Thank you Pete for all the great machining content that you've put out over the years. You're one of the guys who inspired me to become a machinist and I've enjoyed this career ever since I set foot in my first shop.
Yes, the bearing is, depending on the bought quality, around 0.007mm up to 0.011 mm smaller than the nominal diameter given by specification, so it will have a guaranteed press fit on a Ø35js6 shaft. The metric IT-tolerance system is absolutely genius but i think, hard to adapt if you need to convert it to imperial. For snug fit (correct translation?) the shaft is turned to h6, for loose fit to f6. I absolutely have no idea, if there exists a similar system in imperial measurment?
Thanks sir for everything you are teaching online I just started my Career in machining and your vedios are very informative and valuable to me especially in times when machine shop owners don't teach much because of automation.
Man i wish i could learn in person from someone like you. You seam like a wizard with machining. Im a rookie but i have my own machine that im trying to learn on! Some day ill get there keep up the awesome videos.
Spindle design and manufacture is a very interesting topic - thanks for showing. I would think that hitting the required tolerances without grinding can be difficult, at best… Would really like to see the final product when you are done.
Grinding is done not only for precision but usually the spindle shafts are hard as fuck after hardening and grinding is generally a good process for finishing hardened parts
If I wake up filthy rich, I'm going to buy a complete set of those lab-grade ceramic blocks and put it under glass in a coffee table, just so I can admire the fact that they exist. Nice job on the spindle and planning of it and the video too.
Those ceramic blocks are a bit of a pain owing to the different thermal expansion characteristics. I think their real value lies in their durability. Tungsten carbide ones are a closer to steel but very durable also.
With those rapids, I wouldn't have anymore fingernails. Interesting pecking motion on the cutoff tool. You should have affiliate links for all of these items in your description to help with the cost of the video. Apologies if you already mentioned this, but were those spring passes to get to the final dimensions?
No I set the tools offset to leave stock and take cuts to the finish size. You can’t really take spring passes on steel without ruining the finish. You have to take a certain amount of material in steel to have a good finish.
*Summary* * *0:07:45* The host is building a spindle and needs to measure bearings to determine the shaft dimensions. * *0:08:17* Using gauge blocks and a dial bore gauge, he measures a 35mm bore bearing and two 40mm angular contact bearings. * *0:10:23* He discovers the actual sizes of the bearings are slightly smaller than their nominal dimensions. * *0:27:41* He carefully machines the shaft on a Mazak lathe, focusing on concentricity and precision. * *0:38:10* Due to the close fit required for the bearings, he polishes the 35mm section on an engine lathe for a better fit. * *0:39:04* The 40mm sections were machined within tolerance on the Mazak. * *0:39:43* He test fits the bearings on the shaft, ensuring they slide on properly. * *0:40:05* He explains the final assembly process, showing how the bearings, spacers, nuts, and washers will all fit together inside the spindle housing. * *0:46:50* He notes that he still needs to grind the spacers to their final thickness for proper bearing preload. I used Google Gemini 1.5 Pro to summarize the transcript. Cost (if I didn't use the free tier): $0.2416 Time: 102.02 seconds I added a 60 second delay to prevent a rate limit of the free tier. Input tokens: 67477 Output tokens: 518
This bearing's part number the P4 at the end indicates a ISO Class 4 running accuracy and P4Y Special Class. But in their description of that part number they also indicate that inside and outside diameters are controlled by NSK and all other tolerances are per ISO Class 4. What ever that means. So I thought I would check for Myself for what I needed. Thanks!
We may not be able to see the measuring tools as well as you would like us to, but it's OK. We trust you. You have never lied to us in the past, and I don't think you are going to start now. I can't imagine who I would trust more.
Have you compared the measured actual value of the inner ring (1.57465) with the laser engraving on the inner ring of the 40 mm ball bearing? It should then show a -4 if your measurement was exact.
@@EdgePrecision The first value is the average deviation from the target value of the inner ring and the second value is that of the outer ring (in micron).
@@hwacheon4169 That’s coming up. We plan to clean the tank and do some work on the chip conveyor. But this tank holds 300 gallons of coolant. So it’s not an inexpensive job to change coolant. With the coolant and disposing of the old coolant.
Hi Peter, I was interested in seeing how you chamfered the hole on the radius. I've experienced issues with this, and I've seen other machinists just use a straight on approach which lease an uneven champer. This area doesn't get addressed much and it can really mess up a part.
