Another drive type is the Torx head. They are becoming very popular. I personally like both the Torx drive and the square drive. You presented some good information here. Perhaps in the future you could expand on the subject by talking about thread types (fine/coarse) and head types (countersunk/others). Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I was kinda hoping that you would cover the metal types for hard and soft wood.. as well.. Joining vs. Mounting or attaching... stainless vs bronze vs steel vs... etc..
You should have mentioned brass screws and how soft the metal is. They're more likely to snap before they cam out. But I guess since your sponsor doesn't sell brass screws, that would be a non-starter. So, I suppose I'll have to fill that knowledge gap for your viewers. Brass screws are very soft and you need to take special precautions when using them. Before using them, you need to prepare the holes properly. 1. Flat head and Bugle head screws you first need to drill a countersink or counterbore to accept the tapered head. 2. You then need to drill a straight hole that's large enough to let the unthreaded part of the screw to sit freely within the screw-hole. It allows for wood movement to occur without binding and creating destructive tensions in the wood. 3. You need to drill a smaller diameter that corresponds to the root diameter of the threaded section of the screw. 4. Drive a STEEL screw of the same diameter and length sd your brass screwing into each hole, and then remove it. This prepares the hole for 5. Driving the brass screws without any hassle. An extra tip to help things look totally spiff... Always align the slot or drive holes in the same direction for each screw. This technique is called "clocking your screws". It's the sign of a woodworker who cares enough to make sure even the finest details are given proper attention. And one last BONUS tip. If you find a screw you need is out-of-stock, or that the screws you have are too long, you can still use them. You can use a hacksaw and a file to shorten them to fit the holes. This technique has been used used for centuries in old antiques.
McFeely's does sell Brass as well as Silicon Bronze Screws. You point out that drilling with a tapered drill bit because your Brass and Silicon Bronze screws are Traditional Screws where the shank diameter is the same as the outside (major diameter) of the threads. We cover all those points you mentioned on the website.
Don't come into my shop....I have flat heads older than you! Heck, they are older than me! I use Robertson (Square), Phillips, Flat, and Torx drive screws. Flat is 100% a homage to my grandfather which is where I got them from (several thousand actually). This is very similar to Drew over at "Fisher's Shop" where every project he does has at least one flat head screw in it.
Thanks for the analysis! Just a quick off-topic question: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Not everything has to be built to the standard of surviving a nuclear blast. There is a balance between strength, practicality and personal preference.
@@rons3507 Agreed, not everything has to be built to the highest standard. In fact new woodworkers should not even consider it, instead accept right from the start you are going to make some garbage, but do it anyway. Choosing the worst possible join intentionally though, that is just stupid.
Square drive will cam out just like phillips will. I rarely buy Robertson screws and much prefer the Torx head screws for as many of my construction jobs as possible. I have been doing construction and remodeling and restoration work for over 50 years and I do woodworking with hand tools only (no battery or powered tools) and you will never sell me on the Squared head screws as the best ones for woodworking. I imagine that Popular Woodworking has a vested interest in McFeely's who most certainly pays them to promote their products. Shame on you Popular Woodworking. If you truly are professionals you will certainly be aware of the serious issues with Robertson head screws.
The engineering function of a screw is like a clamp. Wood glue is used with screws most of the time. The threads and head of the screw pull the material together. Wood, by its nature, will expand and contract. If you have threads in the joint where the materials come together, as the wood moves, the screw will (push, unthread, or ream out) with the movement of the wood. When you have glue, the screw will always ream out as the glue is stronger. They will not work as a team to hold the materials. In decking, this is called board jacking. Most of us have seen it at the beach or the boardwalk. A screw is firmly in the support but the deck board is loose.
I admire your knowledge and experience. I also admire your methods of teaching. But you do one thing that drives me nuts. That is the use of "pre" as in pre-drill. You are not pre-drilling, you are drilling pilot holes. Pre means before, so then pre-drill means before drill. You even mention in the video that the bit in the fixture is a pilot bit. Therefore you use a pilot bit to drill a pilot hole. If you think about it the prefix "pre" is almost 100% not required. (As in pre-assembled, or pre-mixed, etc)🙂🙂 How is that for a rant. But seriously the use of the term Pre-drill is completely wrong.
@@rons3507 I imagine what Glen would have preferred (to be super precise) is that you would say to drill the pilot & then drive the screw - and this would also potentially correspond to settings on your drill/driver if you're using a "powered" device where you can switch modes/adjust the torque. Personally I don't mind the "error" b/c saying pre-drill helps to emphasize the "pre" part do you don't forget to do it :) .
Another drive type is the Torx head. They are becoming very popular. I personally like both the Torx drive and the square drive. You presented some good information here. Perhaps in the future you could expand on the subject by talking about thread types (fine/coarse) and head types (countersunk/others). Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
The square drive was invented by a Canadian by the name of Mr. Robertson hence the name for the Robertson screwdriver, not by a Mr. Feely
As with adhesives, the choice of fastener depends on the application.
