@@borivojetravica569 I was also thinking that. I've seen it in a couple of previous videos & wondered what / how internal wall thickness is controlled?
I just notices grooves routed on the inside of the cope and drag to help hold the sand in place as you move them and turn them upside down and stuff. Excellent! FYI you make it look easy.
These videos are just so good, thank you. You have this down to a science...cad to pattern to mold to machining. No time or cost wasted on anything that doesn't add value to the part. Links to all the hard to find stuff and you're answering everybody's questions. I've seen old videos on how they made the big V-12's, Alison and Merlin's. All the different cores that they used. Completely confident you could just build one of the damn things by yourself if you had the time and the giant furnaces.
Continue to always enjoy your casting and machining videos in particular. Now with the pattern made from the 3d printer and seeing the whole process - just excellent. Always admire your work myfordboy and thank you.
Remebering my youth and finding ignorance is bliss.... i used to cast aluminium using the lost wax process... no degossing flux, no sodium carbonate... (I did know to use a coathanger to get the paint off the molten aluminium from the cans I used) made some cool things .... and didn't die or become maimed so that is a plus.
Thank you for sharing your high skill with the world. I am sure that you have helped many people to master the craft of the caster. You are a very good teacher! Thanks you.
Hello! Man that printer is the whip! I goof around around casting in my shop and build custom one off gas caps for fancy vehicles. I and make the patterns out of wood by hand and after watching you make that foam pattern I may have to consider a printer! Thanks for sharing your talent fordboy you make it all look easy !
@@myharris I have had a lot of stuff From Banggood including several printers in large parcels. Only once did I have to pay custom duty. In theory it's due on purchases of £15.00 but the parcels come through OK. I think it depends on which carrier they use. The one I paid for came by TNT. Others came by Parcelforce and regular mail.
Could you do a video where you cast two identical parts, one using the degassing step and one without? I would love to see the impact on the final product.
He actually has an earlier video where he doesn't degas the metal, I don't recall the reason. Perhaps expediency. The part did not turn out so he had to start again. It resulted in voids in the casting.
like WillieRants said, it will result in a lot of usually small voids. sort of looks like negative bubbles... or like the part had very been badly rusted then cleaned.
I've looked over most of your projects. ..a very capable lad, you are. Me thinks it time you build something truly useful. How about a half scale Vickers MG?
Thanks for all the tips! Sharing my two cents for protecting my own "Fashion Gear" against dirt and water and to keep them supple: Melt 55% (of weight) of beeswax, add 45% ATF. Let cool and rub the pink "soap bar" onto the suede - use sunshine or hairdryer to melt it, then massage it in. Not my recipe - just reading and deciphering the MSDS: "Skidmore’s products are made using the finest ingredients nature can provide, derived from trees, plants, and insects." Ah yes... -They forgot to mension fossils. DIY the stuff instead of wasting 11 USD for 6 oz... Keep up the good work! Regards from DIYSwede
This video is an older one, but it occurs to me that instead of cutting the ingate, would it not be simpler to add one to the 3D model, and print it as an integral part? Seems like it would be cleaner and save a step. Thank you for all the effort put into your channel.
You need to check my other videos here are a few, there are more showing the finished castings. th-cam.com/play/PL53C0387F6D848CB2.html th-cam.com/play/PLHUJDLlTM_9XoID8BlalHLr9z9rZCIwgg.html th-cam.com/play/PLHUJDLlTM_9XNJLcy0r1d4M6cr_vOHIkk.html th-cam.com/play/PLHUJDLlTM_9UC0NaVAD9ZOi04g0xuu_mo.html
@@borivojetravica569 The core is supported by the shape left in the sand . Details here myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/metal-casting-tips-and-faq.html video here th-cam.com/video/sIBQWh-1eYk/w-d-xo.html
Under what circumstances do you NOT use a riser, such as in this video? Also, I think that your use of 3D and sand casting is inspirational in that it illustrates a practical use for 3D.