@@beansandtoast3433 Yes that would be best for absolute accuracy. And I would say that would be true if you had a large gauge with extensions going deep into a bore. But for these small gauges I have not noticed a difference from the weight of the gauge. Especially if you are holding it by the plastic insulating handle in the middle of the stem (as you should be). It is almost balanced like that.
No these are automatic doors. If they were manual doors yes. You can take the key that engages the switch off the doors and leave it in the switch. Making the control think the door is always closed. But with these auto doors, they are operated by air cylinders each having limit switches on each end. Plus there is the normal key switch/lock on each door. So not only is the control looking for those key switch/locks but it is also looking for the air cylinders switches. If they open or close with the key switches and even the time it takes to do so. So there is a sequence each door has to go thru every time they open and close. If it doesn’t make all the switches in the right order and the correct timing (with in limits) it gives an alarm.
Be nice to see a picture of the whole assy and it purpose - since it is an idea you suggested to save Centreline buying expensive tools. Its understandable if you cannot show that at the discretion of Centreline. Just curious thats all. Nice end result and precise.
Good morning Peter , now I might not know the background history of this project. I do know however you do make a lot of your own tooling rather than ordering online. My question is, in the beginning of a bid do you figure into overall cost your time and material of all of the items you produce for these jobs? I’m very curious to hear your thoughts. Once again thank you for these in depth videos that let us dive into your process and method of machining. All the best
They (Centerline) are running these titanium parts on the large Okuma vertical mill. They were looking at purchasing a bunch of 90 degree heads to do these machining operations on that machine. A very expensive option. I suggested I could do this on the Mazak if we built this spindle/fixture to reach into the slot/pocket. This should cost less then all those 90 degree heads. And be more capable then the 90 degree heads (we will see but I think so!). So this is the way we decided to go. I didn’t quote these parts so I can’t really answer that part or your question. But this is only part of a very complex job. Thanks!
What’s your opinion on cheap and cheerful vs super expensive measuring equipment. Are there somethings you just won’t compromise on ? And others you’d say a cheaper one is fine?
@@Wyllie38 In general most of your expensive stuff is made in the same place as the cheep stuff just rebranded. That said the mic I show in this video is a Fowler brand. In general I would say don’t buy cheep measuring tools. It is false economics. My first pick would be a Mitutoyo brand. I also don’t like digital tools in general except for certain things. Like depth measuring tools. Indicators mics calipers bore gauges. I prefer mechanical dials for these type of tools.
@@viorelmatei4877 On the first rough boring cycle I was trying to run it with out coolant for the sake of the video. Some of the shavings got in front of the bar in the bottom of the hole. It made a bad sound (oddly the cameras mic didn’t pick this up) so when the bar came out of the hole. I pushed feed hold. You can see in the video the red hot shavings on the tip of the bar. But it didn’t do any damage to anything (fortunately !!!). Running coolant would have prevented this from happening.
So 2 to 3 tenths under bering size for proper fit and why the hesitation at the end of the thread does that create a undercut instead of pulling out for a normal thread just curious and the way you set up your gage blocks and mic is how I've done it for 40 years good info thanks for sharing
In the came software I had a chamfer at the thread end that caused this. I didn’t realize that until running the program. But it was simpler just to run it that way (I don’t usually do that on a thread on this machine). I will change that for the other part.
The issue here is to get the shaft part running true to the ID of the tool connection. What could be done is to machine the shaft part between centers and then hold that in the chuck and machine the tool connection bore. But even doing that you cant really tell what the end of the shaft is doing back in the chucks bore. Only where it sticks out of the jaws. Actually the absolute best way would be to leave the finish machining on the tool connection end to later after it is all mounted in the spindle itself. Turning it in it's own bearings so to speak. I did consider doing it this way but it is more difficult because I would have to mount my finishing tools in the main turning spindle to do so. Doable but more difficult. Maybe I will wish I did it that way later. We shall see. Thanks!
All standard plunger style dial indicators large needle turn clockwise when compressed the smaller needle (If the indicator has one) that counts the revolutions of the large needle turns counterclockwise. So these bore gauges use these type of indicators. So when being compressed (Bore getting smaller) the needle turns clockwise. If you look closer at the gauge in the video you will notice the numbers on the large dial start at zero and go larger to 5 or +- .005 thousand's in both directions from zero . Also at the zero there is a small plus on the counterclockwise side and a small minus on the clockwise side. This is the typical configuration of all dial bore gauges I have ever used. With the exception of the dial inside groove style calipers (Such as Mitutoyo 209-354) with the lever on the side of the indicator you compress to close them. To get into the bore/groove. Both needles on them rotate counterclockwise going smaller in diameter. I don't know if that helps but that's just the way they work. Thanks!
