Everything you need to know about BIQU H2O
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- 🆓📈💵
How to water-cool your 3D printer with the BIQU H2O kit and what are the benefits of adding this tech to your printers are. A complete guide for hardware installation and marlin changes for SKR Mini E3 and other boards.
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🛒 BIQU H20 Extruder: shrsl.com/3d7m7
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Table of Contents:
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0:00 - Intro
02:00 - Why would you water-cool your 3D printer
04:48 - Reasons not to get BIQU H2O
06:48 - How to install BIQU H2O
14:00 - Configure BIQU H20 in Marlin
19:49 - Water-cooling 3D printer - conclusions
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#3Dprinter #BIQU #H2O - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
awesome video !! love the content.
Thank you for sharing links to items you're dealing with !!! So many content makers dont do this these days.
Subscribed ! Looking forward to more of your videos.
Welcome! And I hope more videos will be useful to you from my channel
@@notenoughtech will you be doing anything with Klipper or CoreXY printers like the Voron 2.4r2 /Trident or Rat Rig Vcore 3 and the like ??
I don't have any immediate plans yet. But a friend of mine will bring some prints over swearing the superiority of Klipper. May reconsider it when I see it in person
Thank you Mat.
Great video! I went the Dragon WST route and I've used PC watercooling components (280mm radiator, 140mm fans and 2 litre reservoir) for my Ender 5 plus, but I could have benefited from seeing your video a few months ago! Thanks for sharing your work though, I think it will save a lot of headaches for people doing the same mod.
Check out my journey of making the printer completely silent - some good info there too
Thanks for the video. Another reason for me is to print better in a heated enclosure to prevent warping of the part. Enclosure target temp = Tg of the material. So you cannot cool the hotend or the filament intake tube lower than Tg using Enclosure internal air. Around Tg, the filament is softer and easily creep in hotend (or even bowden tube) or reduce traction from gear... (also better to keep motors and electronics cooler than Tg, outside enclosure) So you need to transport cooler temperature from outside the enclosure. Best achieved by water. This is the implementation I'm looking for.
Yes, that's probably very strong case for anyone using enclosures and high temperature materials.
How did you downvolt the cooling pump and fan to 7V? great video btw!
Does anyone know what the temp sensor setup should look like in Klipper?
Great video!
Thank you!
Does the max board and pt100 have the ability to plug into an empty driver slot?
If drivers are being used as uart can you use one driver board as spi when others are uart?
Or did you use spi pins somewhere else on the board?
I used the pins from the board. I used skr board for this
thank you
Any links to buy the reservoir fan pump radiator??
amzn.to/3Qthxl4
Relevant info omitted from review: 1)Biqu H20 cooling block material in contact with fluid.
2) Biqu cooling kit(made by third party, radiator and pump are Syscooling products, one of the few sources for guaranteed aluminum loop components): Radiator metal type in contact with fluid. Whether provided g1/8th(I think) fittings are nickle plated, brass, or aluminum.
I'll bet that's a syscooling aluminum radiator. The pump/res looks to only have delrin/acrylic in contact with fluid, but that's not true for all syscooling pump/res combos(many have an aluminum cap on top)
Aluminum anywhere in a cooling loop is a deal killer, "cooper only" if you want to maximize thermal transfer (don't ever mix both materials). A detail the presenter overlooked and seems to be a bit of a "noob" with respect to liquid cooling. No need for special coolant, distilled water with a silver kill coil is all you need. Avoid dyes as they tend to stain everything in the loop.
I also run watercooling on two of my VzBots. It's great!
Awesome, what other upgrades do you have?
What is your opinion on the "Alphacool Eisbaer (reservoir / pump / radiator) AIO" ? You can simply use the CPU interface side as a makeshift radiator.
This whole solution costs about 50 bucks.
It will be a serious overkill ;) you need the smallest one you can find as there isn't that much heat to extract actually
@@notenoughtech It will be overkill yes but it is also neat, compact and cheap. It is the smallest cheapest and most high quality solution I could find.
Also having some reserves as you said it will be overkill means one could also cool the steppers at some point if the idea of a heated chamber comes up.
Thank you for your assessment.
which hotend?
When you hooked up your water cooler, did you hook it up directly to the PSU or to the 24v connector on the board itself?
