It looks very nice, but it's not a proper yanagiba shape after the restoration. The shinogi line should be parallel to the cutting edge and urasuki concave.
It could have been a bit longer video. The guys who do restorations seem to not be so concerned about sharpness. My guess is he used an 800 grit stone there, and left it at that, then polished. Very good for an 800 grit, but really sharpening it and stropping would have gotten it noticeably sharper. The handle is really impressive, one of the nicest I've seen.
@@junior90210 Forget the idiots, what you wrote is 100% correct. This sharpener(?) ended this knife's life the moment he put the ura on a belt grinder. Not only he took out the ura suki but probably overheated the knife too. On top of that, he mirror polished both the kireha and the flattened ura. Notice on his first slice the fish is moving with the knife because it's stuck on it? The purpose of Yanagi is to slice and separate the fish as clean as possible, but this knife is going to drag through it because of full contact mirror polished back and front. Sashimi cut with this knife will have rough surface, the soy sauce will soak into it not stay on its top. Having said all that the handle he made is very nice, I just hope he will get the opportunity to learn the proper way to sharpen Japanese single bevel knives.
I was thinking that you could use your blade grinding clamp (the one used at 3:07-3:30) to grind the angles of the handle. It would help to keep the angle consistent and even from side to side also.
I bet the guy who abandoned that knife is crying over it now! Added: would be nice to know something about the steel. With the buffing and polish, it looks stainless, but I'm sure it's not.
Most likely a carbon steel, either blue or white paper steels (Aogami or Shirogami). Looked unmarked, so I would assume white paper steel since it is more common for sushi knives and blue steel is sometimes stamped on the flat side to indicate the "superior" quality steel. White steel is used normally because it is generally a sharper edge, but more delicate than blue paper steel. Blue paper has better edge retention overall, but generally with slightly reduced sharpness. This does not apply as much to "super" steels, as they generally have superior quality all around but are much more expensive.
@@brandonkaye5227 ---- Thank You! Very informative! I have wondered about the difference between white and blue steels for some time. With my level of sharpening skill, either would come out about the same, haha. I'm still figuring out whetstones, like the Arashiyama 6K (love it), and how to use them (if you go from grit to grit properly it doesn't take long at all). And I **used to** chip stainless HRC63 fairly regularly (belt sander to repair, I won't waste whetstones on chips, but the Suehiro Debado 180 is a fantastic stone to get the sanding belt burr down). Some day, maybe I'll try a white or blue with a nice soft cutting board.
@@davesmith5656 Get either a hi-soft, rubber, or hinoki cypress cutting board when you do. Saves your knives, even if they are a bit more expensive. Also, look into diamond plate like the Atoma series for removing chips. They are steel so they stay level, you can replace the abrasive side when it is spent, and you can use them not only to remove chips, but to flatten your other whetstones.
@@brandonkaye5227 ----- Definitely yes on the slightly more expensive cutting boards, thank you. They save a LOT of time and money if anyone cares for their knives. I do have an Atoma, and used it for about two or three hours total reshaping the edge on a 7" Wusthoff santoku for a friend. Several millimeters worth at heel and tip (because a honing rod - not a butcher's steel - had been used frequently, so the center was concave). Then I took in a full set from another friend (practicing my sharpening), 5 steak knives, two santokus, chef's knife, carving knife, paring, scissors. ALL with horrendous chipping. I flipped a hand-held wood sander 3x18 inch belt upside down, 400 grit, and saved myself h-o-u-r-s of labor. It took 1,000 microns off in just a few minutes, and it's much easier to hold the bevel angle since your hands aren't moving up and down. Obviously, don't let the knife edge heat up. Belt direction away from you, edge away from you. Couldn't do anything much with the scissors but lightly smooth the flat edge of the serrations. They cut paper easily, so I left them alone like that. WARN people if you sharpen their old knives for them. (I have no idea who came up with the idea of putting serrations on a knife. You can't sharpen them (nothing small enough) and a brand new Henckels steak knife is a small saw through a simple cooked steak, back and forth, back and forth, raspy, tearing. A sharp knife goes through the same steak in one easy draw. Marketing wizardry I guess.)
Nice, love the result!
Love your handles. Working on my first restoration atm.
Very nice restoration work.
Beautiful restoration mister well done
Amazing restoration.
No magic here. Only a trained and "honed" craftsmanship, plus patience, dedication and a lot of hard work. Thank you for sharing!
Thank you very much!
Great job, handle is fantastic
nice bro
Excellent work..
Você é muito bom restaurador 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👌🏽
It looks very nice, but it's not a proper yanagiba shape after the restoration. The shinogi line should be parallel to the cutting edge and urasuki concave.
I can hear your mom calling you from upstairs, dinners ready.
It could have been a bit longer video. The guys who do restorations seem to not be so concerned about sharpness. My guess is he used an 800 grit stone there, and left it at that, then polished. Very good for an 800 grit, but really sharpening it and stropping would have gotten it noticeably sharper. The handle is really impressive, one of the nicest I've seen.
@@jakefromstatefarm9721 insult is your only answer to a fact-bsed critique?
@@junior90210 Forget the idiots, what you wrote is 100% correct. This sharpener(?) ended this knife's life the moment he put the ura on a belt grinder. Not only he took out the ura suki but probably overheated the knife too. On top of that, he mirror polished both the kireha and the flattened ura. Notice on his first slice the fish is moving with the knife because it's stuck on it? The purpose of Yanagi is to slice and separate the fish as clean as possible, but this knife is going to drag through it because of full contact mirror polished back and front. Sashimi cut with this knife will have rough surface, the soy sauce will soak into it not stay on its top. Having said all that the handle he made is very nice, I just hope he will get the opportunity to learn the proper way to sharpen Japanese single bevel knives.