@@myfordboy Only half of the space was used for the actual mold and the other half of the space was filled by the "sand plug" that rested on the walls of that half of the space, so that part held the plug centered if I saw right. That at the same time centered the plug and it protruded into the actual mold to create the space when it was removed, right?
Great video with the whole process clearly shown from stem to stern. Except, I was a little unclear, how did the core get placed suspended in the center of the mold such that it didn't touch the sides (thus causing avoid in the casting)? Thanks.
Yet again a fascinating video with a superb end result. One question, how does the core remain exactly central iot guarantee wall thickness? It appeared that you simply placed it in the open mould & that was it? Surely the core must be in direct contact with part of the external surface?
Looking very dapper there with your new safety apparel, tell us has the missus been watching some of your early shows per chance? I know that I am pulling your leg but it’s better to be prepared for any eventuality...👍👍
Sorry for the dumb question.....Is the small hole the vent, or just a blemish in the sand? Why do you sometimes use a tall vent tube (similar to the fill) and in this case not? Thank you.
Not dumb. The small hole is to vent the core as it could give off gasses and push the metal away from the mould. The second tube I use is generally to feed metal into the mould as the metal shrinks as it cools. Not needed on small castings.
I couldn't find anywhere that this had already been asked. What do you do to compensate for material shrinkage? Do you slightly enlarge your STL files before slicing and exporting the g-code?
@@myfordboy Thanks! follow up question, I never thought about it previously, but are most 'alloy' wheels about the mix of material? Or do you source the same brand /type of wheels to keep the castings consistent? Thanks again!
Please look here for a detailed description of how cores are located. myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/metal-casting-tips-and-faq.htm and this video th-cam.com/video/sIBQWh-1eYk/w-d-xo.html
yes, it will not be easy, I did spend time in small foundry casting aluminum, I was just a helper, the guy who ran the place spent most of his life at, acadia gas engines, they made boat engines, hit and miss, he was a good guy and loved to talk.
Hi fordboy, I'm newby in foundry. I have some questions, hope you can help ;) 1. Do you oversize the part in the 3d cad? If you have 40mm as diameter in real part, do you set 40.4 mm for casting? 2. How large is the diameter of the casting channel (the vertical pipe)? 3. How much time do you wait to open the casting? Do you keep the foundry's flame on or do you shut off (I wonder if you have a faulty casting, you cast again immediately or later days). Thanks, Teo
You can either increase the CAD model by 2% or keep the model full size and print it out at 102% The internal dimension of my furnace are 11.25" dia and 11.25" tall. I can send a plan of this to you if you give me an email. An aluminium mould can be opened in about 10- 15 min. I leave the furnace burning when removing the crucible but i may turn down the flame. You can reuse any faulty castings whenever you like.
Dumb question. I have been curious when you put the core piece in how does it get a consistent thickness all around inside? You just played it in there. To me int would be thinner on the bottom. Does it float and equal out to the middle?
The pattern has reduced section extensions on the end called core prints. When the the pattern is removed the core is held in the correct location, centred in the mould.
Do you recommend this mold/liquid metal pouring technique to mold something like the sheet metal of a car door? is it even possible to use this method for something as thin as a car door??
@@myfordboy Im trying to figure out a way to create a copy of a car panel, but as you know, the metal on a car panel is thin (2 to 3mm). Is there any way you can think that that's possible?? I really want to avoid hammering it out from a flat sheet of metal.
If you want a great free program, use Fusion 360. If your a student or hobbyist you can get it for free. Been learning it and yesterday exported my first Cad file for my CNC. It is also able to export to 3D printer.
What does that part do? It looks like an automotive thermostat housing with a stick shift. I know it is for a bore hole drilling rig, but I can not figure out it’s function. Thanks, Chris
Cheaper and quicker this way. Lost PLA would need 2 prints a lot of refractory and long burn out. One pattern for greensand can make as many parts as I like.
Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists and small businesses, and is far better than most of the cheap low end CAD programs that people used to be using before it came along.
