The one thing I love about your channel above all else, if your adherence to making changes that make a difference. Too many people mod their vehicles for looks first and utility second. As the owner of a Discovery II, I see all too often comments about "You should add a two inch lift and 32" tyres". To judge by most "off-road" vehicles I see about, very few see anything more off-road than the hard shoulder. Thank you for being the light of common sense, especially in the Jeep world.
I try my best, and although I've gone a bit "overboard" on this build compared to the past, I think it's a great chance to learn first hand the pros and cons of doing things differently than I have in the past.
I agree. I was looking at that tire size because F250/F350 Tremors use that size, meaning it should be sold in quantities, and it is a narrower than most 35" tires. .
I am really enjoying this build. The attention to detail not only in the construction process, but to the concept and purpose of each component and what it is there to do. It is also blatantly obvious that a lot of the decision making comes from real experience and a very sensible attitude to off-roading and overlanding. I respect very much the homage paid to the fact that the vehicle is intended to get from point A to point B on some of the most difficult routes of our our planet for the purpose of exploration and expedition. Naturally, off-roading is a fun thing to do, but I watch some channels and sometimes feel that they purposefully and unnecessarily choose the most difficult ways around an obstacle (river or whatever) when I think a true overlander would choose the easiest and less risky way when there is that choice. The only thing that I have to criticise about 'The Road Chose Me' is his fashion sense when buying shorts and I obviously say that tongue in cheek. I look forward to the next episode of this fantastic build by this very affable and humble man.
Haha, thanks very much! People always say to get more views you should but a bikini in the thumbnail. Do you want me to wear one of those instead? (haha, I joke). And you are 100% spot on. There were a TON of obstacles in the Congo when I was 10,000 miles from parts and any kind of infrastructure that were insane, and would have been incredibly fun "off roading". I drove the sneak route around all the ones I possibly could! Vehicle preservation is number one.
I’m looking forward to the long term results of your changes. Your decisions are always based on sound priorities and reasonable expectations for results. I like that you always have the manufacturers GVWR in mind, as you respect all the engineering decisions that were built into the design, and your upgrades don’t change suspension geometry, they harden it with resilience and reliability for the planned conditions. I learn a lot from your example.
I'd like to see a map of tires and wheels by country spread over the years. My parents had 14" wheels on their Buick's in the 70's and 80's. My dads pickups of that era had 16" steelies.
We have been really surprised how much difference little things like that make. For the longest time it looked like a box on the back of a Jeep.. then with a few finishing touches (coming next video) it suddenly looked integrated!
I expect you'll find this to be a great size tire on a Jeep. At 285/75/R18 you should still have plenty of sidewall. As for the AEV products, it's very difficult to argue results. They're clearly well sorted.
Nice! There's another unique tall/skinny tire size you might consider-the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss in LT255/85R17 (34.6” x 10”, 64lbs, E - 10 Ply). One thing to note however, they are asymmetrical, so need to be oriented correctly during rotations. Love the look of the black wheels!
When I was shopping for tires,, I found your first video on " Tall and Skinny " tires and wheels. I love " Steelies ". Sadly they (factory) are a bit difficult to find for my rig. Used for the spare only. So I used the original Alloys 🤷♂️. I went, one profile narrower and one taller than stock (255/70r-16). One of the best decisions of my build out. 👍👍 Thanks again, Cheers 🍻, G. In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇲
Loving the build. I too went with a skinny tire in my Jeep 35x10.5 Kenda Kleaver R/T and really have enjoyed them. I haven’t had the weight on them you will be, but I have towed and driven from New Hampshire to New Jersey and Florida on them with no issues. Also through the woods and class 6 roads with great success. Can’t wait to hear how you make out.
Lovin this build. AEV stuff might not be considered super fancy but is typically TUV approved which is saying something. I'm kinda surprised that you didn't try the new yoko at xd for its better cold weather performance. I may end up switch to the same steel combo on my gladiator to hell with having tire poke.
Dan, I understand your partnership with Yokohama. But, Micky Thomson has its Baja Boss AT tyers availible in 255/85R17 size, which is, in my opinion, absolutely perfect for not only your needs , but for overlading overall :) 😊 love your videos
@peterhanzlik9145 I agree that size is absolutely perfect, and I've been chatting to a certain tyre manufacturer about adding it to their list of sizes!
@@TheRoadChoseMe ....it is pretty much just Mickey Thompson and Kenda making A/T's in that size right now. That being said, the Baja Boss in 255/85R-17 is 34.6" tall. It is literally right in the middle between the 285/75R-17 (34.1) and the 285/75R-18 (35.1). So either way you are really only gaining or losing ¼" of ground clearance each way.
@@TheRoadChoseMe The 255/85r17 Baja Boss AT is listed at 34.6x9.8 or a 245/90r17(34.4×9.8) a 255/85r17 equals 34.1x10.2, I would prefer a 265/85r17 a true 35x10.5 tyre. Also a 265 width tyre would be less likely to debead from a 7.5 inch rim and protect the wheels lip better(the Jeeps rim width), especially with a 85% sidewall, a 255/85 is better fit on a 7 inch rim.
Random thoughts: For my African Prado, I would use the stock alloys and BFG All Terrains. I agree with you regarding using steel for remote travel but I'm never truly remote so I like the cost savings of using the stock rims and the characteristics of alloys for light touring and everyday use. BFGs because they're available everywhere. Your rim and tire size look good, skinnys are great! I think it's great you're pushing the boat out a bit, it's made me think. I reckon the odds that you HAVE to replace an 18" in remote places when you have a spare is very very low. The other counter argument is it reduces your sidewall height but on 35"s that point doesn't hold much water. How does having such a tall tire affect the jeep's power and gearing? Thanks for the great video Dan!
I have an entire drawer in my toolbox full of air tools...that I hardly use anymore ;-) Yes, they are a vast improvement over just using spanners. But modern battery power tools have the same improvement level over air tools but on steroids. I even bring my big 1/2-inch electric impact gun, 3/8ths driver, and drill with me when I go on long overland trips. Air tools are great but battery tools have dropped the need for the (LOUD!) compressor and faff of being tied to it with an air hose. And you already have the electric power onboard to charge them anyway. Of all my battery tools I think my fav is the big impact gun; it's has the extra grunt when you need it the most. The most used are the driver and the drill, followed by the disc cutter/grinder and the sawzall (reciprocating saw). Buy any one of them (any quality brand) and an extra battery and, trust me, you'll never look back! Stick to whatever brand you choose so your batteries are all interchangeable. Downside? Heavy. Worth it? Oh, dear god yes! Especially when you are far off the beaten path and you really need a drill to fix whatever just broke!!
