Excellent video, currently doing a full restoration on a 1990 defender 110, just on the back tub just now and going to replace both back 1/4 panels now after seeing your video
That back panel looks better than mine!! Can’t see why you’re changing it. Spent a week panel beating out the rhs. Reversed into a fast growing tree. Don’t ask. It’s ripply but basically back to where it was. Took the opportunity to straighten the galv trim and repair some previous lesser damage. I’ll try that sealant next time. I used gutter sealant, stays flexible, probably not dissimilar.
It really wasn't in bad shape and if it was just a daily driver I would of had no worries leaving it but as this is a full restoration it needs to be as good as I can get it if I left it I would see every imperfection. im a bit ocd like that I have to do the best job I can 👍🙂
Fair enough. I take it it for someone else? I had to put some pops in to mine, I’d prefer a n original panel with factory spot welds but horses for courses. If mine was perfect I’d never drive it through undergrowth ever.
It's going to be sold when its finished. like you said I would never drive it if I kept it I prefer something I can put through its paces without crying after. When its done you should only see 2 extra rivets the rest will be covered unfortunately spot welders trip my electrics every time. I can't wait to get back into a proper workshop soon hopefully.
Have you tried a power file, Evolution Power Tools Precision File Sander, 400 W (230 V), screwfix part number: 54960, 10 pack of 40 grit belts are around £3. I've stripped a few old Land Rovers, a 10 pack of belts is enough to get the body off. When you can't split nuts with a 1 mm cutting disc, use the power file to grind the bolt heads off. Works wonders for rivets, variable speed and much safer to use.
Sounds like a familiar accent, I’m guessing Nottingham. I was thinking Along the same line with the tiger seal but I was hoping not to rivet the seat box bit and just glue it. Thanks for the other tips.... nice wheels
I've done another video that might be of interest using hammer rivets and adhesive to secure the panels that way you can hide the rivets with a thin skim of filler. 🙂👍
Hi, great videos thanks for doing them. I’m just about to replace the rear quarter panels and tub cappings on my 110 csw. Hope fully this has given me the confidence to do them as you have made it look easy!! 😎 I take it the cappings are similar with drilling out the old rivets and setting the new cappings in?
Hi, it's more or less the same process there's a few rivets, nuts, bolts and spotwelds in different places but that's about it. Best of luck with the job and thanks for watching 🙂👍
I normally do atleast wear eye protection but its surprisingly easy to forget when making videos. I will try and make more of an effort in future. Thanks for watching 👍
Thanks! I think it would be difficult to do it without removing them as you have to remove the galv body cap to do it, but you could unbolt the sides from the tub and just lift the roof and sides together a few inches to give you enough clearance to remove the galv cap. 🙂👍
Thanks👍, once everything like the number and reflectors are fitted you will only be able to see 1 maybe 2 extra rivets per side so I'm not to worried about it when I get a new workshop I'll be able to use a spot welder without tripping the electric every time. Apparently this stuff does a good job if it doesn't work its easy to pull the panel and refit some times you need to try products to see if they work.
@@retro.restorations Have you got a proper aluminium spot welder or do you use a steel one with a thin strip of metal between the contacts and the aluminium panel?
No need to drill the pin just take the top off the rivets and use a punch to pop the last bit out, or if you're careful with a grinder you can graind the tops off and punch them through. 🙂👍
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Excellent video, currently doing a full restoration on a 1990 defender 110, just on the back tub just now and going to replace both back 1/4 panels now after seeing your video
A tricky thing to repair is a Landy backbody. Good job squire!
Thank you 👍.
Great tip for locating a tub replacement. I have to replace that and the the rear angle bracket. Still researching.
Thanks! 🙂👍
That back panel looks better than mine!! Can’t see why you’re changing it. Spent a week panel beating out the rhs. Reversed into a fast growing tree. Don’t ask. It’s ripply but basically back to where it was. Took the opportunity to straighten the galv trim and repair some previous lesser damage. I’ll try that sealant next time. I used gutter sealant, stays flexible, probably not dissimilar.
