The word you are looking for is probably An "Artisan". (as in a Master in the craft of Metallurgy, with an beautiful aesthetic twist to it, beyond just it's basic functionality)
Lovely job! When you left the chuck key in for a moment I was transported back to my days at Brighton Technical College and the look on the lecturers face when my fellow apprentice turned on the lathe and launched a chuck key!
In my uni, for the big, busy shops where the required lab classes are, they have springs on the chuck keys so you can't leave them in. Kind of annoying sometimes, but it definitely works in terms of safety.
Experience is a great teacher. These pieces are quite big and easy to cast but if your casting pieces that have holes or small cavities you need to make sure the investment fills them up completely when you pour it. I overcome this by painting investment on the wax sprue tree with a small paint brush. In this way you can make sure all the holes and cavities are filled before you pour in the investment. The key thing is to avoid spending hours trying to file off and drill the casting.. Works a treat for me...
We like small here to watch you and learn these making techniques. We love metal cast work videos from Australia, England Wales and even here in the US we never tire of watching this craft. Centrifuge, we love this it really is neat to watch, though we do not see often enough. Very nice results, thank you. Lance & Patrick.
Lo vi durante muchos años a mi padre hacer este trabajo. pero usando cera para los modelos.( El cual me enseño) .Verlo a usted hacer lo mismo con estas pequeñas piezas es emocionante. Muchas gracias . siempre muchas gracias. I saw my father do this job for many years. but using wax for the models (which he taught me). Seeing you do the same with these little pieces is exciting. Thank you . always thank you very much.
OMG, this is the cutest casting process and miniature parts I've ever seen. You are a pro. I had to subscribe to your channel to keep watching your marvelous work. Thank you for sharing👍👍😊.
I'm very impressed with the quality of your diy spin casting technique. I will be using your method very soon. Thank you for another wonderful presentation!
without speaking out of turn, I would assume the equipment to perform centrifugal casting is much less involved as compared to a vacuum process. I believe that dentists have used this technique to create very detailed crowns among other castings. Using 3D printed patterns is amazing and the fact that his burn-out went so well is spectacular. I would love to see more details about his process.
Wow...Nice finished product and a great video! I was holding my breathe though as you changed bits with that lathe chuck spinning. Only takes a fraction of a second to get a sleeve grabbed by that chuck, even for an experienced machinist.
I'd say you have that centrifuge down. The detail on those parts was precise. You could clearly see the 3D printed layer lines and all. The hand-wheels look fantastic.
amazing, that would have to be the best casting technique I have seen to date, I have done centrifugal casting in the past but spinning the casting on its own axis. very very nice work!!!!
Sir, you do very fine work. The production of these small doc's are the best. I do wish you would talk to us. I think your video's would be just that much better if you were to explain how and why things were done as you do them. Your video's about your knowledge and the sure confidence you show too all us about what, how and why is appreciated . Again thank you for showing the world your vast skills.
You gotta balance and shield that centrifuge or it's gonna be chasing you around the shop! You come running out of there wearing nothing but your asbestos nickers, and people will start to talk, and not in a good way! I was half expecting your brass to flow back into the crucible when it slowed way down. But all turned out well. You have a wonderful gift when it comes to moving parts, my friend. I like how you simplify everything without compromising form or function. My great flaw is that I tend to over-build my prototypes, and then after numerous mods are required... i get burnt-out at the mess of it all and end up quitting before things get perfected. Anyway. You done good, and i learned from your hard work. Thank you. There's just one suggestion i'd like to make. Would you mind speaking up a bit? I can't hear you at all! 😶
These castings are coming out really well. You've probably come across it, but a nice way to make small handles & knobs is to part off short lengths from heavy-wall tube and solder 6 of them around a central boss.