Good choise. High and skinny makes sense, but obviously not enough people ask for them and so they are not produced or are only a couple of them. I did not find one tire model in 285/75R18 in Europe 😢
Build for function and reliability! I agree that wider is not better and do not like the wide tires that stick outside the fenders. I prefer to stick to stock sizes for the simple fact that it is easier to find replacement parts (tires and rims) if something goes terribly wrong. I like the suspension upgrade - something I will consider for my Gladiator! The lift is not important. I need the carrying capacity.
I put that same stabilizer on my Gladiator as an upgrade and it had a positive charge, it should be neutral or very close to. AEV warrantied it for me but the second one Had a positive charge as well. I hated having to fight to keep it on center. I eventually replaced it with the TeraFlex Falcon Nexus EF 2.1. It was substantially better.
First I had 265/70 R17 Tires on my 150 Prado - When I changed to 235/80 R17. Like the skinny one a lot more. Ride is better, except on the Autobahn/Highway. There the 265/70 R17 were a little bit better to drive because you dont need to corrigate the steering so much. But if you left this roads and use smaller side roads or go gravel roads or really offroad, the smaller tire is better. With less PSI the tire is so much smother than the 265/70 R17 with also less PSI. But they will never match if it get into bad roads, than you need a lot of rubber and a skinny tire. Biggest downside is that the skinny tires are lot less to choose from than from 265. But Yokohama now made there X-AT in 235/80 R17 so do other company's. I think we get some skinny back. But if you like skinny tires - why going with 285/75 R18? I think 255/80 R17 or 34x10.5 R17 would be better choose from. If it need to be a 35", than maybe 35x10.5R17 is the right one? Maybe you can find some steel wheels that fit over the brakes in 16". Than you can go 255/100 R16. There was a manufacture in Europe who had there 16" made, so it would fit over the JK (yeeah, I know you ve a JL/JT) Diesel (bigger than gasoline) brakes.
I run Bilstein 5160 remote resos on the LS LJ. Love them. Can only imagine how well the 8100's will ride. As for 18 vs 17, I'd personally go with 17's... but.... 35's on 18's is just like 33's on 17's so not that much difference. Plus less rolling mass with 18's will add up over time.
Camper is coming on fantastic Dan!Yes this build is not as attainable for your average guy. Compared to your other builds. This one is significantly more costly and complex. However it’s still pure to purpose. Not fitting parts because they look cool. Well thought out modifications that are a blend of on road and off road performance. For the kind off road you do. Which is adventure but not doing obstacles in remote locations. Which is obviously not wise when remote and on your own. 33” and regular shocks are sufficient. But like you say. You are trying different things. Do you need 35”? do you need remote reservoir shocks? - probably not. But your going to find out! A lot of people who get into 4x4ing/over landing or whatever you want to call it seem to go full circle. Mods on top of mods on top of mods till one day they realize they have built an overweight pig 🐖. That is horrible on gas. Is hard to control and will roll over on the slightest off camber. Then they start removing mods to make it lighter and end up somewhere back where they started sometimes in a ground tent. Your channel helps people to not fall into that trap. Makes you question the value and benefit of each modification. You are saving people thousands of $$ with your advice Dan. -Real world advice. 👊
This is a epic build, top notch. Im considering upgrading to that size tire on my Ram 2500 to get a little more clarence for my huge differentials that hang down worse than a saggy nut sack. If I can fit that size in the stock spare tire location I'll upgrade otherwise I'll stay with stock size, swing out tire carriers are a no go for me.
Supposedly a 35" will fit but after sliding under there it looks tight between the trailer hitch and exhaust tailpipe. I swear 90 percent of people install larger tires and leave the stock spare.
Trying to bend a steel wheel back into shape is extremely difficult. You need something to hold the wheel in place, and a really large sledge hammer, where you then pound on it for longer than you might think. Its also been proven that steel wheels bend long before a quality alloy wheel takes any damage. BUT, I do dig the look of the OE steel wheels. And being able to weld on it is a valid point in a crunch.
@@TheRoadChoseMe The hard part is holding the wheel down. Otherwise every time you hit it, it moves, absorbing the energy of the hit. I have seen it done where you drive up onto the wheel with another vehicle, and then you can bang away on it.
@Stuka87 That's a great idea, thanks very much. I had been thinking about putting it against a concrete pylon or something, but changes are then you just damage that side while hitting the other. I like the idea of driving onto it! To be honest I don't carry tire levers big enough to get the tire off the rim anyway, so no matter what I'll be in some kind of village where I can get help from guys who I'm sure have done this kind of thing before (like the guys who welded my mirror back on in Uganda)
THX for bringing up the narrow 35" Version in 18"! I was not aware that such a tire exists! Though actually it does not exist at least in Germany: The is NO brand tire in 285/75-18, only 1 CN tire. Alu vs steel wheels: IF one has such a problem that not only a offroad tire fails but in addition the wheel is destroyed - the wheel itself is the least important problem! Choose a different driver - especially as you were talking about an "overlander", not a rockcrawler. The benefit of alu is: - weight - heat! Any diskbarke is nothing else than a heatsink! The more material you have the better (aka longer) it works. A steel rim does not have a good ventilation! And secondly: An Alu rim transfers the heat way better away from the disk! When you touch the wheel after driving, you know what I mean.
I've seen a few aluminium wheels crack just from going over a rock ledge or hitting a pot hole. I hit enough massive pot holes in Africa to make me certain I don't want to run that risk
Maybe - but what QUALITY has that alu rim been? Here in Germany and similar to EU, you are only allowed to drive a rim in the street that has been officially tested and a certification. So nothing like the stuff I see daily on the internet from US markets. No wonder. I recently overlooked a sidewalk corner with my R55 Mini. A lowered one, with an extremly hard suspension and 17" low profile tires. I hit that corner with 52km/h and the Mini jumped in the air. Nothing happend.@@TheRoadChoseMe
I hit multiple potholes in Africa hard enough to make the rear of the Jeep bounce off the ground... at it probably weighs 2 or 3 times what your mini does...
