Excellent video. My Acura is a 2001 3.2TL, 163K miles. I did this check and used iPhone and selfy stick to record the test. My video confirmed that the passengers side mount was moving wayyyy more than yours. I had had the front mount replaced but the clonking nose deceased but as I said now I need to replace the passenger side engine mount. Thank you very much.
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down? I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
@Incin3ration meh don't be sorry, the tutorial you did was very fantastic 👏 the rear actually craps out more often than you think, but for 2001-03 the front+back are the same mounts, just the rear is harder to reach lol
Hey man, I appreciate you doing the whole thing and kind of showing how to do it. My grandpa and I are planning on replacing my motor mounts on my 2001 Acura CL and even though they are a little different cars guessing there’s gonna be a lot of similar things and I’m appreciative of you making this away have some sort of guidelines.
The person outside the vehicle is there to better evaluate the mounts and determine which ones are moving excessively, making noise, and need replacing. So the outside person is supposed to be looking at the same things as I was at 1:47 in the video
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down? I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
@@golfish8589 if you’re replacing one then just replace all three of them. The car could experience slight alignment issues as a result of a floppy motor but just look over your suspension components after taking care of the mounts. Get an impact wrench if possible
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down? I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down? I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
I don't remember my car pulling to one side or the other due to bad motor mounts. The side motor mount is usually the worst, followed by the front mount. Best to replace those 2 at the same time. The rear mount usually doesn't give people problems.
What is that tube for that is attached to the front motor mount? Also have you had your timing belt replaced? I have 219,374 on mine but the belt was replaced at some point before i bought the car.
It controls the vacuum inside the mount to change the damping behavior of the mount based on operating conditions. My car has had the timing belt replaced twice, and I’m about to change it again in a month. So keep an eye out for that video ;) it’s supposed to be done every 105k miles, but I wouldn’t be too worried if you went over by a few thousand miles.
Quick tip you could’ve jacked it up in same spot as front one to relieve the pressure the oil pans in these TLs are sensitive not a good idea you get lucky but sooner or later you’ll be replacing that
I’m not sure! It’s been a while since I did this, I don’t remember how difficult each of the bolts were to remove. I would recommend using some penetrating fluid such as liquid wrench, letting it soak for at least a few hours to a full day of if you have the time. Then perhaps try an impact wrench. Be sure to use a 6 point socket to avoid rounding the bolt.
Malik Almaymani it is a tedious job removing the engine bracket, but is pretty much required because there is not a lot of working room in there, and would otherwise require lifting the engine higher than it’s meant to be and put stress on other components. It’s really not to hard to remove the bracket though, you can do it!
Thanks again for your videos. Just replaced the side mount on my nephews 99 tl. The front mount is good, but im.not sure about the rear mount. Any chance of you doing a vid on the rear mount? Nothing really good out there on our car. Carck
Honestly, probably not anytime in the near future. The rear mount is very strong and usually doesn't need replacing, as in my case since there wasn't any excessive movement or knocking noises coming from my rear mount. There are some good writeups on acurazine that could be helpful! acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-rear-engine-mount-replacement-862700/ acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-rear-engine-mount-replacement-862700/
Great video. I just noticed the long bolt that goes to the side motor mount has a huge gap in the center. Is that correct? Won’t this make a clunking sound when the engine shifts around. Or is the mount made wrong. Thanks
No that’s correct. The lack of threads on the entire bolt is common amongst longer bolts in general since it’s cheaper to make and simply not necessary since only the end of the threads are used. The non-threaded portion has a tight fit that won’t cause any clunking noises. You’ll also find this style of bolt on the struts and those don’t clunk either. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I meant the diameter of the motor mount hole where the long both goes into. There is such a big gap as the bolt is a lot skinnier. Sorry for the confusion.
@@tsw808 ohh my bad. It should be fine! The bolt when torqued to 40ft.lbs makes it very secure! I’ve never had any clunking sounds after replacing the mount while using the original bolt.
I personally don’t remember experiencing any steering wheel vibrations, but I’ve read this could be the solution for your situation. I’ve also read cheaper and stiffer aftermarket mounts can cause excess vibrations as well.