I had a 12V supply and I'm running it undervolted - its lighter on fan and pump still works
@@notenoughtech I realized that when I plugged my pump in, it ran well, but then it stopped and it would struggle to work properly when turning it on in the morning. Upon further investigation, BIQU ships them with an output voltage of 18v instead of the 12v. I adjusted it and now I no longer have any issues with it. So for anyone who does purchase this setup, make sure to check the output voltage for the water pump so you don't run into issues like I did. Happy printing! :)
Water cooling does have one huge advantage I think. When running large enclosed printers where there could be a lot of warping if left to the exposed air, the enclosure makes it so that the air cooling systems don't get cool air and thus you get heat creep jams. Using water cooling I believe fixes that problem since the water can flow outside the enclosure to be cooled.
Not to mention having a bigger radiator.
Plus 500C. You could solder with this 😛
OK, I have an octopus v1.1 and for me it is a little bit easyer to installed but ok for 500 degrees print Temperatur, i will do this.
Yeah with the octopus it's much easier to finish the upgrade! Enjoy the water-cooled printer
Hi, great video. What happens if the operator is in the other room and a waters line breaks or leaks?
Then you have the unattended extinguisher in action. If you have done your plumbing right, chances of leaking are the same as for your kitchen sink.
@@notenoughtech If you don't mind, what would the optimal temperature of the water to send back to the extruder? chances are you already did the research.
@@akm5611 Mine doesn't really go over 40C on my titan Aqua even when in heated chamber
Haha i decided to buy this i was hoping someone had a video review just so i knew it wasn’t wall art. Ordering 3 of these.
I love how silent I can make my printer with it. I love this even more than temp ranges it offers. I wont win popularity contests... but..
Hello, good video. I have a question, why did you choose to do software spi instead of hardware spi?
The gpio used have no hardware SPI IC. So software emulates the SPI protocol and handles it. In octopus board you have physical sockets that use SPI to communicate directly with SPI devices like motor controllers. These have addressed baked into the board and you don't have to configure it separately. Usually all that's needed is to say that this SPI device is an amplifier board and that's all
@@notenoughtech but I thought the stm32g0 did have hardware spi embbeded as spi1. Im going to check the datasheets but if you could point me to the docs referring it uses software spi?
It has hardware SPI too. Just being used for other purposes.
@@notenoughtech you're totally right. I tried all day messing with vs code trying to get hardware spi working on marlin. Only in software mode working at least for the skr mini e3 v3. Btw that PD9 pin wasnt documented in btt github, where did you get that info?
@@notenoughtech You mentioned "all that's needed is to say that this SPI device is an amplifier board and that's all" Where/how exactly do we do that? I have been trying to get this working but having confusing issues. I have an SKR3 EZ which has an available stepper slot so I am wondering if I need to use hardware SPI instead when i've been trying to use Software SPI so far.
Hey, which video editing software do you use?
Adobe Premiere Pro
Love your content, but I have a question. I followed your steps and when I boot up my printer, I keep getting this error MAXTEMP: E1 Printer Halted. Any idea what may be causing it?
Never mind, I figured it out. It was a bad solder joint on the positive pole. It is reading my E1 properly now. :)
Sorry just got around to reading these. I'm glad it's working and thank you for sharing the problem and the solution
Hi! Nice video, I am looking to buy the biqu h2 500°c without water cooling. The only issue I am having is the wiring part. Could you maybe do a video with every step of the process? Thanks in advance.
I won't be able to to do a dedicated video, but the wiring is pretty much the same as on H2O unit. The complex bit is the amplifier board but this will strongly depend on the board you have fitted in your machine
To anyone reading do not buy anything you cant figure out how to install yourself. Not even fair to ask anyone to make a video for you.
Pay a professional if you must proceed.
I agree with you. If you have an opportunity ask someone to do this with with you. You'll have a good time and your upgrade will not become an expensive project.
@@glennedward2201 don’t worry, I ended up figuring it out, just used another sensor, so didn’t have to mess too much with the code.
Would it be possible to use this extruder with an NTC100k cartridge thermistor (3mm x 15mm) until I upgrade my mainboard?
If you check the dimensions of the probe. If they are the same it should be ok.
@@notenoughtech I cant find info on the dimensions of the heater block or the PT100. I assume the heater block has a 3 mm hole for the probe. I read somewhere this hotend takes m4 nozzles instead of m6, is it true?
@@markostranos9616 It's 4 mm for thew thermal probe hole and I think it's a standard thread for nozzle
@@notenoughtech Thanks :)
After you do all these updates to it, is it still an Ender 3 printer, or is now a Mat 3? MEnder 3? lol.
I guess this all come down to cost in the end. Cost and how much use you will get from it :).
Still made a great video and a great project.