@@jonwatte4293 As I explained in the video. I want to be able to adjust the preloading on the angular contact bearings. So they can’t be heat shrunk on the shaft. The nut and the spacers will set the preload of the set.
😅I do not understand why the spacers have to be ground. Could they just ne undersized by a fraction? IE: let the bearings be the riding surface. I always learn something from your videos. Thank you for the time and effort you put in them.
The idea is to get both sides parallel to each other. The surface grinder is perfect for that. It could be done another way but the grinder is easer. With these precision bearings it is important to have them as parallel to each other as possible.
The cam software is telling it to go to a different position then the machines default tool change position set in the control. There are some G30 home positions (That the tool change cycle uses) defined in the control but I prefer not to change them from where they are.
@@EdgePrecision ahhh that's what it looked like, for something like that im surprised you can't set a tool change positions, we have two integrex's at work and I know that's what they do, even on the horizontals we have a home position set for tool changes and such so it doesn't scootch all over the place the way we do it is to make the m6 command kind of a subroutine, turns off all coolant and goes to a set home position for the tool change
Are you concerned about hygiene in regard to those bearings? Other spindle bearing videos I've seen recommend keeping the spindle bearings in the package until it's time to install them in as clean an environment as possible.
I think if the bearings were unsealed/open bearings that would be a good idea. What I’m more concerned with is the actual working environment. Where they are going to be it is possible they could get coolant in them. I have taken steps to protect them from that. But I don’t know how good that will work?
@@marceldavis7460 Remember on this machine you can rotate any of the tools. So to index an insert. I just have to orient the tool insert toward me. Index or chance the insert. Then reorient the tool back to its turning position.
@@EdgePrecision That i know, but why does the insert look at the machine while machining and not at you. In my millturn, the Insert faces me. Is there any reason for that or is it just because the tools you have.
@@marceldavis7460 There just right hand turning tools. They could just as well be left hand, so as you say with the insert facing the front of the machine. With the spindle running in reverse. It really makes no difference. They are just the tools I have.
One scenario where tool handedness can matter is dependent on the construction of your machine. Ex. On a turret lathe, you want the cutting force to be pushing into the ways instead of pulling up on them.
Thank you Pete for all the great machining content that you've put out over the years. You're one of the guys who inspired me to become a machinist and I've enjoyed this career ever since I set foot in my first shop.
Your machining videos are always hypnotizingly good! 👍🏼
Think the same but the name Edge Precision should be Over the Edge Precise....... my 5 cents.
Always the most interesting videos on TH-cam. Thanks
Amazing that a machine that old and that big can hold tolerances that tight. Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Top tier machine and I would imagine it's been well taken care of.
It's a Mazak. They're really good machines to begin with, but this one (integrex) is built exclusively in Japan.
Yes, the bearing is, depending on the bought quality, around 0.007mm up to 0.011 mm smaller than the nominal diameter given by specification, so it will have a guaranteed press fit on a Ø35js6 shaft. The metric IT-tolerance system is absolutely genius but i think, hard to adapt if you need to convert it to imperial. For snug fit (correct translation?) the shaft is turned to h6, for loose fit to f6. I absolutely have no idea, if there exists a similar system in imperial measurment?
Thanks sir for everything you are teaching online I just started my Career in machining and your vedios are very informative and valuable to me especially in times when machine shop owners don't teach much because of automation.
Excellent work. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Man i wish i could learn in person from someone like you. You seam like a wizard with machining. Im a rookie but i have my own machine that im trying to learn on! Some day ill get there keep up the awesome videos.
I enjoy all your videos, but this type is my favorite. Great job, can’t wait to see more of this tool.
Spindle design and manufacture is a very interesting topic - thanks for showing. I would think that hitting the required tolerances without grinding can be difficult, at best…
Would really like to see the final product when you are done.
Grinding is done not only for precision but usually the spindle shafts are hard as fuck after hardening and grinding is generally a good process for finishing hardened parts
Amazing content, as always. I hope life is treating you well (and the property development is proceeding smoothly). Thanks for the videos.
If I wake up filthy rich, I'm going to buy a complete set of those lab-grade ceramic blocks and put it under glass in a coffee table, just so I can admire the fact that they exist.
