Great job. If you go through Crutchfield, you can get the casing plus the connector and not have to use soldering or a dremel, and they're usually free with speaker purchase.
As a 2014 Mazda 3 hatchback owner I can tell you that the first upgrade anyone will wanna do is get a nice aftermarket head unit like an Alpine ILX-F259. That way you dont have to deal with any line output converters that add noise and strain to your system. After that just get yourself a nice 4-6 channel amp and ge tyour 2 or 3 ways amped up. Also get a sub amp that can go about 800 watts... thats plenty for the mazda 3. with that I'd recommend something like a jl 12w6v3. as far as the speaker replacements go that's a subjective opionion but I think that Focal sounds realllllly good. Last but not least if you are a hardcore audiophile you will probably wanna get a DSP like a Helix
Are there any HUs that use the touchscreen? If not, I can't possibly see wanting to replace it. That's part of the bargain in getting a prominent screen, imo.
...Several years after this post... those OEM door speakers do have a tweeter of shorts. Those center cones are are called "wheezers" from back in-day before you were born and were meant to reproduce high frequencies. Now of course they don't go nearly as high as a traditional teeter, but they sufficed back then and still are relevant in some applications and systems today.
Great video. I was struggling on how to take off the speaker grill cover on the dashboard of my 2016 CX-5. I ended up taking off the a pillar cover first then prying the grill cover from the side which had a slot for a screwdriver. It worked like a charm, cover just popped off easily. I dropped in a component tweeter in the factory location.
When I removed the stock tweeters, there is a small capisitor attached near the clip connection... the same connection that you cut off... so you have nothing filtering out the lower frequency... or did you reuse it?
Nice video - I just had my door speakers professionally replaced but would prefer to do the tweeters myself. What kind of drimmel head did you use to get the old one off? Also, eight years on - how is this holding up?
Solid tutorial, but I can't help but wonder why you didn't just show the removal of the interior door panel instead of giving verbal instructions lol. I have been tinkering a lot with my 2018 M3 w/ the factory Bose system. Because of how the factory amp/crossover is set up, I ended up installing 6 3/4" shallow dvc kicker subs in the doors, powered by their own amp, and having the factory amp take care of rest, which I upgraded with Infinity speakers. I also have a powered 8" Alpine sub mounted where the rear fold-down arm rest would normally be. It turned out pretty well overall, but doors don't make good sub enclosures, so I'm going to replace the factory amp with a DSP amp, along with components instead of the mini subs. I just gotta wait for the weather to warm up again...
Update: I need to install the crossovers:. but I'm only going to wire them for the tweeters (high pass filter only). The highs needs to be filtered and mellowed out a bit (right now they sound a bit "harsh" in some higher pitched songs). Crossover should help out a lot. I will more than likely come out with a part 2 video. Subscribe to have it pop up in your feed. I will also do an audio test as well... something I should have done in this video.
Much easier than that. www.jlaudio.com/c2-350x-car-audio-speakers-c2-coaxial-systems-99611 drops right in place and you use the original screw locations. I did clip off the two bars over the tweeter to avoid clearance issues and cut down the plastic perimeter of the JL to fit into the Mazda grill. If you had the Jl in hand it would be clearer. Then some utility knife work on a plastic piece that runs through the speaker location. The result is you have four mid-woofers and four tweeters instead of two m/w's and four tweeters which I think has to be a more balanced sound plus moves the soundstage to be more in front of you. This on a 2016 CX-5 Touring non Bose. Just my experience, not a recommendation.
you do know that if you install and after market amplifier you can make those sound 3 times better and louder, ill give you a 10 on the install very professional installation but with an amp it would make it sound better
For sure, i was in to sounds systems a few years back but the 1st baby cane thennthe seconds and it all went away , im planing on molding a samsung tab on my dash with an audison bit one or bit 10 , 6 ch amp running my components a channel per speaker including the tweaters so i can run them active and a separate mono amp for the bass , im thinking all jl audio amps and a 12 inch w6 or a 10 w7, all calibrated with an rta hopefully
My stock speaker sometimes doesn't work(only tweeter works) when I start the car. When I just use the batter without starting the car, it works fine. I have to turn off the car get out and then get back into the car and restart the car to make the speakers get power. Can you tell my why that happens from time to time?
