Hello I just lost compression on my br600, I didnt smell or see any white smoke but my flywheel spins pretty easy now, would a rebuild kit fix this? And would I have to pull the flywheel to re-ring/replace piston? I have JB weld holding the flywheel on as I bought it not running and the guy I got it from snapped the head off the flywheel bolt, it's been running 3 years with the jb weld lol, I would hate to have to drill it out. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Yes just rebuild it,with a new camshaft, piston ring kit l.its worth it.just set the plastic time gear on the proper mark,set the values on ..10th of an inch with a filler gage
*My br600 and br430 are both leaking oil around the bottom engine pan and niether will run properly. What do you charge for an engine reseal on these blowers or what should I expect to pay for this job? I've heard it consists of removing the engine from the blower to be able to remove the engine pan and re seal it with gasket maker and replace the crankshaft seals. Thanks in advance.*
Hey there! It could be something as simple as the muffler screen is clogged up on the br430. As for the br600 it could need a valve adjustment and or reseal. Most of the backpack blowers are simple fixes could be as simple as a fuel line leaking. I typically charge around $120 labor plus parts depending on the issue. However it isn't uncommon for these units to purge a little oil past the seals how old are these units?
@@chainsawmatt4849 *I really appreciate your reply. I checked the muffler screen and it was clean but I removed it anyways, I also removed the muffler and the exhaust port is clean as well. The carb is also a new stihl oem carb along with the fuel lines and filter. After watching a few youtube vids I went ahead and took a chance and removed the engine myself tonight, cleaned all the old gasket maker off, re applied some dirko sealant and I just got it bolted back together so I'm going to see if it runs tomorrow. Everything looks good now so I'm assuming it will run.*
I'm still trying to figure out how those engines work, So looks like they have a hose connected to the intake after the carb that goes to crankcase? The up stroke pulls fuel/oil into the crank case? and i guess on the down stroke the mixture is just thrown about in crankcase and never leaves to lube crank and rod bearings?
The hose you're refering to is the impulse hose that actually controls the diaphragms inside the carb the mixture of fuel oil and air comes through the intake valve these engines actually hold 2 cycle oil in the crankcase some of the oil from the mix actually ends up in the crank and eventually the gas evaporates and the 2 cycle engine oil is left behind you'll be able to tell when you pull the engine apart there is a good bit of oil in the crank and when you reassemble the engine you should definitely put fresh oil in there.
@@chainsawmatt4849 Still confused, They have a sump in bottom of crankcase to put 2-stroke oil in? Then why the mix gas/oil? wont engine just burn it like normal 4-stroke engine? noticed how black inside of those engines get.
@@jocrp6 as the engine burns the mixed fuel some of the oil is left behind thats what's in the crank thats black looking if you pull one apart brand new it would be bright blue if you ever pull one apart and the piston looks really dark almost burnt thats mainly from using really cheap 2 cycle oil these engine's are designed to run on stihl hp ultra full synthetic 2 cycle the main difference I've seen between running the cheap vs synthetic is the piston and most of the internals will be burnt black with the cheap stuff whereas if you run the good oil it will look brand new even after hundreds of hours there is no need to add oil to these engines unless you tear them all the way down but I usually add a little to the top end when I adjust the valves
@@chainsawmatt4849 I find that amazing that they are able to lubricate the bottom end with oil/fuel mix going thru a intake valve and has no other way into the crankcase except for cylinder walls? wonder if that would work on Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine?
@@jocrp6 like I said these engines hold a good bit of 2 cycle oil in the bottom end it actually may not be a bad idea to change it but its not recommended and would be a pain in the butt i always add a little 2 cycle oil to the crankcase when i adjust the valves i plan on making another video on the BR600 style engines and show more in depth how everything works so keep an eye out
Anyone know what good compression at ~70F on a cold engine on these are at without and after adding a few drops of oil into the top of the cylinder? I get about 60 psi no drops of oil and 107 psi with oil. I've read online supposedly Stihl spec is 7.5-8.5 bar which is 109-123 psi. IDK if that's warm or cold though.
Compression varies on these 4mix engines i personally don't have a Compression tester but my opinion would be 70 psi is probably low but that could just mean that the valves have a little carbon between them and the seats or that the exhaust and or intake valve is too tight which will cause it to open prematurely these engines very rarely lose Compression due to ring wear or for that matter ever score a piston. It could also be that at 70psi is in between strokes and won't have as much Compression then. Thanks for the question and be sure to subscribe if you haven't already!
Hello there, is there any tip on how to remove a fan wheel on this same blower? I have try everything, and I cant seems to remove it, I took it to a repair shop but they couldnt removed it also. I was watch most of youtube videos about repairing this blower but none say how to remove the fan wheel. Thanks in advance!!!