My Mini has a racing suspension with 5 cm travel, a 45% height tire and I hit a 5" vertical upwards! a Jeep has 30cm travel and 75% height tire. Mini: 1200kg, I doubt that a Jeep is correctly loaded when 3600 - 4800kg The relevant fact is: Quality rims, this is why I posted that in capital letters, probably overlooked. A forged Alu rim is stronger and lighter than steel, though very expensive. Besides that: ALL LEGAL wheels in GER have done a material testing and load rating. We can also buy cheap US wheels here, that no-one has a clue if the casting is from good quality; so those are not allowed. Those are though sold in the US and other markets. THOSE will fail - for sure. What I also constantly see/read: People putting tires on, that are NOT in the correct width for the rim, false tire pressure. And of course overloading and no glasses. The advantage in brake cooling is anyway more important in real life and good glasses.@@TheRoadChoseMe
That is looking good. The two jeeps look amazing in caravan. Is Michael going to travel with you when you are done? Congrats for doing things you've never done before.
Dan, just another tire to consider if you go back to a 17 inch wheel. Mickey Thompson baja boss AT makes a 255/85/17 E, which is slightly more narrow than what you are running. I know how you feel about the Yokohama's, but thought I'd throw another option out. I've run them on my Gladiator for over a year now, on and off road, through blizzards from Vancouver to Calgary, and plenty of rain. I've got only good things to say about them.
Great to hear. I really, really like that size. Do you know if it's snowflake rated? That's a must here for the winter, although the X-ATs are not, so I run a dedicated winter tire.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Just to add, they obviously won't be as good in snow as a dedicated winter tire, but for a tire that may see all types of conditions on a trip, they're a sold choice
Dan: I've got 16" wheels on my truck, and I really like your comment on another video about steel wheels with recessed valve stems. What company made your 16" steel wheels?
Great video! If you do choose to keep this tire size, how will you source, or how would you think about sourcing a potential replacement in more remote parts of the world?
These are Mopar 18 inch wheels from a Commander actually. I got part number 4755212AC from MyMoparParts. Be careful what tires you run, anything wider than mine and the offset will not allow them to work without wheel spacers (as it is mine are *very* close to rubbing at full lock)
@@TheRoadChoseMe Dan, Thank you and I am listening to your advise/coaching re tire size..........I have a Gladiator with the MOPAR 2" lift which is just about to need new tires......so this is timely! I was going to contact Stockton Wheel to have them build me steelies like that Gladiator concept truck has which I like........these 18" MOPAR wheels may just do the trick though.....Changing subjects: Congratulations on your new Jeep build! I am impressed! I am interested to follow along to learn how that diesel engine behaves over time! Hope to see you on the trail some day, my friend! Happy Thanksgiving! Max
Thanks Max! You can run the gladiator spare steelies no problem - they're 17s and it's what I ran for all of Australia on my Gladiator. Again, you can't go wide like a 12.5 without spacers, the backspacing won't allow it.
Looking forward to more progress. Looks like this would be a welcome new alternative to roof top tents, Ursa Minor and XL Conversions. Granted, those kits can all be returned to stock and this …well, not so much. That would be the advantage of a gladiator bed removal with rear window pass through. It would be reversible. I liked all the pros and cons from you first video to now. I’m interested to see the layout of the completed product as I have considered this type of project to replace my Four Wheel Camper on Tundra and 4x4 Sprinter. I’m wondering if purchasing a wrecked Rear-Ended Wrangler would reduce the cost and some of the sting of cutting apart a new Jeep?
We thought about getting a Wrangler with rear-end damage too, but the risk of frame or axle damage was too high. I think it would be like finding a needle in a haystack to find one with just enough damage, but not too much.
I agree. I might start looking if I knew there would be a 3rd unit built. And if he does decide to move forward-he’ll have these excellent videos to document the installation process. Maybe once it is tested, refined and future market potential established, licensing another manufacturer to put this into production would be an option? It would leave him free to travel and tackle new creative projects. Subscribed and looking forward to seeing where this goes.
The EcoDiesel has so much torque it doesn't matter. Plenty of people run 37s without regearing it no problem. I'll never go tires that large, so I'll be fine.
Keep in mind, when you torque the lower or upper control arms, the suspension has to be loaded, otherwise the bushings will bind up under flex or get damaged.
I'm 90% sure I'm getting this same suspension for my Gladiator, since I'm installing the GFC wedge camper to facilitate longer journeys. I still have the factory Rubicon suspension. Did you omit the control arm geometry correction brackets? They're my single hesitation on the kit. I'm concerned with hitting them on rocks or bending them since I still do moderate offroad trails (not true crawling, but things that absolutely flex the truck).
I did install them, but neglected to film it because I was exhausted! (sorry). I had them for all of Africa, and talking to AEV they've only ever had like 2 sets fail or have problems. They're extremely tough, and I think they're 100% worthwhile.
@TheRoadChoseMe Thank you for the response; it's reassuring. And thanks for the build videos like this - they're engaging and give us a continued understanding of your process and reasoning.
Curious to see how you like the external reservoir shocks. IMHO, a significant vulnerability with no benefit to anyone but desert racers; but I’m eager to hear your experience.
As a desert racer (Sahara and Baja) and an international overlander, I think I can add some experience. The main benefit to both racers and overlanders is reducing shock fade due to corrugations and the ability to tune the shock to your needs. Are the reservoirs vulnerable? Not really. You would have to really, really try to hurt the reservoirs and hoses. The extra volume of fluid significantly helps the shock to keep working in the worst conditions. Remote reservoir shocks are generally rebuildable and not throwaway items. More importantly, they can usually be tuned for your specific compression and rebound needs to make your ride as good as possible. But, they are expensive. Are they *necessary*? No. But worth it if you can afford them. Alternative? Yes, Koni Raid or Heavy Track shocks. The Koni shocks are larger than regular shocks to have more fluid volume and are 4-position tunable. They are rebuildable as well. And while not cheap, they are a fraction of the price of good quality remote reservoir shocks. I firmly believe in the motto of "buy once, cry once". I think the Koni's are the best performance and value for the money available. That's my tuppence worth, anyway!
Mopar steel 18" wheels from a Grand Cherokee. You have to be careful how wide the tires are, anything more than 285 you'll need spacers (even then it's mighty, mighty close).
Dan, I put 35s on a 2 door JK i had and i did find the brakes seemed softer after that given the extra weight and rotational inertia. Did you upgrade your brakes as well or stay stock?
Hey mate, did you torque your bushes with the vehicle resting on the tyres, full weight on everything or still jacked up? If you do them up while the suspension is hanging at full droop you will quickly destroy your bushes as they are locked in an abnormal arch and now under tension.
Interested to see you not fit rear airbags. Is there a reason for that? Agree that height is more important than width. Our Defender has Hankook Dynapro AT 235/85/16LTs, which are fine.