Nice job on the spindle and planning of it and the video too.
We think the same. I'd open up the Mitutoyo catalogue and tell the rep, "I want one of everything" 🤣🤣
Those ceramic blocks are a bit of a pain owing to the different thermal expansion characteristics. I think their real value lies in their durability. Tungsten carbide ones are a closer to steel but very durable also.
A complete spindle build from scratch? This will be an excellent build!
Thanks for another great video, Peter. Have a great day.
With those rapids, I wouldn't have anymore fingernails. Interesting pecking motion on the cutoff tool. You should have affiliate links for all of these items in your description to help with the cost of the video. Apologies if you already mentioned this, but were those spring passes to get to the final dimensions?
No I set the tools offset to leave stock and take cuts to the finish size. You can’t really take spring passes on steel without ruining the finish. You have to take a certain amount of material in steel to have a good finish.
@@EdgePrecision Cool. Thanks for the info.
Nice looking ITS bore holder. Gotta finish the rest but great start already Peter
*Summary*
* *0:07:45* The host is building a spindle and needs to measure bearings to determine the shaft dimensions.
* *0:08:17* Using gauge blocks and a dial bore gauge, he measures a 35mm bore bearing and two 40mm angular contact bearings.
* *0:10:23* He discovers the actual sizes of the bearings are slightly smaller than their nominal dimensions.
* *0:27:41* He carefully machines the shaft on a Mazak lathe, focusing on concentricity and precision.
* *0:38:10* Due to the close fit required for the bearings, he polishes the 35mm section on an engine lathe for a better fit.
* *0:39:04* The 40mm sections were machined within tolerance on the Mazak.
* *0:39:43* He test fits the bearings on the shaft, ensuring they slide on properly.
* *0:40:05* He explains the final assembly process, showing how the bearings, spacers, nuts, and washers will all fit together inside the spindle housing.
* *0:46:50* He notes that he still needs to grind the spacers to their final thickness for proper bearing preload.
I used Google Gemini 1.5 Pro to summarize the transcript.
Cost (if I didn't use the free tier): $0.2416
Time: 102.02 seconds
I added a 60 second delay to prevent a rate limit of the free tier.
Input tokens: 67477
Output tokens: 518
I'm always sort of amazed by the size of your Mazak.
In general all the bearing manufacturers have iso bearing fits in their documentation. Great video anyway I liked it.
This bearing's part number the P4 at the end indicates a ISO Class 4 running accuracy and P4Y Special Class. But in their description of that part number they also indicate that inside and outside diameters are controlled by NSK and all other tolerances are per ISO Class 4. What ever that means. So I thought I would check for Myself for what I needed. Thanks!
Thanks!
No Thanks You!!!
Thank you Peter! Best! Job
PS; do we get some action of the finished spindle?
Yes I will show that when it is done. Thanks!
what will we watch when you retire Peter/ fantastic work
I'd be happy retiring after this one 😊
We may not be able to see the measuring tools as well as you would like us to, but it's OK. We trust you. You have never lied to us in the past, and I don't think you are going to start now. I can't imagine who I would trust more.
Awesome! Can’t wait for the next video!
I hope there's a part 2. Thanks Peter
¡Por supuesto!
A roller burnish would work great I think for hitting those last couple of .0001”
@@bcbloc02 Yes that could work.
Amazing work as always. Do you plan to share drawings and product references? For such projects this would be very interesting
I will show you as much as I can. But this customer's legal department got after me before. So I have to be carful. Thanks!
awesome Peter
Great video!
excellent fit and finish
What material did you use, and were you planning any type of heat treat? I hope you also make a video of the finished product.
@@mattgross7734 the material is pre heat treated 4140 steel to 36-38 Rc. It was a piece of old material I found in the stock rack.
Have you compared the measured actual value of the inner ring (1.57465) with the laser engraving on the inner ring of the 40 mm ball bearing? It should then show a -4 if your measurement was exact.
@@9voltprojects I didn’t pay attention to the engraving. I will look when I get back to the shop. Thanks!
I checked the engraving on the bearing. You are correct. It has a -2/-5 mark on it.
@@EdgePrecision The first value is the average deviation from the target value of the inner ring and the second value is that of the outer ring (in micron).
good video peter
Hello Peter! Why you do not change coolant for more "transparent" like "blaser liquid tool" or another analogue
@@hwacheon4169 That’s coming up. We plan to clean the tank and do some work on the chip conveyor. But this tank holds 300 gallons of coolant. So it’s not an inexpensive job to change coolant. With the coolant and disposing of the old coolant.