Add a cup of dish washing liquid - just plain old no nothing bargain stuff - into a 5 gallon bucket of drywall mud as well. It has exactly the same effect, FAR fewer bubbles in your finish coats. Bubbles in drywall mud are a pain in the ass because they never show up until you start sanding and it puts holes in your finish that you now have to put another top coat on... Dunno if it bothers you seeing the layer lines on finished parts but you can decrease your layer height. For super fine stuff that I create I'll take the layer height all the way down to .03, you can hardly tell it was printed at that resolution. Sure it takes a while longer but many modern slicers let you set different heights so you can change it for the connected arm that gets cut off.
I'm thinking that since you are bound and determined to go as cheap as possible, that you make a vacuum setup using the venturi principle and the faucet in your shop to draw the vacuum and a large pickle jar as the bell jar, in order to do a good and proper de-bubbling and then use the venturi vacuum again, along with a sheet of rubber and ano to make a vacuum caster. along with a plate of aluminum covered with a sheet of rubber to serve as a vacuum casting machine. It's much save than that spinning wheel of death that you have created, and it produces better castings. Thanks for the video. It was fun.
I'll stick with the death wheel. It works well. There will be a more stable base and guard to come. I have tried vacuum de bubbling with jar and fridge compressor but the results from the soapy water and vibrator were best.
Thank you for sharing, excellent video as always. Perhaps you could put some concrete anchors into the floor and bolt the centrifugal caster down on the floor? When not in use you could just unbolt it and store it elsewhere (just make sure to stick a bolt or something in the holes so they don't clog up). Did you have to loctite the hand wheels to keep them from spinning off? I thought from the video that you were gonna broach them square or something.
oh so thats what the spinny thing in my school metal shop is for! my teacher told me it was for casting but i could never figure out what it did before now
Beautiful! I'm trying to figure out why the crucible and mould was held at an angle before the start of the centrifuge started though. To make space for working?
For such detailed parts I would recommend to use an MSLA 3D printer with so called "castable resin" (which is a special resin for lost resin casting). Those printers are not expensive anymore (see Wanhao D7 or Anycubic Photon). I really like your videos - lots of insider information. Thanks for sharing!
No, it is lost while burning out. It is somewhat similar to the PLA shown in the video. You create the model, you print it out, then you make the mold and burn out the resin. It is just specially formulated to leave as little ashes as possible. But it is specially designed for burning out. Note that it is for small parts only. Original use is mostly for jewelry casting (rings or similar).
You have knowledge of pattern making and casting well beyond most who utilise printers and you mechanical insight must steer you towards a certain build type of FDM machine. If you had to choose one which would it be? And no homemade numbers!
Nicely done. The centrifuge works well.👍 It'll be a while before I try spinning molten metal in a DIY machine. Explaining why my neighbor has metal splattered through their window is not a conversation I want to have. 😔
You could have a separate shield that goes over the whole thing (on a piano hinge, half a pipe). That would ensure it doesn't go anywhere. That's how old centrifugal casting machines were setup, obviously on a much bigger scale. Since they can now pressurized the material, i think they went away from it.
a vacuum pump, yes. :) i'll be buying one soon, don't want to build one. once the resin is poured in the mould, sometimes they'll put the whole thing into a pressure pot to get even more bubbles out.
Simple solution. After pouring the investment into the flask I put it on my fretsaw table which vibrates and tap out the bubbles with a stick. Its free and works...
Why did you use a spinning method vs just pouring in? And why didnt the molten brass come flying out the open sides as it was spinning?? Johnny 5 needs input...
Centrifugal force pushes the metal into the small sections. The metal would not flow into the small sections if it were just poured in. Swing a bucket of water over your head and none will come out.
Thats really cool.. thank you for the info . And yes the quietness of your video I feel creates the brain to focus more attention to detail . As words are being processed through body movements and the task at hand ..very comforting...