I feel like airbags are just more complexity and another thing to spend money on, maintain and that could fail. Less is more. If I don't need them, I don't want them.
The wheel and tire combo looks great. For the weight/handling evaluation, the final build out and load is of course the best. However, in the short term is it worth mocking up the load using sandbags or similar?
@@TheRoadChoseMe The strength of a tube vs. stamped metal. I've seen plenty of bent control arms. It was more of a rock crawling environment, but in lightly loaded vehicles. You can also get adjustable control arms which allow you to trade off castor for driveshaft u-joint angle.
I did 54,000 miles around Africa on the worst roads in the world with a heavily loaded Wrangler without a control arm problem. I did 36,000 miles around Australia on the toughest tracks and desert crossings in the heavily loaded Gladiator without a control arm problem. I suspect the problems come with monster tires, lots of right foot and smashing into large rocks - none of which I have any interest in. I have AEV's Geo correction brackets up front, so the angles are all correct.
Are there any concerns about the axle hubs getting dirt/mud/ice etc. in them without caps on them, making them hard to work on? For example if you break an axle shaft or need to replace a wheel bearing?
I was wondering about that too, and I'll be honest with you, I'm not an expert. My axle hubs were exposed for all of Africa, and I opened up the fronts in South Africa to do the front u-joints and had no problem. I have not had them open since then
I remember you saying that for worldwide overlanding you'd never choose 35s over 33s. Could you explain, what did change your mind? I am a bit lost. In my mind I was for 33s after what you said before and now this.
To be honest I still think 33s make more sense, and what I've done here isn't because I think they're better. It's just me trying something new so I can learn first hand, and have better experience. If I'm going to go around saying 33s are better than 35s, I think it would mean more if I'd actually had both so I can have that first hand comparison. I think it's likely I'll get rid of these at some point and go back to my usual 33, maybe even before I stuff it in a container.
I've got the diesel with 420ft lbs of torque, so a regar is just not needed. Plenty of people run 37X12.5 with this engine and gearing and it's perfectly fine. I will never run tires big enough to need a regear, I'd rather spend that money on gas in the tank for adventures
@bradj9870 Honestly I agree, and as I said I'm doing this to learn first hand if they really are justified. You'll know by whatever I do on my next build. (and I'll do a review video after some hard travel miles on these)
It will get cosmetically scratched and scuffed, but I think it will take a lot of abuse before it actually gets damaged. That said I'm not eager to drive it on really, really overgrown or tight tracks with lots of low branches and stuff. Maybe I better go places where there aren't many trees....
You're right that things are not necessarily happening in the "best" order. Some of this was dictated by shipping delays, some by workshop availability and some by the need to get it rolling and on display at a few overland shows this summer. I'm really hoping I can stick with things springs forever, but if it winds up heavier than I want I'll go with the high capacity ones. The shocks and everything else will stay the same regardless.
I believe that you should have just used your old JK and just went with a 5.3 ls and 480 conversion . Just not trusting the new FCA stuff for long term .
I'm afraid that you're going the route of so many others. Once people get a good following it's time to cash in! Overlanding shows, photo shoots, magazine articles and on and on. It's no longer about the adventure, it's the recognition and profits. I hope it's not going to happen to you.
Want to know where in the world I'm shipping this Jeep camper?
Find out now on Patreon! - patreon.com/theroadchoseme
The one thing I love about your channel above all else, if your adherence to making changes that make a difference. Too many people mod their vehicles for looks first and utility second. As the owner of a Discovery II, I see all too often comments about "You should add a two inch lift and 32" tyres". To judge by most "off-road" vehicles I see about, very few see anything more off-road than the hard shoulder. Thank you for being the light of common sense, especially in the Jeep world.
I try my best, and although I've gone a bit "overboard" on this build compared to the past, I think it's a great chance to learn first hand the pros and cons of doing things differently than I have in the past.
AEV Quality is second to none. I love their stuff
Big fan of the 285/75/18 size, wish more companies offered it.
I agree. I was looking at that tire size because F250/F350 Tremors use that size, meaning it should be sold in quantities, and it is a narrower than most 35" tires. .
This is the size tire I went with on my non Tremor f250.@@LX450_Adventure
I am really enjoying this build. The attention to detail not only in the construction process, but to the concept and purpose of each component and what it is there to do. It is also blatantly obvious that a lot of the decision making comes from real experience and a very sensible attitude to off-roading and overlanding. I respect very much the homage paid to the fact that the vehicle is intended to get from point A to point B on some of the most difficult routes of our our planet for the purpose of exploration and expedition. Naturally, off-roading is a fun thing to do, but I watch some channels and sometimes feel that they purposefully and unnecessarily choose the most difficult ways around an obstacle (river or whatever) when I think a true overlander would choose the easiest and less risky way when there is that choice. The only thing that I have to criticise about 'The Road Chose Me' is his fashion sense when buying shorts and I obviously say that tongue in cheek. I look forward to the next episode of this fantastic build by this very affable and humble man.
Haha, thanks very much! People always say to get more views you should but a bikini in the thumbnail. Do you want me to wear one of those instead? (haha, I joke).
And you are 100% spot on. There were a TON of obstacles in the Congo when I was 10,000 miles from parts and any kind of infrastructure that were insane, and would have been incredibly fun "off roading". I drove the sneak route around all the ones I possibly could! Vehicle preservation is number one.
Dan, You've built a beautiful truck.
The tire size is spot on! Very functional and purpose built.
Looking forward to seeing how the truck preforms.
Awesome choice.. I like the look of steel wheels and the advantages they offer.
I’m looking forward to the long term results of your changes. Your decisions are always based on sound priorities and reasonable expectations for results. I like that you always have the manufacturers GVWR in mind, as you respect all the engineering decisions that were built into the design, and your upgrades don’t change suspension geometry, they harden it with resilience and reliability for the planned conditions. I learn a lot from your example.
I'd like to see a map of tires and wheels by country spread over the years. My parents had 14" wheels on their Buick's in the 70's and 80's. My dads pickups of that era had 16" steelies.
Looking great! It’s the little details, like the painting of the wheel hubs, that make all the difference.
We have been really surprised how much difference little things like that make.
For the longest time it looked like a box on the back of a Jeep.. then with a few finishing touches (coming next video) it suddenly looked integrated!
I expect you'll find this to be a great size tire on a Jeep. At 285/75/R18 you should still have plenty of sidewall. As for the AEV products, it's very difficult to argue results. They're clearly well sorted.
Nice! There's another unique tall/skinny tire size you might consider-the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss in LT255/85R17 (34.6” x 10”, 64lbs, E - 10 Ply). One thing to note however, they are asymmetrical, so need to be oriented correctly during rotations. Love the look of the black wheels!
