*Remember that this saw needs to have adjustments made to make 0 or 90 cuts accurately **MyBest.Tools** I had to use a right angle on the deck and blade and then adjust the bolt to get the correct reading. Once this is done, it works great.*
Old video, but very useful. Once you square the blade, you can verify the square of the blade and fence with a single cut. Cut a piece of wood against the fence, and take one half of the cut and flip it over. Press the two pieces together, and if your blade is square to the fence, there will be no space between the sides of the cut piece.
Thanks for the vid! Different machine but similar fence - def got the idea from you. Speaking of the alignment, as long as the fence is 90 degree to the blade, your 0 will always read true. Then yeah, it's a matter of having an accurate casting for the stops.
FINALLY A VIDEO THAT HELPS ME. I HAVE AN ISSUE WITH CUTTING ACCURATE 45s. I have the 12" easyglide and YES THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD HAVA MUCH BETTER QUALITY CONTROL+1sub
The fence "might" be bridged by slapping on an actually straight length of aluminum extrusion instead of its factory-original cast fence. Extrusions are very straight, castings are typically bad. Give it a go, tell us how you`re doing. Thanks for watching!
Tips. Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing. .
although your method of squaring up would work for most cases when using a mitre saw, there is a much more accurate method for doing this, i think the vidoes called 5 cuts to a perfect cut or somthing, its done on a table saw but can be applied to mitre or compound saw
I'll be dammed , that might just work . I had no luck with a square against the blade , so I'll give this a shot before I try the cutting a piece of wood method
Nice vid but, I have the CM8S model and do not have the adjustment screws that your model has. After hours of research, I find no simple way to true the blade/carriage 90 to the fence without shims...unbelievable from Bosch!
his saw you cannot adjust,because the base detents are in the casting of the base,thats why he said,he hope the manufacturer did a good job with the casting,if it has been cast well,one the 90 degrees is set 45 and all othe angles should good too.
That line from the laser is set to the kerf created from the saw blade. We could use that as a reference line on the paper in place of an actual kerf made by the blade on that paper (tape). In fact, machines that have a laser guide will not need the paper at all, simply set the fence with reference to the laser line falling on the square.
Almost but not quite! Your "single cut" will only confirm that one half (the left half) is square to the blade. Your saw will make both a left hand and right hand cut. Each uses a different side of the one piece cast fence. The whole purpose of using this saw is the convenience of cutting both directions without turning your material upside down and backwards. If you cut one miter on the left and one on the right and they don't fit perfectly, it will drive you crazy! I spent a lot of money on a good saw and had this experience. It didn't take long to figure out by making one cut on each side of the blade, while keeping the same side of my stock against the fence that only one side was square. Rather than waste time with the manufacturer I turned my one piece fence into a two piece and set up each half individually. Now all of my cuts are perfect!
So are you saying you had some flex in your fence? If it's cast as one piece (and assuming both sides were true and coplanar) then having the fence bolts loose would result in an entirely square fence. Moving one side is also moving the other.
I’ve also gone through the extreme diagnosis process to get perfect cuts - you MUST make sure that saw miter saw base (the surface you place the wood upon) is flat! Use an accurate straight edge with feeler gauges to measure any unevenness. Then watch Insider Carpentry’s video on flattening a miter saw base. Miter saws, in general, have a lot of play in the arm itself so accuracy breaks down to having a calibrated tool and also the person making the cuts. Make sure you don’t crank the saw handle in one direction or another.
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*Remember that this saw needs to have adjustments made to make 0 or 90 cuts accurately **MyBest.Tools** I had to use a right angle on the deck and blade and then adjust the bolt to get the correct reading. Once this is done, it works great.*
Aw man! Great idea with the tape! Never thought of that...took me literally 5 minutes to square up! Excellent video sir!
Brilliant, that's just what i wanted to know , thanks for taking the time to share that , Baz
The masking take was GENIUS. Thx for taking the time to share.
Thx for watching
Old video, but very useful. Once you square the blade, you can verify the square of the blade and fence with a single cut. Cut a piece of wood against the fence, and take one half of the cut and flip it over. Press the two pieces together, and if your blade is square to the fence, there will be no space between the sides of the cut piece.