Hey there I've had this issue before I always use the factory piston block the keep the engine from turning over the part number is 4282 890 2700 and it requires a 17mm socket i usually have to use a pipe on my ratchet for extra leverage and its regular thread so lefty loosey hope this was helpful!
@@chainsawmatt4849 Man i know some how it was left thread, someone said it was right. Well Thank you very I will order that and hopefully i can get that remove and fixed, I will keep you update it. Thanks again.
I've found that putting the piston at the bottom of the stroke, then pushing as much rope into the cylinder as possible will keep the engine from turning and allow you to break the nut holding the fan loose. Just remember that nut is connected to the fan so they have to turn together
I’ve found with these engines if you don’t put enough RTV high temp on when you assemble these they will start to leak from the bottom end after around 100 hours thanks for watching!
@@chainsawmatt4849 what I found if I put too much it all ends up in the crank case and combustion chamber, literary after few hours. So now I figured out by trail and error the optimal amount - when torqued only a thin bead is coming out and visible uniformly all around :)
@@chainsawmatt4849 wow, chill bruh, I am not after your pelt or anything, relax :). I like your vids, they are really helpful and I enjoy them as I learn about things I have limited knowledge about - as they say, every day is a school day :)
Great video!! What would cause a push rod to fall down in the intake side? I was simply replacing the purge primer & was going to check the valves. However while turning the flywheel to set at TDC I heard a click- then saw the rod fall down. So flywheel only turns a tiny bit either way before locking up. Would that be the timing gear or those clips that hold them in place at the end of your video ? Or- could that mean a valve stem is broken? Thanks much!!
Hey there it could be a number of things the most common would be that the valves were so loose that it allowed the pushrod to pop out that would be my guess although it could be a damaged timing gear or lifter.
What causes that wrist pin failure? My wrist pin was so wedged in there I cracked the piston trying to push it out, I am surprised yours came out with so little tapping.
Gm. I have one of these and the chrankshaft snapped in half while it was running and damaged the block. What do you think caused it, could it be improper valve timing?
I just bought a used br700 knowing I had to fix it. I took the pull start off and the engine rocks back and forth and it's hard to turn. Any idea or a good starting point? TIA
@@chainsawmatt4849its a 2016 br700. so I took it all apart and noticed it had a lot of built up crud around the oil seals.After taking the motor apart I thought it was going to be the bearings but it turned out to be the wrist pin froze. The bearings move freely, the piston and rings are shot so I ordered a new kit. It doesn't have deep gouges but it has some scratches. My question would honing the cyclinder help?
I don't think the numbers have anything to do with the date but it could. the wrist pin failure is very uncommon we saw a run on these types of failures about 4 year's ago but I only had 2 under warranty. Wrist pin failure can be a mixture of cheap 2 cycle oil and or too much heat when I adjust the valves I usually squirt a little bit of 2 cycle stihl hp ultra on the rocker arms and a little down the engine pan because these 4 mix engines actually hold 2 cycle in the bottom end Stihl has since added 2 ports on the wrist pin hole to help with lubrication
Stihl use to have issues with valves snapping off in the cylinder this was caused by the valve being too tight Someone suggested that you double that gauge when setting the valves .008 I've been setting them there ever since and never had another issue I don't know if you've ever pulled the valve cover on one of these and seen how loose the valves were from going too long without adjustment but these things will run with .100 of play between the rocker and valve stem. Thanks for the question!
Excellent video, very clear and easy to follow. I liked that you didn’t skip steps
Thanks so much!
They take a lickin and keep on tickin! Nice having some decent used parts around to save those blowers. Thanks!
Haha just like my Ironman timex
Thank you for the video. very helpful.
Great video! What is the tool you used to clean the valve seats? The blue brush like tool? Thanks
very nice video showing everything
Thanks
Thank you !
Hello I just lost compression on my br600, I didnt smell or see any white smoke but my flywheel spins pretty easy now, would a rebuild kit fix this? And would I have to pull the flywheel to re-ring/replace piston? I have JB weld holding the flywheel on as I bought it not running and the guy I got it from snapped the head off the flywheel bolt, it's been running 3 years with the jb weld lol, I would hate to have to drill it out. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Yes just rebuild it,with a new camshaft, piston ring kit l.its worth it.just set the plastic time gear on the proper mark,set the values on ..10th of an inch with a filler gage
Great video thank you
*My br600 and br430 are both leaking oil around the bottom engine pan and niether will run properly. What do you charge for an engine reseal on these blowers or what should I expect to pay for this job? I've heard it consists of removing the engine from the blower to be able to remove the engine pan and re seal it with gasket maker and replace the crankshaft seals. Thanks in advance.*
Hey there! It could be something as simple as the muffler screen is clogged up on the br430. As for the br600 it could need a valve adjustment and or reseal. Most of the backpack blowers are simple fixes could be as simple as a fuel line leaking. I typically charge around $120 labor plus parts depending on the issue. However it isn't uncommon for these units to purge a little oil past the seals how old are these units?