Very helpful video. Do you have any tips for the rear speakers? I bought a set of 5 1/4" Pioneer speakers for the back doors, but it looks like they're too small to go in. What size speakers did you get for the rear?
BTCKYLE Crutchfield says the C2-650x doesn't fit the rear door due to mointing height. I want this same setup on my 2016 Mazda 3 hatchback. Just ordered the speakers. Did you run into issues with the rear door installation?
Do you have the Bose installation in your car? I just wonder if that would make a difference to which upgrades you can do and speakers to use in terms of impedance etc. I am considering a similar upgrade myself but have Bose system
From what I have read in forums .. you need to replace every speaker and get amps if you want to do this. You would be essentially gutting the system up to but not including the head unit. Good luck. The Grand Touring has Bose 9 speaker. Sport has 6 speaker.
I need help figuring out what the middle dash speaker is? the one behind the dash screen?i’ve googled it but have had no luck. when i bought my car all the speakers were blown and sound terrible (the rest of the car is in amazing condition).
A really good job! I have a question, what about the rear pillar speaker? Does 3.5 inch tweeter fit on them? It seems that mine are not properly working. Thank you
I upgraded the rear set as well. It is the exact same process as the front speakers. The only difference is that the rear speakers have the tweeter and woofer both as one package (coaxial)
Hey guys I have a problem. I bought 6.5" JBL's for the front doors on my 2017 Mazda6 Grand Touring because Amazon and Crutchfield both said I needed 6.5' speakers. Now I have my door panels off and have just realized my car has 9" Bose speakers which are huge. I don't see a way to make it work, but I also can't find any 9" speakers online so I am not convinced they exist. Any advice?
Yeah the GT has the Bose system.. go here: www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/bose-factory-front-speakers.108562/#post-1436642 you will need to custom mount your speakers. I never buy a car with Blose, it makes it such a pain the butt to upgrade the sound system.
the stock setup seems decent to my ears. how much improvement do you notice? I want to upgrade too but if the improvement is only marginal I dont want to spend the money or the time.
Hey Alex. The improvement is beyond noticeable (if you get my drift) - You can hear a broader range in output frequency. The bass is much cleaner, and the highs are insanely crisp. Subscribe for an audio test. I will be coming out with one very soon. I just got my editing software back.
J Zerballs unfortunately, you will need to use the new connectors that come with the JL audio kit. not terribly hard to do - just another 10 minutes of extra work.
Yes Styrofoam would take out some of the frequencies but it will also reveal others . I still need a 4 inch gap to let some of the subs lows out so one back seat open four inches . Drummers put pillows in drums so it works the same way as your styrofoam, it works better with higher density foam so I don't know about rigid styrofoam and acustical properties.
@@Ghost_moto_WPN what? I would use the crossover that came with the speakers... thats what I plan on doing. the crossover is probably in-line with the stock tweeter and gets tossed when you upgrade. I havent dont my front speakers yet. I got some MB Quarts.
@@downtownlife P3NZ01L didn't ask why not use the crossover that came with the speakers, he just askes "what about the crossover" I took that as "don't you have to have to use the new speakers crossovers " so, no you don't have to use the one that came with them. Is it better to use the one's that came with your speakers - absolutely! He also only removed the tweater, so where ever the factory crossover is doesnt mater. It didnt get removed when he changed the speakers or the tweeter. This would only matter if you wanted to use the new speakers supplied croasovers and you would run new wiring anyway and bypass it.
@@Ghost_moto_WPN I am confused, he went with aftermarket speakers but didnt install the crossover that came with those speakers.. so he is just using the stock speaker wire and is assuming that whatever crossover setting is either at the headunit will be good enough for the speakers - high and low? Should I do that too? I guess the highs going to tweeters are probably in general all cut out the low frequencies on those stock speakers wires, somewhere. I dont consider the +/- on the treble setting on the headunit a real crossover. Not trolling!