How can I remove the bolts from the side motor mount if they broke inside and where can I get a new lower bracket to the top one that holds the two bolts
Oh my, sounds like there's a lot going on. Well, I'll start with the easy part. If you're referring to the bracket that bolts directly to the engine itself, you can find that under the Engine -> Cylinder Block - Oil Pan category, part number 11910-P8C-A00 www.acurapartsforless.com/v-2002-acura-tl--type-s--3-2l-v6-gas/engine--cylinder-block-oil-pan As for the broken bolts, there's plenty of information on forums and youtube on how to remove a broken bolt. Buy a bolt Extractor Kit, check out this video for comparisons - th-cam.com/video/XVTn6wI4g6s/w-d-xo.html Furthermore, I would recommend getting some Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid and soaking the threads of the broken bolts for at least 24 hours, with reapplications every 8 hours, and then using the bolt extractor to remove the bolts. Good luck!!!
on the front motor mount, you want to torque the 4 mount bolts and 3 bracket bolts while the jack supports the weight of the engine. Then, lower the jack, and torque the last bracket-to-mount bolt
I used OEM Genuine Honda Parts. I would use a Honda equivalent website such as hondapartsforless.com so you can specifically look up your exact honda model and enter in your VIN so they can verify that you're buying the correct parts for your car.
Roger Riekki oh I guess that particular website can’t ship to Canada. You might have to shop around to see who ships to you and offers the best price. You could maybe try hondapartsnow.com or torontohondaparts.com
oh man thanks!! this was big. just ruined my mounts on my 03 CL, so this helps with the process, obviously, but ALSO because i bought the mounts from acura a couple days ago for $450. i just ordered them off the site for $250!!!!
Alben Arroyo wow that’s crazy expensive! They don’t call it the stealership for nothing! Good luck with your mounts, I’m glad my video could be helpful!
Question, hello a few months ago I bought a 2002 acura tl, but it does not have the original keys, the unlock buttons on the doors do work, but the one on the trunk of the car does not, anyone knows why, my question is why the key is not the original? It is that this bad program, I do not think it is the mechanism because with the button inside the car it works, but with the button of the key no, I hope and you answer me
Jose Argueta you could try replacing the battery. Problems can occur when the battery needs changing. Also make sure the valet switch inside the glovebox is off. Otherwise it’s probably just a bad remote.
Jose Argueta I think so. It’s supposed to keep everybody out of the trunk when you let valet or anybody else drive your car. My guess is it’s already off since the button on your door works, but it wouldn’t hurt to quickly test it out.
I managed to replace my side mount, it made a noticeable difference, almost as if the car got 5 years younger :), I plan on doing the front one as well. btw, I couldn't torque one of the mounting bolts since it kept spinning and it looks to be an issue with the thread itself. I tried swapping bolts and it made no difference, so only one of them got torque down to 33lb-ft. Another issue I have now is that somehow I cut a PS suction tube and now there's a air / fluid leak from there so I ordered that tube as well. for now, I just used a lighter to seal where it's cut and taped it around and that seems taken care of the PS whine noise at the moment. imgur.com/UUnNBIz
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VERY GOOD and excellent voice easy and captivating 🎉😮❤well done English man.....
Thank you very much! I appreciate the compliment and am glad you enjoyed my video!
Excellent video. My Acura is a 2001 3.2TL, 163K miles.
I did this check and used iPhone and selfy stick to record the test. My video confirmed that the passengers side mount was moving wayyyy more than yours. I had had the front mount replaced but the clonking nose deceased but as I said now I need to replace the passenger side engine mount. Thank you very much.
You’re welcome! Glad my video has been helpful!
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down?
I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
Best channel on TH-cam for the Acura TL
Thank you so much!!!
wish you did the rear mount as it's the most difficult..
Yah I get that comment a lot, sorry. Does it actually need to be replaced though? Pretty rare for the rear mount to go bad
@Incin3ration meh don't be sorry, the tutorial you did was very fantastic 👏
the rear actually craps out more often than you think, but for 2001-03 the front+back are the same mounts, just the rear is harder to reach lol
Hey man, I appreciate you doing the whole thing and kind of showing how to do it. My grandpa and I are planning on replacing my motor mounts on my 2001 Acura CL and even though they are a little different cars guessing there’s gonna be a lot of similar things and I’m appreciative of you making this away have some sort of guidelines.