@@chainsawmatt4849 *I really appreciate your reply. I checked the muffler screen and it was clean but I removed it anyways, I also removed the muffler and the exhaust port is clean as well. The carb is also a new stihl oem carb along with the fuel lines and filter. After watching a few youtube vids I went ahead and took a chance and removed the engine myself tonight, cleaned all the old gasket maker off, re applied some dirko sealant and I just got it bolted back together so I'm going to see if it runs tomorrow. Everything looks good now so I'm assuming it will run.*
Time to rebuild my old BR. She's slow to start, idles high. Valve adjustment might do it but 10 years of commercial use... Gotta be due
I'm still trying to figure out how those engines work, So looks like they have a hose connected to the intake after the carb that goes to crankcase? The up stroke pulls fuel/oil into the crank case? and i guess on the down stroke the mixture is just thrown about in crankcase and never leaves to lube crank and rod bearings?
The hose you're refering to is the impulse hose that actually controls the diaphragms inside the carb the mixture of fuel oil and air comes through the intake valve these engines actually hold 2 cycle oil in the crankcase some of the oil from the mix actually ends up in the crank and eventually the gas evaporates and the 2 cycle engine oil is left behind you'll be able to tell when you pull the engine apart there is a good bit of oil in the crank and when you reassemble the engine you should definitely put fresh oil in there.
@@chainsawmatt4849 Still confused, They have a sump in bottom of crankcase to put 2-stroke oil in? Then why the mix gas/oil? wont engine just burn it like normal 4-stroke engine? noticed how black inside of those engines get.
@@jocrp6 as the engine burns the mixed fuel some of the oil is left behind thats what's in the crank thats black looking if you pull one apart brand new it would be bright blue if you ever pull one apart and the piston looks really dark almost burnt thats mainly from using really cheap 2 cycle oil these engine's are designed to run on stihl hp ultra full synthetic 2 cycle the main difference I've seen between running the cheap vs synthetic is the piston and most of the internals will be burnt black with the cheap stuff whereas if you run the good oil it will look brand new even after hundreds of hours there is no need to add oil to these engines unless you tear them all the way down but I usually add a little to the top end when I adjust the valves
@@chainsawmatt4849 I find that amazing that they are able to lubricate the bottom end with oil/fuel mix going thru a intake valve and has no other way into the crankcase except for cylinder walls? wonder if that would work on Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine?
@@jocrp6 like I said these engines hold a good bit of 2 cycle oil in the bottom end it actually may not be a bad idea to change it but its not recommended and would be a pain in the butt i always add a little 2 cycle oil to the crankcase when i adjust the valves i plan on making another video on the BR600 style engines and show more in depth how everything works so keep an eye out
Anyone know what good compression at ~70F on a cold engine on these are at without and after adding a few drops of oil into the top of the cylinder? I get about 60 psi no drops of oil and 107 psi with oil. I've read online supposedly Stihl spec is 7.5-8.5 bar which is 109-123 psi. IDK if that's warm or cold though.
Compression varies on these 4mix engines i personally don't have a Compression tester but my opinion would be 70 psi is probably low but that could just mean that the valves have a little carbon between them and the seats or that the exhaust and or intake valve is too tight which will cause it to open prematurely these engines very rarely lose Compression due to ring wear or for that matter ever score a piston. It could also be that at 70psi is in between strokes and won't have as much Compression then. Thanks for the question and be sure to subscribe if you haven't already!
Wallys workin has a video on that.. pan bolts vibrate loose and the bolts and pan will have to be replaced.
So if that plate falls off the timing gear would it still work if you put it back up or should it be replaced?
Hello there, is there any tip on how to remove a fan wheel on this same blower? I have try everything, and I cant seems to remove it, I took it to a repair shop but they couldnt removed it also. I was watch most of youtube videos about repairing this blower but none say how to remove the fan wheel. Thanks in advance!!!
Hey there I've had this issue before I always use the factory piston block the keep the engine from turning over the part number is 4282 890 2700 and it requires a 17mm socket i usually have to use a pipe on my ratchet for extra leverage and its regular thread so lefty loosey hope this was helpful!
@@chainsawmatt4849 Man i know some how it was left thread, someone said it was right. Well Thank you very I will order that and hopefully i can get that remove and fixed, I will keep you update it. Thanks again.
