@Nermash I had not considered it but I've had a look at the spec now. For the money it seems like a very good buy...I wish it had PC connectivity, it has a serial port but that's for calibration. Thanks for bring it to my attention.
I hated the display - mine is under a shelf so poorly lit. The problem is the backlight which is very dim (look at the video around 20 mins) and cuts out after a short time which is crazy for a bench meter when powered by the mains. To get over this I modified the backlight. First I scraped the pcb track supplying the backlight and soldered wires onto the mains neutral and the 120v wire on the transformer (UK mains is 230v). This kept the backlight on whenever the meter had power but it was still dim. I then got a yellow backlight and 12v powered supply. After cleaning off the reflective coating from the back of the LCD and cutting off the little backlight locating peg, I replaced the backlight with the new one that was cut to size. The display is now very bright and clear even with a bright light on it. The old blue backlight was not too bad after removing the LCD reflective coating but the yellow backlight is better. The 12v power adapter is connected to the small power pcb output so is on all the time even if powered by batteries (which I never do). Now if only I could speed up the autoranging for resistance.
@TableWolfMusic Classic!!! I love your way of thinking! Thanks posting and watching.
@Nermash I had not considered it but I've had a look at the spec now. For the money it seems like a very good buy...I wish it had PC connectivity, it has a serial port but that's for calibration. Thanks for bring it to my attention.
I hated the display - mine is under a shelf so poorly lit. The problem is the backlight which is very dim (look at the video around 20 mins) and cuts out after a short time which is crazy for a bench meter when powered by the mains. To get over this I modified the backlight. First I scraped the pcb track supplying the backlight and soldered wires onto the mains neutral and the 120v wire on the transformer (UK mains is 230v). This kept the backlight on whenever the meter had power but it was still dim. I then got a yellow backlight and 12v powered supply. After cleaning off the reflective coating from the back of the LCD and cutting off the little backlight locating peg, I replaced the backlight with the new one that was cut to size. The display is now very bright and clear even with a bright light on it. The old blue backlight was not too bad after removing the LCD reflective coating but the yellow backlight is better. The 12v power adapter is connected to the small power pcb output so is on all the time even if powered by batteries (which I never do). Now if only I could speed up the autoranging for resistance.
About $550...but I'm sure they would be cheaper in the US.
I didn't manage to find the software available for download in the web. Is there any chance that someone could upload it somewhere?
I'm out of specs in ma dc and ac with this isotech idm207, do you know if it is possible to calibrate it ?
I'm considering saving for one of these, Have you had it open for a look inside?
It's a APPA 207 bench multimeter
Have you considered Agilent U3401A?
Were to buy at in USA
Do you still have the idm-207? Want to sell it?
wow i didnt expect that bad continuity check , thats rely slow. Even my 10 bucks s chinese is faster quite a bit