They are asymmetrical not directional. Once mounted correctly they can be rotated to any position.
When I was shopping for tires,, I found your first video on
" Tall and Skinny " tires and wheels.
I love " Steelies ". Sadly they (factory) are a bit difficult to find for my rig. Used for the spare only.
So I used the original Alloys 🤷♂️.
I went, one profile narrower and one taller than stock (255/70r-16).
One of the best decisions of my build out. 👍👍
Thanks again,
Cheers 🍻, G. In beautiful Boulder City Nv. USA 🇺🇲
Great to hear!
It's cool you use skinny tires since there's more evidence that they perform better or the same as wide tires in many situations
Loving the build. I too went with a skinny tire in my Jeep 35x10.5 Kenda Kleaver R/T and really have enjoyed them. I haven’t had the weight on them you will be, but I have towed and driven from New Hampshire to New Jersey and Florida on them with no issues. Also through the woods and class 6 roads with great success. Can’t wait to hear how you make out.
As always - I love this build and your videos!
Thank you so much!
Lovin this build. AEV stuff might not be considered super fancy but is typically TUV approved which is saying something. I'm kinda surprised that you didn't try the new yoko at xd for its better cold weather performance. I may end up switch to the same steel combo on my gladiator to hell with having tire poke.
Yeah, looks good, Dan.
Pretty sure this setup won’t let you down. Not going to win any style points awards, though.
It's a very nice built you make. All the thinkin's done now to travel with a peace of mind. 👍
Thanks very much! Still a ton of work to go with the popup, bed, all the wiring, solar and plumbing. But it's coming along!
Dan, I understand your partnership with Yokohama. But, Micky Thomson has its Baja Boss AT tyers availible in 255/85R17 size, which is, in my opinion, absolutely perfect for not only your needs , but for overlading overall :) 😊 love your videos
That is the tire I am running currently. It was a major upgrade from the 295/70R-18's I ran last year. (Both were M. T. B. B. A/T's.)
Ha I just made a similar comment before reading yours. I have that exact tire on my Gladiator and it's been fantastic.
@peterhanzlik9145 I agree that size is absolutely perfect, and I've been chatting to a certain tyre manufacturer about adding it to their list of sizes!
@@TheRoadChoseMe ....it is pretty much just Mickey Thompson and Kenda making A/T's in that size right now.
That being said, the Baja Boss in 255/85R-17 is 34.6" tall. It is literally right in the middle between the 285/75R-17 (34.1) and the 285/75R-18 (35.1). So either way you are really only gaining or losing ¼" of ground clearance each way.
@@TheRoadChoseMe The 255/85r17 Baja Boss AT is listed at 34.6x9.8 or a 245/90r17(34.4×9.8) a 255/85r17 equals 34.1x10.2, I would prefer a 265/85r17 a true 35x10.5 tyre. Also a 265 width tyre would be less likely to debead from a 7.5 inch rim and protect the wheels lip better(the Jeeps rim width), especially with a 85% sidewall, a 255/85 is better fit on a 7 inch rim.
Random thoughts:
For my African Prado, I would use the stock alloys and BFG All Terrains. I agree with you regarding using steel for remote travel but I'm never truly remote so I like the cost savings of using the stock rims and the characteristics of alloys for light touring and everyday use. BFGs because they're available everywhere.
Your rim and tire size look good, skinnys are great! I think it's great you're pushing the boat out a bit, it's made me think. I reckon the odds that you HAVE to replace an 18" in remote places when you have a spare is very very low. The other counter argument is it reduces your sidewall height but on 35"s that point doesn't hold much water.
How does having such a tall tire affect the jeep's power and gearing?
Thanks for the great video Dan!
The Jeep is a diesel with massive amounts of torque, so it barely changed anything.
I have an entire drawer in my toolbox full of air tools...that I hardly use anymore ;-) Yes, they are a vast improvement over just using spanners. But modern battery power tools have the same improvement level over air tools but on steroids. I even bring my big 1/2-inch electric impact gun, 3/8ths driver, and drill with me when I go on long overland trips. Air tools are great but battery tools have dropped the need for the (LOUD!) compressor and faff of being tied to it with an air hose. And you already have the electric power onboard to charge them anyway. Of all my battery tools I think my fav is the big impact gun; it's has the extra grunt when you need it the most. The most used are the driver and the drill, followed by the disc cutter/grinder and the sawzall (reciprocating saw). Buy any one of them (any quality brand) and an extra battery and, trust me, you'll never look back! Stick to whatever brand you choose so your batteries are all interchangeable. Downside? Heavy. Worth it? Oh, dear god yes! Especially when you are far off the beaten path and you really need a drill to fix whatever just broke!!
love it as usual Sebastian
Good choise. High and skinny makes sense, but obviously not enough people ask for them and so they are not produced or are only a couple of them. I did not find one tire model in 285/75R18 in Europe 😢
Good Choice in a Lift, I use The same one. I love it
Right on
That’s how it starts! 33” to 35” to 37” lol
haha, welcome to the dark side!
Build for function and reliability! I agree that wider is not better and do not like the wide tires that stick outside the fenders. I prefer to stick to stock sizes for the simple fact that it is easier to find replacement parts (tires and rims) if something goes terribly wrong. I like the suspension upgrade - something I will consider for my Gladiator! The lift is not important. I need the carrying capacity.
I love this build!!!
This is the same size tire that I have on my f250. They should work out really good on your Jeep.
Sensible choices as always.
Looking great. Don't forget the Speedo correction if the wheel diameter is bigger than stock.
Really like the steel rims.
Yep, thanks, I programmed the size in, and at 65mph it is dead on with a GPS
I put that same stabilizer on my Gladiator as an upgrade and it had a positive charge, it should be neutral or very close to. AEV warrantied it for me but the second one Had a positive charge as well. I hated having to fight to keep it on center. I eventually replaced it with the TeraFlex Falcon Nexus EF 2.1. It was substantially better.
It looks very Nice! Well Done Dan!
Thanks a bunch!
First I had 265/70 R17 Tires on my 150 Prado - When I changed to 235/80 R17. Like the skinny one a lot more. Ride is better, except on the Autobahn/Highway. There the 265/70 R17 were a little bit better to drive because you dont need to corrigate the steering so much. But if you left this roads and use smaller side roads or go gravel roads or really offroad, the smaller tire is better. With less PSI the tire is so much smother than the 265/70 R17 with also less PSI. But they will never match if it get into bad roads, than you need a lot of rubber and a skinny tire.