Hi David. What does it do? I have been doing a bit of patternmaking myself for a bloke in the Midlands who sells 3 inch scale traction engine kits. Do you add the 2% shrinkage/machining allowance at the slicing stage or as you are deawing it? I like your snazzy outfit...
The 2% can be added either at the slicer or CAD drawing.I've done it both ways. The part carries a lever that operates a hydraulic valve. Valve is fitted above the flange and the lever operates it.
I am perplexed why a slug with a center was just stuffed with some material into the casting before the base was machined. Nice results, just like factory, probably better.
Please cast a engine block of some kind !!!!!!!! Can it be done at home !!!!!!????? If you have the right equipment. Im a mechanic in oz want to cast a engine block since you can't get older model vehicle engine blocks from the manufacturer . Would make a great video fir youtube to 👍👍👍
I found out from a professional recycler that you never want to add any kind of foil to your aluminum. Its not aluminum and its full of other metals and alloys that will cause your aluminum to be contaminated and have cracks.
@@myfordboy Its what he told me, and he melts all of the aluminum in the county from the recycling trucks. he said its also like the very worst thing for the environment for you to melt and then be around. They add all sorts of toxic stuff to it to make it roll out without tearing. He said throw it away and don't bother melting it if you care about your health.
As a 70 yr old father and grandfather, I'm finding your new fashion trends worryingly attractive!!!
R
Dublin
I love that you're still using that furniture leg as your primary sand tamper. Good on you!
11:00... What bring core in perfect position in all directions to for equal wall thickness?
Watching the "Myford Metal Master" never gets old! beautifully done! Thanks for sharing... Fred Ontario, NY USA
Very good work, I learned a lot from you.
You are the reason why I built my own furnace and made my own casting parts.
11:00... What bring core in perfect position in all directions to for equal wall thickness?
@@borivojetravica569 I was also thinking that. I've seen it in a couple of previous videos & wondered what / how internal wall thickness is controlled?
I just notices grooves routed on the inside of the cope and drag to help hold the sand in place
as you move them and turn them upside down and stuff. Excellent! FYI you make it look easy.
These videos are just so good, thank you. You have this down to a science...cad to pattern to mold to machining. No time or cost wasted on anything that doesn't add value to the part. Links to all the hard to find stuff and you're answering everybody's questions. I've seen old videos on how they made the big V-12's, Alison and Merlin's. All the different cores that they used. Completely confident you could just build one of the damn things by yourself if you had the time and the giant furnaces.
Continue to always enjoy your casting and machining videos in particular. Now with the pattern made from the 3d printer and seeing the whole process - just excellent. Always admire your work myfordboy and thank you.
Remebering my youth and finding ignorance is bliss.... i used to cast aluminium using the lost wax process... no degossing flux, no sodium carbonate... (I did know to use a coathanger to get the paint off the molten aluminium from the cans I used) made some cool things .... and didn't die or become maimed so that is a plus.
11:00... What bring core in perfect position in all directions to for equal wall thickness?
At 6:43 my inner teenager saw an opportunity to question what the part really was. Then the adult in me scolded him and said don't even smirk.
Yes
Thank you for sharing your high skill with the world. I am sure that you have helped many people to master the craft of the caster. You are a very good teacher! Thanks you.
indeed.
11:00... What bring core in perfect position in all directions to for equal wall thickness?
Wow, Thank You love learning techniques with the mill and lathe. I know I only scratch the surface of what mine are capable of.
Hello! Man that printer is the whip! I goof around around casting in my shop and build custom one off gas caps for fancy vehicles. I and make the patterns out of wood by hand and after watching you make that foam pattern I may have to consider a printer! Thanks for sharing your talent fordboy you make it all look easy !
Also check this video of Mr myfordboy.. th-cam.com/video/HVgPM1ojyLw/w-d-xo.html
3D printers are gona be as much part of a foundry as the furnace.
I can recommend the printer I linked to in the description.