You sir are a genius.
Thanks for the vid! Different machine but similar fence - def got the idea from you. Speaking of the alignment, as long as the fence is 90 degree to the blade, your 0 will always read true. Then yeah, it's a matter of having an accurate casting for the stops.
I just noticed my fence is in a V ........ big sigh .... if your fence was in a V too, then the alignment is problematic.
FINALLY A VIDEO THAT HELPS ME. I HAVE AN ISSUE WITH CUTTING ACCURATE 45s. I have the 12" easyglide and YES THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD HAVA MUCH BETTER QUALITY CONTROL+1sub
Cheers, mate> I have afew more videos on tool geometry.
Thanks for watching!
You just saved me a lot of frustration. Thank you
Great to hear!
Interesting, thanx for the video.
Thanks for watching
Thanks. I will try this today on my crappy miter saw. If this doesn't work, it's going in the dumpster!
The fence "might" be bridged by slapping on an actually straight length of aluminum extrusion instead of its factory-original cast fence. Extrusions are very straight, castings are typically bad.
Give it a go, tell us how you`re doing.
Thanks for watching!
Tips.
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing. .
although your method of squaring up would work for most cases when using a mitre saw, there is a much more accurate method for doing this, i think the vidoes called 5 cuts to a perfect cut or somthing, its done on a table saw but can be applied to mitre or compound saw
nice trick with the masking tape
Nice technique!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks, works great! Is there a video for the vertical angle?
Vertical is quick checked by a small square, test cuts can be made likewise
You should have continued to the bevel because your instructions were excellent.
I did in 3 other titles, here is one th-cam.com/video/tltkViQszgU/w-d-xo.html
I'll be dammed , that might just work . I had no luck with a square against the blade , so I'll give this a shot before I try the cutting a piece of wood method
Nice vid but, I have the CM8S model and do not have the adjustment screws that your model has. After hours of research, I find no simple way to true the blade/carriage 90 to the fence without shims...unbelievable from Bosch!
No adjustment for the 45-degree angle?
his saw you cannot adjust,because the base detents are in the casting of the base,thats why he said,he hope the manufacturer did a good job with the casting,if it has been cast well,one the 90 degrees is set 45 and all othe angles should good too.
Maybe machines with a laser guide will help not make the actual cut, but align the fence and the square to the laser line.
Laser devices don`t make a square corner. They only shoot a point or a line.
That line from the laser is set to the kerf created from the saw blade. We could use that as a reference line on the paper in place of an actual kerf made by the blade on that paper (tape). In fact, machines that have a laser guide will not need the paper at all, simply set the fence with reference to the laser line falling on the square.
Almost but not quite!
Your "single cut" will only confirm that one half (the left half) is square to the blade. Your saw will make both a left hand and right hand cut. Each uses a different side of the one piece cast fence.
The whole purpose of using this saw is the convenience of cutting both directions without turning your material upside down and backwards.
If you cut one miter on the left and one on the right and they don't fit perfectly, it will drive you crazy!
I spent a lot of money on a good saw and had this experience. It didn't take long to figure out by making one cut on each side of the blade, while keeping the same side of my stock against the fence that only one side was square.
Rather than waste time with the manufacturer I turned my one piece fence into a two piece and set up each half individually.
Now all of my cuts are perfect!
Thanks for sharing!
So are you saying you had some flex in your fence? If it's cast as one piece (and assuming both sides were true and coplanar) then having the fence bolts loose would result in an entirely square fence. Moving one side is also moving the other.
I’ve also gone through the extreme diagnosis process to get perfect cuts - you MUST make sure that saw miter saw base (the surface you place the wood upon) is flat! Use an accurate straight edge with feeler gauges to measure any unevenness. Then watch Insider Carpentry’s video on flattening a miter saw base. Miter saws, in general, have a lot of play in the arm itself so accuracy breaks down to having a calibrated tool and also the person making the cuts. Make sure you don’t crank the saw handle in one direction or another.
Why do you sound like bane from Batman