Biggest downside is that the skinny tires are lot less to choose from than from 265. But Yokohama now made there X-AT in 235/80 R17 so do other company's. I think we get some skinny back.
But if you like skinny tires - why going with 285/75 R18? I think 255/80 R17 or 34x10.5 R17 would be better choose from. If it need to be a 35", than maybe 35x10.5R17 is the right one? Maybe you can find some steel wheels that fit over the brakes in 16". Than you can go 255/100 R16. There was a manufacture in Europe who had there 16" made, so it would fit over the JK (yeeah, I know you ve a JL/JT) Diesel (bigger than gasoline) brakes.
3:45 Dan technically those are Piggyback Reservoir and not Remote since the reservoirs are attached to the shock body.
Your front shocks are Remote.
I run Bilstein 5160 remote resos on the LS LJ. Love them. Can only imagine how well the 8100's will ride. As for 18 vs 17, I'd personally go with 17's... but.... 35's on 18's is just like 33's on 17's so not that much difference. Plus less rolling mass with 18's will add up over time.
It is literally like a 34" on a 17" wheel, or a 33" on a 16" wheel.
Camper is coming on fantastic Dan!Yes this build is not as attainable for your average guy. Compared to your other builds. This one is significantly more costly and complex. However it’s still pure to purpose. Not fitting parts because they look cool. Well thought out modifications that are a blend of on road and off road performance. For the kind off road you do. Which is adventure but not doing obstacles in remote locations. Which is obviously not wise when remote and on your own. 33” and regular shocks are sufficient. But like you say. You are trying different things. Do you need 35”? do you need remote reservoir shocks? - probably not. But your going to find out!
A lot of people who get into 4x4ing/over landing or whatever you want to call it seem to go full circle. Mods on top of mods on top of mods till one day they realize they have built an overweight pig 🐖. That is horrible on gas. Is hard to control and will roll over on the slightest off camber. Then they start removing mods to make it lighter and end up somewhere back where they started sometimes in a ground tent. Your channel helps people to not fall into that trap. Makes you question the value and benefit of each modification.
You are saving people thousands of $$ with your advice Dan. -Real world advice. 👊
Thanks for the feedback, I'm happy to hear you appreciate my approach.
Also I think you're right, I'll probably be back at 33s again sometime soon.
This is a epic build, top notch. Im considering upgrading to that size tire on my Ram 2500 to get a little more clarence for my huge differentials that hang down worse than a saggy nut sack. If I can fit that size in the stock spare tire location I'll upgrade otherwise I'll stay with stock size, swing out tire carriers are a no go for me.
There must be tons of info online about if a 35x12.5 fits in the stock spare tire location - if yes, then these will fit for sure.
Supposedly a 35" will fit but after sliding under there it looks tight between the trailer hitch and exhaust tailpipe. I swear 90 percent of people install larger tires and leave the stock spare.
Trying to bend a steel wheel back into shape is extremely difficult. You need something to hold the wheel in place, and a really large sledge hammer, where you then pound on it for longer than you might think. Its also been proven that steel wheels bend long before a quality alloy wheel takes any damage. BUT, I do dig the look of the OE steel wheels. And being able to weld on it is a valid point in a crunch.
Thanks for the info, I have never tried to bend one back so it's good to know it's harder than I had been thinking.
@@TheRoadChoseMe The hard part is holding the wheel down. Otherwise every time you hit it, it moves, absorbing the energy of the hit. I have seen it done where you drive up onto the wheel with another vehicle, and then you can bang away on it.
@Stuka87 That's a great idea, thanks very much. I had been thinking about putting it against a concrete pylon or something, but changes are then you just damage that side while hitting the other. I like the idea of driving onto it!
To be honest I don't carry tire levers big enough to get the tire off the rim anyway, so no matter what I'll be in some kind of village where I can get help from guys who I'm sure have done this kind of thing before (like the guys who welded my mirror back on in Uganda)
I’d go the other way. Good old 15” wheels and 33x9.50’s ….. now that’s tall and skinny. 😂
Sadly 15" rims won't clear the brakes on these newer vehicles
THX for bringing up the narrow 35" Version in 18"!
I was not aware that such a tire exists! Though actually it does not exist at least in Germany: The is NO brand tire in 285/75-18, only 1 CN tire.
Alu vs steel wheels: IF one has such a problem that not only a offroad tire fails but in addition the wheel is destroyed - the wheel itself is the least important problem! Choose a different driver - especially as you were talking about an "overlander", not a rockcrawler.
The benefit of alu is:
- weight
- heat! Any diskbarke is nothing else than a heatsink! The more material you have the better (aka longer) it works. A steel rim does not have a good ventilation! And secondly: An Alu rim transfers the heat way better away from the disk!
When you touch the wheel after driving, you know what I mean.
I've seen a few aluminium wheels crack just from going over a rock ledge or hitting a pot hole. I hit enough massive pot holes in Africa to make me certain I don't want to run that risk
Maybe - but what QUALITY has that alu rim been?
Here in Germany and similar to EU, you are only allowed to drive a rim in the street that has been officially tested and a certification.
So nothing like the stuff I see daily on the internet from US markets. No wonder.
I recently overlooked a sidewalk corner with my R55 Mini. A lowered one, with an extremly hard suspension and 17" low profile tires. I hit that corner with 52km/h and the Mini jumped in the air.
Nothing happend.@@TheRoadChoseMe
I hit multiple potholes in Africa hard enough to make the rear of the Jeep bounce off the ground... at it probably weighs 2 or 3 times what your mini does...
My Mini has a racing suspension with 5 cm travel, a 45% height tire and I hit a 5" vertical upwards! a Jeep has 30cm travel and 75% height tire.
Mini: 1200kg, I doubt that a Jeep is correctly loaded when 3600 - 4800kg
The relevant fact is: Quality rims, this is why I posted that in capital letters, probably overlooked. A forged Alu rim is stronger and lighter than steel, though very expensive.
Besides that: ALL LEGAL wheels in GER have done a material testing and load rating.
We can also buy cheap US wheels here, that no-one has a clue if the casting is from good quality; so those are not allowed. Those are though sold in the US and other markets. THOSE will fail - for sure.
What I also constantly see/read: People putting tires on, that are NOT in the correct width for the rim, false tire pressure. And of course overloading and no glasses.
The advantage in brake cooling is anyway more important in real life and good glasses.@@TheRoadChoseMe
Sounds like they're ideal for you, that's great to hear
That is looking good. The two jeeps look amazing in caravan. Is Michael going to travel with you when you are done? Congrats for doing things you've never done before.