@@downtownlife It depends how much effort you want to put in vs the best result you can get. Just changing the speaker and the Twitter is a very decent upgrade, but if you're after the best set up by all means definitely would use the crossover supplied with the speakers. However this would involve far more effort of taking dash panels off the dash to run wires under it through to the head unit and bypassing the factory fitted crossover. The factory fitted crossover could be something as simple as it in line capacitor. Crossovers are mechanical restriction on frequencies based on circuitry, not to be confused with the EQ in the head unit, which is digital correction of those frequencies. If you have the ability and confidence to start looking for wires under the dash to fit your crossover supplied with the upgraded speakers I definitely recommend it, but if you can't, just changing the speakers and tweeters is still a decent upgrade but to get the best results you'd want to amplify them anyway with their included crossovers.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Your tip with the string for the door fasteners was a big help. I didn't break one clip doing it that way. Thanks!
you shoul make a video of how to install a subwoofer and amp to the factory radio
Miguel Tapia thats what am looking for. Want to put a high quality sound system but am afraid of how they will disassemble all those things
Great job. If you go through Crutchfield, you can get the casing plus the connector and not have to use soldering or a dremel, and they're usually free with speaker purchase.
Did you go through with the replacement yourself using Crutchfield's casing? How'd it go?
Hey what’s the exact product link? I want to not have to use a soldier or anything
As a 2014 Mazda 3 hatchback owner I can tell you that the first upgrade anyone will wanna do is get a nice aftermarket head unit like an Alpine ILX-F259. That way you dont have to deal with any line output converters that add noise and strain to your system. After that just get yourself a nice 4-6 channel amp and ge tyour 2 or 3 ways amped up. Also get a sub amp that can go about 800 watts... thats plenty for the mazda 3. with that I'd recommend something like a jl 12w6v3. as far as the speaker replacements go that's a subjective opionion but I think that Focal sounds realllllly good. Last but not least if you are a hardcore audiophile you will probably wanna get a DSP like a Helix
Are there any HUs that use the touchscreen? If not, I can't possibly see wanting to replace it. That's part of the bargain in getting a prominent screen, imo.
@@TheRayDog Yes. I am currently running a Stinger Elev8 and it's fantastic in my 2014 Mazda 3.
@@VincentsVideoVisions I don't understand then. How is that integrating into the dash given the stock up top screen?
Звуковая система Mazda смешанная. рекламировались с интересными габаритами... подумываю купить аудисон прима ап ф8.9 бит. чего-чего
Mazda's sound system is mixed. they advertised with interesting dimensions... I'm thinking of buying an audison prima ap f8.9 bit. say what
...Several years after this post... those OEM door speakers do have a tweeter of shorts. Those center cones are are called "wheezers" from back in-day before you were born and were meant to reproduce high frequencies. Now of course they don't go nearly as high as a traditional teeter, but they sufficed back then and still are relevant in some applications and systems today.
Great video. I was struggling on how to take off the speaker grill cover on the dashboard of my 2016 CX-5. I ended up taking off the a pillar cover first then prying the grill cover from the side which had a slot for a screwdriver. It worked like a charm, cover just popped off easily. I dropped in a component tweeter in the factory location.
When I removed the stock tweeters, there is a small capisitor attached near the clip connection... the same connection that you cut off... so you have nothing filtering out the lower frequency... or did you reuse it?
... it's in the crossover unit (small box installed elsewhere) for the separates he used.
Nice video - I just had my door speakers professionally replaced but would prefer to do the tweeters myself. What kind of drimmel head did you use to get the old one off? Also, eight years on - how is this holding up?
Thanks for the video it saved me $600.