@@myfordboy There seem to be stereolithography machine armed companies out there offering this process. Like this one: www.stratasysdirect.com/applications/investment-casting-patterns/3d-printing-foundries-stereolithography Maybe the Anycubic Photon machine would allow you to make your patterns with better resolution and more representative detailing than an FDM machine. I note that the valve hand wheels you have made, beautifully detailed as they are, are flat on the top, as they are printed with that surface on the bed. With an SL machine, you'd be free to add all the representative radii to any edge on the model, and they would be reproduced. They're not expensive machines. Also, I note from other channels on YT who demonstrate investment casting with PLA and other polymers, that they vent the burnout ovens by leaving the door open during burnout. They have found that the burnout vapour is damaging the oven refractory and elements if the oven door is left closed. Great work as usual. Many thanks.
Brilliant work there as always, one question I would like to ask you is , when you was a lot younger and I presume you liked steam powered objects then. Did you ever think you would have the facilities and resources to build them from the a single scrap material aluminium, or in this case brass, I’m very impressed by your workmanship and followed you on TH-cam channel for over the past year or two, and I would like to wish you all the very best wishes and health for the many more years to come.....Phil
I have always been interested in making things. I was brought up with Meccano. I made model aircraft and later RC cars. I am more interested in making than playing. I reached as far as I could with those models and model engineering was the ultimate model making. No internet back then, I taught myself from books and magazines. I wanted to make everything so that's when the casting came in, again taught from books. I also enjoy the new technology and it's supplemented the pattern making.
myfordboy you have done really well, I wonder how many youths would like to do the same as you, not many I guess. Anyway thanks again for sharing your talents,
When you said the plaster was mixed with water did you use the water mixture with the soap in it because it looked like the same container if it’s not the soap water but the same container do you have to make sure there is absolutely no soap left in it or does it not really matter
that plaster really adds up in $ when you need to cast something huge. Im looking into using concrete or sodium silicate sand injected with CO2 to hardden it.
Really beautiful work. All good, but spinning that tap in, in one shot, and then clamping that little handle enough to turn it, but not enough to crush it? That's having a perfect touch. Was the torch oxy-propane or oxy-acetylene? I suppose either would work, but I'd like to know if it's worthwhile trying oxy-propane as it's easier to get the refils.
Hi. I just subscribe to your channel. I like your videos. I am new at this skill of metal casting. Because I am building a 1/35 Tiger tank all in metal. But I need to make the front drive sprockets and rear idlers in metal. Can the 1/35 sprockets and rear idlers be cast in bronze metal?
Wow, takes some confidence to spin molten brass around like that. Great procedure and fabulous results, master at work.
Your Sir are an artificer of metal. I ALWAYS enjoy these videos.
Has Tubalcain seen this?? Short work ain't his cup of tea, but he would appreciate the craftsmanship.
The word you are looking for is probably An "Artisan". (as in a Master in the craft of Metallurgy, with an beautiful aesthetic twist to it, beyond just it's basic functionality)
Nice to see a 8BA tap in use. Long time since I used that. Now it is metric only. Very interesting to see casting in brass.
finally I can see someone using vibrations to get rid off air from plaster. zillion thumbs up.
The centrifugal machine is working like a charm. I watched your experimental video. Really is wonderful to watch. Thank you .
ever time im looking for some informathion on a project I always find myself back on your TH-cam channel :)
Lovely job! When you left the chuck key in for a moment I was transported back to my days at Brighton Technical College and the look on the lecturers face when my fellow apprentice turned on the lathe and launched a chuck key!
In my uni, for the big, busy shops where the required lab classes are, they have springs on the chuck keys so you can't leave them in. Kind of annoying sometimes, but it definitely works in terms of safety.
Experience is a great teacher. These pieces are quite big and easy to cast but if your casting pieces that have holes or small cavities you need to make sure the investment fills them up completely when you pour it. I overcome this by painting investment on the wax sprue tree with a small paint brush. In this way you can make sure all the holes and cavities are filled before you pour in the investment. The key thing is to avoid spending hours trying to file off and drill the casting.. Works a treat for me...
We like small here to watch you and learn these making techniques. We love metal cast work videos from Australia, England Wales and even here in the US we never tire of watching this craft.
Centrifuge, we love this it really is neat to watch, though we do not see often enough.
