Gotta put new injectors in my 2005 t1n. What's best route ... Rebuild or replace Bosch or ? Any sources would help me a ton Im in n fl ...got old ones out with your help. .what a blessing you are Spencer Topnotch
Ocaladiesel.com - William's Diesel in Ocala is where I have my injectors tested and rebuilt as needed. I do not trust anything on eBay or Amazon when it comes to BOSCH brand name. Local parts stores also sell counterfeit products that do NOT meet BOSCH specs but bear the brand and fake* holograms.
looks like this is on the to-do list today. I am getting codes. p1190-128 rail pressure control valve. p1187-8 rail pressure control valve stuck closed.
1187-8 is very specific to the control valve sticking in closed position. I would still test every possibility before throwing parts at it, but I think* a valve replacement will be your Ta-Da!
@Florida Van Man thanks for all your hard work, I love the t1n and since now this is going to be my home for a while can can you make a video to get a wire in an extra battery. The way I did it was adding a spliter and connecting a new lead from the alternator. One side to main and another side to the battery on the back. My question is where is the best place to get an ignition wire. I heard there's one under the driver seat but I'm looking for one In the engine. Can you help me with this?
Terminal D+ under the seat is the best place. It is fused and proven safe, not causing voltage issues on important sensors. It is easy to route a wire through the floor hole under the seat. This video shows where to connect, at about 2 and a half minutes in. th-cam.com/video/eJcegZhb4xA/w-d-xo.html
I replaced one injector that was leaking. Two weeks later after a couple of long trips I hadca problem. When I stopped for a coffee break I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. Turns over but not starting. Start ya basdard ( ether spray ) in the air intake did the trick. Seems weird if I get a starting issue when I didn't beforehand
I put the question out to the real mechanics of the world and it seems no leak-off is better than almost no leak-off. So that is my best injector and the other ones are fine, by this method of testing.
These are better than original: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FDiesel-Injector-Fuel-return-Line-overflow-Metal-connectors-Mercedes-Dodge-5Cyl%2F173914039463%3Fhash%3Ditem287e15a4a7%3Ag%3Ab88AAOSwYUZdS4u7&campid=5338647076&toolid=10001&customid=
I have seen Mercedes mechanics do this with engines running in cars, but for reasons I do not know, the Sprinter method is crank with start disabled. When I used Carsoft 8.0 and expensive vials for this same test 10 years ago, the software disabled engine starting. This software is similar to what was later known as D.A.D.
I recently replaced the injector copper washer and bolt on injector no.1 on my 4 cylinder 311cdi and have created an air lock in the system, can you tell me the best way to remove this air from the system please.
@@FloridaVanMan I just wondered if there was a way to release the air from system going from filter to fuel rail as I can see bubbles in the pipes and it struggles to start. Does undoing the pipes going to each injector help release this air or will it just remove itself once engine is running
@@jonathankeerie9129 Any air in the fuel line will quickly go to the tank via return lines. If you are seeing bubble in clear or white lines that is air leaking in. It often gets in at the 'water in fuel' sensor on the bottom of your fuel filter or the snap-on connections. Since you have lines that you can see into, you must have an OM612, 2002-2003 in the USA or OM611 in UK.
Two of the injectors failed testing at a Bosch center. Probably was one of those. I'm not sure I'd call that a knock, but I hear what you are asking about.
Thanks for the Jinx! I am still fighting this 2002 with a smoking habit. I replaced the fuel management valve on the back of the rail Wednesday. What a pain!!! Good grief that manifold is in the way!!! I tried to make a video of the process and variables that I found, but it didn't go well, to put it mildly. My parts donor had nice hex-key screws that were easily removed from the block that is not in a van (so I can get to all sides). But the van I'm fixing had to have E-8 heads and insufficient space to get a socket in... It was an all day cussing event!
@@vanman3752 I suspect low compression but we have not proven it. The smoking engine is sitting on my bench still, one year after selling the van with a swapped engine that did not smoke. I will tear it down eventually. Maybe after I learn to properly test compression.