Solid tutorial, but I can't help but wonder why you didn't just show the removal of the interior door panel instead of giving verbal instructions lol. I have been tinkering a lot with my 2018 M3 w/ the factory Bose system. Because of how the factory amp/crossover is set up, I ended up installing 6 3/4" shallow dvc kicker subs in the doors, powered by their own amp, and having the factory amp take care of rest, which I upgraded with Infinity speakers. I also have a powered 8" Alpine sub mounted where the rear fold-down arm rest would normally be. It turned out pretty well overall, but doors don't make good sub enclosures, so I'm going to replace the factory amp with a DSP amp, along with components instead of the mini subs. I just gotta wait for the weather to warm up again...
don't have mazda, but after so many videos about BTC I have watched, this really helps to cool down the brain :D
Dang this escalated quickly. Good work
+Stefan Patterson haha thanks. System sounds so good. I cringe when I sit in other people's cars now haha.
How did you wire the crossovers?
Hi, is there any way you could show us how you connected your tweeter?
How did you connect the tweeter after taking off the stock tweeter where you connect the wires
I think he messed up..
there's nothing wrong with the stock speakers. they're matched well to the sound system. also, have you never heard of after market spacers?
Update: I need to install the crossovers:. but I'm only going to wire them for the tweeters (high pass filter only). The highs needs to be filtered and mellowed out a bit (right now they sound a bit "harsh" in some higher pitched songs). Crossover should help out a lot. I will more than likely come out with a part 2 video. Subscribe to have it pop up in your feed. I will also do an audio test as well... something I should have done in this video.
BTCKYLE - Have you posted Part 2 showing how you wired the crossovers?
Why didn't you put crossovers on woofers? Does it not make any difference?
Waiting for the damn video
thanks, you had some good angles, how does it sound in comparison to the old ones? Also, did you change out your back door speakers as well?
do you have to have to install new tweeters? what happens if i just install the new speakers
Mine doesn’t have stock tweets, any install guide for wiring an whatnot?
Hello.
I got the Bose in my Mazda 3, is there any idea in upgrading those speakers?
Could you post up the links to the speakers you put in?
the JL Audio 3.5 coaxial fits in the dash with a little alteration to a crossing piece of plastic
Hey, thanks for the comment. So you are saying you can physically remove the tweeter off the woofer and wire it to original tweeters?
Much easier than that. www.jlaudio.com/c2-350x-car-audio-speakers-c2-coaxial-systems-99611 drops right in place and you use the original screw locations. I did clip off the two bars over the tweeter to avoid clearance issues and cut down the plastic perimeter of the JL to fit into the Mazda grill. If you had the Jl in hand it would be clearer. Then some utility knife work on a plastic piece that runs through the speaker location. The result is you have four mid-woofers and four tweeters instead of two m/w's and four tweeters which I think has to be a more balanced sound plus moves the soundstage to be more in front of you. This on a 2016 CX-5 Touring non Bose. Just my experience, not a recommendation.
The piece inn your hand at 12:50 is totally replaced by the new coaxial.
@@wagzel I dont get it, why would you recommend a speaker install on a different model car... lol. Are the dashboards essentially the same?
Hello brother do you install amplifier for the speakers or put it directly to the stereo without amplifier?
Jig Saw works a lot better and faster if not swapping out for ABS or MDF spacers. Otherwise looks great for the budget DIYer.
you do know that if you install and after market amplifier you can make those sound 3 times better and louder, ill give you a 10 on the install very professional installation but with an amp it would make it sound better
Thanks Mario, I'm thinking about putting one in this summer. If I do, I'm 1000% going to have an install video. Subscribe.
For sure, i was in to sounds systems a few years back but the 1st baby cane thennthe seconds and it all went away , im planing on molding a samsung tab on my dash with an audison bit one or bit 10 , 6 ch amp running my components a channel per speaker including the tweaters so i can run them active and a separate mono amp for the bass , im thinking all jl audio amps and a 12 inch w6 or a 10 w7, all calibrated with an rta hopefully
Any tip to know which lead is positive and which one is negative from the car to the speaker?
My stock speaker sometimes doesn't work(only tweeter works) when I start the car. When I just use the batter without starting the car, it works fine. I have to turn off the car get out and then get back into the car and restart the car to make the speakers get power. Can you tell my why that happens from time to time?
It's great that Joe Pera has a side job.
Hey, did you install the cross over that came w/ the speakers?
