Just an FYI, using a pneumatic impact gun provides way more torque than required. Notice how neither of the nuts of the lower ball joint budged and it clicked? Means it had over-torque, and the axle nut did the same thing, it was over-torqued. This is critical as over-torquing your CV axle nut will wear your hubs sooner as you're technically squeezing the bearings tighter than they're intended to, so this will lead to premature wear on the hub. I'm not an expert but I speak from experience. Just my $0.02
I watched the video on the driver side axle replacement as well. Why does the driver side axle nut get torqued to 129 FT/LBS, but the passenger side only 103 FT/LBS?
Do you mind explaining why you removed the steering knuckle from the strut on the driver side replacement and the ball joint on the passenger side replacement? Thanks
You got lucky. In my experience that Center bearing does not pop out of the carrier so easily every time. The one I did today I had to remove that center carrier (4 bolts 16 mm head mount it to the engine block) and hammer the bearing out of the carrier. Nice video though.
Im at the knuckle at the carrier bracket and it will not just come out. I have an axel puller and she doesnt budge. Is there something other than that piece with the two bolts to remove? Appreciate any feedback. Thank you. Easy to follow vids btw. Driver side was a piece of cake.
So how abt when the axle is stuck in the transmission, it ripped half way out and the remainder of the axle is still connected to transmission, what do I do
Man I'm a hard head and I understood this very well or maybe I was high enough to process it and learn welp thanks for the help feels like I want to try this
I was able to everything but its now leaking transmission fluid where axle enters transmission. Replaced the seal, tapped it in and still leaking. Not sure what I did wrong. I guess I'm taking it to the mechanic nexr. 😅
I'm at the 1:15 mark trying to pry the ball joint out. It is not stuck, I can move it about an inch, but I can't get it low enough to clear the control arm. It's like the control arm stops at a certain point and won't move low enough to get the ball joint out. I am using a C-clamp as a hook trying to duplicate the forces applied in the video. Every Google result deals with stuck ball joints, which isn't my problem. Any suggestions anyone?
my axle wouldnt come out eith a pry bar. since instead of taking off the ball joint i took seperated the knucle and the strut i just popped the strut out and got a slide hammer rental from canadian tire and a puller head im gonna return to amazon. popped out in like 5 goes
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
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Just an FYI, using a pneumatic impact gun provides way more torque than required. Notice how neither of the nuts of the lower ball joint budged and it clicked? Means it had over-torque, and the axle nut did the same thing, it was over-torqued. This is critical as over-torquing your CV axle nut will wear your hubs sooner as you're technically squeezing the bearings tighter than they're intended to, so this will lead to premature wear on the hub. I'm not an expert but I speak from experience. Just my $0.02
I watched the video on the driver side axle replacement as well. Why does the driver side axle nut get torqued to 129 FT/LBS, but the passenger side only 103 FT/LBS?
Just an FYI everyone, this CV Axle replacement procedure works on the newer gen Altima's as well. It's all the same steps. Hope this helps!
Do you mind explaining why you removed the steering knuckle from the strut on the driver side replacement and the ball joint on the passenger side replacement? Thanks
You got lucky. In my experience that Center bearing does not pop out of the carrier so easily every time. The one I did today I had to remove that center carrier (4 bolts 16 mm head mount it to the engine block) and hammer the bearing out of the carrier. Nice video though.
Im at the knuckle at the carrier bracket and it will not just come out. I have an axel puller and she doesnt budge. Is there something other than that piece with the two bolts to remove? Appreciate any feedback. Thank you. Easy to follow vids btw. Driver side was a piece of cake.
So how abt when the axle is stuck in the transmission, it ripped half way out and the remainder of the axle is still connected to transmission, what do I do
The best videos ever. Thank you
Man I'm a hard head and I understood this very well or maybe I was high enough to process it and learn welp thanks for the help feels like I want to try this
I was able to everything but its now leaking transmission fluid where axle enters transmission. Replaced the seal, tapped it in and still leaking. Not sure what I did wrong. I guess I'm taking it to the mechanic nexr. 😅
I'm at the 1:15 mark trying to pry the ball joint out. It is not stuck, I can move it about an inch, but I can't get it low enough to clear the control arm. It's like the control arm stops at a certain point and won't move low enough to get the ball joint out. I am using a C-clamp as a hook trying to duplicate the forces applied in the video. Every Google result deals with stuck ball joints, which isn't my problem. Any suggestions anyone?
The trq driver side he didn’t take ballpoint out is it necessary on passenger
Thank you man
my axle wouldnt come out eith a pry bar. since instead of taking off the ball joint i took seperated the knucle and the strut i just popped the strut out and got a slide hammer rental from canadian tire and a puller head im gonna return to amazon. popped out in like 5 goes
Thank you
Why cut the Cotter pin? Why not loop both ends around the axle?
New bolt was larger than the 32mm, so I reused..IK not supposed to...