Very nice results, thank you.
Lance & Patrick.
That turned out perfect! And just a torch for melting so now furnace required. Thank you for sharing!
Lo vi durante muchos años a mi padre hacer este trabajo. pero usando cera para los modelos.( El cual me enseño) .Verlo a usted hacer lo mismo con estas pequeñas piezas es emocionante. Muchas gracias . siempre muchas gracias.
I saw my father do this job for many years. but using wax for the models (which he taught me). Seeing you do the same with these little pieces is exciting. Thank you . always thank you very much.
i have only seen centrifuge casting with gold, and have had spun cast grey iron, very impressed with this!
AWESOME!!!!! im engineer and i had never seen something like this!!!! the best channel of castings, you are the Granpa-Casting
That was mental! Never would've dreamed to do it like this.
I love your centrifugal casting machine, nicely thought through and beautifully executed as is all your work. Best Regards Sarah
That is such a clever solution to a very tricky problem. Hats off, again!
OMG, this is the cutest casting process and miniature parts I've ever seen. You are a pro. I had to subscribe to your channel to keep watching your marvelous work. Thank you for sharing👍👍😊.
🤯🤯🤯!! I didn’t even know that was possible that was friggin awesome 👏🏻 I’ve never seen that done before well done very interesting😀👍🏻🍻🍻🍻
Nice work indeed. Always amazing what can be done in the shed at home.
It is a wonderful thing you do in sharing your skills for future generations
When I was young we only had 3D printers, none of that biological nanobot crap you spoiled brats have nowadays..
@@nochan99 Hahaha
Not for the first time...... Mind Blown!!! Your my hero.
Wow, those tiny handwheels are awesome!
Awesome video. Changing the tailstock drill bit with the lathe running, wearing long sleeves. You're asking for an injury to happen!
I'm very impressed with the quality of your diy spin casting technique. I will be using your method very soon. Thank you for another wonderful presentation!
since i know very little, i'm curious as to why centrifugal instead of vacuum?
without speaking out of turn, I would assume the equipment to perform centrifugal casting is much less involved as compared to a vacuum process. I believe that dentists have used this technique to create very detailed crowns among other castings. Using 3D printed patterns is amazing and the fact that his burn-out went so well is spectacular. I would love to see more details about his process.
@@MatthewRulla another youtuber setup a vacuum process with using PVC pipe to build a basic vacuum pump pennies.
Simpler equipment and something I wanted to try.
Oh Wow! I love your craftmanship! Your tractor is super cool too!
You have this sorted rather well now. Fantastic results!
This is awesome! You need to add a counterweight to your machine in order to stop the machine from shaking
Wow...Nice finished product and a great video! I was holding my breathe though as you changed bits with that lathe chuck spinning. Only takes a fraction of a second to get a sleeve grabbed by that chuck, even for an experienced machinist.
Always am learning something new as well as being inspired by your vids; thanks for doing what you do and doing it well.
Very good craftsmanship.
I'd say you have that centrifuge down. The detail on those parts was precise. You could clearly see the 3D printed layer lines and all. The hand-wheels look fantastic.
amazing, that would have to be the best casting technique I have seen to date, I have done centrifugal casting in the past but spinning the casting on its own axis.
very very nice work!!!!
Best example of lost wax casting (oops lost PLA) I have seen.Thanks for the fine video.
I liked the red coral you made...
The guy who makes cauliflower probably watched this video (back in the day) . . .
Just Wow (as usual)
Regards from Dublin,
Ruaidhri
Glad to see your Ml10 is full of swarf ... like mine. Excellent video.
estupendos videos tiene usted unas manos, no me pierdo ninguno e aprendido mucho con usted gracias
Sir, you do very fine work. The production of these small doc's are the best. I do wish you would talk to us. I think your video's would be just that much better if you were to explain how and why things were done as you do them. Your video's about your knowledge and the sure confidence you show too all us about what, how and why is appreciated . Again thank you for showing the world your vast skills.