Hi Peter, I was interested in seeing how you chamfered the hole on the radius. I've experienced issues with this, and I've seen other machinists just use a straight on approach which lease an uneven champer. This area doesn't get addressed much and it can really mess up a part.
I'm surprised that you didn't grind the bearing journals running between centers.
You always squeeze the utmost from that Mazak.
When you set a bore gauge in the horizontal position, the stationary anvil should always be facing downwards.
@@beansandtoast3433 Yes that would be best for absolute accuracy. And I would say that would be true if you had a large gauge with extensions going deep into a bore. But for these small gauges I have not noticed a difference from the weight of the gauge. Especially if you are holding it by the plastic insulating handle in the middle of the stem (as you should be). It is almost balanced like that.
top quality Peter
Hi Peter. Can you not override the door interlocks on the Mazak?
No these are automatic doors. If they were manual doors yes. You can take the key that engages the switch off the doors and leave it in the switch. Making the control think the door is always closed. But with these auto doors, they are operated by air cylinders each having limit switches on each end. Plus there is the normal key switch/lock on each door. So not only is the control looking for those key switch/locks but it is also looking for the air cylinders switches. If they open or close with the key switches and even the time it takes to do so. So there is a sequence each door has to go thru every time they open and close. If it doesn’t make all the switches in the right order and the correct timing (with in limits) it gives an alarm.
Could you have set the bore gauge at 50.8 using a 2" stack?
Be nice to see a picture of the whole assy and it purpose - since it is an idea you suggested to save Centreline buying expensive tools.
Its understandable if you cannot show that at the discretion of Centreline. Just curious thats all. Nice end result and precise.
I will be showing that in a future video. Thanks!
Good morning Peter , now I might not know the background history of this project. I do know however you do make a lot of your own tooling rather than ordering online. My question is, in the beginning of a bid do you figure into overall cost your time and material of all of the items you produce for these jobs? I’m very curious to hear your thoughts.
Once again thank you for these in depth videos that let us dive into your process and method of machining. All the best
They (Centerline) are running these titanium parts on the large Okuma vertical mill. They were looking at purchasing a bunch of 90 degree heads to do these machining operations on that machine. A very expensive option. I suggested I could do this on the Mazak if we built this spindle/fixture to reach into the slot/pocket. This should cost less then all those 90 degree heads. And be more capable then the 90 degree heads (we will see but I think so!). So this is the way we decided to go. I didn’t quote these parts so I can’t really answer that part or your question. But this is only part of a very complex job. Thanks!
What’s your opinion on cheap and cheerful vs super expensive measuring equipment.
Are there somethings you just won’t compromise on ? And others you’d say a cheaper one is fine?
@@Wyllie38 In general most of your expensive stuff is made in the same place as the cheep stuff just rebranded. That said the mic I show in this video is a Fowler brand. In general I would say don’t buy cheep measuring tools. It is false economics. My first pick would be a Mitutoyo brand. I also don’t like digital tools in general except for certain things. Like depth measuring tools. Indicators mics calipers bore gauges. I prefer mechanical dials for these type of tools.
Can you please explain what happned at the first BAR IN.
It seems the tool hitt the face off the part.
@@viorelmatei4877 On the first rough boring cycle I was trying to run it with out coolant for the sake of the video. Some of the shavings got in front of the bar in the bottom of the hole. It made a bad sound (oddly the cameras mic didn’t pick this up) so when the bar came out of the hole. I pushed feed hold. You can see in the video the red hot shavings on the tip of the bar. But it didn’t do any damage to anything (fortunately !!!). Running coolant would have prevented this from happening.
Thanks for the reply.
My bad at 0.25X video speed i can see the shaving .
So 2 to 3 tenths under bering size for proper fit and why the hesitation at the end of the thread does that create a undercut instead of pulling out for a normal thread just curious and the way you set up your gage blocks and mic is how I've done it for 40 years good info thanks for sharing
In the came software I had a chamfer at the thread end that caused this. I didn’t realize that until running the program. But it was simpler just to run it that way (I don’t usually do that on a thread on this machine). I will change that for the other part.
Such the perfect job to do between centers it was short with alot of mass and room for big centres. What was your reasoning not to if I might ask?