Those brittle plastic clips though @#$% I had to wait a week until some new metal aftermarket replacements arrived.. By the way, I have 340,000 miles on my injectors and they are still running smoothly. I have no idea when I should replace them.
Much-much better than new: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FDiesel-Injector-Fuel-return-Line-overflow-Metal-connectors-Mercedes-Dodge-5Cyl%2F173914039463%3Fhash%3Ditem287e15a4a7%3Ag%3Ab88AAOSwYUZdS4u7&campid=5338647076&toolid=10001&customid=
If one injector is releasing too much fuel to the return line, as this test discovers, the rail pressure cannot be maintained and the van will stall. Your code reader is not compatible with your van. 0087 is not a code your van can produce, so we know the reader is miscommunicating the On-Board-Diagnostics (OBD). We have a link for compatible AP200 and a video showing how to set it up for theses vans to get accurate data from the OBD.
@@FloridaVanMan the mechanic says that he doesn’t think it’s an injector because it idles & starts up fine. 🤷♂️ can injector still be bad if idling fine?
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Gotta put new injectors in my 2005 t1n. What's best route ... Rebuild or replace
Bosch or ?
Any sources would help me a ton
Im in n fl ...got old ones out with your help. .what a blessing you are
Spencer Topnotch
Ocaladiesel.com - William's Diesel in Ocala is where I have my injectors tested and rebuilt as needed. I do not trust anything on eBay or Amazon when it comes to BOSCH brand name. Local parts stores also sell counterfeit products that do NOT meet BOSCH specs but bear the brand and fake* holograms.
Brilliant video . Helped me do this one time before I found two injectors leaking and replaced . About to do it again to check.
Thanks
looks like this is on the to-do list today.
I am getting codes. p1190-128 rail pressure control valve. p1187-8 rail pressure control valve stuck closed.
1187-8 is very specific to the control valve sticking in closed position. I would still test every possibility before throwing parts at it, but I think* a valve replacement will be your Ta-Da!
@Florida Van Man thanks for all your hard work, I love the t1n and since now this is going to be my home for a while can can you make a video to get a wire in an extra battery. The way I did it was adding a spliter and connecting a new lead from the alternator. One side to main and another side to the battery on the back.
My question is where is the best place to get an ignition wire. I heard there's one under the driver seat but I'm looking for one In the engine. Can you help me with this?
Terminal D+ under the seat is the best place. It is fused and proven safe, not causing voltage issues on important sensors. It is easy to route a wire through the floor hole under the seat. This video shows where to connect, at about 2 and a half minutes in. th-cam.com/video/eJcegZhb4xA/w-d-xo.html
I replaced one injector that was leaking. Two weeks later after a couple of long trips I hadca problem. When I stopped for a coffee break I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. Turns over but not starting. Start ya basdard ( ether spray ) in the air intake did the trick. Seems weird if I get a starting issue when I didn't beforehand
You need rpm's to show how much fuel you get + the overflow. Try that same thing with 1500-1700 rpms with your new injectors - is there any difference
Interesting! On injector #4 did u finger out why there was little to no fuel in the tube? Tanks for ur test.
I put the question out to the real mechanics of the world and it seems no leak-off is better than almost no leak-off. So that is my best injector and the other ones are fine, by this method of testing.
@@FloridaVanMan I read about injectors that not Leaking can be stuck open not sure if it's the same for sprinters
O one other thing is there a place to get replacement piece for the line should the plastic elbows break during this test.
These are better than original:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FDiesel-Injector-Fuel-return-Line-overflow-Metal-connectors-Mercedes-Dodge-5Cyl%2F173914039463%3Fhash%3Ditem287e15a4a7%3Ag%3Ab88AAOSwYUZdS4u7&campid=5338647076&toolid=10001&customid=
Hmm now I'm confused. Why is this not the right way to do the test with the engine running?
I have seen Mercedes mechanics do this with engines running in cars, but for reasons I do not know, the Sprinter method is crank with start disabled. When I used Carsoft 8.0 and expensive vials for this same test 10 years ago, the software disabled engine starting. This software is similar to what was later known as D.A.D.