You must be pleased with that. It works really well.
Nicely done.
Pure genious! Little works of art!
Beautifully done, you make it look so very easy, very well done sir!
You gotta balance and shield that centrifuge or it's gonna be chasing you around the shop!
You come running out of there wearing nothing but your asbestos nickers, and people will start to talk, and not in a good way!
I was half expecting your brass to flow back into the crucible when it slowed way down.
But all turned out well.
You have a wonderful gift when it comes to moving parts, my friend.
I like how you simplify everything without compromising form or function. My great flaw is that I tend to over-build my prototypes, and then after numerous mods are required... i get burnt-out at the mess of it all and end up quitting before things get perfected.
Anyway. You done good, and i learned from your hard work. Thank you.
There's just one suggestion i'd like to make. Would you mind speaking up a bit? I can't hear you at all! 😶
Wow they are beautiful! Brilliant method
just beautiful
I see why VegOilGuy likes your channel enough to repeatedly give you an honorable mention. 🙂
Fascinating all the things you do i like watching your shows 🏅🏅🏅
These castings are coming out really well. You've probably come across it, but a nice way to make small handles & knobs is to part off short lengths from heavy-wall tube and solder 6 of them around a central boss.
Yes I have used that method on other models.
Add a cup of dish washing liquid - just plain old no nothing bargain stuff - into a 5 gallon bucket of drywall mud as well. It has exactly the same effect, FAR fewer bubbles in your finish coats. Bubbles in drywall mud are a pain in the ass because they never show up until you start sanding and it puts holes in your finish that you now have to put another top coat on...
Dunno if it bothers you seeing the layer lines on finished parts but you can decrease your layer height. For super fine stuff that I create I'll take the layer height all the way down to .03, you can hardly tell it was printed at that resolution. Sure it takes a while longer but many modern slicers let you set different heights so you can change it for the connected arm that gets cut off.
Well done, very nice work!!
Chris
A thing of beauty!
Very inventive. Well done!
great another thing i want to build and try out. this is genius.
I'm thinking that since you are bound and determined to go as cheap as possible, that you make a vacuum setup using the venturi principle and the faucet in your shop to draw the vacuum and a large pickle jar as the bell jar, in order to do a good and proper de-bubbling and then use the venturi vacuum again, along with a sheet of rubber and ano to make a vacuum caster. along with a plate of aluminum covered with a sheet of rubber to serve as a vacuum casting machine. It's much save than that spinning wheel of death that you have created, and it produces better castings. Thanks for the video. It was fun.
I'll stick with the death wheel. It works well. There will be a more stable base and guard to
come. I have tried vacuum de bubbling with jar and fridge compressor but the results from the soapy water and vibrator were best.
Awesome intuitive skills though I did back away from my screen when the centrifuge ran up, molten metal on a workmate scary stuff!
You and Myfordboy, you didn’t see him on screen did you. Just left his camera to record any mishap. Regards
I was well out of the way. A shield will be the next addition.
12:00 Very good install !
Super robota! Pozdrowienia od fana z Polski.
Excellent! Thank you for sharing!
Greetings from Alaska.
gracias por compartir tu conocimiento
That machine is terrifying. Imagine the crucible cracking while it's spinning up... that'd be bad.
It is an electric lawnmower isn't it? :D
you are simply a master!!! Love your vids!
Thank you for sharing, excellent video as always. Perhaps you could put some concrete anchors into the floor and bolt the centrifugal caster down on the floor? When not in use you could just unbolt it and store it elsewhere (just make sure to stick a bolt or something in the holes so they don't clog up). Did you have to loctite the hand wheels to keep them from spinning off? I thought from the video that you were gonna broach them square or something.
I was wondering how he prevented the wheels spinning off also.
The wheel has a thread an there is a lock nut on the spindle.
I had thought of the anchor idea, I may try that.
Impressive.
Curious to know if you are considering adding a splash shield (ring) in the path of accidental flying molten metal
That will be the next addition, and a more rigid mount.