I was kinda hoping that you would cover the metal types for hard and soft wood.. as well.. Joining vs. Mounting or attaching... stainless vs bronze vs steel vs... etc..
thanks
You should have mentioned brass screws and how soft the metal is. They're more likely to snap before they cam out. But I guess since your sponsor doesn't sell brass screws, that would be a non-starter. So, I suppose I'll have to fill that knowledge gap for your viewers.
Brass screws are very soft and you need to take special precautions when using them. Before using them, you need to prepare the holes properly. 1. Flat head and Bugle head screws you first need to drill a countersink or counterbore to accept the tapered head. 2. You then need to drill a straight hole that's large enough to let the unthreaded part of the screw to sit freely within the screw-hole. It allows for wood movement to occur without binding and creating destructive tensions in the wood. 3. You need to drill a smaller diameter that corresponds to the root diameter of the threaded section of the screw. 4. Drive a STEEL screw of the same diameter and length sd your brass screwing into each hole, and then remove it. This prepares the hole for 5. Driving the brass screws without any hassle.
An extra tip to help things look totally spiff... Always align the slot or drive holes in the same direction for each screw. This technique is called "clocking your screws". It's the sign of a woodworker who cares enough to make sure even the finest details are given proper attention.
And one last BONUS tip. If you find a screw you need is out-of-stock, or that the screws you have are too long, you can still use them. You can use a hacksaw and a file to shorten them to fit the holes. This technique has been used used for centuries in old antiques.
McFeely's does sell Brass as well as Silicon Bronze Screws. You point out that drilling with a tapered drill bit because your Brass and Silicon Bronze screws are Traditional Screws where the shank diameter is the same as the outside (major diameter) of the threads. We cover all those points you mentioned on the website.
Where is the link?
Fixed, sorry!
Don't come into my shop....I have flat heads older than you! Heck, they are older than me!
I use Robertson (Square), Phillips, Flat, and Torx drive screws. Flat is 100% a homage to my grandfather which is where I got them from (several thousand actually). This is very similar to Drew over at "Fisher's Shop" where every project he does has at least one flat head screw in it.
Thanks for the analysis! Just a quick off-topic question: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
You shouldn't. Screws are the worst way to join wood by a very wide margin.
Not everything has to be built to the standard of surviving a nuclear blast. There is a balance between strength, practicality and personal preference.
@@rons3507 Agreed, not everything has to be built to the highest standard. In fact new woodworkers should not even consider it, instead accept right from the start you are going to make some garbage, but do it anyway.
Choosing the worst possible join intentionally though, that is just stupid.
@@weedeater64 shh, nobody tell him about all the antique furniture held together with screws!
Square drive will cam out just like phillips will. I rarely buy Robertson screws and much prefer the Torx head screws for as many of my construction jobs as possible. I have been doing construction and remodeling and restoration work for over 50 years and I do woodworking with hand tools only (no battery or powered tools) and you will never sell me on the Squared head screws as the best ones for woodworking. I imagine that Popular Woodworking has a vested interest in McFeely's who most certainly pays them to promote their products. Shame on you Popular Woodworking. If you truly are professionals you will certainly be aware of the serious issues with Robertson head screws.
That’s bullshit about the thread length
Enlighten us
The engineering function of a screw is like a clamp. Wood glue is used with screws most of the time. The threads and head of the screw pull the material together. Wood, by its nature, will expand and contract. If you have threads in the joint where the materials come together, as the wood moves, the screw will (push, unthread, or ream out) with the movement of the wood. When you have glue, the screw will always ream out as the glue is stronger. They will not work as a team to hold the materials. In decking, this is called board jacking. Most of us have seen it at the beach or the boardwalk. A screw is firmly in the support but the deck board is loose.
I admire your knowledge and experience. I also admire your methods of teaching. But you do one thing that drives me nuts. That is the use of "pre" as in pre-drill. You are not pre-drilling, you are drilling pilot holes. Pre means before, so then pre-drill means before drill. You even mention in the video that the bit in the fixture is a pilot bit. Therefore you use a pilot bit to drill a pilot hole. If you think about it the prefix "pre" is almost 100% not required. (As in pre-assembled, or pre-mixed, etc)🙂🙂 How is that for a rant. But seriously the use of the term Pre-drill is completely wrong.
Drilling is the act of making a hole. If you don't pre drill the hole, then you are drilling it with the screw.
Symantics…….take a pill dude….everyone watching his video knows EXACTLY what he means…..
@@rons3507 I imagine what Glen would have preferred (to be super precise) is that you would say to drill the pilot & then drive the screw - and this would also potentially correspond to settings on your drill/driver if you're using a "powered" device where you can switch modes/adjust the torque. Personally I don't mind the "error" b/c saying pre-drill helps to emphasize the "pre" part do you don't forget to do it :) .