Such a beautiful restoration. Piece of Art!
Nicely done ! 😀
Very nicely done.
Látom jó éles!👍🕊
Nice work...
Awesome video and restoration. Loved it.
Вот это настоящая реставрация!
Love the knife restorations mate. Keep them coming excellent content.
I was thinking that you could use your blade grinding clamp (the one used at 3:07-3:30) to grind the angles of the handle. It would help to keep the angle consistent and even from side to side also.
I want it !!! But enjoy it !!
Just wow
wonderful~~
Great restoration. very nice work. Can you let me know what sanding sticks you're using? Thanks
Those are just worn out diamond sharpening plate, I use the flat surface with double adhesive tape to hold the sanding paper in place.
@@omelcraft very cool, thanks a lot
@@myrr8392 You're welcome
Impressive!
Very nice 👏👏👏
Beautiful restoration!
But that tuna looks a bit past it’s prime… 😵💫
I love scrapping but this blade is not tor that hehehe nice restoration.
How many houres did it take to restaurate the knife?
Sweet 👍🏻 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
Beauty Knife
Здравствуйте, а вы где работаете? В России? Или за границей?
Nice restoration, but if can add some heat treatment would be better. Blade that bend, and knock back, hardness not at it peak.
👍🏼❤️👍🏼❤️👍🏼
I bet the guy who abandoned that knife is crying over it now! Added: would be nice to know something about the steel. With the buffing and polish, it looks stainless, but I'm sure it's not.
Most likely a carbon steel, either blue or white paper steels (Aogami or Shirogami). Looked unmarked, so I would assume white paper steel since it is more common for sushi knives and blue steel is sometimes stamped on the flat side to indicate the "superior" quality steel. White steel is used normally because it is generally a sharper edge, but more delicate than blue paper steel. Blue paper has better edge retention overall, but generally with slightly reduced sharpness. This does not apply as much to "super" steels, as they generally have superior quality all around but are much more expensive.
@@brandonkaye5227 ---- Thank You! Very informative! I have wondered about the difference between white and blue steels for some time. With my level of sharpening skill, either would come out about the same, haha. I'm still figuring out whetstones, like the Arashiyama 6K (love it), and how to use them (if you go from grit to grit properly it doesn't take long at all). And I **used to** chip stainless HRC63 fairly regularly (belt sander to repair, I won't waste whetstones on chips, but the Suehiro Debado 180 is a fantastic stone to get the sanding belt burr down). Some day, maybe I'll try a white or blue with a nice soft cutting board.
@@davesmith5656 Get either a hi-soft, rubber, or hinoki cypress cutting board when you do. Saves your knives, even if they are a bit more expensive. Also, look into diamond plate like the Atoma series for removing chips. They are steel so they stay level, you can replace the abrasive side when it is spent, and you can use them not only to remove chips, but to flatten your other whetstones.
@@brandonkaye5227 ----- Definitely yes on the slightly more expensive cutting boards, thank you. They save a LOT of time and money if anyone cares for their knives. I do have an Atoma, and used it for about two or three hours total reshaping the edge on a 7" Wusthoff santoku for a friend. Several millimeters worth at heel and tip (because a honing rod - not a butcher's steel - had been used frequently, so the center was concave). Then I took in a full set from another friend (practicing my sharpening), 5 steak knives, two santokus, chef's knife, carving knife, paring, scissors. ALL with horrendous chipping. I flipped a hand-held wood sander 3x18 inch belt upside down, 400 grit, and saved myself h-o-u-r-s of labor. It took 1,000 microns off in just a few minutes, and it's much easier to hold the bevel angle since your hands aren't moving up and down. Obviously, don't let the knife edge heat up. Belt direction away from you, edge away from you.
Couldn't do anything much with the scissors but lightly smooth the flat edge of the serrations. They cut paper easily, so I left them alone like that. WARN people if you sharpen their old knives for them. (I have no idea who came up with the idea of putting serrations on a knife. You can't sharpen them (nothing small enough) and a brand new Henckels steak knife is a small saw through a simple cooked steak, back and forth, back and forth, raspy, tearing. A sharp knife goes through the same steak in one easy draw. Marketing wizardry I guess.)
@@brandonkaye5227 ----- P.S. For a lark, watch "Katina Eats Kilos" on YT.
It.would.bee.an.honer.to.have.sushi.made.with.this.knife
Pinoy ka ?
bent like a banana...mine was too
это не переделка
İt is not restoration,making a new one😅
Хоть кто то без всяких непонятных замачиваний нормальную реставрацию сделали !
追及する点が日本人とは全く異なり、見かけだけのレストア。
食材を切るモノだから、日本人は切れ味を求める。たまに鏡面仕上げをしている人もいるけど、完璧に研いだ後で鏡面仕上げをしていて、あくまでも鏡面仕上げはオマケ。
この包丁は研ぎが甘いから、紙の切れ味もイマイチ。あくまでも見た目重視で機能は二の次という感じ。
間違いない。
たまたま日本刀の研師の動画を見た後だったので正にそう思いました。
紙の切れ味も悪いし、刺身に至っては全部切れてもいない。
この動画の主はそんなことも気付かないんでしょうね。