Wow, so cool. So methodical and meticulous. Great video. Cheers. : )
Many thanks Mr Myford. Inspiring.
Clever, as always.
i love how quiet Myfords are
oh so thats what the spinny thing in my school metal shop is for! my teacher told me it was for casting but i could never figure out what it did before now
Beautiful! I'm trying to figure out why the crucible and mould was held at an angle before the start of the centrifuge started though. To make space for working?
I am copying commercial models. I believe if the arm were rigid the metal would be thrown out on start up rather than into the mould.
@@myfordboy Aaaah, right... I see it now. Because of rotational inertia in the molten metal. Thanks for explaining!
For such detailed parts I would recommend to use an MSLA 3D printer with so called "castable resin" (which is a special resin for lost resin casting). Those printers are not expensive anymore (see Wanhao D7 or Anycubic Photon). I really like your videos - lots of insider information. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the info! Do you know whether you can reuse the castable resin or how does it work?
No, it is lost while burning out. It is somewhat similar to the PLA shown in the video. You create the model, you print it out, then you make the mold and burn out the resin. It is just specially formulated to leave as little ashes as possible. But it is specially designed for burning out. Note that it is for small parts only. Original use is mostly for jewelry casting (rings or similar).
It seems like the old days of lost wax casting for rings and jewelry may be numbered.
Thats one way of getting liquid metal to go where you want it, wonder if it makes the metal more dense? if thats even possible?
Density is an innate property of the metal. Centrifugal casting just makes sure the molten metal shoots up into the small spaces in the mold.
You have knowledge of pattern making and casting well beyond most who utilise printers and you mechanical insight must steer you towards a certain build type of FDM machine. If you had to choose one which would it be? And no homemade numbers!
I have tried 8 different printers, the one I use all the time and recommend is this one th-cam.com/video/r8MSrjP816k/w-d-xo.html
Nicely done. The centrifuge works well.👍
It'll be a while before I try spinning molten metal in a DIY machine.
Explaining why my neighbor has metal splattered through their window is not a conversation I want to have. 😔
You could have a separate shield that goes over the whole thing (on a piano hinge, half a pipe). That would ensure it doesn't go anywhere. That's how old centrifugal casting machines were setup, obviously on a much bigger scale. Since they can now pressurized the material, i think they went away from it.
@@aserta Could use an old washing or drying machine locked on spin cycle as a starting point. Most assembly is done and comes with shield.
Would love to see you do a casting video with 2 stroke stuffings cylinder head! Seems he's having a lot of issues and can't get it quite right.
good job
been led to believe resin moulding people apply vacuum to assist in removing of bubbles...
steam ejector pump?
a vacuum pump, yes. :) i'll be buying one soon, don't want to build one. once the resin is poured in the mould, sometimes they'll put the whole thing into a pressure pot to get even more bubbles out.
Simple solution. After pouring the investment into the flask I put it on my fretsaw table which vibrates and tap out the bubbles with a stick. Its free and works...
... you're the man ...
Why did you use a spinning method vs just pouring in? And why didnt the molten brass come flying out the open sides as it was spinning?? Johnny 5 needs input...
Centrifugal force pushes the metal into the small sections. The metal would not flow into the small sections if it were just poured in. Swing a bucket of water over your head and none will come out.
Thats really cool.. thank you for the info . And yes the quietness of your video I feel creates the brain to focus more attention to detail . As words are being processed through body movements and the task at hand ..very comforting...
Very Impressive !
Could you tell me what torch you use to melt brass that quick please
I have a Sievert propane torch with set of different size nozzles.
Is the resin used in the other type of laser cure 3D printers suitable for investment?
I don't know but I would think not.
@@myfordboy There seem to be stereolithography machine armed companies out there offering this process. Like this one: www.stratasysdirect.com/applications/investment-casting-patterns/3d-printing-foundries-stereolithography
Maybe the Anycubic Photon machine would allow you to make your patterns with better resolution and more representative detailing than an FDM machine. I note that the valve hand wheels you have made, beautifully detailed as they are, are flat on the top, as they are printed with that surface on the bed. With an SL machine, you'd be free to add all the representative radii to any edge on the model, and they would be reproduced.