@@myfordboy Did you have to pay extra in customs duty with Banggood?
@@myharris I have had a lot of stuff From Banggood including several printers in large parcels. Only once did I have to pay custom duty. In theory it's due on purchases of £15.00 but the parcels come through OK. I think it depends on which carrier they use. The one I paid for came by TNT. Others came by Parcelforce and regular mail.
@@myfordboy Worth knowing, thanks :D
Sweet!
I love watching this stuff!
You're a magician! Excellent result!
Great job! Sometimes I dream someone would ask me to make an obsolete part that someone could make a living off of. Id just do that untill I retire!
Exceptional video, thank you! And *very* natty protective gear as well. That was very clever how you suspended the core. Really excellent!
11:00... What bring core in perfect position in all directions to for equal wall thickness?
Awesome stuff start to finish. Great video.
The only tool you used I have any familiarity with is the drill press. It was great to see it go from 3D CAD to finished product. Thanks for sharing.
It's 7:15 am and still dark, but I'm laughing at the fashion week gag!
Unfortunately there was a spelling mistake.
Definitely the next Ugg boots, and the arm warmers! Well what can I say. Good video as always. Regards
Could you do a video where you cast two identical parts, one using the degassing step and one without? I would love to see the impact on the final product.
He actually has an earlier video where he doesn't degas the metal, I don't recall the reason. Perhaps expediency. The part did not turn out so he had to start again. It resulted in voids in the casting.
like WillieRants said, it will result in a lot of usually small voids. sort of looks like negative bubbles... or like the part had very been badly rusted then cleaned.
I've looked over most of your projects. ..a very capable lad, you are. Me thinks it time you build something truly useful. How about a half scale Vickers MG?
I build what interests me but thanks for the suggestion.
Thanks for all the tips! Sharing my two cents for protecting my own "Fashion Gear" against dirt and water and to keep them supple: Melt 55% (of weight) of beeswax, add 45% ATF. Let cool and rub the pink "soap bar" onto the suede - use sunshine or hairdryer to melt it, then massage it in. Not my recipe - just reading and deciphering the MSDS: "Skidmore’s products are made using the finest ingredients nature can provide, derived from trees, plants, and insects." Ah yes... -They forgot to mension fossils. DIY the stuff instead of wasting 11 USD for 6 oz... Keep up the good work! Regards from DIYSwede
This video is an older one, but it occurs to me that instead of cutting the ingate, would it not be simpler to add one to the 3D model, and print it as an integral part? Seems like it would be cleaner and save a step.
Thank you for all the effort put into your channel.
You can do that but it makes removing the pattern harder and it's more flexible without it if there are several patterns being cast at the same time.
@@myfordboy True. I did not consider multiple castings. Makes sense now.
That was an awesome vid, hope that part fit
Fasnating work pattern making to the final por nice workmanship 👏👏👏😁
I've enjoyed watching a couple of your videos on casting, but it would be nice to see the parts in situ and if possible operational.
You need to check my other videos here are a few, there are more showing the finished castings.
th-cam.com/play/PL53C0387F6D848CB2.html
th-cam.com/play/PLHUJDLlTM_9XoID8BlalHLr9z9rZCIwgg.html
th-cam.com/play/PLHUJDLlTM_9XNJLcy0r1d4M6cr_vOHIkk.html
th-cam.com/play/PLHUJDLlTM_9UC0NaVAD9ZOi04g0xuu_mo.html
@@myfordboy 11:00... What bring core in perfect position in all directions... for equal wall thickness?
@@borivojetravica569 The core is supported by the shape left in the sand . Details here myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/metal-casting-tips-and-faq.html video here th-cam.com/video/sIBQWh-1eYk/w-d-xo.html
Great work as always. They look like OEM to me....beautiful.
Under what circumstances do you NOT use a riser, such as in this video? Also, I think that your use of 3D and sand casting is inspirational in that it illustrates a practical use for 3D.
Small castings don't need a riser. if the casting has thick sections though I may add one to those parts.
