just went to wherever was convenient to film.
Even so, many crags' etiquette is to lower whenever possible. I don't know if this is one of those crags or not, but it doesn't really matter because, again, they were probably just going wherever was convenient and well lit to shoot the video.
always lower unless the crag has recommended otherwise. Rappelling is the single most dangerous thing in any climbing because you come off belay, and in sport climbing like this, only one person is doing the exchange from belay to respelling and therefore is not double checked. You wouldn’t and shouldn’t climb without double checking your partner before going up, but rappelling forces that on the way down. This video also should demonstrate how MORE communication is needed. Never take someone off belay when they call it. Double check that’s what they meant and ask if their system has been weighted without the belay to be absolutely SURE they are ready to come off the rope. Also, It costs a few bucks to replace chains or rap rings and quality crags need new ones when the old wear out. Donate to whoever runs the crag if you climb there often. Better to be safe than die.
What does "fee fee in and floss the anchors" mean?
name of some band they're listening to while they're climbing
@@bimjeam0088 love that band
why are your gri gris attached on the narrow end of your carabiners? Its recommended by petzel to use on the wider side.
As long as the carabiner is loaded along the main axis it's not going to be a big deal. With that said, I tend to use asymmetric D carabiners with my grigri for this reason.
You guys do a great job of explaining!
Thanks for watching, Cole!
Why would the climber that is cleaning using the second method shown, clip the backup knot to their accessory loop with the other quick draws? I know this is a "what if" scenario but aren't those loops very weak in the case of an accident?
There is no problem doing that, because she is not relying on the rope at all. She is just preventing that the rope won't fall to the ground after she untied herself.
Great video!
Thank you!
Why connect to the quickdraws and not the bolts directly?
That's definitely an option if the climber has 2 tethers or something like a chain-link-style PAS that can attach to both. The downside is that it's usually more clutter & gear.
Redundancy is far more important with the gear you don't control - the fixed bolts. The gear you brought (anchor materials, carabiners, sling) are materials with known history & thorough inspection, so redundancy there is far less important. It's the same reason climbers are okay with lowering with the belay loop as the only attachment.
I was always told to go in direct by clipping the PAS into the bolt. Is there any reason why I shouldn’t? In the video, the climber clipped the PAS into the anchor point.
Just want to better understand the train of thought
I'm a novice, but in another video I watched, they mention not trusting your life to a single piece of gear that you don't own. Clipping directly into the bolt is trusting that single bolt, whereas clipping into the anchor is relying on two bolts.
If you do go in direct to the anchor you should clip into both points with your PAS (possibly with the help of a quickdraw connected to the middle of your PAS) or two nylon slings . The reason to do it the way suggested by the AAC is to simplify, remove steps that allow for mistakes to happen.
You need redundancy too. One locker isn’t redundant. Just like you wouldn’t top rope on one locker you shouldn’t come off belay into one locker even if it’s the master point.
@@zraybroske2416 I think this is too dogmatic. The climber in this video lowered with one locking carabiner on the belay loop. Using 2 carabiners for the master point is just as much to reduce the wear on the rope with a less-severe bend angle.
I object on 2 points for the first scenario. 1) all anchors aren't large enough to feed a doubled rope through it. 2) it is hard on the permanent anchor to lower someone like they did.
It sure is hard on the gear, but safe on the climber. Donate to the crag so it can be replaced. It’s safer to be lowered. Every year, the number one cause of climbing death, even by the best most experienced climbers, is rappelling. 30% of all accidents.
Not a huge fan of this video. I do understand that it is fairly common to do it this way but I much prefer to build an anchor out of cordlette such as a quad, always use some sort of personal anchor system rather than a quick draw, and also being belayed off the repel rings increases wear in them so I always repel so there isn't a rope rubbing them down. This is just my 2 cents, I do realize that the video shows a lot of common practice and is moderately safe, but I feel like there is better ways to do it.
americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/3/15/5ipkouk0id07cgc3dqks4fljnsgnx6
Very confusing video. At the 4:50 min point, she is cleaning the anchor off of the linkages connected to the bolt hangars. Previously, the locking carabiners were connected to the bolt hangars themselves. Attention to detail is important when teaching someone how to clean an anchor.
I see a lot of mistakes and others details that can be improved.
When you watch a video with more than 10% negative opinions, it is very possible that it is not a good option.
In my channel recently posted how to clean a anchor, although it is not in English and I do not explain much, I think it is understood.
Regards
Why does the narrator have a mouth full of ramen noodles
The first cleaning method, where your belayer lowers you off, is pretty straight forward. But climbers teaching themselves the rappel method off of TH-cam videos is how climbers die.
Get someone experienced to teach you, in person.
that is right, no way a climber should rappel without a real training. Personally I practice rappel on ground at my place before each beginning of a climbing season. In the video I don't see her applying tension on the rappel system to make sure it at least holding your weight and works ok by letting go for few inches down, I try to do that all the time, not always easy in some situation but look safer in my opinion, if something is wrong at least you still clipped with your landyard or any other device used.
6:33 What NOT to say. Use your belayers name and say TAKE ME OFF belay. Off belay can mean anything, and could be said by anyone. Especially if you are not the only people around this particular crag. Accidents have happened because of this confusion.
Really surprised AAC puts out a video like this
Eeww... clean that figure 8 up.
TripleTapHK A knot not neat is a knot not needed.
Dude has marbles in his mouth. Kept thinking he said "accident plan". Also, need to have a plan before the cleaner starts the second pitch? What second pitch? Wasn't this a single pitch climb?
NEVER attach a carabiner to another carabiner, which is exactly what she is doing when clipping the third quickdraw to the quickdraws attached to the pinots. Also by attaching the carabiner of the third quickdraw to the pinot quickdraws she is forming a triangle which unnecessarily increases the forces on the quickdraws and the pinots. Even worse is that she is clipping the quickdraws over the chains instead of underneath them. If they are over the chains the bending torque on the carabiners will break them if she falls hard.
You can attach carabiners together. It’s perfectly safe just like attaching a carabiner to a bolt. It’s not unsafe unless you clip more than 3 together and they twist. AMGA says it’s perfectly safe.
Agree that they should not be attached above the chains.
Don't trust your life to Chinese home depot chain links, at least go through the rated twist-close ones. Bring some with you on your harness and leave them there if there aren't any.
0:39 I have to say "minimizing communication with the belayer" seems like horrible advice.
Teaching people to lower through the chains is terrible advice. The friction from the rope will wear out the chains and make them unsafe for future climbers. There are far too many crags that do not have the funding or maintenance available to constantly replace the chains. If the concern is new climbers repelling then teach them to back up the rappel with a prusik, but don't teach people to place extra wear on the gear of small crags.