You are very welcome! Our cars are very similar and I’m sure you won’t have much of a problem getting this job done. Good luck and thanks for watching
I got two people like you said one outside and the other inside what is he suppose to do if I’m pressing the break and changin gears???
The person outside the vehicle is there to better evaluate the mounts and determine which ones are moving excessively, making noise, and need replacing. So the outside person is supposed to be looking at the same things as I was at 1:47 in the video
Just did this job and your insight is spot on great vid my man
Thank you! Glad was video was helpful!!
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down?
I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
@@golfish8589 if you’re replacing one then just replace all three of them. The car could experience slight alignment issues as a result of a floppy motor but just look over your suspension components after taking care of the mounts. Get an impact wrench if possible
Omg thanks for the tip I have to do mines tomorrow and I'm doing it by myself. This video is going to help alot tmm
You're very welcome! It's not an easy job as everything's a tight fit, but it's very doable! Good luck!
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down?
I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
With these two motor mounts broken. Did the van while at highway speed veer right when accelerator was lifted and back left when accelerator was pushed down?
I know my top motor mount is broken and the engine moves a lot. Is the lower front most likely broken as well?
I don't remember my car pulling to one side or the other due to bad motor mounts. The side motor mount is usually the worst, followed by the front mount. Best to replace those 2 at the same time. The rear mount usually doesn't give people problems.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I replaced top yesterday. Engine still rocks. Front lower mount will arrive Friday.
What is that tube for that is attached to the front motor mount? Also have you had your timing belt replaced? I have 219,374 on mine but the belt was replaced at some point before i bought the car.
It controls the vacuum inside the mount to change the damping behavior of the mount based on operating conditions.
My car has had the timing belt replaced twice, and I’m about to change it again in a month. So keep an eye out for that video ;) it’s supposed to be done every 105k miles, but I wouldn’t be too worried if you went over by a few thousand miles.
Anyone know what direction the last bracket to mounting bolt goes in?
Are you referring to the bolt at 21:18?
Quick tip you could’ve jacked it up in same spot as front one to relieve the pressure the oil pans in these TLs are sensitive not a good idea you get lucky but sooner or later you’ll be replacing that
great video!
Allen Lu thank you!!!
Is there a reason my bolts next to the timing belt are so damn tight? I can’t get them to budge for anything.
I’m not sure! It’s been a while since I did this, I don’t remember how difficult each of the bolts were to remove. I would recommend using some penetrating fluid such as liquid wrench, letting it soak for at least a few hours to a full day of if you have the time. Then perhaps try an impact wrench. Be sure to use a 6 point socket to avoid rounding the bolt.
Stellar job! Thank you!
You’re welcome and thanks for watching!
Thanks 👍
Can I just left the engine more and replace the mount without removing the three bolts part from the engine block??
Malik Almaymani it is a tedious job removing the engine bracket, but is pretty much required because there is not a lot of working room in there, and would otherwise require lifting the engine higher than it’s meant to be and put stress on other components. It’s really not to hard to remove the bracket though, you can do it!
That was beautiful! Very nice video.
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thanks again for your videos. Just replaced the side mount on my nephews 99 tl. The front mount is good, but im.not sure about the rear mount. Any chance of you doing a vid on the rear mount? Nothing really good out there on our car. Carck
Honestly, probably not anytime in the near future. The rear mount is very strong and usually doesn't need replacing, as in my case since there wasn't any excessive movement or knocking noises coming from my rear mount. There are some good writeups on acurazine that could be helpful!
acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-rear-engine-mount-replacement-862700/
acurazine.com/forums/second-generation-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-rear-engine-mount-replacement-862700/
Great video. I just noticed the long bolt that goes to the side motor mount has a huge gap in the center. Is that correct? Won’t this make a clunking sound when the engine shifts around. Or is the mount made wrong. Thanks
No that’s correct. The lack of threads on the entire bolt is common amongst longer bolts in general since it’s cheaper to make and simply not necessary since only the end of the threads are used. The non-threaded portion has a tight fit that won’t cause any clunking noises. You’ll also find this style of bolt on the struts and those don’t clunk either. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I meant the diameter of the motor mount hole where the long both goes into. There is such a big gap as the bolt is a lot skinnier. Sorry for the confusion.