We've tossed around that idea, but nothing is locked in yet. Tons of things have to fall into place
great choices
Dan, just another tire to consider if you go back to a 17 inch wheel. Mickey Thompson baja boss AT makes a 255/85/17 E, which is slightly more narrow than what you are running. I know how you feel about the Yokohama's, but thought I'd throw another option out. I've run them on my Gladiator for over a year now, on and off road, through blizzards from Vancouver to Calgary, and plenty of rain. I've got only good things to say about them.
Great to hear. I really, really like that size.
Do you know if it's snowflake rated? That's a must here for the winter, although the X-ATs are not, so I run a dedicated winter tire.
@@TheRoadChoseMe They do have the snowflake rating. It was a requirement for me as I drive the Coquihalla and Crowsnest frequently in the winter.
@@TheRoadChoseMe Just to add, they obviously won't be as good in snow as a dedicated winter tire, but for a tire that may see all types of conditions on a trip, they're a sold choice
Thanks, that's really good to know
Dan: I've got 16" wheels on my truck, and I really like your comment on another video about steel wheels with recessed valve stems. What company made your 16" steel wheels?
I've never had 16s sorry. For the pan-am the little jeep had 15s. Africa and Australia were 17s and this new one is 18s
It surprises me that with your Canadian sensibilities, you didn't use Elkas! :))
Great video! If you do choose to keep this tire size, how will you source, or how would you think about sourcing a potential replacement in more remote parts of the world?
I won't for that very reason.
Thanks.........looks like a good setup. Please spec the wheels and their source if possible? Take care out there.
These are Mopar 18 inch wheels from a Commander actually.
I got part number 4755212AC from MyMoparParts.
Be careful what tires you run, anything wider than mine and the offset will not allow them to work without wheel spacers (as it is mine are *very* close to rubbing at full lock)
@@TheRoadChoseMe Dan, Thank you and I am listening to your advise/coaching re tire size..........I have a Gladiator with the MOPAR 2" lift which is just about to need new tires......so this is timely! I was going to contact Stockton Wheel to have them build me steelies like that Gladiator concept truck has which I like........these 18" MOPAR wheels may just do the trick though.....Changing subjects: Congratulations on your new Jeep build! I am impressed! I am interested to follow along to learn how that diesel engine behaves over time! Hope to see you on the trail some day, my friend! Happy Thanksgiving! Max
Thanks Max!
You can run the gladiator spare steelies no problem - they're 17s and it's what I ran for all of Australia on my Gladiator. Again, you can't go wide like a 12.5 without spacers, the backspacing won't allow it.
Looks cool.
You're gonna want some rock guard on the shafts of those shocks or they will eventually become pitted and leak.
Looking forward to more progress.
Looks like this would be a welcome new alternative to roof top tents, Ursa Minor and XL Conversions.
Granted, those kits can all be returned to stock and this …well, not so much.
That would be the advantage of a gladiator bed removal with rear window pass through. It would be reversible.
I liked all the pros and cons from you first video to now.
I’m interested to see the layout of the completed product as I have considered this type of project to replace my Four Wheel Camper on Tundra and 4x4 Sprinter.
I’m wondering if purchasing a wrecked Rear-Ended Wrangler would reduce the cost and some of the sting of cutting apart a new Jeep?
We thought about getting a Wrangler with rear-end damage too, but the risk of frame or axle damage was too high. I think it would be like finding a needle in a haystack to find one with just enough damage, but not too much.
I agree. I might start looking if I knew there would be a 3rd unit built.
And if he does decide to move forward-he’ll have these excellent videos to document the installation process.
Maybe once it is tested, refined and future market potential established, licensing another manufacturer to put this into production would be an option? It would leave him free to travel and tackle new creative projects.
Subscribed and looking forward to seeing where this goes.
AEV :) !
Are you planning on regearing the axles at all for the Eco Diesel in the future or is the tire size small enough that it doesn't matter?
The EcoDiesel has so much torque it doesn't matter. Plenty of people run 37s without regearing it no problem. I'll never go tires that large, so I'll be fine.
Keep in mind, when you torque the lower or upper control arms, the suspension has to be loaded, otherwise the bushings will bind up under flex or get damaged.
Thanks, I did put it down on the ground before torquing everything to spec and marking the bolts with a paint pen
I'm 90% sure I'm getting this same suspension for my Gladiator, since I'm installing the GFC wedge camper to facilitate longer journeys. I still have the factory Rubicon suspension. Did you omit the control arm geometry correction brackets? They're my single hesitation on the kit. I'm concerned with hitting them on rocks or bending them since I still do moderate offroad trails (not true crawling, but things that absolutely flex the truck).
I did install them, but neglected to film it because I was exhausted! (sorry).
I had them for all of Africa, and talking to AEV they've only ever had like 2 sets fail or have problems. They're extremely tough, and I think they're 100% worthwhile.
@TheRoadChoseMe Thank you for the response; it's reassuring. And thanks for the build videos like this - they're engaging and give us a continued understanding of your process and reasoning.
Curious to see how you like the external reservoir shocks. IMHO, a significant vulnerability with no benefit to anyone but desert racers; but I’m eager to hear your experience.
I've always felt the same way, so this is about learning first hand. I will report back when there are some serious hard miles on them!
As a desert racer (Sahara and Baja) and an international overlander, I think I can add some experience. The main benefit to both racers and overlanders is reducing shock fade due to corrugations and the ability to tune the shock to your needs. Are the reservoirs vulnerable? Not really. You would have to really, really try to hurt the reservoirs and hoses. The extra volume of fluid significantly helps the shock to keep working in the worst conditions. Remote reservoir shocks are generally rebuildable and not throwaway items. More importantly, they can usually be tuned for your specific compression and rebound needs to make your ride as good as possible. But, they are expensive. Are they *necessary*? No. But worth it if you can afford them. Alternative? Yes, Koni Raid or Heavy Track shocks. The Koni shocks are larger than regular shocks to have more fluid volume and are 4-position tunable. They are rebuildable as well. And while not cheap, they are a fraction of the price of good quality remote reservoir shocks. I firmly believe in the motto of "buy once, cry once". I think the Koni's are the best performance and value for the money available. That's my tuppence worth, anyway!
Can you tell me more about those wheels please? Who makes them? I ran the same set up on Toyotas but can't find wheels like that for my JKUR
Mopar steel 18" wheels from a Grand Cherokee.