It really wasn't in bad shape and if it was just a daily driver I would of had no worries leaving it but as this is a full restoration it needs to be as good as I can get it if I left it I would see every imperfection.
im a bit ocd like that I have to do the best job I can 👍🙂
Fair enough. I take it it for someone else? I had to put some pops in to mine, I’d prefer a n original panel with factory spot welds but horses for courses. If mine was perfect I’d never drive it through undergrowth ever.
It's going to be sold when its finished. like you said I would never drive it if I kept it I prefer something I can put through its paces without crying after.
When its done you should only see 2 extra rivets the rest will be covered unfortunately spot welders trip my electrics every time. I can't wait to get back into a proper workshop soon hopefully.
Have you tried a power file, Evolution Power Tools Precision File Sander, 400 W (230 V), screwfix part number: 54960, 10 pack of 40 grit belts are around £3. I've stripped a few old Land Rovers, a 10 pack of belts is enough to get the body off. When you can't split nuts with a 1 mm cutting disc, use the power file to grind the bolt heads off. Works wonders for rivets, variable speed and much safer to use.
I did have a air powered one but it broke and I've been meaning to replace it for a while so I'll look into that.
Thanks for the suggestion👍
Sounds like a familiar accent, I’m guessing Nottingham. I was thinking Along the same line with the tiger seal but I was hoping not to rivet the seat box bit and just glue it. Thanks for the other tips.... nice wheels
I've done another video that might be of interest using hammer rivets and adhesive to secure the panels that way you can hide the rivets with a thin skim of filler. 🙂👍
What's the tailgate opening measurement? I just want to make sure I'm adjusting the width correctly.
Hi, great videos thanks for doing them. I’m just about to replace the rear quarter panels and tub cappings on my 110 csw. Hope fully this has given me the confidence to do them as you have made it look easy!! 😎 I take it the cappings are similar with drilling out the old rivets and setting the new cappings in?
Hi, it's more or less the same process there's a few rivets, nuts, bolts and spotwelds in different places but that's about it. Best of luck with the job and thanks for watching 🙂👍
Great video but no eye or ear protection using that grinder....madman! 😂
I normally do atleast wear eye protection but its surprisingly easy to forget when making videos. I will try and make more of an effort in future.
Thanks for watching 👍
What do you do with those 2 inner corner rivits on the new panel?
Great video do you have to have the roof and window stripped to be able to replace it ?
Thanks! I think it would be difficult to do it without removing them as you have to remove the galv body cap to do it, but you could unbolt the sides from the tub and just lift the roof and sides together a few inches to give you enough clearance to remove the galv cap. 🙂👍
Is diamond plate used often when replacing floor tub?
Sometimes yeah it's was easier to get hold of and stronger. I always replace with original. 🙂👍
I like your work but have you not thought of using correct panel boding adhesive to avoid using rivets? as the do spoil the panels look.
Thanks👍, once everything like the number and reflectors are fitted you will only be able to see 1 maybe 2 extra rivets per side so I'm not to worried about it when I get a new workshop I'll be able to use a spot welder without tripping the electric every time. Apparently this stuff does a good job if it doesn't work its easy to pull the panel and refit some times you need to try products to see if they work.
@@retro.restorations Have you got a proper aluminium spot welder or do you use a steel one with a thin strip of metal between the contacts and the aluminium panel?
Hi, never having used a spot weld drill before, what size should I buy. Need to do this job on my land rover.
Regards
Dave
Hi, I think its around 8mm. 🙂👍
Maybe a stupid question, but which type of drill didn't you use to drill the capping off? 5mm carbide?
I use a standard 5mm drill, you only need to take the aluminium top off the rivets 🙂👍
@@retro.restorations Thank you. You were able to drill the steel pin without it wandering?
No need to drill the pin just take the top off the rivets and use a punch to pop the last bit out, or if you're careful with a grinder you can graind the tops off and punch them through. 🙂👍