Very helpful video. Do you have any tips for the rear speakers? I bought a set of 5 1/4" Pioneer speakers for the back doors, but it looks like they're too small to go in. What size speakers did you get for the rear?
The same size as the front speakers. 6.5" Actually.
Damn, well that explains a lot. Thanks man
Let me know if you have any other questions!
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NWEJWA/ref=pd_sim_107_2?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NWEJWA&pd_rd_r=TVEDTR6KVCR05WSJ8GJA&pd_rd_w=PUE4E&pd_rd_wg=Hsnob&psc=1&refRID=TVEDTR6KVCR05WSJ8GJA
BTCKYLE Crutchfield says the C2-650x doesn't fit the rear door due to mointing height. I want this same setup on my 2016 Mazda 3 hatchback. Just ordered the speakers. Did you run into issues with the rear door installation?
Do you have the Bose installation in your car? I just wonder if that would make a difference to which upgrades you can do and speakers to use in terms of impedance etc. I am considering a similar upgrade myself but have Bose system
From what I have read in forums .. you need to replace every speaker and get amps if you want to do this. You would be essentially gutting the system up to but not including the head unit. Good luck. The Grand Touring has Bose 9 speaker. Sport has 6 speaker.
String idea = brilliant!
I need help figuring out what the middle dash speaker is? the one behind the dash screen?i’ve googled it but have had no luck. when i bought my car all the speakers were blown and sound terrible (the rest of the car is in amazing condition).
I don't believe that's a speaker. It could be a mic for voice input or other communication
Awesome video.. Look forward to your crossover installation.. Rear door speaker required to do the same housing mod to fit 6.5" speaker too?
YY Hu Correct, same exact mod. nothing different. Same sized speaker as well. Yeah, ill be getting that video up soon! subscribe!
BTCKYLE possible to give a quick guide on how should I hook up the crossover?
What's the size of the tweeters?
A really good job!
I have a question, what about the rear pillar speaker?
Does 3.5 inch tweeter fit on them?
It seems that mine are not properly working.
Thank you
Rear pillar? Did you find out your solution yet?
@@BTCKYLE not yet Sir, but I'm going to check what (and if) fits !
Great video, all around dude. Special bonus was the tool breakdown at 10:45! lol
pls say diameter for new speaker and deep size
did you only upgrade the fronts speakers only i would like to see the rear as well.
I upgraded the rear set as well. It is the exact same process as the front speakers. The only difference is that the rear speakers have the tweeter and woofer both as one package (coaxial)
Hey guys I have a problem. I bought 6.5" JBL's for the front doors on my 2017 Mazda6 Grand Touring because Amazon and Crutchfield both said I needed 6.5' speakers. Now I have my door panels off and have just realized my car has 9" Bose speakers which are huge. I don't see a way to make it work, but I also can't find any 9" speakers online so I am not convinced they exist. Any advice?
Yeah the GT has the Bose system.. go here: www.mazda3revolution.com/threads/bose-factory-front-speakers.108562/#post-1436642 you will need to custom mount your speakers. I never buy a car with Blose, it makes it such a pain the butt to upgrade the sound system.
Is the middle one in the dashboard a tweeter too?
A screwdriver, hacksaw blade and a few 1 inch screws, easy peasy
the stock setup seems decent to my ears. how much improvement do you notice? I want to upgrade too but if the improvement is only marginal I dont want to spend the money or the time.
Hey Alex. The improvement is beyond noticeable (if you get my drift) - You can hear a broader range in output frequency. The bass is much cleaner, and the highs are insanely crisp. Subscribe for an audio test. I will be coming out with one very soon. I just got my editing software back.
What’s the brand of stock audio system on Mazda 3 2017 model?
Its OEM. There no way to tell who manufactured it I think.
There are two versions. The standard one I couldn't tell you, but the upgraded system is made by Bose.
Great tutorial, very easy to follow!
Thanks for the feedback! Subscribe for more techy videos
are the rear speakers just a standard upgrade ? meaning only need to change the dashboard right ?
Yeah, just swapped them out
Could you just unplug the tweeters and install a coaxial speakers in the door?