You have to be careful how wide the tires are, anything more than 285 you'll need spacers (even then it's mighty, mighty close).
Dan, I put 35s on a 2 door JK i had and i did find the brakes seemed softer after that given the extra weight and rotational inertia. Did you upgrade your brakes as well or stay stock?
The brakes on this JL Diesel are stock, but they are MUCH better than my my JK.
Hey mate, did you torque your bushes with the vehicle resting on the tyres, full weight on everything or still jacked up? If you do them up while the suspension is hanging at full droop you will quickly destroy your bushes as they are locked in an abnormal arch and now under tension.
Thanks, I did put it down on the ground before torquing everything.
Interested to see you not fit rear airbags. Is there a reason for that?
Agree that height is more important than width.
Our Defender has Hankook Dynapro AT 235/85/16LTs, which are fine.
I feel like airbags are just more complexity and another thing to spend money on, maintain and that could fail.
Less is more. If I don't need them, I don't want them.
I'm a 235/85/16 ST/Max on Tacoma. yes that is a fine size
What wheels did you decide on? I don’t think you mentioned the brand. I’ve got alloys but want to go with tall and skinny tires.
These are again Mopar steel wheels, they're actually from a Commander.
The wheel and tire combo looks great.
For the weight/handling evaluation, the final build out and load is of course the best. However, in the short term is it worth mocking up the load using sandbags or similar?
I could, but I'm not really driving it anywhere "important" or doing hard off road miles until it's done, so it doesn't really matter much.
I’m curious why you didn’t install the AEV front bumper?
I did a few episodes back - th-cam.com/video/4Pab8RFU-z4/w-d-xo.html
The larger 18" wheels will allow for larger brakes/rotors, etc if the beast ends up needing an uncomfortable amount of foot pressure to stop her.
That is an interesting observation that I honestly hadn't thought of. Great point!
I'd consider upgrading the control arms, at least the lowers that might get bashed around.
I've never needed to on any of my vehicles or expeditions in the past.
What is the advantage? I'm not rock crawling.
@@TheRoadChoseMe The strength of a tube vs. stamped metal. I've seen plenty of bent control arms. It was more of a rock crawling environment, but in lightly loaded vehicles. You can also get adjustable control arms which allow you to trade off castor for driveshaft u-joint angle.
I did 54,000 miles around Africa on the worst roads in the world with a heavily loaded Wrangler without a control arm problem.
I did 36,000 miles around Australia on the toughest tracks and desert crossings in the heavily loaded Gladiator without a control arm problem.
I suspect the problems come with monster tires, lots of right foot and smashing into large rocks - none of which I have any interest in.
I have AEV's Geo correction brackets up front, so the angles are all correct.
Just curious if the 18” wheels affect your speedometer?
Yes, the tires have a different circumference than stock, so I programmed the new size into the computer. It's spot at on 60mph now according to GPS
Thank you!
Are there any concerns about the axle hubs getting dirt/mud/ice etc. in them without caps on them, making them hard to work on? For example if you break an axle shaft or need to replace a wheel bearing?
I was wondering about that too, and I'll be honest with you, I'm not an expert.
My axle hubs were exposed for all of Africa, and I opened up the fronts in South Africa to do the front u-joints and had no problem.
I have not had them open since then
@@TheRoadChoseMe Just a tiny spritz of Fluid Film every now and then will keep them looking and working great.
Dan, how about “The White Rhino” as a name for the new Jeep?
ohhh, that is BY FAR the best I've heard so far, and is now the name until a better one comes along.
Thanks!
I remember you saying that for worldwide overlanding you'd never choose 35s over 33s.
Could you explain, what did change your mind?
I am a bit lost. In my mind I was for 33s after what you said before and now this.
To be honest I still think 33s make more sense, and what I've done here isn't because I think they're better.
It's just me trying something new so I can learn first hand, and have better experience. If I'm going to go around saying 33s are better than 35s, I think it would mean more if I'd actually had both so I can have that first hand comparison.
I think it's likely I'll get rid of these at some point and go back to my usual 33, maybe even before I stuff it in a container.
my first thought was "how much does that wheel weigh?"...I'd need a hoist to get the spare on the roof@@TheRoadChoseMe
It is a bit heavy, I talked about it and showed us putting it up there a couple of episodes back
Have you considered re-gearing to adjust for the larger tires and restore the stock torque?
I've got the diesel with 420ft lbs of torque, so a regar is just not needed.
Plenty of people run 37X12.5 with this engine and gearing and it's perfectly fine.
I will never run tires big enough to need a regear, I'd rather spend that money on gas in the tank for adventures
Do you know how those compare to the Geolandar GO15?
Remote resovoir shocks seem to be a "cool" choice, not what is required for overlanding.
Didn't Dan do a video where he wasn't keen on them?
@bradj9870 Honestly I agree, and as I said I'm doing this to learn first hand if they really are justified.
You'll know by whatever I do on my next build. (and I'll do a review video after some hard travel miles on these)
What's the benefit of those shocks?
How do you think the new box will handle being bashed around? Like from branches etc.?
It will get cosmetically scratched and scuffed, but I think it will take a lot of abuse before it actually gets damaged. That said I'm not eager to drive it on really, really overgrown or tight tracks with lots of low branches and stuff.
Maybe I better go places where there aren't many trees....
😉
It's just a shame it's hard to get narrow tyres in bigger sizes on the smaller rims
I agree, and I'm talking to a certain tire company about making more tall and skinny tires!
It seems daft to change shocks and springs before the camper is fully built… makes no sense
You're right that things are not necessarily happening in the "best" order.
Some of this was dictated by shipping delays, some by workshop availability and some by the need to get it rolling and on display at a few overland shows this summer.
I'm really hoping I can stick with things springs forever, but if it winds up heavier than I want I'll go with the high capacity ones.
The shocks and everything else will stay the same regardless.
I believe that you should have just used your old JK and just went with a 5.3 ls and 480 conversion . Just not trusting the new FCA stuff for long term .
Back when I did Africa the JK was the "new FCA stuff" that nobody trusted. Many people told me the electronics would fail and I'd be stranded....
Did FCA design the 07 and newer JK . pretty sure it was owned by a private equity firm till 2014 . FCA put their stamp on the 2018 and up re design .
Diesel engin?
yep, 3.0 turbo diesel
I'm afraid that you're going the route of so many others. Once people get a good following it's time to cash in! Overlanding shows, photo shoots, magazine articles and on and on. It's no longer about the adventure, it's the recognition and profits.
I hope it's not going to happen to you.
I'm working very hard to make the adventure happen, I promise.