I recently replaced the injector copper washer and bolt on injector no.1 on my 4 cylinder 311cdi and have created an air lock in the system, can you tell me the best way to remove this air from the system please.
Not sure what you mean by air lock. Air in the fuel system will work itself out soon after the engine starts.
@@FloridaVanMan I just wondered if there was a way to release the air from system going from filter to fuel rail as I can see bubbles in the pipes and it struggles to start. Does undoing the pipes going to each injector help release this air or will it just remove itself once engine is running
@@jonathankeerie9129 Any air in the fuel line will quickly go to the tank via return lines. If you are seeing bubble in clear or white lines that is air leaking in. It often gets in at the 'water in fuel' sensor on the bottom of your fuel filter or the snap-on connections. Since you have lines that you can see into, you must have an OM612, 2002-2003 in the USA or OM611 in UK.
Did you ever found what was causing the knock?
Two of the injectors failed testing at a Bosch center. Probably was one of those. I'm not sure I'd call that a knock, but I hear what you are asking about.
Queston?? Have you ever had any issues with the fuel quantity valve? The valve on the HP fuel pump
Not recently. Thankfully.
fuel pressure is too high?
Rail pressure to low code #p0087
Thanks for the Jinx! I am still fighting this 2002 with a smoking habit. I replaced the fuel management valve on the back of the rail Wednesday. What a pain!!! Good grief that manifold is in the way!!! I tried to make a video of the process and variables that I found, but it didn't go well, to put it mildly. My parts donor had nice hex-key screws that were easily removed from the block that is not in a van (so I can get to all sides). But the van I'm fixing had to have E-8 heads and insufficient space to get a socket in... It was an all day cussing event!
@@vanman3752 I suspect low compression but we have not proven it. The smoking engine is sitting on my bench still, one year after selling the van with a swapped engine that did not smoke. I will tear it down eventually. Maybe after I learn to properly test compression.
What was causing the air bubbles?
I never really looked into it. probably should have but this was a few years ago and that van has moved on.
Can Injector leak cause t1n crank but no start?
Yes! If the rail pressure isn't high enough the van won't start. Injectors leaking to the return line will release the pressure.
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you for your answer. I'm t1n user in Thailand.❤
Those brittle plastic clips though @#$% I had to wait a week until some new metal aftermarket replacements arrived.. By the way, I have 340,000 miles on my injectors and they are still running smoothly. I have no idea when I should replace them.
Much-much better than new:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FDiesel-Injector-Fuel-return-Line-overflow-Metal-connectors-Mercedes-Dodge-5Cyl%2F173914039463%3Fhash%3Ditem287e15a4a7%3Ag%3Ab88AAOSwYUZdS4u7&campid=5338647076&toolid=10001&customid=
Will injectors cause van to keep stalling while driving I have a code p0087
If one injector is releasing too much fuel to the return line, as this test discovers, the rail pressure cannot be maintained and the van will stall.
Your code reader is not compatible with your van. 0087 is not a code your van can produce, so we know the reader is miscommunicating the On-Board-Diagnostics (OBD). We have a link for compatible AP200 and a video showing how to set it up for theses vans to get accurate data from the OBD.
floridavanman.com/
@@FloridaVanMan wow it’s at a shop & that’s the code they say popped up. Crazy that they don’t have a higher end scanner smh
@@FloridaVanMan also what type of code should it read for something like what you mentioned?
@@FloridaVanMan the mechanic says that he doesn’t think it’s an injector because it idles & starts up fine. 🤷♂️ can injector still be bad if idling fine?
Sprinnur haha, say water!? Plz
Poor buttercup didn't deserve to be hit :(
She was only in the street to protest all these vans leaving and nobody taking her on trips. She'll get her way very soon.
Sheet, I am first again. I need to sort my life out. I hate taking those plastic clips off, they always break on me
Of course you are always first to comment. You are 5 hours ahead of us! lol