Yeah, but don't do that. Your vocals will sound like they are coming from underneath you. It will sound horrible. Friend made that mistake once.
have you been able to add an amplifier with the existing head unit??
+ian nick gonna do that this summer.
BTCKYLE did you managed to add the amp and sub??
Sad how most these YT projects never get follow ups
Were you able to use the factory connectors for the tweeters?
J Zerballs unfortunately, you will need to use the new connectors that come with the JL audio kit. not terribly hard to do - just another 10 minutes of extra work.
soo.... i just found out the lowest trim model for the 2014 does not have a component system, there are no tweeters on it
Good to know! Thanks for sharing
Would you consider using styrofoam baffle boxes for the mids?
Yes Styrofoam would take out some of the frequencies but it will also reveal others . I still need a 4 inch gap to let some of the subs lows out so one back seat open four inches . Drummers put pillows in drums so it works the same way as your styrofoam, it works better with higher density foam so I don't know about rigid styrofoam and acustical properties.
Sigue otro video??
what about the crossover?
You don’t need the one that came with the speakers, the car already has it for the factory splits.
@@Ghost_moto_WPN what? I would use the crossover that came with the speakers... thats what I plan on doing. the crossover is probably in-line with the stock tweeter and gets tossed when you upgrade. I havent dont my front speakers yet. I got some MB Quarts.
@@downtownlife P3NZ01L didn't ask why not use the crossover that came with the speakers, he just askes "what about the crossover" I took that as "don't you have to have to use the new speakers crossovers " so, no you don't have to use the one that came with them.
Is it better to use the one's that came with your speakers - absolutely!
He also only removed the tweater, so where ever the factory crossover is doesnt mater. It didnt get removed when he changed the speakers or the tweeter. This would only matter if you wanted to use the new speakers supplied croasovers and you would run new wiring anyway and bypass it.
@@Ghost_moto_WPN I am confused, he went with aftermarket speakers but didnt install the crossover that came with those speakers.. so he is just using the stock speaker wire and is assuming that whatever crossover setting is either at the headunit will be good enough for the speakers - high and low? Should I do that too?
I guess the highs going to tweeters are probably in general all cut out the low frequencies on those stock speakers wires, somewhere. I dont consider the +/- on the treble setting on the headunit a real crossover. Not trolling!
@@downtownlife It depends how much effort you want to put in vs the best result you can get.
Just changing the speaker and the Twitter is a very decent upgrade, but if you're after the best set up by all means definitely would use the crossover supplied with the speakers. However this would involve far more effort of taking dash panels off the dash to run wires under it through to the head unit and bypassing the factory fitted crossover. The factory fitted crossover could be something as simple as it in line capacitor. Crossovers are mechanical restriction on frequencies based on circuitry, not to be confused with the EQ in the head unit, which is digital correction of those frequencies.
If you have the ability and confidence to start looking for wires under the dash to fit your crossover supplied with the upgraded speakers I definitely recommend it, but if you can't, just changing the speakers and tweeters is still a decent upgrade but to get the best results you'd want to amplify them anyway with their included crossovers.
What’s up bro, do you happen to know the speaker size?
6.5 inch
The tweeters?
Did your car have the Bose sound?
It did not, thanks for asking. This is the non-bose system.
Thanks for the reply! I watched the whole video anyways, it's a really insightful tutorial, plus the tips that you give are amazingly helpful.
+Gonzalo Alvarez Thanks man! I will have a proper audio test coming soon. subscribe so you dont miss it.
Do u have subs connected to these c2? Im thinking about which ones i wanna buy
No, not currently. that will br a project in the future.
Thanks
Nice!
part 2, go
Hack job. Just make proper spacers from MDF.
How is this a hack job? Please elaborate
this is better than mdf as mdf gets wet and destroyed. check out the lengths CAF (youtube) goes to to make plastic rings.
@@tk421tt there is zero reason it would get wet and if you do it right you seal the mdf anyway. a million pro installers can't be wrong
FULL SOUND TEST: th-cam.com/video/lC7GaDlNoeo/w-d-xo.html
What about the rear speakers?
What about them exactly?