Always a pleasure to watch you make it look so easy :) keep up the great videos!! Oh and what was that part for ?
How do you center the internal bore when casting?
The shape left in the sand from the pattern holds the core in the correct position so metal can flow around it.
@@myfordboy Only half of the space was used for the actual mold and the other half of the space was filled by the "sand plug" that rested on the walls of that half of the space, so that part held the plug centered if I saw right. That at the same time centered the plug and it protruded into the actual mold to create the space when it was removed, right?
That's right.
Great video with the whole process clearly shown from stem to stern. Except, I was a little unclear, how did the core get placed suspended in the center of the mold such that it didn't touch the sides (thus causing avoid in the casting)? Thanks.
The pattern has extensions on the ends to make a pocket that holds the core.
Yet again a fascinating video with a superb end result. One question, how does the core remain exactly central iot guarantee wall thickness? It appeared that you simply placed it in the open mould & that was it? Surely the core must be in direct contact with part of the external surface?
I have another video that might expain th-cam.com/video/sIBQWh-1eYk/w-d-xo.html
Nice work. Wish I had that machinery available to me
Very nice! I'm thinking the alloy you used is probably better than the original.
Cheers!
Looking very dapper there with your new safety apparel, tell us has the missus been watching some of your early shows per chance? I know that I am pulling your leg but it’s better to be prepared for any eventuality...👍👍
You have some sort of documentation on how that core was made?
th-cam.com/video/1HuxDVpy_iU/w-d-xo.html
Myford should totally sponsor you.
Did you create the pattern a percent or two larger than the original part to allow for the aluminum shrinking?
Yes 2 % larger
tried that link for greensand, but they dont ship to US.
That lathe part... that's how my cat lost it's hind teeth man!
You should 3D print jigs and fixtures to make secondary machining easier.
Sorry for the dumb question.....Is the small hole the vent, or just a blemish in the sand? Why do you sometimes use a tall vent tube (similar to the fill) and in this case not? Thank you.
Not dumb. The small hole is to vent the core as it could give off gasses and push the metal away from the mould. The second tube I use is generally to feed metal into the mould as the metal shrinks as it cools. Not needed on small castings.
@@myfordboy Thank you for the response, that makes much more sense, I didn't think that through.
Why do you didn't use the lost pla process to get the holes drilled directly? Is it let precise or something like that?
Less*
This part was best sand casted, only one pattern can make a s many as needed.
@@myfordboy okay i see, i think it could be interesting to see you make some videos using this other process 😊
@@jonathanpena3547 How about this one th-cam.com/video/HVgPM1ojyLw/w-d-xo.html
enseñando el oficio de fundidor y prepara el molde para la colada.. y el pre mecanizado y mecanizado de piezas..
cos i am fully deaf subscriber for long time on your channel
I couldn't find anywhere that this had already been asked. What do you do to compensate for material shrinkage? Do you slightly enlarge your STL files before slicing and exporting the g-code?
You could enlarge the model in the CAD program but I find it's easier to print it out at 101.5 -102% in the printer slicer.
@@myfordboy That was exactly my assumption. Thanks!
Hi, when you drew up the model, how much did you add for shrinkage? and in all directions ? Thanks
I have been wondering the same...
I believe it's about 2 or 3 percent for aluminum.
I make the pattern 2% larger than I want the finished part to be. Comes out right for the metal i am using.
@@myfordboy Thanks! follow up question, I never thought about it previously, but are most 'alloy' wheels about the mix of material? Or do you source the same brand /type of wheels to keep the castings consistent? Thanks again!
I have used wheels from many different cars and trucks. They all melt the same and I see no difference in the casting quality.
How do calculate shrinkage for the parts when making the 3D model?
what trick did you used to keep the core floating at the center so it won't touching the wall,
thanks for your response.
Please look here for a detailed description of how cores are located. myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/metal-casting-tips-and-faq.htm and this video th-cam.com/video/sIBQWh-1eYk/w-d-xo.html
I have been thinking about casting, also i'm looking at 3d printers, I have this crazy idea to cast an intake for and old Hemi.