@@tsw808 ohh my bad. It should be fine! The bolt when torqued to 40ft.lbs makes it very secure! I’ve never had any clunking sounds after replacing the mount while using the original bolt.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple just don’t see why the motor mount (diameter) hole is so much bigger where the long bolt goes into since its a skinnier bolt.
@@tsw808 yeah I get what you’re saying, but I wouldn’t worry about it. I’ve had no problems with this over my 332,000 on this car :)
Did it eliminate the steering wheel vibration at idle?
I personally don’t remember experiencing any steering wheel vibrations, but I’ve read this could be the solution for your situation. I’ve also read cheaper and stiffer aftermarket mounts can cause excess vibrations as well.
Nice video, i have this car too
How can I remove the bolts from the side motor mount if they broke inside and where can I get a new lower bracket to the top one that holds the two bolts
Oh my, sounds like there's a lot going on. Well, I'll start with the easy part. If you're referring to the bracket that bolts directly to the engine itself, you can find that under the Engine -> Cylinder Block - Oil Pan category, part number 11910-P8C-A00 www.acurapartsforless.com/v-2002-acura-tl--type-s--3-2l-v6-gas/engine--cylinder-block-oil-pan
As for the broken bolts, there's plenty of information on forums and youtube on how to remove a broken bolt. Buy a bolt Extractor Kit, check out this video for comparisons - th-cam.com/video/XVTn6wI4g6s/w-d-xo.html Furthermore, I would recommend getting some Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid and soaking the threads of the broken bolts for at least 24 hours, with reapplications every 8 hours, and then using the bolt extractor to remove the bolts.
Good luck!!!
Nice thanks man 💪
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Do I need tighten all the bolts when car is on the ground or just upper bolts on front mount
on the front motor mount, you want to torque the 4 mount bolts and 3 bracket bolts while the jack supports the weight of the engine. Then, lower the jack, and torque the last bracket-to-mount bolt
Incin3ration thank you 😊👍
Did you use OEM parts or aftermarket? Would the site mentioned work for a Honda accord v6 engine or no?
I used OEM Genuine Honda Parts. I would use a Honda equivalent website such as hondapartsforless.com so you can specifically look up your exact honda model and enter in your VIN so they can verify that you're buying the correct parts for your car.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple and that website sells authentic honda parts right?
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple can't I ship to canada?
Roger Riekki oh I guess that particular website can’t ship to Canada. You might have to shop around to see who ships to you and offers the best price. You could maybe try hondapartsnow.com or torontohondaparts.com
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I'll try Hondapartsnow, Toronto parts has the exact same prices as the dealership lol
oh man thanks!! this was big. just ruined my mounts on my 03 CL, so this helps with the process, obviously, but ALSO because i bought the mounts from acura a couple days ago for $450. i just ordered them off the site for $250!!!!
Alben Arroyo wow that’s crazy expensive! They don’t call it the stealership for nothing! Good luck with your mounts, I’m glad my video could be helpful!
Question, hello a few months ago I bought a 2002 acura tl, but it does not have the original keys, the unlock buttons on the doors do work, but the one on the trunk of the car does not, anyone knows why, my question is why the key is not the original? It is that this bad program, I do not think it is the mechanism because with the button inside the car it works, but with the button of the key no, I hope and you answer me
Jose Argueta you could try replacing the battery. Problems can occur when the battery needs changing. Also make sure the valet switch inside the glovebox is off. Otherwise it’s probably just a bad remote.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple does the switch have to be off??
Jose Argueta I think so. It’s supposed to keep everybody out of the trunk when you let valet or anybody else drive your car. My guess is it’s already off since the button on your door works, but it wouldn’t hurt to quickly test it out.
I managed to replace my side mount, it made a noticeable difference, almost as if the car got 5 years younger :), I plan on doing the front one as well.
btw, I couldn't torque one of the mounting bolts since it kept spinning and it looks to be an issue with the thread itself. I tried swapping bolts and it made no difference, so only one of them got torque down to 33lb-ft.
Another issue I have now is that somehow I cut a PS suction tube and now there's a air / fluid leak from there so I ordered that tube as well. for now, I just used a lighter to seal where it's cut and taped it around and that seems taken care of the PS whine noise at the moment.
imgur.com/UUnNBIz