I've found that putting the piston at the bottom of the stroke, then pushing as much rope into the cylinder as possible will keep the engine from turning and allow you to break the nut holding the fan loose. Just remember that nut is connected to the fan so they have to turn together
Question, why don't you put the silicone on the crank seal journals and why are you putting such an enormous amount of it everywhere else?
I’ve found with these engines if you don’t put enough RTV high temp on when you assemble these they will start to leak from the bottom end after around 100 hours thanks for watching!
@@chainsawmatt4849 what I found if I put too much it all ends up in the crank case and combustion chamber, literary after few hours. So now I figured out by trail and error the optimal amount - when torqued only a thin bead is coming out and visible uniformly all around :)
You should definitely post a video showing the perfect amount to put on and how you do it so all of your subscribers can see…
@@chainsawmatt4849 wow, chill bruh, I am not after your pelt or anything, relax :). I like your vids, they are really helpful and I enjoy them as I learn about things I have limited knowledge about - as they say, every day is a school day :)
Great video!! What would cause a push rod to fall down in the intake side?
I was simply replacing the purge primer & was going to check the valves. However while turning the flywheel to set at TDC I heard a click- then saw the rod fall down. So flywheel only turns a tiny bit either way before locking up.
Would that be the timing gear or those clips that hold them in place at the end of your video ? Or- could that mean a valve stem is broken?
Thanks much!!
Hey there it could be a number of things the most common would be that the valves were so loose that it allowed the pushrod to pop out that would be my guess although it could be a damaged timing gear or lifter.
What causes that wrist pin failure? My wrist pin was so wedged in there I cracked the piston trying to push it out, I am surprised yours came out with so little tapping.
Does the piston rings need to be in a position
does anyone know what the ring end gap is on the br600, not sure if my old rings need replaced or not
Gm. I have one of these and the chrankshaft snapped in half while it was running and damaged the block. What do you think caused it, could it be improper valve timing?
Wallys workin has a video on that,pan bolts vibrate loose. Check it out he's very good
I just bought a used br700 knowing I had to fix it. I took the pull start off and the engine rocks back and forth and it's hard to turn. Any idea or a good starting point? TIA
Could be the bolts that mount the engine to the plastic does it have a lot of run time on it?
@@chainsawmatt4849its a 2016 br700. so I took it all apart and noticed it had a lot of built up crud around the oil seals.After taking the motor apart I thought it was going to be the bearings but it turned out to be the wrist pin froze. The bearings move freely, the piston and rings are shot so I ordered a new kit. It doesn't have deep gouges but it has some scratches. My question would honing the cyclinder help?
Glad I watched this video! Learned not to trust anyone else’s work but my own! This was a hack job on so many levels! So sad!
thank you
Do those numbers on the piston correspond to a date by any chance? I am wondering how old the replacement piston I got is.
I don't think the numbers have anything to do with the date but it could. the wrist pin failure is very uncommon we saw a run on these types of failures about 4 year's ago but I only had 2 under warranty. Wrist pin failure can be a mixture of cheap 2 cycle oil and or too much heat when I adjust the valves I usually squirt a little bit of 2 cycle stihl hp ultra on the rocker arms and a little down the engine pan because these 4 mix engines actually hold 2 cycle in the bottom end Stihl has since added 2 ports on the wrist pin hole to help with lubrication
hi i am thinking to do this to my 600 as its leaking from bottom.do you think i should use a parts washer beforehand?
Hey there yes a parts washer is a good idea but i usually I just use brake cleaner and a fine wire wheel brush on a drill.
Question, you are setting the valves to .008" when Stihl is at .004" (0.10mm), is there a reason for this? Thanks
Stihl use to have issues with valves snapping off in the cylinder this was caused by the valve being too tight Someone suggested that you double that gauge when setting the valves .008 I've been setting them there ever since and never had another issue I don't know if you've ever pulled the valve cover on one of these and seen how loose the valves were from going too long without adjustment but these things will run with .100 of play between the rocker and valve stem. Thanks for the question!
@@chainsawmatt4849 That is what I needed to hear, much appreciated!
I wouldn't set them that loose. When your valves start to become loose you will know they are because it will be hard to pull over sometimes.
hi how much is 008 in mm ?
@2:45 your hands can move so fast! you must be single.
Who sprayed the plastic housing green 😅 poor blower, it looks hideous
Can’t see bad angle
it is stihl worn
Can't hear you
Gee thanks!
Are you filming at work without permissions??????
WAY TOO MUCH RTV!! That's a disgusting mess of the engine!!
Tu ne peux pas en mètre de plus de la pâte à joint.