The issue here is to get the shaft part running true to the ID of the tool connection. What could be done is to machine the shaft part between centers and then hold that in the chuck and machine the tool connection bore. But even doing that you cant really tell what the end of the shaft is doing back in the chucks bore. Only where it sticks out of the jaws. Actually the absolute best way would be to leave the finish machining on the tool connection end to later after it is all mounted in the spindle itself. Turning it in it's own bearings so to speak. I did consider doing it this way but it is more difficult because I would have to mount my finishing tools in the main turning spindle to do so. Doable but more difficult. Maybe I will wish I did it that way later. We shall see. Thanks!
Excellent! Thank you.
Peter, what material did you choose for this job? Thanks! 8:48
The material is heat treated 4140 steel. It was 36-38 Rc.
Forgive me being an idiot, but why does your bore dial gauge needle turn clockwise towards higher numbers as the bore being measured gets smaller?
All standard plunger style dial indicators large needle turn clockwise when compressed the smaller needle (If the indicator has one) that counts the revolutions of the large needle turns counterclockwise. So these bore gauges use these type of indicators. So when being compressed (Bore getting smaller) the needle turns clockwise. If you look closer at the gauge in the video you will notice the numbers on the large dial start at zero and go larger to 5 or +- .005 thousand's in both directions from zero . Also at the zero there is a small plus on the counterclockwise side and a small minus on the clockwise side. This is the typical configuration of all dial bore gauges I have ever used. With the exception of the dial inside groove style calipers (Such as Mitutoyo 209-354) with the lever on the side of the indicator you compress to close them. To get into the bore/groove. Both needles on them rotate counterclockwise going smaller in diameter. I don't know if that helps but that's just the way they work. Thanks!
As always excellent work! What model of Integrex do you have?
@@lukegkohler It’s a e650 H.
Don't you want the shaft slightly oversize so you can heat shrink the bearing onto it?
@@jonwatte4293 As I explained in the video. I want to be able to adjust the preloading on the angular contact bearings. So they can’t be heat shrunk on the shaft. The nut and the spacers will set the preload of the set.
@@EdgePrecision gotcha -- I missed the "no adjustment if heat shrink." Makes sense.
😅I do not understand why the spacers have to be ground. Could they just ne undersized by a fraction? IE: let the bearings be the riding surface. I always learn something from your videos. Thank you for the time and effort you put in them.
The idea is to get both sides parallel to each other. The surface grinder is perfect for that. It could be done another way but the grinder is easer. With these precision bearings it is important to have them as parallel to each other as possible.
@@EdgePrecision thanks
how come there's so many extra movements for the tool change?
The cam software is telling it to go to a different position then the machines default tool change position set in the control. There are some G30 home positions (That the tool change cycle uses) defined in the control but I prefer not to change them from where they are.
@@EdgePrecision ahhh that's what it looked like, for something like that im surprised you can't set a tool change positions, we have two integrex's at work and I know that's what they do, even on the horizontals we have a home position set for tool changes and such so it doesn't scootch all over the place
the way we do it is to make the m6 command kind of a subroutine, turns off all coolant and goes to a set home position for the tool change
Are you concerned about hygiene in regard to those bearings? Other spindle bearing videos I've seen recommend keeping the spindle bearings in the package until it's time to install them in as clean an environment as possible.
I think if the bearings were unsealed/open bearings that would be a good idea. What I’m more concerned with is the actual working environment. Where they are going to be it is possible they could get coolant in them. I have taken steps to protect them from that. But I don’t know how good that will work?
Ever made a PSK holder?
Are you referring to a HSK tool holder? If so no I have not. Neither have I made anything called a PSK holder.
thank you
Is there a reason why your outside turning tools face away from you. Isnt that unpractical for changing out inserts and other stuff.
@@marceldavis7460 Remember on this machine you can rotate any of the tools. So to index an insert. I just have to orient the tool insert toward me. Index or chance the insert. Then reorient the tool back to its turning position.
@@EdgePrecision That i know, but why does the insert look at the machine while machining and not at you. In my millturn, the Insert faces me. Is there any reason for that or is it just because the tools you have.
@@marceldavis7460 There just right hand turning tools. They could just as well be left hand, so as you say with the insert facing the front of the machine. With the spindle running in reverse. It really makes no difference. They are just the tools I have.
@@EdgePrecision ah ok thank you for the answer
One scenario where tool handedness can matter is dependent on the construction of your machine. Ex. On a turret lathe, you want the cutting force to be pushing into the ways instead of pulling up on them.
Jeez