They're not expensive machines.
Also, I note from other channels on YT who demonstrate investment casting with PLA and other polymers, that they vent the burnout ovens by leaving the door open during burnout. They have found that the burnout vapour is damaging the oven refractory and elements if the oven door is left closed.
Great work as usual. Many thanks.
Great video!
have you tried to do the crucible out of a pla print and some silicon moulding?
No. I don't think silicone mould would withstand the temperature of brass. l see no advantage.
@@myfordboy i meant to say, 3d print the crucible, make a silicon mould out of it, and in this, pour plaster to make a new crucible xD
No point in making a crucible they are cheap .
@@myfordboy lucky you
Brilliant work there as always, one question I would like to ask you is , when you was a lot younger and I presume you liked steam powered objects then. Did you ever think you would have the facilities and resources to build them from the a single scrap material aluminium, or in this case brass, I’m very impressed by your workmanship and followed you on TH-cam channel for over the past year or two, and I would like to wish you all the very best wishes and health for the many more years to come.....Phil
I have always been interested in making things. I was brought up with Meccano.
I made model aircraft and later RC cars.
I am more interested in making than playing. I reached as far as I could with those models and model engineering was the ultimate model making. No internet back then, I taught myself from books and magazines. I wanted to make everything so that's when the casting came in, again taught from books.
I also enjoy the new technology and it's supplemented the pattern making.
myfordboy you have done really well, I wonder how many youths would like to do the same as you, not many I guess. Anyway thanks again for sharing your talents,
When you said the plaster was mixed with water did you use the water mixture with the soap in it because it looked like the same container if it’s not the soap water but the same container do you have to make sure there is absolutely no soap left in it or does it not really matter
I used the same container. Just tipped out the soapy water and added the plaster. You did not see it because I forgot to turn on the camera!
Thanks for sharing !
That was nice.
At min 4:48 , is it ceramic fiber?
Yes it is.
Will you be able to do the watch envelope in this way?
Watch envelope?
Well. I feel stupider than normal now. You just did about four things I hadn't thought of yet.
What type of glue were you using to glue the parts together?
It's polyweld from 5 star adhesives.
@@myfordboy thank you. Greatly appreciate your help.
@Estefi thank you. Does that work for PETG also?
I just tried some for you and no it does not stick PETG.
@@myfordboy drats! I primarily use PETG and haven't had much success with gluing it. Thank you for going out of your way to check on this method.
that plaster really adds up in $ when you need to cast something huge. Im looking into using concrete or sodium silicate sand injected with CO2 to hardden it.
I use that method for core making. You can see it in my other videos.
@@myfordboy the concrete or sodium silicate method?
th-cam.com/video/3c4--yQMc-0/w-d-xo.html sudium silicate and silica sand
@@myfordboy thanks a lot!
What is that glue for PLA?
Polyweld from 5 Star adhesives.
Think you ....you are the best
When you going to get a vacuum pump for this stuff?
Really beautiful work. All good, but spinning that tap in, in one shot, and then clamping that little handle enough to turn it, but not enough to crush it? That's having a perfect touch. Was the torch oxy-propane or oxy-acetylene? I suppose either would work, but I'd like to know if it's worthwhile trying oxy-propane as it's easier to get the refils.
The torch is a Seivert propane one. No oxygen.
Great to see how you seem to have it perfected now. Did you make the rest of the engine?
I made all you see.
Hi. I just subscribe to your channel. I like your videos. I am new at this skill of metal casting. Because I am building a 1/35 Tiger tank all in metal. But I need to make the front drive sprockets and rear idlers in metal. Can the 1/35 sprockets and rear idlers be cast in bronze metal?
I would think that is quite possible.
some good tips on your channel even for an engineer like me