I like the Mender 3, mostly due to all the mends needed to be done to get there. :D
I got to say, I actually have fun modding this. Probably the same kicks gamers get from making their hardware pretty and car enthusiast making their engines go brrrrrrr
@@notenoughtech It can certainly be addictive. Sometimes I have to tell myself "stop there" and then I usually don't anyway lol.
Same goes for project scopes. The proper name for this is a feature creep
Hi! So I installed everything and modified the firmware according to the video, but when I turn the printer on it immediately says MAX TEMP : E1. Printer halted. All the connections should be alright, the max 31865 light is on. What could be wrong?
Double check the settings on your thermal amplifier board. Next - firmware changes - the settins used apply only to the revision I worked with so newer build could have changes. E1 indicates that your probe is not reading room temp and reporting high. It's likely that it needs some tweaks in error handling (number of them) or resistance - double check the software bit
@@notenoughtech I have the same board as you and changed the pin file according to your instructions but now the message is MIN TEMP: E1. I checked that every component is working and well connected, so it must be firmware, but I don’t really know what to modify.
@@eltallerdelpicapinos8151 watch for the thermal probe specific settings. You need to select correct probe type then calibration value then number of errors. The article has all sample files
Did you ever find a solution to this? I am having the same issues but with an SKR3 EZ.
@@earcher9474 I ended up not using the module or the pt100, I bought a t-d500 sensor, it can be used without any module and it is just a millimeter less in diameter compared to the pt100, so it fits in the heatblock. Its working perfectly now, no trouble reading temperatures between 70 to 300+ degrees
What are some pros to using water cooled extruder?
No temp run out on long prints, quiet operation, higher temps
@@notenoughtech Do you get better print quality?
Yes and no. Hot end alone won't change your quality if your settings are dialed in.
@@notenoughtech Thanks. Lets say settings are dialed in, such as properly mounting the 3D printer CNC perfectly squared and leveled bed, planning to buy this for precision 3D prints and laser marking. So water cooled hot end is not worth for this purpose? What other parameters needs to be considered? It is why I haven't bought a hot end, I am using stock hot end that came with the ender 3, everything else I upgraded, 4.2.7 motherboard with trinamic stepper drivers.
You'll be able to go faster without losing thermal properties of your filament. Quality of the print depends on so many other settings that influence of hotend alone is negligible. It's job is to keep your filament at X temp consistently so any faults related to this will be removed. Same for extruder part. Once dialled in extrusion should be relevant to what's the settings are set to.
I want to watercool the mainboard and the hotend (separate loops) all the noise in my system is fans :(
Mainboard watercooling is sort of obsolete
Please check out my silent 3D printer video, it will show you what are the best upgrades are for that
I need a direct drive. I stop print due, to fitting the filament.
as in filament change? Other than flexible filaments, I don't think there is that much of a difference unless you drive the spool from very far away
I played around with water cooling the ender 3 v2. I had a spare closed loop 360 mm nzxt cooler. With thermal pads i could get decent contact with the stepper drivers.
It didn't make much sense to actually use it since the fans on that radiator are massive and is really meant to cover a few square inches. Ended up using it on the second desktop which benefited more.
You could definitely cool it with a smaller radiator. I guess they picked off the shelf stuff from pc parts to get the kit.
What is your opinion on the "Alphacool Eisbaer (reservoir / pump / radiator) AIO" ? You can simply use the CPU interface side as a makeshift radiator.
This whole solution costs about 50 bucks.
You can use the plumbing end but adding efficient cooling to the heatsink on the hot end isn't as simple as ziptying the CPU water block.
At best you'll have inefficient cooling at worst it will clog up every couple of minutes
@@notenoughtech For the V6 you can print a sleeve and bolt it on the V6 alu heatsink, I have seen people do it. Or you can get a dedicated extruder/water cooled unit and just plug in the hoses. The cooling needed is so little, one guy who sells his printers evenb just left out the whole heatsink and just cooled the throat directly, which works as well. This catridges only have something like 50w-80w.
As long as you are aware of the issues you need to face go for it. I haven't tried that so you'd be charting that territory. It really depends if you like to tinker or just want an easy to maintain printer.
Watercooled printer is cool but it won't make your prints better ;)
Look into the "Alphacool Eisbaer", It is a (reservoir / pump / radiator) all in one, which costs about 55€.
There simply is no better solution on the market, especially for that prince and hassle free.
Not saying your solution is bad, which it is not. Just for someone who wants to build a water cooled printer.
It is cheaper here.