I don't think you'll find a 3D printer big enough other than commercial printers. and you're talking MEGA-BUCKS!
i'm looking at the creality cr-10 s5 500mm by 500mm, and it could be done in half on a smaller machine
@@lawrenceveinotte Good Luck... I think Your hardest part is making the cores and aligning everything up.
yes, it will not be easy, I did spend time in small foundry casting aluminum, I was just a helper, the guy who ran the place spent most of his life at, acadia gas engines, they made boat engines, hit and miss, he was a good guy and loved to talk.
Gościu jesteś Super!
Hi fordboy, I'm newby in foundry. I have some questions, hope you can help ;)
1. Do you oversize the part in the 3d cad? If you have 40mm as diameter in real part, do you set 40.4 mm for casting?
2. How large is the diameter of the casting channel (the vertical pipe)?
3. How much time do you wait to open the casting? Do you keep the foundry's flame on or do you shut off (I wonder if you have a faulty casting, you cast again immediately or later days). Thanks, Teo
You can either increase the CAD model by 2% or keep the model full size and print it out at 102%
The internal dimension of my furnace are 11.25" dia and 11.25" tall. I can send a plan of this to you if you give me an email.
An aluminium mould can be opened in about 10- 15 min.
I leave the furnace burning when removing the crucible but i may turn down the flame.
You can reuse any faulty castings whenever you like.
What kind of mill is that? Nice video. Thank you.
I have a video about my mill th-cam.com/video/jnSlJeYgY2w/w-d-xo.html
Very Nice
Dumb question. I have been curious when you put the core piece in how does it get a consistent thickness all around inside? You just played it in there. To me int would be thinner on the bottom. Does it float and equal out to the middle?
The pattern has reduced section extensions on the end called core prints. When the the pattern is removed the core is held in the correct location, centred in the mould.
@@myfordboy ok thanks
Do you recommend this mold/liquid metal pouring technique to mold something like the sheet metal of a car door? is it even possible to use this method for something as thin as a car door??
You won't be able to cast something that thin unless it's really tiny.
@@myfordboy Im trying to figure out a way to create a copy of a car panel, but as you know, the metal on a car panel is thin (2 to 3mm). Is there any way you can think that that's possible?? I really want to avoid hammering it out from a flat sheet of metal.
Sheet metal like this is done with bending rolls and an English Wheel.
Hey mate, was just wondering about the 3D Cad software you were using & the version ... cheers
viaCAD idk version though
It's ViaCad 2D/3D v8
@@shortmicheal Thanks Michael ...
@@myfordboy Thanks mate appreciate it ... great channel ...
If you want a great free program, use Fusion 360. If your a student or hobbyist you can get it for free. Been learning it and yesterday exported my first Cad file for my CNC. It is also able to export to 3D printer.
You are the best tanks for all
That was brilliant thanks for sharing .
I want a r polycast review. Those folks should be mailing you free filament by the truck load.
Hi I was wondering what size cutting tools you are using on the ml10? thanks
My 4 way tool post take 6mm tool holders. i use CCGT tips with a 0.2mm tip radius.
Thanks
You forgot the tall pointed hat for your "FASION" week.
как говорят у нас в России, у вас золотые руки!
How did you learn to use the caliper? Great video too!
Good quality calipers come with instructions.
Very good video, thank you.
What does that part do? It looks like an automotive thermostat housing with a stick shift. I know it is for a bore hole drilling rig, but I can not figure out it’s function. Thanks, Chris
It carries a lever that operates a hydraulic valve. Valve is fitted above the flange and the lever operates it.
myfordboy Thanks for the explanation. Chris
Hello. What alloy do you use for casting?
It's alloy car wheels.
@@myfordboy Thanks. You are doing very well, I still have to study and study to such a level
great video. what did you material did you make the core from?
Sand and sodium silicate like shown here myfordboy.blogspot.com/p/core-making.html
How big do you normally make your pattern to allow for shrinkage?
The patterns are made 2% larger for aluminium castings.
Thank you
Why did not use the lost PLA method, since you have the part printed anyway?
Cheaper and quicker this way. Lost PLA would need 2 prints a lot of refractory and long burn out. One pattern for greensand can make as many parts as I like.
@@myfordboy Yes, you are right..
Will sodium bicarbonate work as de gassing agent as well?
Probably not.
Sir would you make a video on software? Like some favorite softwares for 3D printers and cnc machines and so on. Thank you in advance :)
Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists and small businesses, and is far better than most of the cheap low end CAD programs that people used to be using before it came along.
Hi David. What does it do? I have been doing a bit of patternmaking myself for a bloke in the Midlands who sells 3 inch scale traction engine kits. Do you add the 2% shrinkage/machining allowance at the slicing stage or as you are deawing it? I like your snazzy outfit...
The 2% can be added either at the slicer or CAD drawing.I've done it both ways.
The part carries a lever that operates a hydraulic valve. Valve is fitted above the flange and the lever operates it.
i need a part about this size and can 3D print it but i just dont have the setup you do to cast 1 part
If the pattern is ready to go I may be able to help.
Great casting! Are you using Petrobond or a home made sand?
Neither. The link to the sand is below the video.
What do you mix with sand?
Greensand is a natural clay bearing sand. Sodium silicate mixed with core sand.
God bless you
How do you make green sand Sir
My sand is not home made but a natural sand. it can be made by adding around 10% bentonite clay to silica sand.
I've always wanted to do home casting but I just can't find that chair leg.
Actually it's a staircase spindle, maybe you have one of those?
Staircase yes, but no balusters. Perhaps I could remove a tread and whittle that down some?
Hello what cad software are you using cheers
ViaCad 2D3D
@@myfordboy sorry for my delayed response. Cheers for the info
mmm what happen to close caption(CC) cos you use to put on for hard of hearing subscriber ????
I am putting details as subtitles on the video.
I want to see the part in action!
What type for soil
Not soil. Clay bearing sand.
Out of interest, what rig is that part from?
I did not see the rig only the broken part so i don't know.
I am perplexed why a slug with a center was just stuffed with some material into the casting before the base was machined. Nice results, just like factory, probably better.
The bar gave some extra support as the overhang was long. I used some paper to roughly centre the bar whilst I tightened the tailstock.
Me gustaría ser su alumno.Cuanto aprendería!!!.Saludos.
I saw a casting video made in So. E. Asia and they were wearing shorts and flip flops. Look at the money they saved !
Life is cheap out there. If a guy gets injured they just get another!
Cost of part?
They were made for a friend.
The "mute" knocks another one out of the park....
Very well
You think anyone else will come looking for that part in the future?
Please cast a engine block of some kind !!!!!!!! Can it be done at home !!!!!!????? If you have the right equipment. Im a mechanic in oz want to cast a engine block since you can't get older model vehicle engine blocks from the manufacturer . Would make a great video fir youtube to 👍👍👍
gracias gracias gracias
I've decided myfordboy must be in Australia rather than the UK like I had originally thought.
No, UK.
Okay, I stand corrected. Must be having unseasonable weather over there or video taken earlier this year.
It's mild for the time of year. The casting was done last week.
¡EXCELENTE!
I found out from a professional recycler that you never want to add any kind of foil to your aluminum. Its not aluminum and its full of other metals and alloys that will cause your aluminum to be contaminated and have cracks.
Never had any issues like that.
@@myfordboy Its what he told me, and he melts all of the aluminum in the county from the recycling trucks. he said its also like the very worst thing for the environment for you to melt and then be around. They add all sorts of toxic stuff to it to make it roll out without tearing. He said throw it away and don't bother melting it if you care about your health.
that shape was quite simple-should of machined it.
i would hacd
Please upload a video showing how to machine this from solid.
awesome awesome briliant